Date   

Re: [Amel] Coppercoat anti-fouling

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Hi Martin, Yes, we have just had Pen Azen Coppercoated. She is SM no. 302, launched in June 2000. We had her treated by Symblast on the Hamble. Essentially, they sandblasted the antifouling off, leaving a very shiny gel coat which they then needed to abraid with a disc sander to get a good key. They then rolled on 4 coats of Coppercoat, an epoxy with 18% copper powder mixed in--they mix one litre at a time- and with the iron keel they took it back to shiny metal, treated the metal with its own epoxy ( several layers) and then coppercoated on top. We had it done in August , in dry weather. Symblast were very conscious of putting it on in the dry, though I think that Coppercoat themselves are a bit more relaxed. I did a fair amount of research before opting for Coppercoat. If you email them ( info@coppercoat.com) they give prompt and full answers Undoubtedly there were some horror stories in the earlier years amongst other firms ( with similar names) who didn't get the mix right and most of them have gone out of business as a result. However, Coppercoat do seem to have cracked it. The editor of Practical Boat Owner put it on her boat 10 years ago and swears by it--and her boat is only out of the water for 12 HOURS a year! She doesn't do anything to improve the surface, though you do hear of some who are in very polluted river waters who occasionally rub off a layer of slime. Coppercoat claim to have treated about 30,000 boats and when Oyster and Sunseeker are using their product that says a lot to me. See www.coppercoat.com Pen Azen is at Swanwick marina. She has only been back in the water for a couple of months, so its early days. Give me a buzz if you want to know more. My cel phone is 07870659844 Cheers, Ian and Judy Jenkins, Pen Azen, SM 302

To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
From: yachtcaduceus@yahoo.co.uk
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 2009 16:07:49 +0000
Subject: [Amel] Coppercoat anti-fouling

When our Amel 54 was being built the yard declined to consider applying Coppercoat saying that it would invalidate their anti-osmosis guarantee.

Coppercoat appealed then as it does now, the thought of an antifouling that will last 10 years in most conditions has great appeal.

Our boat is currently in Ipswich amongst a glittering array of new Oyster yachts, and standing up to scrutiny particularly well. In discussion with the yard manager it came out that over 50% of new Oysters are being treated with Coppercoat, including the latest yacht built for the recently retired Chairman. On the basis that what is good for the Oyster should be good for the Amel does anyone out there have experience with Coppercoat and Amel yachts?

Regards,

Martin Bevan
Caduceus - Amel 54 No 56 2007



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Re: [Amel] Shore power supplies - 220v and 110v

Robin Cooter <robincooter@...>
 

We did the same when we went over with our Santorin.   Went from Key West to Maine and never had a problem with the electrics.
 
Regards,
 
Robin Cooter
Santorin 004 - Belouga

--- On Sun, 22/11/09, kimberlite <kimberlite@optonline.net> wrote:


From: kimberlite <kimberlite@optonline.net>
Subject: RE: [Amel] Shore power supplies - 220v and 110v
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Sunday, 22 November, 2009, 18:05


 



We use a 50 amp usa bayonet plug and wire it using the blue hooked to the
red on the plug, the brown hooked to the black and the green to the green.
The white is not used.

This gives you 220 volts 60 cycles which works most of the items on the
boat.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

_____

From: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com] On Behalf Of Martin
Sent: Sunday, November 22, 2009 11:24 AM
To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
Subject: [Amel] Shore power supplies - 220v and 110v

We intend to cross from Europe to the Caribbean with ARC 2010 and then to
cruise the Caribbean and during the summer of 2011 to travel up the east
coasts of the USA.

We have a standard European fitted Amel 54 that functions on 220v 50Hz.

I would be grateful for advice on how to cope with 110v and 60Hz assuming
that is possible, in order to take advantage of shore power during our vist
to the United States.

Regards,
Martin Bevan
Caduceus - Amel 54 No 56 2007

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]











[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


spreader boots

WilliamR <leonorebt@...>
 

Hello all,
I have lost a boot on the stb main spreader and it hurts the genoa. I believe it just deterioated and would like to replace all 4 on the main mast. Can suitable ones be found in the states? Most I've seen are too small. Thoughts?

