Date   

Re: Seacock Replacement Ball Valve in Head

Mark Erdos
 

Thank you for the help and suggestions.

 

This went pretty well. Like Mark’s, my aft tank ball-valve was not glassed in like the front. A massive set of channel locks is definitely the right tool for removal. With my feet on the shower bulkhead while sitting in the grate (sort of like a rowing position) – Bingo – came loose first try –but with a massive amount of pull.

 

The hoses didn’t present too much issue. I upgraded the original vinyl hose to Trident hoses about 5 years ago when I replaced the holding tank fittings. These are much better hoses to work with due to the flexibility and no need for heat. And, they do not permeate any order. I believe in the USA they are manufactured for Trident by a third party and maybe available elsewhere in the world under a different brand. https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|2243574|2243583&id=1845631

 

I am taking this opportunity now to replace the base of the head. I had to do this in the forward head after the original base cracked resulting in a wobbly head – not good.  So, I figured the aft is about due for the same upgrade. The crack engineers at Jabsco redesigned the toilet base, discontinued the old model, but kept the same part number. They claim on their site the holes on the new base match the old model. This is a lie.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Steve Leeds via groups.io
Sent: Monday, November 29, 2021 6:12 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Seacock Replacement Ball Valve in Head

 

Hi Mark,

Unfortunately, I don't remember specifically what tool I used to remove the gelcoat from the ball valve, but I do remember it came off easier than I would have expected.  Use Blue Monster Teflon tape for all pipe joints, much better than the hardware store variety.  Note, this valve is British straight thread, not normal pipe thread!  You can get a Groco ball valve in British straight thread on line.  They come with a grease fitting and Groco sells a special marine growth resistant grease for this purpose.

 

Regards,

Steve Leeds

Sharki 121

Circumnavigator's Yacht Service, Inc.

 

On Saturday, November 27, 2021, 03:12:04 PM EST, Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:

 

 

Hi Everyone,

 

Next week I being the joyous task of changing out the seacock in the aft head.

 

For those who have done this, do you have any advice on the best way to remove the fiberglass overlay allowing the valve to be turned? Also, what product did you successfully use for thread sealant on the new valve,

 

Thanks in advance!

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 


Re: Electric Headsail Furler Replacements for Amel and Bamar MEJ & EJF

VLADIMIR SONSEV
 

I have a set of spare parts for original furler. Call or write me if you need one.
I am a previous owner of Amel Supper Maramu " Life is Good"
Vladimir. 202-258-1916.


On Wed, Dec 1, 2021, 2:21 PM Mark & Debbie Mueller <brass.ring@...> wrote:

We had to replace the Bamar EJF-1 about 4 weeks ago that was installed approximately 3 ½ years ago.  Water intrusion seemed to have incurred at an unknown location causing what appeared to be electrolytic corrosion resulting in a frozen motor and brake system and a small hole corroded through the aluminum housing at the bottom of the unit adjacent the stainless steel mounting plate.  The only alternative was to replace the furler.

 

Paul at Bamar USA informed me, reference the attached photo, that the wire bundle from the furler to the boat should be as straight as possible and definitely without the S bend shown in the photograph.  There is no interior drain tube incorporated in the wiring bundle which is enclosed in the black protective tube.  The tube itself acts as a drain routing any water into the forward sail locker if there is any condensation or other moisture accumulation in the furler.  Paul suspected there had been condensation which built up inside the furler while I suspected a failure of the furler itself.

 

When I asked Paul why the installer incorrectly ran the wire he informed me emphatically that it was not the installer’s fault that nowhere in the instructions was there a mention of running the wiring in as straight a manner and directly as possible to the tube leading below deck.  On the new installation the tube was shortened dramatically and although the wire was not run straight due to the room available under the furler it was looped such that the wire run remained below the level of the furler allowing drainage to occur.

 

I am unclear as to what preventative maintenance if any could be performed to prevent water incursion.  However, if you have an EJF-1 installed it could be prudent to revise the wiring run to at least provide a drain should water intrusion occur.  Paul was very helpful getting the new unit built and shipped from Italy quickly.  There was a significant delay with DHL and I would recommend never using them in the future –for ANYTHING.  This was a very expensive 3 ½ year lifetime with this piece of equipment.


