Date   

Re: Tablet Mount

Matt Salatino
 

No screws. Works very well. Rock solid.
check Arkon mounts on Amazon. They have many types. Inexpensive also.


Re: Lithium Battery BMS

Paul Osterberg
 

I only made space for 2x70 Ah batteries, 
But depending on how much other stuff you put in the battery compartment you may have space for more. In the picture you see the starter battery and the 2x70 Ah batteries. 
Paul


Kohler Generator not starting

Darrol Martin
 

I'm an Amel newbie.  I have a lovely Amel Mango.  I've been having intermittent problems starting the generator.  Today it won't start.  There is power on the starter, but no power on the controller on the generator  ie no LEDs glowing in the controller. Can anybody help with thoughts and ideas.

Thanks,
Darrol
SV DISA
Mango #72


Re: Lithium Battery BMS

Juan de Zulueta
 

Paul,

this is indeed an interesting solution quite interesting in terms of price and functionality.
how many ah of standard battery did you keep?
i am still interested to hear from other implementations of lithium batteries offering a real security.

bestbregards.
--
Juan de Zulueta
OPHELIE X
Super Maramu #32


Re: Additional webbing above tack on Q-Sails Genoa Question

Bill Kinney
 

I will add, both of the genoas we have had on Harmonie (one from North, and one from Island Planet) have had webbing for lashing like this.  It’s a great safety feature. On the other hand, if your halyard tension is high enough, it really shouldn’t be needed to keep the luff tape from pulling out of the foil.  

If you are having difficulty with the luff tape pulling out, are you sure that the halyard tension is high enough?  And that the luff tape is the right size?  If the jib car traveler is too far aft, this can also pull too hard on the foot of the sail, and the clew can pull away from the foil as a result. 

Halyard tension on the genoa is a dynamic adjustment, and is really quite important for good sail shape and boat performance.  Higher tension pulls the draft back forward in strong winds letting the boat point higher and make better progress to windward. Easing up a bit  in lighter winds powers up the sail when needed.  Halyard tension while sailing should ALWAYS be high enough to fully carry the weight of the furling motor, and keep the metal support bracket under tension.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA


Re: Additional webbing above tack on Q-Sails Genoa Question

 

Yes, basically the same for all sails. It is a wonderful and simple addition. Do not order any furling sail without this feature. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse 
Amel Owners Yacht School
+1 832-380-4970 | brouse@...
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com 
Yacht School Calendar: www.preparetocastoff.blogspot.com/p/calendar.html


   

On Sat, Sep 11, 2021, 6:57 PM Michael & Robyn <SY_RIPPLE@...> wrote:
Thank you BIll,

very similar just for the Genoa. Your picture seems to show the main or mizzen sail.
--
Michael & Robyn

SY RIPPLE SM2K # 417


Re: Additional webbing above tack on Q-Sails Genoa Question

Michael & Robyn
 

Thank you BIll,

very similar just for the Genoa. Your picture seems to show the main or mizzen sail.
--
Michael & Robyn

SY RIPPLE SM2K # 417


Re: 24V+ Isolated Ground Leak

Porter McRoberts
 

Copy that Bill. 
My thought was, since the connection is so tenuous, check continuity closer to the possible offending item. Check continuity between the negative terminal of the item and the bonding for that item, or rig, if it’s an A54. 

We also show a Voltage potential between the positive 24 v terminal and the rig. But no continuity between the negative and the bonding/ rig. At the Nav terminal. 

Porter
A54-152


On Sep 12, 2021, at 12:15 AM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:


Porter,

I believe that Amel did not start connecting the rigging to binding until the A54 production. Paul has a late-model SM, and possibly it began then.


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar

On Fri, Sep 10, 2021 at 10:36 PM Porter McRoberts via groups.io <portermcroberts=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Paul. 
Do you have continuity between the negative pole of the 24 system and the rigging, when testing with a multimeter?

If there is a closed circuit, you should.  

Porter
A54-152


On Sep 11, 2021, at 1:43 PM, Paul Stascavage via groups.io <pstas2003=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

Bill R.,

Those wires appear to go to the stereo system amplifier, but they are not the root of the problem as disconnecting them didn’t make the issue go away.  However, I am keeping then disconnected until I can find a better negative terminal to connect them to.

Alan,

In my earlier post, I thought that I had identified the problem circuit as being the instruments/devices connected to the Navigation Breaker as I was not seeing house bank voltage when testing with the breaker off.  The problem is however, I was doing the testing on the Nav Bus behind the navigation station.  When I test elsewhere, I still have house bank voltage on the positive side.

