Date   

Re: Dinghy Sizing

 

Mohammad, 

Thanks for that. The A54 has a lot more room than the SM...Richie Whyte was asking about a SM.

Bill

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar

On Mon, Dec 13, 2021 at 10:47 AM Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...> wrote:

Hi Bill;

 

We did change out our tender to a 3.4 meter HighField last season and it does fit on the aft deck without interfering with the Mizzen Traveler. The end of the pontoons do project a bit into the cockpit from the sides of the Mizzen. Anything shorter is a challenge to mount on the Davits.

 

Happy Sailing;

 

 

Mohammad and Aty

B&B Kokomo

AMEL 54 #099

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of CW Bill Rouse via groups.io
Sent: Monday, December 13, 2021 8:18 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Dinghy Sizing

 

A 3.1 or up to 3.2 will stow on the aft deck like this on a SM:

I believe that up to 2.6 with most dinghies you can carry them on the aft deck of a SM like this.



CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School

Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 

 

View My Training Calendar

 

On Mon, Dec 13, 2021 at 9:34 AM Courtney Gorman via groups.io <Itsfun1=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:

Richie,

Your main concern with a dingy is one the size of the engine, how many people and stuff you want to carry, and how are you going to use it, ie short trips only in calm water for coastal cruising of for  longer range.  My opinion is buy as big as you have room for.  With a 15 hp 2 stroke or a 20 hp 4 stroke I would definitely get the CL310 it will store sidways on the aft cabin partially blocking the access to the stern on one side but I feel that you can live with.

Otherwise get the smaller and stow it longways on the aft cabin.

CHeers

Courtney

Trippin

-----Original Message-----
From: Richie Whyte <richiewhyte@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Sent: Mon, Dec 13, 2021 10:22 am
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Dinghy Sizing

I am considering purchasing a Highfield Classic Hypalon and I’m debating the merits of CL290 vs CL310 with my co owner. We are not on our boat at the moment to eyeball fitting etc. The debate centres around convenience to store the dinghy either up front or on the aft cabin roof. Ease of getting it on or off our SM2K and carrying capacity.

If any of you have either of these tenders I would be very grateful if you’d let me know if you are happy with it and whether you would change the size if you were to purchase another one.

Many thanks 

Richie


Achill, Ireland
’Why Knot’, SM2K#261 on the hard in Leros, Greece


Re: Aft hatch wind scoop

rossirossix4
 
Edited

Hi Ian,
We/ve never had luck on natural ventilation in the aft stateroom.  The exception is when you are at a dock and the hatch is open and pointed at the wind.  One of the problems is that the cockpit dodger and any bimini also blocks air flow to that area.

There is a theory that air from the forward hatches can push through the boat and the passageway and exhaust through the rear hatch but in practice this really doesn't work. Even with the companionway door closed the airflow is not enough and the passageway (with the pilot berth) usually heats up more than other areas of the boat and warms that air.  This has been true of both our Santorin and our SM.

Some owners have installed 2 computer sized fans in the porthole from the cockpit.  In our Santorin we simply placed a 12V Endless Breeze fan outside the hatch.

In our aft cabin of our SM we have had very good performance from a Caframo Sirocco fan.  It has 3 speeds and at 24V its draw is: 0.06 amps for 90cfm, 0.11 amps for 114 cfm and  0.17 Amps for 140 cfm.  It is easy to run a wire under the wood trim from the 24V supply to the rear cabin lights. The fan is fully gimbaled so it can be flipped if you want to use it to exhaust air or angled to direct air to a specific area in the rear stateroom.  It is very quiet and almost undetectable at its lowest speed..  What is most unique is that if mounted correctly (see link to photos) it can be flipped up (held by sturdy detents, not friction) to operating positions or flipped down flush with the bulkhead and completely out of the way.  The fit is perfect for the SM and it is possible that you could even fit 2 although 1 has been adequate for us in the tropics where even at the dock we have not needed AC.   The fan is fairly large and can move a great deal of air but we almost always use it on the low setting.  It also has a timer so you can set it for 2,4,6 hours or continuous.  We don't know what we would do without it.  It also clears security bars if you have them--ours are usually removed for safety reasons. We also have 2 Hella fans on the rear bulkhead but do not use them very much.   Fan:  http://www.caframolifestylesolutions.com/product/marine/sirocco-ii-draft/  Photos of it installed are here and show how it is stowed under the hatch--  https://photos.app.goo.gl/DMXzPz9SzpwEXZW19

Bob and Suzanne   KAIMI SM429


Re: Dinghy Sizing

VICTOR MOLERO
 

Hello Richie.
I bought a Highfield 290 dinghy last July. In September I already had bubbles in the paint of the hull. If you (or anyone) are interested in the response of Highfield when I sent the pictures and asked for a solution (that has not arrived yet), please let me know and I will describe it to you in a private conversation, since I know that this group does not allow for negative observations about brands or providers. 
Victor 
SM314 Alendoy


Re: SM Batteries

Marty Crighton
 

Nick,
When we were looking for solar panels in Grenada two months ago we ran into a Solar installation specialist who was experimenting with this idea you on his boat. He said he had built a hybrid bank and been using it on his boat for over 3 months. His bank was 12 volts. He admitted 3 months wasn't long enough to project long term reliability, but said he was realizing all the traits you lay out and was confident it was going to be an installation option he was going to be able to recommend to customers once he had enough data.  
Respectfully,
Marty

SV Nada, SM327
Puerto Rico


On Mon, Dec 13, 2021, 12:25 Nick Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
I am going to throw this one out there to the community. it is just an idea...

Has anyone tried a hybrid AGM and Lithium battery bank?

I am thinking it to be 75% AGM and 25% Lithium. All connected together as one bank….I know…..just hear me out…..it is unorthodox and only an idea….up for debate...

Both battery types can be charged at  14v….then when the charge source is turned off

AGM's will drop to about 13.2v, immediately. This is the float voltage for AGM’s.

Lithium will also drop to 13.2v but maintain that voltage until say 20% capacity remains. This is part of the Lithium chemistry.

In a typical cycle, the AGM’s will be kept at float by the Lithium. So only the Lithium part will be used, but there will still be the AGM that can start to share the load after the Lithium bank has been 80% depleted. So in effect one is cycling only the Lithium part…given that Lithium can be cycled many more times than AGM’s this should be cost effective.

