Date   

locked Re: Engine Room Exhaust Fan / Blower - lessons learnt #lessons

 

I was answering Jose Venegas, Ipanema SM 278. Jose was the original poster of the question regarding higher engine temperture at higher RPM.

Bill

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar

On Fri, Sep 3, 2021 at 7:02 AM andrew parker <apwarwick@...> wrote:
Hi Bill 
I received the email below but I think you meant to send it to Jose 


On 2 Sep 2021, at 23:43, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:


Jose,

80C or 176 is the normal operating temperature and if the cooling system is working correctly, the temperature should not increase more than 5-8% even at the highest RPM. When you measure 80C on the oil filter, you should measure 50C at the exhaust elbow immediately after the water inlet to the elbow. If it is higher, there is a problem that may be one of the following.

Possible Causes of Overheating:
1. Restricted seawater flow anywhere in the pathway beginning with the seawater entry into the sea chest to the seawater and exhaust exit through the hull. 
a. Sea Chest restriction
b. Hose restriction or kink
c. Restriction at the input to the in-line transmission oil cooler, if equipped
d. Failing seawater pump and/or failing seawater impeller
e. Restricted Exhaust Elbow
2. Restricted Coolant water flow
a. Failing coolant water pump
b. Failing Pressure Cap (should be replaced every 2 years)
c. Failing and/or clogged Heat Exchanger
3. Incorrect coolant ratio, but this is usually not a major contributor but will contribute somewhat.
4. Incorrect V-Belt tensioning with the V-Belt turning the coolant water pump
5. Failing Coolant Thermostat (not opening completely)
6. Other engine issues

Do not think that you can measure enough water flow by observing the seawater and exhaust exiting the boat. It will fool you.

Bill

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar

On Thu, Sep 2, 2021 at 1:40 PM Jose Venegas via groups.io <josegvenegas=icloud.com@groups.io> wrote:

David, you may have something here.  I have noticed randomly occurring increases of engine temperature up to 220F when running the engine above 2000 RPM.  However the temperature does not seem to drop after opening the engine-room  door  and have not been able to measure any temp in the engine higher the 176F with an infrared thermometer.  

Any thoughts?

Jose Venegas
Ipanema SM 278 

currently in Shelterbay PANAMA 


locked Re: Engine Room Exhaust Fan / Blower - lessons learnt #lessons

andrew parker
 

Hi Bill 
I received the email below but I think you meant to send it to Jose 


On 2 Sep 2021, at 23:43, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:


Jose,

80C or 176 is the normal operating temperature and if the cooling system is working correctly, the temperature should not increase more than 5-8% even at the highest RPM. When you measure 80C on the oil filter, you should measure 50C at the exhaust elbow immediately after the water inlet to the elbow. If it is higher, there is a problem that may be one of the following.

Possible Causes of Overheating:
1. Restricted seawater flow anywhere in the pathway beginning with the seawater entry into the sea chest to the seawater and exhaust exit through the hull. 
a. Sea Chest restriction
b. Hose restriction or kink
c. Restriction at the input to the in-line transmission oil cooler, if equipped
d. Failing seawater pump and/or failing seawater impeller
e. Restricted Exhaust Elbow
2. Restricted Coolant water flow
a. Failing coolant water pump
b. Failing Pressure Cap (should be replaced every 2 years)
c. Failing and/or clogged Heat Exchanger
3. Incorrect coolant ratio, but this is usually not a major contributor but will contribute somewhat.
4. Incorrect V-Belt tensioning with the V-Belt turning the coolant water pump
5. Failing Coolant Thermostat (not opening completely)
6. Other engine issues

Do not think that you can measure enough water flow by observing the seawater and exhaust exiting the boat. It will fool you.

Bill

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar

On Thu, Sep 2, 2021 at 1:40 PM Jose Venegas via groups.io <josegvenegas=icloud.com@groups.io> wrote:

David, you may have something here.  I have noticed randomly occurring increases of engine temperature up to 220F when running the engine above 2000 RPM.  However the temperature does not seem to drop after opening the engine-room  door  and have not been able to measure any temp in the engine higher the 176F with an infrared thermometer.  

