Date   

Re: Seacock for aft head

Patrick McAneny
 

Bill, Mark, I like the idea of a grease fitting , I am contacting the dealer Monday . 
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Sent: Sun, Jul 25, 2021 1:12 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Seacock for aft head

Mark let me know about this valve with a grease fitting about 2 years ago. Since then I have recommended it.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse 
Amel Owners Yacht School
+1 832-380-4970 | brouse@...
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com 
Yacht School Calendar: www.preparetocastoff.blogspot.com/p/calendar.html


   

On Sun, Jul 25, 2021, 10:40 AM Mark & Debbie Mueller <brass.ring@...> wrote:
Take a look at the Groco valve, I used this valve.  It has a grease zerk to keep the valve operating smoothly.  https://www.groco.net/products/valves-seacocks/inline-valves/ibv-series-bspp-thread
--
Mark Mueller
Brass Ring  A54


Re: Engine overheating - Amel54

Mohammad Shirloo
 

Hello David;

 

You are getting some sound advice from others on the forum and any one of them could be your problem.

 

A malfunctioning thermostat, may also present all the symptoms you describe. One simple test would be to remove the thermostat, and see if you have the same issue. If yes, then the thermostat is not your problem. If the engine stays cooler than 80 Celsius and takes a long time to come up to temperature, then the issue s the thermostat.

 

Respectfully;

 

 

Mohammad and Aty

B&B Kokomo

Amel 54 #099

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of David Crisp via groups.io
Sent: Sunday, July 25, 2021 11:59 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Engine overheating - Amel54

 

Hi All,

I've a problem with my engine D3-110i-C engine running hot (it has 1350hrs on the clock)  I'm having to keep the rev's down at 1100RPM of less otherwise the engine temp steadily rises, so that once it gets to 95degC I back of  the revs.

Apart from the temperature gauge, if I let it run hot some steam can be seen in the exhaust.

Another thing I've noticed is some gurlgling noise coming from the cockpit drain - I'm suspicious this is coming from the anti-syphon bleed hose from the exhaust anti-syphon loop.

I've check the sea water intake, the sea-chest strainer, changed the impeller (it was okay), I've bled air out of the top of the sea chest, I've taken the hoses off the exhaust elbow and that appears clear.

Any suggestions?

--
David Crisp
SV Wilna Grace
Amel 54 #58


Re: Engine overheating - Amel54

Mark Erdos
 

David, I am not that familiar with the D3 but I am certain you have a blockage in your raw-water cooling system. Start at the sea chest and work your way along the entire raw-water cooling system ending at the elbow. Remove and clean any heat exchangers (transmission, engine cooling, and after cooler). Check all the hoses to ensure they are clear of debris and ensure the raw-water pump is clean inside. This will solve your issue. Somewhere in the system you will have an “ah ha” moment. It is best to do the entire system since if you have a blockage somewhere, the chances are you’ll have more downstream. Don’t stop at the “ah ha” moment.

 

This is also a good time to replace the seals/o-rings on the heat exchangers as well as any worn hoses.  

 

Hope this helps.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of David Crisp
Sent: Sunday, July 25, 2021 8:59 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Engine overheating - Amel54

 

Hi All,

I've a problem with my engine D3-110i-C engine running hot (it has 1350hrs on the clock)  I'm having to keep the rev's down at 1100RPM of less otherwise the engine temp steadily rises, so that once it gets to 95degC I back of  the revs.

Apart from the temperature gauge, if I let it run hot some steam can be seen in the exhaust.

Another thing I've noticed is some gurlgling noise coming from the cockpit drain - I'm suspicious this is coming from the anti-syphon bleed hose from the exhaust anti-syphon loop.

I've check the sea water intake, the sea-chest strainer, changed the impeller (it was okay), I've bled air out of the top of the sea chest, I've taken the hoses off the exhaust elbow and that appears clear.

Any suggestions?

