Date   

Parts delivery

william reynolds
 

LS Saildrive parts were delived to Cloudstreet Alaska style
(See photo)
Merry Xmas to all - stay safe and healthy in 2020
Bill - Cloudstreet
SM2K 331


Re: Water maker hose in the Bahamas

Patrick McAneny
 

In my previous post ,I meant to say 150 liters/ hr. Although 1500 would be nice. Pat


Re: Water maker hose in the Bahamas

Patrick McAneny
 

It turned out not to be such a problem to get a new hose made up as I feared. I contacted a hydraulic shop in Nassau owned by a guy named Justin. He made it up ,put it on the mailboat and had it by 830 the next morning. I wished all my problems were so quickly resolved. I have lost about 150 liters per hr. production unless I crank up the pressure a bit more than I had to before. I cleaned the pre filter,by that did not help. No big deal at least I am making water at 1500/Liters happy with that.
Thank everyone for their advice, I should have investigated a source before posting.
Thanks Again,
Pat
SM Shenanigans
Eleuthera Bahamas 


Re: Hard carbon brush for Sharki genoa furler motor

JB Duler
 

Cameron, I bought all sorts of carbon brushes, different sizes and fittings, on Amazon US site. Some of them I had to grind the sides with sans paper.
You enter the size
https://www.amazon.com/Rannb-Motor-Carbon-Brushes-Makita/dp/B07GSSKCQQ
good luck
--
John Bernard "JB" Duler
San Francisco
Meltem # 19, Western Med


Re: Sirocco II Caframo cooling fan location and how to install properly.

rossirossix4
 

Hi Chris,
I am assuming you also saw our post about aft hatch ventilation using the Sirocco II.  If you are considering that position (we think it is the most important fan on our boat) we were able to access 24V power wires by removing the wood panel on the aft bulkhead.  Posting is here    https://amelyachtowners.groups.io/g/main/message/61304

Bob and Suzanne, KAIMI SM429


Re: Looking for information on 1998 SM La Querida

MANUEL ERNST
 

Oops, Never mind. Saw that it is for sale for a long time and found that there’s already a thread on this page. Thank you!!


Manuel


Looking for information on 1998 SM La Querida

MANUEL ERNST
 

Hi to the Amel community!!
Does anyone have some info on this Super Maramu? It came up on YachtWorld yesterday, but has very limited information. https://www.yachtworld.com/yacht/1998-amel-super-maramu-2000-8170874/

Thank you so much

Manuel
future Amel owner 


Hard carbon brush for Sharki genoa furler motor

Cameron Burness
 

Hope someone can help.
I am looking to get new hard carbon brushes for the furler on my sons Sharki. 
Any advice on potential replacements and where to get in either the UK or Panama.
My son is currently in Panama, Bocas del Toro, and I will shortly be travelling from the UK to meet him.
Attached is a photograph he sent me and dimensions, length 25mm, 9mm width and 12mm depth.
Any help you can give will be appreciated.
Thanks 
Cameron and Craig
Daal II Sharki #97 - Bocas del Toro


Re: Older style C-Drive; oil type and temperature

Dan Carlson
 

On SM #387, with a newer design c-Drive and larger 100hp Yanmar, I have also recorded similar temperatures.  If I'm motor-sailing at 1600-1800 rpm the temp at the top of the c-Drive may be 60C, at 2000rpm it's closer to 70C and 2200-2400rpm It gets closer to 80C. 

Last season was my third year on the same shaft seals. If I ran longer an hour at 2000rpm or more then I would start to see some milky oil coming up the return line into the top of the reservoir. This would settle out between runs and would not come up if I was running less that 2000 rpms, no matter how long. This leads me to believe that the circulation of the oil (at least any water in the oil) may be somewhat driven by temperature. 

I had lots of extra oil 80/90 oil as I had purchased a 5 gallon container from NAPA auto parts in anticipation of my next oil change (cost less than $80 US). So when I saw "cream" in the reservoir, while it was still hot, I would drain the reservoir, refill with clean oil, then I used a 6.5 liter fluid extractor (suction) on the return hose (top), to suck a couple more liters off of the top of the c-Drive gear box. This got me thru the end of the season when I did a proper oil and seal change. At that time I found that the retaining spring on the outermost oil seal had broken and that is the seal that is supposed to keep the water out. The inner two seals were still in good shape so water ingress was minimal. 

