Date   

Chain Counter

william reynolds
 

My chain counter, which was working properly, suddenly ceased to function.
There are no wiring diagrams that I can find. I searched the Amel site and found several hundred threads but no wiring diagrams. I tried to trace the associated wiring but what I found was a plethora of non associated wires.
The wires to the sensor on the  windless were blue, brown and a yellow/green bonding/ground wire. These led to the area in the fwd cabin where the relays for the windlass were and then  disappeared forward never to be seen again.
In the area above the sink, to the left of the steering rack is a box labeled "computer of the chain. There were 2 large black cables with #16 - green, white and black wires within that went to the counter above on the panel. These connected to smaller grey cables at a terminal strip which then disappeared into a large bundle and I ASSUME go the the chain counter box below the nav station. I when I checked the fuse on the box labled "chain computer" all the instruments quit!
The boxes under the nav station were Newmar equipment and labled VHF radio, full time dc to dc (24 to12 volt) and Hydra/chain computer. The wires from the box above the sink terminate here somehow. Anyone have a clue as the schematic or wiring diagram. There is a switch on the "chain comp. box that turns off the chain computer AND all the instruments.  You have to kill all the instruments to work on the windlass. Not good if you are underway.
Any information out there??
Bill Reynolds
Cloudstreet SM2K 331


Re: Rigging and Terminals

VICTOR MOLERO
 

Good to know Jarek.
Thanks for the reply.
Best.
Victor


Re: Rigging and Terminals

 

Mark is correct about using ACMO's Stainless Steel Turnbuckles with Bronze inserts. 

The reason that chrome-plated bronze is not desirable anymore is that the EPA in Europe and the USA has restricted the chrome-plating process and chemicals that were previously used are outlawed. This has made anything that is chrome-plated less desirable, especially in a marine environment. The same thing applies to chrome-plated bronze winches, etc.

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Fri, Jun 25, 2021 at 12:26 AM Mark Barter <markbarter100@...> wrote:
If going for ACMO, which I would do, just make sure you go with stainless for the body. The bronze ones tarnish quickly and can't be satisfactorily polished. 

ACMO's customer service is excellent. I am sure they will be able to advise you if you are at all unsure. 


--
Mark & Nicky Barter
S/V Nunky
SM 110


Re: Rigging and Terminals

Jarek Zemlo
 

Victor Hi,

After purchasing my SM201 in 2020 I changed all for brand new BSI and it is superior quality. I considered ACMO but price/quality ratio was all in favour of BSI.

Jarek
SY NOA BLUE
SM 201


Re: Rigging and Terminals

VICTOR MOLERO
 

Thank you Mark.
Best


Re: Rigging and Terminals

Mark Barter
 

If going for ACMO, which I would do, just make sure you go with stainless for the body. The bronze ones tarnish quickly and can't be satisfactorily polished. 

ACMO's customer service is excellent. I am sure they will be able to advise you if you are at all unsure. 


--
Mark & Nicky Barter
S/V Nunky
SM 110


Re: VHF antennas

Mark Barter
 

I think I am suffering from analysis paralysis. I have read that LMR-400 is superior to RG8-X especially where the cable run is over 20m but I am worried that LMR-400 maybe too thick to run down the mast. Once at the bottom of the mast I don't see any problem and I am not worried about the bend radius of either coax.

I have noted however that Scott seems to be more than happy with the results after using RG8-X so maybe LMR-400 is just overkill. Like I say, I maybe overthinking this. It is 6am and I have thought of little else since I woke at 5.  

Has anyone successfully run LMR-400 down the mast of a Super Maramu to the nav station? 


--
Mark & Nicky Barter
S/V Nunky
SM 110


Re: VHF antennas

Scott SV Tengah
 

Porter, 

It's not the solder that's the issue. It's the design of the PL-259 plug used for VHF antennas. You just have to seal it well with self amalgamating tape and then a layer of good electrical tape. I even zip tied the electrical tape for good measure.

Some stuff the plug with silicone grease to remove all air pockets. But knowing how nothing sticks to silicone, I just put a little grease on the conductor and then wrapped the whole connector up really well. 