My situation is basically identical to Marks’.  My Masse Light is working, When I install a jumper wire from the positive terminal on the Nav Bus to bonding and turn the Masse Light to + the light shines brightly.  Likewise, when I do the same using the negative terminal and turn the Masse Light to - the light shines brightly.  However, with no jumper wires installed, I get no illumination at all, and I have checked in the dead of night.

So as you said, there has to be a connection somewhere, but also like Mark, the leak has to be small if the Masse Light does not illuminate correct?

Is there a way to check current flow through the bonding wire with a multi meter?  If so, what is the procedure?

One last question.  I searched for the abbreviation “ve” but could not find anything.  I assume it means voltage but is there anything special about using ve vs V?

All the best,

Paul Stascavage
SM #466 - s/v Rita Kathryn
Currently Exploring Huntington, NY

www.RitaKathryn.com


Tablet Mount

Chuck_Kim_Joy
 

Hi All,

I am interested in mounting an ipad in the nav station area. Something non-marring not permanent no holes. If you have a picture of your setup that would be great. Thanks for your time. 

Chuck and Kim 

sv Joy 388

Le Marin Martinique 


Re: Additional webbing above tack on Q-Sails Genoa Question

 

I do not have a photo. About 6-8 months ago I sent this photo to Emerah at QSails and suggested that he add it for all Amel owners:
Was it something like this?
image.png


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar

On Sat, Sep 11, 2021 at 11:03 AM Michael & Robyn <SY_RIPPLE@...> wrote:
Greetings!

When we helped mounting the new Genoa from Q-Sails on a friends SM I noticed that the sail had an additional webbing above the tack going horizontally across the luff. This allowed to lash the bottom part of the luff closer to the furling profile. I thought this was very clever. Our Genoa made by a different sail-maker in the US does not have this. The bottom 3 feed below the opening where the Genoa's luff is feed into  the groove of the profile is always pulled out. Maybe it is not supposed to to be feed into the grove.
Does anyone have a picture of a Q-Sails Genoa with the extra webbing above the tack?
Any recommendation how you lash the tack of your Genoa to stay in the bottom part of the groove?
Or should the sail not be feed into the bottom 3 feet of the profile?

Thank you in advance for any feedback
--
Michael & Robyn

SY RIPPLE SM2K # 417
currently Brunswick Landing Marina, GA


Additional webbing above tack on Q-Sails Genoa Question

Michael & Robyn
 

Greetings!

When we helped mounting the new Genoa from Q-Sails on a friends SM I noticed that the sail had an additional webbing above the tack going horizontally across the luff. This allowed to lash the bottom part of the luff closer to the furling profile. I thought this was very clever. Our Genoa made by a different sail-maker in the US does not have this. The bottom 3 feed below the opening where the Genoa's luff is feed into  the groove of the profile is always pulled out. Maybe it is not supposed to to be feed into the grove.
Does anyone have a picture of a Q-Sails Genoa with the extra webbing above the tack?
Any recommendation how you lash the tack of your Genoa to stay in the bottom part of the groove?
Or should the sail not be feed into the bottom 3 feet of the profile?

Thank you in advance for any feedback
--
Michael & Robyn

SY RIPPLE SM2K # 417
currently Brunswick Landing Marina, GA


Re: randomly occurring increases of engine temperature

 

Trevor,

Yes, you are correct about Johnson. Judy and I are fine, thanks.


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar

On Sat, Sep 11, 2021 at 10:25 AM Trevor Lusty <trevlusty@...> wrote:
Hi Bill,
         This all came about due to taking a detour into the Amazon for a few months. Loads of silt in the water, even sixty miles out of the delta the water was still chocolate brown.
When I came to Ireland I was chatting to some of the local fishermen who told me it was quite normal for them to change out the seawater pumps on their trawlers as they often will plough through sand to get into various bays where they can get a good haul of prawns.
Am I right that the pump on that Yanmar would have been a Swedish make - Johnson?
Best to You & Judy.
Trevor


Re: randomly occurring increases of engine temperature

Trevor Lusty
 

Hi Bill,
         This all came about due to taking a detour into the Amazon for a few months. Loads of silt in the water, even sixty miles out of the delta the water was still chocolate brown.
When I came to Ireland I was chatting to some of the local fishermen who told me it was quite normal for them to change out the seawater pumps on their trawlers as they often will plough through sand to get into various bays where they can get a good haul of prawns.
Am I right that the pump on that Yanmar would have been a Swedish make - Johnson?
Best to You & Judy.
Trevor


Re: randomly occurring increases of engine temperature

 


Raw Water Pump Chamber Wear:
That is an interesting point. I searched for the diameter of new raw water pump chambers and could not find any dimensions for the Onan/Sherwood 702 pump which is on most Onan generators, the Volvo engines, and the Yanmar engines. I think this may be something that an owner would want to know. If any of you happen to have new pumps as a spare, please measure the inside diameter of the raw water pump chamber and reply.

