Date   

Re: Seasickness cures and medication

JOHN HAYES
 

 Scopaderm a patch that sticks to the skin behind the ear and available at pharmacies in NZ is excellent for crew afflicted by sea sickness . It’s not cheap at about NZ $25 for 2 patches. You wear both. Does not make users drowsy.  I don’t use myself but always keep some on board for use when someone on board is afflicted 

John Hayes 
Nga Waka SN 61
Wellington NZ

On 10/06/2021, at 4:55 AM, eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:



I was asked by a crewmember to poll the group to find out what Amel owners used

and recommended for seasickness.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 


Re: Seasickness cures and medication

Mark Garver
 

Eric,

We keep a good supply of ginger gum aboard and my wife swears by its effectiveness!

Mark Garver
S/V It’s Good


On Jun 9, 2021, at 11:55 AM, eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:



I was asked by a crewmember to poll the group to find out what Amel owners used

and recommended for seasickness.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 


Seasickness cures and medication

Eric Freedman
 

I was asked by a crewmember to poll the group to find out what Amel owners used

and recommended for seasickness.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 


Re: Yanmar 100 HP (4JH3-HTE) Exhaust Hose Replacement

Paul Stascavage
 

Thank you Bill R. and Bill K.

The wealth of knowledge on this forum saves me so much time.

I truly appreciate you both taking the time to share.

All the best,

Paul Stascavage
SM #466 - s/v Rita Kathryn
Currently Exploring City Island, NY

www.RitaKathryn.com


Re: Yanmar 100 HP (4JH3-HTE) Exhaust Hose Replacement

 

Paul,

INTERNAL DIAMETER (INCHES) 3
EXTERNAL DIAMETER (INCHES) 3 5/16
WEIGHT (LBS) 3,1
MAX. PRESSURE (PSI) 47,86
BENDING RADIUS (INCHES) 4 1/2

About $20 - $25/ foot

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Tue, Jun 8, 2021 at 5:41 PM Bill Kinney <cruisingconsulting@...> wrote:
Paul,

I have not seen any large difference in quality between the major hose manufacturers. Shields, Trident, and Vetus all make excellent hose.  The primary difference in hose (other than size, of course!) is the choice of with wire re-enforcement or without.  The wire wrapped hoses can make significantly tighter bends without collapsing, but are otherwise similar in specifications and expected lifespan.

A possible advantage of Vetus hose is that it is made specifically to metric sizes, but in these sizes things match very closely either way.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Great Giana Cay, Exumas, The Bahamas


Re: Prop Settings for older SM with Volvo/MaxProp

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Bill,

my experience was to ruin a perfectly good engine because the waste gate was stuck causing over pressuring at higher revs. Check for freedom of movement of the operating flap. You can do this by applying air pressure to the bellows by removing the outer end of the small air hose. This will check the bellows at the same time. Or remove the circlip holding the operating rod to the waste gate arm and check for free movement of the arm. You should be able to flick it back and forth with your finger tip. If that is OK I would not see how higher revs would cause any damage. However I would never run my engine constantly at peak revs. My diesel utility vehicle does 1500 rpm at 100 kmh, our legal speed limit

Kind Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

On 09 June 2021 at 10:56 Bill Kinney <cruisingconsulting@...> wrote:

Danny, I hear you, except… the turbo is new.  The exhaust elbow is new, and clean.  The boost pressure is spot on Volvo’s spec (I measured it) the waste gate opening is in spec.  When going upwind, the engine will NOT climb up into the turbo boost zone if the RPM is limited to 2800.  Yet it generates full power and speed if I allow the max RPM to climb to 3350.  

What problems would you predict I’ll see by running at this prop setting?

Bill Kinney
SM160,  Harmonie
Great Guiana Cay, Exumas, Bahamas


Re: Prop Settings for older SM with Volvo/MaxProp

Bill Kinney
 

Danny, I hear you, except… the turbo is new.  The exhaust elbow is new, and clean.  The boost pressure is spot on Volvo’s spec (I measured it) the waste gate opening is in spec.  When going upwind, the engine will NOT climb up into the turbo boost zone if the RPM is limited to 2800.  Yet it generates full power and speed if I allow the max RPM to climb to 3350.  

What problems would you predict I’ll see by running at this prop setting?

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Great Guiana Cay, Exumas, Bahamas


Re: Yanmar 100 HP (4JH3-HTE) Exhaust Hose Replacement

Bill Kinney
 

Paul,

I have not seen any large difference in quality between the major hose manufacturers. Shields, Trident, and Vetus all make excellent hose.  The primary difference in hose (other than size, of course!) is the choice of with wire re-enforcement or without.  The wire wrapped hoses can make significantly tighter bends without collapsing, but are otherwise similar in specifications and expected lifespan.

