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Volvo Heat Exchanger
Patrick McAneny
I have been dealing with an overheating problem on my Volvo TMD 22A for a couple of years. At this point I am not sure if I have much of an issue, I don't know because I have four infrared guns ,two sort of agree ,two others ,more expensive show different temps,sometimes 20 degrees apart. At 2500 rpms I may be at 185 or it could be 197 at the thermostat , depending on which gun you choose to believe .
I have done everything ,supply lines ,exhaust elbow . new thermostat, new pump impeller and cover . My question, I took out the heat exchanger core today ,it was clean (since I clean it every year) ,.Does it matter the orientation of the holes in the core ? If the water exits down at the front of the vessel ,should the holes face down ,does that really matter , I don't think it would ,but want to ask in case it does. I am grasping at every straw . Thanks, Pat SM Shenanigans
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Re: Antifouling / Bottompaint
Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
Hi Slavako. I used Micron 66 for years. OK for a start but latterly I suspected a change in formulation as it got progressively less effective with each use. Regards Danny SM 299 Ocean Pearl Mangonui New Zealand
On 05 November 2021 at 08:37 Slavko Despotovic <slavko@...> wrote:
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Re: Retractable bow thruster replacement
Chris Doucette
Pual,
Consider a different option- abandoning the Amel (unsupoted) system and go for you own solution using new Tech.. If it were me, I would use the space for the existing bow thruster to install a Jet type- with no external moving parts, no propellers, things to retract, gear seals, etc! Sooo much more servicable and could use existing wirring for battery opps.. check these guys out = https://www.jetthruster.com/ . CHris
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Re: Climma Heat
Stefan Jeukendrup
Hi Mike, Had this problem on all 3 of my climma. There where 2 separate causes: Thermal overload because the fan was at lowest speed/not running causing a blown thermal fuse. Of cause them it does not work again until the thermal fuse has been replaced. This has been described on the forum before. Reason 2 : dust and rust in the TI Klixon thermostat causing them to stick open circuit only to close again when the temperature is really low. Cleaning the Klixon contacts/mechanism worked. Hope this helps, Stefan Jeukendrup svMalaka Queen SM2k #348 @ Newry Northern Ireland Op 6 nov. 2021 11:03 schreef "Mike Ondra via groups.io" <mdondra@...>:
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Re: Climma Heat
Every time I experienced this on our SM or others the cause was poor air flow triggering the safety cutoff switch, and the most common causes are in this order: 1.) Fan capacitors out of spec. 2.) The fan set to a speed other than High 3.) Clogged air filter or other airflow restrictions I have known a few owners to replace the safety switch, but I was never 100% certain that it was needed, although I am sure the safety switch will fail. Best, CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School +1 832-380-4970 | brouse@... 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com Yacht School Calendar: www.preparetocastoff.blogspot.com/p/calendar.html
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Climma Heat
I have seen a number of posts on Climma unit heat cutting off 10 to 15 seconds after being turned on, but no solutions. Sounds like overheat protection control failure. This even when filter is removed to attain maximum air flow, and still cuts out at all fan speeds. (Might be instructive to know if it cuts out more quickly at low speed than high speed as that would indicate that there is at least some feedback in the high temp cutoff control.) Has anyone determined a cause? Thermistor failure? Relay issue? Wiring short or break? Solution? Part replacement?
Mike Ondra Former mechanic Aletes SM#240
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Re: Replacement Grp 31 Batteries in the Bow
Arlo
Thank you Bill! Great info! Will be doing more research into those areas....
