Date   

Re: What to do with LiFePO4 batteries when the boat is layed up?

Scott SV Tengah
 

Joerg,

My understanding of the ideal SOC for storage is based on two things:

(1) I read the objective, peer reviewed research literature which all seem to point towards longer life at around 40-60% SOC for long term storage (hey, passages can be long and boring!)
(2) My conversation with a senior Victron tech to clarify whether they suggest the same.

What was explained to me "off the record" is that the research literature is correct that 40-60% maximizes lifepo4 life. But a manufacturer's primary goal is to minimize customer complaints and concerns and a secondary goal is to maximize longevity. And he jokingly said "and if batteries last forever, we'd go out of business".

Charging to 80% is the foolproof way to go, for sure as it reduces the likelihood of low voltage battery death in the off chance that the charger/power source is cut off. The cost of this is reduced longevity.

I opted to follow the objective research. Time will tell whether that research is correct.


--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Re: Test plug on a 54 Volvo 110 D3

Scott SV Tengah
 

Bertrand,

The readout comes from the little LCD panel below the tach. At least it does on my D3-110C. I presume your tach has an LCD panel, too?
--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Goiot Hatch Mushroom Alternative

Bill Kinney
 

One of the minor parts that has a finite lifetime on a SM is the Goiot rubber "mushrooms" that hold the portlights open. Eventually they crack and the rubber rots and they just don't work right. Finding them from Goiot at any price is a challenge, and when you find them they are EXPENSIVE.

Here is an alternative.  We were wandering through a chandlery, when Karen spotted these fittings made by SouthCo Marine.  They are designed from latching down the lid of an ice chest or similar item, but work great at holding the portlights open.  If you don't know SouthCo, there are worth putting in your bookmarks.  They manufacture a lot of hardware fittings and bits that are otherwise hard to find.

https://amzn.to/3AUiYhH



Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA


Re: Main Outhaul gearbox ware to buy

Bill Kinney
 

Peter,

You have motor/gearbox units that were made by LeRoy Somers in France OR Bonfiglioli in Italy.  Amel switched back and forth between these suppliers during the SM production run, and I do not know which your boat is supplied with.  Both manufacturers still make these units as standard parts, and it will be cheaper to order them through the standard industrial distribution channels.  There is a catch however.  Although these are catalog items, they are also one of hundreds of variations and are built to order, and deliveries stretch out into several months the last I checked.

Amel typically maintains a stock of a few of these on their shelves.  When we needed one, we were more than willing to pay the extra cost to Amel for the convenience of having one delivered in days instead of months and being sure we got the right part.

For your information the jib furler is  an Amel bespoke part, and no longer manufactured.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA.


Re: Fresh Water Leak At Aft Head

karkauai
 

Hi, all,
I now have a fresh water leak into the bilge inboard of the aft head, too.  We've also noticed the fresh water pump running for a few seconds every couple of hours.  There has never been water found in the bilge until a boisterous sail last night, tacking into a 20kt wind. Found at least  10-12 liters there.  It's only barely salty to taste.  We haven't been running the AC, so guessing it's one of the supply lines for sink or shower.  Maybe it accumulated outboard of one of the stringers, then sloshed inboard when heeled?  Would that help diagnose where the leak is?
 
I've looked at the aft cabin side of the wall where the shower is, no evidence of a leak there.  Do I need to remove the shower valve assembly? Is there a space between the shower wall and the aft cabin wall?
Likewise no evidence of leak where the lines enter the bulkhead from the engine room to the aft sink.  Is this a double-walled bulkhead with a space between?
Thanks for any insight.
--
Kent & Iris
KRISTY
SM243


Re: Opacmare - replacing sensor

Arno Luijten
 

Hi Vladan,

In my case the sensors were the same as in the picture you made. Removing the cover is a bit of a pain. Remove the two screws on the side that is exposed when the passerelle is in the closed postion.
Next remove one of the screws that holds the two halves together at the back of the passerelle.
Now you should be able to remove the wooden slate on the top. In my case it is fixed with some sort of velcro. Now you can acces three screws on the top that loosen the second half. You will need to rotate the passerelle in and out to be able to access all three screws.
The connectors are on top directly under the cover (see enclosed picture).

