Date   

Linear drive wiring mystery

Thomas Kleman
 

On SM 422, I have a raymarine type 2 linear drive (M81134), which is a 24 volt unit with a 12 volt clutch. Yet, in inspecting my unit, I noticed the motor wires are labeled 12 volt (red and black); Im not sure if it is an Amel label or a Raymarine label. I'm hoping before I test the voltage that I've overlooked something obvious.

Tom and Kirstin
SV L'ORIENT
Tahaa, French Polynesia


Re: Older style C-Drive; oil type and temperature

 

Mike,

I have always believed that heat in the C-drive is the result of heat transfer from the main engine. The main engine's operating temperature is 80C, and after around an hour of motoring in tropical water, the C-drive would measure close to 80C. 

That said, I assume if the seawater is significantly colder an aluminum C-drive is likely to be cooler than its composite replacement. 

This doesn't answer your question directly, but hopefully gives you more data. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse 
Amel Owners Yacht School
+1 832-380-4970 | brouse@...
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com 
Yacht School Calendar: www.preparetocastoff.blogspot.com/p/calendar.html


   


On Tue, Nov 2, 2021, 2:55 PM Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy) <svtrilogy53@...> wrote:
Hello everyone,

I'm curious if anyone out there still has the old aluminium C-Drive installed in their SuperMaramu?

Is the 80-90 gear oil recommended for both C-Drives (aluminium and cast iron)?

What is the operating temperature range for the C-Drive (how hot should the upper gearbox get while motoring)?

I'm also asking Amel these questions and will respond here with any useful answers I get back. I have a feeling there aren't many aluminium C-Drives still out there...

Cheers,
Mike Longcor
SV Trilogy - SM23
NZ


Re: Mainsail furler rebuild

Eric Freedman <kimberlite@...>
 

Go it—Thanks

Eric

 

 

From: kimberlite
Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 2021 3:58 PM
To: 'main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io' <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Subject: RE: Mainsail furler rebuild

 

Hi,

Someone posted the sizes of the lip seals and bearing numbers needed to rebuild this gearbox.

I can’t seem to locate it.

Would someone please forward the list to me.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io On Behalf Of Mark McGovern
Sent: Thursday, August 26, 2021 5:47 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Mainsail furler rebuild

 

Gregory,

Essentially, yes.  There is a ton of information in the thread link that I sent you earlier including part numbers and sources for the parts. 

Also, Woody from Mothership Adrift made a video of his rebuild:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s-p8bdPpnmk

Last, consider setting up a signature in your account which contains your name, boat model, hull #, boat name, and your current location.  It will help members to better assist you with your question and if you put your location, you might even get some help in person.  If you are not sure how to do that here is a link to instructions:  https://groups.io/g/TentecArgonautVI/topic/how_to_create_an_e_signature/10289297?p=

--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Belfast, ME USA


Re: Mainsail furler rebuild

Eric Freedman <kimberlite@...>
 

Hi,

Someone posted the sizes of the lip seals and bearing numbers needed to rebuild this gearbox.

I can’t seem to locate it.

Would someone please forward the list to me.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io On Behalf Of Mark McGovern
Sent: Thursday, August 26, 2021 5:47 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Mainsail furler rebuild

 

Gregory,

Essentially, yes.  There is a ton of information in the thread link that I sent you earlier including part numbers and sources for the parts. 

Also, Woody from Mothership Adrift made a video of his rebuild:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s-p8bdPpnmk

Last, consider setting up a signature in your account which contains your name, boat model, hull #, boat name, and your current location.  It will help members to better assist you with your question and if you put your location, you might even get some help in person.  If you are not sure how to do that here is a link to instructions:  https://groups.io/g/TentecArgonautVI/topic/how_to_create_an_e_signature/10289297?p=

--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Belfast, ME USA


Re: Older style C-Drive; oil type and temperature

Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi
 

Hi Mike,

We just replaced our aluminum c-drive, this summer. Maud at Amel supplied the complete new drive unit. We still have our old one and are wondering what to do with it. We had serviced the upper part this year as we thought that the new one would not be ready in time, in the event it all worked out.

The upper unit was overheating last year, after losing the oil into the bilge, but that is a long story. 

Amel recommends 15w 40 oil for the aluminum unit.

Best regards,
Helen and Kosta 
SV Meditation SM 29 of 1990
Greece 


On 2 Nov 2021, at 8:55 PM, Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy) <svtrilogy53@...> wrote:

Hello everyone,

I'm curious if anyone out there still has the old aluminium C-Drive installed in their SuperMaramu?

Is the 80-90 gear oil recommended for both C-Drives (aluminium and cast iron)?

What is the operating temperature range for the C-Drive (how hot should the upper gearbox get while motoring)?

I'm also asking Amel these questions and will respond here with any useful answers I get back. I have a feeling there aren't many aluminium C-Drives still out there...

