Re: A/C fan speed
Mohammad Shirloo
Hi Doug;
I have not opened ours in a while, but believe we have what bill has sent.
Respectfully;
Mohammad and Aty B&B Kokomo Amel 54 #099
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
On Behalf Of Doug Smith via groups.io
Sent: Friday, July 16, 2021 2:11 PM To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] A/C fan speed
My 54 is the 113th hull and has the circuit board attached as it’s control circuit. I went looking for the capacitors when mine was freezing up, and I found this instead.
Doug Smith S/V Aventura, Amel 54-113 White Point Marina, Kinsale VA USA
From: <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
I believe that somewhere about mid-production of the A-54 the Climma Compact units changed from capacitor-controlled fan speed to a semiconductor-controlled fan speed. If you have the "before semiconductor-controlled fan speed," I believe that you probably have one of the two PCBs below.
On Fri, Jul 16, 2021 at 11:56 AM Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote:
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Re: Bow thruster does not work in one direction
Mohammad Shirloo
Hi Randall;
Your solenoid is quite different than ours and the contact points on yours are larger. I’m unsure if dielectric grease would be wise without really knowing how it will behave under the conditions that these solenoids operate. If you did not observe any, when you disassembled, my inclination would be not to add any.
Respectfully;
Mohammad and Aty B&B Kokomo Amel 54 #099
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
On Behalf Of Randall Walker via groups.io
Sent: Friday, July 16, 2021 5:46 PM To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Bow thruster does not work in one direction
Well that’s not good for me as they definitely won’t have one here in Grenada. So I have my unit ready to resemble and had but one question. The contacts, did you put any dielectric grease to aid contact. Or would that be a no no. Mine are not as far gone as yours were? I did learn a lot from the tear down though. Hope my rebuild will work.
Randall A54#56 Grenada
On Fri, Jul 16, 2021 at 12:10 Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...> wrote:
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Re: Mastervolt Alpha High-Output Alternator Temperature when charging LiFePO4
Dominique Sery
Hello, Mastervolt indicates in the documentation that the power must be reduced from 100 ° and the alternator stopped at 125 °. The problem with the temperature sensor is that it cannot be attached to the hottest part of the alternator. With an Alpha Pro 2 or 3 regulator with masterbus socket, it is possible to modify certain parameters such as the temperature not to be exceeded, by adjusting it to 55 ° (at the location of the probe) the internal temperature of the alternator will not be too high (I set to 60 °, I will do other tests and measurements) as well as choose the lithium profile. The software also reduces the output power, but the latest version (web software) requires the intervention of an online Mastervolt technician. It is not possible to modify the proposed lithium profile yourself (28.5 bulk / absorption, absorption time 4 h, floating 27 v). On the Alpha pro 1, it is possible to adjust the bulk, absorption and float voltages as well as the absorption time to best approximate the recommended settings for lithium batteries, with a screwdriver.
Dominique Irko A54#16
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Re: Removing the center disk from the wheel.
eric freedman <kimberlite@...>
Hi Mark, Thank you for the intel. Fair Winds, Eric
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Mark Erdos
Sent: Friday, July 16, 2021 10:11 PM To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Removing the center disk from the wheel.
Eric,
I replaced my wheel cover and purchased the replacement leather cover from Amel. It is not hard to do, especially if you have the wheel off. Send Maud a pic of your wheel. It takes a couple of weeks for the leather guy to make it. They include the binding. The quality was much nicer than BoatLeather (I returned theirs).
With best regards,
Mark
Skipper Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275 Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of eric freedman
Try as I might I could not remove the “Amel” disc from the center of the wheel. I finally drilled a hole in the aluminum part of the wheel where it joins the disk. Using a #70 drill bit and with a small amount of force and a small titanium pin, the disk popped out . Mine is made of stainless and the corrosion was holding it in place. Problem solved.
I will now send the wheel out to be powder coated and then to www.Boatleather.com in California. They do not have the exact leather ; however it is close. They also have a different technique to add leather where the spokes join the wheel. However, my wheel was so sad looking int needed help. Fair Winds Eric Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
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Re: In Mast Furling
Agree with all of that. When I bought Elyse, the first few goes at unfurling and furling the mainsail I completely stuffed it up and I wondered if I would ever get the hang of it. Well, I did and now we don't have any issues and we have short vertical battens in our main.
