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Re: Super Maramu Heaving To sail combination?
David Vogel
Greets,
Having tried various combinations with headsail out (various %s, and backed), we always seem to fall off and end up too far off the wind, and may be also broadside to the waves, resulting in more rolling motion. And making way. Our last attempt upon arrival NZ, I tried 1/3 mizzen out, and backed, with no main or genoa – this seemed to work, but it was only for about an hour in stable wind-se conditions, so cannot yet recommend, but this is where I will start next time. Best, David SM#396, Perigee NZ From: <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Kevin Schmit <kevschmit64@...> Reply-To: <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> Date: Wednesday, 19 January 2022 at 5:08 am To: <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Super Maramu Heaving To sail combination? I haven’t had the opportunity to try it yet but thought I’d ask other SM owners what sail combo works best when Heaving To? -- Kevin & Kristen Schmit KIANA SM #362
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Re: Super Maramu Heaving To sail combination?
Our SM has an inner forestay, we use the staysail and mizzen.
If you don't have a staysail, a partially furled headsail to produce similar windage to the mizzen would work. Too big a headsail will make the bow blow off and turn you around in circles. Cheers Alan Elyse SM437
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Re: Check your GPS / AIS devices. Some of them failed on Jan 2, 2022 due to the "GPS Rollover" bug
Greg Thomas
Scott,
I had a quick search and couldn't find any extra details for advanced configuration of the Prolific driver. Unfortunately, usb-to-serial adapters are notorious for messing up the hardware handshaking lines. Rather than modifying your DB9 cable, and in light of the limited hardware resources in your current location, you might be able to make a temporary patch between the Female DB9 socket on the serial-to-usb adapter, and the Male DB9 plug on the end of your cable? You'd need three wires going pin-to-pin between the two DB9 connectors (Gnd pin5, Rx pin2 and Tx pin2) and then two wires to do the loop-back from pin4-to-pin6 and pin7-to-pin8 on the USB end. It only needs to work once.
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Re: Check your GPS / AIS devices. Some of them failed on Jan 2, 2022 due to the "GPS Rollover" bug
Scott SV Tengah
Thanks, I looked at the Windows 10 device manager driver configuration for the Prolific USB-to-Serial Comm Port (port settings) and it does allow me to set flow control.
I tried the 3 options:
And unfortunately, none of them allowed the Furuno upload utility to connect to my GP150. Any ideas?
From: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Greg Thomas <gregthomasesq@...>
Scott, -- Scott 2007 A54 #69 SV Tengah http://www.svtengah.com
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Re: Check your GPS / AIS devices. Some of them failed on Jan 2, 2022 due to the "GPS Rollover" bug
Greg Thomas
Scott,
You may be able to configure the driver for the RS232-USB adapter to emulate the DTR->DSR and RTS->CTS loop-back functionality?
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Re: Check your GPS / AIS devices. Some of them failed on Jan 2, 2022 due to the "GPS Rollover" bug
Scott SV Tengah
Correct, it has to do with flow control You have to jumper, on the PC side:
pins 4 (DTR) and 6 (DSR) pins 7 (RTS) and 8 (CTS)
I did not attempt it because we are in the Tuamotus right now and I use output from my GP-150 to feed opencpn and navigate via satellite overlays. The data from the GP-150 is noticeably superior to any other GPS device onboard and I need all the precision I can get in some of these bommie fields!
I believe it requires some pretty precision soldering on the DB9 connector. Unless you think there’s a different way to achieve it? Keep in mind the DB9 then goes through a serial-usb converter before going to my computer, so no guarantee that the converter will correctly translate the modified signals.
From: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Dean Gillies <stella@...>
Scott, I'm assuming that the problem is hardware flow control, which can be bypassed in the wiring with various techniques. Which pins did you jump to make it work? -- Scott 2007 A54 #69 SV Tengah http://www.svtengah.com
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Re: Check your GPS / AIS devices. Some of them failed on Jan 2, 2022 due to the "GPS Rollover" bug
Scott, I'm assuming that the problem is hardware flow control, which can be bypassed in the wiring with various techniques. Which pins did you jump to make it work?
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Re: Super Maramu Heaving To sail combination?
Mizzen and staysail if you have one or Mizzen and head sail if you don’t
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Cheers 🥂
On Jan 18, 2022, at 12:08 PM, Kevin Schmit <kevschmit64@...> wrote:
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Super Maramu Heaving To sail combination?