Any thoughts?

Jose Venegas
Ipanema SM 278 

currently in Shelterbay PANAMA 


Re: Bowman DC60-XCC Transmission Oil Cooler Failure; ZF Hurth ZF 25; Yanmar 4JH3-HTE #lessons

Lior Keydar
 

Dear Alain

Did you check if the Mota G058-235-1 / CC32 is the correct model for your A54. My A54 is #18 so I am almost sure that it is the same oil cooler and measurements. Shell I order the Bowman DC60-XAA or the MOTA G058-235-1 / CC32 ? I am a little bit confuse what is the correct product.

Thanks
Lior, SHARONA, A54 #18


On Tue, Aug 31, 2021 at 08:29 AM, Alain Durante wrote:
G058-235-1 / CC32


Re: Solar panels stainless steel mounted vs soft panels

Ian Park
 

We have two on the rail also. Like Danny says they swivel easily to angle towards the sun with just the correct tension on the clamps. They have been secure through gale force winds. They are easy enough to unplug, un clamp and store in any threatening situation (never needed to so far).
I also fitted an extra flexible panel on the Bimini this year as we bought a portable cool box/freezer and that has performed well too.
I don’t want the extra weight of an arch and solar panels so far back on my boat.

Ian ‘Ocean Hobo’ SN 96


Re: C-Drive 'O' ring replacement in a 1990 Santorin 46ft sloop

Ian Park
 

Diane
As John says the engine room is where you re-fill the C Drive oil. Early in my ownership of my Santorin it went milky and this was obvious when you looked at this oil reservoir/filler. I was worried about any damage but was reassured by Amel in Martinique who I watched replacing the oil and seals for me. I have done this job myself since then and it is quite straightforward. Look on the Amel Owners site where there are excellent photos and descriptions are of the process.
The gears won’t rust as there is no air in the gearbox. Although you can get the seals for the shaft anywhere that does seals the bushing is a specific Amel part which they always have in stock. If you order the whole service kit from them it also guarantees that the springs in the seals will be stainless and not steel. I would order 2 sets so you always have a set ready for the next service. It is a two year service cycle, but as John says just changing the oil if you haul out between servicing is a good idea.

Ian. ‘Ocean Hobo’ SN 96. UK

PS. If you’re boat doesn’t have a spare bow thruster propeller, get one !!
Oh, and read up on changing the oil in the bow thruster. It’s very easy if you do it regularly, but if it’s been neglected some past of the connecting parts can seize and prove challenging to separate.


locked Re: Engine Room Exhaust Fan / Blower - lessons learnt #lessons

ESTELLER
 

Hello Bill,

 

Are you sure this email is for me?

I do not encounter a temperature problem with my D3 110, and I do not believe I have asked any question on this subject on the sites.

 

Your answer concerning the engine temperature is as usual very relevant.

 

Kindly

 

José ORION A54

 

De : main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> De la part de CW Bill Rouse
Envoyé : jeudi 2 septembre 2021 23:43
À : main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Objet : [Special] Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Engine Room Exhaust Fan / Blower - lessons learnt #lessons

 

Jose,

 

80C or 176 is the normal operating temperature and if the cooling system is working correctly, the temperature should not increase more than 5-8% even at the highest RPM. When you measure 80C on the oil filter, you should measure 50C at the exhaust elbow immediately after the water inlet to the elbow. If it is higher, there is a problem that may be one of the following.

 

Possible Causes of Overheating:
1. Restricted seawater flow anywhere in the pathway beginning with the seawater entry into the sea chest to the seawater and exhaust exit through the hull. 

a. Sea Chest restriction

b. Hose restriction or kink

c. Restriction at the input to the in-line transmission oil cooler, if equipped

d. Failing seawater pump and/or failing seawater impeller

e. Restricted Exhaust Elbow

2. Restricted Coolant water flow

a. Failing coolant water pump

b. Failing Pressure Cap (should be replaced every 2 years)

c. Failing and/or clogged Heat Exchanger

3. Incorrect coolant ratio, but this is usually not a major contributor but will contribute somewhat.
4. Incorrect V-Belt tensioning with the V-Belt turning the coolant water pump
5. Failing Coolant Thermostat (not opening completely)
6. Other engine issues

 

Do not think that you can measure enough water flow by observing the seawater and exhaust exiting the boat. It will fool you.

