Date   

Onan code 3 subcode 4-1

Jeff Williams
 

Hi All,
My Onan is acting up.  Can anyone recommend a good Onan guy?  I'm near Pilos on the west side of the Peloponnise in Greece.
I will head to Athens if I need to but would prefer to fix it sooner if possible.  
Thanks!
Jeff 
s/v Spruzzo SM#379


Re: Onan Generator Exhaust thru hull

Bill Kinney
 

Ritchie,

When Amel designed their boats they had a number of criteria.  First (second and third!) it had to be robust and safe.  Fourth, it had to be easy to build.  Somewhere further down the list was the ease of long term maintenance.  One of the examples of this is the glueing in exhaust hoses. Of course all rubber hoses have a finite life, and need to be replaced--eventually.  The Amel design is a great system, right up until it is time to replace the hose...

I don't have the specifics of the design of the generator exhaust hose attachment to the hull, I suspect a search through the archives will find some information, although I think most discussions have centered more on the engine exhaust which is more complex. Like here: #19663  

If you end up adding a thru-hull fitting because rebuilding the original system is too complex, use a bronze fitting, be sure it is attached to the bonding system, and use a flush mounted fitting so nothing protrudes from the hull.  

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Brunswick, GA


Onan Generator Exhaust thru hull

Richie Whyte
 

Hi All
I am in the middle of a mini refit and I’d like to check something with those of you that know better. My Onan generator exhaust seems to flow into a reinforced rubber hose and from that it eventually goes out through the hole in the side of the boat. This hose is siliconed in place. The silicone is perished and the whole setup feels like a forgotten running repair to me - there is no proper thruhull as can be seen from the pic. Is this as it should be and if not do you know what should be here instead?
Many thanks

Richie

Richie Whyte
Why Knot (formerly GUMA)
SM2K#261
On the hard, Kos Marina
Kos, Greece


Re: Intermittent starting issue

Patrick McAneny
 

Eric, I have a Volvo TMD22A , the engine itself has been great , it generally starts the second I turn the key. 
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: eric freedman <kimberlite@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Sent: Wed, Jul 28, 2021 6:03 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Intermittent starting issue

Hi Pat,
What engine do you have?
Fair Winds
Eric
Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
 
 
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io On Behalf Of Patrick McAneny via groups.io
Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2021 8:27 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Intermittent starting issue
 
Eric , I agree there are many connections ,contact points and faults in wiring ,any one of which could be responsible for a starting problem. I also occasionally have an issue , where the engine does not shut down when I turn the key. I wish I better understood the electrical system , its a bit complex for me to trouble shoot sometimes. If it were possible to find a competent mechanic nearby ,I would gladly hire him for a day to assess my systems.
Pat
SM Shenanigans

-----Original Message-----
From: eric freedman <kimberlite@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Sent: Wed, Jul 28, 2021 4:08 am
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Intermittent starting issue
There are a umber of things that can cause intermittent starting issues. The Valeo solenoid requires a lot of current to close it.
 
One ghost I found was behind the panel on my Yanmar. For some reason Amel installed a butt connector in the start wiring circuit. When you turn the key, everything works and the Valeo solenoid tries to close. After removing the butt connector and soldering the wires that issue went away. There are a lot of goblins in the starting circuit.
Fair Winds
Eric
Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
 
 
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io On Behalf Of Bill Kinney
Sent: Wednesday, July 14, 2021 10:23 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Intermittent starting issue
 
Pat,

Intermittent failures can be such… fun.

If I understand correctly, when you have this issue with starting, the blowers do not run as well.  That narrows down the likely causes quite a bit.  

The key switch, or the wiring around it would be my prime suspect, although it could be other things too.  12V power comes from the engine, up to the key switch.  When the switch is “ON” the power is sent back to the engine, and to the relays that turn on the blowers.  If the blowers and the starter are showing common failure, then the fault must be before the wires divide on the positive side, or maybe after they come together on the negative side back to the battery.

