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Re: Shaft alternator on Santorin don’t work
Ian Park
Stefanie
Your English is very good. My Santorin is 1994, no 96. The main thing that should happen when you turn the key (as well as the green light turning on) is an instant decrease in the propellor shaft revolutions. This is caused by the alternator producing resistance by producing electricity. No decrease, no electricity. I am not an alternator specialist, but this must mean the that there is a problem with the actuating circuit from the key. Has the alternator been working before this? Ian Ocean Hobo SN 96.
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Re: Intermittent starting issue
Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
Hi Pat, was there a birthday in your family recently? Happy birthday. As to contacts. I have said this a number of times before. The sea environment is brutal and unless we protect our contacts we will inevitably get failures. Corrosion, like rust, never sleeps. I use CRC 556 marine. WD 40 is a first cousin. Spray all electrical connections regularly, say once every six months. It is a whole lot easier than hunting down failed connections. I spray behind all instruments and switch panels. Over all alternators and starter motors and associated connections. Over and INTO (caps deliberate) the water pump for the air con. Mounted so low it is in a very vulnerable position. I also go all round the engine room and spray all metal parts and particularly hose clamps. One Amel friend said to me on looking into my engine room. How come you don't have rust like mine. I smiled and shook my can of CRC Caution, be sure to only use product that is rated for electrical use. One person I know once sprayed the back of his radios with a product including a longer lasting lubricant additive. He was about to start an ocean race and lost the use of his radios. Kind Regards Danny SM 299 Ocean Pearl
On 15 July 2021 at 01:40 "Patrick McAneny via groups.io" <sailw32@...> wrote:
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Shaft alternator on Santorin don’t work
ste.dente
Dear Amelians, I hope some of you can help me solving my problem. My 1994 Santorin is, as usual, equipped with a shaft alternator. Last year I made a check of the alternator because it didn’t work correctly. The check was ok : the alternator worked normally “ at the bank”. I put it in place again. But now, when I turn the key in the galley in order to activate it, only the red lamp light on but the propeller continues to turn free and the green lamp doesn’t light up. I really hope you can understand my poor English. Thanks everybody for the attention. Fair wind
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Re: Intermittent starting issue
Patrick McAneny
Bill ,Are all those relays located in the black box attached to the engine? Do relays work intermittently ,or are they either good or bad ? I wish I better understood the complexities of the electrical systems on the boat. I could wire a house ,no problem ,but looking at a electrical schematic and relating that to the actually wiring ,leaves me scratching a bald spot on my head.
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans
-----Original Message-----
From: CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io> Sent: Wed, Jul 14, 2021 1:42 pm Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Intermittent starting issue Mark,
I believe if that works on your Amel, the Negative Solenoid is defeated, bypassed, or not installed.
The negative solenoid closes by the key action when the key is moved to "start."
I think it might be possible to connect a remote starter switch to the starter relay which controls both the starter solenoid and the negative solenoid.
On Wed, Jul 14, 2021 at 12:32 PM Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:
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Re: Intermittent starting issue
Patrick McAneny
Mark, Generally I just continued to try starting it ,until it did,sometimes I turned the main switches on and off ,thinking it may be a bad contact and it started sometimes ,but that could be coincidental . I am sure it is not the starter ,solenoid or battery,as they are all new. I will take your advice and buy a remote starter. Thanks, Pat
SM Shenanigans
-----Original Message-----
From: Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Sent: Wed, Jul 14, 2021 1:44 pm Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Intermittent starting issue Pat,
Here’s a
thought. When the engine doesn’t crank, use a remote starter switch to bypass
the panel. This connects to the solenoid on the starter (the small terminal
marked “s” and the pos battery terminal – thick red cable). This will completely
bypass the panel at the helm.
This will help isolate your issue. If the engine cranks, you’ll know the issue is in the panel or harness (probably a poor connection). If it doesn’t crank it is not the panel. To anyone else
reading this, this item should be in your spare parts. Some people will use and
ruin a screwdriver to do the same thing but this is much safer.