In Practice… imagine 8 AGM batteries of 12v 100AH  giving 400AH at 24v.  Normally this would be a typical bank. Cycle down to 75% each night. Thus consuming 100A. 

Now add two Lithiums of also 100AH 12v giving 100AH at 24v. You now have a 500AH bank….

If you still use 100A then the first 80 will come from the Lithiums or until their voltage drops below 13.2v and then the remaining demand will be supplied from the whole bank. in fact as the lithium voltage drops the AGM’s will take over and start to prop up the Lithiums…so that they do not get depleted too low.

When it comes to charging the Lithiums are more efficient and will accept fast charge, and the AGM’s will trickle full all day if there is sufficient solar….

The end result is that for the cost of only two Lithiums you have in effect a very long lasting bank. The AGM’s only cycle a few percent each day but on occasion they can be as required. They are there as reserve and barely cycle thus will last for a long time maybe more than a decade…

If one was to do this one would have to be very careful connecting the Lithiums… the AGM bank would need to be charged to float 13.2v. The Lithiums would need to be discharged to the same voltage 13.2v so when you connect them together there is no current flow between the batteries. It would be dangerous to connect them with say Lithiums at 13.8v and the AGM’s at 12.5v as it would arc at the moment of contact.

Now shout me down and tell my why this is not a good idea….

Remember the objective is to get the best AH for the lowest cost….

Merry Christmas

Nick

S/Y Amelia
AML 54-019

Stored ashore in Leros






On 12 Dec 2021, at 22:17, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Kent, Doesn't this explain the furling and outhaul motors not working properly?

Batteries are like anchors, there are lots of opinions and most opinions are based on limited comparative experience.

This is what I tell my clients and it is totally my opinion:
The best house battery buy is the basic DEKA Marine Master Deep Cycle DC31DT battery which will last 2 years, maybe 3. At $107 each (Lowes in the US) it seems like a bargain regardless of which battery you compare it to. Sure there are better batteries that will last longer, but none will cost you less per month. There are so many disappointments that have been reported by Amel owners, it is hard to choose something else. But when you buy these DEKAs and they fail in 2 years, remember that was the expectation. 

And don't forget about the DEKA 12-Volt 1000-Amp Marine Start Battery.

This is what 8 DC31DT batteries and 1 DEKA 12-Volt 1000-Amp Marine Start Battery will cost you at Lowes. 

Don't forget to check the water in these batteries. They will not last if you allow them to charge and discharge with low water.

<67774066-f4dd-4bf7-9da3-bba60d865215.png>




CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
  
View My Training Calendar

On Sun, Dec 12, 2021 at 11:36 AM karkauai via groups.io <karkauai=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Here I am again, singing the same tune...
In 2018 I bought 8 Crown "deep cycle" group 31s. They were great for about a year, then slowly began to deteriorate.  With 520 AHr and fully solar charged by early afternoon, when new I was waking up to 25.4-25.6v after about 50AHr use overnight.  This slowly deteriorated until I was running the generator before bed to avoid dropping voltage below 24.7.  I nursed them along until July 21 and bought 8 NAPA (Penn)105 AHr group 31s.  They have already failed, after working great initially, in just 5 months.

I charge at 28.5v Abs, 27v Float, and equalize at 31v (on recommendation of Crown engineer).  I have a 105A Magnum  charger/inverter, and 850W solar in 3 pairs, each pair with it's own Victron MPPP controller, and a 60 A alternator using a Balmar external regulator.

My first 3 sets of similar hybrid batteries didn't start to deteriorate until they were 30-36 months old.  This started after I installed solar.  Watching the voltages and solar output closely shows them acting as they are set to act.  Measuring amperage at the primary 25v cable from battery studs to switch, I don't find any excess current flowing with switches on or off.  All batteries measure within 0.1v after disconnecting for 6 hours. All cells have SG 1.019 +/- .001, which does not improve after 6 hrs equalizing at 31v.  All read within .2v of each other after load testing, which shows them barely in the "fair" range.  It doesn't seem to be a matter of one bad battery or cell, or unequal charging...they are all deteriorating at the same rate.

Soooo...
I need new batteries again, and am thinking about AGM golf cart batteries.  So far they are all 11.5" height, and my very early SM2000 has only 10.5" battery box height. I'm also only able to install 8+1 group31 batteries, limiting my total AHr capacity.

I'd like to make the switch to LiFePO4, but insurance is proving to be a problem.  I had hoped by the time my current batteries failed I'd be able to find insurance...alas, they've gone belly up after only a few months.

I'd love to hear any thoughts about my current ( no pun intended) problem, 6v AGMs that will fit my space, Lithium conversion insurance availability (I'm US flagged, but could register elsewhere, I guess). 
-- 
Kent & Iris
KRISTY
SM243




--
Marty and Angela Crighton
Future Amel Owners
Pyeongtaek, South Korea


Re: SM Batteries

Stefan Jeukendrup
 

Hi Nick,

That certainl has big advantages.
More people out there thinking along the same line.
Food for further reading:

https://batterybalance.com/

https://www.taoperf.com/category/tao-bms/

https://www.zwerfcat.nl/en/open-hybrid-bms.html

But it is still complex and every time I look at it new limitations/possiblities/safety aspects appear..
So not there yet with the "right" design for  a 24V 500A 600Ah custom hybrid? BMS  for a liveonboard cruising yacht.



Stefan Jeukendrup
sv Malaka Queen
SM2k #348 @ Newry Norther Ireland






Op 13 dec. 2021 16:25 schreef "Nick Newington via groups.io" <ngtnewington@...>:

I am going to throw this one out there to the community. it is just an idea...

Has anyone tried a hybrid AGM and Lithium battery bank?

I am thinking it to be 75% AGM and 25% Lithium. All connected together as one bank….I know…..just hear me out…..it is unorthodox and only an idea….up for debate...

Both battery types can be charged at  14v….then when the charge source is turned off

AGM's will drop to about 13.2v, immediately. This is the float voltage for AGM’s.

Lithium will also drop to 13.2v but maintain that voltage until say 20% capacity remains. This is part of the Lithium chemistry.