--
David Crisp
SV Wilna Grace
Amel 54 #58


Re: D3-110 Starter Earthing Relay Part Number Request

Rudolf Waldispuehl
 

Hi Dean

On my A54-55 the Mass-Relais has the Number 860877-0. I ordered a new one at GWEN Marine in France and got the message that the new number is 872242. 

Generally most or all Volvo Penta dealers are not aware of this Relais and don’t know it. They can’t find the number in their parts list. It seems to be an Amel specific Volvo part and can not be order at SAV neither. GWEN Marine is the Volvo dealer in France who delivers most VP to AMEL. 

I have done some research on specific VP Parts for the AMEL D3-110 (Sensor, etc) and will send out to the Forum a list & information about it when I’m back on my computer Tuesday 27.7. (the specified Relais is one of these parts).
 
If it’s urgent for you Dean, I can try to send you something (picture and order info) in a separate e-mail or whatsup. I’m traveling right now w/o my laptop and have limited access. Just trop a msg on my whatsup phone # is +41794018847

Best regards
Ruedi
WASABI A54-55 
Valencia 

Von meinem iPad gesendet

Am 25.07.2021 um 15:54 schrieb ngtnewington Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington@...>:

I use a thick napkin that sort of stays in place. I just check it as I do the oil dip stick and general running checks.
Last year there were a few crystals. I decided to buy a new pump and kit. 
I fitted the new pump and serviced the old with new bearings and seals. Eventually the shaft will get a wear groove. One can buy a new shaft too, if required.
Nick
S/Y Amelia
Northern Sporades



On 25 Jul 2021, at 15:17, Dean Gillies <stella@...> wrote:



Nick, great idea. Do you do anything special to prevent the napkin from moving/falling?

I'm not impressed with the impact of almost two years on the hardstand in Scotland.  I have a bunch of "stuck" systems around the boat needing stripped down or replaced, and it's proving difficult to buy Corrosion-X locally. On the bright side, the weather is fab here right now and my new hybrid lithium/lead power system is working superbly.

Cheers
Dean
SV Stella
A54-154




Re: Engine overheating - Amel54

 

You should hear gurgling.

Here is a snippet from my book, My guess is that there is debris on the front end of the ZF transmission oil cooler. Read and do this cleaning and let me know.
image.png
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sun, Jul 25, 2021 at 1:59 PM David Crisp <david@...> wrote:
Hi All,

I've a problem with my engine D3-110i-C engine running hot (it has 1350hrs on the clock)  I'm having to keep the rev's down at 1100RPM of less otherwise the engine temp steadily rises, so that once it gets to 95degC I back of  the revs.

Apart from the temperature gauge, if I let it run hot some steam can be seen in the exhaust.

Another thing I've noticed is some gurlgling noise coming from the cockpit drain - I'm suspicious this is coming from the anti-syphon bleed hose from the exhaust anti-syphon loop.

I've check the sea water intake, the sea-chest strainer, changed the impeller (it was okay), I've bled air out of the top of the sea chest, I've taken the hoses off the exhaust elbow and that appears clear.

Any suggestions?

--
David Crisp
SV Wilna Grace
Amel 54 #58


Engine overheating - Amel54

David Crisp
 

Hi All,

I've a problem with my engine D3-110i-C engine running hot (it has 1350hrs on the clock)  I'm having to keep the rev's down at 1100RPM of less otherwise the engine temp steadily rises, so that once it gets to 95degC I back of  the revs.

Apart from the temperature gauge, if I let it run hot some steam can be seen in the exhaust.

Another thing I've noticed is some gurlgling noise coming from the cockpit drain - I'm suspicious this is coming from the anti-syphon bleed hose from the exhaust anti-syphon loop.

I've check the sea water intake, the sea-chest strainer, changed the impeller (it was okay), I've bled air out of the top of the sea chest, I've taken the hoses off the exhaust elbow and that appears clear.

Any suggestions?

