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Re: Gas struts for cockpit access
Ron,
I am working on installing gas struts. That cockpit floor is getting heavy. I'll send you the specs of the struts I picked and the location (tried a couple of spots, did not work). -- John Bernard "JB" Duler San Francisco Meltem # 19, Western Med
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Re: B&G Sonic Speed sensors replacement
David Crisp
Gary, excellent description and encouraging, thanks. I too have been feeling nervous about tackling this job but your description is great and the above waterline cable exit is reassuring (I'd expect nothing else of Amel!).
I have an A54 (#58 2007) and so far have been unable to find the route the cables take from the transducers to the computer. In my case the B&G sonic computer is located in the locker under the forward athwartships saloon table seat. See attached photo. This is the only place I can see the transducer cables, I hope it is possible to pull the cables around the various corners through to here. Does anyone know the route these cables take and if there is any other point to access/feed them on an A54? It appears the transducer cables have been bundled up rather than cut. Is this significant? Does cable length matter because of signal processing/timing? I will be hauling out in a couple of weeks and will I'll tackle this job then, will share anything I learn. Best, David Crisp SV Wilna Grace Amel 54 #58
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Re: Shore - Generator Switch-over box on A54
#solution
Mohammad Shirloo
Hi Reudi;
I agree. I was just trying to point out that this chaining of inverter/charger approach has the possibility of almost matching the generator output with units that are manageable in size and weight. Also, the inversion is not the only advantage. By having a potential 300A charging capability, a large portion of the load of the bowthruster can be removed from the batteries. Also, it provides redundancy for both the chargers and inverters, as one of these units could provide sufficient capability, until a defective unit can be replaced. They can all be monitored and configured through the MV Bluetooth and panel.
As others have pointed out, on our 54 #099, we have a vertical plywood bulkhead that the inverter and the 100A charger is mounted on. The inverter/charger is only slightly taller than the original inverter and I was able to install vertically with slight modifications to the mounting channel on the new inverter/charger.
Happy Sailing;
Mohammad and Aty B&B Kokomo AMEL 54 #099
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
On Behalf Of Rudolf Waldispuehl via groups.io
Sent: Sunday, September 19, 2021 2:25 PM To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Shore - Generator Switch-over box on A54 #solution
Hello Mohammad
This is a lot of Inverting power. You probably not need that much unless you want to run everything simultaneously in the boat 😉 Nevertheless, I ordered the MV MassCombiPro 24/3500W since I have already 2 Solar controllers separately and do not need in the same box. Queston: Did you installed the MV Mass Combi Ultra 24/3500 at the same place/pedestal where the 2500W inverter was? Or you found another place? - I’m asking because the installation manual says it should be installed vertical and the existing A54 inverter pedestal is somehow more horizontal then vertical. I guess you use it as 2500W inverter replacement and not for charging? So probably no issue with the ventilation so far?
Thanks for advice and best regards Ruedi Waldispuehl WASABI A54. #55 Currently in Gibraltar
Von: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
im Auftrag von Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...>
Hello Ian;
My knowledge of the LN175 and Dolphin charger is limited, so I will not be of much help there. I can share with you our current approach for our charging and inversion plans, as we make the necessary upgrades, as equipment fails.
Our 2500W Mastervolt inverter failed at the end of the 2019 season. We would like to use the existing charger wiring in the engine room. We have replaced our inverter with a MV Mass Combi Ultra 24/3500. These inverter /chargers can charge at 100A, provide 3500W 220V and have solar controllers built in. They can also be connected in series for additional charging and inversion output. We intend to have 2 in series, giving us 200A charging/7000 W inversion. We will still have our existing 40A MV charger, for a total of 240A charging. I have not checked the existing 40A charging wiring size. It is possible to add a third combi Ultra for max of 300A charging and 10,500W of inversion. The Combi Ultra can also be programmed to limit the charge/inversion output to match the wiring size. The plan is to be able to supply the entire 220V panel from the inverters.
We have not gone far down the design phase, as this is some time away for us. However, I like the small size (same appx footprint as the inverter we replaced) and light weight of combi/ultra. We should be able to fit 2 and possibly three in the same footprint and location of the existing chargers. Minimal wiring and full integration, monitoring and control of the Lithium batteries, chargers, inverters and solar.
All of this is very preliminary. In the next 2-3 years that it will take for us to be ready to make the upgrade, I’m sure may thing have changed that will require changes to our basic design concept.