Bill Rahmig Leonore of Sark SM72


Rép. : [Amel] Shore power supplies - 220v and 110v

Serge Tremblay <laetitiaii@...>
 

Hi Martin,
 
As a North american, i had the same problem, going back and forth between places where 110 acv 60 hz prevailed and Europe or the FWI where it was 220 acv 50 hz... Furthermore, being from a country where 110 is the norm, all my hand tools, including kitchen equipment were 110 and someone gave me a 110 clothewasher, to replace my rusted 220 machine.  
 
I installed a 220-110, 3500w transformer in the ac circuit, a ground protecting device for shore power, a 110 connection for the marinas and a master selector switch for the entry plugs.
 
The only problem encountered was a 220 water pump for my Siemen dishwasher, i replaced same with a DC water pump, activated by a relay.
 
When ac power is on, i have the two voltages and i have taken advantage of this in my earlier computer setup where prices for 220 equipment was higher than 110 as well as for other equipment such as a 110 micowave oven which was inexpensive here and a 220 micowave was not readily available.
 
However in recent years, many computer accessories run from a transformer-regulator capable of both 110 and 220, my 110 micowave broke down when i was in Spain in 2007 and was replaced with a 220 model.
 
My main battery 220 charger/inverter (Sterling, with which i replaced a 1000w Mastervolt charger/inverter) works well with this system, howevever, i do cutout the transformer, if the 110 is not required since the transformer does draw about 125 milli amp,  (about 25 watts), on the inverter even if 110 power is not required. I also have a variety of chargers for the PDA, the portable telephones, the VHF, the portable drills, the small battery chargers, some run on 110 others on 220 and they are disconnected when i am not on shore power and the charge is not needed.
 
As for the existing clothewasher, i saw an interesting 220 top loading model in Martinique with whhich i expect to replace the existing 110 machine. Not having connected the housing of the latter to the  general grounding circuit, the 10 year old machine is starting to rust and is less efficient than the newer machines.
 
I know that with a recent Amel you are not yet concerned with the aging of the electrical equipment, but with my experience you can see that having the choice of voltages does offer more than the opportunity to use 110 shore power at marinas.
 
BTW, when looking for transformers,  you will find models fully encapsulated in resin. They are well designed for marina operators or yachties installing same on a dock, but are bulky and seemed to be relatively expensive. My transformer is a simple one that i recoated with epoxyde paint, it is installed in the engine room, affixed to the partition wall of the pilot berth.
 
Hope to hear about your choice.
 
Serge , Mango 51

Note: À VENDRE - FOR SALE
LAETITIA II
info: www.columbia37.com & www.laetitia-l.com

--- En date de : Dim, 22.11.09, Martin <yachtcaduceus@yahoo.co.uk> a écrit :


De: Martin <yachtcaduceus@yahoo.co.uk>
Objet: [Amel] Shore power supplies - 220v and 110v
À: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: dimanche 22 Novembre 2009, 11 h 23


 



We intend to cross from Europe to the Caribbean with ARC 2010 and then to cruise the Caribbean and during the summer of 2011 to travel up the east coasts of the USA.

We have a standard European fitted Amel 54 that functions on 220v 50Hz.

I would be grateful for advice on how to cope with 110v and 60Hz assuming that is possible, in order to take advantage of shore power during our vist to the United States.

Regards,
Martin Bevan
Caduceus - Amel 54 No 56 2007









Découvrez les photos les plus intéressantes du jour.
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Re: [Amel] Downwind sailing with a 54

eric freedman
 

Martin,

We purchased a heavy gennaker and sail it in 30 knots true down wind.

On crossing we had it up for 7 days straight.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite







_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Martin
Sent: Sunday, November 22, 2009 11:35 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] Downwind sailing with a 54





I would be interested to receive feedback from other 54 owners in
particular, and other Amel owners in general, as to your experience with
trade wind, downwind, sailing and what other sail plan options that you may
have tried.

Unlike earlier Amel yachts the 54 does not have the Amel twin headsail
option, relying on the genoa, a single bearing out pole and a light weight
(15kts max) genaker.

We are usually sailing with only the two of us aboard and our options are
limited in respect of spinakers and the like, given the problems and risks
involved in handling in rising winds.

Regards,
Martin Bevan
Caduceus - Amel 54 No 56 2007


Re: [Amel] Shore power supplies - 220v and 110v

eric freedman
 

We use a 50 amp usa bayonet plug and wire it using the blue hooked to the
red on the plug, the brown hooked to the black and the green to the green.
The white is not used.

