Date   

Re: What to do with LiFePO4 batteries when the boat is layed up?

Dean Gillies
 

Hi Matt,
Out of interest, may I ask how you determined the initial SOC when you received the batteries?  Did you estimate SOC from a voltage measurement, or does the 'small Victron charger' you mention provide data to indicate how much capacity needed to be added to attain a full charge, or maybe the Victron BMS provides that data? (ie you added 52% by charging therefore they must have been at 48% when you started)
Best regards
Dean
SV Stella
Amel 54-154



Re: Fresh Water Leak At Aft Head

Alan Leslie
 

Hi Kent,
I think the answer is here....
" There has never been water found in the bilge until a boisterous sail last night, tacking into a 20kt wind. Found at least  10-12 liters there.  It's only barely salty to taste."
I had exactly this scenario on the way to Tahiti some years ago.
Water sloshing around in the space under the aft head.
I tried and almost convinced myself that it wasn't salty, but it was......
Where did it come from? The seals on the rudder shaft.
We were on starboard tack in big seas for quite a while and the water pressure from the pounding forced water up past those compressed rings. It then worked its way along the port side under the aft bunk and went to the lowest point under the aft head.
Tightened up the nut and that stopped it temporarily.
Permanent fix was to replace the shaft sealing.
All the best
Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: Height of the SM Mizzen Mast

 

43’4” - Mizzen mast length from the deck to top of the mast.

image.png


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar

On Fri, Oct 1, 2021 at 9:30 AM Richie Whyte <richiewhyte@...> wrote:
Gentlefolk,
A quick question for anyone who has done this recently. I am ordering a new AIS and need to tell the supplier how much VHF cable I’ll need. I’m presuming the black box AIS will be mounted in the Nav Station area. I can measure the circuitous route to the bottom of the mast (in the aft head panel beside the mirror) but I can’t get a figure for the height of the mizzen mast of the Super Maramu anywhere. Anyone got any ideas?

Richie

Richie Whyte
‘Why Knot’, SM2K#261
Kos Marina,
Kos Greece


Hi Gary--- Companionway Door Seal - New Photos Album & Photos

eric freedman <kimberlite@...>
 

Would you please send me the photos of this modification to:  kimberlite@....

Fair Winds

ERIC

Kimberlite@...

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of eric freedman
Sent: Sunday, April 7, 2019 8:40 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Companionway Door Seal - New Photos Album & Photos

 

Hi Gary,

Nice Job,

Where do I get the aircraft silicone rubber in the USA?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Gary Silver via Groups.Io
Sent: Tuesday, March 12, 2019 12:18 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Companionway Door Seal - New Photos Album & Photos

 

Hi all:  
I just posted a series of photographs showing the replacement of my companionway door seal.  I did this about 4 years ago.  I have owned the boat since new and the original Amel seal began failing at about year 10 and by year 13 demanded attention.  I was un-successful in obtaining original Amel material (no longer available).  I couldn't find anything in the automotive industry that I found suitable, so I fabricated my own.  I am an aircraft mechanic and almost daily utilize red silicone sheet rubber for engine baffling.  It is very durable and doesn't deform with fuel, oil, heat etc.  It has held up well for the last 4 years.  I fabricated from teak an obtuse triangular shim to hold the silicone seal material in place against the door in a squeegee like fashion.  The photos are in the album entitled:
"Modifications - Companionway Door Seal".  I'll try and post a dimensional drawing of the shim and a source for the seal material soon. 

Hope this may of be of use to some. 

Gary S Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000  #335
Puerto Del Rey Marina,  Puerto Rico


Height of the SM Mizzen Mast

Richie Whyte
 

Gentlefolk,
A quick question for anyone who has done this recently. I am ordering a new AIS and need to tell the supplier how much VHF cable I’ll need. I’m presuming the black box AIS will be mounted in the Nav Station area. I can measure the circuitous route to the bottom of the mast (in the aft head panel beside the mirror) but I can’t get a figure for the height of the mizzen mast of the Super Maramu anywhere. Anyone got any ideas?

Richie

Richie Whyte
‘Why Knot’, SM2K#261
Kos Marina,
Kos Greece


Re: SM Skeg

Andrew & Kate Lamb
 

Hi Stefan

 

Many thanks that is very helpful. Sounds like greasing that might actually be harmful.

