Date   

Re: Yanmar - Replacement Exhaust Elbow position

Matt & Michelle Day, SM#208 SV Talia
 

Dan,

While I have dreams of one day being an AMEL expert, I have spent many years certifying engine installations (JD, CAT, Volvo and Yanmar) in heavy equipment.  To get a definitive answer to your question, you really must ask Amel/Yanmar.  When Amel contracted with Yanmar to use their engine (or Volvo for that matter) the Amel engineers had to submit an installation design based upon Yanmar's Installation Requirements Document (I believe it is at Revision 17.2.A).  Yanmar does a pre-installation review of the data submitted and provides a go/no-go decision.  The first Yanmar engine can then be shipped to Amel for test fit/install.  Amel then installs the engine, and Yanmar engineers show up and run a gazillion tests across typically 5-7 days (cooling, fuel flow, vibration, exhaust pressure diff, blah blah blah).  If the tests pass, Yanmar gives an Authorization to Supply, ships Amel engines, and stands behind their 2000Hr/2Yr warranty.  The point is to ensure the engineering design is maintained and will perform as expected. 

The orientation of the exhaust elbow will be in that cert document.  As will be the fuel line lengths, fuel pump model/placement, electrical harness length, key switch location, vibration model/mount, overflow size/location/height, exhaust hose size and length, intake size and length, etc/etc/etc/etc. All the sexy data is in that document....even the mass-spring spectrum graph....sweet! 

Does it matter?  The Japanese engine manufacturers DO NOT do random decision making.  The part is the way it is installed for a very specific reason in THIS INSTALLATION.  You have one data point that shows that it has not mattered based on how that boat has been operated.  Maybe there are risk mitigations that are overly conservative.  Maybe they just have not hit yet. The only way you will truly know is to ask Amel or your local Yanmar rep to look at the cert document.  Another option is to reach out to the Yanmar America Certification group in Adairsville Georgia.  They are good guys and may be willing to give you guidance or a definitive answer.

Matt
Talia - SM#208
Hampton, VA       


Re: chain counter

Thomas Peacock
 

Hi Bill,

By chain counter “hot” I hope that you mean just powered, and not hot to the touch. Bill Rouse suggests a way to turn it off, we also have the older version, I was unaware of that function. That said, we do have a toggle switch in the compartment above the galley sink which controls the chain counter power. Not sure if it was factory installed, I suspect not. But a good idea nevertheless. Also, my memory is that at least one wire goes to the joystick control for the windlass. 

Tom Peacock
SM 240 Aletes
Chesapeake Bay

On Jul 20, 2021, at 7:01 PM, william reynolds <sail23692@...> wrote:

Does anyone have a good wiring schematic for the original Pochon Chain counter. I have the factory drawings which are not decipherable even if you read French.
I have 3 cables coming to the panel instrument and 2 of these go to a box above the sink labeled "Chain counter". .In this box is a terminal strip which connects the two cables from the panel and also there are 3 smaller cables with 3 wires each.  which connect in some form to the larger cables. One of these smaller cables comes from the constant power supply and one from the counter on the windless.  I can ring out the windless sensor and power supply but what the other cables are is a mystery.
The chain counter is hot all the time when then the power supply is on. This is a bad idea. Having a hot wire in the windless when you are underway and salt spray is flying is inviting corrosion. Needs a dedicated  off/of switch. 
Bill R
Cloudstreet SM2K 331


--
Tom Peacock
SM 240 Aletes
Chesapeake Bay


Re: Yanmar - Replacement Exhaust Elbow position

Dan Carlson
 

Thanks for the feedback Eric,

Structurally the hose is probably good for more years to come, but I'm having the cooling system serviced and while it's all disconnected I thought a new hose would be good. There is some corrosion in a few places where cracks in the hose have allowed air/moisture to corrode the wire inside the hose. And so the question is; if replacing, then why put such a tight bend back into the new hose. 

