Hello, I am planning a 5 year sebbatical on my
SM. I would like to hear from other Amel owners as to
their spare parts inventory. Aside from the normal pump
rebuilt kits and electric motor rebuilt kits and belts
was there any item that you wish you had on board
that you did not. How extensive of a diesel engine
spare parts inventory do most of you carry. You input
would be appreciated.<br><br>Thank You<br><br>Vito
Ciaravino<br>S/V Wanderer

This was a boat that I looked at a couple of
years ago. She was in rough shape when I saw her. It
was a good buy but she needed a lot of work.
Apparently she was hit by a fishing boat in the grand banks
while her owner was single handing her. That is what I
heard.<br><br>Vito

Does anyone have any knowledge what happened, and
the extent of the damage, to this '89 SM that's being
sold as insurance salvage? Website mentions only a
little:<br><a href=http://www.certifiedsales.com/details.html?Display=53Amel89 target=new>http://www.certifiedsales.com/details.html?Display=53Amel89<;/a><br><br>Thanks<br>Richard

I am seeking replacement light bulbs for the
brass cabin light in the main saloon of my Sharki. The
lamp is made by Poinsard. The bulb is a 12v 25w
bayonet type with two contact points. The base is
approximately .875" (22mm) and the bulb is approximately 1.25"
(32mm)diameter. It is about 2 5/8" high overall. Writing on the
bulb is: SPLENDOR 12V 25W AUSTRIA J4. I haven't been
able to locate such a bulb locally and would
appreciate any help. Thanks!

I have a non-Amel boat, but saw on an Amel a
single lever shower control fed from two pipes about 5"
apart with an external (inside-the-shower, not
in-the-bulkhead) bib for a shower spray hoze. Evidently, later
models do not have this arrangement. Does anyone know of
the manufacturer of the single lever control that I'm
looking for? Model No. would be wonderful! I'd like to
convert mine from two-knob to a single lever control.
Replies to KF6CZD@WINLINK.ORG

Hallo Vito<br>I saw a Amel 2000 in which this pannel with the Amel logo was mountet by hinges. Me pleased this solution and perhaps is it also a solution for you.<br>Regards Hanspeter

Hello I hope everyone had a great new year. I
would like to get some fedback as to the type of SSB
radios that are out there. I have A SM 2000 I would like
to install an SSB. I have looked at the Icom.It
seems to be the most popular. The place where I see the
installation most often is under the radar. On my boat the
pannel that would be removed is the one that has the
Amel logo. I like that piece of wood and I dont want
to remove it. Has anyone found a good another way of
mounting the radio.<br><br>Thanks<br><br>Vito
Ciaravino<br>SM#283 Wanderer

Koen & Roy: Thank you for the advice re my watermaker problems. I am following up with Amel and Dessalator and will let you know how I do.<br>Michael Glass<br>Second Call

Hello David,<br>Not sure I fully understand your
request, but after spending 5 years in Europe on my SM, I
have learned that there is no equivalent to West
Marine in Europe. It's a very fragmented industry over
there.<br>The best shipchandler in France is Accastillage
Diffusion. They carry most of the stuff on Amel boats, from
batteries to anchor chain, and especially fittings and
hardware by Wichard and other European suppliers (but so
does West!)<br>AD has a web site:
www.accastillage-diffusion.com/acceuil.html I think it's only in French. They have a dealer
in ST. Martin, called Profil Ocean, tel # 05 90 29
00 66 (that's a French phone number, not sure of St.
Martin's prefix). Hope this helps.<br>Roy
Benveniste<br>Super Maramu #195 "Excalibur"

Same experience. My end fittings cracked after 2
years of use. Dessalator repalced them free of charge
with the new design. But before I changed them, I
learned how to disassemble and reassemble the entire
membrane assembly in under 5 minutes! (while looking for
the source of the leak)<br>Call Mr. Selo at Amel, he
should be able to get you the new parts. They're very
easy to replace. Or call Dessalator in Antibes, they
speak English.<br>To disassemble the membranes, first
remove the high-pressure water intake and outlet hoses
from the inboard end of the membranes. Then remove the
nuts at the end of the long threaded rods that keep
the aluminum plates together. Remove the six rods,
then remove the outboard aluminum plate, which is
bolted to the supporting wall. Undo the PVC couplings to
the low-pressure hoses. The membrane assembly should
then come loose. <br>To remove the white plastic
end-caps from the membrane tubes, just twist them off
while holding the tubes. The new end-caps just press
on.<br>Let me know if I can provide additional
information.<br>Roy Benveniste<br>Super Maramu #195 "Excalibur"

Hello Micheal,<br><br>This is a common problem
with older systems, the plastic end-pieces do crack.
Amel had a lot of complaints about that and the
changed the design, but I had also a crack in a new end
piece..<br>Sorry to say, it is poor engineering.<br>So please
complain to Amel and maybe they will change to metal
end-pieces. <br>A local machine shop helped me out once by
milling new plastic end caps. The new end caps from Amel
also fit the older designs and are better. Don't
worry, there is nothing wrong with Ur membranes.<br>The
main problem with these crack is that Ur whole engine
room is sprayed with salt water.<br><br>Koen<br>Flash
IV

