Date   

Re: FA50 Silent mode on A54?

Porter McRoberts
 

Oh well!

Off to Australia this am. 
Trying to get to Coffs Harbour where we may or may not have to do quarantine. 
Brisbane is a certainty. 

Ahh the joys of dealing with bureaucracy in Covid times!  

Hope your well Bill!  

Cheers

Porter and crew
 


On Oct 31, 2021, at 6:51 AM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:


Of course! 🙁


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar

On Sat, Oct 30, 2021 at 9:06 AM Chris Likins <likinsca@...> wrote:
Hi all,

Furuno tells me I have an older FA50 which is not capable of silent mode. Their solution? Buy a new one... 😅


Re: Cooling Super Maramu Refrigeration Units

Michael & Robyn
 

Hi Paul,

we replaced all fans of our frigoboat fridges with:
epm-pabst fans 4412FGL: DC Fan, 12V, 120x120x25mm, 55.3CFM, 1.3W, 26dBA, Wire Leads
and added screens epm-pabst LZ60  to prevent the dust get into the fan itself, because that is what killed our pantry fridge fan.
We bought em here:
https://www.alliedelec.com/product/ebm-papst/4412fgl/70105044/?keyword=70105044
https://www.alliedelec.com/product/ebm-papst/lz60/70105471/?keyword=70105471
be careful which way you mount the screen to the fan so the blades don't scrape (ask me why I know...).
These fans are so much quieter and provide at least the same amount of airflow.

We choose to blow air outwards of the cabinets in the hopes that there is less dust coming from the bilge area.
If you would choose to blow air towards the condenser it would be easier to clean the dust off the screens with a vacuum occasionally.  If I would have to redo the fridges I would go for it.
I agree with Bill K. that the direction doesn't really matter much from an air temperature perspective. The dirt on the condenser fins is the bigger issue.

kind regards
--
Michael & Robyn

SY RIPPLE SM2K # 417
currently BLM Brunswick GA


Re: FA50 Silent mode on A54?

 

Of course! 🙁


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar

On Sat, Oct 30, 2021 at 9:06 AM Chris Likins <likinsca@...> wrote:
Hi all,

Furuno tells me I have an older FA50 which is not capable of silent mode. Their solution? Buy a new one... 😅


Re: Volvo RPM issue

 

Doug,

Maybe this helps and maybe it will make sense to those Amel owners who have not experienced vacuum controls on a diesel engine. On older diesel engines for boats, there was no vacuum. The D3 might have been the game-changer for this.  Full Disclosure: The reason I know a little about this is that I own a 1985 MBZ diesel which has 2 electric vacuum pumps and one mechanical vacuum pump. I believe the only way to get vacuum on most diesel engines is to "pump it" with a pump, electric or mechanical.

I think this is what Mark is referring to and how to check it. Unlike most diesel engines prior to the D3, the D3 has vacuum-operated systems. You'll need a hand vacuum pump with a gauge that you can buy online from auto parts suppliers. I doubt the mechanical vacuum pump is defective, but trace that vacuum line looking for loose connections, cracks, or breaks.
image.png


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar

On Sat, Oct 30, 2021 at 10:26 AM Mark & Debbie Mueller <brass.ring@...> wrote:

Hi Doug,

Checking wide-open throttle at the dock may not necessarily reflect what you see underway.  The vacuum pressure in the engine is usually dramatically different under full load conditions versus no load.

There is a vacuum operated device on the turbo I have always heard called a waste gate, Volvo calls it a turbo actuator.  This device is a valve that controls the flow of exhaust gases to the turbine wheel.  If the vacuum pressure is not correct the turbo will never develop full boost pressure.  I am not sure of the D3 spec on vacuum but it might be worthwhile to try and measure it if the following does not work.  You may have a vacuum leak somewhere in the system. 

Take a look at the OEM Fault Codes shown on the Volvo multifunction display; see the attached PDF on how to retrieve those fault codes to see if any refer to the turbo.  Next, take a look at the Volvo service bulletin regarding the turbo actuator – be sure to click on the “Comments” at the top of your PDF reader for additional information.  It does take a little bit of effort to push the linkage causing the vacuum actuator and wastegate to operate manually.

Forgot the attachments in the earlier message.

Good luck!!


--
Mark Mueller
Brass Ring  A54


Re: Volvo RPM issue

 

Ian & Doug,

Ian is absolutely correct. An AutoProp will not bite the water when tied up at the dock, versus going forward.

