Date   

Re: Play in Brunson H6 prop blade

 

Mohammed,

Great! And great advice!

Best,

CW Bill Rouse 
Amel Owners Yacht School
+1 832-380-4970 | brouse@...
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com 
Yacht School Calendar: www.preparetocastoff.blogspot.com/p/calendar.html


   


On Tue, Jun 8, 2021, 5:48 AM Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...> wrote:

I dove with assistance from a diver and had the prop removed in less than one hour. After removing the loose blade, found out that the tightening nut on the blade would rotate by hand and the left hand locking nut was not tightened against the blade nut and therefore allowed almost two full turns prior to locking. Water has gotten in between the hub and the blade and the bearing guide has almost rusted through.  I believe we have been sailing for two seasons with the prop in this condition and it was with pure luck that we found the condition before losing a blade and possibly doing a lot more damage in the process.

 

One more item to add to the annual check list. Dive and inspect all underwater items, as well as everything above deck. Time to rebuild again ourselves and hopefully do a better job than the “expert mechanics”. This issue keeps on being reinforced, do it yourself and at least you will either learn or make a mistake and know that you made a mistake. You will most likely not make the same mistake twice.

 

Thanks for all the responses.

 

Respectfully;

 

 

Mohammad and Aty

B&B Kokomo

Amel 54 #099

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Slavko Despotovic via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, June 8, 2021 12:16 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Play in Brunson H6 prop blade

 

Just in case you have not see it. This is video from SVDelos I found this morning.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zFEtGRuJiD0--

Slavko

SM 2000
#279 Bonne Anse in Portoroz


Re: Mast pads

Roque
 

Hi Paul

Amel confirmed the material used is PU (polyurethane). They added that the hardness is 90 shore. It is 5 mm thick

As many A54 owners know, the original material does not last long. I replaced mine 
 2 years ago with Tufnol (phenolic laminated).

Hope it helps

Roque

Attika A54 #117
Paraty Brazil

Em ter., 8 de jun. de 2021 às 08:07, Paul Osterberg <osterberg.paul.l@...> escreveu:

Ann-Sofie
Thanks good to know, 
Paul


--
Roque
Attika A54 117
Paraty - Brazil 


Re: Mast pads

Roque
 

Hi Paul

Amel confirmed the material used is PU (polyurethane). They added that the hardness is 90 shore. It is 5 mm thick

As many A54 owners know, the original material does not last long. I replaced mine 
 2 years ago with Tufnol (phenolic laminated).

Hope it helps

Roque

Attika A54 #117
Paraty Brazil 

--
Roque
Attika A54 117
Paraty - Brazil 


Re: Mast pads

Paul Osterberg
 

Ann-Sofie
Thanks good to know, 
Paul


Re: Mast pads

Ann-Sofie, S/Y Lady Annila
 

Hi Paul
We took our mast down last winter, the protection layer under the masts are not made of rubber, it is some kind of super hard nylon. Unless yours are damaged there is no need to change it. If you still want to change, buy it from Amel because if you get the wrong material the risque of getting problems are high.

regards
Ann-Sofie & Jonas
S/Y Lady Annila, SM232, 1998
Present somewhere aling the Algarve coast, Portugal


Skickat från min iPhone

08/06/2021 kl. 10:59 skrev Paul Osterberg <osterberg.paul.l@...>:

Anyone know the hardness of the rubber under the masts? we will step down the masts when replacing the standing rigg, a good opportunity to replace the rubber, I can buy it from Amel, but they ask 310 € plus freight, which I think is to push it a bit far, I usually buy my spare parts direct from Amel to support the sparpart availability but for this time I would like to find an alternative.
Paul on SY Kerpa SM#259


Re: Play in Brunson H6 prop blade

Mohammad Shirloo
 

I dove with assistance from a diver and had the prop removed in less than one hour. After removing the loose blade, found out that the tightening nut on the blade would rotate by hand and the left hand locking nut was not tightened against the blade nut and therefore allowed almost two full turns prior to locking. Water has gotten in between the hub and the blade and the bearing guide has almost rusted through.  I believe we have been sailing for two seasons with the prop in this condition and it was with pure luck that we found the condition before losing a blade and possibly doing a lot more damage in the process.