--
Mark Mueller
former Brass Ring  A54


Re: Amel 55 - captain's seat

Martin Birkhoff
 

Hi Joan, hi Paolo,

the model is Besonzoni Pilot Seat P 246 Amel (meaning special width)

fabric: silvetek graphite

Logo: Amel

If you look to the catalogue you will not find exactly this helm seat. It is a variation of the Helm Seat P 246 Smile. The armrests of the P 246 Amel have been positioned a little further out by means of some spacers.

We ordered ist via info@...

 

The table stand and the table is permanently in place behind the seat and the table top is resting vertical against it. The stand is mounted off center in respect of the table top. Folded up, the table top is in the same position as originally,

pic 1 shows the mounting holes of the original chair (brownish spots)
pic 2 the table is removed, you can sea the inox spacers between backrest and armrests 
pic 3 shows the offset from the center line 
pic 4 table mounted. It was a millimeter job to get a good position of the helm seat and to allow the engine rooms hatch to move without shaving the backrest  

Regards

Martin
Mago del Sur - 54#40

currently Marina di Ragusa, Sicily

 


Re: Electric Headsail Furler Replacements for Amel and Bamar MEJ & EJF

Mark & Debbie Mueller
 

We had to replace the Bamar EJF-1 about 4 weeks ago that was installed approximately 3 ½ years ago.  Water intrusion seemed to have incurred at an unknown location causing what appeared to be electrolytic corrosion resulting in a frozen motor and brake system and a small hole corroded through the aluminum housing at the bottom of the unit adjacent the stainless steel mounting plate.  The only alternative was to replace the furler.

 

Paul at Bamar USA informed me, reference the attached photo, that the wire bundle from the furler to the boat should be as straight as possible and definitely without the S bend shown in the photograph.  There is no interior drain tube incorporated in the wiring bundle which is enclosed in the black protective tube.  The tube itself acts as a drain routing any water into the forward sail locker if there is any condensation or other moisture accumulation in the furler.  Paul suspected there had been condensation which built up inside the furler while I suspected a failure of the furler itself.

 

When I asked Paul why the installer incorrectly ran the wire he informed me emphatically that it was not the installer’s fault that nowhere in the instructions was there a mention of running the wiring in as straight a manner and directly as possible to the tube leading below deck.  On the new installation the tube was shortened dramatically and although the wire was not run straight due to the room available under the furler it was looped such that the wire run remained below the level of the furler allowing drainage to occur.

 

I am unclear as to what preventative maintenance if any could be performed to prevent water incursion.  However, if you have an EJF-1 installed it could be prudent to revise the wiring run to at least provide a drain should water intrusion occur.  Paul was very helpful getting the new unit built and shipped from Italy quickly.  There was a significant delay with DHL and I would recommend never using them in the future –for ANYTHING.  This was a very expensive 3 ½ year lifetime with this piece of equipment.


--
Mark Mueller
former Brass Ring  A54


Re: Forward head black water tank copper fitting replacement

 

Christian,

There are two brass/bronze fittings on the bottom of the black water tank, input and output. The output referred to in this thread does not have anything inside the tank that is attached to it. The input does have either a hose or the bronze pipe which is connected to the input and runs inside the tank to almost the top of the inside of the tank. The purpose of this is if the input is opened or loosened, you will not drain the entire contents.

Bill


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar

On Tue, Nov 30, 2021 at 6:32 PM Christian Sloane <csloane@...> wrote:
Hello there, another follow up question from a newbie owner…
what did you put inside on the other end of the 1.5” to 1.5” hose barb to hose barb fitting?  
Did you use hose, or a section of PVC straight up, like a stand pipe to replace the function of the copper pipe you removed?
Our boat is same vintage, and I suspect I will have to do this at some point…
thanks in advance!

Christian and Jane
Escapades, SM #350
San Diego and Fort Lauderdale




On Nov 29, 2021, at 3:55 AM, Alan Woody Wood <woody@...> wrote:

Nice job Kevin.

I’m thinking of replacing mine soon, not because of corrosion but there seems to be a blockage in it. I presumed it was calcium and tried acid but to no avail. Next step would be to drill into it but would the original fitting have had an inverse U-bend inside the tank to prevent back pressure on the feed pipe when the tank is full?

I’m not sure if I read that somewhere or just made it up in my head but it would make sense and I wouldn’t want to destroy it with the drill if there is. 

Anyone know anything about this?

