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Re: Rudder Packing—again_ Tank cleaning in Marmaris.

Giovanni TESTA
 

Hi James,
since you are in Marmaris, may you please tell me if you had any experince, directly or not, with some contractor to clean the fuel tank overthere ?
Many thanks.
Giovanni Testa
sv EUTIKIA SM2K  428
Preveza (GR)

Il 28/12/2021 07:34, James Alton via groups.io ha scritto:
Bill,

   I don't think that you would need to extend the shaft tube very far to accomodate one additional packing ring.  Fiberglass/epoxy would be far stronger than the JB weld, especially if you prepared the surfaces of the original fiberglass structure to bond your extension to.  You could screw your extension tube "mold" into the existing threads after preparing all surfaces.  Wax your mold well with a mold release wax and make the wax thick at the bottom to insure no epoxy can drool down the tube.  Then mix up a thickened epoxy, using collodial silica, maybe adding some finely milled fiberglass.  Coat to fill the threads in your mold filling all voids, then wrap many layers of 10 ounce cloth cleanly cut so that you don't have a mess.    Build the thickness you want for the tube extension then using more thickend epoxy fair the new tube into the original fiberglass structure and fiberglass the extension tube to the original structure lapping perhaps 2" onto the original structure.  10 layers would probably do it.  This way your extension tube is not relying on just a bond to the top of the original structure, you will have a significant and strong attachment.  The glass fiber wrapped around the mold will form a strong tube that can withstand considerable tension from tightening the nut and should not crack on you.  You may need 50 more more layers and if needed do this layup in stages, curing the epoxy and preparing the surface.  I often use the West 105 Epoxy resin for these types of jobs but a harder/stronger resin might create stronger threads.  Regardless of the epoxy resin, I would do a post cure per the epoxy resin manufacturers recommendation to raise the glass transition temperature and improve the hardness and strength at room temperature.  On the other hand, if your current solution with the Dripless packing has done the trick, maybe doing nothing is an even better solution!

Best,
James Alton
Recovering in Marmaris Turkey aboard SV Sueno


-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Kinney <cruisingconsulting@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Sent: Tue, Dec 28, 2021 12:20 am
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Rudder Packing—again

Francoise at Amel in Martinique has a great solution. He has designed an extension of the shaft tube which is epoxied and screwed in place. I now can insert 5 -3/8's  packing strips and 6 if I press down hard. I use a 2" sch. 80 PVC pipe to set the packing and don't drive them in too forcefully. I use the gland nut to apply the pressure to stop all leaks. 10m months, lots of bashing and no leaks.
Bill 
Cloudstreet
Extending the shaft tube was going to be my next step if the Dripless packing didn’t work. My plan was to cast an extension in place using JB Weld, or something similar.

 I’d love to see a picture of what yours looks like, because I can’t see how I could extend my tube that far (2.5 to 3 cm?) without making major changes in the alignment of the various parts of the steering gear that seem like they would be complex to sort out.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Fort Lauderdale, FL
Re: Rudder Packing—again

James Alton
 

Bill,

   I don't think that you would need to extend the shaft tube very far to accomodate one additional packing ring.  Fiberglass/epoxy would be far stronger than the JB weld, especially if you prepared the surfaces of the original fiberglass structure to bond your extension to.  You could screw your extension tube "mold" into the existing threads after preparing all surfaces.  Wax your mold well with a mold release wax and make the wax thick at the bottom to insure no epoxy can drool down the tube.  Then mix up a thickened epoxy, using collodial silica, maybe adding some finely milled fiberglass.  Coat to fill the threads in your mold filling all voids, then wrap many layers of 10 ounce cloth cleanly cut so that you don't have a mess.    Build the thickness you want for the tube extension then using more thickend epoxy fair the new tube into the original fiberglass structure and fiberglass the extension tube to the original structure lapping perhaps 2" onto the original structure.  10 layers would probably do it.  This way your extension tube is not relying on just a bond to the top of the original structure, you will have a significant and strong attachment.  The glass fiber wrapped around the mold will form a strong tube that can withstand considerable tension from tightening the nut and should not crack on you.  You may need 50 more more layers and if needed do this layup in stages, curing the epoxy and preparing the surface.  I often use the West 105 Epoxy resin for these types of jobs but a harder/stronger resin might create stronger threads.  Regardless of the epoxy resin, I would do a post cure per the epoxy resin manufacturers recommendation to raise the glass transition temperature and improve the hardness and strength at room temperature.  On the other hand, if your current solution with the Dripless packing has done the trick, maybe doing nothing is an even better solution!

