Date   

Volvo Heat Exchanger

Patrick McAneny
 

I have been dealing with an overheating problem on my Volvo TMD 22A for a couple of years. At this point I am not sure if I have much of an issue, I don't know because I have four infrared guns ,two sort of agree ,two others ,more expensive show different temps,sometimes 20 degrees apart. At 2500 rpms I may be at 185 or it could be 197 at the thermostat , depending on which gun you choose to believe . 
I have done everything ,supply lines ,exhaust elbow . new thermostat, new pump impeller and cover . My question, I took out the heat exchanger core today ,it was clean (since I clean it every year) ,.Does it matter the orientation  of the holes in the core ? If the water exits down at the front of the vessel ,should the holes face down ,does that really matter , I don't think it would ,but want to ask in case it does. I am grasping at every straw . 
Thanks,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


Re: Antifouling / Bottompaint

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Slavako. I used Micron 66 for years. OK for a start but latterly I suspected a change in formulation as it got progressively less effective with each use.

Regards

Danny

SM 299 Ocean Pearl

Mangonui New Zealand

On 05 November 2021 at 08:37 Slavko Despotovic <slavko@...> wrote:

Just checked on International web site and Micron 66 is "retired". No replacement have been mentioned. It is mentioned on Australia site, not on others. Local dealer in Croatia is saying Trilux 33. That is the one that is on Bonne Anse.
--
Slavko
SM 2000
#279 Bonne Anse in Croatia


Re: Retractable bow thruster replacement

Chris Doucette
 

Pual, 

Consider a different option- abandoning the Amel (unsupoted) system and go for you own solution using new Tech..  If it were me, I would use the space for the existing bow thruster to install a Jet type- with no external moving parts, no propellers, things to retract, gear seals, etc!  Sooo much more servicable and could use existing wirring for battery opps..   check these guys out = https://www.jetthruster.com/ .


CHris


Re: Climma Heat

Stefan Jeukendrup
 

Hi Mike,

Had this problem on all 3 of my climma.
There where 2 separate causes:
Thermal overload because the fan was at lowest speed/not running causing a blown thermal fuse. Of cause them it does not work again until the thermal fuse has been replaced. This has been described on the forum before.
Reason 2 :
dust and rust in the TI  Klixon thermostat causing them to stick open circuit only to close again when the temperature is really low. Cleaning the Klixon contacts/mechanism worked.


Hope this helps,

Stefan Jeukendrup
svMalaka Queen
SM2k #348 @ Newry Northern Ireland



Op 6 nov. 2021 11:03 schreef "Mike Ondra via groups.io" <mdondra@...>:

I have seen a number of posts on Climma unit heat cutting off 10 to 15 seconds after being turned on, but no solutions. Sounds like overheat protection control failure. This even when filter is removed to attain maximum air flow, and still cuts out at all fan speeds. (Might be instructive to know if it cuts out more quickly at low speed than high speed as that would indicate that there is at least some feedback in the high temp cutoff control.)

Has anyone determined a cause? Thermistor failure? Relay issue? Wiring short or break?

Solution? Part replacement?

 

Mike Ondra

Former mechanic Aletes SM#240



Re: Climma Heat

 

Every time I experienced this on our SM or others the cause was poor air flow triggering the safety cutoff switch, and the most common causes are in this order:
1.) Fan capacitors out of spec. 
2.) The fan set to a speed other than High
3.) Clogged air filter or other airflow restrictions

I have known a few owners to replace the safety switch, but I was never 100% certain that it was needed, although I am sure the safety switch will fail. 


Best,

CW Bill Rouse 
Amel Owners Yacht School
+1 832-380-4970 | brouse@...
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com 
Yacht School Calendar: www.preparetocastoff.blogspot.com/p/calendar.html


   


On Sat, Nov 6, 2021, 07:03 Mike Ondra via groups.io <mdondra=verizon.net@groups.io> wrote:

I have seen a number of posts on Climma unit heat cutting off 10 to 15 seconds after being turned on, but no solutions. Sounds like overheat protection control failure. This even when filter is removed to attain maximum air flow, and still cuts out at all fan speeds. (Might be instructive to know if it cuts out more quickly at low speed than high speed as that would indicate that there is at least some feedback in the high temp cutoff control.)

