Date   

Re: Volvo D3

Paul Harries
 

Thanks to you all
Did any of you have the D3 leave you stranded? What is appx cost of replacing the D3.

And Porter, I hope you get to the Cook Islands. On my previous round the world trip Aitutaki was the absolute high point, back then it was undeveloped,  I gather it is now a high class island resort. 



Re: Volvo D3

Courtney Gorman
 

Cheers Porter glad to hear life is good 
👍🏻😁
Courtney 
Trippin 
54#101


On Apr 21, 2021, at 5:41 PM, Porter McRoberts via groups.io <portermcroberts@...> wrote:

Paul. 
I’d be happy to speak to you off line if you wish. 

In short we bought a 54. The furlers were a problem and we changed them, and the VD3-110 died. We replaced the engine.   Would I buy the boat again?  Absolutely yes. It’s an amazing machine. Even with the original furlers, knowing what I now know, I might not have needed to change them. Re the engine I agree with Bill R completely. Now we have a D3-110 “H” model. Like Teun. Great engine. But as the D3-“C”motor ages, it proves its genetics: sound or faulty. Ours died a relatively early death. 

The A54 is wonderful. Amazing actually. We’re about 24k NM into our love affair. Heading to Fiji soon for another 2k. We’ve been on all sorts of other boats, cool in their own ways. 55s, 64s Gunboats, leopards, everything. I’ve not been tempted to have another boat. I’d have either a SM or a 54 all over again. ( I do have a slight weakness for a Farr 60 pilot house). Or the new Amel 50, if I was around a lot of orcas. 😄. 

Don’t be turned away. These boats are simply incredibly designed. The culmination of decades of nautical head scratching and millions of miles. Built to be single handed by a blind guy in the worst conditions. Wife and kid approved and loved as well.  Get one!

Best of luck. 

Porter McRoberts 
S/V IBIS A54-152

On Apr 21, 2021, at 4:48 AM, Teun BAAS <teun@...> wrote:



Paul,

 

I replaced the VOLVO D3 110iC in 2018 with the VOLVO D3 110iH

 

Pls contact me directly ( teun@... ) and I will explain.

 

Best Regards Teun

April 21, 2021 07:48:28

 

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Paul Harries via groups.io
Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 2021 07:10
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Volvo D3

 

As a prospective buyer of a 54 I am anxious about all the negative comments online about the Volvo D3. Could you place this in context for me? Is this a bad engine with limited life? Are problems common place? Is it reliable?
Anyone had to replace engine, if so with what and at what cost.
The problem with the internet is that problems tend to be magnified and reliability is under reported.
I just want to place my anxiety in context.
Thx

Paul


Re: Volvo D3

Porter McRoberts
 

Paul. 
I’d be happy to speak to you off line if you wish. 

In short we bought a 54. The furlers were a problem and we changed them, and the VD3-110 died. We replaced the engine.   Would I buy the boat again?  Absolutely yes. It’s an amazing machine. Even with the original furlers, knowing what I now know, I might not have needed to change them. Re the engine I agree with Bill R completely. Now we have a D3-110 “H” model. Like Teun. Great engine. But as the D3-“C”motor ages, it proves its genetics: sound or faulty. Ours died a relatively early death. 

The A54 is wonderful. Amazing actually. We’re about 24k NM into our love affair. Heading to Fiji soon for another 2k. We’ve been on all sorts of other boats, cool in their own ways. 55s, 64s Gunboats, leopards, everything. I’ve not been tempted to have another boat. I’d have either a SM or a 54 all over again. ( I do have a slight weakness for a Farr 60 pilot house). Or the new Amel 50, if I was around a lot of orcas. 😄. 

Don’t be turned away. These boats are simply incredibly designed. The culmination of decades of nautical head scratching and millions of miles. Built to be single handed by a blind guy in the worst conditions. Wife and kid approved and loved as well.  Get one!

Best of luck. 

Porter McRoberts 
S/V IBIS A54-152

On Apr 21, 2021, at 4:48 AM, Teun BAAS <teun@...> wrote:



Paul,

 

I replaced the VOLVO D3 110iC in 2018 with the VOLVO D3 110iH

 

Pls contact me directly ( teun@... ) and I will explain.