 

Bill


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School

Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 

 

View My Training Calendar

 

On Thu, Sep 2, 2021 at 1:40 PM Jose Venegas via groups.io <josegvenegas=icloud.com@groups.io> wrote:

David, you may have something here.  I have noticed randomly occurring increases of engine temperature up to 220F when running the engine above 2000 RPM.  However the temperature does not seem to drop after opening the engine-room  door  and have not been able to measure any temp in the engine higher the 176F with an infrared thermometer.  

Any thoughts?

Jose Venegas
Ipanema SM 278 

currently in Shelterbay PANAMA 


Re: Solar panels stainless steel mounted vs soft panels

Elja Röllinghoff Balu SM 222
 

He Kent 
We have also two on the rail 
port and starport side 
All together 200 w 24 V Vmax36 V 
wiering in series with a Victron solar regulator 
We get this summer in greece 
1200 W per day it was perfekt 

we got the holders off 


Elja SM Balu 222 

Von meinem iPhone gesendet


Re: C-Drive 'O' ring replacement in a 1990 Santorin 46ft sloop

JOHN HAYES
 

Hi Robin

My boat the same as yours but 1991. There is no dipstick that I’m aware of but we have an oil reservoir under the gunnel above the c drive   It is supposed to be about 2/3 full. Being clear plastic you can see the oil colour

On the c drive and under the propellor is a drain nut. We replace the c drive oil every time we slip

Suppose it depends where you are but in NZ it was simple to replace the seals with stock items available commercially 

It’s an ingenious and simple set up

Best
John Hayes

Nga Waka 
Wellington 


On 3/09/2021, at 1:33 PM, Robin (Bea) and Diane via groups.io <bndsorti@...> wrote:

According to the previous owner of my recently purchased Amel 1990 Santorin, the C-Drive 'O' rings and bushings need replacing due to a small leak. I assume there is a dip-stick to check oil levels and see if the oil is milky.  But due to covid restrictions we are unable to return to the vessel and were wondering if salt water will get into the gearbox and cause any rust or damage in the mean time. Hoping someone out there could enlighten me with my concerns. Cheers from Robin and Diane


C-Drive 'O' ring replacement in a 1990 Santorin 46ft sloop

Robin (Bea) and Diane
 

According to the previous owner of my recently purchased Amel 1990 Santorin, the C-Drive 'O' rings and bushings need replacing due to a small leak. I assume there is a dip-stick to check oil levels and see if the oil is milky.  But due to covid restrictions we are unable to return to the vessel and were wondering if salt water will get into the gearbox and cause any rust or damage in the mean time. Hoping someone out there could enlighten me with my concerns. Cheers from Robin and Diane


locked Re: Engine Room Exhaust Fan / Blower - lessons learnt #lessons

Patrick McAneny
 

Jose, You seem to contradict yourself . You said you have notice engine temps to 220 when running above 2000 rpm., but then said you have not read temps above 176 with a infrared . What engine do you have? I have a Volvo TMD22a and have had overheating issues in the past and discovered a cause ,probably overlooked by many.
Pat
SM Shenanigans 


-----Original Message-----
From: CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Sent: Thu, Sep 2, 2021 5:43 pm
Subject: [Special] Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Engine Room Exhaust Fan / Blower - lessons learnt #lessons

Jose,

80C or 176 is the normal operating temperature and if the cooling system is working correctly, the temperature should not increase more than 5-8% even at the highest RPM. When you measure 80C on the oil filter, you should measure 50C at the exhaust elbow immediately after the water inlet to the elbow. If it is higher, there is a problem that may be one of the following.