Best regards Daniel and Lori Carlson on sv BeBe, SM #387 


On Thu, Dec 30, 2021, 4:48 PM Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy) <svtrilogy53@...> wrote:
Hi Bill,

On SM hull #23, the part of the C drive that is in the water (aft end of the keel), is GRP. It does have differences from newer drives like the oil drain bolt is on the port side rather than below the prop shaft. The upper gearbox that is visible in the engine room is aluminium. On the newer models, the upper gearbox visible in the engine room is larger and made of iron. I've attached photos of each one. Rusty one is iron, naturally.

I took temperature measurements and must conclude that heat is generated by the C-Drive itself. The Hurth gearbox, drive shaft, Vetus coupling, and all parts connecting the top of the C-Drive to the engine are cooler than the engine and the C-Drive.

Below 2000rpm, the C-Drive measured around 70C at its hottest spot. At higher revs, I measured just under 80C. Between the engine and C-Drive, I was getting measurements from 40C to 60C. As Amel said, there are a lot of parameters to take into account when taking temperature measurements of the C-Drive. There are also variabilities and inaccuracies with using a temp gun, but it gives a ballpark idea.

To summarize the oil recommendations as I understand them:
Smaller aluminium gearbox C-Drive gets 15W-40.
Larger cast iron gearbox C-Drive gets 80-90.

I've never seen or heard about an all aluminium C-Drive until now. Very interesting.

I hope this serves to eliminate confusion rather than create it.

Cheers,
Mike Longcor
SV Trilogy SM23
NZ


On Mon, Dec 27, 2021, 1:30 PM CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
Mike,

In order to be completely clear to everyone in the group, I believe that you are referring to the Aluminum case C-Drive which was short-lived and replaced by the GRP case C-Drive. And, to be clear, there have been at least two versions of the GRP case. I am sure that there are other modifications like the increased shaft size beginning with hull 43 on A55s.

I have been aboard many SMs, 54s, & 55s. The GRP C-Drive will normally get to the operating temperature of the main engine, or about 80C. I believe this temperature exists because of some heat transfer from the main engine, rather than any internal heat generated. I assume that some heat is transferred to seawater because the C-Drive is in contact with seawater. This transfer would be greater with aluminum than with GRP.

Bill 

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   
On Sun, Dec 26, 2021 at 1:53 PM Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy) <svtrilogy53@...> wrote:
Hello Everyone,

Just following up on this thread with some information sent to me from Amel. This is in regards to the older style C-Drive, in case it's relevant for anyone else out there:

"The recommended oil for the C-drive is 15W40 and you need 8 liters. It is not recommended to use a thicker oil on this system. It is true that there are some confusing discussions about this issue especially on the different social networks.

We have no exact operating temperature value of the C-drive  but it should be between 60 and 70 °C. There are many parameters to be taken into account when doing a temperature test (for instance the outside T° can influence the result).

AMEL has never launched any retrofit campaign regarding the replacement of your system with iron units. This operation is mainly considered when the aluminum C-drive fails and breaks and that there is no other alternative. The cost of the new system (including Upper and lower C-drive unit) is around 20 000 euros without labor and requires high skilled mechanical engineers to do the work. If the maintenance on your C-drive is correctly performed and if there no sign of dysfunction there is no reason to proceed with a replacement.

At last, it is indeed  better to repower your boat with an engine rated 78hp or close to it to avoid any excessive mechanical stress on the C-drive."

Cheers,
Mike Longcor
SV Trilogy SM23
NZ


On Wed, Nov 3, 2021, 7:55 AM Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy) via groups.io <svtrilogy53=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hello everyone,

I'm curious if anyone out there still has the old aluminium C-Drive installed in their SuperMaramu?

Is the 80-90 gear oil recommended for both C-Drives (aluminium and cast iron)?

What is the operating temperature range for the C-Drive (how hot should the upper gearbox get while motoring)?

I'm also asking Amel these questions and will respond here with any useful answers I get back. I have a feeling there aren't many aluminium C-Drives still out there...

Cheers,
Mike Longcor
SV Trilogy - SM23
NZ


Re: Sirocco II Caframo cooling fan location and how to install properly.

Chris Paul
 

Thanks Colin & Bill,
Time to find the light circuit wiring and drill some holes in the woodwork.

