Date   

Re: Bow thruster does not work in one direction

Mohammad Shirloo
 

Agreed. Although with practice it is possible to back an Amel without a bowthruster, in tight marinas with cross wind, it is not wise. In The Med, I consider the bowthruster,  a safety item that should not be down for long.


From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of CW Bill Rouse via groups.io <brouse@...>
Sent: Friday, July 16, 2021 6:03:32 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Bow thruster does not work in one direction
 
The fact that a SidePower dealer in Croatia had 2 solenoids in stock should be a sign to all SidePower owners that it is a really good thing to have one of these available to replace when the original is 8-10 years old.

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Fri, Jul 16, 2021 at 10:54 AM Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...> wrote:
Update. The cleaning and service of the main solenoid was only good for a few uses. It stopped working again. I took apart again and the carbon buildup was back. I tried leveling the contacts by using a dermal abbrasive blade, but found that there was no contact left at two of the contact points. I found the Sidepower dealer in Croatia, he had two of the solenoids in stock. Installed new one 2 days later and all functioning well.


Re: Bow thruster does not work in one direction

 

The fact that a SidePower dealer in Croatia had 2 solenoids in stock should be a sign to all SidePower owners that it is a really good thing to have one of these available to replace when the original is 8-10 years old.

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Fri, Jul 16, 2021 at 10:54 AM Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...> wrote:
Update. The cleaning and service of the main solenoid was only good for a few uses. It stopped working again. I took apart again and the carbon buildup was back. I tried leveling the contacts by using a dermal abbrasive blade, but found that there was no contact left at two of the contact points. I found the Sidepower dealer in Croatia, he had two of the solenoids in stock. Installed new one 2 days later and all functioning well.


Re: Bow thruster does not work in one direction

Mohammad Shirloo
 

Update. The cleaning and service of the main solenoid was only good for a few uses. It stopped working again. I took apart again and the carbon buildup was back. I tried leveling the contacts by using a dermal abbrasive blade, but found that there was no contact left at two of the contact points. I found the Sidepower dealer in Croatia, he had two of the solenoids in stock. Installed new one 2 days later and all functioning well.


Re: Spinnaker pole strut mast fitting ball joint replacement?

Kevin Schmit
 

Here’s a picture of the finished product.  Still needs a final “fit&finish”.


--
Kevin & Kristen Schmit
KIANA
SM #362


Re: Spinnaker pole strut mast fitting ball joint replacement?

Kevin Schmit
 


--
Kevin & Kristen Schmit
KIANA
SM #362


Re: Mastervolt Alpha High-Output Alternator Temperature when charging LiFePO4

Scott SV Tengah
 

I attached the Mastervolt BATTERY temperature sensor to the outer casing of the MV110 amp alternator and wired it to the Alpha Pro II alternator temperature sensor input. Mastervolt techs said this is ok. While this may not be inside, I also seem to remember that the MV software sets the cutoff temperature for the alternator MUCH higher than 115C. 

I have had this setup for over 2 years with my lifepo4 setup and have definitely run it for 2-3+ hours at max output with no problems. Of course by saying that, my alternator will fail tomorrow. :)

On Thu, Jul 15, 2021 at 2:24 AM Dominique Sery via groups.io <dominiquesery=me.com@groups.io> wrote:

Hello Dean, the Mastervolt alternator temperature is 115° C after one one hour at 95 A and stay at 115°.

I put an alternator temperature sensor but it does not work very well because i put it 
on B+ output where the temperature rise 60° C. I can’t put the sensor at the warmest point. I mesured the inside temperature at 115.

All mesures with a Fluke infrared thermometer.
Dominique


--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Re: wheel removal

Slavko Despotovic
 

Hi Eric,

tool I used to remove wheel.

regards.
--
Slavko
SM 2000
#279 Bonne Anse in Portoroz


Re: wheel removal

Patrick McAneny
 

Eric ,My center wheel plate was made of aluminum and came off easily, the wheel itself took a lot of pressure to remove.
Pat
SM Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: eric freedman <kimberlite@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Sent: Thu, Jul 15, 2021 3:37 am
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] wheel removal

 
I am planning to take the wheel,  the  main furling gearbox, and the outhaul gearbox off of Kimberlite and have them powder coated . Then the wheel will have new leather installed. The Amel plate in the center of the wheel plate is not cooperating. I believe the plate is stainless and the wheel is aluminum , I think galvanic corrosion is my problem.
Beside removing the 2 screws from the Amel plate in the center of the wheel, is there some trick to remove the plate?.
Fair Winds,
Eric
Sm 376 Kimberlite


Re: Mastervolt Alpha High-Output Alternator Temperature when charging LiFePO4

Dominique Sery
 

Hello Dean, the Mastervolt alternator temperature is 115° C after one one hour at 95 A and stay at 115°.