In a typical cycle, the AGM’s will be kept at float by the Lithium. So only the Lithium part will be used, but there will still be the AGM that can start to share the load after the Lithium bank has been 80% depleted. So in effect one is cycling only the Lithium part…given that Lithium can be cycled many more times than AGM’s this should be cost effective.

In Practice… imagine 8 AGM batteries of 12v 100AH  giving 400AH at 24v.  Normally this would be a typical bank. Cycle down to 75% each night. Thus consuming 100A. 

Now add two Lithiums of also 100AH 12v giving 100AH at 24v. You now have a 500AH bank….

If you still use 100A then the first 80 will come from the Lithiums or until their voltage drops below 13.2v and then the remaining demand will be supplied from the whole bank. in fact as the lithium voltage drops the AGM’s will take over and start to prop up the Lithiums…so that they do not get depleted too low.

When it comes to charging the Lithiums are more efficient and will accept fast charge, and the AGM’s will trickle full all day if there is sufficient solar….

The end result is that for the cost of only two Lithiums you have in effect a very long lasting bank. The AGM’s only cycle a few percent each day but on occasion they can be as required. They are there as reserve and barely cycle thus will last for a long time maybe more than a decade…

If one was to do this one would have to be very careful connecting the Lithiums… the AGM bank would need to be charged to float 13.2v. The Lithiums would need to be discharged to the same voltage 13.2v so when you connect them together there is no current flow between the batteries. It would be dangerous to connect them with say Lithiums at 13.8v and the AGM’s at 12.5v as it would arc at the moment of contact.

Now shout me down and tell my why this is not a good idea….

Remember the objective is to get the best AH for the lowest cost….

Merry Christmas

Nick

S/Y Amelia
AML 54-019

Stored ashore in Leros






On 12 Dec 2021, at 22:17, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Kent, Doesn't this explain the furling and outhaul motors not working properly?

Batteries are like anchors, there are lots of opinions and most opinions are based on limited comparative experience.

This is what I tell my clients and it is totally my opinion:
The best house battery buy is the basic DEKA Marine Master Deep Cycle DC31DT battery which will last 2 years, maybe 3. At $107 each (Lowes in the US) it seems like a bargain regardless of which battery you compare it to. Sure there are better batteries that will last longer, but none will cost you less per month. There are so many disappointments that have been reported by Amel owners, it is hard to choose something else. But when you buy these DEKAs and they fail in 2 years, remember that was the expectation. 

And don't forget about the DEKA 12-Volt 1000-Amp Marine Start Battery.

This is what 8 DC31DT batteries and 1 DEKA 12-Volt 1000-Amp Marine Start Battery will cost you at Lowes. 

Don't forget to check the water in these batteries. They will not last if you allow them to charge and discharge with low water.

<67774066-f4dd-4bf7-9da3-bba60d865215.png>




CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
  
View My Training Calendar

On Sun, Dec 12, 2021 at 11:36 AM karkauai via groups.io <karkauai=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Here I am again, singing the same tune...
In 2018 I bought 8 Crown "deep cycle" group 31s. They were great for about a year, then slowly began to deteriorate.  With 520 AHr and fully solar charged by early afternoon, when new I was waking up to 25.4-25.6v after about 50AHr use overnight.  This slowly deteriorated until I was running the generator before bed to avoid dropping voltage below 24.7.  I nursed them along until July 21 and bought 8 NAPA (Penn)105 AHr group 31s.  They have already failed, after working great initially, in just 5 months.

I charge at 28.5v Abs, 27v Float, and equalize at 31v (on recommendation of Crown engineer).  I have a 105A Magnum  charger/inverter, and 850W solar in 3 pairs, each pair with it's own Victron MPPP controller, and a 60 A alternator using a Balmar external regulator.

My first 3 sets of similar hybrid batteries didn't start to deteriorate until they were 30-36 months old.  This started after I installed solar.  Watching the voltages and solar output closely shows them acting as they are set to act.  Measuring amperage at the primary 25v cable from battery studs to switch, I don't find any excess current flowing with switches on or off.  All batteries measure within 0.1v after disconnecting for 6 hours. All cells have SG 1.019 +/- .001, which does not improve after 6 hrs equalizing at 31v.  All read within .2v of each other after load testing, which shows them barely in the "fair" range.  It doesn't seem to be a matter of one bad battery or cell, or unequal charging...they are all deteriorating at the same rate.

Soooo...
I need new batteries again, and am thinking about AGM golf cart batteries.  So far they are all 11.5" height, and my very early SM2000 has only 10.5" battery box height. I'm also only able to install 8+1 group31 batteries, limiting my total AHr capacity.

I'd like to make the switch to LiFePO4, but insurance is proving to be a problem.  I had hoped by the time my current batteries failed I'd be able to find insurance...alas, they've gone belly up after only a few months.

I'd love to hear any thoughts about my current ( no pun intended) problem, 6v AGMs that will fit my space, Lithium conversion insurance availability (I'm US flagged, but could register elsewhere, I guess). 
-- 
Kent & Iris
KRISTY
SM243





Re: Dinghy Sizing

Mohammad Shirloo
 

Hi Bill;

 

We did change out our tender to a 3.4 meter HighField last season and it does fit on the aft deck without interfering with the Mizzen Traveler. The end of the pontoons do project a bit into the cockpit from the sides of the Mizzen. Anything shorter is a challenge to mount on the Davits.

 

Happy Sailing;

 

 

Mohammad and Aty

B&B Kokomo

AMEL 54 #099

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of CW Bill Rouse via groups.io
Sent: Monday, December 13, 2021 8:18 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Dinghy Sizing

 

A 3.1 or up to 3.2 will stow on the aft deck like this on a SM:

I believe that up to 2.6 with most dinghies you can carry them on the aft deck of a SM like this.



CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School

Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 

 

View My Training Calendar

 

On Mon, Dec 13, 2021 at 9:34 AM Courtney Gorman via groups.io <Itsfun1=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:

Richie,

Your main concern with a dingy is one the size of the engine, how many people and stuff you want to carry, and how are you going to use it, ie short trips only in calm water for coastal cruising of for  longer range.  My opinion is buy as big as you have room for.  With a 15 hp 2 stroke or a 20 hp 4 stroke I would definitely get the CL310 it will store sidways on the aft cabin partially blocking the access to the stern on one side but I feel that you can live with.