 With best
regards,
Mark
Skipper
Sailing Vessel
- Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
Currently
cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia
www.creampuff.us
From:
main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On
Behalf Of Patrick McAneny via groups.io
Sent: Wednesday, July 14, 2021 3:40 AM To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Intermittent starting issue For a couple of years I have had an issue ,where I turn the
key and nothing happens, or the blower may come on and then turning the key
further results in the blower going off. It seems to be a condition where there
is an electrical contact ,but when additional load is required ,the contact is
broken. I can go months without this occurring , but it does, and I need to
resolve it ,before it gets me into trouble. I have a new starter battery and
starter ,so that is not the issue. I have in the past turned the battery
switches off and on repeatedly and then been able to start the engine ,but not
always. We met up with Delos in the Caribbean a few times and I know
Brian disassembled his switches to clean the contacts.But I did not ask if he
was having starting issues , I guess I assumed he did. Before I go to the
trouble of doing that, I was wondering if other owners have had such an issue
and cleaned their switches . Is there other possible causes I should look at
first. It would not be easy to get the pins out of the handles , and disconnect
all the cables in order to disassemble the switches ,so I don't want to do it
if it has never been an issue before, I have never heard anyone in all these years
mention a problem with the switch contacts.
Thanks, Pat SM Shenanigans
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Re: Intermittent starting issue
Bill, Good point. I guess the key would need to be in the start position or the connection made to the starter relay.
With best regards,
Mark
Skipper Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275 Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia www.creampuff.us
From:
main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On
Behalf Of CW Bill Rouse
Mark,
I believe if that works on your Amel, the Negative Solenoid is defeated, bypassed, or not installed.
The negative solenoid closes by the key action when the key is moved to "start."
I think it might be possible to connect a remote starter switch to the starter relay which controls both the starter solenoid and the negative solenoid.
On Wed, Jul 14, 2021 at 12:32 PM Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:
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Re: Intermittent starting issue
Mark, I believe if that works on your Amel, the Negative Solenoid is defeated, bypassed, or not installed. The negative solenoid closes by the key action when the key is moved to "start." I think it might be possible to connect a remote starter switch to the starter relay which controls both the starter solenoid and the negative solenoid.
On Wed, Jul 14, 2021 at 12:32 PM Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:
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Re: Intermittent starting issue
Pat,
Here’s a
thought. When the engine doesn’t crank, use a remote starter switch to bypass
the panel. This connects to the solenoid on the starter (the small terminal
marked “s” and the pos battery terminal – thick red cable). This will completely
bypass the panel at the helm.
To anyone else reading this, this item should be in your spare parts. Some people will use and ruin a screwdriver to do the same thing but this is much safer.
With best regards,
Mark
Skipper Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275 Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia www.creampuff.us
From:
main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On
Behalf Of Patrick McAneny via groups.io
For a couple of years I have had an issue ,where I turn the
key and nothing happens, or the blower may come on and then turning the key
further results in the blower going off. It seems to be a condition where there
is an electrical contact ,but when additional load is required ,the contact is
broken. I can go months without this occurring , but it does, and I need to
resolve it ,before it gets me into trouble. I have a new starter battery and
starter ,so that is not the issue. I have in the past turned the battery
switches off and on repeatedly and then been able to start the engine ,but not
always. We met up with Delos in the Caribbean a few times and I know
Brian disassembled his switches to clean the contacts.But I did not ask if he
was having starting issues , I guess I assumed he did. Before I go to the
trouble of doing that, I was wondering if other owners have had such an issue
and cleaned their switches . Is there other possible causes I should look at
first. It would not be easy to get the pins out of the handles , and disconnect
all the cables in order to disassemble the switches ,so I don't want to do it
if it has never been an issue before, I have never heard anyone in all these years
mention a problem with the switch contacts.
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Re: Intermittent starting issue
Pat,
How is it resolved. Do you just try again and it works, or what?
