Date   

Re: A/C fan speed

Mohammad Shirloo
 

Hi Doug;

 

I have not opened ours in a while, but believe we have what bill has sent.

 

Respectfully;

 

 

Mohammad and Aty

B&B Kokomo

Amel 54 #099

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Doug Smith via groups.io
Sent: Friday, July 16, 2021 2:11 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] A/C fan speed

 

My 54 is the 113th hull and has the circuit board attached as it’s control circuit.  I went looking for the capacitors when mine was freezing up, and I found this instead.

 

Doug Smith

S/V Aventura, Amel 54-113

White Point Marina, Kinsale VA USA

 

From: <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
Reply-To: <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Date: Friday, July 16, 2021 at 2:43 PM
To: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification" <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] A/C fan speed

 

I believe that somewhere about mid-production of the A-54 the Climma Compact units changed from capacitor-controlled fan speed to a semiconductor-controlled fan speed. If you have the "before  semiconductor-controlled fan speed," I believe that you probably have one of the two PCBs below.


The "C1" in the middle can be 4.0 rather than 3.15

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School

Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 

 

View My Training Calendar

 

 

On Fri, Jul 16, 2021 at 11:56 AM Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote:

Not much help but if the fan keeps running at max speed it’s typically a semiconductor (MOS-FET, Power transistor, etc.) that has given up and acts like a full conductor. You could try to trace the circuit for the fan to see if you see a big transistor-like component. Often it will be attached to some cooling body.  Make sure the unit has no power.
Now you can measure across the connection points of the component. If you see zero ohm resistance across some of the points the component is suspect and has to be desoldered. Again measure the resistance across the contacts. If it again measures (close to) zero ohm chances are you found the problem. 
I have not seen a proper schematic diagram for the Climma units.

Cheers,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121


Re: Bow thruster does not work in one direction

Mohammad Shirloo
 

Hi Randall;

 

Your solenoid is quite different than ours and the contact points on yours are larger. I’m unsure if dielectric grease would be wise without really knowing how it will behave under the conditions that these solenoids operate. If you did not observe any, when you disassembled, my inclination would be not to add any.

 

Respectfully;

 

 

Mohammad and Aty

B&B Kokomo

Amel 54 #099

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Randall Walker via groups.io
Sent: Friday, July 16, 2021 5:46 PM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Bow thruster does not work in one direction

 

Well that’s not good for me as they definitely won’t have one here in Grenada. So I have my unit ready to resemble and had but one question.

The contacts, did you put any dielectric grease to aid contact. Or would that be a no no.

Mine are not as far gone as yours were?

I did learn a lot from the tear down though. Hope my rebuild will work.

 

Randall

A54#56

Grenada

 

On Fri, Jul 16, 2021 at 12:10 Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...> wrote:

Agreed. Although with practice it is possible to back an Amel without a bowthruster, in tight marinas with cross wind, it is not wise. In The Med, I consider the bowthruster,  a safety item that should not be down for long.

 


From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of CW Bill Rouse via groups.io <brouse=gmail.com@groups.io>
Sent: Friday, July 16, 2021 6:03:32 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Bow thruster does not work in one direction

 

The fact that a SidePower dealer in Croatia had 2 solenoids in stock should be a sign to all SidePower owners that it is a really good thing to have one of these available to replace when the original is 8-10 years old.

 

Bill

 

 

On Fri, Jul 16, 2021 at 10:54 AM Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...> wrote:

Update. The cleaning and service of the main solenoid was only good for a few uses. It stopped working again. I took apart again and the carbon buildup was back. I tried leveling the contacts by using a dermal abbrasive blade, but found that there was no contact left at two of the contact points. I found the Sidepower dealer in Croatia, he had two of the solenoids in stock. Installed new one 2 days later and all functioning well.


Re: Mastervolt Alpha High-Output Alternator Temperature when charging LiFePO4

Dominique Sery
 

Hello, Mastervolt indicates in the documentation that the power must be reduced from 100 ° and the alternator stopped at 125 °.  The problem with the temperature sensor is that it cannot be attached to the hottest part of the alternator.  With an Alpha Pro 2 or 3 regulator with masterbus socket, it is possible to modify certain parameters such as the temperature not to be exceeded, by adjusting it to 55 ° (at the location of the probe) the internal temperature of the  alternator will not be too high (I set to 60 °, I will do other tests and measurements) as well as choose the lithium profile.  The software also reduces the output power, but the latest version (web software) requires the intervention of an online Mastervolt technician.  It is not possible to modify the proposed lithium profile yourself (28.5 bulk / absorption, absorption time 4 h, floating 27 v).  On the Alpha pro 1, it is possible to adjust the bulk, absorption and float voltages as well as the absorption time to best approximate the recommended settings for lithium batteries, with a screwdriver.
Dominique
Irko A54#16


Re: Removing the center disk from the wheel.