- Woody



Re: Main and outhaul motors and spare halyard-- correction , its 4 Am

Eric Freedman <kimberlite@...>
 

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Eric Freedman
Sent: Wednesday, December 1, 2021 2:46 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Main and outhaul motors and spare halyard

 

Hi,

On our recent passage from NY to St Maarten our outhaul motor got wet,

 

When I went to my spares, I had a brand-new Leroy Sommer motor . Unfortunately, it was too small in diameter.

Are the outhaul and main furling motors the same size ?

Secondly, who is the current supplier or substitute for this motor?

 

Fyi,

It took me over 12 hours, but I was able to replace some wires and put shellac on the wires in the rotor Thank you Amel for the hair dryer. I then polished the commutator. I was also fortunate to have spare brushes from when I bought the boat new. I also installed a new gearbox. It works great. Unfortunately, this repair is not to be done on deck. I had to cut the wire to remove the assembly. I soldered the connection and used Scotch Cote on the connections and adhesive heat shrink tubing on both wires, I then put Scotch Cote over the heat shrink. If you don’t have this on board you might consider buying it. My electrician friends use it to cover final connections on underground cables, I kind of looks like shellac.

Then heat shrink over the 2 wires, and then self-amalgamating tape over the whole connection.

When I have time here in St Maarten, I will replace the entire wire. The wires are soldered to the outer surface of the brush holders in the motor.  The motor has red and black wires, and my added wire is USA has white and black, When I connected my added piece of wire to the original Amel wire I connected the black to the brown and the white to the blue at the mast side and at the motor side the red to the black and the black to the white . However, the switch worked backwards.

No big deal just switched the leads at the switch—I just found it interesting.

 

Another Subject

When I ordered Kimberlite, I had them add a spinnaker halyard long enough to reach the primary winch via a block forward.

Handy for the boatswain’s chair.

When Kimberlite was delivered the halyard ends were flipped aft of the spreader and attached to the chain plate.

I am seeing wear at the area of the halyard where it contacts the top rail.  And at the spreader for the mouse halyard. I had also replaced the mouse halyard with Vectran. Olivier said that the sheeves at the mast are strong enough to use for a halyard.

It comes in handy.  To prevent further problems with my new halyards, I would like to connect them to something forward of the mast.

Possibly some gadget attached to the forward chain plate but slightly forward of that.

Yes, I know I could have changed the halyard end for end, but I would like to have a permanent solution

What do you think?

Also,

I am changing all the running rigging. What the heck do I do with all that line?

 

Fair Winds

ERIC

Kimberlite Amel SM 376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Steve Leeds via groups.io
Sent: Monday, November 29, 2021 10:12 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Seacock Replacement Ball Valve in Head

 

Hi Mark,

Unfortunately, I don't remember specifically what tool I used to remove the gelcoat from the ball valve, but I do remember it came off easier than I would have expected.  Use Blue Monster Teflon tape for all pipe joints, much better than the hardware store variety.  Note, this valve is British straight thread, not normal pipe thread!  You can get a Groco ball valve in British straight thread on line.  They come with a grease fitting and Groco sells a special marine growth resistant grease for this purpose.

 

Regards,

Steve Leeds

Sharki 121

Circumnavigator's Yacht Service, Inc.

 

On Saturday, November 27, 2021, 03:12:04 PM EST, Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:

 

 

Hi Everyone,

 

Next week I being the joyous task of changing out the seacock in the aft head.

 

For those who have done this, do you have any advice on the best way to remove the fiberglass overlay allowing the valve to be turned? Also, what product did you successfully use for thread sealant on the new valve,

 

Thanks in advance!

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 


Main and outhaul motors and spare halyard

Eric Freedman <kimberlite@...>
 

Hi,

On our recent passage from NY to St Maarten our outhaul motor got wet,

 

When I went to my spares, I had a brand-new Leroy Sommer motor . Unfortunately, it was too small in diameter.

Are the outhaul and main furling motors the same size ?

Secondly, who is the current supplier or substitute for this motor?

 

Fyi,

It took me over 12 hours, but I was able to replace some wires and put shellac on the wires in the rotor Thank you Amel for the hair dryer. I then polished the commutator. I was also fortunate to have spare brushes from when I bought the boat new. I also installed a new gearbox. It works great. Unfortunately, this repair is not to be done on deck. I had to cut the wire to remove the assembly. I soldered the connection and used Scotch Cote on the connections and adhesive heat shrink tubing on both wires, I then put Scotch Cote over the heat shrink. If you don’t have this on board you might consider buying it. My electrician friends use it to cover final connections on underground cables, I kind of looks like shellac.