Otherwise get the smaller and stow it longways on the aft cabin.

CHeers

Courtney

Trippin

-----Original Message-----
From: Richie Whyte <richiewhyte@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Sent: Mon, Dec 13, 2021 10:22 am
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Dinghy Sizing

I am considering purchasing a Highfield Classic Hypalon and I’m debating the merits of CL290 vs CL310 with my co owner. We are not on our boat at the moment to eyeball fitting etc. The debate centres around convenience to store the dinghy either up front or on the aft cabin roof. Ease of getting it on or off our SM2K and carrying capacity.

If any of you have either of these tenders I would be very grateful if you’d let me know if you are happy with it and whether you would change the size if you were to purchase another one.

Many thanks 

Richie


Achill, Ireland
’Why Knot’, SM2K#261 on the hard in Leros, Greece


Re: SM Batteries

Mohammad Shirloo
 

HI Nick;

 

I like your out of the box thinking.

 

We think about batteries in very simplified terms. Voltage, current, charge and discharge rates, etc. However, batteries are more complex and one of the reasons they have not been able to be reduced to simple performance, maintenance and reliability that we can all count on, if a certain set of procedures are implemented. There are chemical reactions in play that are kept in check by the many control systems we employ. Sometimes even these safety items are insufficient to prevent unforeseen reactions.

 

I think the variables and potential downsides that get thrown in by combining such different chemistries, far outweigh any potential gain.

 

Happy Sailing;

 

 

Mohammad and Aty

B&B Kokomo

AMEL 54 #099

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Nick Newington via groups.io
Sent: Monday, December 13, 2021 8:25 AM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] SM Batteries

 

I am going to throw this one out there to the community. it is just an idea...

 

Has anyone tried a hybrid AGM and Lithium battery bank?

 

I am thinking it to be 75% AGM and 25% Lithium. All connected together as one bank….I know…..just hear me out…..it is unorthodox and only an idea….up for debate...

 

Both battery types can be charged at  14v….then when the charge source is turned off

 

AGM's will drop to about 13.2v, immediately. This is the float voltage for AGM’s.

 

Lithium will also drop to 13.2v but maintain that voltage until say 20% capacity remains. This is part of the Lithium chemistry.

 

In a typical cycle, the AGM’s will be kept at float by the Lithium. So only the Lithium part will be used, but there will still be the AGM that can start to share the load after the Lithium bank has been 80% depleted. So in effect one is cycling only the Lithium part…given that Lithium can be cycled many more times than AGM’s this should be cost effective.

 

In Practice… imagine 8 AGM batteries of 12v 100AH  giving 400AH at 24v.  Normally this would be a typical bank. Cycle down to 75% each night. Thus consuming 100A. 

 

Now add two Lithiums of also 100AH 12v giving 100AH at 24v. You now have a 500AH bank….

 

If you still use 100A then the first 80 will come from the Lithiums or until their voltage drops below 13.2v and then the remaining demand will be supplied from the whole bank. in fact as the lithium voltage drops the AGM’s will take over and start to prop up the Lithiums…so that they do not get depleted too low.

 

When it comes to charging the Lithiums are more efficient and will accept fast charge, and the AGM’s will trickle full all day if there is sufficient solar….

 

The end result is that for the cost of only two Lithiums you have in effect a very long lasting bank. The AGM’s only cycle a few percent each day but on occasion they can be as required. They are there as reserve and barely cycle thus will last for a long time maybe more than a decade…

 

If one was to do this one would have to be very careful connecting the Lithiums… the AGM bank would need to be charged to float 13.2v. The Lithiums would need to be discharged to the same voltage 13.2v so when you connect them together there is no current flow between the batteries. It would be dangerous to connect them with say Lithiums at 13.8v and the AGM’s at 12.5v as it would arc at the moment of contact.

 

Now shout me down and tell my why this is not a good idea….

 

Remember the objective is to get the best AH for the lowest cost….

 

Merry Christmas

 

Nick

 

S/Y Amelia

AML 54-019

 

Stored ashore in Leros

 

 

 

 

 



On 12 Dec 2021, at 22:17, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

 

Kent, Doesn't this explain the furling and outhaul motors not working properly?

 

Batteries are like anchors, there are lots of opinions and most opinions are based on limited comparative experience.

 

This is what I tell my clients and it is totally my opinion:

The best house battery buy is the basic DEKA Marine Master Deep Cycle DC31DT battery which will last 2 years, maybe 3. At $107 each (Lowes in the US) it seems like a bargain regardless of which battery you compare it to. Sure there are better batteries that will last longer, but none will cost you less per month. There are so many disappointments that have been reported by Amel owners, it is hard to choose something else. But when you buy these DEKAs and they fail in 2 years, remember that was the expectation. 

 

And don't forget about the DEKA 12-Volt 1000-Amp Marine Start Battery.

 

This is what 8 DC31DT batteries and 1 DEKA 12-Volt 1000-Amp Marine Start Battery will cost you at Lowes. 

 

Don't forget to check the water in these batteries. They will not last if you allow them to charge and discharge with low water.

 

<67774066-f4dd-4bf7-9da3-bba60d865215.png>

 

 



CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School

Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 

  

 

View My Training Calendar

 

On Sun, Dec 12, 2021 at 11:36 AM karkauai via groups.io <karkauai=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

Here I am again, singing the same tune...
In 2018 I bought 8 Crown "deep cycle" group 31s. They were great for about a year, then slowly began to deteriorate.  With 520 AHr and fully solar charged by early afternoon, when new I was waking up to 25.4-25.6v after about 50AHr use overnight.  This slowly deteriorated until I was running the generator before bed to avoid dropping voltage below 24.7.  I nursed them along until July 21 and bought 8 NAPA (Penn)105 AHr group 31s.  They have already failed, after working great initially, in just 5 months.

I charge at 28.5v Abs, 27v Float, and equalize at 31v (on recommendation of Crown engineer).  I have a 105A Magnum  charger/inverter, and 850W solar in 3 pairs, each pair with it's own Victron MPPP controller, and a 60 A alternator using a Balmar external regulator.