--
David Crisp
SV Wilna Grace
Amel 54 #58


Re: Seacock for aft head

 

Mark let me know about this valve with a grease fitting about 2 years ago. Since then I have recommended it.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse 
Amel Owners Yacht School
+1 832-380-4970 | brouse@...
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com 
Yacht School Calendar: www.preparetocastoff.blogspot.com/p/calendar.html


   

On Sun, Jul 25, 2021, 10:40 AM Mark & Debbie Mueller <brass.ring@...> wrote:
Take a look at the Groco valve, I used this valve.  It has a grease zerk to keep the valve operating smoothly.  https://www.groco.net/products/valves-seacocks/inline-valves/ibv-series-bspp-thread
--
Mark Mueller
Brass Ring  A54


Re: Seacock for aft head

Dan Carlson
 

Here is what I purchase and replaced the forward head seacock with.


Best regards, Daniel Carlson on sv BeBe, SM #387

On Sat, Jul 24, 2021, 9:35 AM Patrick McAneny via groups.io <sailw32=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
I need to replace my seacock in the aft head ,could someone confirm the size I need ,I believe it to be 1 1/4" NPT , but not sure and I want to purchase it prior to taking the old one out ,as my boat is in the water.
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans #123
Sassafras River, Md.


Re: Fuel Stick

Patrick McAneny
 

Bill, Thanks, I should have looked at your book first. My boat is on a my mooring where we live ,it has not been in a slip more than a dozen days in 16 years. 
Thanks Again,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Sent: Sun, Jul 25, 2021 11:37 am
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Fuel Stick

Pat,

Normally, you will find a large yellow/green wire bolted to either the C-Drive cross-bar or to the engine iron frame. Since everything is electrically connected the bonding wire protects all that is bolted together down to the propeller.

See the use of a test lamp to check for a Positive or Negative Start Battery leak in the attached page from my Amel Book.
The fact that the zincs are dissolving is good. This means that the zinc anodes are protecting metal superior to zinc. Possibly your zincs are depleting because of a nearby boat or dock which is wired incorrectly or a nearby metal boat that is not correctly protected.

Anyway, my 2 cents.
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sun, Jul 25, 2021 at 9:04 AM Patrick McAneny via groups.io <sailw32=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Bill, I never connected a bonding wire to the motor case ,so maybe that is not my source/problem. I would thought only to bond metal parts that are in contact to the sea water on a regular basis. I just replaced the shaft seal this week and did see a little corrosion on the motor casing. Is there instruction somewhere on how to use a multi meter to detect a leak? 
Thanks,
Pat


-----Original Message-----
From: CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Sent: Sat, Jul 24, 2021 6:06 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Fuel Stick

Pat,

Sorry, I did not answer your question. What happens inside the macerator pump when the seal starts leaking is saltwater gets into the motor wiring and inside the motor case. 

With the electric toilet Flush/Empty switches in the OFF position, the negative of the 24v house bank is still connected to the motor. Only the positive wire is switched with the switches. The saltwater creates continuity between the negative and the motor case. The bonding wire is connected to the motor case. Saltwater bridges the bonding to the negative side of the house bank and you have a negative leak.

You would only have a positive leak when the motor is energized by the switch.

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sat, Jul 24, 2021 at 4:57 PM Patrick McAneny via groups.io <sailw32=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Bill, Yes that is what I remember you said, but I was wondering if that leak only occurred while being operated. I assume that the electric current travels thru the water in the intake hose to the sea and would be broken once the hose was empty of sea water ?? I wish my boat came with the Mass. Is there somewhere in the file section that explains how to detect a leak using a volt meter. I am not sure I have done it correctly in the past.
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Sent: Sat, Jul 24, 2021 3:36 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Fuel Stick

Pat,

I probably did not make myself clear regarding the electric toilets. I later model SMs and all models from the 54 onward, Amel installed a current leak detector (MASS). It is a small toggle switch and LED which will test for a connection between the house bank positive and Bonding as well as the house bank negative and bonding.

When a failure is indicated by the LED, it is almost always caused by a failed seal on the macerator pump on the toilet, unless of course if someone has made some change or addition to the wiring anywhere on the boat.