Best,
James Alton
Recovering in Marmaris Turkey aboard SV Sueno


-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Kinney <cruisingconsulting@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Sent: Tue, Dec 28, 2021 12:20 am
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Rudder Packing—again

Francoise at Amel in Martinique has a great solution. He has designed an extension of the shaft tube which is epoxied and screwed in place. I now can insert 5 -3/8's  packing strips and 6 if I press down hard. I use a 2" sch. 80 PVC pipe to set the packing and don't drive them in too forcefully. I use the gland nut to apply the pressure to stop all leaks. 10m months, lots of bashing and no leaks.
Bill 
Cloudstreet
Extending the shaft tube was going to be my next step if the Dripless packing didn’t work. My plan was to cast an extension in place using JB Weld, or something similar.

 I’d love to see a picture of what yours looks like, because I can’t see how I could extend my tube that far (2.5 to 3 cm?) without making major changes in the alignment of the various parts of the steering gear that seem like they would be complex to sort out.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Fort Lauderdale, FL
Re: More on engine replacement

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Teun, a wise choice. Apart from anything else, its a sailing vessel not a ski boat
Kind regards
Danny
SM 299
Ocean Pearl

On 28/12/2021 08:33 Teun BAAS <teun@...> wrote:


In addition: when I replaced in 2018 the VOLVO D3 C for the VOLVO D3 H I had the option/choice, for the same price, to get the 110HP chip or the 150HP chip. Consulting AMEL FRANCE they told me to stick with the 110HP; which, of course, I did.

 

Best Regards Teun

SV AMELIT  A54  #128

 

HOPE ISLAND MARINA (near BRISBANE) QLD AUSTRALIA

December 27, 2021 12:31:39

 

You can follow AMELIT via this link: https://forecast.predictwind.com/tracking/display/AMELIT

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Danny and Yvonne SIMMS via groups.io
Sent: Monday, December 27, 2021 12:13
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io; william reynolds <sail23692@...>
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] More on engine replacement


Hi again, one more important issue when replacing the engine in an SM. Amel unequivocally told me that the c drive on SM 299 was designed for the 78 hp engine and I was not to even consider going to the 110 models since this would be highly likely to cause failure of the c drive. Later models that Amel fitted with the 110 hp had a higher speced c drive

Regards

Danny

sm 299

Ocean Pearl

On 28/12/2021 01:02 william reynolds <sail23692@...> wrote:



I have a new Yanmar 4JH-80. It is a common rail. It was just installed prior to purchase of my boat. It had 14 hours.
I'm old school and almost backed out of the purchase because of the engine. I had heard the stories of common rail engines.
I talked to Yanmar US at great length, and contacted 6 owners of  Yanmar 4JH-80's. Everyone I talked to had had no problems withb their engines.
I finally got a written agreement from the Yanmar dealer in Martinique who had installed the engine that if I had any problem with the engine that they would 
come to me anywhere in the Eastern Caribbean (at their cost) and sort out the issue. This agreement was filed with Yanmar International. I bought the boat.
I now have 300 hours on the engine and operate it exactly as prescribed by Yanmar. So far, no problems. It is quiet, smooth and I can push the boat 
to 10 knots in a flat sea ,if needed. 
Would I recdcommend putting on in your Amel? No. Only a dealer with the proper diagnostic equipment can sort out any problems. There is only one dealer 
in the Eastern Caribbean with this capability. 
Yanmar's  4JH2-HTE is a non turbo, convential engine which I would have preferred. I'm not intimately familiar with the Volvos except parts and maintenance are
pricey. My engine of choice for SM would be the Perkins M92-B which is the newist version of the old Perkins 4-236, a bullit proof, normally asperated convential engine.
The older 4-236 engines are easy to work on, have parts available world wide and I owned or operated dozens of these engines some with over 20 thousand hours. Cost at parts and Power in the BVI is approx 14K US. (Fatty Goodlander has a new Perkins in his boat and  says nothing but glowing things about it) The BETA is another good choice of engine but the wait is long due to the demand. I have no experience with these engines but have talked with many satisfied owners.
Happy Boxing Day
Bill 
Cloudstreet  SM2K 331
Re: Rudder Packing—again

Eric Freedman <kimberlite@...>
 

Bill,

Amel also did mine.