I haven’t had the opportunity to try it yet but thought I’d ask other SM owners what sail combo works best when Heaving To?
-- Kevin & Kristen Schmit KIANA SM #362
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Re: Machining AMEL-specific tools in NZ (outhaul puller PLUS wrench for the rudder-post-packing nut)
Keith Tice
Hi David, I am interested in the rudder packing nut wrench. Cheers, Keith Tice Bikini SM282 Calvi, France
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Re: Check your GPS / AIS devices. Some of them failed on Jan 2, 2022 due to the "GPS Rollover" bug
Hi Alain,
Make sure there is nothing else connected to the hub apart from your PC and the AIS. It will fail otherwise. Regards, Arno Luijten SV Luna, A54-121
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Re: Check your GPS / AIS devices. Some of them failed on Jan 2, 2022 due to the "GPS Rollover" bug
Scott SV Tengah
Are you using Windows? Try turning off all the Windows firewalls.
As an aside, I tried to update my GP-150 on my own. I got the software and instructions and had to edit the batch file to refer to the right com port. I got further along but it still didn’t work.
It turns out you need to jumper 2 pairs of pins in the DB9/serial/rs232 port. There’s a wiring diagram in the update instructions but I learned that just because your DB9 port works right now to feed NMEA data to your computer doesn’t mean that the DB9 cable is setup correctly to update the GP-150. I reached out to Furuno and they told me they had to make a connector themselves, carefully soldering the 2 pairs of wires together inside the DB9 connector. That’s a one-off modification that is necessary solely to update the GP-150!
Long story short, we are too remote right now to risk damaging our only DB-9 cable and losing the ability to feed our positionally correct GP-150 data to our computer, so I am not going to risk it.
From: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Chantal & Alain sv Makemo <Alainrue@...>
Hello Scott, -- Scott 2007 A54 #69 SV Tengah http://www.svtengah.com
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Re: Raising Boot Stripe
Alan "Woody" Wood
Hi Elaine and Michael
We raised the boot line on Mothership and did a maintenance blog on how we did it. Hope it helps - https://youtu.be/8QEAIdavdLU
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Re: Machining AMEL-specific tools in NZ (outhaul puller PLUS wrench for the rudder-post-packing nut)
David Vogel
Hi Raul,
Re: BCE Precision Ltd on Port Rd in Whangarei, Great, thanks. Terry from ASM was my first choice, but he is still on Christmas vacation. So I’ll try these guys tomorrow. Best, David From: <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Raul Schleier <raul.schleier@...> Reply-To: <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> Date: Tuesday, 18 January 2022 at 2:53 pm To: <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Machining AMEL-specific tools in NZ (outhaul puller PLUS wrench for the rudder-post-packing nut) Hi David, Just for your reference…..below is a photo of the puller that I borrowed from my friendly Amel neighbour, Charlie on Gemma. All credits to him and hopefully I haven’t infringed on his copyright. He said he welded it together from some pieces of steel bars and rods and nuts. Perhaps not the prettiest thing but I don’t think that was the intention. It can be dismantled and it works which is the most important feature. If I’d owned a welder I’d probably put together a similar contraption. If you’re still looking for machine shops, I had that little engine/c-drive alignment tool fabricated at BCE Precision Ltd on Port Rd in Whangarei last year (NZD$230 incl GST). I haven’t tried it yet, but those guys can probably fabricate the puller too. Cheers Raul SM2k #344
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Re: New sails [cross-cut * Nautosphere VOYAGER v tri-radial HydraNet]
David Vogel
Hi all,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Thanks to you all for your answers and additional inputs – all very good info. We’re still considering our options, and will do some cruising up and down the East coast of the NZ North Islands while we deliberate. Best, David SM#396, Perigee Whangarei, NZ
On 7/12/21, 3:58 pm, "David Vogel" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io on behalf of david.vogel@...> wrote:
Greetings all, After 5 years and ~25,000nm, our sails are starting to show their age, and so we are now scoping replacements. Mainly UV-damage to the leech area of the main and mizzen, the main- and mizzen-sails that were on the boat at purchase had no UV-protection. Which (we have discovered) is an oversight that we should have recognised and had corrected early on, especially once we started sailing full-time in the tropics (where we have now been continuously for >4 years). Being tri-radial cut, it is not so easy to re-cut the sail/s to eliminate the compromised fabric, which is a shame because, apart from the outer 30cm, the remaining fabric is still sound. We will be continuing to cruise in the tropics for the foreseeable future. Meaning, that laminates are out of consideration. Explanation: we have seen too many cruisers (and heard even more stories) of those paying for expensive state-of-the-art so-called "cruising laminates", only to have them start to de-laminate after only a season or two. The cause, seen more often in the tropics, seems to be that the laminating manufacturing process used to sandwich the various fabrics together, uses heat to melt and/or cure the glue, and the temperatures used are deliberately kept low in order to protect the fabric from thermal damage during manufacture, being only slightly higher than 100ºC. The in-mast temperatures reached when sails are furled, especially in the tropics, approaches