Date   

Rocna 33 anchor- does it fits without modification on Super Maramu 2000

Slavko Despotovic
 

Hello,

after waking at 6 a clock in 30m of water and 200m from shore I have decided to stop fighting original Amel anchor.
on my previous boat I had Delta and it was good for 17 years.
After reading posts and some investigation and possibility of fast delivery I have decided for Rocna 33. What is the latest experience with this anchor (I can have it delivered here in Croatia  in less then week), and does it fit without modification on SM 2000?


Thank you
--
Slavko
SM 2000
#279 Bonne Anse, sailing in Croatia


Re: Sliding ring seal of Calpeda pump

 

Although I have not disassembled one, I am 99% sure that Gianneschi uses a 12mm mechanical seal which is the same seal that Calpeda uses. BTW, the Dessalator Low-Pressure Feed Pump for the D160, or higher, and both the 66b or 88b Reya freshwater pumps have a 12mm mechanical seal. If you have spare seals for any of these, you have a seal that will fit.

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Mon, Jul 26, 2021 at 4:47 AM Martin Birkhoff <mbirkhoff@...> wrote:

Thanks, Bill,

after scratching off the paint which  covered the plastic box of the pump electric connections I figured out that it is labelled Gianneschi s.r.l., type CB 20 ME. 
I think it is more or less identic to the Calpeda pump.

Best regards 

Martin
Mago del Sur - 54#40
currently Fuengirola, Spain

 


Re: Is this a standard addition?

 

Not sure, but that is generally the location of the Amel-installed forward-looking transducer.

I believe the vast majority of SMs of the age of SM 171 have had SOW transducers added because of the failures of the B&G Sonic Speed, however, if this is a SOW transducer, I believe it is a little too far forward.
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sun, Jul 25, 2021 at 10:47 PM Darren Moore <dmjetstar@...> wrote:
Hello,
We were wondering if anyone knows what this setup is, is it usual in a SM?

It appears to have a Airmar transducer in it

Thanks for your help

--
Darren & Karen
SM171
Tradewinds III
Tasmania, Australia


Re: Sliding ring seal of Calpeda pump

Martin Birkhoff
 

Thanks, Bill,

after scratching off the paint which  covered the plastic box of the pump electric connections I figured out that it is labelled Gianneschi s.r.l., type CB 20 ME. 
I think it is more or less identic to the Calpeda pump.

Best regards 

Martin
Mago del Sur - 54#40
currently Fuengirola, Spain

 


Diesel heater install

Darren Moore
 

Hello,

We are looking at installing a Diesel heater to our 1996 Super Maramu

Currently looking at a Wallas Spartan 4.5kw unit which has three in and out ports, we'd like to run a port to the Saloon, main cabin and forward guest cabin

Does anyone have any experience with this heater?

Has any one ran 75mm (3 inch) warm air duct through their boat? did you find any good paths or impossible paths

Kindest regards 
--
Darren & Karen
SM171
Tradewinds III
Tasmania, Australia


Is this a standard addition?

Darren Moore
 

Hello,
We were wondering if anyone knows what this setup is, is it usual in a SM?

It appears to have a Airmar transducer in it

Thanks for your help

--
Darren & Karen
SM171
Tradewinds III
Tasmania, Australia


Re: D3-110 Starter Earthing Relay Part Number Request

Dean Gillies
 

Hi Ruedi,
Thank you for closing that loop for me. It is now clear that the new Volvo part number 872242, is in fact exactly the same Valeo relay suggested below by Dominique.  I have found a source for this relay in the UK which I will order tomorrow.

Trust you and Sabine are well. Will drop you an email offline to catchup.

Best regards
Dean
SV Stella
A54-154 


Re: Seacock for aft head

Patrick McAneny
 

Bill, Mark, I like the idea of a grease fitting , I am contacting the dealer Monday . 
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Sent: Sun, Jul 25, 2021 1:12 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Seacock for aft head

Mark let me know about this valve with a grease fitting about 2 years ago. Since then I have recommended it.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse 
Amel Owners Yacht School
+1 832-380-4970 | brouse@...
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com 
Yacht School Calendar: www.preparetocastoff.blogspot.com/p/calendar.html


   

On Sun, Jul 25, 2021, 10:40 AM Mark & Debbie Mueller <brass.ring@...> wrote:
Take a look at the Groco valve, I used this valve.  It has a grease zerk to keep the valve operating smoothly.  https://www.groco.net/products/valves-seacocks/inline-valves/ibv-series-bspp-thread
--
Mark Mueller
Brass Ring  A54


Re: Engine overheating - Amel54

Mohammad Shirloo
 

Hello David;

 

You are getting some sound advice from others on the forum and any one of them could be your problem.