Cheers,
Mike Longcor
SV Trilogy - SM23
NZ


Replacement Grp 31 Batteries in the Bow

Arlo Bess
 

Hello all. I am looking to replace my 3 Grp 31 batteries in the Bow this season. They are sealed lead acid and were in the boat when I bought the vessel 4 years ago now. So they have lived a good life, (they were there 2 years prior wt PO). I currently have Lithium Batteries for the house Bank and sealed lead acid for engine start bank and use a DC to DC charger to manage the different charge profiles. All DC systems are 12 volt on the boat.

So I am considering using the Firefly Grp 31 batteries in the bow since the amp draw of the thruster and anchor windlass exceeds what the Lithium battery manufactures will cover under their warranty.

Any collective experience on which battery to use up there? 

thanks
Arlo
1985 Amel Mango # 46


Older style C-Drive; oil type and temperature

Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy)
 

Hello everyone,

I'm curious if anyone out there still has the old aluminium C-Drive installed in their SuperMaramu?

Is the 80-90 gear oil recommended for both C-Drives (aluminium and cast iron)?

What is the operating temperature range for the C-Drive (how hot should the upper gearbox get while motoring)?

I'm also asking Amel these questions and will respond here with any useful answers I get back. I have a feeling there aren't many aluminium C-Drives still out there...

Cheers,
Mike Longcor
SV Trilogy - SM23
NZ


Santorin helm seat support pipe loose

Craig Briggs
 

The support pipe for my helm seat has become quite loose and wobbly inside the bottom floor structure hole. It rotates and moves back and forth about 2-3mm, but not up and down as it seems there may be a bolt through the pipe inside the the base.

Does anyone know how it is constructed?  I haven't found any Amel drawings showing this. 

I could probably just fill the void around the pipe with epoxy, but if I could actually remove it I may rework the entire assembly to allow the seat to rotate 180° and lower to the level of the bench seating for better cockpit room. I am thinking of cutting a hole in the base to gain access but sure would like to know what I'm getting into beforehand. Any input appreciated.

Thanks,
Craig - SN68 Sangaris, back at Tropic Isle Harbor, FL


Antifouling / Bottompaint

Bernd Spanner
 

#Antifouling
#Bottompaint
 
Hello, a few questions:
 
1. How often do you renew your AF/BP?
2. Which one do you use?
3. Where do you sail Cold/Med/Warmwater?
 
Thanks
--
Bernd
SN 119 / Cascais, Portugal


Re: Leak at baby stay chainplate on 54

Nick Newington
 

I decided to cut an inspection hatch.
See photos 
Looks fine as is for now, but if the problem persists I will pull the chain plate and re-bed it properly.
Thanks to everyone for the general info.
Nick
Amelia
AML 54-019
Marmaris

On 1 Nov 2021, at 17:29, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:


Nick,

I am not sure, but I think it may be able to be caulked on the deck. Here is a photo of an A55 staysail chainplate from inside the forward locker. The two smaller bolts are from the top fixture on deck shown in the 2nd photo. There are four of these bolts, with two inside the front locker and two on the other side of that bulkhead. I do not know how accessible the other two are, but this is what your challenge is and I would really like to know how this is going to work for you. Also, I wonder what the second small plate on the deck is for??

<image.png>


<image.png>


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar

On Mon, Nov 1, 2021 at 12:56 AM ngtnewington Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
We have been enjoying a couple of rainy days here in Turkey. Sometimes really heavy rain, so an opportune moment to look for leaks. Apart from some stitch holes in the spray hood we only have one.
I noticed a small puddle under the floor in forward port cabin next to the depth sounder transducer. Fresh water and a small trickle from forward. Long and short of it is that it is coming from the inner inner forstay. Then running down behind the lining and out below the cupboard in the port forward cabin. Then draining aft.
The problem is that the shower moulding hides it. What I would like to do is remove the chain plate and re-bed it. However without cutting an access hole it  is not possible.

I had the same leak a couple of years ago and bodged it by running a bead of sealant around the plate outside. Looks like I will do that again…
 Has anyone else been here? Can offer better solution?
Nick
S/Y Amelia
Marmaris bay at anchor
AML 54-019






Re: Leak at baby stay chainplate on 54

Nick Newington
 

I have scraped out the old sealant and recalled from the outside. You will see in the photos that there are no fasteners on the deck fitting. That there is no access from the forward head.
I have had the handle bar in the head off and it is fine. There is no electrical current leakage.
 either.
I used white exterior grade silicon outside, in the hope that it remains flexible.
I need to decide if I will cut an access panel in the head moulding. I think I will, and cover it with a polished stainless plate. Still mulling it over, maybe I will inspect the fitting when going up wind in a stiff breeze for movement.
Also photo of the staysail stay that has cover plate without fastenings. The chainplate is clearly visible in the forpeak so I have no worries there.
Nick
SY Amelia
AML54-019 
Marmaris Turkey


On 1 Nov 2021, at 17:29, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:


Nick,

I am not sure, but I think it may be able to be caulked on the deck. Here is a photo of an A55 staysail chainplate from inside the forward locker. The two smaller bolts are from the top fixture on deck shown in the 2nd photo. There are four of these bolts, with two inside the front locker and two on the other side of that bulkhead. I do not know how accessible the other two are, but this is what your challenge is and I would really like to know how this is going to work for you. Also, I wonder what the second small plate on the deck is for??