Then heat shrink over the 2 wires, and then self-amalgamating tape over the whole connection.

When I have time here in St Maarten, I will replace the entire wire. The wires are soldered to the outer surface of the brush holders in the motor.  The motor has red and black wires, and my added wire is USA has white and black, When I connected my added piece of wire to the original Amel wire I connected the red to the brown and the white to the blue. However, the switch worked backwards.

No big deal just switched the leads at the switch—I just found it interesting.

 

Another Subject

When I ordered Kimberlite, I had them add a spinnaker halyard long enough to reach the primary winch via a block forward.

Handy for the boatswain’s chair.

When Kimberlite was delivered the halyard ends were flipped aft of the spreader and attached to the chain plate.

I am seeing wear at the area of the halyard where it contacts the top rail.  And at the spreader for the mouse halyard. I had also replaced the mouse halyard with Vectran. Olivier said that the sheeves at the mast are strong enough to use for a halyard.

It comes in handy.  To prevent further problems with my new halyards, I would like to connect them to something forward of the mast.

Possibly some gadget attached to the forward chain plate but slightly forward of that.

Yes, I know I could have changed the halyard end for end, but I would like to have a permanent solution

What do you think?

Also,

I am changing all the running rigging. What the heck do I do with all that line?

 

Fair Winds

ERIC

Kimberlite Amel SM 376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Steve Leeds via groups.io
Sent: Monday, November 29, 2021 10:12 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Seacock Replacement Ball Valve in Head

 

Hi Mark,

Unfortunately, I don't remember specifically what tool I used to remove the gelcoat from the ball valve, but I do remember it came off easier than I would have expected.  Use Blue Monster Teflon tape for all pipe joints, much better than the hardware store variety.  Note, this valve is British straight thread, not normal pipe thread!  You can get a Groco ball valve in British straight thread on line.  They come with a grease fitting and Groco sells a special marine growth resistant grease for this purpose.

 

Regards,

Steve Leeds

Sharki 121

Circumnavigator's Yacht Service, Inc.

 

On Saturday, November 27, 2021, 03:12:04 PM EST, Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:

 

 

Hi Everyone,

 

Next week I being the joyous task of changing out the seacock in the aft head.

 

For those who have done this, do you have any advice on the best way to remove the fiberglass overlay allowing the valve to be turned? Also, what product did you successfully use for thread sealant on the new valve,

 

Thanks in advance!

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 


Re: Forward head black water tank copper fitting replacement

Christian Sloane
 

Hello there, another follow up question from a newbie owner…
what did you put inside on the other end of the 1.5” to 1.5” hose barb to hose barb fitting?  
Did you use hose, or a section of PVC straight up, like a stand pipe to replace the function of the copper pipe you removed?
Our boat is same vintage, and I suspect I will have to do this at some point…
thanks in advance!

Christian and Jane
Escapades, SM #350
San Diego and Fort Lauderdale




On Nov 29, 2021, at 3:55 AM, Alan Woody Wood <woody@...> wrote:

Nice job Kevin.

I’m thinking of replacing mine soon, not because of corrosion but there seems to be a blockage in it. I presumed it was calcium and tried acid but to no avail. Next step would be to drill into it but would the original fitting have had an inverse U-bend inside the tank to prevent back pressure on the feed pipe when the tank is full?

I’m not sure if I read that somewhere or just made it up in my head but it would make sense and I wouldn’t want to destroy it with the drill if there is. 

Anyone know anything about this?

- Woody



Re: MDKAL starting problem

 

I read that in an earlier post. I do not believe any of the Onan models have a fuel cut-off solenoid. I believe most of them have a throttle actuator governor which when all the way closed acts as a fuel cut-off. This is the part I speak of for the MDKAV, but it varies from model to model.
image.png
image.png

Older Onans looked like this:
image.png


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar

On Tue, Nov 30, 2021 at 3:53 PM rossirossix4 <rossidesigngroup@...> wrote:
Does anyone have the part number for the MDKAV fuel solenoid?  I assume it is the same as the MDKAL but can't locate it in the pdf of my parts manual.  I'm thinking a  spare belongs in my kit.  Thanking you in advance.

Bob   KAIMI SM429


Re: 24V Alternator

Richard Dallett
 

Kent and Iris, I am a new Amel owner and am on a mooring off the Palm Beach Sail Club.  I live nearby and have a car.  Let me know if I can help.

