Date   

Re: Lessons Learned #lessons

Jeff Williams
 

I think a Lessons Learned section is an excellent idea.    Pilots file reports when they mess up so everyone can learn from it.  

Jeff
S/V Spruzzo

On Sat, Aug 7, 2021 at 1:22 AM Patrick McAneny via groups.io <sailw32=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Eric, I have a new one being shipped, I will compare it to what i have now. The point I was making ,is that there may be others that may purchase and install an alternator without considering if it isolated or not. It never dawned on me to question it, until i was cleaning the connection this week and checked the continuity .
Thanks,
Pat



-----Original Message-----
From: eric freedman <kimberlite@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Sent: Fri, Aug 6, 2021 3:36 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Lessons Learned

Pat,
The isolated ground alternators usually have a piece of black plastic under the mounting stud. It is quite easy to visually separate the isolated ones from the non-isolated ones.
Fair Winds
Eric
 
 
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io On Behalf Of Patrick McAneny via groups.io
Sent: Friday, August 06, 2021 8:53 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Lessons Learned
 
I was thinking that maybe we should have a file section ,where owners could list facts or lessons they have learned ,where they could pass them on so that other owners do not make the same mistakes . An owner could go down the list ,read them and learn from other's mistakes. 
To that end ,I thought I would pass on something I just learned ,that many of you probably already know ,but perhaps  not all. 
I have been losing zincs , for years at an accelerated rate , so I have always replaced my zincs religiously . I have made attempts to find the cause ,asked a electrical mechanic assess the problem ,then it would fall off my radar for awhile.
This week ,upon Bill's advise I purchase a voltage meter ,not one with a light ,but a digital one that showed voltage. I connected the pig tail to the quadrant/zinc and contacted the probe to the positive and neg. battery terminals. It showed nothing on the neg. terminal ,but it showed voltage on the positive terminal on both my 24v and 12 v . That meant that I had a negative leak on both the 12v and 24v side.
I had a couple of conversations with Bill ,and I thank him for his time, we trouble shot the issue and possible causes. I concentrated my search mostly in the engine room and in a couple of hours I discovered what my two issues were. 
The 12v side was the result of a previous owner having connected a neg. wire from the starter to the fuel pump shut off ,this should be run thru a relay ,I need to look at another SM with a Volvo TMD22A to see how to wire it. That was unique to my boat. The 24v. side is a mistake that I want to pass on ,so others don't make the same mistake.
I disconnected  the 24v ground wire off my alternator and found that I had continuity between the terminal and the alternator case,which means continuity between the terminal and the bonding system since the engine is bonded. Once disconnected ,the 24v leak was gone .
This is the lesson I learned : I did not realize that alternator terminals are not necessarily isolated ,more often they are not ,as it does not matter on most boats. So if you purchase an alternator ,make sure it has an isolated ground and if you have a neg. leak ,check to see if your alternator may be the problem.
Hope this helps,
Pat
SM Shenanigans
Sassafras River, Md.


Re: Solar panel installation - AMEL 54's

Ron Hynes <riffhynes@...>
 

Amen with the wind generator, $2500 plus for noise!

Ron Hynes
954.319.0944

On Aug 6, 2021, at 6:23 PM, Alan Leslie <s.v.elyse@...> wrote:



[Edited Message Follows]

Hi Dan,

Yes we have 3 x 200W panels wired in series so they start early and maximise the MPPT;s ability to deliver good current to the batteries
Another advantage of series wiring is the smaller gauge wire you can use, as the current from the panels in a series configuration is lower than a parallel setup.
Shadows are considered to be an issue with series wired panels but on ELyse there is ;little to create shadows on the panels out the back of the boat especially where we have sailed in the S Pacifiic. The predominant breeze is SE so the boat is anchoired facing SE, the panels are at the N end of the boat where the sun is.