Another place to look is the isolating relay in the ground wire.  If that is intermittent in operation, or has bad contacts, to could interrupt the circuit on the return side.  I think this is unlikely, because the blower negative return is connected on the battery side of this. Other than those two, its a matter of pulling and cleaning connections to be sure contact is good.

Key switches on both Volvo and Yanmar panels are not 100% waterproof, maybe a bit less so with the key left in.  A drop or two of salt water inside, and things can get unreliable. I have never disassembled one to clean it, although I have replaced them.

Bill Kinney
SM Harmonie
Brunswick, GA, USA


Re: Rocna 33 anchor- does it fits without modification on Super Maramu 2000

Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy)
 

Hi Slavko,

We use the 40kg (88lb) Rocna on our 1990 SM#23. It's a great anchor that has never let us down and fits well on our bow roller. We use with 3/8" G4 chain and no swivel. My advice is the same as others have already said, go bigger, go for the 40kg.

I helped fit the 40kg on another Super Maramu (PITU) earlier this year. It fit well. I don't recall the hull number but PITU's bow roller was different than ours.

We've been on anchor in Opua, NZ since January 2020. The only issue we've had is other yachts dragging into us during strong easterly storms.

We also rode out cyclone Sarai at Big Mama's Yacht Club while in Tonga. Sustained 65kts, gusts over 70kts, our 88lb Rocna didn't budge. This included a 180deg reversal in wind direction as the Low center passed right over us. We did have a second anchor out (65lb CQR) taking some of the strain and reducing veer, but the Rocna was doing the primary holding. A good test and confidence builder that I'm in no rush to repeat :-)

We've used the 40kg Rocna since leaving New England in 2017. We spend the vast majority of our time on anchor. The Rocna got us all the way to NZ and continues to hold strong. Long story short... I highly recommend this anchor.

Cheers,
Mike Longcor
SV Trilogy SM#23
Opua, NZ


On Tue, Jul 27, 2021, 1:16 AM Slavko Despotovic <slavko@...> wrote:

Hello,

after waking at 6 a clock in 30m of water and 200m from shore I have decided to stop fighting original Amel anchor.
on my previous boat I had Delta and it was good for 17 years.
After reading posts and some investigation and possibility of fast delivery I have decided for Rocna 33. What is the latest experience with this anchor (I can have it delivered here in Croatia  in less then week), and does it fit without modification on SM 2000?


Thank you
--
Slavko
SM 2000
#279 Bonne Anse, sailing in Croatia


Re: Intermittent starting issue

Eric Freedman
 

Hi Pat,

What engine do you have?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io On Behalf Of Patrick McAneny via groups.io
Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2021 8:27 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Intermittent starting issue

 

Eric , I agree there are many connections ,contact points and faults in wiring ,any one of which could be responsible for a starting problem. I also occasionally have an issue , where the engine does not shut down when I turn the key. I wish I better understood the electrical system , its a bit complex for me to trouble shoot sometimes. If it were possible to find a competent mechanic nearby ,I would gladly hire him for a day to assess my systems.

Pat

SM Shenanigans

-----Original Message-----
From: eric freedman <kimberlite@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Sent: Wed, Jul 28, 2021 4:08 am
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Intermittent starting issue

There are a umber of things that can cause intermittent starting issues. The Valeo solenoid requires a lot of current to close it.

 

One ghost I found was behind the panel on my Yanmar. For some reason Amel installed a butt connector in the start wiring circuit. When you turn the key, everything works and the Valeo solenoid tries to close. After removing the butt connector and soldering the wires that issue went away. There are a lot of goblins in the starting circuit.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io On Behalf Of Bill Kinney
Sent: Wednesday, July 14, 2021 10:23 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Intermittent starting issue

 

Pat,

Intermittent failures can be such… fun.

If I understand correctly, when you have this issue with starting, the blowers do not run as well.  That narrows down the likely causes quite a bit.  

The key switch, or the wiring around it would be my prime suspect, although it could be other things too.  12V power comes from the engine, up to the key switch.  When the switch is “ON” the power is sent back to the engine, and to the relays that turn on the blowers.  If the blowers and the starter are showing common failure, then the fault must be before the wires divide on the positive side, or maybe after they come together on the negative side back to the battery.

