Date   

Re: Running cables between Engine Room and Battery Compartment

Dean Gillies
 

Barry and Penny,
Wow, those are big cables!
im taking the easy route over the ceiling for my data cables.
best
Dean
SV Stella
A54-154


Re: Running cables between Engine Room and Battery Compartment

Dominique Sery
 

On Tue, Jul 13, 2021 at 01:11 AM, Dean Gillies wrote:
Dominique,
That's perfect thanks.  Do I need to remove all the ceiling panels in the galley and across to the chart table, or is there a trick?
Thanks
Dean
SV Stella
A54-154
Hello Dean,
i removed all the ceiling panels but you need to remove only the panels with lights. Under the panels (fixed with Velcro) there is plywood with holes for the lights.
Itis very easy to remove the ceiling panels (no tools), with your fingers. It’s the Amel passage for all the wires between the chart table and the battery locker to the electric panels, the helm and the engine room.
Dominique


Re: Running cables between Engine Room and Battery Compartment

Barry Connor
 

Hi Dean,
A small chisel and hammer, takes a few hours. What you see is what needs to be chiseled away, the tube into the engine room is full of foam. Once you have chiseled away the epoxy you can pull out the foam.
See below photo, have not fully filled back the epoxy.
Best
Barry and Penny
“SV Lady Penelope II”
AMEL 54.  #17
Le Marin Marina 
Martinique 



On Jul 13, 2021, at 08:04, Dominique Sery via groups.io <dominiquesery@...> wrote:

Hello Dean and Jamie, for the data cables between the battery compartment and the engine room, I followed the following path: mounted in the locker above the berth (towards the front), passage in the roof which communicates with the  roof above the staircase, retrieval of the wires above the galley behind the 230 v panel, passage in the cockpit locker (on port side) where there is a board to unscrew, access to the engine room arrives at the  top of the watermaker.  no hole to make.  I passed all of my small section cables by this way.
Dominique
Irko A54#16


Re: Running cables between Engine Room and Battery Compartment

Dean Gillies
 

Hi Jamie,
I don't need to run DC power cables, so I prefer Dominique's suggested Routing to busting out that epoxy!!
Best regards
Dean
SV Stella
A54-154


Re: Running cables between Engine Room and Battery Compartment

Dean Gillies
 

Dominique,
That's perfect thanks.  Do I need to remove all the ceiling panels in the galley and across to the chart table, or is there a trick?
Thanks
Dean
SV Stella
A54-154


Re: Running cables between Engine Room and Battery Compartment

Dominique Sery
 

And i did not change the DC wires. No hole.


Re: Running cables between Engine Room and Battery Compartment

Dominique Sery
 

Hello Dean and Jamie, for the data cables between the battery compartment and the engine room, I followed the following path: mounted in the locker above the berth (towards the front), passage in the roof which communicates with the  roof above the staircase, retrieval of the wires above the galley behind the 230 v panel, passage in the cockpit locker (on port side) where there is a board to unscrew, access to the engine room arrives at the  top of the watermaker.  no hole to make.  I passed all of my small section cables by this way.
Dominique
Irko A54#16


Re: Running cables between Engine Room and Battery Compartment

Jamie Wendell
 

Dean, I faced the same dilemma. The only answer is that you have to break out the epoxy seal and then replace when you are complete.
I saw no other way to route big battery cables but as you show.
Sorry - I wish I could tell you otherwise.
Jamie
Phantom, A54 #44


Running cables between Engine Room and Battery Compartment

Dean Gillies
 

Hi Brains Trust,
I'm back on board after almost two years!
Starting the install of my new LFP system and I need to run some new cables (Data/signal only) between the batteries and the engine room. I know that this has been a difficult step for others. 

I would love to hear some advice on ways to do that. Is there an alternative route to following the DC power cables under the floor level? (Distance of run is not a problem).

If I have to follow the existing DC cable route, any advice on how to do this without damaging existing cables?

Picture of potted DC cables under the floor is attached.

Thanks
Dean Gillies
SV Stella
A54-154



A54 service alternator stoped working #ZOOM

Gregory Dmitriev
 

Hi all,
Service alternator A54 stoped working in the middle of motoring passage.

Any ideas what can happen?

thx

Greg


Re: AC pump form Super Maramu

Craig Briggs
 

And our March pump on the refrigeration just failed at 21 years and on the A/C is at 18 years. (Both units are Northern Lights Technicold.)
--
SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL


Re: AC pump form Super Maramu

Ian Townsend
 

For what it’s worth, our March pump is going on four years, powering 3x10K BTU AC units in series. 

Ian & Margaret
Loca Lola II
SM153

On Jul 11, 2021, at 1:00 AM, eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:



 

Our Clapeda AC pump finally bit the dust. Some time ago it was suggested that the March AC-5C-MD 230 volt was a good substitute.

I do have that one on board. However, it has open windings, it has a lower output than the Calpeda and is not as robust.

I will install it temporarily.

Are there any other substitutes that are a little friendlier to salt water and are a better pump than the March.

I did find a Calpeda model BCM22/1/A-R. It will work but it is really overkill for this system.

Any other suggestions?