Bill


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar

On Sat, Oct 30, 2021 at 9:17 AM ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@...> <ianjudyjenkins@...> wrote:
Hi Doug,

 Just a comment on running your engine at the dock---if you have an Autoprop it will not load up  properly when the boat is tied to a dock as there is not the flow of water that you get when the boat is moving. Because of that, it's not difficult to get to full revs at a dock.
 That can be a problem if you run aground. I don't think you get the full power out of an Autoprop when stationary. Just avoid those sand banks  ( as we didn't once in the USVIs ....)

 Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Kilada, Greece

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Mark & Debbie Mueller <brass.ring@...>
Sent: 30 October 2021 13:44
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Volvo RPM issue
 

[Edited Message Follows]

Hi Doug,

Checking wide-open throttle at the dock may not necessarily reflect what you see underway.  The vacuum pressure in the engine is usually dramatically different under full load conditions versus no load.

There is a vacuum operated device on the turbo I have always heard called a waste gate, Volvo calls it a turbo actuator.  This device is a valve that controls the flow of exhaust gases to the turbine wheel.  If the vacuum pressure is not correct the turbo will never develop full boost pressure.  I am not sure of the D3 spec on vacuum but it might be worthwhile to try and measure it if the following does not work.  You may have a vacuum leak somewhere in the system. 

Take a look at the OEM Fault Codes shown on the Volvo multifunction display; see the attached PDF on how to retrieve those fault codes to see if any refer to the turbo.  Next, take a look at the Volvo service bulletin regarding the turbo actuator – be sure to click on the “Comments” at the top of your PDF reader for additional information.  It does take a little bit of effort to push the linkage causing the vacuum actuator and wastegate to operate manually.

Good luck!!

--
Mark Mueller
Brass Ring  A54


Re: Bow Thruster Travel Sensors H, B, and SP

Paul Harries
 


Re: Volvo RPM issue

Mohammad Shirloo
 

Hi Doug;

 

We dealt with a check engine error message last season that was related to the turbo boost pressure, so I did spend some time reading up on the function of the Variable Geometry turbo (VGT)  that is installed on the D3-110IC.

 

The VGT basically adjusts the physical size of the inlet of the turbo based on the amount of exhaust pressure available to produce the maximum consistent boost, so that there is wider range of power available and to minimize the peaky boost that some turbos produce. If you do not get the proper boost pressure from the turbo, the engine will not reach maximum RPMs. Since the turbo was just rebuilt and assuming the work was done correctly, and the fact that you are not getting a check engine error, you should be seeing boost pressures that match the RPMS.

 

On ours the Boost VS RPM is as follows:

 

RPM                                      Boost (kpa)

 

1600                                       20

1700                                       20

1800                                       30

1900                                       40

2000                                       50

 

This is in gear and not at idle. How much boost pressure are you seeing at these RPMs?

 

Happy Sailing;

 

 

Mohammad and Aty

B&B Kokomo

AMEL 54 #099

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Doug Smith via groups.io
Sent: Friday, October 29, 2021 7:44 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Volvo RPM issue

 

Question for the group.

I have seen many messages from a few of you with the Volvo D3-110, where you have worked on or around the turbo. I have read through most that I could find and spoken to a couple of you to try to figure out our issue.

I have a Volvo D3-110-I C, and it has around 2000 hours on it.  I purchased it 24 months ago, and on survey it would run up to 3000 RPM’s. After running it on a longer passage, of 5 days, at 1500 RPM, I haven’t been able to get up to 3000 RPM’s again. When moving the throttle forward, the engine will climb to about 1500-1600 and slowly over the course of 2-3 seconds continue climbing up to 2070.  No more. At the dock and in neutral, it will easily climb to 3000, without hesitancy and the engine is responsive to the throttle appropriately.  I lubricated the external turbo actuator, but it didn’t change the hesitancy or the top RPM and it moves freely.

Next, I did the seasonal haulout, and the bottom was cleaned and the prop was shiny again. All blades of the autoprop were free to rotate.

The first day back in the water, I could get to 3000, and I figured my problem was solved.  But literally the next week, I was unable to get back to 3000.  Same exact sense at the throttle, and same top RPM of 2070.

So I had the turbo rebuilt.  In speaking with Mark McGovern, he was confident that a good cleaning would likely be needed after the prolonged running at 1500.  Rebuilding a turbo, seemed too precise a job, so I had it professionally done, and the guy who did it felt there was some carbon build up, and after replacing the internal bearings, assured me this one would run like new. After reinstalling it, no change. At all. 2070.  Same hesitancy at the throttle.

