Date   

Re: In Mast Furling

Laurens Vos
 
Edited

As we planned also new sails we looked and asked around a bit. We came in contact with Elvstrom. They did gave us good advice and bring us in contact with an Amel 54 owner who already have their fully battened sails.
He is sailing with them for more as two years and is VERY happy with them. Never had any problems with furling. He’s so much happy with this sails that for his planned trip to Cape Horn he ordered the same new sails but in a more heavy quality. 
This information gave us so much confidence in the Elvstrom quality that we ordered the same sails as well. Only difference is for us not in black but in white.
They will be delivered this spring so we’re very curious if it’s all worth the investment. 
I have attached the pictures and also our quotation.

Laurens Vos
Fun@Sea
A 54 / 72
La Rochelle 


Re: Autopilot and other questions

Thomas Wink
 

Hi Ben,

7. On my 1979 Maramu I had to make the access points myself. The tanks has 4 dividers, so I had to make 4 access points. I consider it a possibility that the tank is not original though..

On Thu, 6 Jan 2022, 19:26 Ben Levy, <benjamin.levy@...> wrote:
Happy new year to all and everyone!

I have recently purchased an Amel Maramu 1981 and I am still trying to figure out what is what, what does what and what is original and what is not.
I have a few questions I was hoping some of you would be able to help me with.

1. Regarding the steering, is it hydraulic or just cables? Anyone can enlighten me please.

2. I currently have the original NECO auto pilot, is it (easily) possible to install a 2nd more modern auto pilot with a linear drive attached to the rudder quadrant? If not, what have people with such vintage boats done?

3. I can't figure out what this is for (circled in red in the photo bellow). It is in the aft cabine, just next to the rudder. It's a hollow tube, which doesn't seem to have any fonction. The plate it is attached to on the right hand side (also circled in red) is rusty, which would make me believe it isn't original. The board numbered 1 green on the photo is not only screwed in but also finer glassed on one side, so I can't remove it to see whether the tube goes anywhere or does anything. Anyone has an idea? Can I remove it? It wold be a good location for a linear drive unit (if I can install one...)
 

4. I found these in the boat spare parts. They have the amel logo on them, but I can't figure out what they are and what they are being used for?


5. Same with the 2 levers circled on the photo, what are they, what do they do, what is the on and the off position?


6. What about this big piece of metal which goes from the aft (into the fibreglass), under the bed and disappear into the fibreglass next to the rudder stock? Is it linked to the SSB? Is it for grounding?


7. Can anyone confirm whether there is or there is not an access to the fuel tank? It seems unlike amel not to have thought of that and I was wondering whether underneath the wooden board which sits on top on the fuel tank there would be an access (I haven't checked for myself yet as electronics has been installed on top of it and it will turn into a mission to remove it.)

8. I was told that the chain (like a cycle chain) linking the wheel to the NECO autopilot needed to be tightened. But I can't think of anyway to do so? Is it actually doable or does it need to be entirely replaced?


Thank you all so much for your help. I have to admit being a little overwhelmed by the boat and how different it is to any other boat I know...
Cheers,
Ben

Maramu #98, KUJIRA


Re: Autopilot and other questions

rob dillmann
 

Dear Ben,
2. That will take some time..I will be on the boat at the end of April…
3. You don’t need cables.  It is just an adjustable stop (the bolts stop the quadrant).
7. Yes, they are on top of the tanks, around 15-20 cms in diameter. The starboard tank is under the berth in the passage (in the mango it is) and you need to remove the bottom of that to get access. We have had both tanks cleaned via that. 
Best regards,
Rob
Westwind Mango 43


Verstuurd vanaf mijn iPhone

Op 9 jan. 2022 om 00:20 heeft Ben Levy <benjamin.levy@...> het volgende geschreven:

Thank you for your reply.
2. Would you be able to send me a few photos of your 2nd auto pilot installation, I would be really interested to see where/how it can be fitted next to the NECO!
3. Does it mean that I should reattache cables between the bolts and the rudder? or is the rubber quadrant "banging" on the bolts? is that how it work?
7. So the fuel access is located on top of the tank, right? Do you have any idea how big it is?

Cheers,
Ben


Re: Genoa car control wheel

Eric Freedman <kimberlite@...>
 

There is a member on this group that makes magnificent Stainless steel Cars.

If you plan on using the Amel cars, make sure you use something like duralac or some other material that will not allow the stainless to corrode into the aluminum.