This is what it looks like on a 54:
image.png

Snippet from my book:
image.png

In your case without the Amel-designed testing device, I think you can do this to see if you have a leak...finding it will be another chapter...let me know.
image.png
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sat, Jul 24, 2021 at 2:13 PM Patrick McAneny via groups.io <sailw32=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Bill , That is why I asked, I thought it may present a problem . I suppose I could cap the end or keep it out of the tank and store it elsewhere. 
You may remember that I have been eating up my zincs faster than normal. You have said that the electric toilets are a source of electrical leak. Does that occur only when you run it ,have the switch on? Maybe I should email yo direct or put it a new thread.
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Sent: Sat, Jul 24, 2021 2:59 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Fuel Stick

The reason you should not is that your SM tank is made of 316 stainless steel. You will get dissimilar metal corrosion where the stick touches the tank...worse case is that the corrosion will penetrate the tank.

The above is not true with later model tanks beginning with the 54 that are made of aluminum.

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sat, Jul 24, 2021 at 1:55 PM Patrick McAneny via groups.io <sailw32=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
I broke my plastic fuel stick , I am thinking about making one from aluminum bar stock. Is there any reason that would be a problem to use in the fuel tank ?
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


Re: Seacock for aft head

Mark & Debbie Mueller
 

Take a look at the Groco valve, I used this valve.  It has a grease zerk to keep the valve operating smoothly.  https://www.groco.net/products/valves-seacocks/inline-valves/ibv-series-bspp-thread
--
Mark Mueller
Brass Ring  A54


Re: Fuel Stick

 

Pat,

Normally, you will find a large yellow/green wire bolted to either the C-Drive cross-bar or to the engine iron frame. Since everything is electrically connected the bonding wire protects all that is bolted together down to the propeller.

See the use of a test lamp to check for a Positive or Negative Start Battery leak in the attached page from my Amel Book.
The fact that the zincs are dissolving is good. This means that the zinc anodes are protecting metal superior to zinc. Possibly your zincs are depleting because of a nearby boat or dock which is wired incorrectly or a nearby metal boat that is not correctly protected.

Anyway, my 2 cents.
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sun, Jul 25, 2021 at 9:04 AM Patrick McAneny via groups.io <sailw32=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Bill, I never connected a bonding wire to the motor case ,so maybe that is not my source/problem. I would thought only to bond metal parts that are in contact to the sea water on a regular basis. I just replaced the shaft seal this week and did see a little corrosion on the motor casing. Is there instruction somewhere on how to use a multi meter to detect a leak? 
Thanks,
Pat


-----Original Message-----
From: CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Sent: Sat, Jul 24, 2021 6:06 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Fuel Stick

Pat,

Sorry, I did not answer your question. What happens inside the macerator pump when the seal starts leaking is saltwater gets into the motor wiring and inside the motor case. 

With the electric toilet Flush/Empty switches in the OFF position, the negative of the 24v house bank is still connected to the motor. Only the positive wire is switched with the switches. The saltwater creates continuity between the negative and the motor case. The bonding wire is connected to the motor case. Saltwater bridges the bonding to the negative side of the house bank and you have a negative leak.

You would only have a positive leak when the motor is energized by the switch.

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
+1 832-380-4970 | brouse@...
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sat, Jul 24, 2021 at 4:57 PM Patrick McAneny via groups.io <sailw32=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Bill, Yes that is what I remember you said, but I was wondering if that leak only occurred while being operated. I assume that the electric current travels thru the water in the intake hose to the sea and would be broken once the hose was empty of sea water ?? I wish my boat came with the Mass. Is there somewhere in the file section that explains how to detect a leak using a volt meter. I am not sure I have done it correctly in the past.
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Sent: Sat, Jul 24, 2021 3:36 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Fuel Stick

Pat,

I probably did not make myself clear regarding the electric toilets. I later model SMs and all models from the 54 onward, Amel installed a current leak detector (MASS). It is a small toggle switch and LED which will test for a connection between the house bank positive and Bonding as well as the house bank negative and bonding.