Respectfully;
Mohammad and Aty B&B Kokomo Amel 54 #099
From:
main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
On Behalf Of Ian Fraser via groups.io
Mohammad,
Thank you for your insights on Lithium. We are in a similar situation and agree that Lithium is too early for us.
Will really appreciate your guidance on best solutions for changes to LN175 alternator (and Dolphin 100A Charger) when upgrading to 8AGM 105Ahr on AMEL54 #009.
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Re: Shore - Generator Switch-over box on A54
#solution
Hi Ruedi,
Sorry to barge in like this but I actually installed the MV Mass Combi Ultra 24/3500 as well so maybe you want to know what I did as well. In the later 54's the MV inverter is actually placed to the left of the two (Mastervolt) chargers (40&100A). There is sort of bulkhead there so the inverter faces in the direction of the bow. I managed (just about) to put the Combi there. As the Combi has all the switchover gear build into the box I decided to remove the Amel relay-system that sits above the waterheater and connect the shore power and generator to the Combi. The Amel relay-system tends to fail when it gets old so for me it was part of the preventive maintenance scheme as well. I did however introduce a new relais that is driven by the secondary 24V output of the 100A Chargemaster. What it does is it disconnects the shorepower from the Combi, causing it to activate the inverter. By doing this I effectively build a 60Hz to 50Hz converter using the batteries as an intermediate, the 100A Chargemaster as a charger using the shore-power and the Combi supplying 230V/50hz for the appliances that require this. I do agree that 3 Combi's seems a bit excessive to me. Personally if you would like to convert to electric cooking I think adding a stand alone inverter makes more sense. The reason I got the Ultra is because it adds the solar charger to the Masterbus network. I'm using it for the solar on top of the bimini. The panels on the arch are using the stand alone controller from MV. Most of my power systems are MV. It's only their Lithium solution that is stupid expensive. If you want I can provide you with a schematic diagram of the system. By the way the 2500W inverter is actually a 2000W inverter, 2.5 KVA is only peak power. Cheers, Arno Luijten SV Luna, A54-121
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10 photos uploaded
#photo-notice
main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification <noreply@...>
The following photos have been uploaded to the Sonic Speed Sensor Replacement SM album of the main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io group.
By: CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
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Re: B&G Sonic Speed sensors replacement
You can find the photos Gary mentioned at https://amelyachtowners.groups.io/g/main/album?id=268273
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Re: Amel 55 Hardtop & Mainsheet question
Joerg, thanks for that
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Re: Tinkling Sound
Paul Harries
Interesting factoid
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
As we get older we loose high frequency hearing, as this is often an assymetric our localisation skill for sound deteriorates.
--
Paul Harries Prospective Amel Buyer
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Re: Lithium Battery BMS
Willem,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
I know about the Chinese battery option which is extremely cheap compare to a more integrated solution. But since my boat is in the Caribbean at the moment I am looking for a solution I can buy there. I am looking for a solution which can be integrated with my existing équipent. I got a quote for 2 batteries Mastervolt 24 volts 200 ah each MLI 5500 for a total of 8000 us in Sint Marteen (no tax) This solution could be fully integrated with my Mastervolt alternator and my two battery chargers. I still need to check for availability… I have not yet made my mind… Envoyé de mon iPhone
Le 19 sept. 2021 à 14:43, Willem Kroes <kavanga@...> a écrit :
--
Juan de Zulueta OPHELIE X Super Maramu #32
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Re: Tinkling Sound
amelforme
Hi Kent and Iris. This is actually a common phenomenon. I’m am all but sure if you slack your jib halyard this resonance will disappear. This has happened to me and many others as well. If that doesn’t work, get an exorcist…
Hope you two are well and smiling. Vela and I are.