Regards, Chris Paul (0427788800)


On Friday, 31 December 2021, 03:03:47 am NZDT, Bill Kinney <cruisingconsulting@...> wrote:


Chris,


I suspect that fan locations were an option from Amel, since I have seen boats with many, and with none.

The Scirocco fans are a huge improvement over the Hella fans that were used by the factory. They last a long time, throw a lot of air, and are quiet.

They come with a baseplate that attaches the the wall, which the fan then attaches to.  They include a piece of thick double sided tape to attach the plate, which is also screwed down.  The tape is not strong enough to hold the fan by itself so the screw are needed.  But do not be tempted to skip the tape, it plays an important part in noise an vibration damping.

The lighting circuit is the best power source.  It runs along both sides of the boat, and is fairly easy to access from the cable chases. 

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Fort Lauderdale, FL


Re: Older style C-Drive; oil type and temperature

Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy)
 

Hi Bill,

On SM hull #23, the part of the C drive that is in the water (aft end of the keel), is GRP. It does have differences from newer drives like the oil drain bolt is on the port side rather than below the prop shaft. The upper gearbox that is visible in the engine room is aluminium. On the newer models, the upper gearbox visible in the engine room is larger and made of iron. I've attached photos of each one. Rusty one is iron, naturally.

I took temperature measurements and must conclude that heat is generated by the C-Drive itself. The Hurth gearbox, drive shaft, Vetus coupling, and all parts connecting the top of the C-Drive to the engine are cooler than the engine and the C-Drive.

Below 2000rpm, the C-Drive measured around 70C at its hottest spot. At higher revs, I measured just under 80C. Between the engine and C-Drive, I was getting measurements from 40C to 60C. As Amel said, there are a lot of parameters to take into account when taking temperature measurements of the C-Drive. There are also variabilities and inaccuracies with using a temp gun, but it gives a ballpark idea.

To summarize the oil recommendations as I understand them:
Smaller aluminium gearbox C-Drive gets 15W-40.
Larger cast iron gearbox C-Drive gets 80-90.

I've never seen or heard about an all aluminium C-Drive until now. Very interesting.

I hope this serves to eliminate confusion rather than create it.

Cheers,
Mike Longcor
SV Trilogy SM23
NZ


On Mon, Dec 27, 2021, 1:30 PM CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
Mike,

In order to be completely clear to everyone in the group, I believe that you are referring to the Aluminum case C-Drive which was short-lived and replaced by the GRP case C-Drive. And, to be clear, there have been at least two versions of the GRP case. I am sure that there are other modifications like the increased shaft size beginning with hull 43 on A55s.

I have been aboard many SMs, 54s, & 55s. The GRP C-Drive will normally get to the operating temperature of the main engine, or about 80C. I believe this temperature exists because of some heat transfer from the main engine, rather than any internal heat generated. I assume that some heat is transferred to seawater because the C-Drive is in contact with seawater. This transfer would be greater with aluminum than with GRP.

Bill 

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   
On Sun, Dec 26, 2021 at 1:53 PM Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy) <svtrilogy53@...> wrote:
Hello Everyone,

Just following up on this thread with some information sent to me from Amel. This is in regards to the older style C-Drive, in case it's relevant for anyone else out there:

"The recommended oil for the C-drive is 15W40 and you need 8 liters. It is not recommended to use a thicker oil on this system. It is true that there are some confusing discussions about this issue especially on the different social networks.

We have no exact operating temperature value of the C-drive  but it should be between 60 and 70 °C. There are many parameters to be taken into account when doing a temperature test (for instance the outside T° can influence the result).

AMEL has never launched any retrofit campaign regarding the replacement of your system with iron units. This operation is mainly considered when the aluminum C-drive fails and breaks and that there is no other alternative. The cost of the new system (including Upper and lower C-drive unit) is around 20 000 euros without labor and requires high skilled mechanical engineers to do the work. If the maintenance on your C-drive is correctly performed and if there no sign of dysfunction there is no reason to proceed with a replacement.

At last, it is indeed  better to repower your boat with an engine rated 78hp or close to it to avoid any excessive mechanical stress on the C-drive."

Cheers,
Mike Longcor
SV Trilogy SM23
NZ


On Wed, Nov 3, 2021, 7:55 AM Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy) via groups.io <svtrilogy53=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hello everyone,

I'm curious if anyone out there still has the old aluminium C-Drive installed in their SuperMaramu?