With best regards,
Mark
Skipper Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275 Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia www.creampuff.us
From:
main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On
Behalf Of Patrick McAneny via groups.io
For a couple of years I have had an issue ,where I turn the
key and nothing happens, or the blower may come on and then turning the key
further results in the blower going off. It seems to be a condition where there
is an electrical contact ,but when additional load is required ,the contact is
broken. I can go months without this occurring , but it does, and I need to
resolve it ,before it gets me into trouble. I have a new starter battery and
starter ,so that is not the issue. I have in the past turned the battery
switches off and on repeatedly and then been able to start the engine ,but not
always. We met up with Delos in the Caribbean a few times and I know
Brian disassembled his switches to clean the contacts.But I did not ask if he
was having starting issues , I guess I assumed he did. Before I go to the
trouble of doing that, I was wondering if other owners have had such an issue
and cleaned their switches . Is there other possible causes I should look at
first. It would not be easy to get the pins out of the handles , and disconnect
all the cables in order to disassemble the switches ,so I don't want to do it
if it has never been an issue before, I have never heard anyone in all these
years mention a problem with the switch contacts.
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Re: Intermittent starting issue
Patrick McAneny
Bill, Sometimes the blower does not come on ,but more often it does come on ,however when I turn the key further to engage the starter ,nothing happens and the blower shuts off as well. That is why I said it seems that there may be enough contact to power the blower ,but when more load (starter) is engaged the electrical contact is broken . Thanks , Pat
SM Shenanigans
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Kinney <cruisingconsulting@...> To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Sent: Wed, Jul 14, 2021 10:22 am Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Intermittent starting issue Pat,
Intermittent failures can be such… fun. If I understand correctly, when you have this issue with starting, the blowers do not run as well. That narrows down the likely causes quite a bit. The key switch, or the wiring around it would be my prime suspect, although it could be other things too. 12V power comes from the engine, up to the key switch. When the switch is “ON” the power is sent back to the engine, and to the relays that turn on the blowers. If the blowers and the starter are showing common failure, then the fault must be before the wires divide on the positive side, or maybe after they come together on the negative side back to the battery. Another place to look is the isolating relay in the ground wire. If that is intermittent in operation, or has bad contacts, to could interrupt the circuit on the return side. I think this is unlikely, because the blower negative return is connected on the battery side of this. Other than those two, its a matter of pulling and cleaning connections to be sure contact is good. Key switches on both Volvo and Yanmar panels are not 100% waterproof, maybe a bit less so with the key left in. A drop or two of salt water inside, and things can get unreliable. I have never disassembled one to clean it, although I have replaced them. Bill Kinney SM Harmonie Brunswick, GA, USA
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Re: Intermittent starting issue
Bill Kinney
Pat,
Intermittent failures can be such… fun. If I understand correctly, when you have this issue with starting, the blowers do not run as well. That narrows down the likely causes quite a bit. The key switch, or the wiring around it would be my prime suspect, although it could be other things too. 12V power comes from the engine, up to the key switch. When the switch is “ON” the power is sent back to the engine, and to the relays that turn on the blowers. If the blowers and the starter are showing common failure, then the fault must be before the wires divide on the positive side, or maybe after they come together on the negative side back to the battery. Another place to look is the isolating relay in the ground wire. If that is intermittent in operation, or has bad contacts, to could interrupt the circuit on the return side. I think this is unlikely, because the blower negative return is connected on the battery side of this. Other than those two, its a matter of pulling and cleaning connections to be sure contact is good. Key switches on both Volvo and Yanmar panels are not 100% waterproof, maybe a bit less so with the key left in. A drop or two of salt water inside, and things can get unreliable. I have never disassembled one to clean it, although I have replaced them. Bill Kinney SM Harmonie Brunswick, GA, USA
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Intermittent starting issue
Patrick McAneny
For a couple of years I have had an issue ,where I turn the key and nothing happens, or the blower may come on and then turning the key further results in the blower going off. It seems to be a condition where there is an electrical contact ,but when additional load is required ,the contact is broken. I can go months without this occurring , but it does, and I need to resolve it ,before it gets me into trouble. I have a new starter battery and starter ,so that is not the issue. I have in the past turned the battery switches off and on repeatedly and then been able to start the engine ,but not always. We met up with Delos in the Caribbean a few times and I know Brian disassembled his switches to clean the contacts.But I did not ask if he was having starting issues , I guess I assumed he did. Before I go to the trouble of doing that, I was wondering if other owners have had such an issue and cleaned their switches . Is there other possible causes I should look at first. It would not be easy to get the pins out of the handles , and disconnect all the cables in order to disassemble the switches ,so I don't want to do it if it has never been an issue before, I have never heard anyone in all these years mention a problem with the switch contacts.