 

Richard Dallett

A54 68

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of karkauai via groups.io
Sent: Sunday, November 28, 2021 11:00 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] 24V Alternator

 

Happy Holidays, everyone.
We are in W Palm Beach, FL after a boisterous sail down from the Chesapeake.  15ft bar at StAugustine with 8-10 ft seas kept us from stopping there.

On the way down the belt on our Yanmar (4JH4HTE) that powers the fresh water pump and 12V alternator broke. We had to remove the 24V alternator belt to replace the broken one. Everything seems back to normal, but since then the 24V alternator isn't producing any charge current. The belt is tight and not slipping, and all wiring at the alternator is snug.  It's a Valeo 60 A 28 V only 2 years old with a Balmar  external regulator.

Any thoughts on how or if the belt issue could have caused this?  Troubleshooting tips?

Thanks on advance.
--
Kent & Iris

KRISTY

SM243


Re: MDKAL starting problem

Eric Freedman <kimberlite@...>
 

Bob,

Fuel solenoid or fuel pump?

Fair Winds

ERIC

Kimberlite Amel SM 376’

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of rossirossix4
Sent: Tuesday, November 30, 2021 3:54 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] MDKAL starting problem

 

Does anyone have the part number for the MDKAV fuel solenoid?  I assume it is the same as the MDKAL but can't locate it in the pdf of my parts manual.  I'm thinking a  spare belongs in my kit.  Thanking you in advance.

Bob   KAIMI SM429


Re: MDKAL starting problem

rossirossix4
 

Does anyone have the part number for the MDKAV fuel solenoid?  I assume it is the same as the MDKAL but can't locate it in the pdf of my parts manual.  I'm thinking a  spare belongs in my kit.  Thanking you in advance.

Bob   KAIMI SM429


Electric Headsail Furler Replacements for Amel and Bamar MEJ & EJF

 

All,

Amel-designed Genoa Electric Furler:
As you may be aware there are no Amel-designed Genoa furlers available and there are only a few of the parts available from the Swiss guy who manufactured these for Amel. If you want a part now, or any time in the future, you should contact him immediately. When they are gone, they are gone. I suggest that at the very least you purchase the Bronze Spur Gear and Worm Gear, with possibly the bearings and seals. French only:  Pierangelo VIGNANDO <vikasa.vignando@...+41 79 447 21 42. Tell him I gave you his contact information.
Bronze and Worm Gear.jpg

BAMAR:
Regarding BAMAR MEJ furlers, you may be aware that BAMAR discontinued these belt-driven MEJ furlers and now sells the EJF, a gear-drive furler. BAMAR offered a reduced price to upgrade the MEJ to the EJF, which a number Amel 54 owners took advantage of. Regrettably, I am aware of two failures of the newer EJF furlers due to water intrusion. Water intrusion was a big issue with the MEJ.

Best Alternative today - FACNOR (same as the ProFurl on Amel 50 & 60) & Discount available to you
Some of you are aware of my review of an Amel 50 here. One of the things I really liked with the Amel 50 was the Profurl headsail furlers. I really liked them. Profurl and FACNOR have exactly the same electric headsail furlers. They are owned by the same company. These furlers are waterproof, among other things. More, click here
Photo of a FACNOR electric furler installed on an Amel 54.
image.png

Cost, Discounts, & Sharing with you:
My clients know that I try to negotiate discounts for them for Amel OEM quality replacements. I have just completed negotiations with FACNOR for a "Preferred Vendor" discount on these remarkable furlers regardless of where you have them installed in the world. I am notifying my clients of this, and if any Amel owner is interested in taking advantage of the discount I negotiated, please email me at brouse@... for more information because I would like to share this with you. 

I am not affiliated with FACNOR, or any other Preferred Vendor. I never accept and always refuse any commission, reward, or fee of any sort from anyone to promote their products. 

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


Re: Amel 55 - captain's seat

PAOLO CUNEO
 

Well done Martin.
I am trying to visually adapt your 54 cockpit arrangement to my SM but probably is feasible. It is not entirely clear to me from the picture how you manage the table stand and the table itself when not in use. Is the stand permanently in place behind
the seat and the table top resting vertical against it? And, is the stand mounted off center in respect of the table top?
Many thanks
Paolo Cuneo
SM 454 Whisper


Inviato da iPad

--
Paolo Cuneo
SM 454 Whisper


Re: Amel 55 - captain's seat

Joan Blaas
 

Hi Martin,

Your helm seat solution looks great. I particularly like it because you have chosen original Amel parts. 