Is the 80-90 gear oil recommended for both C-Drives (aluminium and cast iron)?

What is the operating temperature range for the C-Drive (how hot should the upper gearbox get while motoring)?

I'm also asking Amel these questions and will respond here with any useful answers I get back. I have a feeling there aren't many aluminium C-Drives still out there...

Cheers,
Mike Longcor
SV Trilogy - SM23
NZ


Re: Sirocco II Caframo cooling fan location and how to install properly.

Bill Kinney
 

Chris,

I suspect that fan locations were an option from Amel, since I have seen boats with many, and with none.

The Scirocco fans are a huge improvement over the Hella fans that were used by the factory. They last a long time, throw a lot of air, and are quiet.

They come with a baseplate that attaches the the wall, which the fan then attaches to.  They include a piece of thick double sided tape to attach the plate, which is also screwed down.  The tape is not strong enough to hold the fan by itself so the screw are needed.  But do not be tempted to skip the tape, it plays an important part in noise an vibration damping.

The lighting circuit is the best power source.  It runs along both sides of the boat, and is fairly easy to access from the cable chases. 

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Fort Lauderdale, FL


Re: Sirocco II Caframo cooling fan location and how to install properly.

Colin - ex SV Island Pearl
 

We put 11 in, one above every bunk position = 6, 2 in saloon, one at chart table, and 1 in each heads.
Excellent, used daily during our circumnavigation on a SM, simple to install with instructions, and used the light power cables.
Ours were almost always on as they used near-zero power. 
We sold our SM and now have these in our RV as well - best investment out!
Best of luck
Colin
Ex SV Island Pearl II
SM - Brisbane

On Thu, Dec 30, 2021 at 12:48 PM Chris Paul via groups.io <chris__paul=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi,
I could not find any information about this so I hope someone can help me.
I have just bought 2 Sirocco DC fans with 2 more on order.
I am unsure about preferred locations and unsure of the best method to install them.
My questions:
  •     How many fans do other Amel SM's have?
  •     What locations? 
  •     How to install? 
    • drill holes into timber???Emoji
    • where should the power come from? (probably a nearby light)
    • do I need any electrical parts
  •     Does anybody use portable DC or maybe AC blade-less fans?


Regards, Chris Paul 
Yacht Glazig
SM 352
Whangarei, NZ
(+61427788800)



--
Colin Streeter
0411 016 445


Sirocco II Caframo cooling fan location and how to install properly.

Chris Paul
 

Hi,
I could not find any information about this so I hope someone can help me.
I have just bought 2 Sirocco DC fans with 2 more on order.
I am unsure about preferred locations and unsure of the best method to install them.
My questions:
  •     How many fans do other Amel SM's have?
  •     What locations? 
  •     How to install? 
    • drill holes into timber???Emoji
    • where should the power come from? (probably a nearby light)
    • do I need any electrical parts
  •     Does anybody use portable DC or maybe AC blade-less fans?


Regards, Chris Paul 
Yacht Glazig
SM 352
Whangarei, NZ
(+61427788800)


Re: New Engine

James Rainsbury
 

Dear Everyone, thank you so much for all your useful advice and opinion. We certainly have lots to think about! 
Best wishes and a Happy New Year
James

Folie a Deux
SM #239
Southampton UK


Re: Problem with the valve on the watermaker 100 DUO

Lior Keydar
 

Gary and Bill

Thanks a lot for your comments.
The belt tension is ok and it is the case that the 24V motor runs faster than the 220V. I will check the capacitor. Martin told me that the capacitor is only there for the starting of the motor and not for the speed but I will definitely try it.

Lior
A54 #18, SHARONA


Re: Water maker hose in the Bahamas

Bill Kinney
 

Pat,

I don’t have a specific answer for you, but if you are in Spanish Wells, you are surrounded by the Bahamas high seas lobster fishing fleet.  Every one of those boats has many hydraulic systems onboard. Just ask any of the locals, in our experience they are VERY helpful and friendly.  If they don’t know who does hydraulic repairs locally, they will point you to someone who does know.  I would very much expect a local can help, but the absolute WORST cast you’ll have to go to Freeport.

Hydraulic hoses suitable to replace your leaking HP hose are a very simple and inexpensive thing to source.  Having one shipped in will cost a mint.  

