Date   

Removing the center disk from the wheel.

Eric Freedman
 

Try as I might I could not remove the “Amel” disc from the center of the wheel.

I finally drilled a hole in the aluminum part of the wheel where it joins the disk. Using a #70 drill bit and with a small amount of force and a small titanium pin, the disk popped out . Mine is made of stainless and the corrosion was holding it in place.

Problem solved.

 

I will now send the wheel out to be powder coated and then to www.Boatleather.com

in California. They do not have the exact leather ; however it is close. They also have a different technique to add leather where the spokes join the wheel. However, my wheel was so sad looking int needed help.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 


Intermittent starting issue

Eric Freedman
 

Over the last 5 or so years I have encountered this intermittent problem.

With a new engine totally rewired by me and all new panel and wiring I assumed the problem was solved.

 

However, it was not. I found that Amel used welding wire and not tinned wire from the starting battery and the main switches. Additionally , the lugs that they used were open at the terminal end. Thus, allowing the battery acid laden air to enter the wire, When I cut the wire open, I found that it was corroded for almost 2 feet from the battery.-which causes a lot of resistance . The voltage at the starter motor was + or – 11 volts.

The Valeo solenoid is rather sensitive to low voltage.

 

Upon further inspection of the cabled from the starting battery to the vapor barrier connector was a completely different color than the wire outside the battery box.

 

I replaced the cables and used closed end connectors on the cables. I also soldered the cables to the connectors after crimping them. I then applied Scotchcote,  

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_LB/p/d/v000260989/ 

 

 

which is used on many underground connections.

Now the engine starts and stops like a charm. I also noted that the generator starts much more quickly.

 

While I was in the battery box, I noted that the common lugs posts for all the batteries were somewhat corroded. I loosened the nuts and applied corrosion x in between the lugs. My next project is to replace all the battery cables.

 

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

 

 


Re: Mastervolt Alpha High-Output Alternator Temperature when charging LiFePO4

Billy Newport
 

120C seems unsafely hot. If you look at most 0000 wiring, it's only rated to 105C (usually written on the insulation). Something to think about.

Billy


Mold between cushion and chest freezer on 55

Billy Newport
 

Hello,
I'm noticing 2 problems on my chest freezer since the heat wave started. My AC was out so it was rather hot in the boat. There is some mold on the "carpet" finish on top of the chest freezer lid, between the chest door and the cushion on top of it. There is also moisture getting between the freezer door and the freezer and there is ice building in that corner on the plate.
We've been spraying down the "carpet" with mold killer but the moisture is new. Any ideas?

Billy (Amel 55#56)


Re: A/C fan speed

Doug Smith
 

My 54 is the 113th hull and has the circuit board attached as it’s control circuit.  I went looking for the capacitors when mine was freezing up, and I found this instead.

 

Doug Smith

S/V Aventura, Amel 54-113

White Point Marina, Kinsale VA USA

 

From: <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
Reply-To: <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Date: Friday, July 16, 2021 at 2:43 PM
To: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification" <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] A/C fan speed

 

I believe that somewhere about mid-production of the A-54 the Climma Compact units changed from capacitor-controlled fan speed to a semiconductor-controlled fan speed. If you have the "before  semiconductor-controlled fan speed," I believe that you probably have one of the two PCBs below.

image.png
The "C1" in the middle can be 4.0 rather than 3.15
image.png

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School

Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 

 

View My Training Calendar

 

 

On Fri, Jul 16, 2021 at 11:56 AM Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote:

Not much help but if the fan keeps running at max speed it’s typically a semiconductor (MOS-FET, Power transistor, etc.) that has given up and acts like a full conductor. You could try to trace the circuit for the fan to see if you see a big transistor-like component. Often it will be attached to some cooling body.  Make sure the unit has no power.
Now you can measure across the connection points of the component. If you see zero ohm resistance across some of the points the component is suspect and has to be desoldered. Again measure the resistance across the contacts. If it again measures (close to) zero ohm chances are you found the problem. 
I have not seen a proper schematic diagram for the Climma units.

Cheers,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121


Re: Reinsert SM Bow Thruster after service

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Eammon, 

Firstly the center spline. It does wobble from side to side but for some reason does enter without too much trouble, But to line the spline up I wriggle the propeller back and forth while maintaining upward pressure. When I am putting it in I have the motor lowered to half height convenient to slip a bolt in once it is in place. Because of the fact it flops off center I am always surprised how easily it enters. There is a bit of a chamfer on the end of the spline that helps it to enter.