 

Andrew

 

Ronpische

SM #472

Canet-en-roussillon

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Stefan Jeukendrup via groups.io
Sent: 01 October 2021 12:42
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] SM Skeg

 

Hi Andrew,

I had to remove the rudder in the past weeks for a succesfull repair.
From what I saw the nylon bushing is just water lubricated. Those 2 screws  on the side hold the bushing in place.
Olaf Bauer made a description of the rudder removal which may help you too: https://amelyachtowners.groups.io/g/main/files/AMEL%20SM2K%20Rudder%20Removal/Rudder%20removal%20at%20a%20AMEL%20Super%20Maramu%202000.pdf

Best regards,

Stefan Jeukendrup
sv malaka Queen
SM2k #348 @ Northern Ireland


Re: SM Skeg

Stefan Jeukendrup
 

Hi Andrew,

I had to remove the rudder in the past weeks for a succesfull repair.
From what I saw the nylon bushing is just water lubricated. Those 2 screws  on the side hold the bushing in place.
Olaf Bauer made a description of the rudder removal which may help you too: https://amelyachtowners.groups.io/g/main/files/AMEL%20SM2K%20Rudder%20Removal/Rudder%20removal%20at%20a%20AMEL%20Super%20Maramu%202000.pdf

Best regards,

Stefan Jeukendrup
sv malaka Queen
SM2k #348 @ Northern Ireland


Re: Opacmare - replacing sensor

Arno Luijten
 

Hi Paul,

Fair question. 

Actually I have been considering to enhance the system using an Arduino controller or similar. But builing something like that and also making it reliable takes time and I had other priorities. 

The passerelle has several flaws, not only the electronics. 

I don’t think the sensors themselves are bad design. The connectors and wireing is more of a problem. 

The current control system is crude but does the job. If improvements are made it would be in adding sensors and automate the closure/opening sequence a bit more. 

In the end it would add a fairly limited amount of functionality. For me it would be more a challenge to do so then a solution to a problem. So maybe I will take it on at some point but not now. 

The main problem with the thing is the ingress of salt water in the rotational actuator. I had to replace mine at 6k$ cost. Protecting it totally from seawater is not so easy. 


Kind regards,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121


Re: SM & A54 Main + Mizzen manual furling gear boxes - seals, o-rings, dust cover … + source(s) ???

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Vladan, I did give the dimensions of one seal at 60x45x7. However I did say that was from memory. I will check in the next days and let you know.

Kind Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

On 01 October 2021 at 01:56 Vladan SV PAME <vladan.bojic@...> wrote:

Bill,

the extra seal number 5 is 45 x 58 x 7 

It’s difficult to check size of the motor seal without taking off motor. For sure shaft coming out of motor is 45 mm so it can be.

Also as I see Danny is mentioning slightly different size of seal so could it be that not all manual furlers installed through production line were same?

Best Regards,
--
Vladan

A54 #157
SV PAME


Re: What to do with LiFePO4 batteries when the boat is layed up?

Matt & Michelle
 

For what it is worth....

Michelle and I just received our shipment of Victron 200Ah LiFePO4 batteries.  I measured all six of our batteries as received, and they are at an identical 48.2% SOC.  I purchased the batteries from PKYS (shipped direct from Victron).  Peter Kennedy (great technical guy to work with) ensured I purchased a small Victron battery charger to fully charge each battery individually prior to install.

To Scott's point, Victron is not going to have inventory age and expire in storage as an ongoing money making enterprise, and the SOC matches what all those boring peer reviewed studies say.  Just another data point worth considering.

If anyone is considering doing a LiFePO4 conversion, I would strongly recommend you read Scott's write-up, Bill Kinney's post, and then the peer reviewed papers.  The lithium conversion world is the wild west right now, with multiple companies selling silly "drop-in" full conversion batteries.  You are ultimately changing the power distribution architecture of your boat which has significant life safety risk.  Finding the right experienced technical resources has been challenging for us.  One can easily see why insurance companies are nervous, and I suspect redneck engineered conversions will be a fun new topic of new used boat sales in the near future.   

Matt & Michelle Day
SM#209
SV Talia
Hampton, VA


Re: Opacmare - replacing sensor

Paul Harries
 

Arno
You are such an intelligent guy I wonder as to whether you have considered re engineering this marvel of Italian engineering into a more reliable solution. Would a different position sensor technology work? From what you say the central control unit is fairly simple.

--
Paul Harries
Prospective Amel Buyer


Re: Converting my Amel 54 to lithium batteries: what I did, what I like and what I don't like (after one year of full time live aboard use)

Lior Keydar
 

Ruedi

I forward you the solution that Robin from SV Carré d’As sent me. He had the same problem and me too. It is actually very easy. 