Impeller Blade Wear at the Tip of the Blade:
I have never measured the wear to the inner wall, but have measured wear to the impeller blade tips and found a reduction in diameter of a little more than 2mm. This wear happens for 2 reasons: Hours of use and the cleanliness of the inner wall. The inner wall of a seawater pump will become crusty to the touch from the buildup of minerals. The more abrasive the inner wall is the more wear. The inner wall should be cleaned each time an impeller is changed with a combination of 600 grit wet/dry and Scotchbrite pad.

Sadly, many people think that impellers only need to be replaced when the blades tear off and the engine overheats. 
image.png

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar

On Fri, Sep 10, 2021 at 10:51 PM Trevor Lusty <trevlusty@...> wrote:
Jose,
       I had a similar problem. with the Yanmar engine in my SM for almost a year which drove me mad. Finally I bought a new sea water engine pump more out of desperation than discovering the actual fault.
When fitting the new pump I had the old and new pumps sitting together in the cockpit.  I thought I was imagining it, bit when I checked the old one with my callipers the chamber that houses the impeller was almost 2mm wider than the new one from wear. 
Fitted the new pump and the temperature returned to and stayed at 80C.
Trevor Lusty
Ireland


Re: Solar panels stainless steel mounted vs soft panels

Slavko Despotovic
 

Bellow is set up I have tested during first year of ownership of Bonne Anse. It is very improvised but gave me some result. This are all together 150W at 24V, From May to September it generated 15-20% of my needs. Between 650 to 1000Wh. For next season I will be installing two flexible solar panel 150W 36V so it will generate twice the energy. This position I found very good. Most likely I will add two 180W flexible bellow the boom in direction to mast.
--
Slavko
SM 2000
#279 Bonne Anse iin Umag, Croatia


Re: 24V+ Isolated Ground Leak

 

Porter,

I believe that Amel did not start connecting the rigging to binding until the A54 production. Paul has a late-model SM, and possibly it began then.


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar

On Fri, Sep 10, 2021 at 10:36 PM Porter McRoberts via groups.io <portermcroberts=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Paul. 
Do you have continuity between the negative pole of the 24 system and the rigging, when testing with a multimeter?

If there is a closed circuit, you should.  

Porter
A54-152


On Sep 11, 2021, at 1:43 PM, Paul Stascavage via groups.io <pstas2003=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

Bill R.,

Those wires appear to go to the stereo system amplifier, but they are not the root of the problem as disconnecting them didn’t make the issue go away.  However, I am keeping then disconnected until I can find a better negative terminal to connect them to.

Alan,

In my earlier post, I thought that I had identified the problem circuit as being the instruments/devices connected to the Navigation Breaker as I was not seeing house bank voltage when testing with the breaker off.  The problem is however, I was doing the testing on the Nav Bus behind the navigation station.  When I test elsewhere, I still have house bank voltage on the positive side.

My situation is basically identical to Marks’.  My Masse Light is working, When I install a jumper wire from the positive terminal on the Nav Bus to bonding and turn the Masse Light to + the light shines brightly.  Likewise, when I do the same using the negative terminal and turn the Masse Light to - the light shines brightly.  However, with no jumper wires installed, I get no illumination at all, and I have checked in the dead of night.

So as you said, there has to be a connection somewhere, but also like Mark, the leak has to be small if the Masse Light does not illuminate correct?

Is there a way to check current flow through the bonding wire with a multi meter?  If so, what is the procedure?

One last question.  I searched for the abbreviation “ve” but could not find anything.  I assume it means voltage but is there anything special about using ve vs V?

All the best,

Paul Stascavage
SM #466 - s/v Rita Kathryn
Currently Exploring Huntington, NY

www.RitaKathryn.com


Re: 24V+ Isolated Ground Leak

Alan Leslie
 

Hi Paul,

In reverse order I write -ve when I mean negative....

Current through the bonding wire....you can disconnect the wire, put your multimeter on the lowest current range (you probably will need to move the red plug on the meter) and measure between the bonding wire and what ever it was connected to.
I doubt you'd be able to measure anything if your MASSE light doesn't light up....it's probably microamps....

The foolproof, and tedious way to find it is to first unplug all your AC to DC powered devices, if you still have the Calpeda pump and it's bonding connection, and see if it goes away.
Then disconnect the -ve on each DC device which has a bonding wire .... this should be ONLY devices that have metallic contact with seawater. .. until you find the disconnection that makes the stray voltage go away. In my case above it was an AC device that was causing the issue, but I have had it with macerator pumps also. 
As I said before, if you find a DC device that has a bonding wire and ISN'T in contact with seawater, remove it.

Porter's question below.....