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Re: Retractable bow thruster replacement
Bill Kinney
Paul,
You might want to get in touch with Aras Grunius (you'll find him on this forum). He has a Sharki, and is in the process of rebuilding his bow thruster with the help of a local machinist. This was the first of the Amel designed bow thrusters. It was a creative design and in a lot of ways, totally awesome, especially considering the state of the art at the time. BUT... they are totally unserviceable. Once they go bad, there is no way to take them apart and replace parts. Amel has officially stopped supporting these boats this year, although this is not really a change, since they have not had drawings or molds for parts for some time. Bill Kinney SM160, Harmonie Hilton Head Island, SC, USA
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Re: QUICK Water Heater
Bill Kinney
Elaine,
The Quick heaters are stainless. 304 stainless is frequently slightly magnetic. It's possible that the rust you see is more from the water than the heater. Many sources of water are rich in iron, and it can precipitate when it is heated. If the inside lining is not rough and pitted I would clean it up and call it good. Are you sure the Quick is the original heater? I haven't seen any Quick equipment as original on an Amel. I thought the only water heaters used in the SMs were Isotherms. Certainly true on boat both older, and newer, than yours. But Amel did experiment throughout the production run, so anything is possible. Bill Kinney SM160, Harmonie Hilton Head, SC, USA
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Re: Antifouling / Bottompaint
Bill Kinney
We have used Seahawk Biocop, another ablative paint. The primary difference between it and Micron 66 (which I had a long and happy history with on my old boat in San Francisco Bay) is that BioCop is stable in freshwater. Without salt in the water, Micron66 dissolves and "ablates" very quickly. Since we occasionally spend a fair bit of time in places with water on the fresher side of brackish it semed that the SeaHawk paint was the better choice for us. The fresh(er) water places we have been recently have been the Chesapeake, from Annapolis north, the upper reaches of the New River in Fort Lauderdale, and Bas d'Or Lake in Nova Scotia.
This is what two coats of BioCop looks like before power washing after 13 months of sailing mostly in Florida and the Bahamas, but also travel to the upper reaches of the Chesapeake. So mostly very warm water, and varying a lot in salinity. In that time frame it was cleaned exactly zero times. If we expected to push out to 2 years, we would put three coats on. The prop has a standard application of PropSpeed as well, of the same age. Also, not cleaned at all. Overall, we are very happy with this program. 
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Re: Antifouling / Bottompaint
Antifouling paint discussions are a bit like anchor discussions, everyone has a favourite and for all the right reasons - for them.
We used to use Micron 66 but had a bad experience many years ago- turned out it was the guy that did the work, not the paint. He was, unbeknownst to us, in financial difficulties and he was thinning the paint to make it go further! He's out of business now. We used Seahawk Cucote on Elyse for one season. It was fine while we were in the South Pacific islands, but in the marina in New Zealand it didn't work out at all well. The weed growth was atrocious. Last four years we have been using Carboline Sea Barrier 3000 ablative paint. We made the decision by having the boat painter paint 4 patches of different antifouling paint on Elyse's keel. When we hauled out 6 months later, it was plain that Carboline had done the best job. Our subsequent experience with it in New Zealand, sitting in a marina and sailing in the South Pacific islands has been excellent. I guess you would rate that as "warm water". We normally haul every 24 months for antifoul and underwater maintenance - not this year though due to travel restrictions. My friend JP in Opua organised to take Elyse out of the marina to have her bottom scrubbed and zincs changed by divers last week. The antifoul will just have to wait, but when we do it, it will be Carboline Sea Barrier 3000 again - it's also one of the least expensive. Cheers Alan Elyse SM437
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Re: Older style C-Drive; oil type and temperature
Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi
Hi Mike,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Our old c-drive was overheating last year even after we fixed the oil leak, it was really really hot , like an iron. There was also a strange smell. We could only use the engine on low revs for about 1/2 hour. Shame you don’t want the whole unit for parts, lol. We’ll be happy to answer any questions. All the best, Helen and Kosta SV Meditation SM 29 Greece
On 5 Nov 2021, at 9:29 PM, Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy) <svtrilogy53@...> wrote:
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QUICK Water Heater
We have just removed our Quick water heater from 1999 super Maramu to clean and service it. Any advice on whether it is stainless steel, it's only slighty magnetic. It's still the original heater and works perfectly but is very rusty inside.