My first 3 sets of similar hybrid batteries didn't start to deteriorate until they were 30-36 months old.  This started after I installed solar.  Watching the voltages and solar output closely shows them acting as they are set to act.  Measuring amperage at the primary 25v cable from battery studs to switch, I don't find any excess current flowing with switches on or off.  All batteries measure within 0.1v after disconnecting for 6 hours. All cells have SG 1.019 +/- .001, which does not improve after 6 hrs equalizing at 31v.  All read within .2v of each other after load testing, which shows them barely in the "fair" range.  It doesn't seem to be a matter of one bad battery or cell, or unequal charging...they are all deteriorating at the same rate.

Soooo...
I need new batteries again, and am thinking about AGM golf cart batteries.  So far they are all 11.5" height, and my very early SM2000 has only 10.5" battery box height. I'm also only able to install 8+1 group31 batteries, limiting my total AHr capacity.

I'd like to make the switch to LiFePO4, but insurance is proving to be a problem.  I had hoped by the time my current batteries failed I'd be able to find insurance...alas, they've gone belly up after only a few months.

I'd love to hear any thoughts about my current ( no pun intended) problem, 6v AGMs that will fit my space, Lithium conversion insurance availability (I'm US flagged, but could register elsewhere, I guess). 
-- 
Kent & Iris

KRISTY

SM243

 

 

 


Re: SM Batteries

 

Nick,

Interesting but consider charging that mixed bank.

I wonder how you can have mixed batteries and turn off charging to those in the mix that become fully charged and still charge the others in need of charging. I think it will cause the overcharging of some in the mixed bank and will melt them down.

Bill


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar

On Mon, Dec 13, 2021 at 10:25 AM Nick Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
I am going to throw this one out there to the community. it is just an idea...

Has anyone tried a hybrid AGM and Lithium battery bank?

I am thinking it to be 75% AGM and 25% Lithium. All connected together as one bank….I know…..just hear me out…..it is unorthodox and only an idea….up for debate...

Both battery types can be charged at  14v….then when the charge source is turned off

AGM's will drop to about 13.2v, immediately. This is the float voltage for AGM’s.

Lithium will also drop to 13.2v but maintain that voltage until say 20% capacity remains. This is part of the Lithium chemistry.

In a typical cycle, the AGM’s will be kept at float by the Lithium. So only the Lithium part will be used, but there will still be the AGM that can start to share the load after the Lithium bank has been 80% depleted. So in effect one is cycling only the Lithium part…given that Lithium can be cycled many more times than AGM’s this should be cost effective.

In Practice… imagine 8 AGM batteries of 12v 100AH  giving 400AH at 24v.  Normally this would be a typical bank. Cycle down to 75% each night. Thus consuming 100A. 

Now add two Lithiums of also 100AH 12v giving 100AH at 24v. You now have a 500AH bank….

If you still use 100A then the first 80 will come from the Lithiums or until their voltage drops below 13.2v and then the remaining demand will be supplied from the whole bank. in fact as the lithium voltage drops the AGM’s will take over and start to prop up the Lithiums…so that they do not get depleted too low.

When it comes to charging the Lithiums are more efficient and will accept fast charge, and the AGM’s will trickle full all day if there is sufficient solar….

The end result is that for the cost of only two Lithiums you have in effect a very long lasting bank. The AGM’s only cycle a few percent each day but on occasion they can be as required. They are there as reserve and barely cycle thus will last for a long time maybe more than a decade…

If one was to do this one would have to be very careful connecting the Lithiums… the AGM bank would need to be charged to float 13.2v. The Lithiums would need to be discharged to the same voltage 13.2v so when you connect them together there is no current flow between the batteries. It would be dangerous to connect them with say Lithiums at 13.8v and the AGM’s at 12.5v as it would arc at the moment of contact.

Now shout me down and tell my why this is not a good idea….

Remember the objective is to get the best AH for the lowest cost….

Merry Christmas

Nick

S/Y Amelia
AML 54-019

Stored ashore in Leros






On 12 Dec 2021, at 22:17, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Kent, Doesn't this explain the furling and outhaul motors not working properly?

Batteries are like anchors, there are lots of opinions and most opinions are based on limited comparative experience.

This is what I tell my clients and it is totally my opinion:
The best house battery buy is the basic DEKA Marine Master Deep Cycle DC31DT battery which will last 2 years, maybe 3. At $107 each (Lowes in the US) it seems like a bargain regardless of which battery you compare it to. Sure there are better batteries that will last longer, but none will cost you less per month. There are so many disappointments that have been reported by Amel owners, it is hard to choose something else. But when you buy these DEKAs and they fail in 2 years, remember that was the expectation. 

And don't forget about the DEKA 12-Volt 1000-Amp Marine Start Battery.

This is what 8 DC31DT batteries and 1 DEKA 12-Volt 1000-Amp Marine Start Battery will cost you at Lowes. 

Don't forget to check the water in these batteries. They will not last if you allow them to charge and discharge with low water.

<67774066-f4dd-4bf7-9da3-bba60d865215.png>




CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
  
View My Training Calendar

On Sun, Dec 12, 2021 at 11:36 AM karkauai via groups.io <karkauai=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Here I am again, singing the same tune...
In 2018 I bought 8 Crown "deep cycle" group 31s. They were great for about a year, then slowly began to deteriorate.  With 520 AHr and fully solar charged by early afternoon, when new I was waking up to 25.4-25.6v after about 50AHr use overnight.  This slowly deteriorated until I was running the generator before bed to avoid dropping voltage below 24.7.  I nursed them along until July 21 and bought 8 NAPA (Penn)105 AHr group 31s.  They have already failed, after working great initially, in just 5 months.

I charge at 28.5v Abs, 27v Float, and equalize at 31v (on recommendation of Crown engineer).  I have a 105A Magnum  charger/inverter, and 850W solar in 3 pairs, each pair with it's own Victron MPPP controller, and a 60 A alternator using a Balmar external regulator.