Best,
Lior

"We found the solution:

 

 

find the cable that comes from the pump in the 230V Tableau in the galley and connect it to the side where there is always power - secure it with a 5 amp fuse and you are done!

 

fair winds

 

Robin"


Re: SM & A54 Main + Mizzen manual furling gear boxes - seals, o-rings, dust cover … + source(s) ???

Vladan SV PAME
 

Bill,

the extra seal number 5 is 45 x 58 x 7 

It’s difficult to check size of the motor seal without taking off motor. For sure shaft coming out of motor is 45 mm so it can be.

Also as I see Danny is mentioning slightly different size of seal so could it be that not all manual furlers installed through production line were same?

Best Regards,
--
Vladan

A54 #157
SV PAME


Re: SM & A54 Main + Mizzen manual furling gear boxes - seals, o-rings, dust cover … + source(s) ???

Vladan SV PAME
 

Hi Stefan,

I’m attaching again photo. Highlighted green are description and dimensions.

however here they are:
1. Joint V-ring VA45
2. Joint OR Fi 94 x 2
3. Bague d’etancheite 25 x 33 x 6
4. Bague d’etancheite 30 x 40 x 7 AS
5. Bague d’etancheite 45 x 58 x 7
6. Joint OR Fi 62 x 1,5

Hope this helps.

Best Regards,
--
Vladan

A54 #157
SV PAME


Re: Opacmare - replacing sensor

Scott SV Tengah
 

Arno,

This is exactly what I was looking for. Thank you.

-Scott

On Sep 30, 2021, at 11:43 AM, Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote:

Hi Scott,

The brain of this thing is fairly rudimentary so not too likely to fail unless water has entered the enclosure or the connectors.
The way they routed the sensor cables is not the best leaving the connectors in a place where seawater easily gets.
So your first step is checking the wires and other parts for corrosion and water ingress.
As you may have noticed the sensors have a light build in that lights up when the sensor senses metal.
There are four sensors in total. Two are used to sense the height of the passerelle and the middle (level) position. They are prone to mis-adjustment because of the way they are mounted on metal brackets. The logic is that both must be actuated at the level-position of the gangway. So there is a very small area of possible positions for which both are actuated. This can give you problems if the cylinders are not working properly.
The way it works is that the pump pushes oil that gets routed by the electromagnetic valves. Behind these valves there are adjustable restrictors that limit the oil-flow to the cylinders. These restrictors need to be adjusted in such a way that the up-down speed is not too high for the system to stop the motion at the point where both sensors are actuated. In my case I had problems with the seals inside the cylinders that made this into a total hell and it took us moths of trial and error to realize the cylinders needed to be overhauled.
Reading what you are saying, my guess is that the brain is getting information that both up-down sensors are active all the time and the rotation sensor is also active all the time.
On the brainbox there are LEDs that will tell you which sensors are actuated according to the brainbox. From memory they are marked X,Y,W and V. When the passerelle is tucked away only one of them should be dim and three should light up. The dim one is the rotational sensor that only lights up if the passerelle is at an angle of 80-100 degrees with the stern. Only at that point the up-down and extend functions will operate. 
So if your rotational sensor is active all the time you can really crash your passerelle into the GRP slot. The lights on the brainbox can really help you identifying the problem. As said before the connectors and brainbox enclosure are suspect for creating false signals. Compare the signal light at the back of the sensors with the lights in the brainbox.

Hope this helps,

Arno Luijten,
SV Luna,
A54-121


--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Re: Opacmare - replacing sensor

Arno Luijten
 

Hi Scott,

The brain of this thing is fairly rudimentary so not too likely to fail unless water has entered the enclosure or the connectors.
The way they routed the sensor cables is not the best leaving the connectors in a place where seawater easily gets.
So your first step is checking the wires and other parts for corrosion and water ingress.
As you may have noticed the sensors have a light build in that lights up when the sensor senses metal.
There are four sensors in total. Two are used to sense the height of the passerelle and the middle (level) position. They are prone to mis-adjustment because of the way they are mounted on metal brackets. The logic is that both must be actuated at the level-position of the gangway. So there is a very small area of possible positions for which both are actuated. This can give you problems if the cylinders are not working properly.
The way it works is that the pump pushes oil that gets routed by the electromagnetic valves. Behind these valves there are adjustable restrictors that limit the oil-flow to the cylinders. These restrictors need to be adjusted in such a way that the up-down speed is not too high for the system to stop the motion at the point where both sensors are actuated. In my case I had problems with the seals inside the cylinders that made this into a total hell and it took us moths of trial and error to realize the cylinders needed to be overhauled.
Reading what you are saying, my guess is that the brain is getting information that both up-down sensors are active all the time and the rotation sensor is also active all the time.
On the brainbox there are LEDs that will tell you which sensors are actuated according to the brainbox. From memory they are marked X,Y,W and V. When the passerelle is tucked away only one of them should be dim and three should light up. The dim one is the rotational sensor that only lights up if the passerelle is at an angle of 80-100 degrees with the stern. Only at that point the up-down and extend functions will operate. 
So if your rotational sensor is active all the time you can really crash your passerelle into the GRP slot. The lights on the brainbox can really help you identifying the problem. As said before the connectors and brainbox enclosure are suspect for creating false signals. Compare the signal light at the back of the sensors with the lights in the brainbox.