or exceeds this temperature. The situation is, reportedly, worse with in-mast furling systems (as opposed to slab-reefing). This is as explained by several long-term cruising sailors with vastly more experience than us. It makes sense, and aligns with what we have seen over the past few years. Conclusion: no laminates for us. Which leaves us with more conventional dacron-based woven sail-cloth, including hybrids that utilise high-modulus fibers such as "Ultra-PE" (Ultra-Polyethylene, such as Spectra or Dyneema yarns), which is introduced in order to improve strength and shape stability - once such sailcloth being HydraNet. I have heard that HydraNet starts to lose it's dimensional stability after a few years (maybe as short as 3-4 years), firstly becoming soft to handle, and then baggy. Which creates problems firstly for sail performance, and then also for in-mast furling systems. Which leads me to ... QUESTION 1: Does anyone have experience with Hydranet sails beyond 5-7 years? The use-case here being full-time live-aboard cruising, meaning, permanently rigged (not removed for the off season, nor on-anchor, as we have to ready to sail-away at a moments notice; and we generally avoid marinas, so the sails are on 365 days a year); mileage: 3,000 to 5,000nm a year, all-weather blue-water passage-making in the topical (hotter) and mid-latitudes (greater likelihood of encountering stronger than gale-force). === Next, the cut of the sail ::: traditional best practice within the AMEL community is to use a TRI-RADIAL cut - in addition to aligning the high-modulus fibres to the load (mainly vertically, roughly parallel to the leech, radiating from the head, tack and clew), this allows the use of differing weight fabric around the sail - heavier at the foot and leech where there are greater loads for fully-unfurled conditions, and needing to bear a greater load in stronger wind-condition when the sail is partially furled; and lighter sailcloth in the luff areas, less loading under fully unfurled conditions, and less likely to be exposed to high winds (because it should furled away) that would permanently deform a lighter fabric. But not easy to re-cut. Meaning that once a sail is 'blown' and starts to deform, or suffers UV-degradation along the leech, it largely becomes a throw-away item. (Proper UV protection in the first place would avoid this, either the paint-on solutions or extra covering such as an extra layer of sailcloth, or Sunbrella or, perhaps preferentially, the lighter WeatherMax.) But the outcome is the same, once UV damaged such that the strength of the outer sailcloth is degraded, even if the rest of the sail-cloth is sound, there is not much that can be done. So, I have now questions about useful life of Tri-Radial HydraNet sails - especially if/as it starts to age, and becomes soft &/or baggy, thereby potentially introducing problems with our in-mast furlers. As a consequence of which I am now starting to look at other contemporary alternatives. Sail construction --> CROSS-CUT. Normally, due to the conventional 'best practice' within the AMEL community, I would not consider this. But there are advantages, it would seem, with cross-cut sails with respect to the 'furl-ability' of the sail. Specifically, because the nearly horizontal seams spiral up the mast as the sail is furled, and hence do not overlap during furling (as is the case for a tri-radial cut sail), cross-cut sails can accommodate a heavier cloth within a given mast profile. However, cross-cut sails do not have the advantage of being able to use heavier cloth in areas of greater load, as is the case for tri-radials - each cross-cut fore-to-aft panel uses the same-weight sail-cloth. Offset against the use of a heavier cloth across all the sail. Type of fabric: "Nautosphere VOYAGER" is a fabric we have just heard of. It is a hybrid fabric (that is, dacron base incorporating high-modulus yarn, in this case, dyneema). Downside, it is not suitable for tri-radial construction - only for cross-cut. It's claim to fame is that the dyneema threads are woven across the bolt of fabric (that is, along the weft), meaning that the strength and dimensional stability of a cross-cut sail built using this fabric will be roughly vertical - that is, approximately parallel to the leech, which is in alignment with the primary load lines. A cross-cut sail made of this fabric can be made of heavier cloth (due to the better furl-ability), meaning greater strength initially and, all other things being equal, greater longevity. And, being a simple cross-cut, simpler construction with a lesser number of panels (and seams, than tri-radial), meaning reduced labour cost. In addition, UV damage at the leech can be more easily re-cut out. Which leads me to ... QUESTION 2: Does anyone have experience in cross-cut sails for the main &/or mizzen for the in-mast furling AMELs, and especially the Super Maramu. QUESTION 3: Does anyone have experience with, or knowledge of, "Nautosphere VOYAGER" fabric? Thank you, in anticipation, for your shared insights and knowledge. David SM#396, Perigee On-the-hard, Riverside Drive Marina Whangarei, New Zealand
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Re: Machining AMEL-specific tools in NZ (outhaul puller PLUS wrench for the rudder-post-packing nut)
Raul Schleier
Hi David, Just for your reference…..below is a photo of the puller that I borrowed from my friendly Amel neighbour, Charlie on Gemma. All credits to him and hopefully I haven’t infringed on his copyright. He said he welded it together from some pieces of steel bars and rods and nuts. Perhaps not the prettiest thing but I don’t think that was the intention. It can be dismantled and it works which is the most important feature. If I’d owned a welder I’d probably put together a similar contraption.