Has anyone determined a cause? Thermistor failure? Relay issue? Wiring short or break?

Solution? Part replacement?

 

Mike Ondra

Former mechanic Aletes SM#240


Climma Heat

Mike Ondra
 

I have seen a number of posts on Climma unit heat cutting off 10 to 15 seconds after being turned on, but no solutions. Sounds like overheat protection control failure. This even when filter is removed to attain maximum air flow, and still cuts out at all fan speeds. (Might be instructive to know if it cuts out more quickly at low speed than high speed as that would indicate that there is at least some feedback in the high temp cutoff control.)

Has anyone determined a cause? Thermistor failure? Relay issue? Wiring short or break?

Solution? Part replacement?

 

Mike Ondra

Former mechanic Aletes SM#240


Re: Replacement Grp 31 Batteries in the Bow

Arlo
 

Thank you Bill! Great info! Will be doing more research into those areas.... 


Re: Retractable bow thruster replacement

Bill Kinney
 

Paul,

You might want to get in touch with Aras Grunius (you'll find him on this forum).  He has a Sharki, and is in the process of rebuilding his bow thruster with the help of a local machinist.

This was the first of the Amel designed bow thrusters.  It was a creative design and in a lot of ways, totally awesome, especially considering the state of the art at the time.  BUT... they are totally unserviceable.  Once they go bad, there is no way to take them apart and replace parts.  Amel has officially stopped supporting these boats this year, although this is not really a change, since they have not had drawings or molds for parts for some time.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Hilton Head Island, SC, USA


Re: QUICK Water Heater

Bill Kinney
 

Elaine,

The Quick heaters are stainless. 304 stainless is frequently slightly magnetic.  It's possible that the rust you see is more from the water than the heater.  Many sources of water are rich in iron, and it can precipitate when it is heated. If the inside lining is not rough and pitted I would clean it up and call it good.

Are you sure the Quick is the original heater?  I haven't seen any Quick equipment as original on an Amel.  I thought the only water heaters used in the SMs were Isotherms.  Certainly true on boat both older, and newer, than yours.  But Amel did experiment throughout the production run, so anything is possible.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Hilton Head, SC, USA


Re: Antifouling / Bottompaint

Bill Kinney
 

We have used Seahawk Biocop, another ablative paint.  The primary difference between it and Micron 66 (which I had a long and happy history with on my old boat in San Francisco Bay) is that BioCop is stable in freshwater.  Without salt in the water, Micron66 dissolves and "ablates" very quickly.  Since we occasionally spend a fair bit of time in places with water on the fresher side of brackish it semed that the SeaHawk paint was the better choice for us. The fresh(er) water places we have been recently have been the Chesapeake, from Annapolis north, the upper reaches of the New River in Fort Lauderdale, and Bas d'Or Lake in Nova Scotia.

This is what two coats of BioCop looks like before power washing after 13 months of sailing mostly in Florida and the Bahamas, but also travel to the upper reaches of the Chesapeake.  So mostly very warm water, and varying a lot in salinity. In that time frame it was cleaned exactly zero times. If we expected to push out to 2 years, we would put three coats on.

The prop has a standard application of PropSpeed as well, of the same age.  Also, not cleaned at all.  Overall, we are very happy with this program.  