They used my spare packing nut with release on it and laid up the extension. It is a bit longer than 2 pieces of packing.

It is the same diameter as the original stuffing box. They epoxied this assembly to my existing stuffing box.

They also added a few long screws. Works great and there in no problem with the clearance with the ruder quadrant.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io On Behalf Of Bill Kinney
Sent: Monday, December 27, 2021 4:20 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Rudder Packing—again

 

Francoise at Amel in Martinique has a great solution. He has designed an extension of the shaft tube which is epoxied and screwed in place. I now can insert 5 -3/8's  packing strips and 6 if I press down hard. I use a 2" sch. 80 PVC pipe to set the packing and don't drive them in too forcefully. I use the gland nut to apply the pressure to stop all leaks. 10m months, lots of bashing and no leaks.

Bill 

Cloudstreet

Extending the shaft tube was going to be my next step if the Dripless packing didn’t work. My plan was to cast an extension in place using JB Weld, or something similar.

 I’d love to see a picture of what yours looks like, because I can’t see how I could extend my tube that far (2.5 to 3 cm?) without making major changes in the alignment of the various parts of the steering gear that seem like they would be complex to sort out.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Fort Lauderdale, FL
Re: Rudder Packing—again

Bill Kinney
 

Francoise at Amel in Martinique has a great solution. He has designed an extension of the shaft tube which is epoxied and screwed in place. I now can insert 5 -3/8's  packing strips and 6 if I press down hard. I use a 2" sch. 80 PVC pipe to set the packing and don't drive them in too forcefully. I use the gland nut to apply the pressure to stop all leaks. 10m months, lots of bashing and no leaks.
Bill 
Cloudstreet
Extending the shaft tube was going to be my next step if the Dripless packing didn’t work. My plan was to cast an extension in place using JB Weld, or something similar.

 I’d love to see a picture of what yours looks like, because I can’t see how I could extend my tube that far (2.5 to 3 cm?) without making major changes in the alignment of the various parts of the steering gear that seem like they would be complex to sort out.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Fort Lauderdale, FL
Re: Chain counter sensor

Roque
 

Hi Paul


I used the old cable, just replaced the sensor. You can either splice the new sensor to the old cable, or you can buy the specific connection. In both cases it must be properly done, but you know that. 

Replacing all the cable from cockpit to bow would not be an easy task. You can check if yours is still sound.

Have you checked the magnet? If it is gone, maybe the problem is not the sensor. Just a thought.

 

Roque
Attika A54 117
Paraty - Brazil
Re: Chain counter sensor

CW Bill Rouse
 

Paul,

I am sorry I do not know the length. The sensor is on the end of the cable

Bill


On Mon, Dec 27, 2021 at 12:03 PM Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown <paul.dowd@...> wrote:

Hi Bill,

 

Thanks. Would you happen to know what length of cable I will need for this, or do I not need any cable? I am not on the boat at present.

 

Cheers,

Paul

 

Paul Dowd & Sharon Brown

S/Y Ya Fohi, Amel 54 #98
tel: +44 (0)7710 466619

skype: pauldowd
web: https://my.yb.tl/yafohi

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of CW Bill Rouse
Sent: 17 December 2021 23:56
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Chain counter sensor

 

Paul,

 

The one you listed is for a SM2k and will not work on the Lewmar windlass.

 

The one JLMERTZ listed is an aftermarket replacement for the OEM Sensor for a SM2k. It will not work on your 54.

 

In fact, neither is suitable for your Lewmar 560 chain counter.

 

This is what you need:

 

I hope this helps.