 

Personally , I would search the group and find the Stainless cars and keep the Amel ones as a spare.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io On Behalf Of Thomas Kleman
Sent: Saturday, January 08, 2022 7:35 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Genoa car control wheel

 

On SM 422 (SV L’ORIENT), Ive replaced both genoa car control wheels as they corroded and fractured. This job was complicated by the fact that they were aluminum and in contact with the stainless steel rod mounting, and held in place by stainless steel screws. The corrosion was such that cutting tools were required just to get it off the mounting. I got my replacement wheels from Amel but Im concerned about this dissimilar metal issue. Im hoping someone has a creative solution.

Thomas Kleman
SV L’ORIENT
Society Islands


Re: Genoa car control wheel

Bill Kinney
 

There is no need for a complicated solution,  Just make sure that all the places that stainless and aluminum touch are coated in TefGel.  It works. 

I have been using this for 20 years, it solves the problem. 

Bill Kinney
SM160, Haromine
Fort Lauderdale, FL


Re: Autopilot and other questions

Giorgio Ardrizzi
 

Hi Ben
Question 3: that's right, the only function of the pipe is to stop the rudder quadrant. The bolts allow you to adjust the stroke end on both sides of the blade.  Nothing else.

Giorgio Ardrizzi
Sharki #1 Saudade III
Currently in Guadeloupe 

   


Il Sab 8 Gen 2022, 19:20 Ben Levy <benjamin.levy@...> ha scritto:
Thank you for your reply.
2. Would you be able to send me a few photos of your 2nd auto pilot installation, I would be really interested to see where/how it can be fitted next to the NECO!
3. Does it mean that I should reattache cables between the bolts and the rudder? or is the rubber quadrant "banging" on the bolts? is that how it work?
7. So the fuel access is located on top of the tank, right? Do you have any idea how big it is?

Cheers,
Ben


Re: In Mast Furling

Joerg Esdorn
 

Further to my post above, I spoke with a friend who is in the process of ordering a Hallberg Rassy.  I’m fact, HR offers three choices of furling mainsails, no battens, short vertical battens, and full length vertical battens.  They tell prospective owners that the sail with full length battens should only be furled downwind if the boat is on the tack where the battens are to windward on the sail.  If the boat is on the other tack, the battens may prevent the sail from furling into the mast because they are pressed against the mast and may jam in the groove.  So they recommend a battenless sail for world girdling.  Martin, have you had no issues with furling downwind?  

Joerg Esdorn
A55 #53 Kincsem
Currently in La Rochelle 


Genoa car control wheel

Thomas Kleman
 

On SM 422 (SV L’ORIENT), Ive replaced both genoa car control wheels as they corroded and fractured. This job was complicated by the fact that they were aluminum and in contact with the stainless steel rod mounting, and held in place by stainless steel screws. The corrosion was such that cutting tools were required just to get it off the mounting. I got my replacement wheels from Amel but Im concerned about this dissimilar metal issue. Im hoping someone has a creative solution.

Thomas Kleman
SV L’ORIENT
Society Islands


Re: From 230V to 120V #alignment

Bertrand Quénot
 

Warm thank you to everyone for your contributions.
Thanks Eric for your guidance.
Thanks Bill for the clear and helpful abstract of your Amel book
I now have 220V from the dock on board and with the jumper a flexible solution that I can use again where needed.

Le 7 janv. 2022 à 19:38, Eric Freedman <kimberlite@...> a écrit :

Hi Bertrand.
Just take your 16 amp female plug and add a piece of what we would call 12 gauge twisted wire to the plug, Basically get a wire cable that has wires equal to or bigger that what you currently have. You can usually get a black rubber coated 3 wire cable at an electrical supply or a good hardware store. Make sure it is stranded wire, it does not have to be marine tinned wire. You only need 3 feet. If the colors are not blue and brown in the piece of wire don’t worry you just need 3 colors one being green. Open your male plug and just match the colors in the male plug to the female plug if they are blue and brown, if they don't match don’t worry. Just make sure that you hook the new cable with the green wire to the same place on the female plug. I am not on the boat for a week but if I remember the green wire goes to the largest hole in the female plug and is connected to the biggest pin on the male plug of your boat.

