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Re: Amel 55 - captain's seat
Hi Martin,
Your helm seat solution looks great. I particularly like it because you have chosen original Amel parts. With the 55 the helm seat is fitted on top of the extended cockpit port bench. So we can fit a seat pedestal but have to look for a low adjustable swivel or something. Do you know the exact model of your Besenzoni chair (the one used on the 50)? Thanks, Joan - Caconano A55#5
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Re: Forward head black water tank copper fitting replacement
Try a piece of rigging in the drill open the end a bit it will chew out anything.
Cheers
Courtney
Trippin
54#101
-----Original Message-----
From: Alan "Woody" Wood <woody@...> To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Sent: Mon, Nov 29, 2021 6:55 am Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Forward head black water tank copper fitting replacement Nice job Kevin.
I’m thinking of replacing mine soon, not because of corrosion but there seems to be a blockage in it. I presumed it was calcium and tried acid but to no avail. Next step would be to drill into it but would the original fitting have had an inverse U-bend inside the tank to prevent back pressure on the feed pipe when the tank is full? I’m not sure if I read that somewhere or just made it up in my head but it would make sense and I wouldn’t want to destroy it with the drill if there is.
Anyone know anything about this?
- Woody
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Re: 220 volt microwave replacement in SM
Patrick McAneny
We replaced our microwave with an inexpensive 110volt and run it off the inverter. We use the microwave all the time. Warm up left overs, warm precooked meals, microwave egg for our version of an egg McMuffin, warm up water for tea. We use it everyday.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
SvShenanigans Pat & Diane & SassyCat St Augustine, FL
On Nov 18, 2021, at 9:06 PM, Kevin Schmit <kevschmit64@...> wrote:
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Re: Seacock Replacement Ball Valve in Head
Steve Leeds
Hi Mark, Unfortunately, I don't remember specifically what tool I used to remove the gelcoat from the ball valve, but I do remember it came off easier than I would have expected. Use Blue Monster Teflon tape for all pipe joints, much better than the hardware store variety. Note, this valve is British straight thread, not normal pipe thread! You can get a Groco ball valve in British straight thread on line. They come with a grease fitting and Groco sells a special marine growth resistant grease for this purpose. Regards, Steve Leeds Sharki 121 Circumnavigator's Yacht Service, Inc.
On Saturday, November 27, 2021, 03:12:04 PM EST, Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:
Hi Everyone,
Next week I being the joyous task of changing out the seacock in the aft head.
For those who have done this, do you have any advice on the best way to remove the fiberglass overlay allowing the valve to be turned? Also, what product did you successfully use for thread sealant on the new valve,
Thanks in advance!
With best regards,
Mark
Skipper Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275 Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia www.creampuff.us
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Re: 24V Alternator
Kent, Since what you have is a repowered SM, I am not sure that I can help further without knowing more. I think it is likely that the issue is a loose connection, but could be an internal problem with the alternator, like a blown diode. I am not sure which 24v alternator you have, and that may be the reason for no excitement at high rpm. Maybe try to locate the small relay shown on the right side of the photo I included...if/when you find it, trace the wires to find the one that goes to the excite connection on your 24v alternator, assuming it has one and does not rely on internal excite.