Eric Freedman
 

Hi Mark,

Thank you for the intel.

Fair Winds,

Eric

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Mark Erdos
Sent: Friday, July 16, 2021 10:11 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Removing the center disk from the wheel.

 

Eric,

 

I replaced my wheel cover and purchased the replacement leather cover from Amel. It is not hard to do, especially if you have the wheel off. Send Maud a pic of your wheel. It takes a couple of weeks for the leather guy to make it. They include the binding. The quality was much nicer than BoatLeather (I returned theirs).

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of eric freedman
Sent: Friday, July 16, 2021 12:55 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Removing the center disk from the wheel.

 

Try as I might I could not remove the “Amel” disc from the center of the wheel.

I finally drilled a hole in the aluminum part of the wheel where it joins the disk. Using a #70 drill bit and with a small amount of force and a small titanium pin, the disk popped out . Mine is made of stainless and the corrosion was holding it in place.

Problem solved.

 

I will now send the wheel out to be powder coated and then to www.Boatleather.com

in California. They do not have the exact leather ; however it is close. They also have a different technique to add leather where the spokes join the wheel. However, my wheel was so sad looking int needed help.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 


Re: In Mast Furling

Alan Leslie
 
Edited

Agree with all of that. When I bought Elyse, the first few goes at unfurling and furling the mainsail I completely stuffed it up and I wondered if I would ever get the hang of it. Well, I did and now we don't have any issues and we have short vertical battens in our main.

A number of "tricks" help.
1. try always to unfurl and furl on starboard tack heading just off dead up wind - that's because of the rotation of the foil in the mast feeds the sail in on the starboard side, do it on port tack and the sail is rubbing on the mast opening causing friction and possible sail damage.
2. make sure the boom is at 90 degrees to the mast, if it is too high the sail will bunch up at the top when furling and you will have a lot of problems unfurling it. We have a tape mark on the main sheet at my eye level to know that the boom is in the correct position.
3. Use the motor switches to keep the outhaul just tight enough to prevent flogging the sail. Unfurling keep the outhaul switch on and toggle the mast motor switch to keep things under control. The opposite when furling, keep the mast motor switch on and toggle the outhaul to ensure a smooth wrap of the sail on the foil.

Once you get the hang of it, it's easy and as others have said it shouldn't put you off buying what is arguably the best blue water cruising yacht out there.

cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: Removing the center disk from the wheel.

Mark Erdos
 

Eric,

 

I replaced my wheel cover and purchased the replacement leather cover from Amel. It is not hard to do, especially if you have the wheel off. Send Maud a pic of your wheel. It takes a couple of weeks for the leather guy to make it. They include the binding. The quality was much nicer than BoatLeather (I returned theirs).

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of eric freedman
Sent: Friday, July 16, 2021 12:55 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Removing the center disk from the wheel.

 

Try as I might I could not remove the “Amel” disc from the center of the wheel.

I finally drilled a hole in the aluminum part of the wheel where it joins the disk. Using a #70 drill bit and with a small amount of force and a small titanium pin, the disk popped out . Mine is made of stainless and the corrosion was holding it in place.

Problem solved.

 

I will now send the wheel out to be powder coated and then to www.Boatleather.com

in California. They do not have the exact leather ; however it is close. They also have a different technique to add leather where the spokes join the wheel. However, my wheel was so sad looking int needed help.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 


Re: In Mast Furling

Mark Erdos
 

Eric,

 

Just about every new Amel owner jams their main sail during the first months of ownership. Me included – more than once – because I like being an over-achiever. The good news is the sail will furl but will not unfurl if you don’t pay attention to the furling orientation. So this means, no going up the mast in the ocean. If you can’t get the sail out, just use the jib and mizzen sail. The mizzen has never jammed on me.

 

The key to the furling is to point to windward, and while furling the main, keep just a small amount of tension on the outhaul (not too much) with the boom level and fastened. At first, perhaps furling a couple of feet at a time until you get used to the motors.  