 

A malfunctioning thermostat, may also present all the symptoms you describe. One simple test would be to remove the thermostat, and see if you have the same issue. If yes, then the thermostat is not your problem. If the engine stays cooler than 80 Celsius and takes a long time to come up to temperature, then the issue s the thermostat.

 

Respectfully;

 

 

Mohammad and Aty

B&B Kokomo

Amel 54 #099

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of David Crisp via groups.io
Sent: Sunday, July 25, 2021 11:59 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Engine overheating - Amel54

 

Hi All,

I've a problem with my engine D3-110i-C engine running hot (it has 1350hrs on the clock)  I'm having to keep the rev's down at 1100RPM of less otherwise the engine temp steadily rises, so that once it gets to 95degC I back of  the revs.

Apart from the temperature gauge, if I let it run hot some steam can be seen in the exhaust.

Another thing I've noticed is some gurlgling noise coming from the cockpit drain - I'm suspicious this is coming from the anti-syphon bleed hose from the exhaust anti-syphon loop.

I've check the sea water intake, the sea-chest strainer, changed the impeller (it was okay), I've bled air out of the top of the sea chest, I've taken the hoses off the exhaust elbow and that appears clear.

Any suggestions?

--
David Crisp
SV Wilna Grace
Amel 54 #58


Re: Engine overheating - Amel54

Mark Erdos
 

David, I am not that familiar with the D3 but I am certain you have a blockage in your raw-water cooling system. Start at the sea chest and work your way along the entire raw-water cooling system ending at the elbow. Remove and clean any heat exchangers (transmission, engine cooling, and after cooler). Check all the hoses to ensure they are clear of debris and ensure the raw-water pump is clean inside. This will solve your issue. Somewhere in the system you will have an “ah ha” moment. It is best to do the entire system since if you have a blockage somewhere, the chances are you’ll have more downstream. Don’t stop at the “ah ha” moment.

 

This is also a good time to replace the seals/o-rings on the heat exchangers as well as any worn hoses.  

 

Hope this helps.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of David Crisp
Sent: Sunday, July 25, 2021 8:59 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Engine overheating - Amel54

 

Hi All,

I've a problem with my engine D3-110i-C engine running hot (it has 1350hrs on the clock)  I'm having to keep the rev's down at 1100RPM of less otherwise the engine temp steadily rises, so that once it gets to 95degC I back of  the revs.

Apart from the temperature gauge, if I let it run hot some steam can be seen in the exhaust.

Another thing I've noticed is some gurlgling noise coming from the cockpit drain - I'm suspicious this is coming from the anti-syphon bleed hose from the exhaust anti-syphon loop.

I've check the sea water intake, the sea-chest strainer, changed the impeller (it was okay), I've bled air out of the top of the sea chest, I've taken the hoses off the exhaust elbow and that appears clear.

Any suggestions?

--
David Crisp
SV Wilna Grace
Amel 54 #58


Re: D3-110 Starter Earthing Relay Part Number Request

Rudolf Waldispuehl
 

Hi Dean

On my A54-55 the Mass-Relais has the Number 860877-0. I ordered a new one at GWEN Marine in France and got the message that the new number is 872242. 

Generally most or all Volvo Penta dealers are not aware of this Relais and don’t know it. They can’t find the number in their parts list. It seems to be an Amel specific Volvo part and can not be order at SAV neither. GWEN Marine is the Volvo dealer in France who delivers most VP to AMEL. 

I have done some research on specific VP Parts for the AMEL D3-110 (Sensor, etc) and will send out to the Forum a list & information about it when I’m back on my computer Tuesday 27.7. (the specified Relais is one of these parts).
 
