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Re: Running larger battery charger cables
Bill,
Two years ago, I replaced my chargers for Mastervolt 60 amp and 100 amp. According to the specs for the 100 am charger a cable AWG2 is perfectly fine and thus it can be connected to the batteries with the standard cables of our boat. I would not spend the effort changing them. If you want to add extra safety you can connect in parallel the cables going for each of the two battery chargers. I kept the same cables of the original 30 and 60 amp charger cables for the 60 and 100 amp chargers without any problem. Jose Ipanema SM 276
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Re: Preventing Bow Thruster drop during service
Hi Eric,
Until about 3 or 4 years ago I used the recommended method that you describe, using not one but two hose clamps to make sure I will not drop the BT into the water, or worse, on the ground as it happened to Delos years ago. Initially, I was passing the line through the propeller space as Ian does but I realized that if the line is properly adjusted it is not necessary and it keeps the BT in a safe and stable position before uncoupling the trunk from the motor to mount the wood-line gadget. If I had to do it in the water I would still use the hose clamps but also use the line for further safety. Jose SM 278
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Re: Mounting a life raft on the SM railing
Thank you Eric, I currently have a Viking 6-persons (to be politically correct) raft and have carried it on the same locker as you with the ditch bag for 10 years. However, It and I are both becoming old, So, before heading to the pacific I am replacing it with the same size Viking but on the plastic box which is suitable for rail mounting and easier to deploy in an emergency. I hope that moving it to the starboard rail should also improve quite a bit Ipanema's list to port.
Best times, Jose Ipanema SM 278
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Re: Lifting the dodger on a Sharki
Gerhard Mueller
@Aras Grinius
Can you please send again your file Guillatine Rebuild.zip ? It does not open here. -- Gerhard Mueller Amel Sharki #60 Currently Port-Saint-Louis, France
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Re: Running larger battery charger cables
Take pictures when you do it!
-- Jason Rutledge SV Liahona SM 335
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Re: Running larger battery charger cables
As long as you drill through vertically above the existing cables in the cable way, you will miss the fuel tank.
I know, I've done it. Cheers Alan Elyse SM437
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Re: AC not cooling
I believe that is a Deaerator. I have not seen this on other 55s. I probably missed it. Thanks, Bill
Another try on the photo. ´
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Re: AC not cooling
Another try on the photo. ´
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Re: Lewmar ST 40 winches on an SM
Hi,
Yes the central spindle does pull out from the top. It can be stubborn at times but it should come out once you have removed the two or three inserts that sit at the top of the tower where the spindle sinks into. You may need to use some penetrating oil to free them up a bit more. Regards, Arno Luijten SV Luna, A54-121
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Re: AC not cooling
Joerg, Photo of Deaerator? I think you forgot and please tell me where it is located. And one thing a lot of people forget is that slower saltwater flow means lower heat exchange efficiency. Bill
Thanks very much, Bill. I‘ve pretty much followed the instructions regarding bleeding air from the manual but only one of my three chiller units has a valve to bleed air. I’ve bled air from both the salt water pump and the circulation pump. However, I believe I have a dearator- see pic. Taking off the cap doesn’t do anything but if I stick a screwdriver into the top, turbulent water/air comes out.
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Re: AC not cooling
Thanks very much, Bill. I‘ve pretty much followed the instructions regarding bleeding air from the manual but only one of my three chiller units has a valve to bleed air. I’ve bled air from both the salt water pump and the circulation pump. However, I believe I have a dearator- see pic. Taking off the cap doesn’t do anything but if I stick a screwdriver into the top, turbulent water/air comes out.
It seems to me that if the salt water circuit is working (it is - water is coming out normally), the compressor should be getting the temp lower than 28C. So I think it‘s likely a low coolant situation. The yard tried the system 3 months ago and it was working but not cooling much. Again, this seems to point to low coolant. Again, many thanks for your thoughts! Cheers Joerg
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Re: Lifting the dodger on a Sharki
Gregory Shea
Areas,
I elected to lift the dodger since I was not confident in my ability to do a good woodworking job in Greece. My other two choices were to cut the hatch in half or cut the trim and rebuild it.
The front of the dodger refused to cooperate. It is somehow locked in place. I wonder if someone put an extra screw up into it and then covered it with the headlining. Graham Johnston’s on Zephyr has lifted his twice, with no problem. Not me.
Bill Rouse posted the photo of how a prior owner of Gerhard Mueller’s Sharki had cut the trim. Gerhard shared that with me when he got to his boat in May.
I could not see a way to cut and veneer the hatch without the wiper causing problems with the veneer.
Bill pushed me over the edge by suggesting the Gerhard solution. I had found some teak molding from a prior boat on board that would work, look OK and cover up my butchery with an oscillating saw.
The hatch is out and ready for veneering tomorrow.
I wanted to recount my experience to illustrate the multi faceted support of the forum. My solution was an amalgamation of several prior experiences by forum members, modified by my situation. I’m really looking forward to not having an eyesore masquerading
as a hatch.
Thanks to everyone.