 

If you are trying to pull out the sail and it gets stuck at the top while coming out of the mast, the trick is to turn the furling winch the other way (furling it back into the mast) while keeping the outhaul tight (but not too tight). Work the furling back and forth a little bit and it will come loose. This is true with both the main and the mizzen mast. On the main sail, do not over strain the motors. If you burn the motor out, it is an expensive mistake. Keep the outhaul snug and slowly furl in and out. It will come loose. Sometimes it will come out a little bit at a time but keep going back and forth and it will all come out. Do not over strain the motor. If it get hot, wait! Let it cool and try again later.

 

If it were me, I would not let this small detail deter me from buying one of the best blue water cruising boats ever built.

 

You asked about the plus side. For us it is never having to leave the cockpit to adjust the sails. One person can very easily reef or shake out a reef from the safety of the helm position.

There is a good thread on this:
https://amelyachtowners.groups.io/g/main/message/33787

 

Hope this helps.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Eric Forster
Sent: Friday, July 16, 2021 3:50 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] In Mast Furling

 

Ok so here it is. I have been thinking about getting an Amel for quite a while and am about ready to make the leap, but with all things I over think everything. I love the boat, but the inmast furling scares me quite a bit. I have only been on one boat with it and we had issues a couple of the times that we went out. Seeing that I plan on doing the first sail in our new boat from Hawaii to California I am a bit nervous to say the least. Going up the mast in the middle of the Pacific is not my idea of a good time. Just looking to hear from people about their experience with the inmast furling on the Amels, good, bad, and ugley.

Eric


Re: In Mast Furling

Arno Luijten
 

I had the same reservation. Actually I still have it to some extent. The Amel system is good but it is very much dependent on proper maintenance and the condition of your (main)sail.
The Mizzen is hardly ever a problem but I’m not big on the way the mainsail works as you have hardly an idea how much force you are putting on the system. The only thing you have is your eyes, your ears and two switches. I think I would prefer the outhaul working unidirectional with a slipping line when furling in the main.
That said, with proper care and careful operation the system will be quite reliable. There are some current limiters in the system to prevent you from really messing up the system. So the motors will halt when too much force is put on the system. On the A54 Amel introduced short battens in the sail that do add some complexity but also enable an increase of the surface area of the main sail.
I have had some minor issues with the main but most of them were related to a old mainsail with a very floppy leach. My new mainsail rolls in much nicer.
This is my first in-mast furling system so I have little to compare but I do think that slab reefing on a sail this size is a challenge as well when shorthanded. I guess it is a trade-off.
The good thing is that the system is fairly simple compared to some other systems in the market so there is not too much that can go wrong. I think the most problematic are the 90-degree gearboxes on the outhaul and the main spindle for the older Amels.

Hope that helps,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121


In Mast Furling

Eric Forster
 

Ok so here it is. I have been thinking about getting an Amel for quite a while and am about ready to make the leap, but with all things I over think everything. I love the boat, but the inmast furling scares me quite a bit. I have only been on one boat with it and we had issues a couple of the times that we went out. Seeing that I plan on doing the first sail in our new boat from Hawaii to California I am a bit nervous to say the least. Going up the mast in the middle of the Pacific is not my idea of a good time. Just looking to hear from people about their experience with the inmast furling on the Amels, good, bad, and ugley.

Eric


Re: Bow thruster does not work in one direction

Randall Walker
 

Well that’s not good for me as they definitely won’t have one here in Grenada. So I have my unit ready to resemble and had but one question.
The contacts, did you put any dielectric grease to aid contact. Or would that be a no no.
Mine are not as far gone as yours were?
I did learn a lot from the tear down though. Hope my rebuild will work.

Randall
A54#56
Grenada

On Fri, Jul 16, 2021 at 12:10 Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...> wrote:
Agreed. Although with practice it is possible to back an Amel without a bowthruster, in tight marinas with cross wind, it is not wise. In The Med, I consider the bowthruster,  a safety item that should not be down for long.


From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of CW Bill Rouse via groups.io <brouse=gmail.com@groups.io>
Sent: Friday, July 16, 2021 6:03:32 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Bow thruster does not work in one direction
 
The fact that a SidePower dealer in Croatia had 2 solenoids in stock should be a sign to all SidePower owners that it is a really good thing to have one of these available to replace when the original is 8-10 years old.