Another place to look is the isolating relay in the ground wire.  If that is intermittent in operation, or has bad contacts, to could interrupt the circuit on the return side.  I think this is unlikely, because the blower negative return is connected on the battery side of this. Other than those two, its a matter of pulling and cleaning connections to be sure contact is good.

Key switches on both Volvo and Yanmar panels are not 100% waterproof, maybe a bit less so with the key left in.  A drop or two of salt water inside, and things can get unreliable. I have never disassembled one to clean it, although I have replaced them.

Bill Kinney
SM Harmonie
Brunswick, GA, USA


Re: Engine overheating - Amel54

 


image.png

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar

On Wed, Jul 28, 2021 at 2:01 PM Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...> wrote:

Hi David, you can check/clean the sea chest inlet in the water. Take the top off, have a rod/tube of suitable diameter and length ready. Turn the seacock on and run the rod up and down. Takes a few seconds, turn the seacock off. Water does flow in but in the time you have it open it is not a problem. Shell fish like oysters and mussels love to grow in the tube.

Regards

Danny

SM 299 Ocean Pearl

On 29 July 2021 at 01:22 David Crisp <david@...> wrote:

All,

The problem turned out to be the transmission oil cooler which was 3/4 blocked.  The gurgling has stopped - I'm pretty sure this was the exhaust anti-syphon pipe sucking in air because of the upstream blockage.

Thanks for all the advice, really grateful.

Interestingly, now sea water can flow at full rate, when I rev the engine to over 2,000 to engage the alternator the sea chest alarm sounds, so at least I know that works!  I'm hauling out next week and will give the sea chest inlet a thorough check and clean out.
--
David Crisp
SV Wilna Grace
Amel 54 #58


Re: Engine overheating - Amel54

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi David, you can check/clean the sea chest inlet in the water. Take the top off, have a rod/tube of suitable diameter and length ready. Turn the seacock on and run the rod up and down. Takes a few seconds, turn the seacock off. Water does flow in but in the time you have it open it is not a problem. Shell fish like oysters and mussels love to grow in the tube.

Regards

Danny

SM 299 Ocean Pearl

On 29 July 2021 at 01:22 David Crisp <david@...> wrote:

All,

The problem turned out to be the transmission oil cooler which was 3/4 blocked.  The gurgling has stopped - I'm pretty sure this was the exhaust anti-syphon pipe sucking in air because of the upstream blockage.

Thanks for all the advice, really grateful.

Interestingly, now sea water can flow at full rate, when I rev the engine to over 2,000 to engage the alternator the sea chest alarm sounds, so at least I know that works!  I'm hauling out next week and will give the sea chest inlet a thorough check and clean out.
--
David Crisp
SV Wilna Grace
Amel 54 #58


Re: Engine overheating - Amel54

Ulrich Michael Dangelmeyer
 

Yes Dimitris 
And once per season at least you should shallow your circuit with 5 litres of white vinegar over Night... that bursts the dirt off next morning, promised!
Ulrich Michael 
„Soleil Bleu“ A54#088
Leros Greece.


Am 28.07.2021 um 21:30 schrieb Dimitris Krasopoulos <dkrasopoulos@...>:

I had the same the main problem is the sea water cooled refrigerators they circulate all the time through the sea chest and clog all the systems. This is a difficult problem which can be sold by the fresh water tank circulation for cooling the compressors if the refrigerators.

Στάλθηκε από το iPhone of Dimitris Krasopoulos 
Alma Libre Too
AMEL 54

On Jul 28, 2021, at 5:38 PM, Randall Walker <sailingalbedo@...> wrote:


David,
Does your sea chest look like this picture. I was in Gib and the hull was very clean with no scrapping required. But after just a few months this happened.
And it can migrate through the whole cooling system. I have started doing regular flushing with mild hydrochloric solution, similar to Barnacle buster. 
Yes I was shocked how quickly it formed.”