On Wed, Jun 23, 2021 at 12:17 PM Porter McRoberts via groups.io <portermcroberts=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Is there a solder that is marine rated and less likely to participate in the ever present electrolytic process? 

Has anyone ever gold plated terminals or wire?  Would that help ( as gold is a highly noble metal) with corrosion in these important and hard-to-maintain locations?



Porter McRoberts 
S/V IBIS A54-152
WhatsApp:+1 754 265 2206

On Jun 24, 2021, at 7:15 AM, Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> wrote:


Mark,

I bought 43 meters of RG-8X and that was enough on my A54 to run new cable from:

(1) The vhf antenna at the top of the main all the way to the VHF headunit (NOT just the coupler at the mastbase inside the boat) 
(2) The ais antenna at the top of the mizzen down to just the coupler in the aft shower, at the mizzen mastbase.

I got mine from Davis RF in the US - cheapest I found for marine rated rg-8x. I can't imagine trying to squeeze thicker cable through the conduits, but I believe some others have tried and possibly even succeeded. The original A54 cable is much thinner RG-58, FYI.

Get real soldered PL-259 connectors and watch some youtube videos on how to do it. I rubber taped the connectors and then put 3M electrical tape over it. The PL-259 are not, by design, waterproof.

On Tue, Jun 22, 2021 at 8:50 PM Mark Barter <markbarter100@...> wrote:
If anybody has replaced their VHF cables could you tell me what lengths of cable were needed for the main and mizzen masts.

I am away from the boat at the moment but this is a job we need to do because our VHF reception is really poor. No doubt almost completely caused by me having to splice the cable after inadvertently cutting it!
--
Mark & Nicky Barter
S/V Nunky
SM 110


--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Re: Steering Wheel Dimensions for new leather cover - AMEL Sharki?

Aras Grinius
 

bare metal was 22mm [rim] 24 with leather.  ALL dimensions are bare metal.
I think there might be some slight variation during manufacture of the wheel. 

Aras
Sharki #163 1988


On Thu, Jun 24, 2021 at 2:22 AM Johannes Schmidt <info@...> wrote:

Dear Aras,

thank you for submitting these measurements - just to be sure as you mentioned the leather - wrap with 2 mm:
Is the rim (and/or the other dimensions) therefore 24mm with or without the leather - or is 24mm already the final (blank) dimension? Typical rim / tube sizes are 22mm, 25mm, 28mm....

Thanks for a short verification!

Johannes



--
Aras Grinius


Re: Rigging and Terminals

VICTOR MOLERO
 

Thank you so much, Arno and Bill. 
This group is awesome! An endless well of valuable information...
Best.
Victor 


Re: Steering Wheel Dimensions for new leather cover - AMEL Sharki?

Johannes Schmidt
 

Dear Aras,

thank you for submitting these measurements - just to be sure as you mentioned the leather - wrap with 2 mm:
Is the rim (and/or the other dimensions) therefore 24mm with or without the leather - or is 24mm already the final (blank) dimension? Typical rim / tube sizes are 22mm, 25mm, 28mm....

Thanks for a short verification!

Johannes


Re: Running rigging

Drew Gaffney
 

Hi Bill,
I have the "running rigging llist on pg 19.  Is that the list you note above?
I think I'm a bit confused as the various brands and suppliers don't always include the actual type of material.
We're heading back to Sardinia next Wednesday and I was going to replace some of the older lines.
Thanks,
Drew 


Re: VHF antennas

Paul Harries
 


Re: Steering Wheel Dimensions for new leather cover - AMEL Sharki?

Aras Grinius
 

The wheel dimensions I measured are as follows:
Spokes at the hub 38mm
Spokes at the rim 18mm
Rim 24 mm

Leather wrap is 2mm

I hope this helps

Aras 
Sharkli #163 1988


On Mon, Jun 21, 2021 at 3:40 AM Johannes Schmidt <info@...> wrote:
Dear Aras,
Thank you for your offer to further support in this matter. I am still a little unsure about the exact diameter of the tube. Do you have a chance to take the dimensions of the tube without a cover - ideally with a caliper? I have found a possible product, so in addition to the exact tube diameter, I mainly need the dimensions of the spokes: The diameter - on the outside - junction point to the circle, as well as the diameter of the spokes 10 cm further inside - as the spokes are conical .