Rust. From day one when we bought her 12 years ago Ocean Pearls connection was well oiled and has remained so. I ensure it is well greased before re entering it and I have never had any rust develop. I doubt if machining is needed. Clean the rust off by whatever means you can and then apply lot of a good quality grease into and around it, spline included. Does salt water get onto that connection area? I cant see how unless you are in the habit of leaving the bow thruster down when underway and the seals are leaking allowing water to get in.

Not much help I guess

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

Mangonui New Zealand

On 17 July 2021 at 06:59 Eamonn Washington <eamonn.washington@...> wrote:

Hi

every 2 years I service the bow thruster, changing the oil and lip seals and foam doughnuts  and greasing the tube on my Super Maramu.  Every 2 years it is a nightmare getting the bow thruster to detach from the motor after the 4 bolts are removed, and a bigger nightmare to reinsert it. The cast iron at the base of the motor is rusty, which I treated.  I am the 4th owner and the third owner did not maintain the boat well.

My problem is that I simply cannot reinsert the bow thruster back into the motor.  I gather from this forum that for some it is always "sweet", it just slides in. 

I guess the difficulty getting it out implies that it will be difficult to get in.  But I give up.  So what can I do to improve the situation now and in the future?  Should I take the rusty base out and machine it to make it possible to slide the bow thruster in?  If I have to go down this route then I will give up hope of sailing this year.  It seems to be a mammoth task.

I am not sure if the center spline is the problem too; what do you do to ensure that it stays in the center as you push up the lower part.

Am I the only one with the reinserting the bow thruster after service problem?

Thanks

Eamonn Washington
Travel Bug
Super Maramu #151
On the hard, New Ross, Ireland.


Re: Sidepower oil loss

Dominique Sery
 

Hello Alexander, 
I had the same problem. There was a leak on the small plastic tank, i remove it and put another one.
Dominique
Irko A54#16


Reinsert SM Bow Thruster after service

Eamonn Washington
 

Hi

every 2 years I service the bow thruster, changing the oil and lip seals and foam doughnuts  and greasing the tube on my Super Maramu.  Every 2 years it is a nightmare getting the bow thruster to detach from the motor after the 4 bolts are removed, and a bigger nightmare to reinsert it. The cast iron at the base of the motor is rusty, which I treated.  I am the 4th owner and the third owner did not maintain the boat well.

My problem is that I simply cannot reinsert the bow thruster back into the motor.  I gather from this forum that for some it is always "sweet", it just slides in. 

I guess the difficulty getting it out implies that it will be difficult to get in.  But I give up.  So what can I do to improve the situation now and in the future?  Should I take the rusty base out and machine it to make it possible to slide the bow thruster in?  If I have to go down this route then I will give up hope of sailing this year.  It seems to be a mammoth task.

I am not sure if the center spline is the problem too; what do you do to ensure that it stays in the center as you push up the lower part.

Am I the only one with the reinserting the bow thruster after service problem?

Thanks

Eamonn Washington
Travel Bug
Super Maramu #151
On the hard, New Ross, Ireland.


Sidepower oil loss

Alexander Ramseyer
 

Hi,
my Sidepower bowthruster seems to loose oil. I'm regularly refilling the small plastic tank that sits next to it and it regularly empties again.
Did somebody on this forum have the same problem?
Is there a seal kit or similar available to tackle the problem?
Best, Alex
sv NO STRESS
AMEL54#15


Re: A/C fan speed

Courtney Gorman
 

You never really want to run it any slower or it freezes up 
Cheers 
Courtney 
Trippin 


On Jul 16, 2021, at 11:14 AM, Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...> wrote:

The A/C fan speed in the master cabin does not change and stays at 4, regardless of the setting. I’m suspecting a capacitor issue, but was wondering if anyone has seen a troubleshooting guide that helps pinpoint the issue as to which one, or the controller or something else?


Re: A/C fan speed

 

I believe that somewhere about mid-production of the A-54 the Climma Compact units changed from capacitor-controlled fan speed to a semiconductor-controlled fan speed. If you have the "before  semiconductor-controlled fan speed," I believe that you probably have one of the two PCBs below.
image.png
The "C1" in the middle can be 4.0 rather than 3.15
image.png
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Fri, Jul 16, 2021 at 11:56 AM Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote:
Not much help but if the fan keeps running at max speed it’s typically a semiconductor (MOS-FET, Power transistor, etc.) that has given up and acts like a full conductor. You could try to trace the circuit for the fan to see if you see a big transistor-like component. Often it will be attached to some cooling body.  Make sure the unit has no power.
Now you can measure across the connection points of the component. If you see zero ohm resistance across some of the points the component is suspect and has to be desoldered. Again measure the resistance across the contacts. If it again measures (close to) zero ohm chances are you found the problem. 
I have not seen a proper schematic diagram for the Climma units.