When a failure is indicated by the LED, it is almost always caused by a failed seal on the macerator pump on the toilet, unless of course if someone has made some change or addition to the wiring anywhere on the boat.

This is what it looks like on a 54:
image.png

Snippet from my book:
image.png

In your case without the Amel-designed testing device, I think you can do this to see if you have a leak...finding it will be another chapter...let me know.
image.png
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
+1 832-380-4970 | brouse@...
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sat, Jul 24, 2021 at 2:13 PM Patrick McAneny via groups.io <sailw32=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Bill , That is why I asked, I thought it may present a problem . I suppose I could cap the end or keep it out of the tank and store it elsewhere. 
You may remember that I have been eating up my zincs faster than normal. You have said that the electric toilets are a source of electrical leak. Does that occur only when you run it ,have the switch on? Maybe I should email yo direct or put it a new thread.
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Sent: Sat, Jul 24, 2021 2:59 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Fuel Stick

The reason you should not is that your SM tank is made of 316 stainless steel. You will get dissimilar metal corrosion where the stick touches the tank...worse case is that the corrosion will penetrate the tank.

The above is not true with later model tanks beginning with the 54 that are made of aluminum.

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
+1 832-380-4970 | brouse@...
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sat, Jul 24, 2021 at 1:55 PM Patrick McAneny via groups.io <sailw32=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
I broke my plastic fuel stick , I am thinking about making one from aluminum bar stock. Is there any reason that would be a problem to use in the fuel tank ?
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


Re: Fuel Stick

Patrick McAneny
 

Bill, I never connected a bonding wire to the motor case ,so maybe that is not my source/problem. I would thought only to bond metal parts that are in contact to the sea water on a regular basis. I just replaced the shaft seal this week and did see a little corrosion on the motor casing. Is there instruction somewhere on how to use a multi meter to detect a leak? 
Thanks,
Pat


-----Original Message-----
From: CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Sent: Sat, Jul 24, 2021 6:06 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Fuel Stick

Pat,

Sorry, I did not answer your question. What happens inside the macerator pump when the seal starts leaking is saltwater gets into the motor wiring and inside the motor case. 

With the electric toilet Flush/Empty switches in the OFF position, the negative of the 24v house bank is still connected to the motor. Only the positive wire is switched with the switches. The saltwater creates continuity between the negative and the motor case. The bonding wire is connected to the motor case. Saltwater bridges the bonding to the negative side of the house bank and you have a negative leak.

You would only have a positive leak when the motor is energized by the switch.

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sat, Jul 24, 2021 at 4:57 PM Patrick McAneny via groups.io <sailw32=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Bill, Yes that is what I remember you said, but I was wondering if that leak only occurred while being operated. I assume that the electric current travels thru the water in the intake hose to the sea and would be broken once the hose was empty of sea water ?? I wish my boat came with the Mass. Is there somewhere in the file section that explains how to detect a leak using a volt meter. I am not sure I have done it correctly in the past.
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Sent: Sat, Jul 24, 2021 3:36 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Fuel Stick

Pat,

I probably did not make myself clear regarding the electric toilets. I later model SMs and all models from the 54 onward, Amel installed a current leak detector (MASS). It is a small toggle switch and LED which will test for a connection between the house bank positive and Bonding as well as the house bank negative and bonding.

When a failure is indicated by the LED, it is almost always caused by a failed seal on the macerator pump on the toilet, unless of course if someone has made some change or addition to the wiring anywhere on the boat.