A number of "tricks" help. 1. try always to unfurl and furl on starboard tack heading just off dead up wind - that's because of the rotation of the foil in the mast feeds the sail in on the starboard side, do it on port tack and the sail is rubbing on the mast opening causing friction and possible sail damage. 2. make sure the boom is at 90 degrees to the mast, if it is too high the sail will bunch up at the top when furling and you will have a lot of problems unfurling it. We have a tape mark on the main sheet at my eye level to know that the boom is in the correct position. 3. Use the motor switches to keep the outhaul just tight enough to prevent flogging the sail. Unfurling keep the outhaul switch on and toggle the mast motor switch to keep things under control. The opposite when furling, keep the mast motor switch on and toggle the outhaul to ensure a smooth wrap of the sail on the foil. Once you get the hang of it, it's easy and as others have said it shouldn't put you off buying what is arguably the best blue water cruising yacht out there. cheers Alan Elyse SM437
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Re: Removing the center disk from the wheel.
Eric,
I replaced my wheel cover and purchased the replacement leather cover from Amel. It is not hard to do, especially if you have the wheel off. Send Maud a pic of your wheel. It takes a couple of weeks for the leather guy to make it. They include the binding. The quality was much nicer than BoatLeather (I returned theirs).
With best regards,
Mark
Skipper Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275 Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia www.creampuff.us
From:
main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On
Behalf Of eric freedman
Try as I might I could not remove the “Amel” disc from the center of the wheel. I finally drilled a hole in the aluminum part of the wheel where it joins the disk. Using a #70 drill bit and with a small amount of force and a small titanium pin, the disk popped out . Mine is made of stainless and the corrosion was holding it in place. Problem solved.
I will now send the wheel out to be powder coated and then to www.Boatleather.com in California. They do not have the exact leather ; however it is close. They also have a different technique to add leather where the spokes join the wheel. However, my wheel was so sad looking int needed help. Fair Winds Eric Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
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Re: In Mast Furling
Eric,
Just about every new Amel owner jams their main sail during the first months of ownership. Me included – more than once – because I like being an over-achiever. The good news is the sail will furl but will not unfurl if you don’t pay attention to the furling orientation. So this means, no going up the mast in the ocean. If you can’t get the sail out, just use the jib and mizzen sail. The mizzen has never jammed on me.
The key to the furling is to point to windward, and while furling the main, keep just a small amount of tension on the outhaul (not too much) with the boom level and fastened. At first, perhaps furling a couple of feet at a time until you get used to the motors.
If you are trying to pull out the sail and it gets stuck at the top while coming out of the mast, the trick is to turn the furling winch the other way (furling it back into the mast) while keeping the outhaul tight (but not too tight). Work the furling back and forth a little bit and it will come loose. This is true with both the main and the mizzen mast. On the main sail, do not over strain the motors. If you burn the motor out, it is an expensive mistake. Keep the outhaul snug and slowly furl in and out. It will come loose. Sometimes it will come out a little bit at a time but keep going back and forth and it will all come out. Do not over strain the motor. If it get hot, wait! Let it cool and try again later.
If it were me, I would not let this small detail deter me from buying one of the best blue water cruising boats ever built.
You asked about
the plus side. For us it is never having to leave the cockpit to adjust the
sails. One person can very easily reef or shake out a reef from the safety of
the helm position.
Hope this helps.
With best regards,
Mark
Skipper Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275 Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia www.creampuff.us
From:
main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On
Behalf Of Eric Forster
Ok so here it is. I have been thinking about getting an Amel
for quite a while and am about ready to make the leap, but with all things I
over think everything. I love the boat, but the inmast furling scares me quite
a bit. I have only been on one boat with it and we had issues a couple of the
times that we went out. Seeing that I plan on doing the first sail in our new
boat from Hawaii to California I am a bit nervous to say the least. Going up
the mast in the middle of the Pacific is not my idea of a good time. Just
looking to hear from people about their experience with the inmast furling on
the Amels, good, bad, and ugley.