Regards,
Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121


Re: Main Outhaul gearbox ware to buy

Jason Rutledge
 

Amel is a good source to get parts for your boat.

Maud TOUILLET

Service clientèle/Customer service

 

sav@...

Phone : +33 (0) 546 55 00 75

 

 

Chantiers AMEL S.A.

8 rue Joseph Cugnot - CS 80015 - 17183 Périgny cedex - France
--
Jason Rutledge
SV Liahona
SM 335


Re: Opacmare - replacing sensor

Lior Keydar
 

Dear Vladan

I replaced exactly the same sensors. I did not need to solder anything. The old ones were the same.
When the passerelle is in a close position, remove the two screws on the picture. After that, half of the cover comes out with the wooden part above.
Open the Passerelle and remove the third screw on the other side + another one that is located under the wood part and remove the second half of the cover.

Best,
Lior


Re: Opacmare - replacing sensor

Vladan SV PAME
 

Hi Arno, Lior and Tony

Arno,
Thanks for sharing your expertise.
I just received sensors this afternoon and will proceed with replacing them as soon as weather conditions allows me.
Before I start please let me know following:
- As of sensors connectors are they look like one on photo attached. Asking this because the guy from Greek dealership of Opacmare who sold me sensors keep saying that I need to cut connectors and solder sensor wires to existing wires. That doesn't sound right to me.
- As of removing SS cover of rotating part you are mentioning both parts. As far as I can see it's only one part that goes around rotating part and I can locate only 3 screws from the outside. Two on starboard side ( when passarella is out ) and one at the back. Is it any other screw inside that I should look for? See attached photo.

Lior,
Thanks for detailed explanation how to access to other end of sensor cable. That is exactly what I was looking for.

Tony,
Thanks for your advise. I hear same from some other Amel owners and that is first that I checked. Unfortunately sensor is dead.

For anyone else interested in this topic I'm attaching photo of label from manufacturer's packaging with Type and Part No of sensor and I'm sure that can be purchased somewhere else ( cheaper ) then Opacmare dealership.

Best Regards,
--
Vladan

A54 #157
SV PAME


Re: Air in the cooling system of CLIMMA Aircon

Billy Newport
 

I'm about to swap my broken climma cws201 with a Climma DC35 inverting unit. The cws unit had a refrigerant leak by the reversing valve which turns out to be impossible or very difficult to fix. So, replace seems only option. Finding a similar sized units is challenging, Dometic don't have one. Webasto only had smaller capacity units and the DC35 (even at 35k BTU vs 20k) fits in same volume and is an inverter based unit with those advtanges. It's also double the price. Should be installed end of October, lets see how well it works.


Re: B&G Sonic Speed sensors replacement

antonio scipioni
 

Hi Michele, 
If you live in Rome you can try to powerline by paolo ceccarelli that’s BeG dealer.
Br
Antonio
Vagabundo SN108
Tuscany 

Inviato da iPhone

Il giorno 19 set 2021, alle ore 12:52, Marco Mancini <marcomancini61@...> ha scritto:


Dear Michele we did last year because our probe failed and I have tried with success  to replace the older one instead to put a new probe for several  reasons  . We  replaced ( my sailor man didi)  both the sensors  because we had to buy for about 300 US $ .  The cables run into a dedicated pipelines ( you may  easily see upper part of the one relative to the probe that look forward ) just in the compartment below the table dinette where you will see the cable inside a transparent pipe.  
 You can exract the probe and cable from the housing in the keel using a witness cable  and insert the new one pulling the witness cable from inside. You need to seel the probe in the keel with neoprene .  Check that the reading geometry of the front and rear probe is the same. 
I hope this may help 
sincerely 