All the best, Joel
JOEL F. POTTER ~ CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST, L.L.C. The Experienced AMEL Guy UNSURPASSED AMEL MARKETING EXPERIENCE AND PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE Office 954-462-5869 Cell 954-812-2485
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of karkauai via groups.io
Sent: Sunday, September 19, 2021 9:31 AM To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Tinkling Sound
OK, This is a bit difficult for me, as my ears are so bad that I can't hear it, but it's driving Iris to distraction. It just started a week or so ago, and nothing had changed except we anchored in Woods Hole, MA, USA. It's still present on a mooring in Martha's Vineyard. At anchor, when the wind is up and the boat is moving, she hears a very high pitched tinkling, like wind chimes made of glass. It is constant in higher wind, intermittent in less wind, and all but disappears in light winds. It doesn't seem to match the rhythm of the boat's movement, but as the wind picks up and the boat moves more it gets louder. It seems to be louder in the area of the forward head, but difficult to pinpoint. She can't hear it on deck or in the cockpit. Using a stethoscope on the masts, booms, bulkheads, and decking hasn't helped, in fact she can't hear it at all when using the stethoscope. So it seems to be transmitted by air rather than water & hull...except that she hears it in the boat and not on deck. It's not like shrimp or crustations, more musical. KRISTY SM243
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Re: LED under cabinet lighting
Mark & Debbie Mueller
We added 24 volt single color LED’s with a dimmer. They are working great – as said before, a HUGE difference. I choose 36 LED per foot to avoid any shadowing. I used the adhesive back to mount the strip however an aluminum mounting rail is available. They can be cut to length so I wired two strips together, one over the sink area and the other over the cooktop/microwave area. The LED’s and dimmer we purchased from SuperBrightLEDs.com:
STW-A50K90-C6F-10C5M-24V: Cool White 5000K LED LDK-8A: Single Color LED Dimmer. -- Mark Mueller Brass Ring A54
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Re: B&G Sonic Speed sensors replacement
Hi Michele:
I will echo what Jason Rutledge posted and perhaps amplify the procedure. I provided about a dozen photos to Bill and perhaps he will post them if he hasn't done so already.. Jason and I did this job together. It is a two person job. The sensors and cables run in smooth plastic chases (pipes) from their position below the waterline to a position above the waterline so no sealing is necessary. Our sensors (SM Hull # 335) were not sealed in any way, however, they are a loose interference fit in their recesses/counter-bores. I have been told by Bill that some were sealed with 3M 5200 or other type sealant. The plastic wire chase for the forward sensor comes up just in front of the forward seat of the saloon table. The wire exits the chase at this point, makes a "U" turn and re-enters a chase that goes to starboard, enters a fiberglass chase that end in the cabinet where the sonic speed computer is located (next to, and forward of the starboard side fore-aft saloon seat). The rear sensor, that is on the leading edge of the stub keel has a chase that appears in the aft, under-table, athwart-ship locker beneath the saloon table. It is encased in a semi-clear hose that takes it further above waterline and enters the same fiberglass chase that takes the cable to the computer. It is easiest to remove this hose at the fixed chase in the under-table locker so you are only working with 2-3 feet (1 meter) of cable. Start by identifying the routing of both cables. Next, remove (gently pull on) the 1/2 in (1.5cm) long rubber covering of the transducers at the hull forward and aft transducer positions. You will find underlying those rubber transducer covers a ceramic like plastic face of the actual sonic transducer. The rubber acts as a protectant "sonic coupling". Use a drill to gently and patiently drill a small hole in the face of the transducer to a depth of about 1/2 inch. Into that hole thread an appropriately sized sheet metal screw (coarse thread) such that it has good grip on the coupling but doesn't fracture it or expand it creating excess drag. Next, while a person inside the boat pushes on the transducer cable (close to the chase so as to exert pressure on the cable without kinking it), gently and patiently pull on the previously inserted screw in the transducer to extract it from its counterbore (recess). In our case these slid out with minimal traction. There was no evidence of marine growth or other "cementing" adhesives. The blunt end of the chase tube is positioned such that it provides a shoulder for the counter-bore that exactly positions the transducer so that it CANNOT be seated too deeply into the recess. Exact distance between the transducers is important and has been expertly calculated by Amel. You use the old cable as a messenger line to pull the new wire into place. In our case I cut off the old transducer, stripped a small section of cable cover and I soldered the wires of the old and new together. It takes minimal traction to pull the new wire into place. I lubricated the new transducer and counter-bore with silicone grease and it slid into place easily. I WOULD NOT SEAL THIS TRANSDUCER WITH ANY KIND OF SEALANT AS IT ISN'T NECESSARY AND WILL ONLY MAKE THIS TASK MORE DIFFICULT IF IT NEEDS TO BE REPEATED IN THE FUTURE. AGAIN, the chases ends above waterline and there is no need to seal the transducers. Thread the respective cables thru their respective hose and/or chase to the computer making sure you somehow label them as fore and aft (as this will be required for proper connection). Use the old cables as messenger lines Cut the cables long enough to have a proper service loop (copy what Amel did). Strip the insulation and extract the wires from the shielding. Attach at the computer in the same manner as previously. See the information in the files section for setting the dial in the computer for illumination of the calibrating red LED. Calibration is also done on the B & G Multi-function display at the nav station (instructions in the installation manual for that unit as provided by Amel). If you have any questions don't hesitate to email me at garysilver at mac dot com. This was a relatively easy job that I had dreaded (unnecessarily it turns out) for years. You need someone to push/feed and someone to feed/pull at the same time, hence the two person job. There is a bunch of information in the photos section and the files section on the Sonic Speed. I did trim the rubber coupler fair with the face of their hull and keel faces (at a more marked angle for the keel coupler) by gently slicing with a razor blade. Try to make a smooth cut. Also read this: https://amelyachtowners.groups.io/g/main/files/B%20&%20G%20Sonic%20Speed%20Information/SonicSpeedTroubleshooting.pdf All the best, Gary S. Silver, M.D., Farmington, UTAH, USA former owner of s/v Liahona (from new to age 20 years) Amel SM 2000 # 335 now owned by Jason Rutledge
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Gas struts for cockpit access
Ron Hynes <riffhynes@...>
The gas struts that assist opening the cockpit floor and holding the hatch open are seriously deteriorated on my boat. Rather than reinvent the wheel, I was wondering if anyone has found a source and knows the specs for these struts. I have an older Meltem, but I’ve seen the cockpit access up through super maramus and they are pretty much the same.