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Re: In Mast Furling
I had the same reservation. Actually I still have it to some extent. The Amel system is good but it is very much dependent on proper maintenance and the condition of your (main)sail.
The Mizzen is hardly ever a problem but I’m not big on the way the mainsail works as you have hardly an idea how much force you are putting on the system. The only thing you have is your eyes, your ears and two switches. I think I would prefer the outhaul working unidirectional with a slipping line when furling in the main. That said, with proper care and careful operation the system will be quite reliable. There are some current limiters in the system to prevent you from really messing up the system. So the motors will halt when too much force is put on the system. On the A54 Amel introduced short battens in the sail that do add some complexity but also enable an increase of the surface area of the main sail. I have had some minor issues with the main but most of them were related to a old mainsail with a very floppy leach. My new mainsail rolls in much nicer. This is my first in-mast furling system so I have little to compare but I do think that slab reefing on a sail this size is a challenge as well when shorthanded. I guess it is a trade-off. The good thing is that the system is fairly simple compared to some other systems in the market so there is not too much that can go wrong. I think the most problematic are the 90-degree gearboxes on the outhaul and the main spindle for the older Amels. Hope that helps, Arno Luijten SV Luna, A54-121
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In Mast Furling
Eric Forster
Ok so here it is. I have been thinking about getting an Amel for quite a while and am about ready to make the leap, but with all things I over think everything. I love the boat, but the inmast furling scares me quite a bit. I have only been on one boat with it and we had issues a couple of the times that we went out. Seeing that I plan on doing the first sail in our new boat from Hawaii to California I am a bit nervous to say the least. Going up the mast in the middle of the Pacific is not my idea of a good time. Just looking to hear from people about their experience with the inmast furling on the Amels, good, bad, and ugley.
Eric
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Re: Bow thruster does not work in one direction
Randall Walker
Well that’s not good for me as they definitely won’t have one here in Grenada. So I have my unit ready to resemble and had but one question. The contacts, did you put any dielectric grease to aid contact. Or would that be a no no. Mine are not as far gone as yours were? I did learn a lot from the tear down though. Hope my rebuild will work. Randall A54#56 Grenada
On Fri, Jul 16, 2021 at 12:10 Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...> wrote:
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Re: wheel removal
eric freedman <kimberlite@...>
Slavko, I had no problem removing the wheel, just the AMEL cover plate. Fair Winds Eric Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io On Behalf Of Slavko Despotovic
Hi Eric,
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Removing the center disk from the wheel.
eric freedman <kimberlite@...>
Try as I might I could not remove the “Amel” disc from the center of the wheel. I finally drilled a hole in the aluminum part of the wheel where it joins the disk. Using a #70 drill bit and with a small amount of force and a small titanium pin, the disk popped out . Mine is made of stainless and the corrosion was holding it in place. Problem solved.
I will now send the wheel out to be powder coated and then to www.Boatleather.com in California. They do not have the exact leather ; however it is close. They also have a different technique to add leather where the spokes join the wheel. However, my wheel was so sad looking int needed help. Fair Winds Eric Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
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Intermittent starting issue
eric freedman <kimberlite@...>
Over the last 5 or so years I have encountered this intermittent problem. With a new engine totally rewired by me and all new panel and wiring I assumed the problem was solved.
However, it was not. I found that Amel used welding wire and not tinned wire from the starting battery and the main switches. Additionally , the lugs that they used were open at the terminal end. Thus, allowing the battery acid laden air to enter the wire, When I cut the wire open, I found that it was corroded for almost 2 feet from the battery.-which causes a lot of resistance . The voltage at the starter motor was + or – 11 volts. The Valeo solenoid is rather sensitive to low voltage.
Upon further inspection of the cabled from the starting battery to the vapor barrier connector was a completely different color than the wire outside the battery box.
I replaced the cables and used closed end connectors on the cables. I also soldered the cables to the connectors after crimping them. I then applied Scotchcote, https://www.3m.com/3M/en_LB/p/d/v000260989/
which is used on many underground connections. Now the engine starts and stops like a charm. I also noted that the generator starts much more quickly.