Randall
A54#56
<IMG_4618.jpeg>

On Wed, Jul 28, 2021 at 09:22 David Crisp <david@...> wrote:
All,

The problem turned out to be the transmission oil cooler which was 3/4 blocked.  The gurgling has stopped - I'm pretty sure this was the exhaust anti-syphon pipe sucking in air because of the upstream blockage.

Thanks for all the advice, really grateful.

Interestingly, now sea water can flow at full rate, when I rev the engine to over 2,000 to engage the alternator the sea chest alarm sounds, so at least I know that works!  I'm hauling out next week and will give the sea chest inlet a thorough check and clean out.
--
David Crisp
SV Wilna Grace
Amel 54 #58


Re: Engine overheating - Amel54

Dimitris Krasopoulos
 

I had the same the main problem is the sea water cooled refrigerators they circulate all the time through the sea chest and clog all the systems. This is a difficult problem which can be sold by the fresh water tank circulation for cooling the compressors if the refrigerators.

Στάλθηκε από το iPhone of Dimitris Krasopoulos 
Alma Libre Too
AMEL 54

On Jul 28, 2021, at 5:38 PM, Randall Walker <sailingalbedo@...> wrote:


David,
Does your sea chest look like this picture. I was in Gib and the hull was very clean with no scrapping required. But after just a few months this happened.
And it can migrate through the whole cooling system. I have started doing regular flushing with mild hydrochloric solution, similar to Barnacle buster. 
Yes I was shocked how quickly it formed.”

Randall
A54#56
<IMG_4618.jpeg>

On Wed, Jul 28, 2021 at 09:22 David Crisp <david@...> wrote:
All,

The problem turned out to be the transmission oil cooler which was 3/4 blocked.  The gurgling has stopped - I'm pretty sure this was the exhaust anti-syphon pipe sucking in air because of the upstream blockage.

Thanks for all the advice, really grateful.

Interestingly, now sea water can flow at full rate, when I rev the engine to over 2,000 to engage the alternator the sea chest alarm sounds, so at least I know that works!  I'm hauling out next week and will give the sea chest inlet a thorough check and clean out.
--
David Crisp
SV Wilna Grace
Amel 54 #58


Re: Engine overheating - Amel54

Randall Walker
 

David,
Does your sea chest look like this picture. I was in Gib and the hull was very clean with no scrapping required. But after just a few months this happened.
And it can migrate through the whole cooling system. I have started doing regular flushing with mild hydrochloric solution, similar to Barnacle buster. 
Yes I was shocked how quickly it formed.”

Randall
A54#56

On Wed, Jul 28, 2021 at 09:22 David Crisp <david@...> wrote:
All,

The problem turned out to be the transmission oil cooler which was 3/4 blocked.  The gurgling has stopped - I'm pretty sure this was the exhaust anti-syphon pipe sucking in air because of the upstream blockage.

Thanks for all the advice, really grateful.

Interestingly, now sea water can flow at full rate, when I rev the engine to over 2,000 to engage the alternator the sea chest alarm sounds, so at least I know that works!  I'm hauling out next week and will give the sea chest inlet a thorough check and clean out.
--
David Crisp
SV Wilna Grace
Amel 54 #58


Re: Engine overheating - Amel54

David Crisp
 

All,

The problem turned out to be the transmission oil cooler which was 3/4 blocked.  The gurgling has stopped - I'm pretty sure this was the exhaust anti-syphon pipe sucking in air because of the upstream blockage.

Thanks for all the advice, really grateful.

Interestingly, now sea water can flow at full rate, when I rev the engine to over 2,000 to engage the alternator the sea chest alarm sounds, so at least I know that works!  I'm hauling out next week and will give the sea chest inlet a thorough check and clean out.
--
David Crisp
SV Wilna Grace
Amel 54 #58


Re: Fuel Stick

Aras Grinius
 

My dip stick is made of monel.  You could use a similar non-metalic substance.