Bill


On Fri, Jul 16, 2021 at 10:54 AM Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...> wrote:
Update. The cleaning and service of the main solenoid was only good for a few uses. It stopped working again. I took apart again and the carbon buildup was back. I tried leveling the contacts by using a dermal abbrasive blade, but found that there was no contact left at two of the contact points. I found the Sidepower dealer in Croatia, he had two of the solenoids in stock. Installed new one 2 days later and all functioning well.


Re: wheel removal

Eric Freedman
 

Slavko,

I had no problem removing the wheel, just the AMEL cover plate.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io On Behalf Of Slavko Despotovic
Sent: Thursday, July 15, 2021 9:47 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] wheel removal

 

Hi Eric,

tool I used to remove wheel.

regards.
--
Slavko
SM 2000
#279 Bonne Anse in Portoroz


Removing the center disk from the wheel.

Eric Freedman
 

Try as I might I could not remove the “Amel” disc from the center of the wheel.

I finally drilled a hole in the aluminum part of the wheel where it joins the disk. Using a #70 drill bit and with a small amount of force and a small titanium pin, the disk popped out . Mine is made of stainless and the corrosion was holding it in place.

Problem solved.

 

I will now send the wheel out to be powder coated and then to www.Boatleather.com

in California. They do not have the exact leather ; however it is close. They also have a different technique to add leather where the spokes join the wheel. However, my wheel was so sad looking int needed help.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 


Intermittent starting issue

Eric Freedman
 

Over the last 5 or so years I have encountered this intermittent problem.

With a new engine totally rewired by me and all new panel and wiring I assumed the problem was solved.

 

However, it was not. I found that Amel used welding wire and not tinned wire from the starting battery and the main switches. Additionally , the lugs that they used were open at the terminal end. Thus, allowing the battery acid laden air to enter the wire, When I cut the wire open, I found that it was corroded for almost 2 feet from the battery.-which causes a lot of resistance . The voltage at the starter motor was + or – 11 volts.

The Valeo solenoid is rather sensitive to low voltage.

 

Upon further inspection of the cabled from the starting battery to the vapor barrier connector was a completely different color than the wire outside the battery box.

 

I replaced the cables and used closed end connectors on the cables. I also soldered the cables to the connectors after crimping them. I then applied Scotchcote,  

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_LB/p/d/v000260989/ 

 

 

which is used on many underground connections.

Now the engine starts and stops like a charm. I also noted that the generator starts much more quickly.

 

While I was in the battery box, I noted that the common lugs posts for all the batteries were somewhat corroded. I loosened the nuts and applied corrosion x in between the lugs. My next project is to replace all the battery cables.

 

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

 

 


Re: Mastervolt Alpha High-Output Alternator Temperature when charging LiFePO4

Billy Newport
 

120C seems unsafely hot. If you look at most 0000 wiring, it's only rated to 105C (usually written on the insulation). Something to think about.

Billy


Mold between cushion and chest freezer on 55

Billy Newport
 

Hello,
I'm noticing 2 problems on my chest freezer since the heat wave started. My AC was out so it was rather hot in the boat. There is some mold on the "carpet" finish on top of the chest freezer lid, between the chest door and the cushion on top of it. There is also moisture getting between the freezer door and the freezer and there is ice building in that corner on the plate.
We've been spraying down the "carpet" with mold killer but the moisture is new. Any ideas?

Billy (Amel 55#56)


Re: A/C fan speed

Doug Smith
 

My 54 is the 113th hull and has the circuit board attached as it’s control circuit.  I went looking for the capacitors when mine was freezing up, and I found this instead.

 

Doug Smith

S/V Aventura, Amel 54-113

White Point Marina, Kinsale VA USA

 

From: <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
Reply-To: <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Date: Friday, July 16, 2021 at 2:43 PM
To: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification" <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] A/C fan speed

 

I believe that somewhere about mid-production of the A-54 the Climma Compact units changed from capacitor-controlled fan speed to a semiconductor-controlled fan speed. If you have the "before  semiconductor-controlled fan speed," I believe that you probably have one of the two PCBs below.

image.png
The "C1" in the middle can be 4.0 rather than 3.15
image.png

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School

Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 

 

View My Training Calendar

 

 

On Fri, Jul 16, 2021 at 11:56 AM Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote:

Not much help but if the fan keeps running at max speed it’s typically a semiconductor (MOS-FET, Power transistor, etc.) that has given up and acts like a full conductor. You could try to trace the circuit for the fan to see if you see a big transistor-like component. Often it will be attached to some cooling body.  Make sure the unit has no power.
Now you can measure across the connection points of the component. If you see zero ohm resistance across some of the points the component is suspect and has to be desoldered. Again measure the resistance across the contacts. If it again measures (close to) zero ohm chances are you found the problem. 
I have not seen a proper schematic diagram for the Climma units.