 

Does anyone know if Amel still stocks the original AMFA bilge pump? I am now working on my rebuilt spare, and I would like to have a spare or some other good bilge pump.

The AMFA pump is excellent pump and I even have found pieces of cable ties in it.

Any ideas or suggestions?

 

Fair Winds,

Eric

SM 376 Kimberlite


Re: AC pump form Super Maramu

Mark Erdos
 

Hi Eric,

 

I think I was one of the first to post about the March pumps. They were recommended to me by Coastal Climate Control (the US dealer for Calpeda and Climma) when we sailed the Chesapeake Bay in 2015 as a lower cost alternative to Calpeda pumps. And, I agree they are not as robust.

 

My March pump is now 6 years old and has no issues (the first pump shipped was defective and failed within 3 months. They replaced it). There is some corrosion on the non-stainless steel housing screws. I hit them with some Corrosion-X once in a while. Otherwise I am happy.

 

I also like the fact the March pumps have no metal in contact with saltwater. I have always questioned Amel’s use of the Calpeda pumps which is both grounded and connected to the ship’s bonding system. I viewed this as weak point but will readily admit I don’t know enough about it to comment further.  

 

BTW, doesn’t the Calpeda pump also have open windings? It has been a long time but if I recalled correctly the end is open where you have to turn the screw if it gets stuck.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of eric freedman
Sent: Saturday, July 10, 2021 7:58 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io; kimberlite
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] AC pump form Super Maramu

 

 

Our Clapeda AC pump finally bit the dust. Some time ago it was suggested that the March AC-5C-MD 230 volt was a good substitute.

I do have that one on board. However, it has open windings, it has a lower output than the Calpeda and is not as robust.

I will install it temporarily.

Are there any other substitutes that are a little friendlier to salt water and are a better pump than the March.

I did find a Calpeda model BCM22/1/A-R. It will work but it is really overkill for this system.

Any other suggestions?

 

Does anyone know if Amel still stocks the original AMFA bilge pump? I am now working on my rebuilt spare, and I would like to have a spare or some other good bilge pump.

The AMFA pump is excellent pump and I even have found pieces of cable ties in it.

Any ideas or suggestions?

 

Fair Winds,

Eric

SM 376 Kimberlite


Re: Again a question about yacht insurance

Jeroen Jeltes
 

hallo Arno,  could you please provide me with the Dutch insurer.  I am very interested.


Re: Change seacock on a sharki

INUS - BUSCH
 

Mark, Olivier, Gregory, Johannes, Bill and Gerhard,

thank you all for your contribution, very helpful. Finally it turned out to be an easy job: Remove the old one and put in a new one. The trick is to use an anaerobic sealant, before one has to clean the surfaces very carefully eg finally with acetone. Applying the sealant and let it cure overnight, than one can fix the tubes. But it only works for metal seacocks. This s the sealant that was used:

Fair winds
Dieter
Fal-lera Sharki #135, Sardenia



Am 01.07.2021 um 10:50 schrieb INUS - BUSCH <mail@...>:

Dear forum,

on my Sharki the seacock of the toilet-out by the time has become harder and harder to open, now it is stuck in the closed position.
From the foto it seems possible to remove the whole valve by unscrewing it from the GRP reinforced shaft. Is this the right way? And is it possible without destroying the shaft? It would be great if somebody who has undertaken this job can give me an advice how to change this seacock.

All the best
Dieter
SV Fal-lera, Sharki #135


Mainsail batten specs Amel 54

Roque
 

To all

I want to replace the mainsail battens.

I have checked previous forum threads and found three different dimensions, all for SM, and fiberglass made:  

                                20mm x 6 or 7 mm (#40407)
                                1 x  ¼  inch  (#30106),

                                1 ¼ x 3/16 inch (#5088)

Does any A54 owner happen to have the correct measures and maybe the material they are made of? Is it even or gets thinner towards the upper end?  I have the OEM Hydranet main sail.

 

Thank you

Roque

Attika A54 #117

Paraty- Brazil

 


Re: lip seal behind the prop of the bow thruster facing towards the water or toward the oil?

Bill Kinney
 

The side with the spring needs to be the oil side.

https://fetchinketch.net/boat-projects/lipseals/

 


lip seal behind the prop of the bow thruster facing towards the water or toward the oil?

Willem Kroes
 

Please giive me the answer. It came of facing the water. But oil was a bit milky.

Willem Kroes
SM2K # 351
Malta


Re: AC pump form Super Maramu

Jose Alegria
 

Eric

Model TM50

See bellow

Kindest regards




Jose Alegria
Amel55 #03-MERIT
+351918663037
Josealegr@...



No dia 12/07/2021, às 12:16, Ceriolim via groups.io <ceriolim@...> escreveu:

Hi Eric.
The manifacturer of the origial pomp is TF Marine  www.tfmarine.it  .  They produce the original pomp and they have spare parts for it.
Regards


Re: AC pump form Super Maramu

Ceriolim
 

Hi Eric.
The manifacturer of the origial pomp is TF Marine  www.tfmarine.it  .  They produce the original pomp and they have spare parts for it.
Regards

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