Aras
Sharki #163 1988


On Sat, Jul 24, 2021 at 2:55 PM Patrick McAneny via groups.io <sailw32=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
I broke my plastic fuel stick , I am thinking about making one from aluminum bar stock. Is there any reason that would be a problem to use in the fuel tank ?
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans



--
Aras Grinius


Re: Intermittent starting issue

Patrick McAneny
 

Eric , I agree there are many connections ,contact points and faults in wiring ,any one of which could be responsible for a starting problem. I also occasionally have an issue , where the engine does not shut down when I turn the key. I wish I better understood the electrical system , its a bit complex for me to trouble shoot sometimes. If it were possible to find a competent mechanic nearby ,I would gladly hire him for a day to assess my systems.
Pat
SM Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: eric freedman <kimberlite@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Sent: Wed, Jul 28, 2021 4:08 am
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Intermittent starting issue

There are a umber of things that can cause intermittent starting issues. The Valeo solenoid requires a lot of current to close it.
 
One ghost I found was behind the panel on my Yanmar. For some reason Amel installed a butt connector in the start wiring circuit. When you turn the key, everything works and the Valeo solenoid tries to close. After removing the butt connector and soldering the wires that issue went away. There are a lot of goblins in the starting circuit.
Fair Winds
Eric
Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
 
 
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io On Behalf Of Bill Kinney
Sent: Wednesday, July 14, 2021 10:23 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Intermittent starting issue
 
Pat,

Intermittent failures can be such… fun.

If I understand correctly, when you have this issue with starting, the blowers do not run as well.  That narrows down the likely causes quite a bit.  

The key switch, or the wiring around it would be my prime suspect, although it could be other things too.  12V power comes from the engine, up to the key switch.  When the switch is “ON” the power is sent back to the engine, and to the relays that turn on the blowers.  If the blowers and the starter are showing common failure, then the fault must be before the wires divide on the positive side, or maybe after they come together on the negative side back to the battery.

Another place to look is the isolating relay in the ground wire.  If that is intermittent in operation, or has bad contacts, to could interrupt the circuit on the return side.  I think this is unlikely, because the blower negative return is connected on the battery side of this. Other than those two, its a matter of pulling and cleaning connections to be sure contact is good.

Key switches on both Volvo and Yanmar panels are not 100% waterproof, maybe a bit less so with the key left in.  A drop or two of salt water inside, and things can get unreliable. I have never disassembled one to clean it, although I have replaced them.

Bill Kinney
SM Harmonie
Brunswick, GA, USA


Re: Intermittent starting issue

Eric Freedman
 

There are a umber of things that can cause intermittent starting issues. The Valeo solenoid requires a lot of current to close it.

 

One ghost I found was behind the panel on my Yanmar. For some reason Amel installed a butt connector in the start wiring circuit. When you turn the key, everything works and the Valeo solenoid tries to close. After removing the butt connector and soldering the wires that issue went away. There are a lot of goblins in the starting circuit.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io On Behalf Of Bill Kinney
Sent: Wednesday, July 14, 2021 10:23 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Intermittent starting issue

 

Pat,

Intermittent failures can be such… fun.

If I understand correctly, when you have this issue with starting, the blowers do not run as well.  That narrows down the likely causes quite a bit.  

The key switch, or the wiring around it would be my prime suspect, although it could be other things too.  12V power comes from the engine, up to the key switch.  When the switch is “ON” the power is sent back to the engine, and to the relays that turn on the blowers.  If the blowers and the starter are showing common failure, then the fault must be before the wires divide on the positive side, or maybe after they come together on the negative side back to the battery.

Another place to look is the isolating relay in the ground wire.  If that is intermittent in operation, or has bad contacts, to could interrupt the circuit on the return side.  I think this is unlikely, because the blower negative return is connected on the battery side of this. Other than those two, its a matter of pulling and cleaning connections to be sure contact is good.

Key switches on both Volvo and Yanmar panels are not 100% waterproof, maybe a bit less so with the key left in.  A drop or two of salt water inside, and things can get unreliable. I have never disassembled one to clean it, although I have replaced them.

