Date   

Re: Forward cabin leak

Alan Leslie
 

I think it comes from the hole for the security rope for the forward locker...your locker seals are not sealing.....
Ask me how I know this!
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: Forward cabin leak

Ralf Schroeder
 

Hello John,
 I had a problem on my Sharki, that sounds like yours.
 It was a tube for the cable from the windlass and navigation lights to the electronic board on the portside.
This tube wasn‘t completely closed with silicone.  And so, drops of rain or waves came into the same cupboard.

Best wishes
Ralf
Sharki Baghira #42

Am 04.07.2021 um 05:23 schrieb John Facci <john@...>:

I have slight moisture ingress into the top of the port cupboards in the forward cabin.
I don't think its the windows as the leak is forward (and uphill) of them. moisture is evident from open cupboard holding the circuit breakers  to the open shelf between the two sets of cupboards.
Has anyone had this issue before?

Regards
John SM 332
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Re: Anti fouling. Copper Coat versus Silicone

VICTOR MOLERO
 

Good advice, as always, Bill.
Thanks.
Victor


Forward cabin leak

John Facci
 

I have slight moisture ingress into the top of the port cupboards in the forward cabin.
I don't think its the windows as the leak is forward (and uphill) of them. moisture is evident from open cupboard holding the circuit breakers  to the open shelf between the two sets of cupboards.
Has anyone had this issue before?

Regards
John SM 332


Re: Air Conditioning issues

 

John,

It could be so many things. 

Let's try the most common cause of a short or ground fault.

Is there any sign of saltwater leaks around the Saltwater pump?
That may look like this inside the green circle, or possibly somewhere nearby because the slinger washer will throw salt water up to 50cm:
image.png

If there are signs of leak or rust, it may be possible that saltwater has entered the pump because the mechanical seal on the pump needs replacing. You might try using an ohmmeter to see if there is any continuity between the metal case and the load (brown) wire to the pump. Obviously with the breaker OFF.

This is what can happen, shorting out everything:
image.png

image.png

Good luck, like I said, it could be many different things.

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sat, Jul 3, 2021 at 11:31 AM John Clanton <clanton@...> wrote:
I must confess that I feel embarrassed to ask for help a second time in less than 8 hours, but there is no better place to go for direction.

I have been on shore power for the last few weeks as I have been completing deferred maintenance on the boat and dinghy.  I have had the air conditioning on because it makes me a more pleasant fellow when it gets hot or sticky outside.  Today, for the first time, I arrived back at the boat and it was more humid inside than outside.  Sometimes I have needed to turn off the entire Air Conditioning system, let it think its thoughts for a moment, then turn it back on and all is well.  Today, after leaving it off, and restarting, it did not come back to life.  

After a bit of investigation, it seems that there is no power getting to the big brain, the seawater pump or the compressor.  There is power to the three A/C units in the fore, aft, and mid cabin areas, and the fans and thermostats are working as usual.  The breaker for the Climma system seems to be tripped and will not reset.  It is as if the breaker itself is broken as it can be pushed back into position, but it doesn't stay, and there is no connection made in the brief period that it is pushed back into the normal position.  There are not lights or indicators on the display above the compressor.  It clearly isn't getting power.

I tried switching off shore power and starting the genset, but had the same results.  I tried turning off all AC power and restoring, but had the same results.

I have shoreside guests arriving on Wednesday, and am worried about getting the A/C system back on line before they get here.  Any thoughts, experiences, or suggestions would be appreciated.


Thank you,

John W. Clanton
S/V Devereux, A55, No. 65
sweating it out in Antibes, France


Re: fuel additives & tank cleaning

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

I had my fuel polished by a dock side filter operator. He circulated all the fuel though his truck mounted filters. He used three grades of filter, course, moderate and fine progressively removing sludge. I could not believe how much filth was in the fuel. Buckets of it. Recommend the system.

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

On 04 July 2021 at 00:39 John Clanton <clanton@...> wrote:

Thanks all for responses! Here is my plan and a couple of take aways from the responses. I would appreciate any contrary opinions or additional suggestions.

A special thanks to Billy for providing photos and location of the inspection hatch for the 55 fuel tank, this takes half the worry out of it for me.

Tomorrow I plan to open the inspection hatch and see what I can see. I would be surprised if it is clean based on what I have seen in the Racors the last two years. So I am wagering that I will need a professional tank cleaner.