 

Best Regards Teun

April 21, 2021 07:48:28

 

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Paul Harries via groups.io
Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 2021 07:10
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Volvo D3

 

As a prospective buyer of a 54 I am anxious about all the negative comments online about the Volvo D3. Could you place this in context for me? Is this a bad engine with limited life? Are problems common place? Is it reliable?
Anyone had to replace engine, if so with what and at what cost.
The problem with the internet is that problems tend to be magnified and reliability is under reported.
I just want to place my anxiety in context.
Thx

Paul


Re: problems Engine #alignment

Rudolf Waldispuehl
 

Hi Bill et all,

I need to re-align the Engine / C-Drive because there are some vibrations due bad alignment or worn Vetus coupling.
In Bill’s AMEL School Book I found a description and picture of the alignment tool. Is it the same tool and measurements on both the SM and A54’s?

Thanks for advice and best regards 
Ruedi Waldispuehl
WASABI A54. #55

Von: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
Antworten an: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Datum: Donnerstag, 25. Juni 2020 um 20:31
An: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Betreff: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] problems installing a new Yanmar engine #replacement

The simple answer is that either the soft coupling rubber donuts were not replaced, or the engine/transmission output - The Vetus Coupling and the C-Drive are not aligned correctly.

If you did not use a fixed coupling to align all of this, it was done wrong. Don't use it until all is aligned correctly.
image.png

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Thu, Jun 25, 2020 at 12:35 PM Mark McGovern <mfmcgovern@...> wrote:
There are several threads on this forum on the topic.  Here is one with a description of the alignment process after changing out engine mounts:  https://amelyachtowners.groups.io/g/main/topic/29770137#42520

Both the original poster Alan Grayson and I used this process AND the alignment tool after changing our engine mounts and it worked well for us.

--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA


Re: Simpson Davits Maintenance

Teun BAAS
 

In 2018 I tried to order 2 new remotes for the electric Davits; after many Emails with no reply I called COONEY UK and they quoted something like GBP300 or GBP350 per unit plus shipping but didn’t want to deal directly with retail. My NEW CALEDONIA marine contact tried to order and didn’t get any response either.

 

I gave up and just use the controls on the Davits.

 

Best Regards Teun

SV AMELIT  A54  #128

 

In Storage on the hard in COOMERA (near BRISBANE) QLD AUSTRALIA

April 21, 2021 08:18:06

 

USA cell: +1 832 477 8842

AUSTRALIA cell: +61 5951 8909

 

You can follow AMELIT via this link: https://forecast.predictwind.com/tracking/display/AMELIT

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Denis Foster via groups.io
Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 2021 07:27
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Simpson Davits Maintenance

 

Hi Scott

 

Same thing Cooney asked for 7000€ for new manual Davits since they pretended it could not be upgraded to Dyneema. 

 

So I asked the local yard to do the Dyneema upgrade two years ago  for around 200€. Unfortunately I wasn’t there to see how they did it.

 

In fact it has worked quite well. 

 

I learned it was better to leave the lines down with the weights in the middle when tender in use in the water. Quicker and easier to lift back up.

 

I am still looking for shop manual that would describe the inside and procedures.

 

Thank s again for your help.

 

Denis 

Envoyé de mon iPhone



Le 21 avr. 2021 à 12:40, Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> a écrit :



Denis,

 

Yes, I changed the wire out to dyneema. Very good upgrade. I think Simpson wanted 4000 GBP for it and it cost me 100 euros to simply change it.

 

Of course at the end of the davit where the line makes a 90 degree turn, there's a sheave. Perhaps yours is well worn or binding?

 

To access the motor/gearbox on mine, you just remove the small allen bolts on the forward (in relation to the boat) portion of the davits. On our electric davits, you remove four quite large screws from underneath the arm and the motor/gearbox bracket comes right out. Sadly, I've had to fix it more times than I care to mention.

 

Scott

 

On Wed, Apr 21, 2021 at 12:28 PM Denis Foster <deniswfoster@...> wrote:

Hi Scott,

Thanks for your reply. Did you change from wire to dyneema? 

I feel but can t see that one of the sheaves inside has friction that our ordinary weight is not sufficient to overcome.