My first 3 sets of similar hybrid batteries didn't start to deteriorate until they were 30-36 months old.  This started after I installed solar.  Watching the voltages and solar output closely shows them acting as they are set to act.  Measuring amperage at the primary 25v cable from battery studs to switch, I don't find any excess current flowing with switches on or off.  All batteries measure within 0.1v after disconnecting for 6 hours. All cells have SG 1.019 +/- .001, which does not improve after 6 hrs equalizing at 31v.  All read within .2v of each other after load testing, which shows them barely in the "fair" range.  It doesn't seem to be a matter of one bad battery or cell, or unequal charging...they are all deteriorating at the same rate.

Soooo...
I need new batteries again, and am thinking about AGM golf cart batteries.  So far they are all 11.5" height, and my very early SM2000 has only 10.5" battery box height. I'm also only able to install 8+1 group31 batteries, limiting my total AHr capacity.

I'd like to make the switch to LiFePO4, but insurance is proving to be a problem.  I had hoped by the time my current batteries failed I'd be able to find insurance...alas, they've gone belly up after only a few months.

I'd love to hear any thoughts about my current ( no pun intended) problem, 6v AGMs that will fit my space, Lithium conversion insurance availability (I'm US flagged, but could register elsewhere, I guess). 
-- 
Kent & Iris
KRISTY
SM243




Re: SM Batteries

Nick Newington
 

I am going to throw this one out there to the community. it is just an idea...

Has anyone tried a hybrid AGM and Lithium battery bank?

I am thinking it to be 75% AGM and 25% Lithium. All connected together as one bank….I know…..just hear me out…..it is unorthodox and only an idea….up for debate...

Both battery types can be charged at  14v….then when the charge source is turned off

AGM's will drop to about 13.2v, immediately. This is the float voltage for AGM’s.

Lithium will also drop to 13.2v but maintain that voltage until say 20% capacity remains. This is part of the Lithium chemistry.

In a typical cycle, the AGM’s will be kept at float by the Lithium. So only the Lithium part will be used, but there will still be the AGM that can start to share the load after the Lithium bank has been 80% depleted. So in effect one is cycling only the Lithium part…given that Lithium can be cycled many more times than AGM’s this should be cost effective.

In Practice… imagine 8 AGM batteries of 12v 100AH  giving 400AH at 24v.  Normally this would be a typical bank. Cycle down to 75% each night. Thus consuming 100A. 

Now add two Lithiums of also 100AH 12v giving 100AH at 24v. You now have a 500AH bank….

If you still use 100A then the first 80 will come from the Lithiums or until their voltage drops below 13.2v and then the remaining demand will be supplied from the whole bank. in fact as the lithium voltage drops the AGM’s will take over and start to prop up the Lithiums…so that they do not get depleted too low.

When it comes to charging the Lithiums are more efficient and will accept fast charge, and the AGM’s will trickle full all day if there is sufficient solar….

The end result is that for the cost of only two Lithiums you have in effect a very long lasting bank. The AGM’s only cycle a few percent each day but on occasion they can be as required. They are there as reserve and barely cycle thus will last for a long time maybe more than a decade…

If one was to do this one would have to be very careful connecting the Lithiums… the AGM bank would need to be charged to float 13.2v. The Lithiums would need to be discharged to the same voltage 13.2v so when you connect them together there is no current flow between the batteries. It would be dangerous to connect them with say Lithiums at 13.8v and the AGM’s at 12.5v as it would arc at the moment of contact.

Now shout me down and tell my why this is not a good idea….

Remember the objective is to get the best AH for the lowest cost….

Merry Christmas

Nick

S/Y Amelia
AML 54-019

Stored ashore in Leros






On 12 Dec 2021, at 22:17, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Kent, Doesn't this explain the furling and outhaul motors not working properly?

Batteries are like anchors, there are lots of opinions and most opinions are based on limited comparative experience.

This is what I tell my clients and it is totally my opinion:
The best house battery buy is the basic DEKA Marine Master Deep Cycle DC31DT battery which will last 2 years, maybe 3. At $107 each (Lowes in the US) it seems like a bargain regardless of which battery you compare it to. Sure there are better batteries that will last longer, but none will cost you less per month. There are so many disappointments that have been reported by Amel owners, it is hard to choose something else. But when you buy these DEKAs and they fail in 2 years, remember that was the expectation. 

And don't forget about the DEKA 12-Volt 1000-Amp Marine Start Battery.

This is what 8 DC31DT batteries and 1 DEKA 12-Volt 1000-Amp Marine Start Battery will cost you at Lowes. 

Don't forget to check the water in these batteries. They will not last if you allow them to charge and discharge with low water.

<67774066-f4dd-4bf7-9da3-bba60d865215.png>




CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
  
View My Training Calendar

On Sun, Dec 12, 2021 at 11:36 AM karkauai via groups.io <karkauai=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Here I am again, singing the same tune...
In 2018 I bought 8 Crown "deep cycle" group 31s. They were great for about a year, then slowly began to deteriorate.  With 520 AHr and fully solar charged by early afternoon, when new I was waking up to 25.4-25.6v after about 50AHr use overnight.  This slowly deteriorated until I was running the generator before bed to avoid dropping voltage below 24.7.  I nursed them along until July 21 and bought 8 NAPA (Penn)105 AHr group 31s.  They have already failed, after working great initially, in just 5 months.

I charge at 28.5v Abs, 27v Float, and equalize at 31v (on recommendation of Crown engineer).  I have a 105A Magnum  charger/inverter, and 850W solar in 3 pairs, each pair with it's own Victron MPPP controller, and a 60 A alternator using a Balmar external regulator.

My first 3 sets of similar hybrid batteries didn't start to deteriorate until they were 30-36 months old.  This started after I installed solar.  Watching the voltages and solar output closely shows them acting as they are set to act.  Measuring amperage at the primary 25v cable from battery studs to switch, I don't find any excess current flowing with switches on or off.  All batteries measure within 0.1v after disconnecting for 6 hours. All cells have SG 1.019 +/- .001, which does not improve after 6 hrs equalizing at 31v.  All read within .2v of each other after load testing, which shows them barely in the "fair" range.  It doesn't seem to be a matter of one bad battery or cell, or unequal charging...they are all deteriorating at the same rate.

Soooo...
I need new batteries again, and am thinking about AGM golf cart batteries.  So far they are all 11.5" height, and my very early SM2000 has only 10.5" battery box height. I'm also only able to install 8+1 group31 batteries, limiting my total AHr capacity.