A possible advantage of Vetus hose is that it is made specifically to metric sizes, but in these sizes things match very closely either way.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Great Giana Cay, Exumas, The Bahamas


Re: Play in Brunson H6 prop blade

ngtnewington Newington
 

Well done Mohammad.
At the end of the day we all realise that you gotta do it yourself. There are, of course, plenty of excellent tradesmen, but few and far between.
I bought the full service kit from Buntons but all is well for the moment so it rests in wait.
I had toyed with the idea of getting the yard to do it over the winter, but not now, not after your story.
I am in Athens connecting to Leros in the morning…..
Nick
Amelia Aml54-019


On 8 Jun 2021, at 16:44, Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...> wrote:



I have now removed all three blades. Two blades are missing the track for the roller bearing to seat in. The third one has it and the blade is in perfect shape. All of these parts  were in the kit that I supplied to them. They must have seen these tracks and did not know where they went and decided it was extra parts without even an inquiry. The strange part is that one of the blades was done correctly, so I fail to see how they missed the other two, unless they were done by different “mechanics”. I’m hoping to finish dismantling and cleaning today, re-assemble tomorrow. The diver is scheduled to come back Thursday AM to assist in the re-installation of the prop.

 

The plus side is that we have avoided a haul out and the whole process should take less than 2 days. This is something that can be done without an assist from a diver and I believe the whole process can be accomplished in a long day, in calm weather at anchor.

 

Respectfully;

 

 

Mohammad and Aty

B&B Kokomo

Amel 54 #099

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of CW Bill Rouse via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, June 8, 2021 5:31 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Play in Brunson H6 prop blade

 

Mohammed,

 

Great! And great advice!

Best,

CW Bill Rouse 
Amel Owners Yacht School
+1 832-380-4970 | brouse@...
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com 
Yacht School Calendar: www.preparetocastoff.blogspot.com/p/calendar.html


   

 

On Tue, Jun 8, 2021, 5:48 AM Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...> wrote:

I dove with assistance from a diver and had the prop removed in less than one hour. After removing the loose blade, found out that the tightening nut on the blade would rotate by hand and the left hand locking nut was not tightened against the blade nut and therefore allowed almost two full turns prior to locking. Water has gotten in between the hub and the blade and the bearing guide has almost rusted through.  I believe we have been sailing for two seasons with the prop in this condition and it was with pure luck that we found the condition before losing a blade and possibly doing a lot more damage in the process.

 

One more item to add to the annual check list. Dive and inspect all underwater items, as well as everything above deck. Time to rebuild again ourselves and hopefully do a better job than the “expert mechanics”. This issue keeps on being reinforced, do it yourself and at least you will either learn or make a mistake and know that you made a mistake. You will most likely not make the same mistake twice.

 

Thanks for all the responses.

 

Respectfully;

 

 

Mohammad and Aty

B&B Kokomo

Amel 54 #099

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Slavko Despotovic via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, June 8, 2021 12:16 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Play in Brunson H6 prop blade

 

Just in case you have not see it. This is video from SVDelos I found this morning.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zFEtGRuJiD0--

Slavko

SM 2000
#279 Bonne Anse in Portoroz


Re: Yanmar 100 HP (4JH3-HTE) Exhaust Hose Replacement

Paul Stascavage
 

Good day Bill and thank you for your reply.

Unfortunately, as this product is manufactured in Turkey, none of the US suppliers I have contacted have any stock or know when it will become available.

What would be your second choice? The chandlers in the US seem to normally stock Shield, Trident, MPI and Vettus.

All the best,

Paul Stascavage
SM #466 - s/v Rita Kathryn
Currently Exploring City Island, NY

www.RitaKathryn.com


Re: Play in Brunson H6 prop blade

Mohammad Shirloo
 

I have now removed all three blades. Two blades are missing the track for the roller bearing to seat in. The third one has it and the blade is in perfect shape. All of these parts  were in the kit that I supplied to them. They must have seen these tracks and did not know where they went and decided it was extra parts without even an inquiry. The strange part is that one of the blades was done correctly, so I fail to see how they missed the other two, unless they were done by different “mechanics”. I’m hoping to finish dismantling and cleaning today, re-assemble tomorrow. The diver is scheduled to come back Thursday AM to assist in the re-installation of the prop.

 

The plus side is that we have avoided a haul out and the whole process should take less than 2 days. This is something that can be done without an assist from a diver and I believe the whole process can be accomplished in a long day, in calm weather at anchor.

 

Respectfully;

 

 

Mohammad and Aty

B&B Kokomo

Amel 54 #099

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of CW Bill Rouse via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, June 8, 2021 5:31 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Play in Brunson H6 prop blade

 

Mohammed,

 

Great! And great advice!