I can t find a diagram view of the mechanism in our Series 7 Simpson Davits

BTW great information from your social media.

Best regards

Denis


--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Re: Volvo D3

 

Paul,

The Volvo D3 is a good engine.

I believe that there were more failures with the D3 than the previous engines installed in Amels, but there is no empirical data on this, just anecdotal. I think most of the failures were due to the fact that the D3 was Volvo Penta's first Common Rail Sensor & Computer-controlled diesel engine. This was not only a challenge for owners but also for Volvo and Volvo technicians. There was a learning curve for everyone. For instance, years ago most of us did not realize that an oil-soaked turbo boost sensor could not only cause rpm and power problems but left uncorrected could eventually cause serious damage to the engine.

As with anything, the more features, devices, and components one adds to a product, the more complicated it becomes, and the risk of failure increases. However, the Volvo D3 owners can be assured that the D3 is a much cleaner burning diesel engine that will help save the planet.

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Wed, Apr 21, 2021 at 9:10 AM Paul Harries via groups.io <Pharries=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
As a prospective buyer of a 54 I am anxious about all the negative comments online about the Volvo D3. Could you place this in context for me? Is this a bad engine with limited life? Are problems common place? Is it reliable?
Anyone had to replace engine, if so with what and at what cost.
The problem with the internet is that problems tend to be magnified and reliability is under reported.
I just want to place my anxiety in context.
Thx
Paul


Re: Volvo D3

Mohammad Shirloo
 

Hi Paul;

 

We have had our 54 for about 6 years. We have not had any issues, other than the normal maintenance related items, with our 110, so far. We had the same concerns at the time of purchase, as you do now. Our research indicated that a handful of the 54s have had issues with their D3-110 with some of these being major, needing engine replacement, as you may have seen in this forum. Our research  was also confirmed by our surveyor Olivier, that has been involved with Amels for over 30 years.

 

This did not sway our decision as we felt that the Amel and especially the 54, represented such a uniquely qualified boat for our purposes, that even the potential for an engine replacement, would not have affected our decision to move forward.

 

Our initial decision has been reinforced throughout our 6 year ownership and have been more and more impressed by the design every year.

 

Respectfully;

 

 

Mohammad and Aty

B&B Kokomo

Amel 54 #099

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Paul Harries via groups.io
Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 2021 7:10 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Volvo D3

 

As a prospective buyer of a 54 I am anxious about all the negative comments online about the Volvo D3. Could you place this in context for me? Is this a bad engine with limited life? Are problems common place? Is it reliable?
Anyone had to replace engine, if so with what and at what cost.
The problem with the internet is that problems tend to be magnified and reliability is under reported.
I just want to place my anxiety in context.
Thx

Paul


Re: Volvo D3

Teun BAAS
 

Paul,

 

I replaced the VOLVO D3 110iC in 2018 with the VOLVO D3 110iH

 

Pls contact me directly ( teun@... ) and I will explain.

 

Best Regards Teun

April 21, 2021 07:48:28

 

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Paul Harries via groups.io
Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 2021 07:10
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Volvo D3

 

As a prospective buyer of a 54 I am anxious about all the negative comments online about the Volvo D3. Could you place this in context for me? Is this a bad engine with limited life? Are problems common place? Is it reliable?
Anyone had to replace engine, if so with what and at what cost.
The problem with the internet is that problems tend to be magnified and reliability is under reported.
I just want to place my anxiety in context.
Thx

Paul


Re: Simpson Davits Maintenance

Scott SV Tengah
 

If the manual ones are anything like the electric ones, it's very simple. In fact, it appears to be made in someone's home workshop. 

Just take the rear cover off and take a peek.

On Wed, Apr 21, 2021 at 4:27 PM Denis Foster <deniswfoster@...> wrote:
Hi Scott

Same thing Cooney asked for 7000€ for new manual Davits since they pretended it could not be upgraded to Dyneema. 

So I asked the local yard to do the Dyneema upgrade two years ago  for around 200€. Unfortunately I wasn’t there to see how they did it.

In fact it has worked quite well. 

I learned it was better to leave the lines down with the weights in the middle when tender in use in the water. Quicker and easier to lift back up.

I am still looking for shop manual that would describe the inside and procedures.