If it’s urgent for you Dean, I can try to send you something (picture and order info) in a separate e-mail or whatsup. I’m traveling right now w/o my laptop and have limited access. Just trop a msg on my whatsup phone # is +41794018847

Best regards
Ruedi
WASABI A54-55 
Valencia 

Von meinem iPad gesendet

Am 25.07.2021 um 15:54 schrieb ngtnewington Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington@...>:

I use a thick napkin that sort of stays in place. I just check it as I do the oil dip stick and general running checks.
Last year there were a few crystals. I decided to buy a new pump and kit. 
I fitted the new pump and serviced the old with new bearings and seals. Eventually the shaft will get a wear groove. One can buy a new shaft too, if required.
Nick
S/Y Amelia
Northern Sporades



On 25 Jul 2021, at 15:17, Dean Gillies <stella@...> wrote:



Nick, great idea. Do you do anything special to prevent the napkin from moving/falling?

I'm not impressed with the impact of almost two years on the hardstand in Scotland.  I have a bunch of "stuck" systems around the boat needing stripped down or replaced, and it's proving difficult to buy Corrosion-X locally. On the bright side, the weather is fab here right now and my new hybrid lithium/lead power system is working superbly.

Cheers
Dean
SV Stella
A54-154




Re: Engine overheating - Amel54

 

You should hear gurgling.

Here is a snippet from my book, My guess is that there is debris on the front end of the ZF transmission oil cooler. Read and do this cleaning and let me know.
image.png
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sun, Jul 25, 2021 at 1:59 PM David Crisp <david@...> wrote:
Hi All,

I've a problem with my engine D3-110i-C engine running hot (it has 1350hrs on the clock)  I'm having to keep the rev's down at 1100RPM of less otherwise the engine temp steadily rises, so that once it gets to 95degC I back of  the revs.

Apart from the temperature gauge, if I let it run hot some steam can be seen in the exhaust.

Another thing I've noticed is some gurlgling noise coming from the cockpit drain - I'm suspicious this is coming from the anti-syphon bleed hose from the exhaust anti-syphon loop.

I've check the sea water intake, the sea-chest strainer, changed the impeller (it was okay), I've bled air out of the top of the sea chest, I've taken the hoses off the exhaust elbow and that appears clear.

Any suggestions?

--
David Crisp
SV Wilna Grace
Amel 54 #58


Engine overheating - Amel54

David Crisp
 

Hi All,

I've a problem with my engine D3-110i-C engine running hot (it has 1350hrs on the clock)  I'm having to keep the rev's down at 1100RPM of less otherwise the engine temp steadily rises, so that once it gets to 95degC I back of  the revs.

Apart from the temperature gauge, if I let it run hot some steam can be seen in the exhaust.

Another thing I've noticed is some gurlgling noise coming from the cockpit drain - I'm suspicious this is coming from the anti-syphon bleed hose from the exhaust anti-syphon loop.

I've check the sea water intake, the sea-chest strainer, changed the impeller (it was okay), I've bled air out of the top of the sea chest, I've taken the hoses off the exhaust elbow and that appears clear.

Any suggestions?

--
David Crisp
SV Wilna Grace
Amel 54 #58


Re: Seacock for aft head

 

Mark let me know about this valve with a grease fitting about 2 years ago. Since then I have recommended it.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse 
Amel Owners Yacht School
+1 832-380-4970 | brouse@...
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com 
Yacht School Calendar: www.preparetocastoff.blogspot.com/p/calendar.html


   

On Sun, Jul 25, 2021, 10:40 AM Mark & Debbie Mueller <brass.ring@...> wrote:
Take a look at the Groco valve, I used this valve.  It has a grease zerk to keep the valve operating smoothly.  https://www.groco.net/products/valves-seacocks/inline-valves/ibv-series-bspp-thread
--
Mark Mueller
Brass Ring  A54


Re: Seacock for aft head

Dan Carlson
 

Here is what I purchase and replaced the forward head seacock with.


Best regards, Daniel Carlson on sv BeBe, SM #387

On Sat, Jul 24, 2021, 9:35 AM Patrick McAneny via groups.io <sailw32=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
I need to replace my seacock in the aft head ,could someone confirm the size I need ,I believe it to be 1 1/4" NPT , but not sure and I want to purchase it prior to taking the old one out ,as my boat is in the water.
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans #123
Sassafras River, Md.