With the 55 the helm seat is fitted on top of the extended cockpit port bench. So we can fit a seat pedestal but have to look for a low adjustable swivel or something.

Do you know the exact model of your Besenzoni chair (the one used on the 50)?

Thanks,

Joan - Caconano
A55#5


Re: Forward head black water tank copper fitting replacement

Courtney Gorman
 

Try a piece of rigging in the drill open the end a bit it will chew out anything.  
Cheers
Courtney
Trippin
54#101


-----Original Message-----
From: Alan "Woody" Wood <woody@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Sent: Mon, Nov 29, 2021 6:55 am
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Forward head black water tank copper fitting replacement

Nice job Kevin.

I’m thinking of replacing mine soon, not because of corrosion but there seems to be a blockage in it. I presumed it was calcium and tried acid but to no avail. Next step would be to drill into it but would the original fitting have had an inverse U-bend inside the tank to prevent back pressure on the feed pipe when the tank is full?
I’m not sure if I read that somewhere or just made it up in my head but it would make sense and I wouldn’t want to destroy it with the drill if there is. 
Anyone know anything about this?

- Woody


Re: 220 volt microwave replacement in SM

Patrick McAneny
 

We replaced our microwave with an inexpensive 110volt and run it off the inverter. We use the microwave all the time. Warm up left overs, warm precooked meals, microwave egg for our version of an egg McMuffin, warm up water for tea. We use it everyday. 

SvShenanigans
Pat & Diane
& SassyCat 
St Augustine, FL



On Nov 18, 2021, at 9:06 PM, Kevin Schmit <kevschmit64@...> wrote:

I’m looking to purchase a new 220 volt microwave that fits in our SM microwave cabinet (approx 23”x13.5”x15”). Has anyone replaced theirs here in the USA and if so which model fits in the space without too much customization?
--
Kevin & Kristen Schmit
KIANA
SM #362
Currently in Brunswick, GA


Re: Seacock Replacement Ball Valve in Head

Steve Leeds
 

Hi Mark,
Unfortunately, I don't remember specifically what tool I used to remove the gelcoat from the ball valve, but I do remember it came off easier than I would have expected.  Use Blue Monster Teflon tape for all pipe joints, much better than the hardware store variety.  Note, this valve is British straight thread, not normal pipe thread!  You can get a Groco ball valve in British straight thread on line.  They come with a grease fitting and Groco sells a special marine growth resistant grease for this purpose.

Regards,
Steve Leeds
Sharki 121
Circumnavigator's Yacht Service, Inc.

On Saturday, November 27, 2021, 03:12:04 PM EST, Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:


Hi Everyone,

 

Next week I being the joyous task of changing out the seacock in the aft head.

 

For those who have done this, do you have any advice on the best way to remove the fiberglass overlay allowing the valve to be turned? Also, what product did you successfully use for thread sealant on the new valve,

 

Thanks in advance!

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 


Re: 24V Alternator

 

Kent,

Since what you have is a repowered SM, I am not sure that I can help further without knowing more. I think it is likely that the issue is a loose connection, but could be an internal problem with the alternator, like a blown diode. I am not sure which 24v alternator you have, and that may be the reason for no excitement at high rpm. 

Maybe try to locate the small relay shown on the right side of the photo I included...if/when you find it, trace the wires to find the one that goes to the excite connection on your 24v alternator, assuming it has one and does not rely on internal excite. 

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar

On Mon, Nov 29, 2021 at 8:40 AM karkauai via groups.io <karkauai=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Thanks Bill,
No, even running at 2400rpm, no joy.

I will chase the excite wire to it's origin (where does it usually originate?) and do a couple of tests of the alternator and regulator that I found in the regulator info.  I'm in a little over my pay grade, but no electricians available anytime soon.


--
Kent & Iris
KRISTY
SM243


Re: 24V Alternator

karkauai
 

Thanks Bill,
No, even running at 2400rpm, no joy.

I will chase the excite wire to it's origin (where does it usually originate?) and do a couple of tests of the alternator and regulator that I found in the regulator info.  I'm in a little over my pay grade, but no electricians available anytime soon.


--
Kent & Iris
KRISTY
SM243

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