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Re: Older style C-Drive; oil type and temperature
Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy)
Hi Bill, Thank you for your insights on this. I didn't think about engine heat transferring to the C-Drive. I figured it was mostly internal friction of the C-Drive itself, especially with a more viscous oil. We're now running the thicker 80-90 oil in the older style C-Drive. I don't have a good baseline of C-Drive temperature when running 15w-40 so I'm really not sure if there was a real change or I'm just hypervigilent now. I'll get the temp gun on it next time we're out motoring but around 80C sounds right... I could hold a hand on it for just a few seconds. Still waiting a response from Amel. Helen and Kosta say the Amel recommendation is 15w-40 for the old style C-Drive. I wonder how much risk I've taken by using 80-90? If anyone else has any data or insight on this please let me know. Thanks again for the help! Cheers, Mike Longcor SV Trilogy SM23 NZ
On Wed, Nov 3, 2021, 9:19 AM CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
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Re: Older style C-Drive; oil type and temperature
Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy)
Hi Helen and Kosta, Thank you guys for this information. I hope your newly installed drive is serving you well! Spares are great but carrying an entire C-Drive might be too much, even for a SM 😂 Given your experience with the old and new drives, I may need to send a few more questions your way. Thank again for the help. Cheers, Mike Longcor SV Trilogy SM23 NZ
On Wed, Nov 3, 2021, 8:33 AM Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi <helenmi57@...> wrote:
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Re: Replacement Grp 31 Batteries in the Bow
Bill Kinney
Arlo, They also have some particularities that might need addressing in the existing charging system. When not being used, they prefer to NOT be connected to a charger in float mode, rather they should just sit. They also have a different charging voltage profile than standard batteries. Lastly, to get maximum performance and life span they need to be charged rather quickly, at 0.2 to 0.5 C. Can your existing charging system handle these needs? If the existing type of batteries have worked for you, I expect they will be the most economical choice in both the long and short run.
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Re: Antifouling / Bottompaint
Eric Freedman <kimberlite@...>
HI, I just had my boat painted 2 weeks ago with Micron 66. Micron 66 is manufactured by Interlux and is on their website. Fair Winds Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376 USA
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io On Behalf Of Slavko Despotovic
Just checked on International web site and Micron 66 is "retired". No replacement have been mentioned. It is mentioned on Australia site, not on others. Local dealer in Croatia is saying Trilux 33. That is the one that is on Bonne Anse.
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Re: Antifouling / Bottompaint
Just checked on International web site and Micron 66 is "retired". No replacement have been mentioned. It is mentioned on Australia site, not on others. Local dealer in Croatia is saying Trilux 33. That is the one that is on Bonne Anse.
-- Slavko SM 2000 #279 Bonne Anse in Croatia
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Re: Retractable bow thruster replacement
Paul, I do not think a late model SM bow thruster will fit. I have not seen a technical drawing for a Sharki Bow Thruster. Ask SAV@.... There is not an Amel graveyard that I am aware of. Bill
On Thu, Nov 4, 2021 at 12:33 PM Eric Freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:
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Re: Antifouling / Bottompaint
I like Micron 66 because it reacts with saltwater to release biocide and is microscopically ablative. I think all of the Micron series is a hard paint that is microscopically ablative, each with different release systems. In the tropics, we needed this sort of protection. There is no ablative action with Coppercoat. And in the tropics, people with Coppercoat were cleaning their hulls every month or two. Everyone needs to be aware that there are the best solutions for different areas. Also, the SeaJet 033 that Amel was recently using (I had not heard they switched to Coppercoat) is difficult to find in areas that do not use Europe as the supply chain. Lastly, I had Micron 66 put on our SM in New Zealand and someone I know had Coppercoat done at the same time. Nine months later when we docked side-by-side in Singapore his hull had about 1" of marine growth on the hull because he had not cleaned it, our SM was perfectly clean. If you don't mind cleaning your hull Coppercoat might be the best thing for certain cruising areas. Bill
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