Greg Shea
Cap des Iles
Sharki 133
Preveza
On Jun 12, 2021, at 1:55 PM, Aras Grinius <aras.grinius@...> wrote:
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Re: AC not cooling
Joerg, You just brought up one of the continuing issues with some 55 owners. I have tried to learn as much as I can about the Climma Chiller System and maybe I can offer a few things that you have not considered. Please let me know because I am still learning. The Climma Chiller system on most A55s is both efficient and complicated. Finding a qualified and experienced technician for the Climma Chiller system will be a challenge. I believe that the most common issues in order of probability are:
Climma's instructions on removing are: "The air must be completely removed from all the access points of the circuit (collectors, fan coils, and all the other system components) starting from the lowest point and maintaining the pressure at 1,5 Bar. This must be done without [running] the pump. Continue to remove air from each single access point of the freshwater circuit until no air exits anymore, always maintaining the pressure at 1,5 Bar." Comment: I believe that when removing air, if the pressure drops, you will have to stop the bleed process, turn on the pump and potentially add more fluid until the pressure again increases to 1.5 BAR, then start the bleeding process over again at the lowest point. Climma's instructions continue: "Start the system (compressor) in COOL mode. Both the pumps (sea and freshwater Leave the freshwater pump working for 30 seconds, then shut down the system completely again and start with the previous procedure to remove air from each access point to the fresh water at 1,5 Bar. Air removal is complete when no more air exits from the access points and the freshwater pump works with no problem and with no noise." Comment: I take this to mean that the process of removing all air will take at least 2 attempts. Climma also states, "We strongly advise installing in the freshwater circuit a Deaerator, right after the pump water exit. The Deaerator will reduce almost to zero the need of removing air from the circuit. Deaerators are available in different sizes depending on the size of the freshwater circuit." I am not absolutely positive of this, but I believe that Amel did not install a Deaerator. I have not seen one on an Amel with a Climma Chiller System, and incidentally, there are none offered by Veco on their website. Most of the 55 owners I know have an issue with low levels in the freshwater system and I believe have further complications with air and the insufficient process of bleeding air. It seems to me that this suggested Deaerator should be investigated further. Here are some examples of a DEARATOR:   Bill
After 2 years, I am trying to get the Climma working again. Both the saltwater and the circulation pump started up fine but I needed to fill up the circulation cycle a little bit to get to the required 1.5 bar. The compressor starts up fine as well. But while the temperature of the coolant decreases initially by a few degrees, it then stalls and increases again. I suspect I have a coolant leak but I wonder whether there are alternatives to calling the service man to fill it up. Any ideas?
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Re: Running larger battery charger cables
Chris Doucette
You can drill new holes above them through the bulkhead there’s an area in front of the tank that small just above where the cables penetrate right Within the foot step.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Make sure you know we are drilling as not to drill into the fuel tank.
On Jun 12, 2021, at 11:52 AM, william reynolds <sail23692@...> wrote:
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Running larger battery charger cables
william reynolds
I'm replacing my 50 amp Dolphin charger with a 100 amp Dolphin charger. The larger charger requires larger cables. Past posts have addressed the issue and no one
has come up with a suggestion on running new cables through the present cable duct which is filled with some very hard material. I would like to hear form anyone who has attempted rerunning cables through the existing ducting. Bill Reynolds Cloudstreet
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AC not cooling
After 2 years, I am trying to get the Climma working again. Both the saltwater and the circulation pump started up fine but I needed to fill up the circulation cycle a little bit to get to the required 1.5 bar. The compressor starts up fine as well. But while the temperature of the coolant decreases initially by a few degrees, it then stalls and increases again. I suspect I have a coolant leak but I wonder whether there are alternatives to calling the service man to fill it up. Any ideas?
Many thanks! Joerg Esdorn A55 #53 Kincsem In very hot Vigo, Spain
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Re: Lifting the dodger on a Sharki
Here are my pics for the re-build. Aras Sharki #163
On Sat, Jun 12, 2021 at 6:55 AM Aras Grinius via groups.io <aras.grinius=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:
--
Aras Grinius
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Re: Storage Hatch gaskets
Mark McGovern
Pat,
A few people on this forum have reported having good results using the following product: Clean Seal, Inc. Part #: 342HATS-100; D-section 342 with Adhesive, 100 feet Price: $2.092/foot The company is located in the USA. Contact information: (800) 366-3682 www.cleanseal.com cleanseal@... I purchased 100 feet in order to redo all of the hatch seals but I have not yet used it so I cannot vouch for it's effectiveness. The company was very easy to deal with and even sent me free samples to check it out before buying. -- Mark McGovern SM #440 Cara Deale, MD USA
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Re: Lifting the dodger on a Sharki
Greg, I had to re-make mine. Rather than take off Hard Dodger we cut ours so that it would slide out. We used wood bungs to join them back togetherwith new wood of course. Aras Sharki #163
On Fri, Jun 11, 2021 at 3:22 PM Gregory Shea <gmshea@...> wrote: Hey all, --
Aras Grinius
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Re: Storage Hatch gaskets
McMaster Carr also sells gasket material. 3M sells adhesive. You can get that from amazon. Aras Sharki #163
I would like to replace the gaskets on all the storage hatches ,they are compressed and leaking somewhat. Does anyone know the dimensions and a source in the US. to buy them. I wonder if they have an adhesive backing or applied with contact cement, a backing would be less messy and easier. --
Aras Grinius
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