The panels are mounted simply with self tapping screws. I drilled (cobalt drill) small holes through the stainless edge plate and the panel frames....moved the panels, enlarged the holes in the stainless, and then screwed the screws into the panel frames....from memory the screws are at about 400mm intervals. It doesnlt sound very secure, but it works. We have sailed thousands of miles now with that setup and nothing has come adrift.

The panels are series connected on the arch and the feed cable runs down the stbd side leg into the lazarette and then through the aft cabin cableway to exit in the aft hanging locker. Here we have a panel with circuit breakers for the Solar and wind generator as well as the wind generator regulator and the Victron MPPT 150/35.
If you wire your panels in series you need to be sure that the Victron unit is rated for more than the sum of the rated voltage of the panels. We have found that our panels can often produce higher voltages and currents than the published rating would have you believe - We have seen nearly 140V from our 3 series connected panels.

The post cct breaker outputs of the Victron MPPT and the Wind regulator are paralleled and a heavy two core cable runs from there to the battery bank +ve and shunt.
We also have the Victron Bluethooth  connection and Victron Connect App on the phone so we can monitor the solar system, as well as the Victron Bluetooth battery temperature sensor which sends temperature information to the MPPT.

It all works very well, although if it was my choice,I wouldn't bother with the wind generator, it's output is feeble in comparison to the solar, unless we're sailing in 30+ knots of breeze. 

Cheers

Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: Lessons Learned #lessons

Alan Leslie
 

We have a "Files" section already.....



Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: Lessons Learned #lessons

Patrick McAneny
 

Eric, I have a new one being shipped, I will compare it to what i have now. The point I was making ,is that there may be others that may purchase and install an alternator without considering if it isolated or not. It never dawned on me to question it, until i was cleaning the connection this week and checked the continuity .
Thanks,
Pat


-----Original Message-----
From: eric freedman <kimberlite@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Sent: Fri, Aug 6, 2021 3:36 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Lessons Learned

Pat,
The isolated ground alternators usually have a piece of black plastic under the mounting stud. It is quite easy to visually separate the isolated ones from the non-isolated ones.
Fair Winds
Eric
 
 
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io On Behalf Of Patrick McAneny via groups.io
Sent: Friday, August 06, 2021 8:53 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Lessons Learned
 
I was thinking that maybe we should have a file section ,where owners could list facts or lessons they have learned ,where they could pass them on so that other owners do not make the same mistakes . An owner could go down the list ,read them and learn from other's mistakes. 
To that end ,I thought I would pass on something I just learned ,that many of you probably already know ,but perhaps  not all. 
I have been losing zincs , for years at an accelerated rate , so I have always replaced my zincs religiously . I have made attempts to find the cause ,asked a electrical mechanic assess the problem ,then it would fall off my radar for awhile.
This week ,upon Bill's advise I purchase a voltage meter ,not one with a light ,but a digital one that showed voltage. I connected the pig tail to the quadrant/zinc and contacted the probe to the positive and neg. battery terminals. It showed nothing on the neg. terminal ,but it showed voltage on the positive terminal on both my 24v and 12 v . That meant that I had a negative leak on both the 12v and 24v side.
I had a couple of conversations with Bill ,and I thank him for his time, we trouble shot the issue and possible causes. I concentrated my search mostly in the engine room and in a couple of hours I discovered what my two issues were. 
The 12v side was the result of a previous owner having connected a neg. wire from the starter to the fuel pump shut off ,this should be run thru a relay ,I need to look at another SM with a Volvo TMD22A to see how to wire it. That was unique to my boat. The 24v. side is a mistake that I want to pass on ,so others don't make the same mistake.
I disconnected  the 24v ground wire off my alternator and found that I had continuity between the terminal and the alternator case,which means continuity between the terminal and the bonding system since the engine is bonded. Once disconnected ,the 24v leak was gone .
This is the lesson I learned : I did not realize that alternator terminals are not necessarily isolated ,more often they are not ,as it does not matter on most boats. So if you purchase an alternator ,make sure it has an isolated ground and if you have a neg. leak ,check to see if your alternator may be the problem.
Hope this helps,
Pat
SM Shenanigans
Sassafras River, Md.