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Re: 24V Alternator
Thanks Bill, No, even running at 2400rpm, no joy. I will chase the excite wire to it's origin (where does it usually originate?) and do a couple of tests of the alternator and regulator that I found in the regulator info. I'm in a little over my pay grade, but no electricians available anytime soon. -- Kent & Iris KRISTY
SM243
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Re: Amel 55 - captain's seat
Justin Maguire
Nice! Great work.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
And we love the seat on the 50… it super comfortable. I’m 6’1”
On Nov 29, 2021, at 04:50, Martin Birkhoff <mbirkhoff@...> wrote:
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Re: Amel 55 - captain's seat
Hi all,
The support of the seat on the photo is a cheap improvisation and will be exchanged for a more solid model, also of course adjustable in height. After a lot of fiddling we have fixed the original table with a single central table support (stainless steel) on the hatch of the engine compartment. The counter base of the screw connection consists of a larger aluminium plate below the sandwich of the engine compartment hatch. Table and table leg together are removable after loosening a clamping screw. We were able to continue using all elements of the original Amel 54 table: aft support, side extension and side extension support. To be honest we will replace the original table top with a lightweight top by opportunity as the whole construction is quite heavy. The hatch to the engine compartment can be opened with the table folded down, whereby the opening angle is somewhat smaller than originally: the table will hit the mast at a certain angle. Alternatively you can take away the table and the hatch will open as usual. Mago del Sur - 54#40
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Re: Forward head black water tank copper fitting replacement
Andrew & Kate Lamb
We have replaced both lower holding tank outlets and replaced with PVC tubes – both were straight copper tubes with very little inside the tanks – both very corroded and starting to leak. I drilled a hole through the visible part and twisted to remove, with some work with long-nose pliers afterwards, but this was relatively easy to do. We have replaced one of the inlet copper pipes – it was less corroded than the outlet pipes and was much harder to replace because there was much more copper pipe inside the holding tank and on the end inside the tank was attached a piece of 38mm hose that formed a loop into the tank. We had to remove the lower part of the copper tube first and then had to pass a grinding tool inside the pipe to cut the upper portion of pipe inside the holding tank. Once this was done we were able to retrieve the inner copper pipe piece and attached hose. This was replaced by a long straight piece of 40mm diameter PVC tubing it was not possible to add hosing on the inside again but I was able to pass the PVC tube close to the top of the inside of the holding tank.
Andrew
Ronpische SM472 Canet-en-Roussillon
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
<main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Alan "Woody" Wood via groups.io
Sent: 29 November 2021 12:56 To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Forward head black water tank copper fitting replacement
Nice job Kevin. I’m not sure if I read that somewhere or just made it up in my head but it would make sense and I wouldn’t want to destroy it with the drill if there is. Anyone know anything about this?
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Re: Forward head black water tank copper fitting replacement
Alan "Woody" Wood
Nice job Kevin. I’m not sure if I read that somewhere or just made it up in my head but it would make sense and I wouldn’t want to destroy it with the drill if there is. Anyone know anything about this?
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Re: Something for Electrical Engineers, Experts, and Wannabes like me
Maxwell's equations explain everything perfectly. Don't they??
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Re: Forward head black water tank copper fitting replacement
Michael Winand
Nice work, the aft head will be in the same condition. The copper is not a good thing for black water, urine and copper will react, eating away the copper. Michael Nebo sm251
On Sun, 28 Nov 2021, 10:57 pm Kevin Schmit, <kevschmit64@...> wrote: Good morning!
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Re: pressure hot water
Eloi, It could be many causes, but if there were a leak in the hot water line below the floor of the aft head, it might explain the noise and the low pressure. This snippet from my book will help you as you troubleshoot. Note there is one line off of the manifold in the engine room (I circled in red) supplying hot water Aft. Assuming there is no leaking visible under the floor, I think I would start by removing that hose and testing the flow. Note: Amel used some sort of adhesive at the connection of these hoses to the manifold and copper pipe. Heat will help removal (air gun, or hot water), and I suggest a sealant when reconnecting. Also see the last snippet for locating a potential clog in the hot water lines.   
On Sun, Nov 28, 2021 at 10:40 AM Eloi Bamberg <eloi.bamberg@...> wrote: Hello,
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Re: 24V Alternator
There might be a loose wire, probably a wire on the 12v/24v excite relay, or to or from that relay and the 24v alternator. Yours probably doesn't look exactly like this but has these components. Does the 24v alternator self-excite when you quickly throttle up to 1800 RPM? 