Thank s again for your help.

Denis 

Envoyé de mon iPhone

Le 21 avr. 2021 à 12:40, Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> a écrit :


Denis,

Yes, I changed the wire out to dyneema. Very good upgrade. I think Simpson wanted 4000 GBP for it and it cost me 100 euros to simply change it.

Of course at the end of the davit where the line makes a 90 degree turn, there's a sheave. Perhaps yours is well worn or binding?

To access the motor/gearbox on mine, you just remove the small allen bolts on the forward (in relation to the boat) portion of the davits. On our electric davits, you remove four quite large screws from underneath the arm and the motor/gearbox bracket comes right out. Sadly, I've had to fix it more times than I care to mention.

Scott

On Wed, Apr 21, 2021 at 12:28 PM Denis Foster <deniswfoster@...> wrote:

Hi Scott,

Thanks for your reply. Did you change from wire to dyneema? 

I feel but can t see that one of the sheaves inside has friction that our ordinary weight is not sufficient to overcome.

I can t find a diagram view of the mechanism in our Series 7 Simpson Davits

BTW great information from your social media.

Best regards

Denis


--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Re: Volvo D3

Stefan Schaufert
 

Dear Paul,

our D3 has appr. 1700 hours and is very reliable - so far.

Only the water pump was a little bit tricky (leaky) - from time to time.

Best regards
Stefan
A54 #119 Lady Charlyette, currently Bahamas


Re: Simpson Davits Maintenance

Denis Foster
 

Hi Scott

Same thing Cooney asked for 7000€ for new manual Davits since they pretended it could not be upgraded to Dyneema. 

So I asked the local yard to do the Dyneema upgrade two years ago  for around 200€. Unfortunately I wasn’t there to see how they did it.

In fact it has worked quite well. 

I learned it was better to leave the lines down with the weights in the middle when tender in use in the water. Quicker and easier to lift back up.

I am still looking for shop manual that would describe the inside and procedures.

Thank s again for your help.

Denis 

Envoyé de mon iPhone

Le 21 avr. 2021 à 12:40, Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> a écrit :


Denis,

Yes, I changed the wire out to dyneema. Very good upgrade. I think Simpson wanted 4000 GBP for it and it cost me 100 euros to simply change it.

Of course at the end of the davit where the line makes a 90 degree turn, there's a sheave. Perhaps yours is well worn or binding?

To access the motor/gearbox on mine, you just remove the small allen bolts on the forward (in relation to the boat) portion of the davits. On our electric davits, you remove four quite large screws from underneath the arm and the motor/gearbox bracket comes right out. Sadly, I've had to fix it more times than I care to mention.

Scott

On Wed, Apr 21, 2021 at 12:28 PM Denis Foster <deniswfoster@...> wrote:

Hi Scott,

Thanks for your reply. Did you change from wire to dyneema? 

I feel but can t see that one of the sheaves inside has friction that our ordinary weight is not sufficient to overcome.

I can t find a diagram view of the mechanism in our Series 7 Simpson Davits

BTW great information from your social media.

Best regards

Denis


--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Volvo D3

Paul Harries
 

As a prospective buyer of a 54 I am anxious about all the negative comments online about the Volvo D3. Could you place this in context for me? Is this a bad engine with limited life? Are problems common place? Is it reliable?
Anyone had to replace engine, if so with what and at what cost.
The problem with the internet is that problems tend to be magnified and reliability is under reported.
I just want to place my anxiety in context.
Thx
Paul


Re: Lofrans Tigris Windlass

Ian Park
 

Thanks everyone who offered advice. 

it was a Homer Simpson ‘Doh!’ moment.
After testing everywhere with the multimeter and then a long pause ....
I have always switched on the bow thruster breaker when I switch the windlass breaker, just st n case I might need it. The cockpit controls go live with windlass breaker, but the switches on a he windlass itself are activated through the bow thruster breaker!
you learn something every day. This is original wiring on Santorin 96.

Ian.  Ocean Hobo

 

t


Re: Simpson Davits Maintenance

Scott SV Tengah
 

Denis,

Yes, I changed the wire out to dyneema. Very good upgrade. I think Simpson wanted 4000 GBP for it and it cost me 100 euros to simply change it.