Re: Solar panel installation - AMEL 54's

Alan Leslie
 
Edited

Hi Dan,

Yes we have 3 x 200W panels wired in series so they start early and maximise the MPPT;s ability to deliver good current to the batteries
Another advantage of series wiring is the smaller gauge wire you can use, as the current from the panels in a series configuration is lower than a parallel setup.
Shadows are considered to be an issue with series wired panels but on ELyse there is ;little to create shadows on the panels out the back of the boat especially where we have sailed in the S Pacifiic. The predominant breeze is SE so the boat is anchoired facing SE, the panels are at the N end of the boat where the sun is.

The panels are mounted simply with self tapping screws. I drilled (cobalt drill) small holes through the stainless edge plate and the panel frames....moved the panels, enlarged the holes in the stainless, and then screwed the screws into the panel frames....from memory the screws are at about 400mm intervals. It doesnlt sound very secure, but it works. We have sailed thousands of miles now with that setup and nothing has come adrift.

The panels are series connected on the arch and the feed cable runs down the stbd side leg into the lazarette and then through the aft cabin cableway to exit in the aft hanging locker. Here we have a panel with circuit breakers for the Solar and wind generator as well as the wind generator regulator and the Victron MPPT 150/35.
If you wire your panels in series you need to be sure that the Victron unit is rated for more than the sum of the rated voltage of the panels. We have found that our panels can often produce higher voltages and currents than the published rating would have you believe - We have seen nearly 140V from our 3 series connected panels.

The post cct breaker outputs of the Victron MPPT and the Wind regulator are paralleled and a heavy two core cable runs from there to the battery bank +ve and shunt.
We also have the Victron Bluethooth  connection and Victron Connect App on the phone so we can monitor the solar system, as well as the Victron Bluetooth battery temperature sensor which sends temperature information to the MPPT.

It all works very well, although if it was my choice,I wouldn't bother with the wind generator, it's output is feeble in comparison to the solar, unless we're sailing in 30+ knots of breeze. 

Cheers

Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: Lessons Learned #lessons

eric freedman <kimberlite@...>
 

Pat,

The isolated ground alternators usually have a piece of black plastic under the mounting stud. It is quite easy to visually separate the isolated ones from the non-isolated ones.

Fair Winds

Eric

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io On Behalf Of Patrick McAneny via groups.io
Sent: Friday, August 06, 2021 8:53 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Lessons Learned

 

I was thinking that maybe we should have a file section ,where owners could list facts or lessons they have learned ,where they could pass them on so that other owners do not make the same mistakes . An owner could go down the list ,read them and learn from other's mistakes. 
To that end ,I thought I would pass on something I just learned ,that many of you probably already know ,but perhaps  not all. 
I have been losing zincs , for years at an accelerated rate , so I have always replaced my zincs religiously . I have made attempts to find the cause ,asked a electrical mechanic assess the problem ,then it would fall off my radar for awhile.
This week ,upon Bill's advise I purchase a voltage meter ,not one with a light ,but a digital one that showed voltage. I connected the pig tail to the quadrant/zinc and contacted the probe to the positive and neg. battery terminals. It showed nothing on the neg. terminal ,but it showed voltage on the positive terminal on both my 24v and 12 v . That meant that I had a negative leak on both the 12v and 24v side.
I had a couple of conversations with Bill ,and I thank him for his time, we trouble shot the issue and possible causes. I concentrated my search mostly in the engine room and in a couple of hours I discovered what my two issues were. 
The 12v side was the result of a previous owner having connected a neg. wire from the starter to the fuel pump shut off ,this should be run thru a relay ,I need to look at another SM with a Volvo TMD22A to see how to wire it. That was unique to my boat. The 24v. side is a mistake that I want to pass on ,so others don't make the same mistake.
I disconnected  the 24v ground wire off my alternator and found that I had continuity between the terminal and the alternator case,which means continuity between the terminal and the bonding system since the engine is bonded. Once disconnected ,the 24v leak was gone .
This is the lesson I learned : I did not realize that alternator terminals are not necessarily isolated ,more often they are not ,as it does not matter on most boats. So if you purchase an alternator ,make sure it has an isolated ground and if you have a neg. leak ,check to see if your alternator may be the problem.
Hope this helps,
Pat
SM Shenanigans
Sassafras River, Md.