Thanks and regards, Daniel and Lori Carlson on sv BeBe, SM #387


On Mon, Jul 19, 2021, 8:05 PM eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Hi Dan,

Mine has been at that angle for the last 19+ years with no problem. I did have a metal water lift muffler made as my plastic one melted down.  You can move the muffler a bit for and aft to find a sweet spot for the hose. I also I had them change the angle on the muffler input slightly to reduce the bend in the hose.

 

Fair Winds

 

 

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io On Behalf Of Dan Carlson
Sent: Monday, July 19, 2021 11:43 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Yanmar - Replacement Exhaust Elbow position

 

This is specifically for Amel SM owners with the Yanmar 4JH3-HTE engine who have replaced the Exhaust Elbow with the cast SS replacement.    (see attached photos)

 

I am planning to replace the ~1 meter exhaust hose that goes from the Exhaust elbow to the water separator.   When the mechanic looked at it his first question was “can the mounting be rotated 120 degrees so that it does not put such a bend in the exhaust pipe?”    So that is my question to this group. 

 

My replacement elbow is currently mounted with the exhaust exit vertical with a slight bend to the back of the engine, the water comes in from the front side.   If I rotated it 120 degrees, then the exhaust would exit more toward the back and greatly reduce the bend in the exhaust pipe.  The water would come in at a lower angle.   I don’t think that it would introduce any more risk of water back up into the turbo.  

 

Anyone have experience or knowledge related to this?

 

Thanks and regards,  Daniel Carlson, Amel SM #387, sv BeBe

             

 

 

 


Re: In Mast Furling

Martin Birkhoff
 

Hi Laurens,

1. Until today, we had no problems furling and unfurling the main and mizzen, no matter which angle to the wind the boat was facing and how strong the wind was.


2. We had these concerns too. However, there is enough room in the mast. When fully furled, the mainsail leaves about 1.75 to 2 cm of space between the sail and the mast chamber measured at the bottom of the mast chamber. It should be noted that on Mago del Sur both the main foil and the mizzen foil have a diameter of 35 mm. You should explicitly point this out to Stade if you have a 40 mm profile for the main. In all cases it is an advantage if the foils are reinforced by an additional aluminum element which is inserted in the foil (available by Amel).


3. We cannot answer the question about differences. The old sails had lost their battens and their leeches and aft parts including the leech genoa were no longer standing. We changed all sails at the same time so we could not recognize which effects were caused by the genoa and which by main and mizzen. I beg your pardon, we cannot make a reliable comparison.

4. 
Both the main and the mizzen are equipped with a leech line, which is usually not necessary. (This is different with the gennua, where we have to use it regularly).


5. The negative effects are

  •         The sails are more expensive.
  •         It takes a lot more work to take down the sails, as it is not easy to get the long battens out. At the jetty, we always take the battens out completely and disassemble them into their parts when they are lying on the jetty.
  • If the halyard comes off the sail, you have a problem because the long battens prevent the sail from sinking down completely or from being pulled down. You then have to pull the battens out part by part, which requires a lot of work with the sagged sail. It is therefore important that the halyard and the knot at the head of the sail are in perfect condition and reliable.

Regards

Martin
Mago del Sur - 54#40
La Línea, Spain


Re: In Mast Furling

Laurens Vos
 

Hi Martin,

Very interesting and many thanks that you made us aware of the way a sail can be build.
I checked the website of Stade and almost sure I’m going to visit them soon to discuss the possibilities for our 54.
Regarding the furling, you wrote that you never had problems with furling in any wind and any direction you furled the sail. Is that correct ? 
But with the battens all the way down doesn’t get the rolled sail too big for the space inside the mast ? 
Did you experienced a difference in power of the sail or less or helm compared to the sail with the short battens ? 
Do you still need a leech line to prevent slapping ? 
Are there any negative effects to this way of battens in a sail ? 