The 50 amp plug is made for a much heavier gauge wire so it can carry 50 amps. Usually 6 or 8 gauge. That is why the holes are so large. Now that you have the female end open and connected , connect the other end of the wire to the 50 amp twist lock.
Don’t forget to put the cap on the wire before doing the wiring. The 50 amp plug usually has 4 screws . each color coded. To open the connector on some there are a few screws near the plug prongs themselves.
Connect the green to the green, and then one wire to the black, and the other wire to the red. There is no connection to the white connector. Your cable should only have 3 wires in it. If you can only find a 4 wire cable just cut the white one off at both ends.
Male sure the connections are tight. Leave a little slack in the wires under the cap so the cable and its rubber coating will be inside the cap. Put a very big cable tie on the cable to act as a strain relief. Once you have the connector assembled you will find that there is a big hole in the cap intended for a much bigger wire.
Just fill the hole generously with silicone sealant , don’t be shy with that.

Now to the circuit breaker issue. You have a 50 amp power supply with a 50 amp circuit breaker going through a thinner wire to a much smaller circuit breaker in the boat. There is a possibility that if there is a short in the cable
The 50 amp breaker will not trip and there could be a fire in the cable.

I think on some models Amel added a circuit breaker just inside the hull where the wire enters. If you have this then no worries.

As a temporary measure I would not worry about it.
My only issue is that you say your boat has a 16 amp plug on it.
I don't remember what mine is.
Please check the main circuit breaker on the electrical panel on my 53 it is on the side of the AC panel. 16 amps seems very small for the load that the boat could use.
It is possible that the previous owner changed out the larger European connector for a smaller one.
If that is the case, then just change out both connectors to the larger ones.

I just wish I were on board to see what connectors I used for Kimberlite.
I have an amp monitor that I built for Kimberlite (photo above) . I have never seen it go to more than 12 amps.
Fair Winds
Eric
Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376








-----Original Message-----
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io On Behalf Of Bertrand Quénot
Sent: Friday, January 07, 2022 6:56 PM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] From 230V to 120V #alignment

Eric,
I have a second hand twist lock plug available. It comes from à US boat and has a shirt cord sealed. Don’t know for sure it is a 50A and wire sections are far bigger than on mine.
All the colours you mentioned are here.
My cord ends with a 16A male plug. I have a 16A female plug available. I also have available 32A male and female plugs.
What I don’t get is the reason why I would need a circuit breaker on the line if I create a jumper as there is a circuit breaker on board at the end of the shore cord.
Bertrand











<4.jpg>


Re: Autopilot and other questions

Ben Levy
 

Thank you for your reply.
2. Would you be able to send me a few photos of your 2nd auto pilot installation, I would be really interested to see where/how it can be fitted next to the NECO!
3. Does it mean that I should reattache cables between the bolts and the rudder? or is the rubber quadrant "banging" on the bolts? is that how it work?
7. So the fuel access is located on top of the tank, right? Do you have any idea how big it is?

Cheers,
Ben


Re: Autopilot and other questions

Ben Levy
 

Thank you for your reply.
3. That's interesting. If I understand properly, originally there would have been 2 cables running from the 2 bolts to the rudder quadrant, right? Which must have been removed, then.
6. Yes the boat came with an SSB radio, so you must be right about that.
7. I'll take a few photos once on the boat later this week
8. That was also my first thought but I had a quick look at it and I couldn't see any slotted holes. I'll have another look.

cheers,
Ben


Re: Onan 6500 genset can't put out rated power, output fluctuates

Craig Briggs
 

Bill, David -
Good points Bill.  I think I may have read David's original post a bit differently -  not that the engine speeds up or slows down a lot or for very long, but that it is simply "unloading" as the output drops off and then it is "lugging down" as the load then comes back on. That is, it is just a normal lag of the governor which one would see if you, say, flipped on a very large load. RPM's will momentarily drop as the governor quickly - but not instantaneously - feeds more fuel to keep the engine at 1500 (or 1800) rpm, the governor being a mechanical device with a discrete response time.

Perhaps David can shed more light on this that might help home in on engine vs. generator.
--
Craig Briggs - s/v Sangaris / SN68  Tropic Isle Harbor, FL


Re: Onan 6500 genset can't put out rated power, output fluctuates

Bill Kinney
 

David,

If the engine speed is changing, I would guess that the likely problem IS with the engine side. The engine speed is mechanically governed, and shouldn’t vary more than a few percent under any load.  As the engine speed varies, the frequency of the power will change as well. This can put some of the plugged in equipment at risk of damage.