 

One more item to add to the annual check list. Dive and inspect all underwater items, as well as everything above deck. Time to rebuild again ourselves and hopefully do a better job than the “expert mechanics”. This issue keeps on being reinforced, do it yourself and at least you will either learn or make a mistake and know that you made a mistake. You will most likely not make the same mistake twice.

 

Thanks for all the responses.

 

Respectfully;

 

 

Mohammad and Aty

B&B Kokomo

Amel 54 #099

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Slavko Despotovic via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, June 8, 2021 12:16 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Play in Brunson H6 prop blade

 

Just in case you have not see it. This is video from SVDelos I found this morning.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zFEtGRuJiD0--

Slavko

SM 2000
#279 Bonne Anse in Portoroz


Mast pads

Paul Osterberg
 

Anyone know the hardness of the rubber under the masts? we will step down the masts when replacing the standing rigg, a good opportunity to replace the rubber, I can buy it from Amel, but they ask 310 € plus freight, which I think is to push it a bit far, I usually buy my spare parts direct from Amel to support the sparpart availability but for this time I would like to find an alternative.
Paul on SY Kerpa SM#259


Re: Play in Brunson H6 prop blade

Slavko Despotovic
 

Just in case you have not see it. This is video from SVDelos I found this morning.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zFEtGRuJiD0--

Slavko

SM 2000
#279 Bonne Anse in Portoroz


Re: For those that missed the first procurement of Rub Rails

Ken Powers SV Aquarius <ken@...>
 

I really want to buy these Rub Rails.  Hopefully we can round up 5 or more owners to complete the order for 10 rub rail sets.

Best to the Group,

Ken Powers
Aquarius
SM2K#262


Re: 32mm 1 1/4" Bronze Ball Valves - USA

karkauai
 

Good to know, Mark and Bill.

I just replaced the thru hull ball valve for the forward head.  It was a bear to remove, mostly because of poor access and it had an Octagonal place to put a wrench on it.  The flats were so small that I couldn't get a Crescent wrench to hold.  I ordered a 1 1/4 " 8-point socket, but it was too big. I then ordered a 1 1/8" 8-point socket from McMaster Carr. It came in 24 hours, and voila!  With a 10" extension and a bit of sweat, it came right off.  The new ones I ordered have a hex configuration, so normal 6-point socket works.

Kent
SM 243
Kristy

--
Kent & Iris
KRISTY
SM243


Re: BT SEALS Aquarius

karkauai
 

Has anyone started a new list of owners wanting these seals?
Has anyone asked the manufacturer if we can contact them individually, rather than doing a single large order?

Thanks,
Kent & Iris
SM243
Kristy

--
Kent & Iris
KRISTY
SM243


Re: Members removed because their email no longer is working

michael winand
 

Yahoo  had a auto spam issue that blocked the sender. 
Michael Nebo sm251 


On Tue, 8 Jun 2021 at 12:37 am, CW Bill Rouse
<brouse@...> wrote:
I had to remove about 50 members this morning because their email was bouncing or not working.

If you received this email, obviously you are NOT removed.

FYI, they were all Yahoo email addresses except one.
--
 
Best,
 
CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970


Re: BT SEAL INSTRUCTIONS

Jose Venegas
 

Ken,

I want to make sure it is clear that this IS NOT my project. More importantly, I have no ego about this and was happy to share my finding with the Amel community.

When I found that the silicone seals worked for me more that a year, after I had struggled with water intake for several years in spite of changing the standard seals several times and, because I was planning to start my cruising life, I decided to order a couple more for me and I posted it in our website to see if any body was interested to I order a few in that batch. After I had a few more people than expected (not as many as you had), I realized as you did that this project was going to take a lot more effort and time in my part that I had thought. However, I still ordered the first batch but I promised to myself that the next batch would be ordered by someone else.
At that time, several people asked me how to install them and I did my best to remember how I had done more than a year before. I am a retired engineer and I took a lot of the steps for granted. I was only after several owners asked my about details of how to instal them that I realized that it was not as simple as it had appeared to me. I also realized that I had missed the point of using the wood device provided by Amel which was key to prevent damaging the seals during installation. I also realized that the order in which the seals were mounted did not seem to matter much since both allow the two seals to work.