On an SM (could different on a 54) the rigging is not connected to the bonding or battery -ve (unless someone has deliberately made that connection)...you should read no continuity between the rigging and bonding, or rigging and battery negative.

In any event, your issue is that there is a connection, somewhere between 24V -ve and the bonding.

Trust that helps

Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: 24V+ Isolated Ground Leak

Nick Newington
 

A year or two ago the Masse -ve lit up faintly…
I had fun finding a leak. Eventually diagnosed and fixed by cleaning the built up carbon from the Bowthruster motor and the main anchor windlass.  
The light came on the negative test but only faintly. The builtl up carbon  linked the motor negative side to Bowthruster case which is bonded to the rudder anode.
Ditto with windlass.
Worth checking.
Nick
SV Amelia
Leros Gr


On 11 Sep 2021, at 04:36, Porter McRoberts via groups.io <portermcroberts@...> wrote:

Paul. 
Do you have continuity between the negative pole of the 24 system and the rigging, when testing with a multimeter?

If there is a closed circuit, you should.  

Porter
A54-152


On Sep 11, 2021, at 1:43 PM, Paul Stascavage via groups.io <pstas2003@...> wrote:

Bill R.,

Those wires appear to go to the stereo system amplifier, but they are not the root of the problem as disconnecting them didn’t make the issue go away.  However, I am keeping then disconnected until I can find a better negative terminal to connect them to.

Alan,

In my earlier post, I thought that I had identified the problem circuit as being the instruments/devices connected to the Navigation Breaker as I was not seeing house bank voltage when testing with the breaker off.  The problem is however, I was doing the testing on the Nav Bus behind the navigation station.  When I test elsewhere, I still have house bank voltage on the positive side.

My situation is basically identical to Marks’.  My Masse Light is working, When I install a jumper wire from the positive terminal on the Nav Bus to bonding and turn the Masse Light to + the light shines brightly.  Likewise, when I do the same using the negative terminal and turn the Masse Light to - the light shines brightly.  However, with no jumper wires installed, I get no illumination at all, and I have checked in the dead of night.

So as you said, there has to be a connection somewhere, but also like Mark, the leak has to be small if the Masse Light does not illuminate correct?

Is there a way to check current flow through the bonding wire with a multi meter?  If so, what is the procedure?

One last question.  I searched for the abbreviation “ve” but could not find anything.  I assume it means voltage but is there anything special about using ve vs V?

All the best,

Paul Stascavage
SM #466 - s/v Rita Kathryn
Currently Exploring Huntington, NY

www.RitaKathryn.com


Re: randomly occurring increases of engine temperature

Trevor Lusty
 

Jose,
       I had a similar problem. with the Yanmar engine in my SM for almost a year which drove me mad. Finally I bought a new sea water engine pump more out of desperation than discovering the actual fault.
When fitting the new pump I had the old and new pumps sitting together in the cockpit.  I thought I was imagining it, bit when I checked the old one with my callipers the chamber that houses the impeller was almost 2mm wider than the new one from wear. 
Fitted the new pump and the temperature returned to and stayed at 80C.
Trevor Lusty
Ireland


Re: 24V+ Isolated Ground Leak

Porter McRoberts
 

Paul. 
Do you have continuity between the negative pole of the 24 system and the rigging, when testing with a multimeter?

If there is a closed circuit, you should.  

Porter
A54-152


On Sep 11, 2021, at 1:43 PM, Paul Stascavage via groups.io <pstas2003@...> wrote:

Bill R.,

Those wires appear to go to the stereo system amplifier, but they are not the root of the problem as disconnecting them didn’t make the issue go away.  However, I am keeping then disconnected until I can find a better negative terminal to connect them to.

Alan,

In my earlier post, I thought that I had identified the problem circuit as being the instruments/devices connected to the Navigation Breaker as I was not seeing house bank voltage when testing with the breaker off.  The problem is however, I was doing the testing on the Nav Bus behind the navigation station.  When I test elsewhere, I still have house bank voltage on the positive side.

My situation is basically identical to Marks’.  My Masse Light is working, When I install a jumper wire from the positive terminal on the Nav Bus to bonding and turn the Masse Light to + the light shines brightly.  Likewise, when I do the same using the negative terminal and turn the Masse Light to - the light shines brightly.  However, with no jumper wires installed, I get no illumination at all, and I have checked in the dead of night.

So as you said, there has to be a connection somewhere, but also like Mark, the leak has to be small if the Masse Light does not illuminate correct?

Is there a way to check current flow through the bonding wire with a multi meter?  If so, what is the procedure?

One last question.  I searched for the abbreviation “ve” but could not find anything.  I assume it means voltage but is there anything special about using ve vs V?

All the best,

Paul Stascavage
SM #466 - s/v Rita Kathryn
Currently Exploring Huntington, NY

www.RitaKathryn.com

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