Best regards 

Laurens Vos 
Fun@Sea - 54#92
La Rochelle 


Re: In Mast Furling

 

Interesting. None of the 54s I have seen (probably 30-40) have battens this low. Everyone I have seen has battens in about the top 1/3rd to top 1/2 of the sail.
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Wed, Jul 21, 2021 at 1:45 PM Martin Birkhoff <mbirkhoff@...> wrote:

Hi,
here a pic I made today. It shows the fourth of five battens of the main. I furled it to a position to demonstrate the slant of the batten. The top of the batten pocket has disapeared in the mast, only the last stitching is visible. At the lower end the batten pocket is 2 cm out of the mast. The longer the batten (first, second and third batten) the bigger this effect.
Hope this pic is helpful.

Regards

Martin

Mago del Sur - 54#40
La Línea, Spain


Re: In Mast Furling

Martin Birkhoff
 

Hi,
here a pic I made today. It shows the fourth of five battens of the main. I furled it to a position to demonstrate the slant of the batten. The top of the batten pocket has disapeared in the mast, only the last stitching is visible. At the lower end the batten pocket is 2 cm out of the mast. The longer the batten (first, second and third batten) the bigger this effect.
Hope this pic is helpful.

Regards

Martin

Mago del Sur - 54#40
La Línea, Spain


Re: #newboat #newboat

Peter Attinge
 

Thanks for the superfast response!!
@ Ann-Sofie right now she's located in Gävle Sweden

Kind Regards

Peter Attinge


Den ons 21 juli 2021 kl 18:12 skrev Ann-Sofie, S/Y Lady Annila <ann-sofie@...>:

Hej Pete
Välkomnen till Amel familjen ◡̈ 
 (Hi Peter, welcome to the Amel family)

Take a better picture if the broken part and send it to Maude at sav@... and ask if they have it as a spare part. Don’t forget to mention model, year and hull no.

To fix the gear box, you have to dismount the whole unit and then take it to a machine shop. They can probably help you.

Where are you located? 

Regards
Ann-Sofie & Jonas Svanberg
S/Y Lady Annila, SM 232, 1998
Present close to Benidorm, Spain


Skickat från min iPhone

21/07/2021 kl. 17:45 skrev CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>:


Email vikasa.vignando@... or phone Pierangelo Vignando +41 79 447 21 42 (French ONLY). Tell him that Bill Rouse gave you the contact info.

He owned the company that made these for Amel. He has only 2 complete gearboxes with motors around 5k-6k euro. He also has some parts. None of what he has will last long.
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Wed, Jul 21, 2021 at 10:40 AM Peter Attinge <elifaab@...> wrote:
Hello al Amel friends!

i have just payd the first 10% for a SM2K 2005. Son named S/Y TINTIN

The gearbox for the jib is broken. the owner is willing to reduce the price for a repare and leave me to solve the problem.
I thing thets not a problem while thet.

 What will it cost to let a company repare it, approxely?

As u can see at the picture they have apply silicone to seal it, and the ring for rope looks like it's broken and need to replace?!

i hope you can manage to understand my spelling :-) 

Kind Regards 

Peter Attinge  Sweden


Re: #newboat #newboat

Ann-Sofie, S/Y Lady Annila
 

Hej Pete
Välkomnen till Amel familjen ◡̈ 
 (Hi Peter, welcome to the Amel family)

Take a better picture if the broken part and send it to Maude at sav@... and ask if they have it as a spare part. Don’t forget to mention model, year and hull no.

To fix the gear box, you have to dismount the whole unit and then take it to a machine shop. They can probably help you.

Where are you located? 

Regards
Ann-Sofie & Jonas Svanberg
S/Y Lady Annila, SM 232, 1998
Present close to Benidorm, Spain
Www.sailinglife.se


Skickat från min iPhone

21/07/2021 kl. 17:45 skrev CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>:


Email vikasa.vignando@... or phone Pierangelo Vignando +41 79 447 21 42 (French ONLY). Tell him that Bill Rouse gave you the contact info.