Of course at the end of the davit where the line makes a 90 degree turn, there's a sheave. Perhaps yours is well worn or binding?

To access the motor/gearbox on mine, you just remove the small allen bolts on the forward (in relation to the boat) portion of the davits. On our electric davits, you remove four quite large screws from underneath the arm and the motor/gearbox bracket comes right out. Sadly, I've had to fix it more times than I care to mention.

Scott

On Wed, Apr 21, 2021 at 12:28 PM Denis Foster <deniswfoster@...> wrote:

Hi Scott,

Thanks for your reply. Did you change from wire to dyneema? 

I feel but can t see that one of the sheaves inside has friction that our ordinary weight is not sufficient to overcome.

I can t find a diagram view of the mechanism in our Series 7 Simpson Davits

BTW great information from your social media.

Best regards

Denis


--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Re: Simpson Davits Maintenance

Denis Foster
 

Hi Scott,

Thanks for your reply. Did you change from wire to dyneema? 

I feel but can t see that one of the sheaves inside has friction that our ordinary weight is not sufficient to overcome.

I can t find a diagram view of the mechanism in our Series 7 Simpson Davits

BTW great information from your social media.

Best regards

Denis


Re: Simpson Davits Maintenance

Scott SV Tengah
 

We have the electric Simpson davits, so our experience may not be 100% applicable.

One of our weights is heavier than the other. For the lighter weight, sometimes we experience the same slow lowering. Perhaps you can change the weight? 

For ours, the lighter weight works most of the time, so I've decided to keep it as I've been hit in the head by the heavier weight and it's not pleasant. :)

--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Bilge outlet thru hull fitting

Thomas Kleman
 

I'm doing a haul out in a week here in Tahiti. In addition to the normal bow thruster/prop seal maintenance, I plan on finally installing my brand new 8 year old spare holding tank ball valves purchased from Amel. But while doing my periodic flashlight inspection of the engine room, I noticed that my bilge outlet ball valve is heavily corroded. I can't even read the markings even when doing the gymnastics necessary to get anywhere near it. It looks about the same size as the ball valves for the holding tanks but that's not enough certainty for me. I was hoping someone on this site has recently changed it or knows the size, or can confirm that all three ball valves are identical.

Thomas Kleman 
SM2K 422
Maraa, Tahiti


Re: wind sensor

Dominique Sery
 

I use a Miniplex multiplexer (Shipmodul) to network everything.
The B&G Hydra 2000 instruments, the AIS A100 emTrak, the Furuno GPS (GP90) in nmea 0183,
 the VHF Icom 506 and the Raymarine plotter (es127) in nmea 2000
The computer in USB (Maxsea Time zero)
And the iPad in Wifi
I chose a multiplexer because I had devices of different ages.

Dominique
Irko A54#16


Re: wind sensor

Dominique Sery
 

Hello,
There is no nmea 0183 at the output of the wind sensor.
You must keep the Hydra 2000 to connect the output nmea 0183 (wind information) to the new system.
Dominique


Re: wind sensor

Matt & Michelle Day, SM#208 SV Talia
 

Eloi,

During our recent B&G conversion I wanted to save the wind instrument and depth sounder, until I could do the rigging change and haul out.  Bill was incredibly helpful in providing guidance on the 183 pinout.  I looked into a NMEA0183 to NMEA2K converter, and spoke to two different suppliers.  Feedback from both suppliers was the same, "No guarantees the Hydra2000 output to NMEA0183, would be recognized on NMEA2K."   At that point I changed gears, saved the cost of a converter and went full NMEA2K.  The sensor is dumb and needs the Hydra to output a useable signal. 

I also started down the path of pulling the masts to do the rigging change.  Its a mechanical system, I'm an engineer (new to Amels), can't be that big of a deal!  I spent several weeks talking to riggers, Bill and the past owners about the rigging change.  Then I spent a couple of weeks doing the electronics refit.  After the advice and exploring the guts of this boat, I would have a very difficult time suggesting the rig come down.  Make sure you do your research and don't let anyone convince you that the only way to change the standing rig is to dismast the boat.  My cost went down, when I found a rigger whom understood it can be done in-place.

Matt
SV Talia
SM#208

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