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Re: Descaling the Seawater Lines
Mark, My exact experience with white vinegar and I let the chunks soak for 6 months...still nothing. Bill
On Mon, Nov 8, 2021 at 10:59 AM Mark McGovern <mfmcgovern@...> wrote: Dean,
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Re: Antifouling / Bottompaint
SM will be 20 liters with 3 coats at the waterline and front-facing surfaces, two coats everywhere else. Bill
On Mon, Nov 8, 2021 at 10:32 AM Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> wrote:
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Re: Descaling the Seawater Lines
Hi Ruedi,
Thanks for that. Flushing the fridge/aircon with product is much easier than running it through the motor/generator due to water flow volumes. Do you think this is not needed so much with the engines? Hope your travels are going well. Wasabi looks splendid. Cheers Dean SV STELLA A54-154
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Re: Descaling the Seawater Lines
Mark,
Don't I know that job from a previous boat, so I hear you loud and clear! Luckily Stella is all freshwater flushing. I had occasion to be servicing the heads (joker valves and macerators) earlier this year and I had a look at the hoses. There was some build up but nothing like I have seen with salt-water systems. I gave them a ream-out regardless with some rigging wire, modified at the end to look like a "brush". Also, they are still flexible along their length. I was really happy with the easy access to tanks and pipes that the Amel design affords. On other boats I've had to cut through fibreglass to get at things! Good to know that the phosphoric acid products work on those lumpy bits. Cheers Dean SV STELLA A54-154
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Dehumidifier Drain Outlet
I have always run a dehumidifier on my boats for all the usual reasons.
Since I bought Stella, I have always wintered her out of the water. I've removed the depth-sounder transducer and drained the dehumidifier to the outside. Easy. This year, she is wintering in the water. This presents an interesting dilemna regarding where to drain the dehumidifier. I could send it down the sink where it ends up in the bilge as standing water waiting for the bilge pump to trigger and hopefully evacuate most of it. I don't like leaving water in the engine room when the boat is not being used and a failure of the bilge pump could end up with a few hundred litres of water in the engine room. Not ideal! I could hook up my bilge alarm to my Victron Cerbo system which could then send me an email allowing me to contact the marina staff to intervene. I could easily send it into the freshwater tank where a few hundred litres over the winter would not make that much of a dent. That would mean leaving empty space in the freshwater tank, which I usually avoid when wintering to minimise the potential for bacteria to develop in the tank space. Any other clever ideas out there? (other than don't run a dehumidifier!) Cheers Dean SV STELLA A54-154
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Re: Descaling the Seawater Lines
Hi Dean
I used to use just freshwater but I found out that the tubes getting barnacles and other growth in it due to the constant flow of Saltwater from the fridge pump. Since 2 year I buy just about 10lt of normal household (cleaning) vinegar. Very cheap about .70 cents per liter at grocery (Mercadona). It is not aggressive and helps to clean out the tubes.
I fill up the Aircon and Fridge lines and let it work over night. After that I flush out everything with fresh-water from the shore and let it in over winter. There is quite a lot of lime(calc)-dirt coming out with the vinegar. Sometimes I add a bit off antifreeze which is corroding protective as Nick mentioned.
Best regards and good preparation Ruedi WASABI A54-#55
Von: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> im Auftrag von Dean Gillies <stella@...>
Hi all,
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Re: Descaling the Seawater Lines
Mark McGovern
Nick,
The hose in the above picture lived most of it's life flushing salt water. I converted the boat to fresh water flush in 2018 about a year after buying the boat. It has been flushed exclusively with fresh water since that time. -- Mark McGovern SM #440 Cara Belfast, ME USA
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Re: Descaling the Seawater Lines
Hi Mark,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
As a matter of interest are you using sea water or fresh water for the flush? Kind regards Nick S/Y Amelia Leros AML 54-019
On 8 Nov 2021, at 18:59, Mark McGovern <mfmcgovern@...> wrote:
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Re: Descaling the Seawater Lines
Mark McGovern
Dean,
While I am usually an advocate of the "if it ain't broke don't fix it camp" I will advise you to preventatively address at least one of your heads if at all possible. Either by treating it to reduce scale or by just replacing the hoses outright. I say this because I had one head clog up within a few weeks of moving aboard full time earlier this year. Changing out the hoses out when they are filled with shit-water is just about one of the worst jobs I have ever done on a boat. Certainly the "shittiest." Taking the hint, I pre-emptively replaced the hoses on the other head soon thereafter. Here is what the cross-section of hose looked like on the head that I changed out BEFORE it stopped working:
 The 38mm ID hose had a true ID of maybe 20mm. And yes, that is a tampon shoved up inside the hose. The hose was so stiff from all the calcification that I had to cut the hose into several sections in order to remove it. Tampon did a great job absorbing the residual bleach water that was in the hose. For fun, I knocked some of the "chunks" out and dropped them into some cups of regular white vinegar, some "industrial strength" white vinegar, and several different dilutions of 85% Food Grade Phosphoric Acid that I have onboard. Phosphoric Acid is the active and main ingredient in products like Barnacle Buster/Sew Clean. It's also an ingredient in many soft drinks like Coke. The vinegars had no effect on the calcium whatsoever. The Phosphoric Acid dissolved the scale when diluted with water as much as 7:1, albeit slowly. A 5:1 dissolved large chunks quickly. Hope this helps! -- Mark McGovern SM #440 Cara Belfast, ME USA
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Re: Antifouling / Bottompaint
Scott SV Tengah
I used 5 gallons or around 19 liters for my A54. Three coats at waterline and front facing surfaces, two coats everywhere else.