To make things easier, here is the link to the product we're looking for: Skincloshop

Thanks in advance!

Johannes

Many ThanksOn Fri, Jun 18, 2021 at 09:01 PM, Aras Grinius wrote:
Johannes,
 
Are you still stuck on the dimensions of the wheel?
I can go and measure mine.
 
Aras 
Sharki #163

On Fri, Jun 18, 2021 at 3:36 AM Johannes Schmidt <info@...> wrote:
Dear Greg,

I did receive your fabulous message and replied to say thanks a lot - didn't you get this?

Please look up your Junk folders too - I recently got messages that I get (false positively) suspected.

Thanks again for your help!

Johannes 

 

 


 
--
Aras Grinius



--
Aras Grinius


Re: VHF antennas

Porter McRoberts
 

Is there a solder that is marine rated and less likely to participate in the ever present electrolytic process? 

Has anyone ever gold plated terminals or wire?  Would that help ( as gold is a highly noble metal) with corrosion in these important and hard-to-maintain locations?



Porter McRoberts 
S/V IBIS A54-152
WhatsApp:+1 754 265 2206
Www.fouribis.net

On Jun 24, 2021, at 7:15 AM, Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> wrote:


Mark,

I bought 43 meters of RG-8X and that was enough on my A54 to run new cable from:

(1) The vhf antenna at the top of the main all the way to the VHF headunit (NOT just the coupler at the mastbase inside the boat) 
(2) The ais antenna at the top of the mizzen down to just the coupler in the aft shower, at the mizzen mastbase.

I got mine from Davis RF in the US - cheapest I found for marine rated rg-8x. I can't imagine trying to squeeze thicker cable through the conduits, but I believe some others have tried and possibly even succeeded. The original A54 cable is much thinner RG-58, FYI.

Get real soldered PL-259 connectors and watch some youtube videos on how to do it. I rubber taped the connectors and then put 3M electrical tape over it. The PL-259 are not, by design, waterproof.

On Tue, Jun 22, 2021 at 8:50 PM Mark Barter <markbarter100@...> wrote:
If anybody has replaced their VHF cables could you tell me what lengths of cable were needed for the main and mizzen masts.

I am away from the boat at the moment but this is a job we need to do because our VHF reception is really poor. No doubt almost completely caused by me having to splice the cable after inadvertently cutting it!
--
Mark & Nicky Barter
S/V Nunky
SM 110


--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Re: Rigging and Terminals

 

Arno,

Agree completely including the preference for turnbuckles with Stainless with bronze inserts. ACMO offers these and ACMO is still my number one choice for a complete rigging kit because it is high quality and is always a perfect fit. Any other rigger will not have the manufacturer's most up-to-date specifications and will simply attempt to copy what you have. In the case of the Amel 54, the rigging specs changed 2 or 3 times during production. If a 54 is being re-rigged, the rigger making the rigging will use the same size wire which was originally installed, and that 54 will not have the benefit of the changed and upgraded specs.

Contact for ACMO:
Laetitia BOUDON <laetitia@...>
+(33) 3.81.35.70.86
www.acmo.fr


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Wed, Jun 23, 2021 at 12:03 PM Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote:
Dyform is not better. It has for the same diameter more strength but is also more expensive. Dyform is a way to shape the individual strands into a shape that packs them more dense compared to classic rigging.
So in the end it is a bit of a trade off. Given the fact that the standard Amel rig uses normal wire, I struggle to see the advantage for dyform on an Amel. High performance boats like to use is so they can use thinner stays and shrouds. It is still cheaper then rod-rigging, let alone composite rigging.

I'm not sure if terminals can be such a big difference unless they are China-made. What can be a difference are the bottle screws. There are Stainless versions, Bronze one and Stainless with bronze inserts. Personally I like the last ones as you get a nice lasting shine and a reliable thread connection.

Regards,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121


Re: VHF antennas

Scott SV Tengah
 

Mark,

I bought 43 meters of RG-8X and that was enough on my A54 to run new cable from:

(1) The vhf antenna at the top of the main all the way to the VHF headunit (NOT just the coupler at the mastbase inside the boat) 
(2) The ais antenna at the top of the mizzen down to just the coupler in the aft shower, at the mizzen mastbase.