He owned the company that made these for Amel. He has only 2 complete gearboxes with motors around 5k-6k euro. He also has some parts. None of what he has will last long.
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Wed, Jul 21, 2021 at 10:40 AM Peter Attinge <elifaab@...> wrote:
Hello al Amel friends!

i have just payd the first 10% for a SM2K 2005. Son named S/Y TINTIN

The gearbox for the jib is broken. the owner is willing to reduce the price for a repare and leave me to solve the problem.
I thing thets not a problem while thet.

 What will it cost to let a company repare it, approxely?

As u can see at the picture they have apply silicone to seal it, and the ring for rope looks like it's broken and need to replace?!

i hope you can manage to understand my spelling :-) 

Kind Regards 

Peter Attinge  Sweden


Re: Super Maramu No 29 of 1990 brand new drive unit

Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi
 

Many thanks Bill!!!

Helen 


On 21 Jul 2021, at 6:40 PM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:


Helen,

You may not need the "threaded rods" that Kent mentioned. Here is a translation:

This, except use Nyloc nuts:
<image.png>

Nyloc Nuts:
<image.png>


Instead of these 4 bolts and nuts:
<image.png>

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Wed, Jul 21, 2021 at 10:31 AM Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi <helenmi57@...> wrote:
Hi Kent and Iris,

Thank you very much!!

Bill just sent me a file which has a plan for the alignment tool so we will definitely get one made. We had asked Maud for one but they no longer stock them.

I’m not sure what you mean about the threaded rod though….like a bolt but longer?

Best regards,
Helen and Kosta 


On 21 Jul 2021, at 4:50 PM, karkauai via groups.io <karkauai=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:


Hi Helen and Kosta,
I replaced Kristy's drive several years ago. It was straightforward.  If you don't have the alignment "tool" for aligning the engine with the drive, you should really have that.  It is basically a solid block (I had mine made of aluminum by a local machinist) the same thickness as the coupling with holes drilled as on the coupling.  You will also need high strength threaded rod with nuts on both ends to make the connection of coupling to drive and transmission.  Bolts were supplied by Amel...nearly impossible to install.

I'm working from memories several years old and my mind is no longer the steel trap it used to be, but I don't remember any other issues.

If you run into problems, please contact me directly at karkauai "at" yahoo "dot" com.  Maybe your question will jog a buried memory.

Good luck.

Kent & Iris
SM 243
Kristy
Currently cruising Maine

--
Kent & Iris
KRISTY
SM243


Re: #newboat #newboat

 

Email vikasa.vignando@... or phone Pierangelo Vignando +41 79 447 21 42 (French ONLY). Tell him that Bill Rouse gave you the contact info.

He owned the company that made these for Amel. He has only 2 complete gearboxes with motors around 5k-6k euro. He also has some parts. None of what he has will last long.
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Wed, Jul 21, 2021 at 10:40 AM Peter Attinge <elifaab@...> wrote:
Hello al Amel friends!

i have just payd the first 10% for a SM2K 2005. Son named S/Y TINTIN

The gearbox for the jib is broken. the owner is willing to reduce the price for a repare and leave me to solve the problem.
I thing thets not a problem while thet.

 What will it cost to let a company repare it, approxely?

As u can see at the picture they have apply silicone to seal it, and the ring for rope looks like it's broken and need to replace?!

i hope you can manage to understand my spelling :-) 

Kind Regards 

Peter Attinge  Sweden


Re: Super Maramu No 29 of 1990 brand new drive unit

 

Helen,

You may not need the "threaded rods" that Kent mentioned. Here is a translation:

This, except use Nyloc nuts:
image.png
Nyloc Nuts:
image.png

Instead of these 4 bolts and nuts:
image.png
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Wed, Jul 21, 2021 at 10:31 AM Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi <helenmi57@...> wrote:
Hi Kent and Iris,

Thank you very much!!

Bill just sent me a file which has a plan for the alignment tool so we will definitely get one made. We had asked Maud for one but they no longer stock them.

