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Re: Mast pads
Roque
Thanks Paul
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Re: Solar installation and Link10 Battery Monitor
ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
Bill, Mark, Daniela and Michael,
My solar loves your solution and is now kissing cousins with the Link10.
Happy days. Just two 180 W panels have reduced our genset time significantly. The Greens would approve.
Thanks again,
Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302 Porto Rafti, Greece
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
Sent: 04 June 2021 21:42 To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io> Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Solar installatio and Link10
Ian,
Mark's advice is correct. I am going to go a bit further.
I had a marine electrician wire my MPPT and panels to the battery bank. He connected the negative terminal to a convenient bolt on the shunt in the photo below. This is the wrong place because it distorted the readings showing too much energy going into the
battery bank. See the next photo below.
I suggest that you connect the cables to the battery switches and connect them on the Battery side of the positive switch and the negative switch. I also suggest that you consider using a positive and negative bus bar to take some of the wires off of this terminal.
This photo is of a Typical Positive Switch on an Amel. The Negative switch will look about the same. I placed a green circle on the switch lug that needs to receive battery charging from the MPPT.
On Fri, Jun 4, 2021 at 2:32 PM Mark McGovern <mfmcgovern@...> wrote:
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Re: Play in Brunson H6 prop blade
Mohammed, Great! And great advice! Best, CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School +1 832-380-4970 | brouse@... 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com Yacht School Calendar: www.preparetocastoff.blogspot.com/p/calendar.html
On Tue, Jun 8, 2021, 5:48 AM Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...> wrote:
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Re: Mast pads
Hi Paul Amel confirmed the material used is PU (polyurethane). They added that the hardness is 90 shore. It is 5 mm thick As many A54 owners know, the original material does not last long. I replaced mine 2 years ago with Tufnol (phenolic laminated). Hope it helps Roque Attika A54 #117 Paraty Brazil Em ter., 8 de jun. de 2021 às 08:07, Paul Osterberg <osterberg.paul.l@...> escreveu:
Ann-Sofie --
Roque Attika A54 117 Paraty - Brazil
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Re: Mast pads
Hi Paul
Amel confirmed the material used is PU (polyurethane). They added that the hardness is 90 shore. It is 5 mm thick As many A54 owners know, the original material does not last long. I replaced mine 2 years ago with Tufnol (phenolic laminated). Hope it helps Roque Attika A54 #117 Paraty Brazil
-- Roque Attika A54 117 Paraty - Brazil
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Re: Mast pads
Ann-Sofie
Thanks good to know, Paul
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Re: Mast pads
Ann-Sofie, S/Y Lady Annila <ann-sofie@...>
Hi Paul
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
We took our mast down last winter, the protection layer under the masts are not made of rubber, it is some kind of super hard nylon. Unless yours are damaged there is no need to change it. If you still want to change, buy it from Amel because if you get the wrong material the risque of getting problems are high. regards Ann-Sofie & Jonas S/Y Lady Annila, SM232, 1998 Present somewhere aling the Algarve coast, Portugal
08/06/2021 kl. 10:59 skrev Paul Osterberg <osterberg.paul.l@...>:
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Re: Play in Brunson H6 prop blade
Mohammad Shirloo
I dove with assistance from a diver and had the prop removed in less than one hour. After removing the loose blade, found out that the tightening nut on the blade would rotate by hand and the left hand locking nut was not tightened against the blade nut and therefore allowed almost two full turns prior to locking. Water has gotten in between the hub and the blade and the bearing guide has almost rusted through. I believe we have been sailing for two seasons with the prop in this condition and it was with pure luck that we found the condition before losing a blade and possibly doing a lot more damage in the process.
One more item to add to the annual check list. Dive and inspect all underwater items, as well as everything above deck. Time to rebuild again ourselves and hopefully do a better job than the “expert mechanics”. This issue keeps on being reinforced, do it yourself and at least you will either learn or make a mistake and know that you made a mistake. You will most likely not make the same mistake twice.
Thanks for all the responses.
Respectfully;
Mohammad and Aty B&B Kokomo Amel 54 #099
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
On Behalf Of Slavko Despotovic via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, June 8, 2021 12:16 AM To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Play in Brunson H6 prop blade
Just in case you have not see it. This is video from SVDelos I found this morning.
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Mast pads
Anyone know the hardness of the rubber under the masts? we will step down the masts when replacing the standing rigg, a good opportunity to replace the rubber, I can buy it from Amel, but they ask 310 € plus freight, which I think is to push it a bit far, I usually buy my spare parts direct from Amel to support the sparpart availability but for this time I would like to find an alternative.
Paul on SY Kerpa SM#259
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Re: Play in Brunson H6 prop blade
Just in case you have not see it. This is video from SVDelos I found this morning.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zFEtGRuJiD0-- Slavko SM 2000 #279 Bonne Anse in Portoroz
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Re: For those that missed the first procurement of Rub Rails
Ken Powers SV Aquarius <ken@...>
I really want to buy these Rub Rails. Hopefully we can round up 5 or more owners to complete the order for 10 rub rail sets.