Before you have the hose replaced, be sure to examine the two fittings the hose connects to.  A common failure failure mode here is pitting corrosion of the mating surfaces of BOTH the hose and the fixed fitting.  If the fixed fitting is AT ALL corroded, scratched, cracked, or otherwise damaged it will need to be replaced as well from the same source.

If one hose has failed, it might be worth replacing the other one as well as a preventative matter.  

When installing the new fittings it is not good enough just get them “tight”. It is completely possible to over-tighten these and crack the sealing flare. Follow this procedure EXACTLY:

  1. Assemble the fittings. Using Loctite on the sealing surface (not the threads!) is helpful, but not absolutely required. You can always add it later if it can’t be found locally.
  2. Screw down the female nut until finger-tight. At this point the seat is making contact. You can double-check by trying to wiggle the tube portion of the female fitting. You should not be able to feel any movement. If there is movement, try tightening the nut again while wiggling the tube. If the nut won't turn any further by hand, and things are still moving, look for the reason why the nut stopped short. 
  3. Mark the fittings. Using a permanent marker, draw a line on one flat of the hex on the male fitting and a matching line on the female nut (the two lines should line up). This is your reference mark. 
  4. Tighten the fittings. Using two wrenches to avoid torquing the fixed fitting, tighten the female nut 1/4 turn, or 1.5 hex flats. Check your reference marks to be certain that the nut has been tightened 1/4 turn. STOP.  If it leaks when this tight something is wrong and more torque is rarely the answer.
Bill Kinney
SM160,  Harmonie
Fort Lauderdale, FL 


Re: Problem with the valve on the watermaker 100 DUO

Bill Kinney
 

I’m guessing that you have tried this already, but just in case:  check belt tension!

If you have a laser tachometer check the speeds and compare 24v vs 220v and 220v motor shaft vs it’s specification.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Fort Lauderdale, FL


Re: Water maker hose in the Bahamas

Eric Freedman <kimberlite@...>
 

Patrick,

Just make sure that the hydraulic hoses they use are not reinforced with any form of steel mesh. Many have a blue hose that is rated for high pressure and they can reuse your JIC fittings. They are expensive.

If they are steel reinforced the steel will rust and really mess up your watermaker.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io On Behalf Of JB Duler
Sent: Tuesday, December 28, 2021 12:56 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Water maker hose in the Bahamas

 

Patrick,

Ask the local contractors or county officials where they get their tractors, bulldozers fixed. Any machine with hydraulics or large compressors must change their high pressure hoses on a regular basis. Believe me, they don't send the hoses back to the manufacturers. Small shops have the right fittings, the hoses and the small machine required to fit the hardware to the hose.
--
John Bernard "JB" Duler
San Francisco
Meltem # 19, Western Med


Re: New Engine

Teun BAAS
 

I donated my old engine to the local (NEW CALEDONIA) Maritime School; they happily accepted.

 

Best Regards Teun

SV AMELIT  A54  #128

 

HOPE ISLAND MARINA (near BRISBANE) QLD AUSTRALIA

December 28, 2021 15:21:52

 

You can follow AMELIT via this link: https://forecast.predictwind.com/tracking/display/AMELIT

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Danny and Yvonne SIMMS via groups.io
Sent: Friday, December 24, 2021 14:29
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] New Engine

 

Thanks for your comments Trevor. I stripped all the ancillary parts off the old engine and left the rest with the Volvo dealer.

Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean pearl

On 25/12/2021 08:18 Trevor Lusty <trevlusty@...> wrote:

 

 

James,
           Check  with several of your local area Volvo dealers if there is a trade in value for your old  Volvo engine. The Irish Volvo dealer was using this as a ruse to justify substantial discounting of smaller Volvo engines in spring of this year.

If I had a choice it would be BETA all the way because it is Kubota, it's simple, strong and reliable, parts easily sourced,  what else would you want?
It also comes with a five year self service warranty. I have come across boats with thousands of hours on Betas and no problems.

My first choice for the past thirty years has always been Yanmar.

The only engine ever to give me trouble was Volvo - BUT - Danny's words can't be argued with, I have read dozens of his posts over the years on mechanical issues and he is always right on the money.

He is bang on about the ease of installation, which on a SM will save you a fortune. My wife and I replaced our gearbox at sea off the coast of Mexico and it was straightforward.

Good luck.

Trevor Lusty
Ireland

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