Cheers,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121


Re: Reinsert SM Bow Thruster after service

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Eammon, 

Firstly the center spline. It does wobble from side to side but for some reason does enter without too much trouble, But to line the spline up I wriggle the propeller back and forth while maintaining upward pressure. When I am putting it in I have the motor lowered to half height convenient to slip a bolt in once it is in place. Because of the fact it flops off center I am always surprised how easily it enters. There is a bit of a chamfer on the end of the spline that helps it to enter.

Rust. From day one when we bought her 12 years ago Ocean Pearls connection was well oiled and has remained so. I ensure it is well greased before re entering it and I have never had any rust develop. I doubt if machining is needed. Clean the rust off by whatever means you can and then apply lot of a good quality grease into and around it, spline included. Does salt water get onto that connection area? I cant see how unless you are in the habit of leaving the bow thruster down when underway and the seals are leaking allowing water to get in.

Not much help I guess

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

Mangonui New Zealand

On 17 July 2021 at 06:59 Eamonn Washington <eamonn.washington@...> wrote:

Hi

every 2 years I service the bow thruster, changing the oil and lip seals and foam doughnuts  and greasing the tube on my Super Maramu.  Every 2 years it is a nightmare getting the bow thruster to detach from the motor after the 4 bolts are removed, and a bigger nightmare to reinsert it. The cast iron at the base of the motor is rusty, which I treated.  I am the 4th owner and the third owner did not maintain the boat well.

My problem is that I simply cannot reinsert the bow thruster back into the motor.  I gather from this forum that for some it is always "sweet", it just slides in. 

I guess the difficulty getting it out implies that it will be difficult to get in.  But I give up.  So what can I do to improve the situation now and in the future?  Should I take the rusty base out and machine it to make it possible to slide the bow thruster in?  If I have to go down this route then I will give up hope of sailing this year.  It seems to be a mammoth task.

I am not sure if the center spline is the problem too; what do you do to ensure that it stays in the center as you push up the lower part.

Am I the only one with the reinserting the bow thruster after service problem?

Thanks

Eamonn Washington
Travel Bug
Super Maramu #151
On the hard, New Ross, Ireland.


Re: Sidepower oil loss

Dominique Sery
 

Hello Alexander, 
I had the same problem. There was a leak on the small plastic tank, i remove it and put another one.
Dominique
Irko A54#16


Reinsert SM Bow Thruster after service

Eamonn Washington
 

Hi

every 2 years I service the bow thruster, changing the oil and lip seals and foam doughnuts  and greasing the tube on my Super Maramu.  Every 2 years it is a nightmare getting the bow thruster to detach from the motor after the 4 bolts are removed, and a bigger nightmare to reinsert it. The cast iron at the base of the motor is rusty, which I treated.  I am the 4th owner and the third owner did not maintain the boat well.

My problem is that I simply cannot reinsert the bow thruster back into the motor.  I gather from this forum that for some it is always "sweet", it just slides in. 

I guess the difficulty getting it out implies that it will be difficult to get in.  But I give up.  So what can I do to improve the situation now and in the future?  Should I take the rusty base out and machine it to make it possible to slide the bow thruster in?  If I have to go down this route then I will give up hope of sailing this year.  It seems to be a mammoth task.

I am not sure if the center spline is the problem too; what do you do to ensure that it stays in the center as you push up the lower part.

Am I the only one with the reinserting the bow thruster after service problem?

Thanks

Eamonn Washington
Travel Bug
Super Maramu #151
On the hard, New Ross, Ireland.


Sidepower oil loss

Alexander Ramseyer
 

Hi,
my Sidepower bowthruster seems to loose oil. I'm regularly refilling the small plastic tank that sits next to it and it regularly empties again.
Did somebody on this forum have the same problem?
Is there a seal kit or similar available to tackle the problem?
Best, Alex
sv NO STRESS
AMEL54#15

2041 - 2060 of 61023