This gives you 220 volts 60 cycles which works most of the items on the
boat.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Martin
Sent: Sunday, November 22, 2009 11:24 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] Shore power supplies - 220v and 110v





We intend to cross from Europe to the Caribbean with ARC 2010 and then to
cruise the Caribbean and during the summer of 2011 to travel up the east
coasts of the USA.

We have a standard European fitted Amel 54 that functions on 220v 50Hz.

I would be grateful for advice on how to cope with 110v and 60Hz assuming
that is possible, in order to take advantage of shore power during our vist
to the United States.

Regards,
Martin Bevan
Caduceus - Amel 54 No 56 2007


Re: [Amel] Coppercoat anti-fouling

Horst Pause <horst.puddleduck@...>
 

I applied Coppercoat 2 seasons ago and sailed in Greek waters. Each season the boat was stationery in a marina for more than 2 months (July and August). In Thessaloniki, after a full 3 months, minor algal growth happened, easily scraped off. In Rethimno, 2 months, no growth. During both seasons there happened not a single barnacle. This November, when the boat was lifted out in Koilada, after a pressure wash everything was first class. I am happy with the result.

I cannot understand Amel in this respect. Coppercoat is an epoxy (with loads of copper powder), this should enhance any osmosis protection. I have seen 3 boats (not Amel quality), one after 5 years (needed small areas redoing) one with 8 (no growth), one with 9 (although perfect, they applied 2 more layers as they had the materials ready).

Horst - Puddleduck
Maramu No.168, 1985

P.S. I live in the Isle of Man





________________________________
From: Martin <yachtcaduceus@yahoo.co.uk>
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sun, 22 November, 2009 16:07:49
Subject: [Amel] Coppercoat anti-fouling


When our Amel 54 was being built the yard declined to consider applying Coppercoat saying that it would invalidate their anti-osmosis guarantee.

Coppercoat appealed then as it does now, the thought of an antifouling that will last 10 years in most conditions has great appeal.

Our boat is currently in Ipswich amongst a glittering array of new Oyster yachts, and standing up to scrutiny particularly well. In discussion with the yard manager it came out that over 50% of new Oysters are being treated with Coppercoat, including the latest yacht built for the recently retired Chairman. On the basis that what is good for the Oyster should be good for the Amel does anyone out there have experience with Coppercoat and Amel yachts?

Regards,

Martin Bevan
Caduceus - Amel 54 No 56 2007


Re: [Amel] Re: SHOWER HOSE

Horst Pause <horst.puddleduck@...>
 

Thanks for that Mike, very much appreciated. Unfortunately I am in Europe and have no direct access to Home Depot; their internet access does not give connector sizes. Also, Amel being European, I would suspect that the hose connectors would be metric.

Horst




________________________________
From: mwestley47 <mwestley47@yahoo.com>
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sun, 22 November, 2009 5:39:47
Subject: [Amel] Re: SHOWER HOSE


Simple fix are RV shower hoses. Take your hoses to Home Depot and you'll find an option.

Mike Westley
SV Resolute

--- In amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com, Horst Pause <horst.puddleduck@ ...> wrote:

The shower hose in one of my bathrooms is broken.

Has anybody renewed theirs? or knows of a source for it?

Thanks,

Horst - Puddleduck

Maramu No.168, 1985







Downwind sailing with a 54

Martin <yachtcaduceus@...>
 

I would be interested to receive feedback from other 54 owners in particular, and other Amel owners in general, as to your experience with trade wind, downwind, sailing and what other sail plan options that you may have tried.

Unlike earlier Amel yachts the 54 does not have the Amel twin headsail option, relying on the genoa, a single bearing out pole and a light weight (15kts max) genaker.

We are usually sailing with only the two of us aboard and our options are limited in respect of spinakers and the like, given the problems and risks involved in handling in rising winds.

Regards,
Martin Bevan
Caduceus - Amel 54 No 56 2007


Shore power supplies - 220v and 110v

Martin <yachtcaduceus@...>
 

We intend to cross from Europe to the Caribbean with ARC 2010 and then to cruise the Caribbean and during the summer of 2011 to travel up the east coasts of the USA.

We have a standard European fitted Amel 54 that functions on 220v 50Hz.