Now, in my pre-cruising times I was a scientist and thus I am not willing to make statements which are not proven by experimentation. I know the order I used more than 4 years ago would work fine but it was still possible that the alternative order would work equally well. In fact after receiving the second batch I realized that there were variations in the actual dimensions of the different seals, not something that would affect the sealing action of them, but they could affect the gluing of the two seals together because a small gap could be created between the lip seal and the wiper surfaces that needed to be glued together. Because such difference in dimensions was small, I figured that adding some weight (HOW MUCH, I don’t know, it depends of how much was needed), to close the gap between the two surfaces.

You see Ken, life is not always black and white.

The alternative order does not have that issue but, as I mentioned in a previous post it does not create as much lateral stiffness on the trunk. SO, IT MAY be that the alternative order may work better or worse. ONLY TIME WILL TELL US.

To finish, please don’t think that this is MY project. It is something that I found worked for me and I was happy to share with the Amel community, as I know you do every time you find something that works for you.
I hope we will have the chance to enjoy sundowners some where around the world.

Jose.


Re: Removing mold/mildew from helm seat

 

I recommend Microban, but do not know if you can get it there. As you know the Houston Galveston area has had its share of floods. Everyone I know used Microban on everything that got wet, including the 2x4 studs in houses...nobody had mold. Several of my clients have used Microban on all sorts of modl problems with success.
image.png

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Mon, Jun 7, 2021 at 2:15 PM Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> wrote:
Hi all,

We just returned to Tengah after our longest period away: 4 months.

We had some mold on the helm seat and was wondering if anyone has ideas on how to remove it. I have seen recs to use diluted vinegar or even straight rubbing alcohol or diluted bleach. Any thoughts or experiences? See photo attached.

Overall, the boat is in great shape. We flushed the entire seawater circuit with fresh water. The Volvo engine started right up and my strategy to have the 220V electric dehumidifier run between 70-100% SOC (controlled by Victron BMV-712 and Quattro assistants) worked perfectly and kept the lithium batteries from sitting at the damaging 100% SOC level and also kept the boat completely dry inside despite being at the wettest location in Tahiti. I can expand on this if others have a Victron based system and want to implement something similar when they leave the boat.


--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Re: Removing mold/mildew from helm seat

Mohammad Shirloo
 

Hi Scott;

 

Anything with bleach will be effective on mildew/mold. I would star with regular house bleach diluted at a ratio of 10 to 1 and work your way until it is effective. I would try it in an inconspicuous place on the seat first, to be sure it does not negatively affect the fabric.

 

Respectfully;

 

 

Mohammad and Aty

B&B Kokomo

Amel 54 #099

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Scott SV Tengah via groups.io
Sent: Monday, June 7, 2021 12:15 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Removing mold/mildew from helm seat

 

Hi all,

We just returned to Tengah after our longest period away: 4 months.

We had some mold on the helm seat and was wondering if anyone has ideas on how to remove it. I have seen recs to use diluted vinegar or even straight rubbing alcohol or diluted bleach. Any thoughts or experiences? See photo attached.

Overall, the boat is in great shape. We flushed the entire seawater circuit with fresh water. The Volvo engine started right up and my strategy to have the 220V electric dehumidifier run between 70-100% SOC (controlled by Victron BMV-712 and Quattro assistants) worked perfectly and kept the lithium batteries from sitting at the damaging 100% SOC level and also kept the boat completely dry inside despite being at the wettest location in Tahiti. I can expand on this if others have a Victron based system and want to implement something similar when they leave the boat.


--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Re: SM winch motor brushes

Mike Ondra
 

Thanks Danny. Did you replace the seals with the gearbox in place above the pilot birth or did you remove it so you could do the work in the more humane position? If removed what did you get into in separating the below deck assembly from the above deck assembly?
Mike
Aletes SM240
Chesapeake

On Jun 7, 2021, at 3:46 PM, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...> wrote:



Hi Mike. warning warning warning. The small amount of oil will multiply if you don't deal with the cause. When it multiplies the resulting shorting will do very nasty things to your motor. I had to replace mine. The gearbox is oil filled. You need to separate the motor from the gearbox and replace the lip seal. I did the job on both winches. Not difficult. I took the side plate off the gearbox that the seal is located in and pressed it out. Easier than trying to hook it out. An aside. I was astounded when I needed the new motor. Lewmar in Auckland New Zealand had the identical unit on the shelf.