Best,

CW Bill Rouse 
Amel Owners Yacht School
+1 832-380-4970 | brouse@...
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com 
Yacht School Calendar: www.preparetocastoff.blogspot.com/p/calendar.html


   

 

On Tue, Jun 8, 2021, 5:48 AM Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...> wrote:

I dove with assistance from a diver and had the prop removed in less than one hour. After removing the loose blade, found out that the tightening nut on the blade would rotate by hand and the left hand locking nut was not tightened against the blade nut and therefore allowed almost two full turns prior to locking. Water has gotten in between the hub and the blade and the bearing guide has almost rusted through.  I believe we have been sailing for two seasons with the prop in this condition and it was with pure luck that we found the condition before losing a blade and possibly doing a lot more damage in the process.

 

One more item to add to the annual check list. Dive and inspect all underwater items, as well as everything above deck. Time to rebuild again ourselves and hopefully do a better job than the “expert mechanics”. This issue keeps on being reinforced, do it yourself and at least you will either learn or make a mistake and know that you made a mistake. You will most likely not make the same mistake twice.

 

Thanks for all the responses.

 

Respectfully;

 

 

Mohammad and Aty

B&B Kokomo

Amel 54 #099

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Slavko Despotovic via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, June 8, 2021 12:16 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Play in Brunson H6 prop blade

 

Just in case you have not see it. This is video from SVDelos I found this morning.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zFEtGRuJiD0--

Slavko

SM 2000
#279 Bonne Anse in Portoroz


Re: Mast pads

Paul Osterberg
 

Roque
Thanks
Paul


Re: Solar installation and Link10 Battery Monitor

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Bill, Mark, Daniela and Michael, 

My solar loves your solution and is now kissing cousins with the Link10.

Happy days. Just two 180 W panels have reduced our genset time significantly. The Greens would approve.

Thanks again,

Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302 Porto Rafti, Greece


From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
Sent: 04 June 2021 21:42
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Solar installatio and Link10
 
Ian,

Mark's advice is correct. I am going to go a bit further.

I had a marine electrician wire my MPPT and panels to the battery bank. He connected the negative terminal to a convenient bolt on the shunt in the photo below. This is the wrong place because it distorted the readings showing too much energy going into the battery bank. See the next photo below.
image.png

I suggest that you connect the cables to the battery switches and connect them on the Battery side of the positive switch and the negative switch. I also suggest that you consider using a positive and negative bus bar to take some of the wires off of this terminal. This photo is of a Typical Positive Switch on an Amel. The Negative switch will look about the same. I placed a green circle on the switch lug that needs to receive battery charging from the MPPT.
image.png


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Fri, Jun 4, 2021 at 2:32 PM Mark McGovern <mfmcgovern@...> wrote:
Ian,

It's sounds like the DC negative cable from your solar charge controller is wired incorrectly and is bypassing the shunt.  Therefore, the shunt and the battery monitor are not "seeing" the amps going into the batteries from the solar panels.  Try moving the negative cable coming from the solar charge controller to the "inlet" side of the shunt so that the current from the charge controller is going through the shunt.  The shunt is located outside the battery compartment on the other side of the main DC negative stud that is inside the battery compartment.  Remove the mattress above the battery compartment and you will see a small hole where you can access  the shunt.

Mark


On Fri, Jun 4, 2021, 2:36 PM ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@...> <ianjudyjenkins@...> wrote:
Hello all, 

We have just escaped London for Greece and reunion with Pen Azen who has been fitted with two solar panels in our absence . 
The solar monitor shows good volts and amps going in to the batteries but the Link 10 , whilst showing good volts ( 26-28 ) also shows that with only the fridge on ( we are ashore ) we are losing amps, now down to about 70%
What is curious is that when we use the 220v chargers with shore power the readings don’t change. 

Can it be that in some way the addition of the solar interferes with the function of the Link10?

The panels are small , giving maybe 7.5 Amps . The wiring from the MPPT goes direct into the battery compartment to connect with the two main stubs

Any ideas ? 

Ian and Judy, Pen Azen , SM 302, Kilada, Greece


--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA


Re: Play in Brunson H6 prop blade

 

Mohammed,

Great! And great advice!

Best,

CW Bill Rouse 
Amel Owners Yacht School
+1 832-380-4970 | brouse@...
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com 
Yacht School Calendar: www.preparetocastoff.blogspot.com/p/calendar.html


   


On Tue, Jun 8, 2021, 5:48 AM Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...> wrote:

I dove with assistance from a diver and had the prop removed in less than one hour. After removing the loose blade, found out that the tightening nut on the blade would rotate by hand and the left hand locking nut was not tightened against the blade nut and therefore allowed almost two full turns prior to locking. Water has gotten in between the hub and the blade and the bearing guide has almost rusted through.  I believe we have been sailing for two seasons with the prop in this condition and it was with pure luck that we found the condition before losing a blade and possibly doing a lot more damage in the process.