I’m not sure what you mean about the threaded rod though….like a bolt but longer?

Best regards,
Helen and Kosta 


On 21 Jul 2021, at 4:50 PM, karkauai via groups.io <karkauai=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:


Hi Helen and Kosta,
I replaced Kristy's drive several years ago. It was straightforward.  If you don't have the alignment "tool" for aligning the engine with the drive, you should really have that.  It is basically a solid block (I had mine made of aluminum by a local machinist) the same thickness as the coupling with holes drilled as on the coupling.  You will also need high strength threaded rod with nuts on both ends to make the connection of coupling to drive and transmission.  Bolts were supplied by Amel...nearly impossible to install.

I'm working from memories several years old and my mind is no longer the steel trap it used to be, but I don't remember any other issues.

If you run into problems, please contact me directly at karkauai "at" yahoo "dot" com.  Maybe your question will jog a buried memory.

Good luck.

Kent & Iris
SM 243
Kristy
Currently cruising Maine

--
Kent & Iris
KRISTY
SM243


#newboat #newboat

Peter Attinge
 

Hello al Amel friends!

i have just payd the first 10% for a SM2K 2005. Son named S/Y TINTIN

The gearbox for the jib is broken. the owner is willing to reduce the price for a repare and leave me to solve the problem.
I thing thets not a problem while thet.

 What will it cost to let a company repare it, approxely?

As u can see at the picture they have apply silicone to seal it, and the ring for rope looks like it's broken and need to replace?!

i hope you can manage to understand my spelling :-) 

Kind Regards 

Peter Attinge  Sweden


Re: Super Maramu No 29 of 1990 brand new drive unit

Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi
 

Hi Kent and Iris,

Thank you very much!!

Bill just sent me a file which has a plan for the alignment tool so we will definitely get one made. We had asked Maud for one but they no longer stock them.

I’m not sure what you mean about the threaded rod though….like a bolt but longer?

Best regards,
Helen and Kosta 


On 21 Jul 2021, at 4:50 PM, karkauai via groups.io <karkauai@...> wrote:


Hi Helen and Kosta,
I replaced Kristy's drive several years ago. It was straightforward.  If you don't have the alignment "tool" for aligning the engine with the drive, you should really have that.  It is basically a solid block (I had mine made of aluminum by a local machinist) the same thickness as the coupling with holes drilled as on the coupling.  You will also need high strength threaded rod with nuts on both ends to make the connection of coupling to drive and transmission.  Bolts were supplied by Amel...nearly impossible to install.

I'm working from memories several years old and my mind is no longer the steel trap it used to be, but I don't remember any other issues.

If you run into problems, please contact me directly at karkauai "at" yahoo "dot" com.  Maybe your question will jog a buried memory.

Good luck.

Kent & Iris
SM 243
Kristy
Currently cruising Maine

--
Kent & Iris
KRISTY
SM243


Re: Super Maramu No 29 of 1990 brand new drive unit

karkauai
 

Hi Helen and Kosta,
I replaced Kristy's drive several years ago. It was straightforward.  If you don't have the alignment "tool" for aligning the engine with the drive, you should really have that.  It is basically a solid block (I had mine made of aluminum by a local machinist) the same thickness as the coupling with holes drilled as on the coupling.  You will also need high strength threaded rod with nuts on both ends to make the connection of coupling to drive and transmission.  Bolts were supplied by Amel...nearly impossible to install.

I'm working from memories several years old and my mind is no longer the steel trap it used to be, but I don't remember any other issues.

If you run into problems, please contact me directly at karkauai "at" yahoo "dot" com.  Maybe your question will jog a buried memory.

Good luck.

Kent & Iris
SM 243
Kristy
Currently cruising Maine

--
Kent & Iris
KRISTY
SM243


Re: chain counter

 

Press and hold the Reset (or older model "Z")  button on the chain counter to turn it off, or to turn off power to the chain counter turn off the toggle switch on the 24-12-volt converter marked permanent.