I think it is unlikely that the engine power output could be half normal without other problems. But DO check fuel availability.  A weak primary fuel pump, or clogged fuel filter could be the issue by choking the engine when it demands more fuel to maintain speed under higher load. If there is sufficient fuel, then the governor and/or injection pump are the next candidates.

It is also possible that there is something wrong with the electrical control of the generator that is overloading the engine, but I can’t think what that might be, assuming that the voltage stays in specification before the engine starts to struggle.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Fort Lauderdale, FL


Re: Autopilot and other questions

Bill Kinney
 

I see Rob has already beat me to the update I have…

#3:  the empty metal pipe holds the rudder stops.  I was just helping someone with an Amel Sharki, and the system was the same there. A bit easier to figure out in person than with a photo!


Re: Mizzen staysail for A55

Olivier Beaute
 

Hello Joerg,

the only purpose of the front mizzen mast halyard is the bosun's chair (as you know, it's better to use a halyard that is inside the mast for climbing up the mast).

See you in April.

Cheers.
Olivier


Re: A54 Tumble-drier

Germain Jean-Pierre
 

Hello Arno,

Look up the solution Robin Hutter brought to his boat. Unable to find a suitably sized washer for my SM, I converted the wet locker into a new washer dryer location. Brilliant solution!

Robin has also removed his dryer altogether and replaced the washer with a washer dryer unit. I believe he is very satisfied with the results

Kind regards,

Jean-Pierre Germain, Eleuthera, SM007, NZ




On 8 Jan 2022, at 13:27, Bertrand Quénot <bertrand@...> wrote:



Arno,

Eventually I tried to repair my existing tumble drier instead of chasing a compatible new one.

I ordered the heating element you found on eBay and replaced the old one.

And it worked !

Extracting the original drier out of its niche and putting it back in I realised how tricky it would be to find another drier fitting into this available space as it has been modified by cutting one back corner.

Hope i twill last for long now.

Bertrand

SV ANTINEA A54 #43


Re: Mizzen staysail for A55

Joerg Esdorn
 

Thanks very much, Olivier.  The tack is supposed to be attached to the chainplates for the lower shrouds. I take your point that the mizzen mast wasn't designed for a mizzen staysail and I'm checking with the designer whether it's ok to add one.  I have had the mizzen up in very strong winds on a reach or downwind so I'm hoping that I won't need runners for the mizzen staysail in light air.  I'm figuring that the max for that sail will be below 15 kn TWS in any event.  But even if I need runners, I have the second utiity halyard which I could just rig to the windward cleat aft, right?  

I also appreciate your point about the risk of chafe for the halyard.  I am intrigued, however, by the utility halyard on the mizzen that exits the mast forward.  If not for a mizzen staysail, what was it designed to be used for?  

Cheers Joerg

PS: I'll be back in LR in April and hope to meet you in person then!  


Re: From 230V to 120V #alignment

hanspeter baettig
 

Jose
negative
don‘t write things you don‘t fully understand.
In Europe we have on the 3 phase system never 440 Volt. Its not 2* of 220 Volt. We have 380 Volt. Don‘t matter , because on Amels we have never 3 phase electrical systems.
Cheers
Hanspeter
SM16, Tamango 2

------ Original Nachricht ------
Am Freitag, 7. Jan, 2022 um 21:05, Jose Venegas via groups.io<josegvenegas@...> schrieb:

Bertrand,

In most of the american continent, mono(single) phase AC current runs at 110 V 60 Hz with one cable life and the second neutral relative to ground. Thera are 30 amps and 60 amp outlets. However most marinas the 60 Amp outlets have three phase AC current involving 3 phases (live cables) and one neutral. The voltage between any phase and the neutral cable is 110V and between any two phases is 220 V. The voltage between the neutral and ground is 0. In Europe three phase AC current has 220V between any phase and neutral and 440V between any two phases. So, in most american marinas they can connect your two cables (live and neutral) to two phases of the AC three-phasic cables that are both “live” relative to ground.
My SM2000 was originally made for an american customer and included a 110 to 220 transformer. When you convert 110 to 220 with a transformer, the current you draw from the 110 outlet is twice that used at 220 by your boat. So if you run more than one air conditioner and the microwave oven or a battery charger using more than 15 amp at 220 you end up tripping the shore power outlet of 30 amp. For that reason I have always connected to the 3-phase outlets in american marinas that allow my boat to draw up to 30 amps at 220 without tripping the shore power.
NEVER had an problem and all marinas, including those in Panama, were willing to do it and I have never had a problem with it.