I would be grateful for advice on how to cope with 110v and 60Hz assuming that is possible, in order to take advantage of shore power during our vist to the United States.

Regards,
Martin Bevan
Caduceus - Amel 54 No 56 2007


Coppercoat anti-fouling

Martin <yachtcaduceus@...>
 

When our Amel 54 was being built the yard declined to consider applying Coppercoat saying that it would invalidate their anti-osmosis guarantee.

Coppercoat appealed then as it does now, the thought of an antifouling that will last 10 years in most conditions has great appeal.

Our boat is currently in Ipswich amongst a glittering array of new Oyster yachts, and standing up to scrutiny particularly well. In discussion with the yard manager it came out that over 50% of new Oysters are being treated with Coppercoat, including the latest yacht built for the recently retired Chairman. On the basis that what is good for the Oyster should be good for the Amel does anyone out there have experience with Coppercoat and Amel yachts?

Regards,

Martin Bevan
Caduceus - Amel 54 No 56 2007


Re: [Amel] Re: Maramu Deck Light etc.

Richard Molony <rfmolony@...>
 

Mike,

Thanks for the response. I have it easy with the masts off. Does the bulb
have a screw base, a bayonet base, or is it push fit?

Richard

On Sun, Nov 22, 2009 at 12:37 AM, mwestley47 <mwestley47@yahoo.com> wrote:



Resolute is Maramu 138. If the deck light is similar to mine it is a bulb
captured in somewhat pliable houseing, sort of a stiff rubber. Work around
the bulb and the housing and the bulb can be coaxed out. My problem was that
there was barely enough slack in the wire to get the new bulb rewired. I
replace it in a botswain's chair, a real challenge.

Mike Westley
SV Resolute


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com <amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>,
"rfmolony" <rfmolony@...> wrote:

I'm afraid that I have failed more of life's intelligence tests.

I have the masts off Maramu 91, Popeye now and can't figure out how to
disassemble and/or replace the bulb in the deck light that is riveted to the
leading edge of the main mast, just below the steaming light. Any advice
from someone who's been down this path would be appreciated.

Two of the clevis pins for the main mast standing rigging on the
starboard side have "clips" welded to them and line laced between the clips.
The welds look original. Any ideas as to what this might be for? I am about
to replace the turnbuckles and clevis pins along with the standing rigging
and would hate to invalidate some vital bit of gear.

The forestay is 8mm 1x19 which seems light to me if you do not have the
inner forestay attached and tensioned all the time. Does anyone have any
thoughts on this? Any downside to replacing it with 10mm?

Richard Molony
Popeye - Maramu 91


Re: SHOWER HOSE

mwestley47 <mwestley47@...>
 

Simple fix are RV shower hoses. Take your hoses to Home Depot and you'll find an option.

Mike Westley
SV Resolute

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Horst Pause <horst.puddleduck@...> wrote:

The shower hose in one of my bathrooms is broken.

Has anybody renewed theirs? or knows of a source for it?

Thanks,

Horst - Puddleduck

Maramu No.168, 1985





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Maramu Deck Light etc.

mwestley47 <mwestley47@...>
 

Resolute is Maramu 138. If the deck light is similar to mine it is a bulb captured in somewhat pliable houseing, sort of a stiff rubber. Work around the bulb and the housing and the bulb can be coaxed out. My problem was that there was barely enough slack in the wire to get the new bulb rewired. I replace it in a botswain's chair, a real challenge.

Mike Westley
SV Resolute

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "rfmolony" <rfmolony@...> wrote:

I'm afraid that I have failed more of life's intelligence tests.

I have the masts off Maramu 91, Popeye now and can't figure out how to disassemble and/or replace the bulb in the deck light that is riveted to the leading edge of the main mast, just below the steaming light. Any advice from someone who's been down this path would be appreciated.

Two of the clevis pins for the main mast standing rigging on the starboard side have "clips" welded to them and line laced between the clips. The welds look original. Any ideas as to what this might be for? I am about to replace the turnbuckles and clevis pins along with the standing rigging and would hate to invalidate some vital bit of gear.

The forestay is 8mm 1x19 which seems light to me if you do not have the inner forestay attached and tensioned all the time. Does anyone have any thoughts on this? Any downside to replacing it with 10mm?

Richard Molony
Popeye - Maramu 91


Winch Spares

rfmolony <rfmolony@...>
 

For information.