Re: Fuel Stick

Patrick McAneny
 

Bill, Thanks, I should have looked at your book first. My boat is on a my mooring where we live ,it has not been in a slip more than a dozen days in 16 years. 
Thanks Again,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Sent: Sun, Jul 25, 2021 11:37 am
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Fuel Stick

Pat,

Normally, you will find a large yellow/green wire bolted to either the C-Drive cross-bar or to the engine iron frame. Since everything is electrically connected the bonding wire protects all that is bolted together down to the propeller.

See the use of a test lamp to check for a Positive or Negative Start Battery leak in the attached page from my Amel Book.
The fact that the zincs are dissolving is good. This means that the zinc anodes are protecting metal superior to zinc. Possibly your zincs are depleting because of a nearby boat or dock which is wired incorrectly or a nearby metal boat that is not correctly protected.

Anyway, my 2 cents.
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sun, Jul 25, 2021 at 9:04 AM Patrick McAneny via groups.io <sailw32=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Bill, I never connected a bonding wire to the motor case ,so maybe that is not my source/problem. I would thought only to bond metal parts that are in contact to the sea water on a regular basis. I just replaced the shaft seal this week and did see a little corrosion on the motor casing. Is there instruction somewhere on how to use a multi meter to detect a leak? 
Thanks,
Pat


-----Original Message-----
From: CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Sent: Sat, Jul 24, 2021 6:06 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Fuel Stick

Pat,

Sorry, I did not answer your question. What happens inside the macerator pump when the seal starts leaking is saltwater gets into the motor wiring and inside the motor case. 

With the electric toilet Flush/Empty switches in the OFF position, the negative of the 24v house bank is still connected to the motor. Only the positive wire is switched with the switches. The saltwater creates continuity between the negative and the motor case. The bonding wire is connected to the motor case. Saltwater bridges the bonding to the negative side of the house bank and you have a negative leak.

You would only have a positive leak when the motor is energized by the switch.

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sat, Jul 24, 2021 at 4:57 PM Patrick McAneny via groups.io <sailw32=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Bill, Yes that is what I remember you said, but I was wondering if that leak only occurred while being operated. I assume that the electric current travels thru the water in the intake hose to the sea and would be broken once the hose was empty of sea water ?? I wish my boat came with the Mass. Is there somewhere in the file section that explains how to detect a leak using a volt meter. I am not sure I have done it correctly in the past.
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Sent: Sat, Jul 24, 2021 3:36 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Fuel Stick

Pat,

I probably did not make myself clear regarding the electric toilets. I later model SMs and all models from the 54 onward, Amel installed a current leak detector (MASS). It is a small toggle switch and LED which will test for a connection between the house bank positive and Bonding as well as the house bank negative and bonding.

When a failure is indicated by the LED, it is almost always caused by a failed seal on the macerator pump on the toilet, unless of course if someone has made some change or addition to the wiring anywhere on the boat.

This is what it looks like on a 54:
image.png

Snippet from my book:
image.png

In your case without the Amel-designed testing device, I think you can do this to see if you have a leak...finding it will be another chapter...let me know.
image.png
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sat, Jul 24, 2021 at 2:13 PM Patrick McAneny via groups.io <sailw32=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Bill , That is why I asked, I thought it may present a problem . I suppose I could cap the end or keep it out of the tank and store it elsewhere. 
You may remember that I have been eating up my zincs faster than normal. You have said that the electric toilets are a source of electrical leak. Does that occur only when you run it ,have the switch on? Maybe I should email yo direct or put it a new thread.
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Sent: Sat, Jul 24, 2021 2:59 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Fuel Stick

The reason you should not is that your SM tank is made of 316 stainless steel. You will get dissimilar metal corrosion where the stick touches the tank...worse case is that the corrosion will penetrate the tank.

The above is not true with later model tanks beginning with the 54 that are made of aluminum.