<image.png>


<image.png>


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar

On Mon, Nov 1, 2021 at 12:56 AM ngtnewington Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
We have been enjoying a couple of rainy days here in Turkey. Sometimes really heavy rain, so an opportune moment to look for leaks. Apart from some stitch holes in the spray hood we only have one.
I noticed a small puddle under the floor in forward port cabin next to the depth sounder transducer. Fresh water and a small trickle from forward. Long and short of it is that it is coming from the inner inner forstay. Then running down behind the lining and out below the cupboard in the port forward cabin. Then draining aft.
The problem is that the shower moulding hides it. What I would like to do is remove the chain plate and re-bed it. However without cutting an access hole it  is not possible.

I had the same leak a couple of years ago and bodged it by running a bead of sealant around the plate outside. Looks like I will do that again…
 Has anyone else been here? Can offer better solution?
Nick
S/Y Amelia
Marmaris bay at anchor
AML 54-019






Re: Leak at baby stay chainplate on 54

Jamie Wendell
 

By the way, I forgot to mention that I do not have that second plate on the deck, nor do I have the larger plate you show on the inside. I have only the upper curved plate, which limits access.
It seems that perhaps Amel was trying to ensure good access in later A54s and changed the design.
Jamie
Phantom, A54 #44


Re: Leak at baby stay chainplate on 54

Jamie Wendell
 

Nick, I have the same problem and it has been staining the inside wall of the forward head down to the towel bar for quite some time. Outside caulking did not work for me, even though I took off the inside plate to inspect and seal.
I think I will have to take the entire thing apart and reseal, but I would be interested in a successful solution short of that.
Thanks,
Jamie
Phantom, A54 #44


Re: Hold down fittings for aft locker.

Eric Freedman <kimberlite@...>
 

Bill,

Thanks for the Intel.

Kindest Regards,

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io On Behalf Of Bill Kinney
Sent: Monday, November 01, 2021 10:42 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Hold down fittings for aft locker.

 

The latches on our boat were fit quite differently, no metal plate at all.  Problem and solution described here:
https://fetchinketch.net/boat-projects/hatch-latches/

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
offshore, Cape Hatteras 


Re: Hold down fittings for aft locker.

Eric Freedman <kimberlite@...>
 

Bill,

Thanks,

That is what I thought.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io On Behalf Of CW Bill Rouse
Sent: Monday, November 01, 2021 10:14 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Hold down fittings for aft locker.

 

Eric,

 

Yes, that is my understanding, at least for some of the SMs built, maybe all of them, but certainly all that I have seen. 

 

And I believe the issue is that over time the screw sealant deteriorates. Amel used sealant on the screw to keep saltwater out. When saltwater gets inside, the metal plate will rust into nothing.

 

Remember, if you need to replace the steel plate embedded in the balsa deck, you can get to it from under the deck leaving the faux teak and faux caulk untouched.

 

Bill


Image removed by sender.

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School

Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 

Image removed by sender.Image removed by sender.Image removed by sender.

 

View My Training Calendar

Image removed by sender.

 

On Sun, Oct 31, 2021 at 11:23 PM Eric Freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Does anyone know how the hinged fittings with the black knobs on the aft locker are fitted?

One of the screws seems stripped.

My assumption is that there is a plate under the deck that the screws fit into.

Fair Winds

ERIC

Kimberlite Amel SM 376

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Eric Freedman
Sent: Sunday, October 31, 2021 4:06 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Genuine alternator for a yanmar 4jh3

 

 

Does anyone have a USA source for a Yanmar genuine Hitachi 4jh3 isolated ground alternator?

Fair Winds

ERIC

Kimberlite Amel SM 376

 


Re: Leak at baby stay chainplate on 54

Martin Birkhoff
 

Hi Nick,

the deck passage of the baby stay also leaked on Mago del Sur. We reset the chaine plate and sealed it. If my memory is correct 2 screws fixed the plate to the deck. Both located aft of the chain. Now the connection consists on 5 screws (see first pic). I would have preferred to turn the angle of the chaine above deck by 90°, as the load angle would be more favourable, but this seemed to be too much effort and we left it as it was.
In order to access the main bolts of the chaine below deck, we had to enlarge the existing inspection opening in the forward bathroom. Cover f the opening see pic 2. The fastening bolts of the chain were cleaned and new nuts including new washers were put on. 