Hope this helps,

Arno Luijten,
SV Luna,
A54-121


Re: SM & A54 Main + Mizzen manual furling gear boxes - seals, o-rings, dust cover … + source(s) ???

Stefan Schaufert
 

Thank you Bill and Danny.
That helps.

Dear Vladan,
thx a lot. 
Unfortunately the photo is not readable (list of seals). Thus I appreciate a better resolution. Thanks for that.

I found 2 good sources of supply (in Germany/ for Europe):

https://www.kugellager-express.de/va-und-wellendichtringe (v-rings, oil seals)
https://www.hug-technik.com/shop/O-RINGE/  and https://www.hug-technik.com/shop/Simmerring/ (o-rings, oil seals)

Best regards
Stefan
A54 #119 Lady Charlyette, currently La Palma - Canaries


Re: Converting my Amel 54 to lithium batteries: what I did, what I like and what I don't like (after one year of full time live aboard use)

Scott SV Tengah
 

Reudi,

My AC pump works on inverter just fine. We got rid of the Amel transfer switch when we upgraded to the Victron Quattro which has it's own "smart" transfer switch that can limit input current and also use the inverter to supplement draws above this limit current.

Carre D'As had a problem with his AC pump not working on inverter - you should ask if he's resolved it. He has the Multiplus, which doesn't have the internal transfer switch so relies on the Amel switch.

If I had to guess based on the fact that it works fine for me and it doesn't work with Carre D'As, the AC pump is probably wired to the Amel switch? A proper electrician should surely be able to figure it out in 15 minutes.


--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Re: Opacmare - replacing sensor

Scott SV Tengah
 

Arno,

Like you, I have spent lots of money making this thing work. I have sort of given up after spending around half of what you spent. It sounds like you were more determined that I was!

Now it's working 90% correct but I have a very odd problem. Earlier, when the sensors didn't work, the passerelle wouldn't operate in the direction that is sensed by the faulty sensor. I presume this was a safety measure.

Currently, the problem is that it will NOT automatically retract and lower itself to fit into the fiberglass slot in the stern if I try to use the rotate button to bring the passerelle into the boat.

In other words, when I'm about to leave the marina and the passerelle is fully extended and tilted a bit higher than parallel with the water, the passerelle will happily rotate towards the boat even though it clearly would not fit into the fiberglass slot in the stern in the extended/raised position! I need to retract it manually and lower it to match the slot manually.

As a corollary, if it's safely tucked into the fiberglass slot in the stern, it will happily extend or tilt vertically, even though that would obviously damage the slot. I was just about to give up and disconnect power to it for safety reasons, but perhaps since you've become an expert at this damn thing, you could suggest a solution? I've spent enough on sensors, I'd rather not try to source some more if the problem is elsewhere.

Thanks!
--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Re: What to do with LiFePO4 batteries when the boat is layed up?

Scott SV Tengah
 

Joerg,

My understanding of the ideal SOC for storage is based on two things:

(1) I read the objective, peer reviewed research literature which all seem to point towards longer life at around 40-60% SOC for long term storage (hey, passages can be long and boring!)
(2) My conversation with a senior Victron tech to clarify whether they suggest the same.

What was explained to me "off the record" is that the research literature is correct that 40-60% maximizes lifepo4 life. But a manufacturer's primary goal is to minimize customer complaints and concerns and a secondary goal is to maximize longevity. And he jokingly said "and if batteries last forever, we'd go out of business".

Charging to 80% is the foolproof way to go, for sure as it reduces the likelihood of low voltage battery death in the off chance that the charger/power source is cut off. The cost of this is reduced longevity.

I opted to follow the objective research. Time will tell whether that research is correct.


--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com

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