I'd like to make the switch to LiFePO4, but insurance is proving to be a problem.  I had hoped by the time my current batteries failed I'd be able to find insurance...alas, they've gone belly up after only a few months.

I'd love to hear any thoughts about my current ( no pun intended) problem, 6v AGMs that will fit my space, Lithium conversion insurance availability (I'm US flagged, but could register elsewhere, I guess). 
-- 
Kent & Iris
KRISTY
SM243




Re: Dinghy Sizing

 

A 3.1 or up to 3.2 will stow on the aft deck like this on a SM:
image.png
I believe that up to 2.6 with most dinghies you can carry them on the aft deck of a SM like this.
image.png


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar

On Mon, Dec 13, 2021 at 9:34 AM Courtney Gorman via groups.io <Itsfun1=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Richie,
Your main concern with a dingy is one the size of the engine, how many people and stuff you want to carry, and how are you going to use it, ie short trips only in calm water for coastal cruising of for  longer range.  My opinion is buy as big as you have room for.  With a 15 hp 2 stroke or a 20 hp 4 stroke I would definitely get the CL310 it will store sidways on the aft cabin partially blocking the access to the stern on one side but I feel that you can live with.
Otherwise get the smaller and stow it longways on the aft cabin.
CHeers
Courtney
Trippin


-----Original Message-----
From: Richie Whyte <richiewhyte@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Sent: Mon, Dec 13, 2021 10:22 am
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Dinghy Sizing

I am considering purchasing a Highfield Classic Hypalon and I’m debating the merits of CL290 vs CL310 with my co owner. We are not on our boat at the moment to eyeball fitting etc. The debate centres around convenience to store the dinghy either up front or on the aft cabin roof. Ease of getting it on or off our SM2K and carrying capacity.
If any of you have either of these tenders I would be very grateful if you’d let me know if you are happy with it and whether you would change the size if you were to purchase another one.

Many thanks 

Richie


Achill, Ireland
’Why Knot’, SM2K#261 on the hard in Leros, Greece


Re: Dinghy Sizing

Courtney Gorman
 

Richie,
Your main concern with a dingy is one the size of the engine, how many people and stuff you want to carry, and how are you going to use it, ie short trips only in calm water for coastal cruising of for  longer range.  My opinion is buy as big as you have room for.  With a 15 hp 2 stroke or a 20 hp 4 stroke I would definitely get the CL310 it will store sidways on the aft cabin partially blocking the access to the stern on one side but I feel that you can live with.
Otherwise get the smaller and stow it longways on the aft cabin.
CHeers
Courtney
Trippin


-----Original Message-----
From: Richie Whyte <richiewhyte@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Sent: Mon, Dec 13, 2021 10:22 am
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Dinghy Sizing

I am considering purchasing a Highfield Classic Hypalon and I’m debating the merits of CL290 vs CL310 with my co owner. We are not on our boat at the moment to eyeball fitting etc. The debate centres around convenience to store the dinghy either up front or on the aft cabin roof. Ease of getting it on or off our SM2K and carrying capacity.
If any of you have either of these tenders I would be very grateful if you’d let me know if you are happy with it and whether you would change the size if you were to purchase another one.

Many thanks 

Richie


Achill, Ireland
’Why Knot’, SM2K#261 on the hard in Leros, Greece


Dinghy Sizing

Richie Whyte
 

I am considering purchasing a Highfield Classic Hypalon and I’m debating the merits of CL290 vs CL310 with my co owner. We are not on our boat at the moment to eyeball fitting etc. The debate centres around convenience to store the dinghy either up front or on the aft cabin roof. Ease of getting it on or off our SM2K and carrying capacity.

If any of you have either of these tenders I would be very grateful if you’d let me know if you are happy with it and whether you would change the size if you were to purchase another one.

Many thanks 

Richie


Achill, Ireland
’Why Knot’, SM2K#261 on the hard in Leros, Greece


Re: Amel - made Genoa Furler Bronze Spur Gear

EricOpdeweegh
 

Hi Bill,

Is this bronze spur gear for the Genoa gearbox of a different size or the same size as the one for the main and outhaul gearbox?


Best Regards 
Eric 
Sv Abayomi 
SM 158


Re: Amel - made Genoa Furler Bronze Spur Gear

Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy)
 

Hi Bill,

What do you know about this furler? Does it take the same spares you're talking about here?

Cheers,
Mike Longcor
SV Trilogy SM23
NZ

On Mon, Dec 13, 2021, 3:12 AM CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
A member of this Group and SM owner is loaning us a new and never-used SM Genoa repair kit that was once offered by Amel. 2 other SM owners have volunteered to get the Spur Gear duplicated at a machine shop that will be able to accept orders and ship them as needed. I will post the information and contact information in a new thread.

Every SM owner should consider purchasing the bronze Spur Gear for the SM Genoa. When the current gear wears out, one of the other options will be to replace the Genoa Furler completely with one made by FACNOR at a cost of about 10.000 euro. 

--
 
Best,
 
CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970


Re: Amel - made Genoa Furler Bronze Spur Gear

Alan Leslie
 

Excellent Bill !
I emailed the Swiss guy, but never got an answer.
I am in for a spur gear when they are available.
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: Bali Hai Abandoned

Cathy & Guillaume
 

Bali Hai is still afloat!

It was seen a few days ago by the Imoca boat Paprec, returning from Martinique to France, in the middle of the Atlantic.

https://larochesuryon.maville.com/sport/detail_--soit-on-le-recupere-soit-on-le-coule-que-dit-le-droit-pour-un-voilier-abandonne-_54135-4981231_actu.Htm

Unfortunately, it is a danger to navigation, let's hope it can be recovered!

Guillaume
Carpathia III - SM2K #293


Re: Suction valve on the sea chest and the vetus muffler

 

Danny,
  1. Turn off the sea chest valve.
  2. Operate anything like a saltwater electric toilet, or AC
  3. The alarm should sound within 5-10 seconds.
If the alarm doesn't sound, remove the switch, pipe, and hose and check for clogs. Clean everything and reinstall. Through trial and error adjust the sensitivity.