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School

Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 

 

View My Training Calendar

 

On Fri, Dec 17, 2021 at 2:01 PM Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown <paul.dowd@...> wrote:

Hi,

 

Would someone be able to confirm that this is the chain counter sensor I need for A54:

 

https://www.ifm.com/gb/en/product/IB5072

 

 

Cheers,

Paul

 

Paul Dowd & Sharon Brown

S/Y Ya Fohi, Amel 54 #98
tel: +44 (0)7710 466619

skype: pauldowd
web: https://my.yb.tl/yafohi

 


--
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98


--
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98

Re: More on engine replacement

Teun BAAS
 

In addition: when I replaced in 2018 the VOLVO D3 C for the VOLVO D3 H I had the option/choice, for the same price, to get the 110HP chip or the 150HP chip. Consulting AMEL FRANCE they told me to stick with the 110HP; which, of course, I did.

 

Best Regards Teun

SV AMELIT  A54  #128

 

HOPE ISLAND MARINA (near BRISBANE) QLD AUSTRALIA

December 27, 2021 12:31:39

 

You can follow AMELIT via this link: https://forecast.predictwind.com/tracking/display/AMELIT

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Danny and Yvonne SIMMS via groups.io
Sent: Monday, December 27, 2021 12:13
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io; william reynolds <sail23692@...>
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] More on engine replacement

 

Hi again, one more important issue when replacing the engine in an SM. Amel unequivocally told me that the c drive on SM 299 was designed for the 78 hp engine and I was not to even consider going to the 110 models since this would be highly likely to cause failure of the c drive. Later models that Amel fitted with the 110 hp had a higher speced c drive

Regards

Danny

sm 299

Ocean Pearl

On 28/12/2021 01:02 william reynolds <sail23692@...> wrote:

 

 

I have a new Yanmar 4JH-80. It is a common rail. It was just installed prior to purchase of my boat. It had 14 hours.
I'm old school and almost backed out of the purchase because of the engine. I had heard the stories of common rail engines.
I talked to Yanmar US at great length, and contacted 6 owners of  Yanmar 4JH-80's. Everyone I talked to had had no problems withb their engines.
I finally got a written agreement from the Yanmar dealer in Martinique who had installed the engine that if I had any problem with the engine that they would 
come to me anywhere in the Eastern Caribbean (at their cost) and sort out the issue. This agreement was filed with Yanmar International. I bought the boat.
I now have 300 hours on the engine and operate it exactly as prescribed by Yanmar. So far, no problems. It is quiet, smooth and I can push the boat 
to 10 knots in a flat sea ,if needed. 
Would I recdcommend putting on in your Amel? No. Only a dealer with the proper diagnostic equipment can sort out any problems. There is only one dealer 
in the Eastern Caribbean with this capability. 
Yanmar's  4JH2-HTE is a non turbo, convential engine which I would have preferred. I'm not intimately familiar with the Volvos except parts and maintenance are
pricey. My engine of choice for SM would be the Perkins M92-B which is the newist version of the old Perkins 4-236, a bullit proof, normally asperated convential engine.
The older 4-236 engines are easy to work on, have parts available world wide and I owned or operated dozens of these engines some with over 20 thousand hours. Cost at parts and Power in the BVI is approx 14K US. (Fatty Goodlander has a new Perkins in his boat and  says nothing but glowing things about it) The BETA is another good choice of engine but the wait is long due to the demand. I have no experience with these engines but have talked with many satisfied owners.
Happy Boxing Day
Bill 
Cloudstreet  SM2K 331

Re: More on engine replacement

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi again, one more important issue when replacing the engine in an SM. Amel unequivocally told me that the c drive on SM 299 was designed for the 78 hp engine and I was not to even consider going to the 110 models since this would be highly likely to cause failure of the c drive. Later models that Amel fitted with the 110 hp had a higher speced c drive
Regards
Danny
sm 299
Ocean Pearl

On 28/12/2021 01:02 william reynolds <sail23692@...> wrote:


I have a new Yanmar 4JH-80. It is a common rail. It was just installed prior to purchase of my boat. It had 14 hours.
I'm old school and almost backed out of the purchase because of the engine. I had heard the stories of common rail engines.
I talked to Yanmar US at great length, and contacted 6 owners of  Yanmar 4JH-80's. Everyone I talked to had had no problems withb their engines.
I finally got a written agreement from the Yanmar dealer in Martinique who had installed the engine that if I had any problem with the engine that they would 
come to me anywhere in the Eastern Caribbean (at their cost) and sort out the issue. This agreement was filed with Yanmar International. I bought the boat.
I now have 300 hours on the engine and operate it exactly as prescribed by Yanmar. So far, no problems. It is quiet, smooth and I can push the boat 
to 10 knots in a flat sea ,if needed. 
Would I recdcommend putting on in your Amel? No. Only a dealer with the proper diagnostic equipment can sort out any problems. There is only one dealer 
in the Eastern Caribbean with this capability. 
Yanmar's  4JH2-HTE is a non turbo, convential engine which I would have preferred. I'm not intimately familiar with the Volvos except parts and maintenance are
pricey. My engine of choice for SM would be the Perkins M92-B which is the newist version of the old Perkins 4-236, a bullit proof, normally asperated convential engine.
The older 4-236 engines are easy to work on, have parts available world wide and I owned or operated dozens of these engines some with over 20 thousand hours. Cost at parts and Power in the BVI is approx 14K US. (Fatty Goodlander has a new Perkins in his boat and  says nothing but glowing things about it) The BETA is another good choice of engine but the wait is long due to the demand. I have no experience with these engines but have talked with many satisfied owners.
Happy Boxing Day
Bill 
Cloudstreet  SM2K 331

Re: New Shower Curtains for SM s

Ann-Sofie, S/Y Lady Annila <ann-sofie@...>
 

You un-screw the stops atched at end if the slide where the curtain is hanging. As you do to dis-mount the other curtains in the boat.

Then you move the small plastic thingies from the old to the new. 
If you need to replace, you can most likely find new ones in a shop for curtains.

Regards
Ann-Sofie
S/Y Lady Annila, SM232


Skickat från min iPhone

27/12/2021 kl. 17:01 skrev George Green via groups.io <gdagreen@...>:

Request from my lady wife:

She would appreciate any advice on replacing the shower curtains on our 2004 Amel 2000. In particular how to take down and have new ones made ,with the appropriate attachment points , etc etc.

Many thanks  in advance

George 

SM 434 COCO,  Preveza,  Greece 
Re: Chain counter sensor

Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown
 

Hi Bill,

 

Thanks. Would you happen to know what length of cable I will need for this, or do I not need any cable? I am not on the boat at present.

 

Cheers,

Paul

 

Paul Dowd & Sharon Brown

S/Y Ya Fohi, Amel 54 #98
tel: +44 (0)7710 466619

skype: pauldowd
web: https://my.yb.tl/yafohi

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of CW Bill Rouse
Sent: 17 December 2021 23:56
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Chain counter sensor

 

Paul,

 

The one you listed is for a SM2k and will not work on the Lewmar windlass.

 

The one JLMERTZ listed is an aftermarket replacement for the OEM Sensor for a SM2k. It will not work on your 54.

 

In fact, neither is suitable for your Lewmar 560 chain counter.

 

This is what you need:

 

I hope this helps.


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School

Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 

 

View My Training Calendar

 

On Fri, Dec 17, 2021 at 2:01 PM Paul Dowd and Sharon Brown <paul.dowd@...> wrote:

Hi,

 

Would someone be able to confirm that this is the chain counter sensor I need for A54:

 

https://www.ifm.com/gb/en/product/IB5072

 

 

Cheers,

Paul

 

Paul Dowd & Sharon Brown

S/Y Ya Fohi, Amel 54 #98
tel: +44 (0)7710 466619

skype: pauldowd
web: https://my.yb.tl/yafohi

 


--
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98


--
Cheers
Paul
Ya Fohi - Amel 54 #98
Re: New Shower Curtains for SM s

George Green
 

Request from my lady wife:

She would appreciate any advice on replacing the shower curtains on our 2004 Amel 2000. In particular how to take down and have new ones made ,with the appropriate attachment points , etc etc.