Hope this help

Jose Venegas
Ipanema SM2k currently in RedFrog Marina, Panama


Re: From 230V to 120V #alignment

Eric Freedman <kimberlite@...>
 

Kimberlite was delivered from the factory with 2 dolphin chargers capable of 50/60 cycles.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io On Behalf Of Scott SV Tengah
Sent: Friday, January 07, 2022 8:06 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] From 230V to 120V #alignment

 

Bertrand, 

Yes, I replaced my Dolphin chargers with a Victron Quattro 120amp/5kw inverter and a Victron Skylla 80 amp second charger.

I am not sure if the Dolphin can take 60hz - you can google the specs or look at the manual to find that, I am sure.

We have lithium, so we run everything on the inverter. Microwave, washing machine, AC, water heater, induction, boiler, scuba compressor, etc.

--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Re: From 230V to 120V #alignment

Eric Freedman <kimberlite@...>
 

Hi Bertrand.
Just take your 16 amp female plug and add a piece of what we would call 12 gauge twisted wire to the plug, Basically get a wire cable that has wires equal to or bigger that what you currently have. You can usually get a black rubber coated 3 wire cable at an electrical supply or a good hardware store. Make sure it is stranded wire, it does not have to be marine tinned wire. You only need 3 feet. If the colors are not blue and brown in the piece of wire don’t worry you just need 3 colors one being green. Open your male plug and just match the colors in the male plug to the female plug if they are blue and brown, if they don't match don’t worry. Just make sure that you hook the new cable with the green wire to the same place on the female plug. I am not on the boat for a week but if I remember the green wire goes to the largest hole in the female plug and is connected to the biggest pin on the male plug of your boat.

The 50 amp plug is made for a much heavier gauge wire so it can carry 50 amps. Usually 6 or 8 gauge. That is why the holes are so large. Now that you have the female end open and connected , connect the other end of the wire to the 50 amp twist lock.
Don’t forget to put the cap on the wire before doing the wiring. The 50 amp plug usually has 4 screws . each color coded. To open the connector on some there are a few screws near the plug prongs themselves.
Connect the green to the green, and then one wire to the black, and the other wire to the red. There is no connection to the white connector. Your cable should only have 3 wires in it. If you can only find a 4 wire cable just cut the white one off at both ends.
Male sure the connections are tight. Leave a little slack in the wires under the cap so the cable and its rubber coating will be inside the cap. Put a very big cable tie on the cable to act as a strain relief. Once you have the connector assembled you will find that there is a big hole in the cap intended for a much bigger wire.
Just fill the hole generously with silicone sealant , don’t be shy with that.

Now to the circuit breaker issue. You have a 50 amp power supply with a 50 amp circuit breaker going through a thinner wire to a much smaller circuit breaker in the boat. There is a possibility that if there is a short in the cable
The 50 amp breaker will not trip and there could be a fire in the cable.

I think on some models Amel added a circuit breaker just inside the hull where the wire enters. If you have this then no worries.

As a temporary measure I would not worry about it.
My only issue is that you say your boat has a 16 amp plug on it.
I don't remember what mine is.
Please check the main circuit breaker on the electrical panel on my 53 it is on the side of the AC panel. 16 amps seems very small for the load that the boat could use.
It is possible that the previous owner changed out the larger European connector for a smaller one.
If that is the case, then just change out both connectors to the larger ones.

I just wish I were on board to see what connectors I used for Kimberlite.
I have an amp monitor that I built for Kimberlite (photo above) . I have never seen it go to more than 12 amps.
Fair Winds
Eric
Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

-----Original Message-----
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io On Behalf Of Bertrand Quénot
Sent: Friday, January 07, 2022 6:56 PM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] From 230V to 120V #alignment

Eric,
I have a second hand twist lock plug available. It comes from à US boat and has a shirt cord sealed. Don’t know for sure it is a 50A and wire sections are far bigger than on mine.
All the colours you mentioned are here.
My cord ends with a 16A male plug. I have a 16A female plug available. I also have available 32A male and female plugs.
What I don’t get is the reason why I would need a circuit breaker on the line if I create a jumper as there is a circuit breaker on board at the end of the shore cord.
Bertrand

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