I put an alternator temperature sensor but it does not work very well because i put it 
on B+ output where the temperature rise 60° C. I can’t put the sensor at the warmest point. I mesured the inside temperature at 115.

All mesures with a Fluke infrared thermometer.
Dominique


Re: wheel removal

Alan Grayson
 

Mine had nothing except the 2 screws holding it on but still needed a small pick to pry under the edges to remove it.
Alan Grayson
SM 406 Ora Pai
Ft Lauderdale


From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of eric freedman <kimberlite@...>
Sent: Thursday, July 15, 2021 3:37:01 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] wheel removal
 

 

I am planning to take the wheel,  the  main furling gearbox, and the outhaul gearbox off of Kimberlite and have them powder coated . Then the wheel will have new leather installed. The Amel plate in the center of the wheel plate is not cooperating. I believe the plate is stainless and the wheel is aluminum , I think galvanic corrosion is my problem.

Beside removing the 2 screws from the Amel plate in the center of the wheel, is there some trick to remove the plate?.

Fair Winds,

Eric

Sm 376 Kimberlite


wheel removal

Eric Freedman
 

 

I am planning to take the wheel,  the  main furling gearbox, and the outhaul gearbox off of Kimberlite and have them powder coated . Then the wheel will have new leather installed. The Amel plate in the center of the wheel plate is not cooperating. I believe the plate is stainless and the wheel is aluminum , I think galvanic corrosion is my problem.

Beside removing the 2 screws from the Amel plate in the center of the wheel, is there some trick to remove the plate?.

Fair Winds,

Eric

Sm 376 Kimberlite


Re: Spinnaker pole strut mast fitting ball joint replacement?

Kevin Schmit
 

FYI,

 

Maude got back to me last week with a replacement.  It appears that Amel has switched from a plastic to an aluminum ball joint.  I’m going to attempt to fabricate my own on a lathe using Natural HDPE rod.  I’ll share with the group how it “turns” (ha-ha pun…) out.

 

Regards,

 

Kevin Schmit

SM #362

Portsmouth, NH

 

 

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

 


--
Kevin & Kristen Schmit
KIANA
SM #362


Re: Intermittent starting issue

Eric Freedman
 

Hi Bob,

The wiring diagram of the “B” panel is in the back of the parts manual.

Fair Winds,

Eric

Sm 376 Kimberlite

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of rossirossix4
Sent: Wednesday, July 14, 2021 5:17 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Intermittent starting issue

 

Agree with Danny as a first intervention and prevention.  We very occasionally squirt Corrosion-X right into the starter key hole and ditto for the battery switches, etc.  Worth doing first and no downside.  BTW we also squirt that crazy Yanmar electrical connection plug--the one with a bazillion wires--I'd love to see someone publish a diagram of that thing.
Bob-- KAIMI SM429


Re: Intermittent starting issue

rossirossix4
 

Agree with Danny as a first intervention and prevention.  We very occasionally squirt Corrosion-X right into the starter key hole and ditto for the battery switches, etc.  Worth doing first and no downside.  BTW we also squirt that crazy Yanmar electrical connection plug--the one with a bazillion wires--I'd love to see someone publish a diagram of that thing.
Bob-- KAIMI SM429


Re: Intermittent starting issue

Patrick McAneny
 

Danny, That is good advise, and I have not done that nearly enough. I will start to make that part of my routine . Yes , it is Diane's birthday ,leaving for dinner in a bit. She just told me Yvonne texted  a Happy Birthday wish on July 14 your time ,so was the first ,as we are a day behind. Saw your birthday pics last week on F/B , your looking fit.
Thanks for the tip.
Pat
SM Shenanigans
Sassafras River, Md.