This was an opportunity to inspect the space between the bulkhead and the cell of the bath. We found a lot of corrosion caused by the leakage on the bolts, nuts and screws accessible through the inspection opening. Then we discovered that the bolts (no stainless steel!) of the handle bar in the bath were completely corroded. The bolts of the handle bar go through the bulkhead into the small cupboard at the top of the passage to the bathroom. When the handle bar was replaced, it turned out that one of these bolts ran through the middle of a three-core flat wire. (Note: this kind of cable is designed for in wall use. In my eyes it has no place on a boat), which supplies the lights on the front bulkhead and in the bathroom. The very hidden cable was warm and the insulation burnt. It's a miracle that there hasn't been a cable fire during the last years. I assume that the handle bar was an original setting. If you have a bar in the bow bathrooom please check whether there is a slight voltage on the bar.

Regards

Martin 
SV Mago del Sur - 54#40
Palermo, Sicily


Re: Hold down fittings for aft locker.

Bill Kinney
 

The latches on our boat were fit quite differently, no metal plate at all.  Problem and solution described here:
https://fetchinketch.net/boat-projects/hatch-latches/

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
offshore, Cape Hatteras 


Re: Leak at baby stay chainplate on 54

 

Nick,

I am not sure, but I think it may be able to be caulked on the deck. Here is a photo of an A55 staysail chainplate from inside the forward locker. The two smaller bolts are from the top fixture on deck shown in the 2nd photo. There are four of these bolts, with two inside the front locker and two on the other side of that bulkhead. I do not know how accessible the other two are, but this is what your challenge is and I would really like to know how this is going to work for you. Also, I wonder what the second small plate on the deck is for??

image.png

image.png

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar

On Mon, Nov 1, 2021 at 12:56 AM ngtnewington Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
We have been enjoying a couple of rainy days here in Turkey. Sometimes really heavy rain, so an opportune moment to look for leaks. Apart from some stitch holes in the spray hood we only have one.
I noticed a small puddle under the floor in forward port cabin next to the depth sounder transducer. Fresh water and a small trickle from forward. Long and short of it is that it is coming from the inner inner forstay. Then running down behind the lining and out below the cupboard in the port forward cabin. Then draining aft.
The problem is that the shower moulding hides it. What I would like to do is remove the chain plate and re-bed it. However without cutting an access hole it  is not possible.

I had the same leak a couple of years ago and bodged it by running a bead of sealant around the plate outside. Looks like I will do that again…
 Has anyone else been here? Can offer better solution?
Nick
S/Y Amelia
Marmaris bay at anchor
AML 54-019






Re: Hold down fittings for aft locker.

 

Eric,

Yes, that is my understanding, at least for some of the SMs built, maybe all of them, but certainly all that I have seen. 

And I believe the issue is that over time the screw sealant deteriorates. Amel used sealant on the screw to keep saltwater out. When saltwater gets inside, the metal plate will rust into nothing.

Remember, if you need to replace the steel plate embedded in the balsa deck, you can get to it from under the deck leaving the faux teak and faux caulk untouched.

Bill

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar

On Sun, Oct 31, 2021 at 11:23 PM Eric Freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Does anyone know how the hinged fittings with the black knobs on the aft locker are fitted?

One of the screws seems stripped.

My assumption is that there is a plate under the deck that the screws fit into.

Fair Winds

ERIC

Kimberlite Amel SM 376

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Eric Freedman
Sent: Sunday, October 31, 2021 4:06 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Genuine alternator for a yanmar 4jh3

 

 

Does anyone have a USA source for a Yanmar genuine Hitachi 4jh3 isolated ground alternator?

Fair Winds

ERIC

Kimberlite Amel SM 376

 


Valeo 28.5 V 60 A specification and regulator

EricOpdeweegh
 

Hi Amelians,

We have become the proud owner of sv Abayomi (ex Nathape) since June this year and have sailed her back to Holland from Gaeta in Italy to be able to prepare her in the coming 1.5 year for our circumnavigation marked on the Calendar to commence in July 2023
We are now starting to look into the conversion from Gel to LiFePo4 
As we understand the Alternator of our Volvo TMD22A needs protection.

But first we would like to understand how the present situation is regulated. We have the support of a marine electrician who will draw up and assit with the conversion as we are beginners in the world of electrons

Can anyone assist us and tell us what the specifications of our Valeo ZV3729H alternator are and how the current system works? How is the temperature is regulated? Is there a regulator at the moment?

Thanks for the replies

Eric & Els Opdeweegh
sv Abayomi 
SM 158
Currently in Holland

  

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