Cheers,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121


Re: A/C fan speed

Arno Luijten
 

Not much help but if the fan keeps running at max speed it’s typically a semiconductor (MOS-FET, Power transistor, etc.) that has given up and acts like a full conductor. You could try to trace the circuit for the fan to see if you see a big transistor-like component. Often it will be attached to some cooling body.  Make sure the unit has no power.
Now you can measure across the connection points of the component. If you see zero ohm resistance across some of the points the component is suspect and has to be desoldered. Again measure the resistance across the contacts. If it again measures (close to) zero ohm chances are you found the problem. 
I have not seen a proper schematic diagram for the Climma units.

Cheers,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121


A/C fan speed

Mohammad Shirloo
 

The A/C fan speed in the master cabin does not change and stays at 4, regardless of the setting. I’m suspecting a capacitor issue, but was wondering if anyone has seen a troubleshooting guide that helps pinpoint the issue as to which one, or the controller or something else?


Re: Bow thruster does not work in one direction

Mohammad Shirloo
 

Agreed. Although with practice it is possible to back an Amel without a bowthruster, in tight marinas with cross wind, it is not wise. In The Med, I consider the bowthruster,  a safety item that should not be down for long.


From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of CW Bill Rouse via groups.io <brouse@...>
Sent: Friday, July 16, 2021 6:03:32 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Bow thruster does not work in one direction
 
The fact that a SidePower dealer in Croatia had 2 solenoids in stock should be a sign to all SidePower owners that it is a really good thing to have one of these available to replace when the original is 8-10 years old.

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Fri, Jul 16, 2021 at 10:54 AM Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...> wrote:
Update. The cleaning and service of the main solenoid was only good for a few uses. It stopped working again. I took apart again and the carbon buildup was back. I tried leveling the contacts by using a dermal abbrasive blade, but found that there was no contact left at two of the contact points. I found the Sidepower dealer in Croatia, he had two of the solenoids in stock. Installed new one 2 days later and all functioning well.


Re: Bow thruster does not work in one direction

 

The fact that a SidePower dealer in Croatia had 2 solenoids in stock should be a sign to all SidePower owners that it is a really good thing to have one of these available to replace when the original is 8-10 years old.

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Fri, Jul 16, 2021 at 10:54 AM Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...> wrote:
Update. The cleaning and service of the main solenoid was only good for a few uses. It stopped working again. I took apart again and the carbon buildup was back. I tried leveling the contacts by using a dermal abbrasive blade, but found that there was no contact left at two of the contact points. I found the Sidepower dealer in Croatia, he had two of the solenoids in stock. Installed new one 2 days later and all functioning well.


Re: Bow thruster does not work in one direction

Mohammad Shirloo
 

Update. The cleaning and service of the main solenoid was only good for a few uses. It stopped working again. I took apart again and the carbon buildup was back. I tried leveling the contacts by using a dermal abbrasive blade, but found that there was no contact left at two of the contact points. I found the Sidepower dealer in Croatia, he had two of the solenoids in stock. Installed new one 2 days later and all functioning well.


Re: Spinnaker pole strut mast fitting ball joint replacement?

Kevin Schmit
 

Here’s a picture of the finished product.  Still needs a final “fit&finish”.


--
Kevin & Kristen Schmit
KIANA
SM #362


Re: Spinnaker pole strut mast fitting ball joint replacement?

Kevin Schmit
 


--
Kevin & Kristen Schmit
KIANA
SM #362


Re: Mastervolt Alpha High-Output Alternator Temperature when charging LiFePO4

Scott SV Tengah
 

I attached the Mastervolt BATTERY temperature sensor to the outer casing of the MV110 amp alternator and wired it to the Alpha Pro II alternator temperature sensor input. Mastervolt techs said this is ok. While this may not be inside, I also seem to remember that the MV software sets the cutoff temperature for the alternator MUCH higher than 115C. 

I have had this setup for over 2 years with my lifepo4 setup and have definitely run it for 2-3+ hours at max output with no problems. Of course by saying that, my alternator will fail tomorrow. :)

On Thu, Jul 15, 2021 at 2:24 AM Dominique Sery via groups.io <dominiquesery=me.com@groups.io> wrote:

Hello Dean, the Mastervolt alternator temperature is 115° C after one one hour at 95 A and stay at 115°.

I put an alternator temperature sensor but it does not work very well because i put it 
on B+ output where the temperature rise 60° C. I can’t put the sensor at the warmest point. I mesured the inside temperature at 115.

All mesures with a Fluke infrared thermometer.
Dominique


--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Re: wheel removal

Slavko Despotovic
 

Hi Eric,

tool I used to remove wheel.

regards.
--
Slavko
SM 2000
#279 Bonne Anse in Portoroz

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