-----Original Message-----
From: Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Sent: Wed, Jul 14, 2021 5:29 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Intermittent starting issue

Hi Pat, was there a birthday in your family recently? Happy birthday.
As to contacts. I have said this a number of times before. The sea environment is brutal and unless we protect our contacts we will inevitably get failures. Corrosion, like rust, never sleeps. I use CRC 556 marine. WD 40 is a first cousin. Spray all electrical connections regularly, say once every six months. It is a whole lot easier than hunting down failed connections. I spray behind all instruments and switch panels. Over all alternators and starter motors and associated connections. Over and INTO (caps deliberate) the water pump for the air con. Mounted so low it is in a very vulnerable position. I also go all round the engine room and spray all metal parts and particularly hose clamps.
One Amel friend said to me on looking into my engine room. How come you don't have rust like mine. I smiled and shook my can of CRC
Caution, be sure to only use product that is rated for electrical use. One person I know once sprayed the back of his radios with a product  including a longer lasting lubricant additive. He was about to start an ocean race and lost the use of his radios.
Kind Regards
Danny
SM 299
Ocean Pearl
On 15 July 2021 at 01:40 "Patrick McAneny via groups.io" <sailw32@...> wrote:

For a couple of years I have had an issue ,where I turn the key and nothing happens, or the blower may come on and then turning the key further results in the blower going off. It seems to be a condition where there is an electrical contact ,but when additional load is required ,the contact is broken. I can go months without this occurring , but it does, and I need to resolve it ,before it gets me into trouble. I have a new starter battery and starter ,so that is not the issue. I have in the past turned the battery switches off and on repeatedly and then been able to start the engine ,but not always. We met up with Delos in the Caribbean  a few times and I know Brian disassembled his switches to clean the contacts.But I did not ask if he was having starting issues , I guess I assumed he did. Before I go to the trouble of doing that, I was wondering if other owners have had such an issue and cleaned their switches . Is there other possible causes I should look at first. It would not be easy to get the pins out of the handles , and disconnect all the cables in order to disassemble the switches ,so I don't want to do it if it has never been an issue before, I have never heard anyone in all these years mention a problem with the switch contacts.
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


Re: Shaft alternator on Santorin don’t work

ste.dente
 

Hi Ian,
thanks for your answer. Yes, the alternator has been working before this; I didn’t use it so much because of the poor wind in Mediterranean Sea that means poor speed under sail. How do you think I should control the actuating circuit? Is the normal tester sufficient or do I need something else? Do you know if there is a relay in the actuating circuit? Last question: do you have on your Santorin also the red light under the green? Thanks and fair wind

Stefania

Il giorno 14 lug 2021, alle ore 23:32, Ian Park <parkianj@gmail.com> ha scritto:

Stefanie
Your English is very good. My Santorin is 1994, no 96. The main thing that should happen when you turn the key (as well as the green light turning on) is an instant decrease in the propellor shaft revolutions. This is caused by the alternator producing resistance by producing electricity. No decrease, no electricity.
I am not an alternator specialist, but this must mean the that there is a problem with the actuating circuit from the key.
Has the alternator been working before this?

Ian
Ocean Hobo SN 96.





Re: Shaft alternator on Santorin don’t work

Ian Park
 

Stefanie
Your English is very good. My Santorin is 1994, no 96. The main thing that should happen when you turn the key (as well as the green light turning on) is an instant decrease in the propellor shaft revolutions. This is caused by the alternator producing resistance by producing electricity. No decrease, no electricity.
I am not an alternator specialist, but this must mean the that there is a problem with the actuating circuit from the key.
Has the alternator been working before this?

Ian
Ocean Hobo SN 96.


Re: Intermittent starting issue

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Pat, was there a birthday in your family recently? Happy birthday.

As to contacts. I have said this a number of times before. The sea environment is brutal and unless we protect our contacts we will inevitably get failures. Corrosion, like rust, never sleeps. I use CRC 556 marine. WD 40 is a first cousin. Spray all electrical connections regularly, say once every six months. It is a whole lot easier than hunting down failed connections. I spray behind all instruments and switch panels. Over all alternators and starter motors and associated connections. Over and INTO (caps deliberate) the water pump for the air con. Mounted so low it is in a very vulnerable position. I also go all round the engine room and spray all metal parts and particularly hose clamps.

One Amel friend said to me on looking into my engine room. How come you don't have rust like mine. I smiled and shook my can of CRC

Caution, be sure to only use product that is rated for electrical use. One person I know once sprayed the back of his radios with a product  including a longer lasting lubricant additive. He was about to start an ocean race and lost the use of his radios.