From: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Slavko Despotovic <slavko@...>
Next spring it will be first time I will do AF on my Amel. What is quantity I would need to order? I checked with Trilux 33 that requires 3 layers and will need 14 litre of AF . It was calculated on supplier site. I would be grateful for
some first hand data regarding how many litres I need. -- Scott 2007 A54 #69 SV Tengah http://www.svtengah.com
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Re: Antifouling / Bottompaint
Next spring it will be first time I will do AF on my Amel. What is quantity I would need to order? I checked with Trilux 33 that requires 3 layers and will need 14 litre of AF . It was calculated on supplier site. I would be grateful for some first hand data regarding how many litres I need.
-- Slavko SM 2000 #279 Bonne Anse in Croatia
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Re: Descaling the Seawater Lines
Thanks Nick.
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Re: Descaling the Seawater Lines
Hi Dean,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
I just flush with fresh water and then use some antifreeze in the mix and let it sit. It has good anti corrosion properties. I do this for the engine and generator and the aircon and fridge cooling. The watermaker gets it’s sodium metabisulphate solution. If there are crustaceans in the cooling then clearly it will not dissolve the shells.. Nick S/Y Amelia Leros and hauling out tomorrow AML54-019
On 8 Nov 2021, at 16:42, Dean Gillies <stella@...> wrote:
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Descaling the Seawater Lines
Hi all,
I'm preparing Stella for in-water wintering in southern Spain and will be filling all seawater lines with freshwater as I've always done in the past for non-freezing winterisation. I'm wondering about the wisdom of treating the seawater lines with some kind of de-scaling treatment. I've previously cleaned my ONAN heat exchanger with dilute Hydrochloric Acid (Muriatic Acid) but that seems a bit over the top to flush right through the seawater systems. I know some folks like barnacle buster and such-like. I don't have any symptoms of poor water flow anywhere, so my gut feel says "if it ain't broke ...". Am I missing something? Cheers Dean SV STELLA A54-154
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Re: Climma Heat
Stefan, Regarding the Climma 9 Compact unit, I have the value of the Klixon at RS 121, but I am not sure what RS 121 stands for. I do not have the value of the fuse. Do you have the values, and/or can you confirm the RS 121 value?
On Mon, Nov 8, 2021 at 5:35 AM Stefan Jeukendrup <sjeukendrup@...> wrote:
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Re: Mooring cleat nut size
Hi Clive,
Interesting tools, I have not seen those before. However, I have ordered a 24mm Box Spanner from Amazon https://www.amazon.co.uk/KS-Tools-518-0879-CLASSIC-spanner/dp/B001NYV3IA Looks like it should do the trick. Hi Scott, Thankfully only one loose, and yes, the easy one. The stern cleats get most work of course when mooring stern-to the majority of the time. Best regards Dean SV STELLA A54-154
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Re: Antifouling / Bottompaint
Scott SV Tengah
Alan,
Did your Sea Barrier 3000 look decent last week? How long has it been since the last application? We are in French Polynesia now but are intending to head to NZ in either 1 or 2 years and we'll be needing a repaint at that point. I love my Micron 99 but a quick search revealed that Sea Barrier 3000 is FAR less expensive. https://wynnfraser.co.nz/product/950-AL-Sea-Barrier-SB-3000-Blue-Antifoul-10L -- Scott 2007 A54 #69 SV Tengah http://www.svtengah.com
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Re: Mooring cleat nut size
Scott SV Tengah
We re-bedded all of our cleats save for 2 that we could not really access.
24mm deep socket, extension and breaker bar got the job done. If it makes you feel better, the lazarette ones are, by far, the easiest to access. -- Scott 2007 A54 #69 SV Tengah http://www.svtengah.com
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Re: Climma Heat
Stefan Jeukendrup
Hi Alexei, To answer your specific questions: With 220V on the element you should see it cycling: When switching on the element should light up like a bread toaster element. Then depending on airflow and air temperature it reaches the temperature where the Klixon switches opens the circuit. Then the element and Klixon is cooled by the airflow and after a while the Klixon closes it's contact again, without click. 5A at 220V = 1100Watts seems OK for a Climma 9HE which is specified to provide 9000btu/hour for cooling and heating. Enclosed are pictures of: *Thermostat Texas Instruments Klixon *Overtemperature protection fuse Both are in series with the heating element but not necessarily in the exact locations I indicated before. As said before these devices are made in many different temperature ranges so be sure you replace with the exact same ones. Stefan Jeukendrup svMalaka Queen SM2k #348 @Newry, Northern Ireland Op 8 nov. 2021 04:56 schreef Alexey Mateosyan <alexey.mateosyan@...>:
Hi Stefan,
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main sheet winch service
Eloi Bamberg
Hello, I am in the process of servicing all my winches. I can't figure out how to remove the electrical main sheet winch of the mizzen mast. I can't get access to the nuts mainly on the starboard side. Does anybody have already done this?
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