So then I came across those threads speaking of the Turbo boost pressure sensor, Bosch 31355463.  Certainly, that must be it.  No change after installing it.

The engine starts easily, runs at a good temperature, and seems to perform well at the lower RPM’s. 1500 is the sweet spot. Runs fine up to 1800-1900. The transmission has a new filter and new fluid.  The C-drive Wear bushing, seals and fluid have all been recently changed. I double checked the tightness of the exhaust manifold, and the mixing elbow is clear.
Air filter intake is clean and the filter is new. And no error codes on the dash display.
Running out of ideas here, and hoping someone out there has some experience with this type of problem. I would happily bring a Volvo mechanic on board, to solve this, but have heard so many experiences from the group that suggests this might not be easily fixed by them.

 

Thank you for any of your thoughts on this.

 

Doug Smith

S/V Aventura, Amel 54-113

White Point Marina, Kinsale VA USA


Re: Volvo RPM issue

Mark & Debbie Mueller
 

Hi Doug,

Checking wide-open throttle at the dock may not necessarily reflect what you see underway.  The vacuum pressure in the engine is usually dramatically different under full load conditions versus no load.

There is a vacuum operated device on the turbo I have always heard called a waste gate, Volvo calls it a turbo actuator.  This device is a valve that controls the flow of exhaust gases to the turbine wheel.  If the vacuum pressure is not correct the turbo will never develop full boost pressure.  I am not sure of the D3 spec on vacuum but it might be worthwhile to try and measure it if the following does not work.  You may have a vacuum leak somewhere in the system. 

Take a look at the OEM Fault Codes shown on the Volvo multifunction display; see the attached PDF on how to retrieve those fault codes to see if any refer to the turbo.  Next, take a look at the Volvo service bulletin regarding the turbo actuator – be sure to click on the “Comments” at the top of your PDF reader for additional information.  It does take a little bit of effort to push the linkage causing the vacuum actuator and wastegate to operate manually.

Forgot the attachments in the earlier message.

Good luck!!


--
Mark Mueller
Brass Ring  A54


Re: Volvo RPM issue

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Hi Doug,

 Just a comment on running your engine at the dock---if you have an Autoprop it will not load up  properly when the boat is tied to a dock as there is not the flow of water that you get when the boat is moving. Because of that, it's not difficult to get to full revs at a dock.
 That can be a problem if you run aground. I don't think you get the full power out of an Autoprop when stationary. Just avoid those sand banks  ( as we didn't once in the USVIs ....)

 Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Kilada, Greece


From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Mark & Debbie Mueller <brass.ring@...>
Sent: 30 October 2021 13:44
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Volvo RPM issue
 

[Edited Message Follows]

Hi Doug,

Checking wide-open throttle at the dock may not necessarily reflect what you see underway.  The vacuum pressure in the engine is usually dramatically different under full load conditions versus no load.

There is a vacuum operated device on the turbo I have always heard called a waste gate, Volvo calls it a turbo actuator.  This device is a valve that controls the flow of exhaust gases to the turbine wheel.  If the vacuum pressure is not correct the turbo will never develop full boost pressure.  I am not sure of the D3 spec on vacuum but it might be worthwhile to try and measure it if the following does not work.  You may have a vacuum leak somewhere in the system. 

Take a look at the OEM Fault Codes shown on the Volvo multifunction display; see the attached PDF on how to retrieve those fault codes to see if any refer to the turbo.  Next, take a look at the Volvo service bulletin regarding the turbo actuator – be sure to click on the “Comments” at the top of your PDF reader for additional information.  It does take a little bit of effort to push the linkage causing the vacuum actuator and wastegate to operate manually.

Good luck!!

--
Mark Mueller
Brass Ring  A54


Re: FA50 Silent mode on A54?

Chris Likins
 

Hi all,

Furuno tells me I have an older FA50 which is not capable of silent mode. Their solution? Buy a new one... 😅


Re: Volvo RPM issue

 

Doug,

All I can add is that in your situation it is almost always the autoprop.