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Re: Tinkling Sound
This sounds like a high frequency resonance issue.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
With high frequency I would suspect a small component attached to something larger that catches the wind.
If you touch the offending item sound should disappear
If I were you I would check in following order
Tension in shrouds
All turnbuckles, shackles and pins including contact with spreaders.
If nothing found change tension in halyards one at a time to see if sound changes, if it changes check all tackle that halyard in contact with.
Also consider touching electrical cables from mast in ceiling one at a time, if sound vanishes you have identified source. Remember if you touch stethoscope to offending item you will change resonant frequency and sound will disappear.
One other possible cause is internal partial failure of one of standing rigging cables with broken strands.
All this being said don't forget the obvious. I once saw a patient complaining that his implanted neurostimulator was playing music. Turned out his phone had butt dialed a bahamas number and he had been hearing hold music from his jacket pocket! The two hour international call was fairly expensive!
--
Paul Harries Prospective Amel Buyer
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Re: Amel 55 Hardtop & Mainsheet question
For what it’s worth, the boat I test sailed in 2015 had the main sheet go to the mizzen mast, as does my boat. There is a risk with that arrangement that the sheet will wrap around the corner of the roof if the extension is pulled out. I avoid that by using the bingos you can see in this picture. The bungee pulls the main sheet forward of the corner if there is little tension on the sheet like in a light air jibe. Joerg Esdorn
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Tinkling Sound
OK, This is a bit difficult for me, as my ears are so bad that I can't hear it, but it's driving Iris to distraction. It just started a week or so ago, and nothing had changed except we anchored in Woods Hole, MA, USA. It's still present on a mooring in Martha's Vineyard. At anchor, when the wind is up and the boat is moving, she hears a very high pitched tinkling, like wind chimes made of glass. It is constant in higher wind, intermittent in less wind, and all but disappears in light winds. It doesn't seem to match the rhythm of the boat's movement, but as the wind picks up and the boat moves more it gets louder. It seems to be louder in the area of the forward head, but difficult to pinpoint. She can't hear it on deck or in the cockpit. Using a stethoscope on the masts, booms, bulkheads, and decking hasn't helped, in fact she can't hear it at all when using the stethoscope. So it seems to be transmitted by air rather than water & hull...except that she hears it in the boat and not on deck. It's not like shrimp or crustations, more musical.
We're stumped. She suggests the possibility of a ghost ship with wind chimes. I've suggested maybe it's all in her head (but her description doesn't sound like tinnitus). Anyone else experience anything like this? Any ideas? Thanks Kent & Iris KRISTY
SM243 Heading S to Chesapeake.
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Re: Lithium Battery BMS
Juan,
These batteries were/are almost drop-in replacements. Almost, because they are a little higher than the lead-acid batteries Amel used. Dimensions: 329 x 171 x 235 mm. I had to cut off a few millimeters from the bar under the lid of the battery compartment (the bar that prevents upward movements of the batteries). I paid by the end of 2016 USD 4.373 for the 8 batteries plus 2 extra BMS plus 2 extra empty cases excluded VAT and import duties, but shipping cost included. Since then prices have gone down. I don’t know if Yinkai Power is still selling the 100 Ah battery, but there are a lot of other companies in the Shenzen area to sell these. For example: Polinovel 12v 100ah lithium ion battery manufacturer.