Bill Kinney
SM Harmonie
Brunswick, GA, USA


Re: Rocna 33 anchor- does it fits without modification on Super Maramu 2000

Patrick McAneny
 

MY Rocna 33 held my boat and a 47 ft. Cat that drug into us at 4 am . in Guadeloupe ,his anchor slid up my chain and stopped at the bow . The Rocna held us both for an hour in 30 Kts. before finally breaking free. I was impressed , but I would probably go for the 40 ,just for a added margin of safety.
Good Luck,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: Dominique Sery via groups.io <dominiquesery@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Sent: Tue, Jul 27, 2021 10:17 am
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Rocna 33 anchor- does it fits without modification on Super Maramu 2000

Hello, after having had some inconvenience with the original 30 kg Wasi anchor (I have skidded several times although i put a lot of chain), I chose to use a 55 kg Rocna anchor.  It may seem too big but for 3 years now the anchor has never loosened even with 50 knots winds.  It fits perfectly into the bow roller of the Amel 54 which is the same as that of the latest Supermaramu, i think.
When the wind blows strong at anchor, it is safe to have an oversized anchor that will not fail. You sleep better at night.
Dominique
Irko A54-16


Re: Rocna 33 anchor- does it fits without modification on Super Maramu 2000

Dominique Sery
 

Hello, after having had some inconvenience with the original 30 kg Wasi anchor (I have skidded several times although i put a lot of chain), I chose to use a 55 kg Rocna anchor.  It may seem too big but for 3 years now the anchor has never loosened even with 50 knots winds.  It fits perfectly into the bow roller of the Amel 54 which is the same as that of the latest Supermaramu, i think.
When the wind blows strong at anchor, it is safe to have an oversized anchor that will not fail. You sleep better at night.
Dominique
Irko A54-16


Re: Seacock for aft head

Patrick McAneny
 

Mark, I ordered that valve yesterday from  Fawcetts in Annapolis , I will pick up some Locktite 592.
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: Mark McGovern <mfmcgovern@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Sent: Mon, Jul 26, 2021 10:19 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Seacock for aft head

Pat,

The information Bill, Mark, and Dan provided you is correct.  I just replace the ball valve in my forward head with the Groco part number IBV-1250BSPP.  Because it is a straight thread you will need to use a thread sealant to both seal the threads and to fix the ball valve in a position where you can access and turn the handle.  I used Loctite 592 Thread Sealant which has worked out well so far.
 
--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA


Re: Rocna 33 anchor- does it fits without modification on Super Maramu 2000

Bill Kinney
 

Slavko

It is important to remember when we are talking an anchor fit on a Super Maramu the bow roller came in (at least) two different configurations.  What fits on an older boat might not fit on a newer one, and the other way round.

I would second the comment that a Rocna 33 is too small for long term constant use on a Super Maramu.  Read the fine print on the Rocna sizing table:  They are recommending anchors for “UP TO 50 KNOTS OF WIND”. To my mind, that is not adequate for a boat that needs to be self-sufficient at anchor in what ever weather comes. Not saying that the Rocna is a bad anchor, just that it needs to be bigger than recommended in the official table for full time cruising use. I know Rocna makes a big deal about being very conservative on their anchor sizes, but nobody ever work up at 2AM in a 60 knot squall worried their anchor was too big.

We had a Roca 40 (80lbs) on Harmonie, and it fit on the “old style” bow roller fine.  We have since replaced it with a 105 lb Mantus M1. We have a lot more confidence it it than the smaller Rocna. It took a bit fo jiggering to have it fit on the roller, but we do not consider it too large at all. I’d put a 120 lb on if it would fit.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Brunswick, GA


Re: Volvo D3-110 Sensor - Spare Sensor Sets

Rudolf Waldispuehl
 

Dear Amelians with VP D3-110 C engines,

 

As disused few weeks ago, I made some research about the D3-110 sensors and asked SAV. AMEL re-directed me to GWEN Marine which is the Volvo supplier in France who delivers the Engines and Spare parts to AMEL.