Thanks, Pat SM Shenanigans
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Re: A54 service alternator stoped working
#ZOOM
Gregory Dmitriev
Hi guys,
the issue resolved. It was 10amp fuse on the positive poll of the alternator. thanks to everybody.
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Re: Running cables between Engine Room and Battery Compartment
Hi Brains Trust, best regards
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Re: Running cables between Engine Room and Battery Compartment
Dominique Sery
Bill,
Yes, the way is very easy from the galley locker (behind the 230 v panel) to the engine room. You only need to remove a plywood in the cockpit locker (4 screws) Dominique A54#16 Envoyé de mon iPhone
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Re: Running cables between Engine Room and Battery Compartment
To run the cables from the ceiling to the engine compartment you route them via the cabinet that holds the steering rack. From there there is a hole down into the cavity behind the watermaker panel (for most A54s). So you remove this panel just enough to reach behind it. Next you can route the cables along the same path as where the blue watermaker tube is situated. There is plenty capacity for more cables. I added about a dozen or so. The most challenging part is behind the ceiling to the cover in the passageway. You don’t remove all ceiling panels as only a few hide a hole to access the cavity behind it. A tool to pull cables through (?) is usefull.
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Re: Running cables between Engine Room and Battery Compartment
Dominique, That is the best way for any cable except the large battery cables. One note you can do is once, inside the cabinet above the galley sink, I believe that you can follow the route of the 220-volt wiring from the main 220-volt panel to the engine room. I think that this may be a little easier. Bill
On Tue, Jul 13, 2021 at 7:04 AM Dominique Sery via groups.io <dominiquesery=me.com@groups.io> wrote: Hello Dean and Jamie, for the data cables between the battery compartment and the engine room, I followed the following path: mounted in the locker above the berth (towards the front), passage in the roof which communicates with the roof above the staircase, retrieval of the wires above the galley behind the 230 v panel, passage in the cockpit locker (on port side) where there is a board to unscrew, access to the engine room arrives at the top of the watermaker. no hole to make. I passed all of my small section cables by this way.
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Re: A54 service alternator stoped working
#ZOOM
It could be a lot of things. If the alternator comes on (Self-Excites) when you quickly raise the RPM to about 1500, it is the Excite circuit and possibly the relay or its connections. This relay activates when the 12-volt ignition circuit is ON. The 12-volt ignition closes a switch inside the relay that sends 24-volts to excite the alternator. This is a very common relay used in many things including autos. Most of the time failures are loose or corroded wiring. The schematic below was posted here some time ago by Arno Luijten.  
On Tue, Jul 13, 2021 at 4:11 AM Gregory Dmitriev <41greg.marine@...> wrote: Hi all,
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Re: Running cables between Engine Room and Battery Compartment
Barry and Penny,
Wow, those are big cables! im taking the easy route over the ceiling for my data cables. best Dean SV Stella A54-154
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Re: Running cables between Engine Room and Battery Compartment
Dominique Sery
On Tue, Jul 13, 2021 at 01:11 AM, Dean Gillies wrote:
Dominique,Hello Dean, i removed all the ceiling panels but you need to remove only the panels with lights. Under the panels (fixed with Velcro) there is plywood with holes for the lights. Itis very easy to remove the ceiling panels (no tools), with your fingers. It’s the Amel passage for all the wires between the chart table and the battery locker to the electric panels, the helm and the engine room. Dominique
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