Re: Antifouling / Bottompaint

Alan Leslie
 

Antifouling paint discussions are a bit like anchor discussions, everyone has a favourite and for all the right reasons - for them.
We used to use Micron 66 but had a bad experience many years ago- turned out it was the guy that did the work, not the paint. He was, unbeknownst to us, in financial difficulties and he was thinning the paint to make it go further! He's out of business now.
We used Seahawk Cucote on Elyse for one season. It was fine while we were in the South Pacific islands, but in the marina in New Zealand it didn't work out at all well. The weed growth was atrocious. 
Last four years we have been using Carboline Sea Barrier 3000 ablative paint.
We made the decision by having the boat painter paint 4 patches of different antifouling paint on Elyse's keel.
When we hauled out 6 months later, it was plain that Carboline had done the best job.
Our subsequent experience with it in New Zealand, sitting in a marina and sailing in the South Pacific islands has been excellent. I guess you would rate that as "warm water".
We normally haul every 24 months for antifoul and underwater maintenance - not this year though due to travel restrictions.
My friend JP in Opua organised to take Elyse out of the marina to have her bottom scrubbed and zincs changed by divers last week.
The antifoul will just have to wait, but when we do it, it will be Carboline Sea Barrier 3000 again - it's also one of the least expensive.
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: Older style C-Drive; oil type and temperature

Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi
 

Hi Mike,

Our old c-drive was overheating last year even after we fixed the oil leak, it was really really hot , like an iron. There was also a strange smell. We could only use the engine on low revs for about 1/2 hour.

Shame you don’t want the whole unit for parts, lol.

We’ll be happy to answer any questions.

All the best,

Helen and Kosta SV Meditation SM 29
Greece


On 5 Nov 2021, at 9:29 PM, Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy) <svtrilogy53@...> wrote:


Hi Bill,

Thank you for your insights on this. I didn't think about engine heat transferring to the C-Drive. I figured it was mostly internal friction of the C-Drive itself, especially with a more viscous oil.

We're now running the thicker 80-90 oil in the older style C-Drive. I don't have a good baseline of C-Drive temperature when running 15w-40 so I'm really not sure if there was a real change or I'm just hypervigilent now. I'll get the temp gun on it next time we're out motoring but around 80C sounds right... I could hold a hand on it for just a few seconds.

Still waiting a response from Amel. Helen and Kosta say the Amel recommendation is 15w-40 for the old style C-Drive. I wonder how much risk I've taken by using 80-90? If anyone else has any data or insight on this please let me know. Thanks again for the help!

Cheers,
Mike Longcor
SV Trilogy SM23
NZ


On Wed, Nov 3, 2021, 9:19 AM CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
Mike,

I have always believed that heat in the C-drive is the result of heat transfer from the main engine. The main engine's operating temperature is 80C, and after around an hour of motoring in tropical water, the C-drive would measure close to 80C. 

That said, I assume if the seawater is significantly colder an aluminum C-drive is likely to be cooler than its composite replacement. 

This doesn't answer your question directly, but hopefully gives you more data. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse 
Amel Owners Yacht School
+1 832-380-4970 | brouse@...
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com 
Yacht School Calendar: www.preparetocastoff.blogspot.com/p/calendar.html


   

On Tue, Nov 2, 2021, 2:55 PM Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy) <svtrilogy53@...> wrote:
Hello everyone,

I'm curious if anyone out there still has the old aluminium C-Drive installed in their SuperMaramu?

Is the 80-90 gear oil recommended for both C-Drives (aluminium and cast iron)?

What is the operating temperature range for the C-Drive (how hot should the upper gearbox get while motoring)?

I'm also asking Amel these questions and will respond here with any useful answers I get back. I have a feeling there aren't many aluminium C-Drives still out there...

Cheers,
Mike Longcor
SV Trilogy - SM23
NZ


QUICK Water Heater

Elaine Leishman
 

We have just removed our Quick water heater from 1999 super Maramu to clean and service it.  Any advice on whether it is stainless steel, it's only slighty magnetic.  It's still the original heater and works perfectly but is very rusty inside.


Re: Older style C-Drive; oil type and temperature

Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy)
 

Hi Bill,

Thank you for your insights on this. I didn't think about engine heat transferring to the C-Drive. I figured it was mostly internal friction of the C-Drive itself, especially with a more viscous oil.

We're now running the thicker 80-90 oil in the older style C-Drive. I don't have a good baseline of C-Drive temperature when running 15w-40 so I'm really not sure if there was a real change or I'm just hypervigilent now. I'll get the temp gun on it next time we're out motoring but around 80C sounds right... I could hold a hand on it for just a few seconds.