Possible Causes of Overheating:
1. Restricted seawater flow anywhere in the pathway beginning with the seawater entry into the sea chest to the seawater and exhaust exit through the hull. 
a. Sea Chest restriction
b. Hose restriction or kink
c. Restriction at the input to the in-line transmission oil cooler, if equipped
d. Failing seawater pump and/or failing seawater impeller
e. Restricted Exhaust Elbow
2. Restricted Coolant water flow
a. Failing coolant water pump
b. Failing Pressure Cap (should be replaced every 2 years)
c. Failing and/or clogged Heat Exchanger
3. Incorrect coolant ratio, but this is usually not a major contributor but will contribute somewhat.
4. Incorrect V-Belt tensioning with the V-Belt turning the coolant water pump
5. Failing Coolant Thermostat (not opening completely)
6. Other engine issues

Do not think that you can measure enough water flow by observing the seawater and exhaust exiting the boat. It will fool you.

Bill

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar

On Thu, Sep 2, 2021 at 1:40 PM Jose Venegas via groups.io <josegvenegas=icloud.com@groups.io> wrote:
David, you may have something here.  I have noticed randomly occurring increases of engine temperature up to 220F when running the engine above 2000 RPM.  However the temperature does not seem to drop after opening the engine-room  door  and have not been able to measure any temp in the engine higher the 176F with an infrared thermometer.  
Any thoughts?
Jose Venegas
Ipanema SM 278 
currently in Shelterbay PANAMA 


locked Re: Engine Room Exhaust Fan / Blower - lessons learnt #lessons

 

Jose,

80C or 176 is the normal operating temperature and if the cooling system is working correctly, the temperature should not increase more than 5-8% even at the highest RPM. When you measure 80C on the oil filter, you should measure 50C at the exhaust elbow immediately after the water inlet to the elbow. If it is higher, there is a problem that may be one of the following.

Possible Causes of Overheating:
1. Restricted seawater flow anywhere in the pathway beginning with the seawater entry into the sea chest to the seawater and exhaust exit through the hull. 
a. Sea Chest restriction
b. Hose restriction or kink
c. Restriction at the input to the in-line transmission oil cooler, if equipped
d. Failing seawater pump and/or failing seawater impeller
e. Restricted Exhaust Elbow
2. Restricted Coolant water flow
a. Failing coolant water pump
b. Failing Pressure Cap (should be replaced every 2 years)
c. Failing and/or clogged Heat Exchanger
3. Incorrect coolant ratio, but this is usually not a major contributor but will contribute somewhat.
4. Incorrect V-Belt tensioning with the V-Belt turning the coolant water pump
5. Failing Coolant Thermostat (not opening completely)
6. Other engine issues

Do not think that you can measure enough water flow by observing the seawater and exhaust exiting the boat. It will fool you.

Bill

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar

On Thu, Sep 2, 2021 at 1:40 PM Jose Venegas via groups.io <josegvenegas=icloud.com@groups.io> wrote:

David, you may have something here.  I have noticed randomly occurring increases of engine temperature up to 220F when running the engine above 2000 RPM.  However the temperature does not seem to drop after opening the engine-room  door  and have not been able to measure any temp in the engine higher the 176F with an infrared thermometer.  

Any thoughts?

Jose Venegas
Ipanema SM 278 

currently in Shelterbay PANAMA 


Re: Solar panels stainless steel mounted vs soft panels

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Kent,

I have two panels on the rail port side just aft of the cockpit. They are clamped to the rail 1/3 in2/3 out. No bracing so it is easy to swing them vertical when docking etc. Also the free swiveling means strong winds can swing them up or down. I have the clamps tensioned so they stay in place but I can swivel them without adjustment. Likewise boarding waves which I have never experienced.

Having been through a major storm on a previous boat the boarding wave one was a concern to me so my plan was if a situation was building the panels could be removed in minutes. Never had to.

I put the them there "temporally" over 10 years ago when sailing through the Caribbean en route to Panama  intending to change them to a permeant position when I had time. The position worked so well I didn't need to.

I am not trying to make my boat a floating condo with everything electric just like home,.so my two panels are adequate for my purposes. Those purposes are redundancy for ocean crossings, wind solar and diesel. My lead acid batteries lasted over 8 years and I am sure the wind solar combination has been a significant contributor to that.

Kind Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

On 03 September 2021 at 01:07 "karkauai via groups.io" <karkauai@...> wrote:

Thanks, Stephan.
I have raised the cockpit enclosure so that I can stand up straight.  It doesn't allow me enough room below the boom to add another layer of solar panels.  I'm going to have to use flexible panels, or mount them someplace else. I'm not keen on mounting them on the rails, either.