Many thanks  in advance

George 

SM 434 COCO,  Preveza,  Greece 
More on engine replacement

william reynolds
 

I have a new Yanmar 4JH-80. It is a common rail. It was just installed prior to purchase of my boat. It had 14 hours.
I'm old school and almost backed out of the purchase because of the engine. I had heard the stories of common rail engines.
I talked to Yanmar US at great length, and contacted 6 owners of  Yanmar 4JH-80's. Everyone I talked to had had no problems withb their engines.
I finally got a written agreement from the Yanmar dealer in Martinique who had installed the engine that if I had any problem with the engine that they would 
come to me anywhere in the Eastern Caribbean (at their cost) and sort out the issue. This agreement was filed with Yanmar International. I bought the boat.
I now have 300 hours on the engine and operate it exactly as prescribed by Yanmar. So far, no problems. It is quiet, smooth and I can push the boat 
to 10 knots in a flat sea ,if needed. 
Would I recdcommend putting on in your Amel? No. Only a dealer with the proper diagnostic equipment can sort out any problems. There is only one dealer 
in the Eastern Caribbean with this capability. 
Yanmar's  4JH2-HTE is a non turbo, convential engine which I would have preferred. I'm not intimately familiar with the Volvos except parts and maintenance are
pricey. My engine of choice for SM would be the Perkins M92-B which is the newist version of the old Perkins 4-236, a bullit proof, normally asperated convential engine.
The older 4-236 engines are easy to work on, have parts available world wide and I owned or operated dozens of these engines some with over 20 thousand hours. Cost at parts and Power in the BVI is approx 14K US. (Fatty Goodlander has a new Perkins in his boat and  says nothing but glowing things about it) The BETA is another good choice of engine but the wait is long due to the demand. I have no experience with these engines but have talked with many satisfied owners.
Happy Boxing Day
Bill 
Cloudstreet  SM2K 331
Re: Ultra Anchor

Richard Dallett
 

Hello, Paolo,
I just purchased  a 45 kg Ultra for my 2007 A54 and it fit perfectly. For those in the USA, I bought it from Ultra Marine West in Ft. Lauderdale.  They did not know about the Amel discount mentioned by someone previously, but when I mentioned it they immediately offered me a 10% Boat Show discount.
Richard Dallett
A54 Mamba
Re: Ultra Anchor

PAOLO CUNEO
 

Hi all,

I too, am considering to upgrade to an ULTRA for my Whisper(SM 454 ) after the original Buegel failed me twice (admittedly, in 12 years and several thousand miles) So, here comes the ULTRA, on which I have some questions for my Amelians colleagues.

-             Weight. I see that Jean Pierre Germain of ELEUTHERA  is happy with 35 Kg. whilst JLMertz of COTTONBAY  and Victor Molero of ALENDOY opted for 45 Kg. Personally I am inclined for the 45 kg (for no scientific reason other than a supposed peace of mind and a better sleep) What is the thinking behind the decision you made? Also: will the windlass cope with 45 kg. plus maybe 20+ m. vertical chain  in a deep anchorage?

-             Space on the bow roller (with this  I hope to give an indication to Alan Leslie of ELYSE): I produced a home made template (pictured) of the 45 kg, and it seems to fit nicely. However, one word of caution: my bow roller (SM 454 launched jan 2005) seems definitely different from ALENDOY’s: I have no upper plate but a large s/s arch that can accommodate almost every size of anchor (picture)

-             Sourcing: I remember a special offer for ULTRA for Amel owners mentioned many times on this forum, but, for what I can remember, it was limited to a group purchase of at least 10 pcs. Any experience after that?

 

Many thanks in advance for all tips you will like giving me

Greetings to all members of our community.

Paolo Cuneo

SM 454 WHISPER


--
Paolo Cuneo
SM 454 Whisper
Re: Older style C-Drive; oil type and temperature

CW Bill Rouse
 

Mike,

In order to be completely clear to everyone in the group, I believe that you are referring to the Aluminum case C-Drive which was short-lived and replaced by the GRP case C-Drive. And, to be clear, there have been at least two versions of the GRP case. I am sure that there are other modifications like the increased shaft size beginning with hull 43 on A55s.

I have been aboard many SMs, 54s, & 55s. The GRP C-Drive will normally get to the operating temperature of the main engine, or about 80C. I believe this temperature exists because of some heat transfer from the main engine, rather than any internal heat generated. I assume that some heat is transferred to seawater because the C-Drive is in contact with seawater. This transfer would be greater with aluminum than with GRP.