 

One more item to add to the annual check list. Dive and inspect all underwater items, as well as everything above deck. Time to rebuild again ourselves and hopefully do a better job than the “expert mechanics”. This issue keeps on being reinforced, do it yourself and at least you will either learn or make a mistake and know that you made a mistake. You will most likely not make the same mistake twice.

 

Thanks for all the responses.

 

Respectfully;

 

 

Mohammad and Aty

B&B Kokomo

Amel 54 #099

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Slavko Despotovic via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, June 8, 2021 12:16 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Play in Brunson H6 prop blade

 

Just in case you have not see it. This is video from SVDelos I found this morning.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zFEtGRuJiD0--

Slavko

SM 2000
#279 Bonne Anse in Portoroz


Re: Mast pads

Roque
 

Hi Paul

Amel confirmed the material used is PU (polyurethane). They added that the hardness is 90 shore. It is 5 mm thick

As many A54 owners know, the original material does not last long. I replaced mine 
 2 years ago with Tufnol (phenolic laminated).

Hope it helps

Roque

Attika A54 #117
Paraty Brazil

Em ter., 8 de jun. de 2021 às 08:07, Paul Osterberg <osterberg.paul.l@...> escreveu:

Ann-Sofie
Thanks good to know, 
Paul


--
Roque
Attika A54 117
Paraty - Brazil 


Re: Mast pads

Roque
 

Hi Paul

Amel confirmed the material used is PU (polyurethane). They added that the hardness is 90 shore. It is 5 mm thick

As many A54 owners know, the original material does not last long. I replaced mine 
 2 years ago with Tufnol (phenolic laminated).

Hope it helps

Roque

Attika A54 #117
Paraty Brazil 

--
Roque
Attika A54 117
Paraty - Brazil 


Re: Mast pads

Paul Osterberg
 

Ann-Sofie
Thanks good to know, 
Paul


Re: Mast pads

Ann-Sofie, S/Y Lady Annila
 

Hi Paul
We took our mast down last winter, the protection layer under the masts are not made of rubber, it is some kind of super hard nylon. Unless yours are damaged there is no need to change it. If you still want to change, buy it from Amel because if you get the wrong material the risque of getting problems are high.

regards
Ann-Sofie & Jonas
S/Y Lady Annila, SM232, 1998
Present somewhere aling the Algarve coast, Portugal


Skickat från min iPhone

08/06/2021 kl. 10:59 skrev Paul Osterberg <osterberg.paul.l@...>:

Anyone know the hardness of the rubber under the masts? we will step down the masts when replacing the standing rigg, a good opportunity to replace the rubber, I can buy it from Amel, but they ask 310 € plus freight, which I think is to push it a bit far, I usually buy my spare parts direct from Amel to support the sparpart availability but for this time I would like to find an alternative.
Paul on SY Kerpa SM#259


Re: Play in Brunson H6 prop blade

Mohammad Shirloo
 

I dove with assistance from a diver and had the prop removed in less than one hour. After removing the loose blade, found out that the tightening nut on the blade would rotate by hand and the left hand locking nut was not tightened against the blade nut and therefore allowed almost two full turns prior to locking. Water has gotten in between the hub and the blade and the bearing guide has almost rusted through.  I believe we have been sailing for two seasons with the prop in this condition and it was with pure luck that we found the condition before losing a blade and possibly doing a lot more damage in the process.

 

One more item to add to the annual check list. Dive and inspect all underwater items, as well as everything above deck. Time to rebuild again ourselves and hopefully do a better job than the “expert mechanics”. This issue keeps on being reinforced, do it yourself and at least you will either learn or make a mistake and know that you made a mistake. You will most likely not make the same mistake twice.

 

Thanks for all the responses.

 

Respectfully;

 

 

Mohammad and Aty

B&B Kokomo

Amel 54 #099

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Slavko Despotovic via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, June 8, 2021 12:16 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Play in Brunson H6 prop blade

 

Just in case you have not see it. This is video from SVDelos I found this morning.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zFEtGRuJiD0--

Slavko

SM 2000
#279 Bonne Anse in Portoroz


Mast pads

Paul Osterberg
 

Anyone know the hardness of the rubber under the masts? we will step down the masts when replacing the standing rigg, a good opportunity to replace the rubber, I can buy it from Amel, but they ask 310 € plus freight, which I think is to push it a bit far, I usually buy my spare parts direct from Amel to support the sparpart availability but for this time I would like to find an alternative.
Paul on SY Kerpa SM#259

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