 

GWEN Marine gave me a list (quote) and advice of the correct electronical parts/sensors. Attached you will find the quote of those VP parts for the D3-110 C Series. Unfortunately, in French because they don’t speak English. In the list are the most important parts who can potentially fail, but not necessary do fail !

 

There are only two components which are specific to our boats:

 

  • One is the Oil Pressure Sensor which is Bipolar – Nr. 863160 (old),
    • The new Part Nr is: 8151889

 

  • Another is the Mass-Relay – Nr. 860877-0 (old), the new Nr is: 872242
    • The Mass Relay is located close to the Alternator below the Oil-filter housing.

 

The others are standard Volvo Engine parts, and do not need extra wire (due to isolated grounding).

 

According to Gwenael RAMBAUT from GWEN MARINE, all Sensors can be changed by the owner without special tool, but technical competence and basic understanding needed.  BTW:  There are sensors which need a EVC computer fault reset or calibration for proper work after replacement.

GWEN said; “None of the offered sensor replacement needs a reset or calibration of the EVC computer”. BUT: I’m not 100% sure if this is correct?

P.S.

You don’t need not order all parts from a Volvo Penta dealer because you probably find some elsewhere for a fraction of the Volvo Pricing as many of you discovered. Some are original BOSCH sensors and can be found in Internet as Scott & Ulrich mentioned recently. Be careful, there are lots of similar part numbers around. But at least you do have the correct original VP Parts numbers now! If you want to be sure, go to a Volvo Dealers which will be happy to get the high margin 😉

 

Best regards and fair winds

 

Ruedi Waldispuehl

WASABI A54. #55 / currently in Valencia

E-MAIL: mail@...

 

Von: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> im Auftrag von Rudolf Waldispuehl <Rudolf@...>
Antworten an: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Datum: Dienstag, 15. Juni 2021 um 10:20
An: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Betreff: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Volvo D3-110 Sensor - Spare Sensor Sets

 

Thank you Bill,

I will ask Volvo France and try to get an answer; - will let you know.

Best, Ruedi

 

Von: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> im Auftrag von CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
Antworten an: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Datum: Montag, 14. Juni 2021 um 18:18
An: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Betreff: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Volvo D3-110 Sensor - Spare Sensor Sets

 

Ruedi,

 

The best advice I can give you to get a list is to contact Volvo France for that list with your model and serial number. You have model C and I believe the latest model is at least H. 

 

Volvo France is the ones who modified at least some, maybe all of the D3s for isolated ground. There might be a different sensor between some models. I am not sure of that. 

 

The sensor that seems to be the most common sensor to fail and cause problems is the boost sensor followed by the oil pressure sensor, but this is not an analytical answer.

 

If/when you get an answer, please let me know, and if possible, ask which models of the D3, in addition to the C, the list will apply to. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse 
Amel Owners Yacht School
+1 832-380-4970 | brouse@...
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com 
Yacht School Calendar: www.preparetocastoff.blogspot.com/p/calendar.html


   

 

On Mon, Jun 14, 2021, 11:03 AM Courtney Gorman via groups.io <Itsfun1=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:

Try Bosch automotive sensors they worked for me and were very inexpensive 




On Jun 14, 2021, at 10:36 AM, Rudolf Waldispuehl <Rudolf@...> wrote:

Dear Amelia’s  

 

Because our Volvo D3-110 is running with some sensors, I try to find out which of those are most important and vital to have as spare. I do have the D3-110 C and I’m quite happy with it, but I feel better to have those sensors who could fail as spare.

 

Does anyone have a list and a source of those vital sensors?

Can anybody let us know which of those you have spare and where you ordered them?

 

@Bill Rose: Do I need to have all these sensors with isolated ground? Not sure about these?

I found some with 3 Pins, four pins and also 2 pins. The “m prop valve” Sensor has only 2 pins and therefore most likely not with isolated ground?? Correct?

Hope to get some feedback about the mystery - sensors ;-)
Happy Sailing 

Ruedi Waldispuehl
WASABI AML54-#55
Currently in Cartagena (ES)

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