Momentarily pressing the reset button will zero out the counter.

image.png

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Tue, Jul 20, 2021 at 6:01 PM william reynolds <sail23692@...> wrote:
Does anyone have a good wiring schematic for the original Pochon Chain counter. I have the factory drawings which are not decipherable even if you read French.
I have 3 cables coming to the panel instrument and 2 of these go to a box above the sink labeled "Chain counter". .In this box is a terminal strip which connects the two cables from the panel and also there are 3 smaller cables with 3 wires each.  which connect in some form to the larger cables. One of these smaller cables comes from the constant power supply and one from the counter on the windless.  I can ring out the windless sensor and power supply but what the other cables are is a mystery.
The chain counter is hot all the time when then the power supply is on. This is a bad idea. Having a hot wire in the windless when you are underway and salt spray is flying is inviting corrosion. Needs a dedicated  off/of switch. 
Bill R
Cloudstreet SM2K 331


Super Maramu No 29 of 1990 brand new drive unit

Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi
 


Dear all,

We just received our brand new drive unit from Amel and are wondering if anyone else has replaced theirs and has any advice for us. We have a mechanical engineer to do the job but it would be really helpful if anybody has any advice for us. We had the old original drive unit which gave us various problems for many years until we decided that enough was enough and it was time for an upgrade.

We received all the hoses etc to mount it plus the new mounts and frame for both the engine and the drive unit as we need to raise the engine in order to mount the new drive unit.
I am attaching photos of the parts we received plus the plan for mounting the drive unit to the keel.
As Maud told me we will need to drill a hole in the drive unit so the we can pass the bolt though to affix it to the keel.
We are in touch with Amel but any advice and do or don’ts would be helpful.

Best regards,
Helen and Kosta SY Meditation SM No 29 of 1990
Based in Aegina, Greece



Sent from my iPhone


Galley stove replacement

Germain Jean-Pierre
 

Helllo Richard,

Our Unold induction cook plate has suction cups and is very secure on our Corian counter top during very heavy weather. Otherwise, it resides on top of the gas burners and stays well in position. 

Used extensively since 2015 as we live aboard… never a problem. Highly recommended given it’s €70 purchase price. 

Kind regards,

Jean-Pierre Germain, Eleuthera, SM007, Opua NZ




Begin forwarded message:

From: jp.germain45@...
Date: 21 July 2021 at 14:59:32 GMT+12
To: Germain Jean-Pierre <jp.germain45@...>















chain counter

william reynolds
 

Does anyone have a good wiring schematic for the original Pochon Chain counter. I have the factory drawings which are not decipherable even if you read French.
I have 3 cables coming to the panel instrument and 2 of these go to a box above the sink labeled "Chain counter". .In this box is a terminal strip which connects the two cables from the panel and also there are 3 smaller cables with 3 wires each.  which connect in some form to the larger cables. One of these smaller cables comes from the constant power supply and one from the counter on the windless.  I can ring out the windless sensor and power supply but what the other cables are is a mystery.
The chain counter is hot all the time when then the power supply is on. This is a bad idea. Having a hot wire in the windless when you are underway and salt spray is flying is inviting corrosion. Needs a dedicated  off/of switch. 
Bill R
Cloudstreet SM2K 331


Osmosis Treatment - 1986 Mango

Ellen Cahill
 

We are contemplating osmosis treatment for our Mango. Unfortunately our boat seems to be a victim of the 'bad' resin catalyst used in the mid 80's. We have lots of large blisters (up to 40mm in diameter). Bobato in La Rochelle inspected a number of the blisters a few years ago and recommended treatment.

- Has anyone here treated (or decided not to treat) osmosis on an older Amel? Why?
- What drying method did you use (natural, hotVAC, etc.)
- Are you satisfied?

Thanks!
Ellen
Saol Nua, Mango #45


1961 - 1980 of 61023