Best to the Group, Ken Powers Aquarius SM2K#262
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Re: 32mm 1 1/4" Bronze Ball Valves - USA
Good to know, Mark and Bill. I just replaced the thru hull ball valve for the forward head. It was a bear to remove, mostly because of poor access and it had an Octagonal place to put a wrench on it. The flats were so small that I couldn't get a Crescent wrench to hold. I ordered a 1 1/4 " 8-point socket, but it was too big. I then ordered a 1 1/8" 8-point socket from McMaster Carr. It came in 24 hours, and voila! With a 10" extension and a bit of sweat, it came right off. The new ones I ordered have a hex configuration, so normal 6-point socket works. Kent SM 243 Kristy -- Kent & Iris KRISTY
SM243
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Re: BT SEALS Aquarius
Has anyone started a new list of owners wanting these seals? Has anyone asked the manufacturer if we can contact them individually, rather than doing a single large order? Thanks, Kent & Iris SM243 Kristy -- Kent & Iris KRISTY
SM243
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Re: Members removed because their email no longer is working
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Re: BT SEAL INSTRUCTIONS
Ken,
I want to make sure it is clear that this IS NOT my project. More importantly, I have no ego about this and was happy to share my finding with the Amel community. When I found that the silicone seals worked for me more that a year, after I had struggled with water intake for several years in spite of changing the standard seals several times and, because I was planning to start my cruising life, I decided to order a couple more for me and I posted it in our website to see if any body was interested to I order a few in that batch. After I had a few more people than expected (not as many as you had), I realized as you did that this project was going to take a lot more effort and time in my part that I had thought. However, I still ordered the first batch but I promised to myself that the next batch would be ordered by someone else. At that time, several people asked me how to install them and I did my best to remember how I had done more than a year before. I am a retired engineer and I took a lot of the steps for granted. I was only after several owners asked my about details of how to instal them that I realized that it was not as simple as it had appeared to me. I also realized that I had missed the point of using the wood device provided by Amel which was key to prevent damaging the seals during installation. I also realized that the order in which the seals were mounted did not seem to matter much since both allow the two seals to work. Now, in my pre-cruising times I was a scientist and thus I am not willing to make statements which are not proven by experimentation. I know the order I used more than 4 years ago would work fine but it was still possible that the alternative order would work equally well. In fact after receiving the second batch I realized that there were variations in the actual dimensions of the different seals, not something that would affect the sealing action of them, but they could affect the gluing of the two seals together because a small gap could be created between the lip seal and the wiper surfaces that needed to be glued together. Because such difference in dimensions was small, I figured that adding some weight (HOW MUCH, I don’t know, it depends of how much was needed), to close the gap between the two surfaces. You see Ken, life is not always black and white. The alternative order does not have that issue but, as I mentioned in a previous post it does not create as much lateral stiffness on the trunk. SO, IT MAY be that the alternative order may work better or worse. ONLY TIME WILL TELL US. To finish, please don’t think that this is MY project. It is something that I found worked for me and I was happy to share with the Amel community, as I know you do every time you find something that works for you. I hope we will have the chance to enjoy sundowners some where around the world. Jose.
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Re: Removing mold/mildew from helm seat
I recommend Microban, but do not know if you can get it there. As you know the Houston Galveston area has had its share of floods. Everyone I know used Microban on everything that got wet, including the 2x4 studs in houses...nobody had mold. Several of my clients have used Microban on all sorts of modl problems with success. 
On Mon, Jun 7, 2021 at 2:15 PM Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> wrote: Hi all,
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Re: Removing mold/mildew from helm seat
Mohammad Shirloo
Hi Scott;
Anything with bleach will be effective on mildew/mold. I would star with regular house bleach diluted at a ratio of 10 to 1 and work your way until it is effective. I would try it in an inconspicuous place on the seat first, to be sure it does not negatively affect the fabric.
Respectfully;
Mohammad and Aty B&B Kokomo Amel 54 #099
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
On Behalf Of Scott SV Tengah via groups.io
Sent: Monday, June 7, 2021 12:15 PM To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Removing mold/mildew from helm seat
Hi all,
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Re: SM winch motor brushes
Thanks Danny. Did you replace the seals with the gearbox in place above the pilot birth or did you remove it so you could do the work in the more humane position? If removed what did you get into in separating the below deck assembly from the above deck assembly?
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Mike Aletes SM240 Chesapeake
On Jun 7, 2021, at 3:46 PM, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...> wrote:
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Re: SM winch motor brushes
Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
Hi Mike. warning warning warning. The small amount of oil will multiply if you don't deal with the cause. When it multiplies the resulting shorting will do very nasty things to your motor. I had to replace mine. The gearbox is oil filled. You need to separate the motor from the gearbox and replace the lip seal. I did the job on both winches. Not difficult. I took the side plate off the gearbox that the seal is located in and pressed it out. Easier than trying to hook it out. An aside. I was astounded when I needed the new motor. Lewmar in Auckland New Zealand had the identical unit on the shelf. Kind Regards Danny SM 299 Ocean Pearl
On 08 June 2021 at 07:16 "Mike Ondra via groups.io" <mdondra@...> wrote:
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Re: SM winch motor brushes
I couldn’t help myself. Pulled the motor apart. Indeed there are four brushes. Here’s some pics for anyone who’s interested. Small amount of oil in the bottom of the motor housing that dripped out when the bottom bolt was extracted. Didn’t seem to be enough to impede anything electrical.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
  
On Jun 7, 2021, at 2:58 PM, Mike Ondra via groups.io <mdondra@...> wrote:
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