Still waiting a response from Amel. Helen and Kosta say the Amel recommendation is 15w-40 for the old style C-Drive. I wonder how much risk I've taken by using 80-90? If anyone else has any data or insight on this please let me know. Thanks again for the help!

Cheers,
Mike Longcor
SV Trilogy SM23
NZ


On Wed, Nov 3, 2021, 9:19 AM CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
Mike,

I have always believed that heat in the C-drive is the result of heat transfer from the main engine. The main engine's operating temperature is 80C, and after around an hour of motoring in tropical water, the C-drive would measure close to 80C. 

That said, I assume if the seawater is significantly colder an aluminum C-drive is likely to be cooler than its composite replacement. 

This doesn't answer your question directly, but hopefully gives you more data. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse 
Amel Owners Yacht School
+1 832-380-4970 | brouse@...
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com 
Yacht School Calendar: www.preparetocastoff.blogspot.com/p/calendar.html


   

On Tue, Nov 2, 2021, 2:55 PM Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy) <svtrilogy53@...> wrote:
Hello everyone,

I'm curious if anyone out there still has the old aluminium C-Drive installed in their SuperMaramu?

Is the 80-90 gear oil recommended for both C-Drives (aluminium and cast iron)?

What is the operating temperature range for the C-Drive (how hot should the upper gearbox get while motoring)?

I'm also asking Amel these questions and will respond here with any useful answers I get back. I have a feeling there aren't many aluminium C-Drives still out there...

Cheers,
Mike Longcor
SV Trilogy - SM23
NZ


Re: Older style C-Drive; oil type and temperature

Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy)
 

Hi Helen and Kosta,

Thank you guys for this information. I hope your newly installed drive is serving you well!

Spares are great but carrying an entire C-Drive might be too much, even for a SM 😂

Given your experience with the old and new drives, I may need to send a few more questions your way. Thank again for the help.

Cheers,
Mike Longcor
SV Trilogy SM23
NZ


On Wed, Nov 3, 2021, 8:33 AM Helen and Kostas Yuvanidi <helenmi57@...> wrote:
Hi Mike,

We just replaced our aluminum c-drive, this summer. Maud at Amel supplied the complete new drive unit. We still have our old one and are wondering what to do with it. We had serviced the upper part this year as we thought that the new one would not be ready in time, in the event it all worked out.

The upper unit was overheating last year, after losing the oil into the bilge, but that is a long story. 

Amel recommends 15w 40 oil for the aluminum unit.

Best regards,
Helen and Kosta 
SV Meditation SM 29 of 1990
Greece 


On 2 Nov 2021, at 8:55 PM, Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy) <svtrilogy53@...> wrote:

Hello everyone,

I'm curious if anyone out there still has the old aluminium C-Drive installed in their SuperMaramu?

Is the 80-90 gear oil recommended for both C-Drives (aluminium and cast iron)?

What is the operating temperature range for the C-Drive (how hot should the upper gearbox get while motoring)?

I'm also asking Amel these questions and will respond here with any useful answers I get back. I have a feeling there aren't many aluminium C-Drives still out there...

Cheers,
Mike Longcor
SV Trilogy - SM23
NZ


Re: Replacement Grp 31 Batteries in the Bow

Bill Kinney
 

Arlo,

we use firefly batteries as our main house batteries and are very happy with the performance and value. Certainly, they would work well in your application, but…  you will be paying a steep premium over flooded batteries for cycle life and partial state of charge performance that will never be used in the bow thruster only application.

They also have some particularities that might need addressing in the existing charging system.  When not being used, they prefer to NOT be connected to a charger in float mode, rather they should just sit. They also have a different charging voltage profile than standard batteries. Lastly, to get maximum performance and life span they need to be charged rather quickly, at 0.2 to 0.5 C. Can your existing charging system handle these needs? 