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sat, Jul 24, 2021 at 1:55 PM Patrick McAneny via groups.io <sailw32=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
I broke my plastic fuel stick , I am thinking about making one from aluminum bar stock. Is there any reason that would be a problem to use in the fuel tank ?
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


Re: Seacock for aft head

Mark & Debbie Mueller
 

Take a look at the Groco valve, I used this valve.  It has a grease zerk to keep the valve operating smoothly.  https://www.groco.net/products/valves-seacocks/inline-valves/ibv-series-bspp-thread
--
Mark Mueller
Brass Ring  A54


Re: Fuel Stick

 

Pat,

Normally, you will find a large yellow/green wire bolted to either the C-Drive cross-bar or to the engine iron frame. Since everything is electrically connected the bonding wire protects all that is bolted together down to the propeller.

See the use of a test lamp to check for a Positive or Negative Start Battery leak in the attached page from my Amel Book.
The fact that the zincs are dissolving is good. This means that the zinc anodes are protecting metal superior to zinc. Possibly your zincs are depleting because of a nearby boat or dock which is wired incorrectly or a nearby metal boat that is not correctly protected.

Anyway, my 2 cents.
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sun, Jul 25, 2021 at 9:04 AM Patrick McAneny via groups.io <sailw32=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Bill, I never connected a bonding wire to the motor case ,so maybe that is not my source/problem. I would thought only to bond metal parts that are in contact to the sea water on a regular basis. I just replaced the shaft seal this week and did see a little corrosion on the motor casing. Is there instruction somewhere on how to use a multi meter to detect a leak? 
Thanks,
Pat


-----Original Message-----
From: CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Sent: Sat, Jul 24, 2021 6:06 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Fuel Stick

Pat,

Sorry, I did not answer your question. What happens inside the macerator pump when the seal starts leaking is saltwater gets into the motor wiring and inside the motor case. 

With the electric toilet Flush/Empty switches in the OFF position, the negative of the 24v house bank is still connected to the motor. Only the positive wire is switched with the switches. The saltwater creates continuity between the negative and the motor case. The bonding wire is connected to the motor case. Saltwater bridges the bonding to the negative side of the house bank and you have a negative leak.

You would only have a positive leak when the motor is energized by the switch.

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
+1 832-380-4970 | brouse@...
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sat, Jul 24, 2021 at 4:57 PM Patrick McAneny via groups.io <sailw32=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Bill, Yes that is what I remember you said, but I was wondering if that leak only occurred while being operated. I assume that the electric current travels thru the water in the intake hose to the sea and would be broken once the hose was empty of sea water ?? I wish my boat came with the Mass. Is there somewhere in the file section that explains how to detect a leak using a volt meter. I am not sure I have done it correctly in the past.
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Sent: Sat, Jul 24, 2021 3:36 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Fuel Stick

Pat,

I probably did not make myself clear regarding the electric toilets. I later model SMs and all models from the 54 onward, Amel installed a current leak detector (MASS). It is a small toggle switch and LED which will test for a connection between the house bank positive and Bonding as well as the house bank negative and bonding.

When a failure is indicated by the LED, it is almost always caused by a failed seal on the macerator pump on the toilet, unless of course if someone has made some change or addition to the wiring anywhere on the boat.

This is what it looks like on a 54:
image.png

Snippet from my book:
image.png

In your case without the Amel-designed testing device, I think you can do this to see if you have a leak...finding it will be another chapter...let me know.
image.png
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
+1 832-380-4970 | brouse@...
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sat, Jul 24, 2021 at 2:13 PM Patrick McAneny via groups.io <sailw32=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Bill , That is why I asked, I thought it may present a problem . I suppose I could cap the end or keep it out of the tank and store it elsewhere. 
You may remember that I have been eating up my zincs faster than normal. You have said that the electric toilets are a source of electrical leak. Does that occur only when you run it ,have the switch on? Maybe I should email yo direct or put it a new thread.
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Sent: Sat, Jul 24, 2021 2:59 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Fuel Stick

The reason you should not is that your SM tank is made of 316 stainless steel. You will get dissimilar metal corrosion where the stick touches the tank...worse case is that the corrosion will penetrate the tank.

The above is not true with later model tanks beginning with the 54 that are made of aluminum.