I own a Super Maramu 2000 presently located in
the BVI. Recently, I experienced a Dessalinator
watermaker problem and I am wondering if anyone else has had
the same experience. Please forgive my hopelessly
arcane description which follows. Leaks have developed
in 2 fittings which attach to one of the long
osmotic membranes/tubes. The water leaks only when the
pump is under high pressure (meaning only when you use
it).<br>One leak is in the coupling which connects the the
hose running from the high pressure pump to the first
osmotic membrane. I presume I can just find somewhere to
get a new coupling made up and replace the defective
coupling. The more difficult problem is the second leak.
The source of the leak appears to be a crack in a
plastic female threaded hole located at the end of the
aluminum plate that caps the 2 osmotic membrane tubes. A
PVC male "union" piece screws into the cracked female
threaded hole and then a PVC nut with PVC pipe screws into
that. The nut holds in place the short length of PVC
pipe which appears to communicate with the second
membrane tube. Essentially, therefore, the crack is in the
piece into which the communicating pipe is screwed.
Because the piece is located at the terminal end of the
membrane I am not sure if the plastic piece is actually
part of the membrane tube or can be replaced as part
of the aluminum end plate. I am hoping I won't have
to buy a whole new membrane just to fix a small
crack in the plastic piece. I sure wish I spoke French!
I could probably resolve the issue with a telephone
call to Dessalinator. Does anyone know of a
Dessalinator dealer in the USA or in the Virgin Islands?
Thanks for any help that can be offered.<br> Michael
Glass<br> Second Call<br> Melville, New York

John,<br>I may never get it straight. Peter Briggs NEIGHBOR had a FREIND who was getting an Amel. Sorry.<br>Jim

Roy,<br>Just to add to Johns answer, the
Gyro-plus is an Autohelm (Raytheon) autopilot accessary
which uses a gyroscope to sense changes in boat
headding. This is much more sensative than a magnetic
compass, especially in the more northern latitudes and on
northerly headings. Here, due to compass dip, caused by the
earths magnetic lines curving down toward the pole, the
magnetic compass may initially indicate a turn in the
opposite direction, and badly "confuse" the auto pilot.
The advantage of the gyroscope in equatorial areas
and on southerly headings may be much less
apparent.<br><br>And John,<br>I think I've got it straight now. I
think what Peter Briggs told me was that his neighbor
was getting an Amel in Sept. and that He thought the
neighbor was going to crew for him. You could reply to
jjwiggin@attglobal.net if you cared to.<br><br>Jim Wiggin

ROY,<br>FIRST OF ALL I AM ENVIOUS OF YOUR TIME IN
THE MED, BUT MY DAY IS COMING! THE GYRO FEATURE AS
JEAN-JACQUES FROM AMEL DESCRIBED IT WORKS THROUGH
SOPHISTICATED MICROPROCESSORS AND MUCH MORE EFFICIENT ELECTRIC
MOTORS AT THE QUADRANT RESULTING IN SMOOTH ALMOST
EFFORTLESS TRACKING DOWN WIND. AS I STATED IN A PRIOR
MESSAGE MY LOCAL BOAT'S AUTOHELM 6000 WHILE ALSO ON THE
QUADRANT IS NO WHERE AS EFFICIENT, NOR CAPABLE OF HOLDING
A DOWNWIND COURSE THAN THIS NEW VERSION. IT DOESN'T
EVEN SOUND LIKE THE NEW ONE! IT GRUNTS, SCREAMS ALMOST
UNDER LOAD, EVEN AFTER I HAVE TRIMMED ALL SAILS. ON THE
SM I DO HAVE A BACK UP PILOT ON THE WHEEL,
CHAIN/GEAR DRIVEN, BUT HAVE YET TO USE IT. I SUGGEST YOU
TALK WITH AN AUTOHELM DEALER ABOUT
CONVERETING.<br>ENJOY YOUR SAILING!<br>JOHN FOLINO

Hi John & Jim,<br>Could you educate me on the
"gyro" feature of the Autopilot? My SM is 4.5 years old,
with the Autohelm 7000 (wheel chain drive only), and I
don't recall any such feature.<br>Since we're heading
out into the Atlantic this coming summer, after 5
seasons in the Med, I might actually start sailing
instead of motoring!<br>Thanks, Roy

JIM,<br>YES I DID AND SINCE MY 40' YAWL IN
BUZZARDS BAY HAS AN AUTOHELM 6000 WITHOUT THE "GYRO" AND A
FULL KEEL, AND WANDERS AIMLESSLY OFF THE WIND! I CAN
ONLY SAY THAT THE SM WITH AUTOPILOT STEERS
EFFORTLESSLY DOWNWIND IN GOOD SIZED SWELLS (10' TO 15') WITH
20 APPARENT KTS ON A BROAD REACH. IN FACT THE AMP
METER BARELY MOVES SUGGESTING RELATIVELY LOW
EFFORT.<br>HAPPY NEW YEAR,<br>JOHN FOLINO

helo
ivar,
Are you able to email me more details of your SM for Sale?

Regards
Peter Hall
phall@irishmed.ie

John,<br><br>Regarding downwind tracking, did you add the Gyro-plus option to the auto pilot?<br><br>Jim Wiggin

John,<br>I am following your entries with
interest as we will get our SM Sept. 16. We had a Pearson
356 which did not pound at all and the sections
through the bows sounds like a good
explanation.<br><br>"Buzzards Bay", hmmmm. I had heard from Peter Briggs that
someone in Mattapoisett was getting a SM. Could that be
you?<br><br>Jim Wiggin