I had terrible trouble obtaining spares for the Lewmar 48ST genoa winches on Popeye. Washers were missing or damaged. All US avenues, including Lewmar, failed.

"winchspares.com" based in the UK had what I needed, and even shipped them before we had worked out how to send the money. They claim to be able to make whatever you need if they do not have it in stock.

My experience with them was excellent. I have no connection with them, I hasten to add, beyond being a very satisfied customer.

Richard Molony
Popeye - Maramu 91


Maramu Deck Light etc.

rfmolony <rfmolony@...>
 

I'm afraid that I have failed more of life's intelligence tests.

I have the masts off Maramu 91, Popeye now and can't figure out how to disassemble and/or replace the bulb in the deck light that is riveted to the leading edge of the main mast, just below the steaming light. Any advice from someone who's been down this path would be appreciated.

Two of the clevis pins for the main mast standing rigging on the starboard side have "clips" welded to them and line laced between the clips. The welds look original. Any ideas as to what this might be for? I am about to replace the turnbuckles and clevis pins along with the standing rigging and would hate to invalidate some vital bit of gear.

The forestay is 8mm 1x19 which seems light to me if you do not have the inner forestay attached and tensioned all the time. Does anyone have any thoughts on this? Any downside to replacing it with 10mm?

Richard Molony
Popeye - Maramu 91


Re: [Amel] Mooring in Bermuda

Richard Piller <richard03801@...>
 

Kent, call Super Sail in FL they have the spec for the sail you need. Sorry I don't have their number with me.
Richard on SM 209




________________________________
From: Kent Robertson <karkauai@yahoo.com>
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Fri, November 13, 2009 3:58:29 PM
Subject: Re: [Amel] Mooring in Bermuda


Thanks, Gary...I like that kind of "insider" info. Do you have any specs on your mizzen staysail? So far the lofts I've contacted need more info than I can give them.

Does anyone have a preferred marina for leaving the boat for a few weeks in Grenada? St. Lucia? St. Martin/Maarten? BVI or USVI? A couple of you suggested either American or Independence on St. Thomas, with a caveat about the dirty yard at Independence.

As usual, thanks for all your help and encouragement. I'm really getting excited about the sail with only a week to go.
Kent
SM243

--- On Fri, 11/13/09, amelliahona <no_reply@yahoogroup s.com> wrote:

From: amelliahona <no_reply@yahoogroup s.com>
Subject: [Amel] Mooring in Bermuda
To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
Date: Friday, November 13, 2009, 3:08 PM



Hi Kent:

From all your posts it looks like you are getting ready to go to Bermuda. Best of luck, that is a great sail. I use my mizzen staysail all the time, it is a great addition in light conditions.

I have also purchased 2 sails from Super Sailmakers in Florida. I have their vertical batten main and their Caribbean Blaster Jib. Both have been great sails.

In 2005 we sailed from Norfolk to Bermuda and then on to the BVI. We were fortunate enough to meed a fellow named Danny Little in Bermuda who has a small company named Day-Spring Marine ( "dayspringmarine@ logic.bm" ) phone: 441-297-0766. He had a couple of moorings about 100 yards from the customs dock. This made it very convenient to go on the mooring while awaiting the customs dock and afterwards. He was very helpful and friendly. If you are interested you might give him a call.

Best regards, Gary Silver s/v Liahona , Amel SM2000 Hull # 335


Autohelm

Horst Pause <horst.puddleduck@...>
 

Hi Barry and Robyn,

I installed the Pacific Plus on my Maramu 4 years ago for 2 main reasons:
1 - backup steering (my NECO failed)
2 - saving electricity
For you, on an SM, point 2 is not applicable as you have ample electricity with your generators. As to point 1, the cost of the Windpilot system as a backup is rather high.

Whilst the system works well, especially in steady conditions, do not discount that the system sticks out quite some distance on the back of your boat which can make mooring in a marina more fraught as you will be conscious of a rather expensive piece of equipment being endangered should a swell develop when you are moored stern-to.

Regards, Horst



I also came across a book, Self-Steering Under Sail by Peter Christian
Forthmann. The suggested wind vane model for the Amel is the Windpilot
Pacifc Plus, a twin rudder system designed for boats less than
80m/60ft. Is there anyone out there who has this installed on their
Amel?