Marco Mancini

Il giorno 09 set 2021, alle ore 20:09, MICHELE LUCCIOLA <michelelucciol@...> ha scritto:

Hello and good evening from Rome
This summer I experienced  on  my SM2000 some troubles with the reading of the B&G speedometer.
I saw the documents in the files section, but there is not indication about how to replace them.
 I have to replace the sensors (that I have found in Ebay) but I'm not sure that this is an easy work ....especially to remove the old ones. Does anyone did this job before? I'm very scared about the sensor on the keel....I have seen that the sensors are two little plastic tubes but I don't know how they are fixed to the boat because there is no o'rings on the tube so I assumed that the tube is fixed with resin to the hull and to the keel....
If possible I prefer to replace the sonic speed sensors and don't do a new hole to instal a new sensor; for that reason I will be happy to receive comments from you
Thanks in advance
Michele


Re: Opacmare - replacing sensor

Arno Luijten
 
Edited

Hi Vladan,

I am by now an expert in this fantastic piece of Italian engineering.
You need to remove both covers of the rotating part of the passarelle. To do this you will need to rotate the passarelle into two positions. Under the cover you will find the connectors that connect the sensors to the wiring-loom that leads to the control box inside the locker. If you are lucky the connectors are still usable but you may find them very badly corroded.
Once you manage to replace the sensor make sure to cover the connectors with self-vulcanising tape to protect them.
The bad the news is that there are a lot of other things that can and will go bad with this thing, most of them very expensive. I spent about 20k$ by now on this thing.

Kind regards,
Arno Luijten
SV Luna
A54-121


Re: Air in the cooling system of CLIMMA Aircon

Arno Luijten
 

For our boat I have changed the Climma’s for Frigomar Inverter units (http://frigomar.com/). A huge improvement. They use less power, have no startup surge and are more quiet during operation. The rear unit (10k BTU) was a bit tricky to install because of the water connections but by using some 90 degree elbows and shortening the pipes I was able to install it quite handsomely.
I replaced the rear and the center one with Frigomar, the center one is now 16kBTU. The front one was taken from the center as that one was replace just before I bought the boat with a Webasto 9k model. I find this one not very well build. Whoever came up with the idea to use a fan with steel blades in a A/C unit should have his head examined as its rusting away as we speak.

Regards,
Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121


Re: Air in the cooling system of CLIMMA Aircon

amelforme
 

Glad they provided more room for the aft A/C unit in boats after Amel 54 # 14. My failed A/C unit needed to be deeply deconstructed for both the removal and reinstall. Or, maybe they tried something new on my boat. Will never know as the production manager from that time period is long retired and doesn’t like to remember his working days.

 

All the best,

Joel

 

           JOEL F. POTTER ~ CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST, L.L.C.

                                         The Experienced AMEL Guy

UNSURPASSED AMEL MARKETING EXPERIENCE AND PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE

                                  Office 954-462-5869  Cell 954-812-2485

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Dominique Sery via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, September 28, 2021 2:45 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Air in the cooling system of CLIMMA Aircon

 

Lior,

Changing the aft cabin air conditioning in the 54 didn't pose any major difficulties for me.  The new Climma compact 9000 has exactly the same dimensions and the same connections in the same places.  In the aft cabin, you have to remove the wooden panel where there is the air inlet opening (there are 4 wood screws to remove).  Then you have to remove the electrical connections as well as the water pipes.  Then you have to remove the fixings to the floor (4 wood screws to be removed blindly).  The unit can then be removed as a whole without any disassembly (I did this without scratching the woodwork).  For the installation of the new unit, it is the reverse procedure.

it was a bit more difficult for the saloon because the new Climma 12000 is bigger than the original.