This is what it looks like on a 54:
image.png

Snippet from my book:
image.png

In your case without the Amel-designed testing device, I think you can do this to see if you have a leak...finding it will be another chapter...let me know.
image.png
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sat, Jul 24, 2021 at 2:13 PM Patrick McAneny via groups.io <sailw32=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Bill , That is why I asked, I thought it may present a problem . I suppose I could cap the end or keep it out of the tank and store it elsewhere. 
You may remember that I have been eating up my zincs faster than normal. You have said that the electric toilets are a source of electrical leak. Does that occur only when you run it ,have the switch on? Maybe I should email yo direct or put it a new thread.
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Sent: Sat, Jul 24, 2021 2:59 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Fuel Stick

The reason you should not is that your SM tank is made of 316 stainless steel. You will get dissimilar metal corrosion where the stick touches the tank...worse case is that the corrosion will penetrate the tank.

The above is not true with later model tanks beginning with the 54 that are made of aluminum.

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sat, Jul 24, 2021 at 1:55 PM Patrick McAneny via groups.io <sailw32=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
I broke my plastic fuel stick , I am thinking about making one from aluminum bar stock. Is there any reason that would be a problem to use in the fuel tank ?
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


Re: D3-110 Starter Earthing Relay Part Number Request

ngtnewington Newington
 

I use a thick napkin that sort of stays in place. I just check it as I do the oil dip stick and general running checks.
Last year there were a few crystals. I decided to buy a new pump and kit. 
I fitted the new pump and serviced the old with new bearings and seals. Eventually the shaft will get a wear groove. One can buy a new shaft too, if required.
Nick
S/Y Amelia
Northern Sporades



On 25 Jul 2021, at 15:17, Dean Gillies <stella@...> wrote:



Nick, great idea. Do you do anything special to prevent the napkin from moving/falling?

I'm not impressed with the impact of almost two years on the hardstand in Scotland.  I have a bunch of "stuck" systems around the boat needing stripped down or replaced, and it's proving difficult to buy Corrosion-X locally. On the bright side, the weather is fab here right now and my new hybrid lithium/lead power system is working superbly.

Cheers
Dean
SV Stella
A54-154




Re: Fuel Stick

Patrick McAneny
 

Bill, Eric, I only have about 3 feet of the stick in two pcs. , the rest is in the tank ,but I cannot see it ,so no repair is possible. The hatch fell on it when I had it partially out ,my mistake. I do have a pcs. of flat pvc  11/2 " x 1/4" ,maybe I could use that . Since the tank is a regular shape ,I can use the piece I have to mark the increments of fuel level. It would be useful to know the length from bottom to full. 
Thanks,
Pat
SM SHenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: eric freedman <kimberlite@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Sent: Sun, Jul 25, 2021 1:54 am
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Fuel Stick

Hi Pat,
I have broken my fuel stick twice and have very successfully repaired it, I am now in the process of repairing it a third time.
Do you have a photo of the broken stick?
 
I have fuel diverter valve which sends new fuel through a Racor filter—Thanks Ian and Judy- through a pump and then into the tank. Zealous crewmembers have broken the stick by not removing it from the tank before turning the diverter valve.
It is an easy permanent fix on Kimbelite. Please send photos and possibly the stick can be repaired.
Fair Winds
ERIC
Kimberlite Amel SM 376,
 
 
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Patrick McAneny via groups.io
Sent: Saturday, July 24, 2021 1:55 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Fuel Stick
 
I broke my plastic fuel stick , I am thinking about making one from aluminum bar stock. Is there any reason that would be a problem to use in the fuel tank ?
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


Re: Sliding ring seal of Calpeda pump

 

Martin,

If you are referring to the 12mm seal pictured below, yes, it is fairly standard. I bought several at a sidewalk shop in Penang, Malaysia. Just make sure it is made of stainless steel. Failure to replace the seal will ruin the motor as saltwater will enter the electric components.
image.png
Below is a Calpeda Pump motor ruined by saltwater because of a failed mechanical seal:
image.png

If you are referring to the "Sling Washer," its purpose is to try to mitigate saltwater from a leaking mechanical seal from getting into the pump motor and ruining it. The sling washer will mitigate some of the saltwater, but not all of it.

image.png

It is possible that you will not see or understand some of the tell-tale indications of a leaking mechanical seal because of what the sling washer does. It will throw the salwater away from the pump shaft. In the photo below, you will see a line of rust on the stainless steel freshwater accumulator tank. This line of rust got there because of the sling washer.
image.png

Lastly, here are the instructions for replacing the mechanical seal:


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sun, Jul 25, 2021 at 3:51 AM Martin Birkhoff <mbirkhoff@...> wrote:

Dear Amelians,
the sliding ring seal of our Calpeda pump (aircon) is leaking badly. The original spare part number is 035750.
Does anyone know if this sliding ring seal is a standard industrial seal?