Lessons Learned #lessons

Patrick McAneny
 

I was thinking that maybe we should have a file section ,where owners could list facts or lessons they have learned ,where they could pass them on so that other owners do not make the same mistakes . An owner could go down the list ,read them and learn from other's mistakes. 
To that end ,I thought I would pass on something I just learned ,that many of you probably already know ,but perhaps  not all. 
I have been losing zincs , for years at an accelerated rate , so I have always replaced my zincs religiously . I have made attempts to find the cause ,asked a electrical mechanic assess the problem ,then it would fall off my radar for awhile.
This week ,upon Bill's advise I purchase a voltage meter ,not one with a light ,but a digital one that showed voltage. I connected the pig tail to the quadrant/zinc and contacted the probe to the positive and neg. battery terminals. It showed nothing on the neg. terminal ,but it showed voltage on the positive terminal on both my 24v and 12 v . That meant that I had a negative leak on both the 12v and 24v side.
I had a couple of conversations with Bill ,and I thank him for his time, we trouble shot the issue and possible causes. I concentrated my search mostly in the engine room and in a couple of hours I discovered what my two issues were. 
The 12v side was the result of a previous owner having connected a neg. wire from the starter to the fuel pump shut off ,this should be run thru a relay ,I need to look at another SM with a Volvo TMD22A to see how to wire it. That was unique to my boat. The 24v. side is a mistake that I want to pass on ,so others don't make the same mistake.
I disconnected  the 24v ground wire off my alternator and found that I had continuity between the terminal and the alternator case,which means continuity between the terminal and the bonding system since the engine is bonded. Once disconnected ,the 24v leak was gone .
This is the lesson I learned : I did not realize that alternator terminals are not necessarily isolated ,more often they are not ,as it does not matter on most boats. So if you purchase an alternator ,make sure it has an isolated ground and if you have a neg. leak ,check to see if your alternator may be the problem.
Hope this helps,
Pat
SM Shenanigans
Sassafras River, Md.


Re: Zinc Anodes

Rick Stanley
 

Thanks Joel I was thinking that was going to be the way to go, figued I'd bounce the question off the group as it never hurts to ask, right..

Rick Stanley
S/V Althea


Re: Zinc Anodes

Rick Stanley
 

Hey Tom I'm up on the hard behind the Yacht Services shed at Haven Harbor South. Currently in the process of dismantling/removing the ancient Dessalator Duo D 60 thats been slowly rotting in place in my engine room. Fun times!! Swing by any time. If my truck is parked next to my boat, I'm onboard.


Re: Onan code 3 subcode 4-1

Elja Röllinghoff Balu SM 222 <Bijorka@...>
 

He Jeff
The cover and sailmaker in Kalamata is
Mike Ilias

+30 693 2378737
The man for the onan is Janny

+30 693 2662481


All the best Elja
SM Balu 222
Kalamata peer B10

Von meinem iPhone gesendet


Re: Zinc Anodes

Courtney Gorman
 

You can punch out the copper very easily then they fit 
Cheers 🥂 


On Aug 5, 2021, at 8:48 PM, eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:



The Amel factory zinc is about a R5 size. I use a R7 and just drill it out a bit.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io On Behalf Of Thomas Peacock
Sent: Thursday, August 05, 2021 8:44 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Zinc Anodes

 

Hi Rick,

 

I’m assuming you are talking about the anodes on the rudder. We have used similar sized US anodes, widely available, and just drill the center a little bit so that the bolt will go through. I don’t think having the threads is critical. 