I got mine from Davis RF in the US - cheapest I found for marine rated rg-8x. I can't imagine trying to squeeze thicker cable through the conduits, but I believe some others have tried and possibly even succeeded. The original A54 cable is much thinner RG-58, FYI.

Get real soldered PL-259 connectors and watch some youtube videos on how to do it. I rubber taped the connectors and then put 3M electrical tape over it. The PL-259 are not, by design, waterproof.

On Tue, Jun 22, 2021 at 8:50 PM Mark Barter <markbarter100@...> wrote:
If anybody has replaced their VHF cables could you tell me what lengths of cable were needed for the main and mizzen masts.

I am away from the boat at the moment but this is a job we need to do because our VHF reception is really poor. No doubt almost completely caused by me having to splice the cable after inadvertently cutting it!
--
Mark & Nicky Barter
S/V Nunky
SM 110


--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Re: Rigging and Terminals

Arno Luijten
 

Dyform is not better. It has for the same diameter more strength but is also more expensive. Dyform is a way to shape the individual strands into a shape that packs them more dense compared to classic rigging.
So in the end it is a bit of a trade off. Given the fact that the standard Amel rig uses normal wire, I struggle to see the advantage for dyform on an Amel. High performance boats like to use is so they can use thinner stays and shrouds. It is still cheaper then rod-rigging, let alone composite rigging.

I'm not sure if terminals can be such a big difference unless they are China-made. What can be a difference are the bottle screws. There are Stainless versions, Bronze one and Stainless with bronze inserts. Personally I like the last ones as you get a nice lasting shine and a reliable thread connection.

Regards,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121


Re: Rigging and Terminals

VICTOR MOLERO
 

Hello all.
I know that a lot has been written and discussed in this group about rigging and terminals, much more than what I feel myself prepared to understand, so please let me launch two quick questions, now that I am about to change my rigging...
- What terminals are best, ACMO or BSI? Amel uses ACMO, but I am being promised that BSI are superior...
- What wire is best, DYform or WDS? Amel uses WDS if I'm right, but DYform seems to be better. 
Thank you very much in advance for your recommendations...
Best.
Victor
Alendoy SM314


Re: Storage Hatch gaskets

 

Yes, I believe they will work on a SM, 54, or 55 but to be 100% sure order a small amount or a sample from SAV@...

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Fri, Jun 18, 2021 at 7:49 AM Randall Walker <sailingalbedo@...> wrote:
Hello Bill,
Do you think these seals on the 50 would be usable on my 54 ? I know some seals come in a roll and others are custom moulded. Thanks

Randall
A54#56
Grenada

On Thu, Jun 17, 2021 at 17:05 CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
Pat,

I really like what Amel is currently using on the Amel 50. It's the best thing I've seen. Photo attached. 

I am training a crew the week on a brand new 50. It is an amazing Amel.


Best,

CW Bill Rouse 
Amel Owners Yacht School
+1 832-380-4970 | brouse@...
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com 
Yacht School Calendar: www.preparetocastoff.blogspot.com/p/calendar.html


   

On Wed, Jun 16, 2021, 7:56 PM Patrick McAneny via groups.io <sailw32=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Bill ,Just want to double check the size of the gasket. I had a look at mine and they are 1" wide ,but where they are not depressed ,at the edges they appear to only be about 1/2" in height and in the center that bears the weight they are depressed down to about  a 1/4" ,maybe 3/8' . I just wanted to make sure that they might not have been 1/2 or 3/4" in height originally .
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Sent: Fri, Jun 11, 2021 4:57 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Storage Hatch gaskets

Pat,

They are "D Profile: and 25mm, or 1" I think the following will work for you:

image.png
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
+1 832-380-4970 | brouse@...
View My Training Calendar


On Fri, Jun 11, 2021 at 2:37 PM Patrick McAneny via groups.io <sailw32=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
I would like to replace the gaskets on all the storage hatches ,they are compressed and leaking somewhat. Does anyone know the dimensions and a source in the US. to buy them. I wonder if they have an adhesive backing or applied with contact cement, a backing would be less messy and easier.
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans

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