Bill 

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   

On Sun, Dec 26, 2021 at 1:53 PM Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy) <svtrilogy53@...> wrote:
Hello Everyone,

Just following up on this thread with some information sent to me from Amel. This is in regards to the older style C-Drive, in case it's relevant for anyone else out there:

"The recommended oil for the C-drive is 15W40 and you need 8 liters. It is not recommended to use a thicker oil on this system. It is true that there are some confusing discussions about this issue especially on the different social networks.

We have no exact operating temperature value of the C-drive  but it should be between 60 and 70 °C. There are many parameters to be taken into account when doing a temperature test (for instance the outside T° can influence the result).

AMEL has never launched any retrofit campaign regarding the replacement of your system with iron units. This operation is mainly considered when the aluminum C-drive fails and breaks and that there is no other alternative. The cost of the new system (including Upper and lower C-drive unit) is around 20 000 euros without labor and requires high skilled mechanical engineers to do the work. If the maintenance on your C-drive is correctly performed and if there no sign of dysfunction there is no reason to proceed with a replacement.

At last, it is indeed  better to repower your boat with an engine rated 78hp or close to it to avoid any excessive mechanical stress on the C-drive."

Cheers,
Mike Longcor
SV Trilogy SM23
NZ


On Wed, Nov 3, 2021, 7:55 AM Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy) via groups.io <svtrilogy53=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hello everyone,

I'm curious if anyone out there still has the old aluminium C-Drive installed in their SuperMaramu?

Is the 80-90 gear oil recommended for both C-Drives (aluminium and cast iron)?

What is the operating temperature range for the C-Drive (how hot should the upper gearbox get while motoring)?

I'm also asking Amel these questions and will respond here with any useful answers I get back. I have a feeling there aren't many aluminium C-Drives still out there...

Cheers,
Mike Longcor
SV Trilogy - SM23
NZ
Re: Clearing Custom's in Miamai

Michael & Robyn
 

Greetings!

US CBP introduced a new version of the ROAM application.
https://www.cbp.gov/travel/pleasure-boats-private-flyers/pleasure-boat-overview/roam

We were able to use the previous version for a German flagged vessel with one or more none US citizens or residents.
It makes it a lot easier to provide the vessel and crew information with the app than to spend an hour on the phone with customs.
And it is a lot less painful for both sides than to spell every foreign name and city.
As foreigners we still need to come into a customs and immigration office in person.
Brunswick Georgia is a very simple procedure and very friendly officers. It is in walking distance from Brunswick Landing Marina.
They may not respond back in the ROAM app but they have all the data at hand when you show up in the CBP office
I believe the proper sequence is customs first and then immigration. (Doesn't matter in Brunswick since it is one office)
Let me know if you need help filling out the customs form
https://www.cbp.gov/document/forms/form-1300-vessel-entrance-or-clearance-statement?_ga=2.2541043.2120511789.1640554754-765413041.1640554754


Kind regards & Good Luck
--
Michael & Robyn

SY RIPPLE SM2K # 417
Brunswick GA USA
Re: Older style C-Drive; oil type and temperature

Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy)
 

Hello Everyone,

Just following up on this thread with some information sent to me from Amel. This is in regards to the older style C-Drive, in case it's relevant for anyone else out there:

"The recommended oil for the C-drive is 15W40 and you need 8 liters. It is not recommended to use a thicker oil on this system. It is true that there are some confusing discussions about this issue especially on the different social networks.

We have no exact operating temperature value of the C-drive  but it should be between 60 and 70 °C. There are many parameters to be taken into account when doing a temperature test (for instance the outside T° can influence the result).

AMEL has never launched any retrofit campaign regarding the replacement of your system with iron units. This operation is mainly considered when the aluminum C-drive fails and breaks and that there is no other alternative. The cost of the new system (including Upper and lower C-drive unit) is around 20 000 euros without labor and requires high skilled mechanical engineers to do the work. If the maintenance on your C-drive is correctly performed and if there no sign of dysfunction there is no reason to proceed with a replacement.

At last, it is indeed  better to repower your boat with an engine rated 78hp or close to it to avoid any excessive mechanical stress on the C-drive."

Cheers,
Mike Longcor
SV Trilogy SM23
NZ


On Wed, Nov 3, 2021, 7:55 AM Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy) via groups.io <svtrilogy53=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hello everyone,

I'm curious if anyone out there still has the old aluminium C-Drive installed in their SuperMaramu?