Kind Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

On 08 June 2021 at 07:16 "Mike Ondra via groups.io" <mdondra@...> wrote:

I couldn’t help myself.  Pulled the motor apart. Indeed there are four brushes. Here’s some pics for anyone who’s interested. Small amount of oil in the bottom of the motor housing that dripped out when the bottom bolt was extracted. Didn’t seem to be enough to impede anything electrical.
<image0.jpeg>
<image1.jpeg>
<image2.jpeg>

 

On Jun 7, 2021, at 2:58 PM, Mike Ondra via groups.io <mdondra@...> wrote:

<image0.jpeg>
<image1.jpeg>
<image2.jpeg>


It would appear that removing to service the motor/gearbox assembly for the winch may be challenging. I am reticent to disturb the bedding and other sealant damages that could occur with removal when I’m not certain that there is a problem in the first place.. If it ain’t broke don’t fix it. It just doesn’t sound quite right.
There are some drops of oil on the bottom of the gearbox which are some concern. But no evidence of drips below the gearbox on the headliner. Does anyone know if there are brushes in this motor? 
<image3.jpeg>

 

On Jun 2, 2021, at 3:23 PM, Mike Ondra via groups.io <mdondra@...> wrote:

Our starboard foresail winch has started to complain. After servicing the above deck hardware it sounded better but still a bit more growly than normal. Suspecting the motor brushes. Not having had experience servicing this motor, I am anticipating, as with other first time servicing projects, that it may not go smoothly. If indeed brush replacement is likely, I would like to have the brushes in hand while things are apart. We do have spare brushes for the furling motors. It would be nice if the winch motors utilized the same brushes. Can anyone confirm the specifics of the winch motor brushes?

Thanks,

Mike Ondra

Aletes SM240

Rock Hall, MD


 


 


Re: SM winch motor brushes

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Mike. warning warning warning. The small amount of oil will multiply if you don't deal with the cause. When it multiplies the resulting shorting will do very nasty things to your motor. I had to replace mine. The gearbox is oil filled. You need to separate the motor from the gearbox and replace the lip seal. I did the job on both winches. Not difficult. I took the side plate off the gearbox that the seal is located in and pressed it out. Easier than trying to hook it out. An aside. I was astounded when I needed the new motor. Lewmar in Auckland New Zealand had the identical unit on the shelf.

Kind Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

On 08 June 2021 at 07:16 "Mike Ondra via groups.io" <mdondra@...> wrote:

I couldn’t help myself.  Pulled the motor apart. Indeed there are four brushes. Here’s some pics for anyone who’s interested. Small amount of oil in the bottom of the motor housing that dripped out when the bottom bolt was extracted. Didn’t seem to be enough to impede anything electrical.

 

On Jun 7, 2021, at 2:58 PM, Mike Ondra via groups.io <mdondra@...> wrote:

<image0.jpeg>
<image1.jpeg>
<image2.jpeg>


It would appear that removing to service the motor/gearbox assembly for the winch may be challenging. I am reticent to disturb the bedding and other sealant damages that could occur with removal when I’m not certain that there is a problem in the first place.. If it ain’t broke don’t fix it. It just doesn’t sound quite right.
There are some drops of oil on the bottom of the gearbox which are some concern. But no evidence of drips below the gearbox on the headliner. Does anyone know if there are brushes in this motor? 
<image3.jpeg>

 

On Jun 2, 2021, at 3:23 PM, Mike Ondra via groups.io <mdondra@...> wrote:

Our starboard foresail winch has started to complain. After servicing the above deck hardware it sounded better but still a bit more growly than normal. Suspecting the motor brushes. Not having had experience servicing this motor, I am anticipating, as with other first time servicing projects, that it may not go smoothly. If indeed brush replacement is likely, I would like to have the brushes in hand while things are apart. We do have spare brushes for the furling motors. It would be nice if the winch motors utilized the same brushes. Can anyone confirm the specifics of the winch motor brushes?