There is a local vendor who will suck out all the fuel, clean the tank completely, polish the fuel while out of the tank, then put it back in. So I will use him unless my inspection suggests it is not needed.

Once clean, I will change out the Racor so I have a baseline for subsequent filter changes. Then, plan to use the Grotomar additive religiously. It has several quality endorsements from sailors, and based on the fact it is very difficult to find, it must be good.

In my unofficial research, the StarBrite treatment received a good number of positive mentions, and importantly, I see it often in the Med chandleries.

Once all clean and full, I plan on a three year visual tank inspection interval.

I will provide an update when the work is done.

Again, thanks to the group for all responses and suggestions.


John W. Clanton
S/V Devereux, A55, No.65
Antibes, France


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locked Re: Amel Yacht Owners Group

John Clanton
 

In my view, Bill leads the idea of independence in thought and experience. Please continue without change.

J


Disclaimer

The information contained in this communication from the sender is confidential. It is intended solely for use by the recipient and others authorized to receive it. If the reader of this message is not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any review, retransmission, dissemination, distribution, copying or other use of, or taking of any action in reliance upon this information is strictly prohibited.


Re: Anti fouling. Copper Coat versus Silicone

 

Victor,

Many of us have had experience with Silicone in the form of PropSpeed and with PropSpeed: 
  1. It is critical that it is installed correctly or it will not work. 
  2. If installed correctly it works well. 
  3. From the circle of people I know, there have been around 30% that had failures probably because of poor workmanship.
  4. It does not last too much longer than 2 years, but, of course, it is the propeller.
Some things that work well elsewhere, fail in the Caribbean. 
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sat, Jul 3, 2021 at 4:32 AM VICTOR MOLERO <victor.moleroxx@...> wrote:
Hello all.
I was planning to renew my antifouling with copper coat when I've been recommended the new silicon paints manufactured by renowned brands such as Hempel. I am hesitant as to what option to choose, considering a posible crossing from Europe to the Caribbean. Does anyone have experience with silicon antifouling? Any information comparing both paints?
Thanks in advance.
Victor
SM314 Alendoy


locked Amel Yacht Owners Group

 

All,

I am really proud to be a member of this group and very happy to be associated with each of you. Today marks my 16th year with the Amel Yacht Owners Group. There are plenty of members who will soon mark their 20th anniversary with our group. I believe that I speak for the vast majority in saying that the Amel Yacht Owners Group has made owning an Amel much more rewarding. I think it is extremely difficult to find a social media group without disruptive members and without drama caused by personal affronts. Thank all of you for making this what it is.  

Today I need to speak to you about the following, which is on our homepage. "Please refrain from criticism of persons or businesses in which you may have experienced unsatisfactory results, because it would be one-sided, without the ability of the other side to respond." Although I do not like to remind members, today I found myself in the unfortunate position of having to remind one member of the above. 

At 74-years old, I have certainly been around long enough to understand the frustration caused when my expectations are not met. As in most disagreements, the dispute between this member and the vendor has plenty of mitigating factors and not much is cut and dry. I am very saddened that this happened and wish that our fellow member was never disappointed because his expectations were not met. However, for as long as I own it, our group will not be the place to post these issues.

I am very thankful that many of you have given a lot to this group without asking anything in return. I trust that every member will continue to respect each other and our limited suggestions for posting.

Bill

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


Re: fuel additives & tank cleaning

Geo Uhrich <lingeouhr@...>
 

For those who are interested in learning about RCI Fuel systems, here is a link to a demonstration by Bob Fox, who is the person who set me up with my system.




On Fri, Jul 2, 2021 at 9:09 PM Geo Uhrich via groups.io <lingeouhr=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:
I will

On Fri, Jul 2, 2021 at 7:58 PM JB Duler <jbduler@...> wrote:
Geo,
That sounds great!
Please send me the details.
Best,
JB Duler

On Jul 2, 2021, at 13:47, Geo Uhrich <lingeouhr@...> wrote:

Hello Amel Owners,

For my last two boats I have installed RCI Fuel Purification units in my boats. They are installed before the Racor filters and use centrifugal force to clean the fuel. Dirty fuel drops to the holding area in the bottom and is removed with a purging valve. I also use the optional alarm which alerts you that the holding area is full.

 In my current boat, I also added a bypass system with a pump so that I can purify my fuel on board.