If the existing type of batteries have worked for you, I expect they will be the most economical choice in both the long and short run.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Hilton Head, SC, USA


Re: Antifouling / Bottompaint

Eric Freedman <kimberlite@...>
 

HI,

I just had my boat painted 2 weeks ago with Micron 66.

Micron 66 is manufactured by Interlux and is on their website.

Fair Winds

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

USA

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io On Behalf Of Slavko Despotovic
Sent: Thursday, November 04, 2021 3:37 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Antifouling / Bottompaint

 

Just checked on International web site and Micron 66 is "retired". No replacement have been mentioned. It is mentioned on Australia site, not on others. Local dealer in Croatia is saying Trilux 33. That is the one that is on Bonne Anse.
--
Slavko
SM 2000
#279 Bonne Anse in Croatia


Re: Antifouling / Bottompaint

Slavko Despotovic
 

Just checked on International web site and Micron 66 is "retired". No replacement have been mentioned. It is mentioned on Australia site, not on others. Local dealer in Croatia is saying Trilux 33. That is the one that is on Bonne Anse.
--
Slavko
SM 2000
#279 Bonne Anse in Croatia


Re: Retractable bow thruster replacement

 

Paul, I do not think a late model SM bow thruster will fit. I have not seen a technical drawing for a Sharki Bow Thruster. Ask SAV@....

There is not an Amel graveyard that I am aware of.

Bill


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar

On Thu, Nov 4, 2021 at 12:33 PM Eric Freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Paul,

I have a spare complete bow thruster, motor, and jack.

It is not for sale.

What model Amel do you have and where are you located?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io On Behalf Of Paul Peschel
Sent: Thursday, November 04, 2021 8:09 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Retractable bow thruster replacement

 

Hello again,

after installing a new propeller sent in from Maud of Amel, our bow thruster worked fine for a few weeks. Somehow unfortunately the fiber-glass cover and a part of the gearbox fall off. I guess there have been some cracks in the plastic ( i saw a little oil dripping and closed it with sikaflex - big mistake and learning! ) and then it was too much force using it again after probably a long time without ( we took over the boat this summer and the previous owner died, so no details on this). I asked Maud, but the part and the mold are not available anymore.

Any idea on how to fix this? Have anybody reworked the lower section before and has suggestions on how to do it?

Many Thanks!

Paul


Re: Antifouling / Bottompaint

 



I like Micron 66 because it reacts with saltwater to release biocide and is microscopically ablative. I think all of the Micron series is a hard paint that is microscopically ablative, each with different release systems. In the tropics, we needed this sort of protection. 

There is no ablative action with Coppercoat. And in the tropics, people with Coppercoat were cleaning their hulls every month or two.

Everyone needs to be aware that there are the best solutions for different areas. 

Also, the SeaJet 033 that Amel was recently using (I had not heard they switched to Coppercoat) is difficult to find in areas that do not use Europe as the supply chain.

Lastly, I had Micron 66 put on our SM in New Zealand and someone I know had Coppercoat done at the same time. Nine months later when we docked side-by-side in Singapore his hull had about 1" of marine growth on the hull because he had not cleaned it, our SM was perfectly clean.

If you don't mind cleaning your hull Coppercoat might be the best thing for certain cruising areas.

Bill

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar

On Thu, Nov 4, 2021 at 12:27 PM Joerg Esdorn via groups.io <jhe1313=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

When I bought my boat in 2016, Amel was using Seajet paint which worked ok in the Med but I had to clean it every couple of months and I repainted every winter. I then replaced it with international Micron 350 in 2019.  The Micron I never cleaned during the season because the International support told me to trust the self polishing and any additional cleaning would just reduce the thickness of the paint. The experience with that has been good - I never saw any reduction in speed from a dirty bottom.  One reason could be that I’m now in the Atlantic and the water is colder than in the Med.  interestingly, Amel now installs Copperplate as standard.   I am considering that for next season. There is another thread on that on this forum.  


Joerg Esdorn
A55 #53 Kincsem
Currently in La Rochelle 

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