Thanks,

Mike Ondra

Aletes SM240

Rock Hall, MD


 


 


Re: SM winch motor brushes

Mike Ondra
 

I couldn’t help myself.  Pulled the motor apart. Indeed there are four brushes. Here’s some pics for anyone who’s interested. Small amount of oil in the bottom of the motor housing that dripped out when the bottom bolt was extracted. Didn’t seem to be enough to impede anything electrical.


On Jun 7, 2021, at 2:58 PM, Mike Ondra via groups.io <mdondra@...> wrote:


<image0.jpeg>
<image1.jpeg>
<image2.jpeg>


It would appear that removing to service the motor/gearbox assembly for the winch may be challenging. I am reticent to disturb the bedding and other sealant damages that could occur with removal when I’m not certain that there is a problem in the first place.. If it ain’t broke don’t fix it. It just doesn’t sound quite right.
There are some drops of oil on the bottom of the gearbox which are some concern. But no evidence of drips below the gearbox on the headliner. Does anyone know if there are brushes in this motor? 
<image3.jpeg>


On Jun 2, 2021, at 3:23 PM, Mike Ondra via groups.io <mdondra@...> wrote:



Our starboard foresail winch has started to complain. After servicing the above deck hardware it sounded better but still a bit more growly than normal. Suspecting the motor brushes. Not having had experience servicing this motor, I am anticipating, as with other first time servicing projects, that it may not go smoothly. If indeed brush replacement is likely, I would like to have the brushes in hand while things are apart. We do have spare brushes for the furling motors. It would be nice if the winch motors utilized the same brushes. Can anyone confirm the specifics of the winch motor brushes?

Thanks,

Mike Ondra

Aletes SM240

Rock Hall, MD


Re: Cook top dimensions

Barry Connor
 

Hi Peter,

From the Quattro 8000 we supply directly to the 220v circuit board and have a completely separate cable/lead to the “Horizon 3” Oven with 3 Induction Hot Plates. Both cables/leads have separate fuses, we do have the oven and hot plates on at the same time. The only change to the 220v circuit board is that no power comes to this circuit board from the AMEL fitted transfer switch “Shore Power or Onan Generator”. This goes straight to the Quattro 8000 for battery charging. We are using the 100Amp charger breaker/switch “top left on the circuit board” for  the electric BBQ. We have not yet maxed out the Quattro 8000. All 220v appliances are now running from the 600 amps of  lithium  batteries through the Quattro 8000.
Generator runs every day as our Solar is max at 900w, this is being upgraded and increased to over 2000w with new stern arch solar panels and new rigid Bimini with solid solar panels (no more flexible solar panels).
As we are running the generator more we have diverted the hot water heating hoses from the Volvo engine to the generator. Hotter water than any element can do, we never use the water heater element now. Just 30 minutes each day on the generator gives boiling  water that lasts 1 day.
Hope this helps.
Very Best 

Barry and Penny
“SV Lady Penelope II”
AMEL 54. #17
Sainte Anne anchorage Martinique 


On Jun 7, 2021, at 11:20, Peter Tiner <peter.tiner@...> wrote:

Hi

May i put some questions to you who have already installed an inductive cooker?
Re electric installation, did you get a connected load of 4.5KW or are you planning to not use full power ie several plates/oven at the same time? And one more question: did you take power from the 240VAC panel or from somewhere else?

Best regards

\Peter Tinér @ sy Maiken A54 #52


Removing mold/mildew from helm seat

Scott SV Tengah
 

Hi all,

We just returned to Tengah after our longest period away: 4 months.

We had some mold on the helm seat and was wondering if anyone has ideas on how to remove it. I have seen recs to use diluted vinegar or even straight rubbing alcohol or diluted bleach. Any thoughts or experiences? See photo attached.

Overall, the boat is in great shape. We flushed the entire seawater circuit with fresh water. The Volvo engine started right up and my strategy to have the 220V electric dehumidifier run between 70-100% SOC (controlled by Victron BMV-712 and Quattro assistants) worked perfectly and kept the lithium batteries from sitting at the damaging 100% SOC level and also kept the boat completely dry inside despite being at the wettest location in Tahiti. I can expand on this if others have a Victron based system and want to implement something similar when they leave the boat.


--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com

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