Best Regards
Barry and Robyn


Rép. : [Amel] Re: Autohelm ST7000 and Windvane self steering

Serge Tremblay <laetitiaii@...>
 

Hi Barry,

I have now seen svbebe photos. Because the Mango is not as wide as the SM, i had to install the linear arm to a lenghtened tiller arm positioned toward the bow.

As is the case fo svbebe i have kept the rotary pilot as a back up. The other enhancement that i am looking forward to is a way to disengage the steering cable connections or tiller arm to which they are connected when the aft pilot is used.

During a previous Atlantic crossing, one of the cables broke and the emergency tiller had to be used...

Serge D. Tremblay Mango 51

Note: À VENDRE - FOR SALE

LAETITIA II

info: www.columbia37.com & www.laetitia-l.com

--- En date de : Sam, 14.11.09, svbebe <yahoogroups@svbebe.com> a écrit :

De: svbebe <yahoogroups@svbebe.com>
Objet: [Amel] Re: Autohelm ST7000 and Windvane self steering
À: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: samedi 14 Novembre 2009, 19 h 57







 











Barry & Robin,



S/V BeBe, #387 has a Raymarine 70001+, a Raymarine 400G AST Autopilot

Computer, a Raymarine M81137 Type 2 Type 2 Rotary Drive 24V, and a

Raymarine M81134 Type 2 Long Linear Drive 24 Volt. Note this linear

drive only comes with a 12 volt clutch which is the same situation with

the rotary drive you have. If are not familiar with how to place the

fuse for the clutch to 12 volts, consult your manual.



We use the linear drive as our primary with the rotary as a backup.



...












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http://cf.avatars.yahoo.com/


Rép. : [Amel] Autohelm ST7000 and Windvane self steering

Serge Tremblay <laetitiaii@...>
 

Barry,

I have installed a Autohelm linear drive Type 2S to my Mango rudder post in 2005.

Since then, i did extended cruising, including a Pond crossing in winter 2007 where the swells were enormous ( 10 m +) crossing the 2 and 3 m waves of the wind. During the crossing from Gran Canaria to Martinique, the helm was only used for changing direction or modifying sails, less than 2 hours in 19 days. We loss two days because we decided to sail up to the south  of Cape Verde in order to get out of the cold.

As for the installation, i bolted to the tiller arm (what you seem to refer to as 'Rudder horn') a SS 12mm x 40 mm plate which gives to my linear drive the 250mm tiller arm lenght recommended in the Autohelm detailed installation instructions you cans find on the internet.

The system work well, it is not noisy.
The only change i would have made is to install the type 2L linear drive since the Mango with  two fuel reservoirs for almost one ton of fuel and many spares and a high density of equipment (my companionway berth is converted into a mechanical shop including a column drill, a lathe, a grinder...), but the 2L requires a 350mm long tiller arm which means that the floor space at the rear of the cabin has to be reduced by another 10mm.

I do not have a picture of the installation and i am away from the boat.

Serge Tremblay  mango 51



Note: À VENDRE - FOR SALE

LAETITIA II

info: www.columbia37.com & www.laetitia-l.com

--- En date de : Sam, 14.11.09, Barry <seagasm@gmail.com> a écrit :

De: Barry <seagasm@gmail.com>
Objet: [Amel] Autohelm ST7000 and Windvane self steering
À: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: samedi 14 Novembre 2009, 16 h 55







 









Hi everyone, I have the ST7000 rotary chain system installed and recently the electric motor failed during a trip from the Whitdsundays, north Qld here in Australia. Although I managed to have this repaired, it only prompted me to seriously consider a backup system. Mark from Sabbatical III has a linear drive connected as the primary unit and uses the chain gear system behind the wheel as the secondary backup.



My question here is what is the model of the Autohelm ST7000 Linear unit that is installed and connected to the rudder horn beneath the bed in the aft stateroom? It would appear that type 2(24V) drive unit is the one but there are three versions here providing three different tiller radius. Are there any pictures available of the system installed that show the connection to the rudder stock at the tiller arm?



I also came across a book, Self-Steering Under Sail by Peter Christian Forthmann. The suggested wind vane model for the Amel is the Windpilot Pacifc Plus, a twin rudder system designed for boats less than 80m/60ft. Is there anyone out there who has this installed on their Amel?



Best Regards

Barry and Robyn

Tradewinds III SM 171























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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]