Does anyone know how efficient the Solbian panels on the Amel 50 are?  Other high efficiency flexible panels?

Thanks.
--
Kent & Iris
KRISTY
SM243


locked Re: Engine Room Exhaust Fan / Blower - lessons learnt #lessons

Jose Venegas
 

David, you may have something here.  I have noticed randomly occurring increases of engine temperature up to 220F when running the engine above 2000 RPM.  However the temperature does not seem to drop after opening the engine-room  door  and have not been able to measure any temp in the engine higher the 176F with an infrared thermometer.  

Any thoughts?

Jose Venegas
Ipanema SM 278 

currently in Shelterbay PANAMA 


A55 Location of Mizzen Mast Drip Box

 

Amel makes a Drip Box for all models and masts. 
image.png

The Drip Box is located inside the boat near the mast it serves. In some Amel models, the Drip Box drains directly into the shower, as in the SN & SM. In other models, there is a drain hose connected to the drain box which empties into a gray water hose.

I need to locate the A55 Mizzen Drip Box which I believe is behind the panel in the ceiling of the aft shower. I also need to know how to remove this panel.
image.png



CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


Re: Fuel Polishing

Mike Johnson
 

Hi Kent & Iris,

Thanks for the useful information. Perhaps I am being over cautious.

Regards 

Mike & Peta 

Solitude
SM2K 461


On 2 Sep 2021, at 16:40, karkauai via groups.io <karkauai@...> wrote:


We just have the dual Racor filter system.  When ever the boat sits for more than a few weeks, I pump a gallon of fuel from the bottom of the tank through a 5ft piece of 1/2” PVC pipe from both the inspection port and the fill pipe into clear containers.  There has never been any debris or water in the fuel to date.

Once I didn't change the filters for 2-3 years, and they deteriorated enough to cause problems. Now I change them every year.

Only once when I bought fuel in the Caribbean, from a questionable source who delivered it to the boat in barrels, I checked the fuel before putting it in the tank, and didn't find any debris or water.  I strained it anyway and it was clean.

I always use Biobor Jr biocide.

Kent & Iris
SM 243
Kristy
In Maine starting back to Chesapeake

--
Kent & Iris
KRISTY
SM243


Re: Fuel Polishing

 

Kent,

I agree on fuel filters, Racor and otherwise. It is not just the hours of engine & Generator time, it is the calendar as well. One year is a good time frame.


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar

On Thu, Sep 2, 2021 at 10:40 AM karkauai via groups.io <karkauai=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
We just have the dual Racor filter system.  When ever the boat sits for more than a few weeks, I pump a gallon of fuel from the bottom of the tank through a 5ft piece of 1/2” PVC pipe from both the inspection port and the fill pipe into clear containers.  There has never been any debris or water in the fuel to date.

Once I didn't change the filters for 2-3 years, and they deteriorated enough to cause problems. Now I change them every year.

Only once when I bought fuel in the Caribbean, from a questionable source who delivered it to the boat in barrels, I checked the fuel before putting it in the tank, and didn't find any debris or water.  I strained it anyway and it was clean.

I always use Biobor Jr biocide.

Kent & Iris
SM 243
Kristy
In Maine starting back to Chesapeake

--
Kent & Iris
KRISTY
SM243


Re: Fuel Polishing

karkauai
 

We just have the dual Racor filter system.  When ever the boat sits for more than a few weeks, I pump a gallon of fuel from the bottom of the tank through a 5ft piece of 1/2” PVC pipe from both the inspection port and the fill pipe into clear containers.  There has never been any debris or water in the fuel to date.

Once I didn't change the filters for 2-3 years, and they deteriorated enough to cause problems. Now I change them every year.

Only once when I bought fuel in the Caribbean, from a questionable source who delivered it to the boat in barrels, I checked the fuel before putting it in the tank, and didn't find any debris or water.  I strained it anyway and it was clean.

I always use Biobor Jr biocide.