Maybe you missed what I posted earlier:
image.png


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar

On Sun, Dec 12, 2021 at 1:35 PM Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...> wrote:
Hi Kevin, I would be interested as to how you tested the vacuum sensor
Danny
SM 299
Ocean Pearl 
On 12/12/2021 04:47 Kevin Schmit <kevschmit64@...> wrote:


Eric,

just curious if you ever solved this Sea Chest vacuum sensor problem?  Mine isn’t working and I was going to email Maude for a price on a new sensor.  Did you ever get it to work properly or did you end up installing a totally different sensor and system?  I was hoping to avoid spending $ on a new sensor if it’s problematic to begin with….

any advice is appreciated.
--
Kevin & Kristen Schmit
KIANA
SM #362


Re: Amel - made Genoa Furler Bronze Spur Gear

 

Hanspeter,

Thanks for your email and your offer. I know the Swiss guy is 80 and not doing this anymore, but he has some parts inventory from when he was making this furler for Amel. I have had dozens of email discussions with him over the past several years.

I do not need your old Spur gear. Another SM owner is loaning us a complete overhaul kit supplied by Amel. We are attempting to find a quality and reliable machine shop to duplicate the original Spur and ship it to Amel owners when they order it from him.

I will let everyone know sometime next year when the details are worked out.
Bill



CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar

On Sun, Dec 12, 2021 at 12:01 PM hanspeter baettig <hanspeter.baettig@...> wrote:
Hi Bill
Its Hanspeter, Tamango 2; Nr.16
The Swiss Guy you mentioned is not doing anymore this Spur Gear. He is more then 80 Years old. I got the last Spur Gear Amel had in stock from Albin in Martinique, last Year.
My old one was a littel worn out, but still functioned after 29 Years of lots of sailing . 4 times Atlantic crossing. 
So What should I do ?
Send the old one to you to Texas ?
Pls advice.
I’m until January in Santa Marta, Columbia
You have I think still my email
Best regards
Hanspeter
SM 16, Tamango 2

Von meinem iPad gesendet

Am 08.12.2021 um 17:03 schrieb CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>:


I have recently given out the contact information of the Swiss guy who owned the machine shop that made the genoa furler for Amel. Apparently, he has gotten greedy and is quoting outrageous prices for spare parts. I need to borrow the bronze Spur Gear from someone to see if we can reverse engineer it. All SM owners are going to need this Spur Gear, especially if they have not added the ability to add grease to the genoa furler. Email me at brouse@...


<image.png>


<image.png>

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


Re: SM Batteries

 

Kent, Doesn't this explain the furling and outhaul motors not working properly?

Batteries are like anchors, there are lots of opinions and most opinions are based on limited comparative experience.

This is what I tell my clients and it is totally my opinion:
The best house battery buy is the basic DEKA Marine Master Deep Cycle DC31DT battery which will last 2 years, maybe 3. At $107 each (Lowes in the US) it seems like a bargain regardless of which battery you compare it to. Sure there are better batteries that will last longer, but none will cost you less per month. There are so many disappointments that have been reported by Amel owners, it is hard to choose something else. But when you buy these DEKAs and they fail in 2 years, remember that was the expectation. 

And don't forget about the DEKA 12-Volt 1000-Amp Marine Start Battery.

This is what 8 DC31DT batteries and 1 DEKA 12-Volt 1000-Amp Marine Start Battery will cost you at Lowes. 

Don't forget to check the water in these batteries. They will not last if you allow them to charge and discharge with low water.

67774066-f4dd-4bf7-9da3-bba60d865215.png




CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar

On Sun, Dec 12, 2021 at 11:36 AM karkauai via groups.io <karkauai=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Here I am again, singing the same tune...
In 2018 I bought 8 Crown "deep cycle" group 31s. They were great for about a year, then slowly began to deteriorate.  With 520 AHr and fully solar charged by early afternoon, when new I was waking up to 25.4-25.6v after about 50AHr use overnight.  This slowly deteriorated until I was running the generator before bed to avoid dropping voltage below 24.7.  I nursed them along until July 21 and bought 8 NAPA (Penn)105 AHr group 31s.  They have already failed, after working great initially, in just 5 months.

I charge at 28.5v Abs, 27v Float, and equalize at 31v (on recommendation of Crown engineer).  I have a 105A Magnum  charger/inverter, and 850W solar in 3 pairs, each pair with it's own Victron MPPP controller, and a 60 A alternator using a Balmar external regulator.

My first 3 sets of similar hybrid batteries didn't start to deteriorate until they were 30-36 months old.  This started after I installed solar.  Watching the voltages and solar output closely shows them acting as they are set to act.  Measuring amperage at the primary 25v cable from battery studs to switch, I don't find any excess current flowing with switches on or off.  All batteries measure within 0.1v after disconnecting for 6 hours. All cells have SG 1.019 +/- .001, which does not improve after 6 hrs equalizing at 31v.  All read within .2v of each other after load testing, which shows them barely in the "fair" range.  It doesn't seem to be a matter of one bad battery or cell, or unequal charging...they are all deteriorating at the same rate.

Soooo...
I need new batteries again, and am thinking about AGM golf cart batteries.  So far they are all 11.5" height, and my very early SM2000 has only 10.5" battery box height. I'm also only able to install 8+1 group31 batteries, limiting my total AHr capacity.

I'd like to make the switch to LiFePO4, but insurance is proving to be a problem.  I had hoped by the time my current batteries failed I'd be able to find insurance...alas, they've gone belly up after only a few months.

I'd love to hear any thoughts about my current ( no pun intended) problem, 6v AGMs that will fit my space, Lithium conversion insurance availability (I'm US flagged, but could register elsewhere, I guess). 
--
Kent & Iris
KRISTY
SM243


Re: Suction valve on the sea chest and the vetus muffler

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Kevin, I would be interested as to how you tested the vacuum sensor
Danny
SM 299
Ocean Pearl 

On 12/12/2021 04:47 Kevin Schmit <kevschmit64@...> wrote:


Eric,

just curious if you ever solved this Sea Chest vacuum sensor problem?  Mine isn’t working and I was going to email Maude for a price on a new sensor.  Did you ever get it to work properly or did you end up installing a totally different sensor and system?  I was hoping to avoid spending $ on a new sensor if it’s problematic to begin with….

any advice is appreciated.
--
Kevin & Kristen Schmit
KIANA
SM #362

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