 

Where in Rock Hall are you? We base at North Point.

 

Tom Peacock

SM 240 Aletes

Chesapeake Bay



On Aug 5, 2021, at 7:36 AM, Rick Stanley <rstanley907@...> wrote:

 

Hey Folks,

Wondering if anyone has a good source for metric anodes on the US easr coast. The ones I'm replacing have a 10mm threaded brass sheath in the middle to take the bolt. Any ideas? I've called abound a bit, no luck so far.

Thanks,
Rick Stanley
S/V Althea, SM2K
Rock Hall, MD

 


--
Tom Peacock
SM 240 Aletes
Chesapeake Bay


Re: Zinc Anodes

eric freedman <kimberlite@...>
 

The Amel factory zinc is about a R5 size. I use a R7 and just drill it out a bit.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io On Behalf Of Thomas Peacock
Sent: Thursday, August 05, 2021 8:44 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Zinc Anodes

 

Hi Rick,

 

I’m assuming you are talking about the anodes on the rudder. We have used similar sized US anodes, widely available, and just drill the center a little bit so that the bolt will go through. I don’t think having the threads is critical. 

 

Where in Rock Hall are you? We base at North Point.

 

Tom Peacock

SM 240 Aletes

Chesapeake Bay



On Aug 5, 2021, at 7:36 AM, Rick Stanley <rstanley907@...> wrote:

 

Hey Folks,

Wondering if anyone has a good source for metric anodes on the US easr coast. The ones I'm replacing have a 10mm threaded brass sheath in the middle to take the bolt. Any ideas? I've called abound a bit, no luck so far.

Thanks,
Rick Stanley
S/V Althea, SM2K
Rock Hall, MD

 


--
Tom Peacock
SM 240 Aletes
Chesapeake Bay


Re: Zinc Anodes

eric freedman <kimberlite@...>
 

Hi Joel,

Nice to see you on the board.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io On Behalf Of amelforme
Sent: Thursday, August 05, 2021 8:44 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Zinc Anodes

 

Hi Rick. Most of my clients buy the inch sized zincs without the copper insert ( easy to find ) and ream or drill the hole slightly larger to accept the somewhat larger metric fastener. I did this on all three Amel boats I owned with excellent results. Metric zincs are hard to find in CONUS and the ones I did find in Annapolis were three times as expensive.

 

Hope this helps.

 

All the best,

Joel

 

           JOEL F. POTTER ~ CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST, L.L.C.

                                         The Experienced AMEL Guy

UNSURPASSED AMEL MARKETING EXPERIENCE AND PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE

                                  Office 954-462-5869  Cell 954-812-2485

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Rick Stanley
Sent: Thursday, August 5, 2021 7:37 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Zinc Anodes

 

Hey Folks,

Wondering if anyone has a good source for metric anodes on the US easr coast. The ones I'm replacing have a 10mm threaded brass sheath in the middle to take the bolt. Any ideas? I've called abound a bit, no luck so far.

Thanks,
Rick Stanley
S/V Althea, SM2K
Rock Hall, MD


Re: Solar panel installation - AMEL 54's

Dan Taylor
 

...the two 360W LG Panels.

Thanks,
Dan
SV FlyGirl


Re: Solar panel installation - AMEL 54's

Dan Taylor
 

Alan et all,
We installed a EMEK Solar Arch and purchased 2xLG360N1C (360W/35V) panels and have a single Victron MPPT 100/30 that is rated for 880W/100V.  We are replacing 2 solar panels that were mounted on the stern starboard rail. 

I have not installed the panels or wired them yet and the arch does not have pre-drilled holes.  Can you provide details or guidance into the installation (hardware (screw type/placement), parallel/series wiring, etc) based on your installation. 