I have never had a problem with dirty fuel and I highly recommend this system for trouble free motoring.

If anyone is interested in finding out more just email me back. I am not affiliated with this company in any way.  However, I will not own a boat without it.

Geo

On Fri, Jul 2, 2021 at 2:32 PM Joerg Esdorn via groups.io <jhe1313=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

John, in my experience you will need to be flexible on what fuel additive to use.  The brands available in local shops vary wildly.  Having said that, I’ve seen the Starbrite additive in more places than other brands so I would get a good supply of that one.  


Joerg Esdorn
A55 Kincsem
on the way to Gibraltar 





--
John Bernard "JB" Duler
San Francisco
Meltem # 19, Western Med


Re: Parasailor on A54

Scott SV Tengah
 

Here's us setting it up for the third time. We're a bit smoother nowadays.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XJ8vjt2olb0&t=282s

--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Re: #attackedbywhales #newboat WE SOLD THE BOAT! Now what??? Sailing Ocean F... #attackedbywhales #newboat

Scott SV Tengah
 

One thing I really love about the ketches is that the individual sails are much smaller. In my three years and 25,000 miles so far, both the Genoa and Main electric furling systems have failed. The main necessitated manual outhaul furling (the harder half) and the Genoa required me to go forward to the bow at night and wrestle the Genoa down. 

There was some argument that the modern sail handling systems are now bulletproof. I am not sure about the improvements to the main furling system, given the motor is a heavy duty truck starting motor, but my Genoa furler is the newest generation and was less than a year old and still failed.

As a young, fit but not herculean couple, small individual sails gives us comfort for when the next failure happens. 

An aside is the fuel capacity. I really love the 900liters on our A54. When we had to do the 4848 nm Panama-Hawaii passage due to covid, we admittedly used little of that fuel because of our efficient solar/lithium system, the parasailor, code zero and a LOT of luck, but I would have felt nervous with less given that the trades were more than 1500nm away. That was at the start of covid and hopefully we don't experience that again, but even in the remote Tuamotus, it's nice to not have to think about when we can get fuel or have to carry it in jerry cans.

Finally, the mizzen could effectively replace your rudder, I believe. I'm sure a more skilled sailor could do something similar with just a main/Genoa, but it's just so damn easy to steer the boat with the mizzen.

The A50/A60 is VERY VERY nice inside and The Admiral fell in love when we saw it at the Annapolis show. It appropriately responds to the evolving market, but it seems we are no longer "the market" given our plans. I guess we're getting old. :)

--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Re: fuel additives & tank cleaning

Scott SV Tengah
 

On the A54, inspecting the tank couldn't be easier. There are two circular ports on the top of the tank. Remove them and you can see right to the bottom. Mine was pristine, almost looked brand new.

After so many stories of failed D3-110 motors, many related to fuel, I religiously filter ALL of my fuel and add BioBor. I used to use the Baja filter but it's slow - we spent 2-3 hours filling up in Colombia.

Now I use a big Mr. Funnel and I believe Practical Sailor did a test and found that it works just as well, if not better.

--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Air Conditioning issues

John Clanton
 

I must confess that I feel embarrassed to ask for help a second time in less than 8 hours, but there is no better place to go for direction.

I have been on shore power for the last few weeks as I have been completing deferred maintenance on the boat and dinghy.  I have had the air conditioning on because it makes me a more pleasant fellow when it gets hot or sticky outside.  Today, for the first time, I arrived back at the boat and it was more humid inside than outside.  Sometimes I have needed to turn off the entire Air Conditioning system, let it think its thoughts for a moment, then turn it back on and all is well.  Today, after leaving it off, and restarting, it did not come back to life.  

After a bit of investigation, it seems that there is no power getting to the big brain, the seawater pump or the compressor.  There is power to the three A/C units in the fore, aft, and mid cabin areas, and the fans and thermostats are working as usual.  The breaker for the Climma system seems to be tripped and will not reset.  It is as if the breaker itself is broken as it can be pushed back into position, but it doesn't stay, and there is no connection made in the brief period that it is pushed back into the normal position.  There are not lights or indicators on the display above the compressor.  It clearly isn't getting power.

I tried switching off shore power and starting the genset, but had the same results.  I tried turning off all AC power and restoring, but had the same results.

I have shoreside guests arriving on Wednesday, and am worried about getting the A/C system back on line before they get here.  Any thoughts, experiences, or suggestions would be appreciated.