Kent & Iris
SM 243
Kristy
In Maine starting back to Chesapeake

--
Kent & Iris
KRISTY
SM243


Re: Solar panels stainless steel mounted vs soft panels

 

Kent,

I really like this flexible panel installation by Delos which is sewn to the bimini top: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wTa6HEo2_K8

And Solbian must have seen the video because they offer an option with zippers. They give you a choice of zipper color and panel back color:
image.png

A client is installing these:
On his SM bimini:

Panels with Junction box, cables, MC4 connectors, and lateral zippers for an easy relocation: https://www.solbian.eu/en/fixing-options/52-zipper.html

I would supply the panels with stiffening bars as for attached image, we recommend this for bimini installation to make the panel more resistant.

Glossy surface. You can decide on back-sheet color: white, black, or transparent for all the 6 panels.

On the deck in front of the windshield:

2 SP130 for deck, back adhesive, back wires, glossy surface.  https://www.solbian.eu/en/sp-series/8-sp-130.html
1  MPPT  Smart Solar 100/20 with bluetooth for bimini: https://www.solbian.eu/en/victron-energy/111-smartsolar-mppt-10030-1224v.html
1  MPPT  Smart Solar 75/15 with bluetooth for deck: https://www.solbian.eu/en/victron-energy/110-smartsolar-mppt-7515-1224v.html

Total power of bimini and deck: 732 W



CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar

On Thu, Sep 2, 2021 at 8:43 AM Patrick McAneny via groups.io <sailw32=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Kent, I spoke to Sunpower about their flex panels. He told me that the cells in the flex panels were the exact same cells used in their rigid panels , thus were just as effecient. For any given  dimension the rigid panel produces more watts because more sq. inches on a flex panel are devoted to the borders ,thus less productive area. He acknowledged that there would be some loss due to higher heat on a flex panel laying flat on a solid surface, he could not provide a percentage loss ,but said it was .negotiable. It is going to be high in the seventies for several days ,safe to return home.
Pat
SM Shenanigans
Sassafras River ,Md.


-----Original Message-----
From: karkauai via groups.io <karkauai=yahoo.com@groups.io>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Sent: Thu, Sep 2, 2021 9:07 am
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Solar panels stainless steel mounted vs soft panels

Thanks, Stephan.
I have raised the cockpit enclosure so that I can stand up straight.  It doesn't allow me enough room below the boom to add another layer of solar panels.  I'm going to have to use flexible panels, or mount them someplace else. I'm not keen on mounting them on the rails, either.

Does anyone know how efficient the Solbian panels on the Amel 50 are?  Other high efficiency flexible panels?

Thanks.
--
Kent & Iris
KRISTY
SM243


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Tonnage

karkauai
 

Hi Richie,
If you are willing to share what was done on Why Knot, perhaps others could pay you for all the time, effort, and money that you put into it.

It is such an onerous process that there's no reason to reinvent the wheel.

I'd be willing to pay for the info if I needed it.
--
Kent & Iris
KRISTY
SM243


Re: Solar panels stainless steel mounted vs soft panels

Patrick McAneny
 

Kent, I spoke to Sunpower about their flex panels. He told me that the cells in the flex panels were the exact same cells used in their rigid panels , thus were just as effecient. For any given  dimension the rigid panel produces more watts because more sq. inches on a flex panel are devoted to the borders ,thus less productive area. He acknowledged that there would be some loss due to higher heat on a flex panel laying flat on a solid surface, he could not provide a percentage loss ,but said it was .negotiable. It is going to be high in the seventies for several days ,safe to return home.
Pat
SM Shenanigans
Sassafras River ,Md.


-----Original Message-----
From: karkauai via groups.io <karkauai@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Sent: Thu, Sep 2, 2021 9:07 am
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Solar panels stainless steel mounted vs soft panels

Thanks, Stephan.
I have raised the cockpit enclosure so that I can stand up straight.  It doesn't allow me enough room below the boom to add another layer of solar panels.  I'm going to have to use flexible panels, or mount them someplace else. I'm not keen on mounting them on the rails, either.

Does anyone know how efficient the Solbian panels on the Amel 50 are?  Other high efficiency flexible panels?

Thanks.
--
Kent & Iris
KRISTY
SM243

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