SM #351 Kavanga Now in Licate on Sicily
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Re: Shore - Generator Switch-over box on A54
#solution
Hello Mohammad
This is a lot of Inverting power. You probably not need that much unless you want to run everything simultaneously in the boat 😉 Nevertheless, I ordered the MV MassCombiPro 24/3500W since I have already 2 Solar controllers separately and do not need in the same box. Queston: Did you installed the MV Mass Combi Ultra 24/3500 at the same place/pedestal where the 2500W inverter was? Or you found another place? - I’m asking because the installation manual says it should be installed vertical and the existing A54 inverter pedestal is somehow more horizontal then vertical. I guess you use it as 2500W inverter replacement and not for charging? So probably no issue with the ventilation so far?
Thanks for advice and best regards Ruedi Waldispuehl WASABI A54. #55 Currently in Gibraltar
Von: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> im Auftrag von Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...>
Hello Ian;
My knowledge of the LN175 and Dolphin charger is limited, so I will not be of much help there. I can share with you our current approach for our charging and inversion plans, as we make the necessary upgrades, as equipment fails.
Our 2500W Mastervolt inverter failed at the end of the 2019 season. We would like to use the existing charger wiring in the engine room. We have replaced our inverter with a MV Mass Combi Ultra 24/3500. These inverter /chargers can charge at 100A, provide 3500W 220V and have solar controllers built in. They can also be connected in series for additional charging and inversion output. We intend to have 2 in series, giving us 200A charging/7000 W inversion. We will still have our existing 40A MV charger, for a total of 240A charging. I have not checked the existing 40A charging wiring size. It is possible to add a third combi Ultra for max of 300A charging and 10,500W of inversion. The Combi Ultra can also be programmed to limit the charge/inversion output to match the wiring size. The plan is to be able to supply the entire 220V panel from the inverters.
We have not gone far down the design phase, as this is some time away for us. However, I like the small size (same appx footprint as the inverter we replaced) and light weight of combi/ultra. We should be able to fit 2 and possibly three in the same footprint and location of the existing chargers. Minimal wiring and full integration, monitoring and control of the Lithium batteries, chargers, inverters and solar.
All of this is very preliminary. In the next 2-3 years that it will take for us to be ready to make the upgrade, I’m sure may thing have changed that will require changes to our basic design concept.
Respectfully;
Mohammad and Aty B&B Kokomo Amel 54 #099
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Ian Fraser via groups.io
Sent: Friday, September 17, 2021 2:16 PM To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io Cc: Ian Fraser <keyproperties@...> Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Shore - Generator Switch-over box on A54 #solution
Mohammad,
Thank you for your insights on Lithium. We are in a similar situation and agree that Lithium is too early for us.
Will really appreciate your guidance on best solutions for changes to LN175 alternator (and Dolphin 100A Charger) when upgrading to 8AGM 105Ahr on AMEL54 #009.
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Re: B&G Sonic Speed sensors replacement
Marco Mancini
Dear Michele we did last year because our probe failed and I have tried with success to replace the older one instead to put a new probe for several reasons . We replaced ( my sailor man didi) both the sensors because we had to buy for about 300 US $ . The cables run into a dedicated pipelines ( you may easily see upper part of the one relative to the probe that look forward ) just in the compartment below the table dinette where you will see the cable inside a transparent pipe. You can exract the probe and cable from the housing in the keel using a witness cable and insert the new one pulling the witness cable from inside. You need to seel the probe in the keel with neoprene . Check that the reading geometry of the front and rear probe is the same. I hope this may help sincerely Marco Mancini
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Re: Converting my Amel 54 to lithium batteries: what I did, what I like and what I don't like (after one year of full time live aboard use)
Hi Scott
Hope you are doing well and everything is ok on board.
Next week we start to work on the LFP project and it came to my mind I have read somewhere that the AC cooling pump in the engine room is not sourced from the main 240V board. It is sourced in the engine room and somebody mentioned that AC pump after changing and rewiring to LFP was not working due to of this because Climma power box is in the engine room.
I don’t remember it was you or maybe someone else? To my understanding, if not rewired on a strange way it should still work. How is this in your case using the AC on LFP or you had to re-wire the 240V for the Pump in the Engine room?
Best regards Ruedi
==========================
Jamie,
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Currently in Trinite sur Mer
Currently in Trinite sur Mer