Is the 80-90 gear oil recommended for both C-Drives (aluminium and cast iron)?

What is the operating temperature range for the C-Drive (how hot should the upper gearbox get while motoring)?

I'm also asking Amel these questions and will respond here with any useful answers I get back. I have a feeling there aren't many aluminium C-Drives still out there...

Cheers,
Mike Longcor
SV Trilogy - SM23
NZ
Re: Serafine is sold

Mohammad Shirloo
 

Hello and Welcome to the Amel Family Roland and Paul. You will find the people in this forum an amazing group of people that will go out of their way to assist other fellow Amelians, and their knowledge invaluable. As an interesting aside, when we first started looking about 8 years ago, the first A54 that we saw was named Aventura. You’ll be happy to know that she is still named the same by another contributor to this forum.

 

Amels will take good care of the crew and are amazing adventure machines. Wishing you the best on your new adventure.

 

Happy Sailing;

 

 

Mohammad and Aty

B&B Kokomo

AMEL 54 #099

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Roland Mueller via groups.io
Sent: Sunday, December 26, 2021 10:21 AM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Serafine is sold

 

Hello,

 

I’ve bought Serafine together with my good old study mate Paul Estermann. We renamed her to AVENTURA and she‘s flying the Swiss flag since 15 November 2021.

Im very happy owning such a beautiful sailing yacht.

I’ve followed this forum since a while and find it extremely interesting. Lots of new things to learn.

I wish Hajo and Julia all the best in their new journey on land.

 

Fair winds,

Roland Mueller 

SM150 AVENTURA 

 



On 26 Dec 2021, at 17:53, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:



Hajo,

 

You and Julia were two of the finest people we met on our tour of the world. If you remember the last time we met we were in the Canary Islands.

 

Judy says hi.

 

I know that Serafine will be well-cared for by her new owners.

 

Bill

 

 

On Sun, Dec 26, 2021 at 10:42 AM Hajo Hille <amw08@...> wrote:

Dear Amel Yacht Owners,

 for your information:

 After 11 years of sailing with our Super Maramu “Serafine” we sold her. Now she is on the way under a new name to new adventures.

 I want to say Thank You to all members of this group, while they stood for help and advice, whenever we had a technical problem with our yacht. This forum is matchless !

 Especially I like to thank Bill Rouse, whom I was lucky enough to meet in Turkey, while we were moored in the same bay. He gave me the first lessons in repairing and maintaining my Super Marmu after I had destroyed my bowthruster. Kind regards to Judy, too.

 

 For 2022 we wish you all the best, fair winds and a hands breadth of water under the keel.

Stay healthy !

 

Hajo und Julia

SM 150 Serafine

 

 
Re: Serafine is sold

Roland Mueller
 

Hello,

I’ve bought Serafine together with my good old study mate Paul Estermann. We renamed her to AVENTURA and she‘s flying the Swiss flag since 15 November 2021.
Im very happy owning such a beautiful sailing yacht.
I’ve followed this forum since a while and find it extremely interesting. Lots of new things to learn.
I wish Hajo and Julia all the best in their new journey on land.

Fair winds,
Roland Mueller 
SM150 AVENTURA 


On 26 Dec 2021, at 17:53, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:


Hajo,

You and Julia were two of the finest people we met on our tour of the world. If you remember the last time we met we were in the Canary Islands.

Judy says hi.

I know that Serafine will be well-cared for by her new owners.

Bill


On Sun, Dec 26, 2021 at 10:42 AM Hajo Hille <amw08@...> wrote:

Dear Amel Yacht Owners,

 for your information:

 After 11 years of sailing with our Super Maramu “Serafine” we sold her. Now she is on the way under a new name to new adventures.

 I want to say Thank You to all members of this group, while they stood for help and advice, whenever we had a technical problem with our yacht. This forum is matchless !

 Especially I like to thank Bill Rouse, whom I was lucky enough to meet in Turkey, while we were moored in the same bay. He gave me the first lessons in repairing and maintaining my Super Marmu after I had destroyed my bowthruster. Kind regards to Judy, too.

 

 For 2022 we wish you all the best, fair winds and a hands breadth of water under the keel.

Stay healthy !

 

Hajo und Julia

SM 150 Serafine

 

 
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