 

Cordialement
Dominique
Irko A54#16
Kilada Greece


Re: Air in the cooling system of CLIMMA Aircon

Dominique Sery
 

Lior,

Changing the aft cabin air conditioning in the 54 didn't pose any major difficulties for me.  The new Climma compact 9000 has exactly the same dimensions and the same connections in the same places.  In the aft cabin, you have to remove the wooden panel where there is the air inlet opening (there are 4 wood screws to remove).  Then you have to remove the electrical connections as well as the water pipes.  Then you have to remove the fixings to the floor (4 wood screws to be removed blindly).  The unit can then be removed as a whole without any disassembly (I did this without scratching the woodwork).  For the installation of the new unit, it is the reverse procedure.

it was a bit more difficult for the saloon because the new Climma 12000 is bigger than the original.

 

Cordialement
Dominique
Irko A54#16
Kilada Greece


Re: Water maker - mental moment

rossirossix4
 

For us, the easiest way to check for a leak in the freshwater valve is to close the seacock to the main intake strainer/sea-chest and then remove the top of the strainer and disable the head intake pumps (you can flush using water jugs of sea or fresh water or fresh water from the sink or shower in the head), AC, etc.  Note the water level (you can pull out a few inches with the toilet supply pump before disabling it).  You can continue to use fresh water in the boat.  

After a few hours and certainly by 24 hours you will see a rise in the level in the strainer.  That water is coming from the leak and the 3-way valve needs to be replaced.

A leak in the 3 way can flood your generator and possibly your engine with fresh water under certain conditions.  This happened to us at the dock and we caught it just before it flooded the generator.  We had the sea-cock to the strainer closed and were using fresh water in the heads and weren't using AC.  Because the strainer seacock is closed water will force itself  through the raw water pumps of both the generator and engine filling the lift muffler and then exhaust loop before flowing out the exhaust  Water then floods the exhaust manifold of the engine and will flood the cylinders and then make its way into the oil pan.   For some reason the water does not exit the AC system which is lower.  Probably because of resistance in the one-way valve.

The main point is that the risk of a leaking 3-way can be more than just excessive fresh water usage.  It is well worth testing this, particularly if you are at dock with the sea-cock closed.  Hearing your fresh water pump cycle on during a period of non-water usage is a good reason to check for this or other leaks.

Bob     KAIMI 429


Re: Air in the cooling system of CLIMMA Aircon

Lior Keydar
 

Dear Dimitris, Dominique, and Joel

Thank you very much for your feedback. I am sure now that the right decision is to order exactly the same CLIMMA 9000 model. I just hope that it is still the same size.

I saw that It should not be easy to replace it. I just hope that the furniture is not glued and that it will be possible to take it apart with screws only.

Thanks again
Lior, SHARONA, A54 #18


Re: Opacmare - replacing sensor

tony wells
 

In my experience, sometimes the sensors fail to work because they’ve become too far apart - insert a thin knife blade, for example, between them and test the function. 

Hope helps someone someday, if not you Vladan. 

Tony Wells
Previous A54 Owner 

On 27 Sep 2021, at 18:20, Vladan SV PAME <vladan.bojic@...> wrote:

Hi group,

I need to replace on of two sensors that control up and down position of pasarella. I managed to unscrew it from the bracket.

Does anyone know where sensor cable ends? As far as I can see cable goes under wooden board of rotating part. Do I need to take off that piece of wood and how to do it?

Thanks in advance.

Best Regards,
--
Vladan

A54 #157
SV PAME


Re: Opacmare - replacing sensor

Lior Keydar
 

dear vladan

i replaced those sensors several times. i have an earlier model but maybe it is the same.
you have to move the round cover around the sensors. then, there are two part with two small screws. 
the first part you can take out while the gangway is in close position ,and the second part when the gangway is turned to the left. there is also a screw to open at the top of the second cover.
now you can easily replace the sensors.

i hope it helps

best
lior, SHARONA, A54 #18


Main Outhaul gearbox ware to buy

Peter Attinge
 

Hello
We have just bout a SM2K red line #451

The Main Outhaul gearbox is stuck. ware can i buy a new one and whats the approximately price.

The broker told me the jib gearbox was stuck, but its work great.

Thanks
//Peter #451

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