The external regulator is a Balmar MC 624
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pressure hot water
Eloi Bamberg
Hello,
The pressure of the hot water in my aft head is way to low (shower and sink). In the galley and the forward head there is no problem. When the water flows, I hear a sound as if there where some air in the tubes, but the flow is steady. I visually controlled the copper tubes and hoses in the engin room and under the aft bed. I couldn't find any leak. Any ideas / suggestions what could be the problem? Thanks Eloi SM2K 426 RedLion
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Re: 24V Alternator
The external regulator is a Balmar MC 624
-- Kent & Iris KRISTY
SM243
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24V Alternator
Happy Holidays, everyone.
We are in W Palm Beach, FL after a boisterous sail down from the Chesapeake. 15ft bar at StAugustine with 8-10 ft seas kept us from stopping there. On the way down the belt on our Yanmar (4JH4HTE) that powers the fresh water pump and 12V alternator broke. We had to remove the 24V alternator belt to replace the broken one. Everything seems back to normal, but since then the 24V alternator isn't producing any charge current. The belt is tight and not slipping, and all wiring at the alternator is snug. It's a Valeo 60 A 28 V only 2 years old with a Balmar external regulator. Any thoughts on how or if the belt issue could have caused this? Troubleshooting tips? Thanks on advance. -- Kent & Iris KRISTY
SM243
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Re: MDKAL starting problem
Bill Kinney
I agree that a bad solenoid is a possible cause of the symptoms described.
The solenoid used on most Onans is a "two coil" type. One powerful "start coil" that pulls the plunger to the "run" position, and a second one that holds it there so the "Start coil" can be turned off to prevent overheating. If the hold coil is not working properly, as soon as the "start coil" is de-energized the plunger will return to the stop position, and the engine stops. A number of things can cause this, including just dirt making it sticky (if it doesn't open all the way, it doesn't stay open) or a bad connection. These solenoids are available aftermarket at a small fraction of the price from Onan. When we had an Onan onboard, this was one of our spares. Bill Kinney SM160, Harmonie Brunswick, GA, USA
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Forward head black water tank copper fitting replacement
Good morning!
I got a chance to take care of an aging problem while conveniently tied to the dock this week. About 6 months ago I noticed a small pinhole leak in the copper hose fitting in the forward head while installing new head hoses. I temp repaired the pin hole problem using JB weld but I knew it was a ticking time bomb. Sure enough, last week I noted the sound of squirting water in and around the same copper fitting. Further investigation revealed another hole on the opposite side of the fitting. Enough was enough, I knew it was time to conduct a proper repair. I started by removing the old copper using a set of vice grips to twist out as much of it I could with brute force. 80% of it came out with the pliers. I then used my drill bit step tool to grind out the remaining copper, glue and gunk. I ground out just enough until I got clean fiberglass chips coming out of the hole. Goal was to get a clean, dry surface in which to get the West System epoxy to grab when installing the new fitting without enlarging the hole too much. The hole is 1.5” in diameter. Next issue was to determine what kind of fitting to use…? I thought about replacing the copper with bronze but I like using PVC fittings (above the water line only) with black water if possible. I found a 1.5” to 1.5” hose barb to hose barb fitting would fit nicely. I also like the idea that the head hose now has barbs to grab into while clamping compared to the old smooth copper fitting. I dry fit everything together first and then made some colloidal silica thickened epoxy (peanut butter consistency), epoxy coated both the hole and the new fitting mating surfaces and then tapped into place using a small hammer. I wanted to get the new fitting sunk in at least 3/4”. Lastly I taped the joint with some tape just to keep any epoxy from dripping out. After 24 hrs of cure, the repair is successful!     -- Kevin & Kristen Schmit KIANA SM #362 Currently in Brunswick, GA for the holiday
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MDKAL starting problem
william reynolds
Try manually holding the fuel solenoid engaged while cranking and hold until generator is at speed.
I have experienced this twice. Possibily low voltage to solenoid. Bill Cloudstreet
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