If so, any idea where to get one?   

Thanks

Martin 
Mago del Sur - 54#40
currently Fuengirola, Spain


Re: Main hatch

william reynolds
 

Just some info on hatch retainers. Attached are photos of the hatch retaining system as installed by Amel  when  delivered to Joel Potter.
Pic #1 shows the door up and the lockers in the "unlock" position. 
Pic # 2 shows the elliptical lockers for the hatch. Up for unlock, down for locking.
Pic # 3 shows the release springs that disengage the wood bar  when lifted up. The springs are over the threaded rubber pieces that attach the ss shaft to the door. 
You simply lift the door with the handles  up the put the handles in the down position to lock. Reverse to open. 
The hinge in Pic #1 is to lift and remove the door as needed.(See Picture)
Cheers
Bill R
Cloudstreet SM2K 331


Re: Fuel Stick

Bill Kinney
 

Pat,

Do not forget there is nothing magic about a flat dipstick.  A piece of 1/2” PVC pipe would serve as well, and be easy to mark. On the pricier side, you can order a piece of stainless bar stock of appropriate width, thickness, and length from online metals.  It would be a lot more tedious to drill level marker holes in the SS, but if you left it mill finished instead of polished it would be easy to see the liquid level and could likely get away with just “dimples” to mark the levels.

On my old boat the diesel dipstick was a wood dowel. I used wraps of wire to indicate 10 gallon divisions, and small notches to show finer divisions. Maybe a bit “ghetto” but it worked a treat for 15 years.

Bill Kinney
SM#160, Harmonie
Brunswick, GA

.


Re: D3-110 Starter Earthing Relay Part Number Request

Dean Gillies
 

Nick, great idea. Do you do anything special to prevent the napkin from moving/falling?

I'm not impressed with the impact of almost two years on the hardstand in Scotland.  I have a bunch of "stuck" systems around the boat needing stripped down or replaced, and it's proving difficult to buy Corrosion-X locally. On the bright side, the weather is fab here right now and my new hybrid lithium/lead power system is working superbly.

Cheers
Dean
SV Stella
A54-154




Re: Blisters under Orange Boot Stripe

Gerhard Hoffmann
 

Hi Olivier & Bill,

Thanks for your replies.  Following the suggestion of Bill, I inspected the area closely and there are micro cracks visible, probably as suggested by Bill from pressure cleaning.  I will sand and repaint at the next haul out.

Thank you Olivier for the detailed info of the fibreglass and gelcoat build up.
Many thanks.

Gerhard Hoffmann
SM381 Pepino
Nea Peramos, Greece


Re: Fuel Stick

Eric Freedman
 

Hi Pat,

I have broken my fuel stick twice and have very successfully repaired it, I am now in the process of repairing it a third time.

Do you have a photo of the broken stick?

 

I have fuel diverter valve which sends new fuel through a Racor filter—Thanks Ian and Judy- through a pump and then into the tank. Zealous crewmembers have broken the stick by not removing it from the tank before turning the diverter valve.

It is an easy permanent fix on Kimbelite. Please send photos and possibly the stick can be repaired.

Fair Winds

ERIC

Kimberlite Amel SM 376,

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Patrick McAneny via groups.io
Sent: Saturday, July 24, 2021 1:55 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Fuel Stick

 

I broke my plastic fuel stick , I am thinking about making one from aluminum bar stock. Is there any reason that would be a problem to use in the fuel tank ?
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans

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