Confirm that I am still good with having a single MPPT (100/30) for the


Re: Backstay Tension A54

Dean Gillies
 

Hi Martin,
Thank you. I will send an email to Franck.
best regards
Dean


Re: Onan code 3 subcode 4-1

tony wells
 

Great to hear you got it resolved, Jeff and that Ioannis and his team are still on their game! Besides mechanical work, he once got my BBQ improved/welded for just €5 - extraordinary!

Other well-priced, competent marine trades in Kalamata are Kostas, electrician, on +30 693 2463281, Theo for refrigeration/aircon +30 694 6173870 and a super canvas maker, whose name escapes me but Ioannis will advise if needed. 

The fresh market, deep inside the town, is well worth exploring. 

All the best,

Tony
Fan of Kalamata and Previous A54 owner

On 5 Aug 2021, at 16:44, Jeff Williams <jeff99williams@...> wrote:


As an update Ioannis was fast and excellent and they fixed my issue quickly and for a reasonable cost.   His diesel guy really looked like he knew what he was doing.    

Plus there are some excellent restaurants near Kalamata Marina!    

Jeff 
S/V Spruzzo SM #379

On Fri, Jul 30, 2021 at 12:21 AM tony wells via groups.io <tony.wells=me.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Jeff

In my experience, Ioannis is a solid all-round engineer who may be able to help you, at Kalamata Marina. You can reach him on +30 693 2662481. 

Good luck and enjoy the fabulous Peloponnese!

Tony
Previously an A54 owner 




On 29 Jul 2021, at 18:51, Jeff Williams <jeff99williams@...> wrote:

Hi All,
My Onan is acting up.  Can anyone recommend a good Onan guy?  I'm near Pilos on the west side of the Peloponnise in Greece.
I will head to Athens if I need to but would prefer to fix it sooner if possible.  
Thanks!
Jeff 
s/v Spruzzo SM#379


Re: Onan code 3 subcode 4-1

Jeff Williams
 

As an update Ioannis was fast and excellent and they fixed my issue quickly and for a reasonable cost.   His diesel guy really looked like he knew what he was doing.    

Plus there are some excellent restaurants near Kalamata Marina!    

Jeff 
S/V Spruzzo SM #379

On Fri, Jul 30, 2021 at 12:21 AM tony wells via groups.io <tony.wells=me.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Jeff

In my experience, Ioannis is a solid all-round engineer who may be able to help you, at Kalamata Marina. You can reach him on +30 693 2662481. 

Good luck and enjoy the fabulous Peloponnese!

Tony
Previously an A54 owner 




On 29 Jul 2021, at 18:51, Jeff Williams <jeff99williams@...> wrote:

Hi All,
My Onan is acting up.  Can anyone recommend a good Onan guy?  I'm near Pilos on the west side of the Peloponnise in Greece.
I will head to Athens if I need to but would prefer to fix it sooner if possible.  
Thanks!
Jeff 
s/v Spruzzo SM#379


Re: Backstay Tension A54

Martin Birkhoff
 

Hello Dean,

The companys name is La Rochelle Greement

Martin
SY Mago del SSur - 54#40
currently Cartagena


Re: Backstay Tension A54

Martin Birkhoff
 

Hello Dean,
 
From Franck Chivée, La Rochelle, Greement, I got the numbers you can see in the sheet. I got thenumbers when he checked our rigging. Franck Chivée is a rigger and very familiar with Amel and Amel rigs. As the backstays of the Amel 54 are 7 mm thick, the tension should be between 600 and 800 kg.
Franck's figures are based on the values that Selden recommends. 

The best will be to ask him.
You can contact Franck by e-mail: larochellegreement@...

Diameter

breaking load in kg

nominal tension 15/100 in kg

nominal tension
20/100 in kg

7 mm

4.050

607

810

8 mm

5.220

783

1.044

10 mm

7.900

1.185

1.580

12 mm

11.055

1.658

2.211

 
The numbers are for 1/19 wires.

Regards
Martin

SY Mago del Sur - 54#40

6341 - 6360 of 65622