While I was in the battery box, I noted that the common lugs posts for all the batteries were somewhat corroded. I loosened the nuts and applied corrosion x in between the lugs. My next project is to replace all the battery cables.
Fair Winds Eric Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
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Re: Mastervolt Alpha High-Output Alternator Temperature when charging LiFePO4
Billy Newport
120C seems unsafely hot. If you look at most 0000 wiring, it's only rated to 105C (usually written on the insulation). Something to think about.
Billy
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Mold between cushion and chest freezer on 55
Billy Newport
Hello,
I'm noticing 2 problems on my chest freezer since the heat wave started. My AC was out so it was rather hot in the boat. There is some mold on the "carpet" finish on top of the chest freezer lid, between the chest door and the cushion on top of it. There is also moisture getting between the freezer door and the freezer and there is ice building in that corner on the plate. We've been spraying down the "carpet" with mold killer but the moisture is new. Any ideas? Billy (Amel 55#56)
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Re: A/C fan speed
Doug Smith
My 54 is the 113th hull and has the circuit board attached as it’s control circuit. I went looking for the capacitors when mine was freezing up, and I found this instead.
Doug Smith S/V Aventura, Amel 54-113 White Point Marina, Kinsale VA USA
From: <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
I believe that somewhere about mid-production of the A-54 the Climma Compact units changed from capacitor-controlled fan speed to a semiconductor-controlled fan speed. If you have the "before semiconductor-controlled fan speed," I believe that you probably have one of the two PCBs below.
On Fri, Jul 16, 2021 at 11:56 AM Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote:
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Re: Reinsert SM Bow Thruster after service
Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
Hi Eammon, Firstly the center spline. It does wobble from side to side but for some reason does enter without too much trouble, But to line the spline up I wriggle the propeller back and forth while maintaining upward pressure. When I am putting it in I have the motor lowered to half height convenient to slip a bolt in once it is in place. Because of the fact it flops off center I am always surprised how easily it enters. There is a bit of a chamfer on the end of the spline that helps it to enter. Rust. From day one when we bought her 12 years ago Ocean Pearls connection was well oiled and has remained so. I ensure it is well greased before re entering it and I have never had any rust develop. I doubt if machining is needed. Clean the rust off by whatever means you can and then apply lot of a good quality grease into and around it, spline included. Does salt water get onto that connection area? I cant see how unless you are in the habit of leaving the bow thruster down when underway and the seals are leaking allowing water to get in. Not much help I guess Danny SM 299 Ocean Pearl Mangonui New Zealand
On 17 July 2021 at 06:59 Eamonn Washington <eamonn.washington@...> wrote:
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Re: Sidepower oil loss
Dominique Sery
Hello Alexander,
I had the same problem. There was a leak on the small plastic tank, i remove it and put another one. Dominique Irko A54#16
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Reinsert SM Bow Thruster after service
Eamonn Washington
Hi
every 2 years I service the bow thruster, changing the oil and lip seals and foam doughnuts and greasing the tube on my Super Maramu. Every 2 years it is a nightmare getting the bow thruster to detach from the motor after the 4 bolts are removed, and a bigger nightmare to reinsert it. The cast iron at the base of the motor is rusty, which I treated. I am the 4th owner and the third owner did not maintain the boat well. My problem is that I simply cannot reinsert the bow thruster back into the motor. I gather from this forum that for some it is always "sweet", it just slides in. I guess the difficulty getting it out implies that it will be difficult to get in. But I give up. So what can I do to improve the situation now and in the future? Should I take the rusty base out and machine it to make it possible to slide the bow thruster in? If I have to go down this route then I will give up hope of sailing this year. It seems to be a mammoth task. I am not sure if the center spline is the problem too; what do you do to ensure that it stays in the center as you push up the lower part. Am I the only one with the reinserting the bow thruster after service problem? Thanks Eamonn Washington Travel Bug Super Maramu #151 On the hard, New Ross, Ireland.
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Sidepower oil loss
Hi,
my Sidepower bowthruster seems to loose oil. I'm regularly refilling the small plastic tank that sits next to it and it regularly empties again. Did somebody on this forum have the same problem? Is there a seal kit or similar available to tackle the problem? Best, Alex sv NO STRESS AMEL54#15
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