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
+1 832-380-4970 | brouse@...
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sat, Jul 24, 2021 at 1:55 PM Patrick McAneny via groups.io <sailw32=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
I broke my plastic fuel stick , I am thinking about making one from aluminum bar stock. Is there any reason that would be a problem to use in the fuel tank ?
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


Re: Fuel Stick

Patrick McAneny
 

Bill, I never connected a bonding wire to the motor case ,so maybe that is not my source/problem. I would thought only to bond metal parts that are in contact to the sea water on a regular basis. I just replaced the shaft seal this week and did see a little corrosion on the motor casing. Is there instruction somewhere on how to use a multi meter to detect a leak? 
Thanks,
Pat


-----Original Message-----
From: CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Sent: Sat, Jul 24, 2021 6:06 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Fuel Stick

Pat,

Sorry, I did not answer your question. What happens inside the macerator pump when the seal starts leaking is saltwater gets into the motor wiring and inside the motor case. 

With the electric toilet Flush/Empty switches in the OFF position, the negative of the 24v house bank is still connected to the motor. Only the positive wire is switched with the switches. The saltwater creates continuity between the negative and the motor case. The bonding wire is connected to the motor case. Saltwater bridges the bonding to the negative side of the house bank and you have a negative leak.

You would only have a positive leak when the motor is energized by the switch.

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sat, Jul 24, 2021 at 4:57 PM Patrick McAneny via groups.io <sailw32=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Bill, Yes that is what I remember you said, but I was wondering if that leak only occurred while being operated. I assume that the electric current travels thru the water in the intake hose to the sea and would be broken once the hose was empty of sea water ?? I wish my boat came with the Mass. Is there somewhere in the file section that explains how to detect a leak using a volt meter. I am not sure I have done it correctly in the past.
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Sent: Sat, Jul 24, 2021 3:36 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Fuel Stick

Pat,

I probably did not make myself clear regarding the electric toilets. I later model SMs and all models from the 54 onward, Amel installed a current leak detector (MASS). It is a small toggle switch and LED which will test for a connection between the house bank positive and Bonding as well as the house bank negative and bonding.

When a failure is indicated by the LED, it is almost always caused by a failed seal on the macerator pump on the toilet, unless of course if someone has made some change or addition to the wiring anywhere on the boat.

This is what it looks like on a 54:
image.png

Snippet from my book:
image.png

In your case without the Amel-designed testing device, I think you can do this to see if you have a leak...finding it will be another chapter...let me know.
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CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sat, Jul 24, 2021 at 2:13 PM Patrick McAneny via groups.io <sailw32=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Bill , That is why I asked, I thought it may present a problem . I suppose I could cap the end or keep it out of the tank and store it elsewhere. 
You may remember that I have been eating up my zincs faster than normal. You have said that the electric toilets are a source of electrical leak. Does that occur only when you run it ,have the switch on? Maybe I should email yo direct or put it a new thread.
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Sent: Sat, Jul 24, 2021 2:59 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Fuel Stick

The reason you should not is that your SM tank is made of 316 stainless steel. You will get dissimilar metal corrosion where the stick touches the tank...worse case is that the corrosion will penetrate the tank.

The above is not true with later model tanks beginning with the 54 that are made of aluminum.

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sat, Jul 24, 2021 at 1:55 PM Patrick McAneny via groups.io <sailw32=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
I broke my plastic fuel stick , I am thinking about making one from aluminum bar stock. Is there any reason that would be a problem to use in the fuel tank ?
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


Re: D3-110 Starter Earthing Relay Part Number Request

Nick Newington
 

I use a thick napkin that sort of stays in place. I just check it as I do the oil dip stick and general running checks.
Last year there were a few crystals. I decided to buy a new pump and kit. 
I fitted the new pump and serviced the old with new bearings and seals. Eventually the shaft will get a wear groove. One can buy a new shaft too, if required.
Nick
S/Y Amelia
Northern Sporades



On 25 Jul 2021, at 15:17, Dean Gillies <stella@...> wrote:



Nick, great idea. Do you do anything special to prevent the napkin from moving/falling?

I'm not impressed with the impact of almost two years on the hardstand in Scotland.  I have a bunch of "stuck" systems around the boat needing stripped down or replaced, and it's proving difficult to buy Corrosion-X locally. On the bright side, the weather is fab here right now and my new hybrid lithium/lead power system is working superbly.

Cheers
Dean
SV Stella
A54-154



1941 - 1960 of 61098