One barnacle on one blade at just the right spot can cause that single blade to dig deeper in the water. Also, I am sure that you are aware of the AutoProp bearing replacement intervals of 800 hours. I have seen others replace the bearings between 800 and 1200 without an issue. You didn't mention the bearings and I am betting the previous owner never replaced them. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse 
Amel Owners Yacht School
+1 832-380-4970 | brouse@...
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com 
Yacht School Calendar: www.preparetocastoff.blogspot.com/p/calendar.html


   

On Sat, Oct 30, 2021, 7:15 AM Doug Smith via groups.io <dugsmith98=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Thanks Bill and Martin. 
Yes, the auto prop was moving nicely when we hauled out and I had lubricated it and cleaned it externally prior to launch. I think it is good. 
As for a laser tach, no, I haven’t done that, since the sounds and speed match the engine tach. I can hear the engine as it speeds up to that level and the boat hits 7 knots  on flat water at 1650 rpms. 1250, 6 knots, and at about 1400, 6.7-6.8.
No sound of any thing irregular at those rpms. 

Thanks, Doug Smith

Amel 54-113, Aventura
White Point Marina
Kinsale VA, USA

On Oct 29, 2021, at 11:11 PM, Bill Kinney <cruisingconsulting@...> wrote:

Doug,

This is a tough one... Your run through of the testing you have done so far is good. I don't have any quick and easy answers based on specific experience, but a couple of questions:

Have you checked the accuracy of the dashboard tach with a separate measurement?  Maybe a laser tach on the flywheel?

Does the boat speed reflect the lower RPM's you see? In other words, does the boat run at the speed you expect at 2070 RPM?  Or is it faster, like you used to get at full throttle?

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA (heading south in 24 to 48 hours...)


Re: Cooling Super Maramu Refrigeration Units

Jose Venegas
 

Paul,
The proper way is to blow air into the condenser. Not only it improves the heat transfer by blowing cooler air into the condenser but , more importantly, it filters the air before it is blown into it
José
Ipanema SM2k 278
Red frog Panama

Enviado desde mi iPhone


Re: Volvo RPM issue

karkauai
 

Hi Doug,
I had exactly the same problem with my TMD 78 HP. But it never got up to 3Krpm, unlike yours.  I spent thousands trying to figure it out.  Brunton (AutoProp) told me that my H6 was the correct prop for a SM with 100HP Yanmar.  Likewise King Propulsion, prop shop extrodinaire in Norfolk area said my fixed prop was over pitched.  Since the prop blades spun freely, I ignored advice on this forum to service it...bad move...

Here are a couple other things to look at:

Look at the exhaust elbow to make sure it isn't clogged with carbon.  If that's ok, service the AutoProp...even if the blades turn freely.

Have you looked at fuel lines and changed fuel filters? A kink, blockage, or stopped up filter could be your problem.

I'm betting it will be solved by servicing the AutoProp if you don't find an exhaust or fuel restriction.  Contact Rod at King Propulsion if you need help.  Great guy, very knowledgeable.
+1 757-962-9219 office.
+1 757-739-2050 mobile.

--
Kent & Iris
KRISTY
SM243


Re: Volvo RPM issue

Doug Smith
 

Thanks Bill and Martin. 
Yes, the auto prop was moving nicely when we hauled out and I had lubricated it and cleaned it externally prior to launch. I think it is good. 
As for a laser tach, no, I haven’t done that, since the sounds and speed match the engine tach. I can hear the engine as it speeds up to that level and the boat hits 7 knots  on flat water at 1650 rpms. 1250, 6 knots, and at about 1400, 6.7-6.8.
No sound of any thing irregular at those rpms. 

Thanks, Doug Smith

Amel 54-113, Aventura
White Point Marina
Kinsale VA, USA
Dugsmith98@...

On Oct 29, 2021, at 11:11 PM, Bill Kinney <cruisingconsulting@...> wrote:

Doug,

This is a tough one... Your run through of the testing you have done so far is good. I don't have any quick and easy answers based on specific experience, but a couple of questions:

Have you checked the accuracy of the dashboard tach with a separate measurement?  Maybe a laser tach on the flywheel?

Does the boat speed reflect the lower RPM's you see? In other words, does the boat run at the speed you expect at 2070 RPM?  Or is it faster, like you used to get at full throttle?

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA (heading south in 24 to 48 hours...)


Re: Jib car track plugs -- how many?

Mike Ondra
 

We did the white silicone on Aletes as well. Due to silicone’s shrinkage, we found it necessary to overfill with a good crown to the surface of the silicone. Then, after curing, slice it off flush with a razor.

Mike

Former custodian of Aletes SM240


Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails.

Explore. Dream. Discover.

- Mark Twain

On Oct 29, 2021, at 11:20 PM, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...> wrote:



Hi Eric, there are two sizes. You need to specify. I got them and they are excellent.

Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

On 30 October 2021 at 10:17 Eric Freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:

When I received plugs from Amel years ago they were too long and too wide to fit the hole. I would specify the dimensions to Maud before ordering.

Please let us know what she stocks.

 

Olivier suggested just covering the holes with silicone. It works great for me.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io On Behalf Of CW Bill Rouse
Sent: Friday, October 29, 2021 12:16 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Jib car track plugs -- how many?

 

Over 90 and less than 100. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse 
Amel Owners Yacht School
+1 832-380-4970 | brouse@...
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com 
Yacht School Calendar: www.preparetocastoff.blogspot.com/p/calendar.html


   

 

On Fri, Oct 29, 2021, 10:56 AM Rick Stanley <rstanley907@...> wrote:

Hey folks I'm not at my boat right now. Could someone let me know how many jib car track plugs I'll need to replace them all, both port and starboard? I'd guess around  50-60 but not sure.

Thanks,

Rick
S/V Althea SM2K #317
Rock Hall MD

 



 


 


Re: Volvo RPM issue

luvkante
 

Could be a problem of your AUTOPROP. Did you check it?

Martin
AMEL54, #149 CHIARA

Von meinem iPad gesendet

Am 30.10.2021 um 05:11 schrieb Bill Kinney <cruisingconsulting@...>:

Doug,

This is a tough one... Your run through of the testing you have done so far is good. I don't have any quick and easy answers based on specific experience, but a couple of questions:

Have you checked the accuracy of the dashboard tach with a separate measurement?  Maybe a laser tach on the flywheel?

Does the boat speed reflect the lower RPM's you see? In other words, does the boat run at the speed you expect at 2070 RPM?  Or is it faster, like you used to get at full throttle?

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA (heading south in 24 to 48 hours...)


Re: Jib car track plugs -- how many?

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Eric, there are two sizes. You need to specify. I got them and they are excellent.

Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

On 30 October 2021 at 10:17 Eric Freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:

When I received plugs from Amel years ago they were too long and too wide to fit the hole. I would specify the dimensions to Maud before ordering.

Please let us know what she stocks.

 

Olivier suggested just covering the holes with silicone. It works great for me.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io On Behalf Of CW Bill Rouse
Sent: Friday, October 29, 2021 12:16 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Jib car track plugs -- how many?

 

Over 90 and less than 100. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse 
Amel Owners Yacht School
+1 832-380-4970 | brouse@...
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com 
Yacht School Calendar: www.preparetocastoff.blogspot.com/p/calendar.html


   

 

On Fri, Oct 29, 2021, 10:56 AM Rick Stanley <rstanley907@...> wrote:

Hey folks I'm not at my boat right now. Could someone let me know how many jib car track plugs I'll need to replace them all, both port and starboard? I'd guess around  50-60 but not sure.

Thanks,

Rick
S/V Althea SM2K #317
Rock Hall MD

 



 


 


Re: Jib car track plugs -- how many?

Bill Kinney
 

A second vote for silicone.  We ordered the polyethylene plugs from Amel early on in our ownership.  They only good thing about them is that they were cheap.  They lasted less than a year in the tropics before crumbling to uselessness. A very poor solution.  We filled them with gray GE SCS2002 silicone 5 years ago.  They are still 100% perfect.  This is a neutral cure silicone, and totally compatible with the aluminum track.

If we ever NEED to pull out these bolts, removing the silicone plugs would be a time consuming chore, but certainly not impossible.  In the meantime, the silicone plugs are a very satisfactory esthetic AND functional solution.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA (heading south in 24 to 48 hours)


Re: Volvo RPM issue

Bill Kinney
 

Doug,

This is a tough one... Your run through of the testing you have done so far is good. I don't have any quick and easy answers based on specific experience, but a couple of questions:

Have you checked the accuracy of the dashboard tach with a separate measurement?  Maybe a laser tach on the flywheel?

Does the boat speed reflect the lower RPM's you see? In other words, does the boat run at the speed you expect at 2070 RPM?  Or is it faster, like you used to get at full throttle?

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA (heading south in 24 to 48 hours...)


Re: Cooling Super Maramu Refrigeration Units

Bill Kinney
 

Paul,

I think you are worried about differences that, while theoretically true, matter little in the real world.  In my experience, the temperature of the air under the settee is trivially different than the air in the cabin.  The amount of air moved by the fan is also so slightly different in the two directions that it doesn't really matter.

Far more important is to keep the condenser clean and free of dust and dirt.  Even a light coating of dirt will have a far bigger impact on heat transfer.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA (heading south in 24 to 48 hours....)

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