Kind Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

On 15 July 2021 at 01:40 "Patrick McAneny via groups.io" <sailw32@...> wrote:

For a couple of years I have had an issue ,where I turn the key and nothing happens, or the blower may come on and then turning the key further results in the blower going off. It seems to be a condition where there is an electrical contact ,but when additional load is required ,the contact is broken. I can go months without this occurring , but it does, and I need to resolve it ,before it gets me into trouble. I have a new starter battery and starter ,so that is not the issue. I have in the past turned the battery switches off and on repeatedly and then been able to start the engine ,but not always. We met up with Delos in the Caribbean  a few times and I know Brian disassembled his switches to clean the contacts.But I did not ask if he was having starting issues , I guess I assumed he did. Before I go to the trouble of doing that, I was wondering if other owners have had such an issue and cleaned their switches . Is there other possible causes I should look at first. It would not be easy to get the pins out of the handles , and disconnect all the cables in order to disassemble the switches ,so I don't want to do it if it has never been an issue before, I have never heard anyone in all these years mention a problem with the switch contacts.
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


Shaft alternator on Santorin don’t work

ste.dente
 

Dear Amelians, I hope some of you can help me solving my problem. My 1994 Santorin is, as usual, equipped with a shaft alternator. Last year I made a check of the alternator because it didn’t work correctly. The check was ok : the alternator worked normally “ at the bank”. I put it in place again. But now, when I turn the key in the galley in order to activate it, only the red lamp light on but the propeller continues to turn free and the green lamp doesn’t light up.
I checked the wiring coming from the key to the alternator and something strange came out: when I turn the key ON, no volts are checked; if I turn the key OFF, the tester tell me 13V. May be some of you could suggest me how can I control the wiring better ? Or something else? 

I really hope you can understand my poor English. Thanks everybody for the attention. Fair wind
Stefania
SY EUPLOIA 
Santorin #93
Actually in Corse


Re: Intermittent starting issue

Patrick McAneny
 

Bill ,Are all those relays located in the black box attached to the engine? Do relays work intermittently ,or are they either good or bad ? I wish I better understood the complexities of the electrical systems on the boat. I could wire a house ,no problem ,but looking at a electrical schematic and relating that to the actually wiring ,leaves me scratching a bald spot on my head. 
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Sent: Wed, Jul 14, 2021 1:42 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Intermittent starting issue

Mark,

I believe if that works on your Amel, the Negative Solenoid is defeated, bypassed, or not installed.

The negative solenoid closes by the key action when the key is moved to "start."

I think it might be possible to connect a remote starter switch to the starter relay which controls both the starter solenoid and the negative solenoid.


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Wed, Jul 14, 2021 at 12:32 PM Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:
Pat,
 
Here’s a thought. When the engine doesn’t crank, use a remote starter switch to bypass the panel. This connects to the solenoid on the starter (the small terminal marked “s” and the pos battery terminal – thick red cable). This will completely bypass the panel at the helm.

This will help isolate your issue. If the engine cranks, you’ll know the issue is in the panel or harness (probably a poor connection). If it doesn’t crank it is not the panel.
 
To anyone else reading this, this item should be in your spare parts. Some people will use and ruin a screwdriver to do the same thing but this is much safer.
 
 
With best regards,
 
Mark
 
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia
 
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Patrick McAneny via groups.io
Sent: Wednesday, July 14, 2021 3:40 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Intermittent starting issue
 
For a couple of years I have had an issue ,where I turn the key and nothing happens, or the blower may come on and then turning the key further results in the blower going off. It seems to be a condition where there is an electrical contact ,but when additional load is required ,the contact is broken. I can go months without this occurring , but it does, and I need to resolve it ,before it gets me into trouble. I have a new starter battery and starter ,so that is not the issue. I have in the past turned the battery switches off and on repeatedly and then been able to start the engine ,but not always. We met up with Delos in the Caribbean  a few times and I know Brian disassembled his switches to clean the contacts.But I did not ask if he was having starting issues , I guess I assumed he did. Before I go to the trouble of doing that, I was wondering if other owners have had such an issue and cleaned their switches . Is there other possible causes I should look at first. It would not be easy to get the pins out of the handles , and disconnect all the cables in order to disassemble the switches ,so I don't want to do it if it has never been an issue before, I have never heard anyone in all these years mention a problem with the switch contacts.
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans

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