Thank you,

John W. Clanton
S/V Devereux, A55, No. 65
sweating it out in Antibes, France


Re: Swivel or Shackle

Arno Luijten
 

I'm quite happy with my Mantus swivels. They are very beefy and of a clever design. I really like the way they attach to the anchor using a shackle giving the anchor freedom of lateral movement. I'm using the biggest size they offer in combination with a 35kg Spade anchor. Setting the anchor most of the time is almost like hitting a brick wall when backing up. That thing really grabs. The swivel works fine and is a big improvement over the WASI powerball which is a good idea with poor execution (the grub screws are stupid small and tend to seize up). The biggest problem with the Mantus swivels is they are fairly heavy so I needed to add some restraint to prevent it from damaging the gelcoat when stored at the bow (see enclosed picture).
On previous boats I used a KONG swivel and those are well build as well. I remember there is a video in youtube about testing these things and they performed well. The problem with those is you should put a ring between the anchor and the swivel to enable lateral movements without putting strain on the swivel for which it was not designed.

Regards,
Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121



Re: Parasailor on A54

Joerg Esdorn
 

speed is fun, Scott!   Thanks for the tip on chafe - I noticed that the windward sheet was not going straight over the roller but at an angle. I think I will need to adjust the pole height so there is no such angle.  

As regards the Tacker, yes it will ride up on the rolled up Genoa until it is stopped by the windward guy.  I have the guy on the electric winch and the sheet on the manual spinnaker winch.  I adjust the windward sheet so it is loaded as well which means the forestay is taking not all of the load.  


good luck!  


Joerg Esdorn


Re: Hello Maramu Owners and Genoa Swivel

Aras Grinius
 

My swivel seized cracked tangs.   I took it to my machinist and we duplicated it with a couple of improvements / a drain hole for the top and zirk fitting for bearing.
Aras #163 sharki 1988


On Thu, Jul 1, 2021, 2:10 PM CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
Maramu #202 has a Genoa Swivel that needs replacing. It has a 52mm foil. Amel has a SM swivel that they say is for a 52mm foil.

Has anyone installed a SM Genoa Swivel on a Maramu?

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


Re: fuel additives & tank cleaning

John Clanton
 

Thanks all for responses! Here is my plan and a couple of take aways from the responses. I would appreciate any contrary opinions or additional suggestions.

A special thanks to Billy for providing photos and location of the inspection hatch for the 55 fuel tank, this takes half the worry out of it for me.

Tomorrow I plan to open the inspection hatch and see what I can see. I would be surprised if it is clean based on what I have seen in the Racors the last two years. So I am wagering that I will need a professional tank cleaner.

There is a local vendor who will suck out all the fuel, clean the tank completely, polish the fuel while out of the tank, then put it back in. So I will use him unless my inspection suggests it is not needed.

Once clean, I will change out the Racor so I have a baseline for subsequent filter changes. Then, plan to use the Grotomar additive religiously. It has several quality endorsements from sailors, and based on the fact it is very difficult to find, it must be good.

In my unofficial research, the StarBrite treatment received a good number of positive mentions, and importantly, I see it often in the Med chandleries.

Once all clean and full, I plan on a three year visual tank inspection interval.

I will provide an update when the work is done.

Again, thanks to the group for all responses and suggestions.


John W. Clanton
S/V Devereux, A55, No.65
Antibes, France


Disclaimer

The information contained in this communication from the sender is confidential. It is intended solely for use by the recipient and others authorized to receive it. If the reader of this message is not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any review, retransmission, dissemination, distribution, copying or other use of, or taking of any action in reliance upon this information is strictly prohibited.


Re: Forestay replacement Maramu

Ian Park
 

Olivier,
I have often wondered whether it is worthwhile putting a grease Zerk fitting at the top of the foil to top up the grease?
As it appears on the deck in hot climates gravity must reduce the amount left at the top??
Ian
Ocean Hobo SN96
Isles of Scilly


Anti fouling. Copper Coat versus Silicone

VICTOR MOLERO
 

Hello all.
I was planning to renew my antifouling with copper coat when I've been recommended the new silicon paints manufactured by renowned brands such as Hempel. I am hesitant as to what option to choose, considering a posible crossing from Europe to the Caribbean. Does anyone have experience with silicon antifouling? Any information comparing both paints?
Thanks in advance.
Victor
SM314 Alendoy

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