If you’re still looking for machine shops, I had that little engine/c-drive alignment tool fabricated at BCE Precision Ltd on Port Rd in Whangarei last year (NZD$230 incl GST). I haven’t tried it yet, but those guys can probably fabricate the puller too. Cheers Raul SM2k #344
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Re: Fixed Prop installation.
Mohammad Shirloo
Hello Reudi;
Sorry for the late response.
The underwater installation was fairly straight forward with a bit of planning. The step on the keel acts as a great work bench to store the required tools. The main consideration is obviously, how not to lose any parts in the process. If possible, it is best to be tied to a dock somewhere, so if you happen to drop an important part, there is a fair chance of recovery. We were lucky that the first anchorage that we selected on the first day of the season, happened to be right outside an ACI marina in Croatia. So we gently motored to the dock which was less than a 1000 yards away. It also helped that my wife Aty, who is excellent at keeping contact with almost everyone we meet along the way, happened to have the information of a boat that winters in the same marina. A British couple that hooked us up with a diver that happened to be an ex Croatian Special forces with heavy underwater diving and repair experience. Having an additional set of hands underwater, definitely helps.
We took the fixed prop, that was never used, to a another marina with a yard and had them apply speed prop anti-fouling. We then applied some grease to the shaft and the fixed prop slid on without issues. With the help of a rubber mallet and a piece of wood, we hammered the fixed prop as far as it would go and inspected the distance to the line cutter to be sure it had seated properly. A large spanner was used to tighten the nut and then it was further extended with a 3 foot PVC pipe so that we could be sure we had sufficient torque applied underwater. The key on the washer that we had with the prop was a bit different than the picture Bill R had attached. The washer itself had to be bent back at the flat part of the nut, rather being inserted.
It took us about 30 minutes to take the prop off and about 1 hour to put back on. We have not taken the fixed prop yet, so I cannot comment on the removal yet. We will remove this coming season when we haul out. Porter’s solution sounds like a good one. I do have some underwater video, if interested.
Happy Sailing;
Mohammad and Aty B&B Kokomo AMEL 54 #099
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
On Behalf Of Rudolf Waldispuehl via groups.io
Sent: Friday, January 14, 2022 12:56 AM To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Fixed Prop installation.
Hi Amelias
Does anyone experienced the performance of the Original Fixed Prop delivered by AMEL, compared to the Pruntons Autoprop?
@ Mohammad, et all I have seen you installed the fix prop last year. How was the installation? Exactly as Bill believed? How do you removed afterwards without puller? Was it easy to take it off?
Best regards and thanks
Ruedi Waldispuehl SY WASABI AMEL54 #55
Wintering in Almerimar
Von: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
im Auftrag von Mohammad Shirloo <mshirloo@...>
Hi Bill;
Just completed this install under water. Confirm that your depiction is the correct way of installing the fixed prop. Attached please find some pictures of our final installation. Sorry for the blank screens in the screen shots. I have 4 monitors, so that’s how it comes out. But it is easy to zoom in and get a clear picture.
Respectfully;
Mohammad and Aty B&B Kokomo Amel 54 #099
From:
main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
On Behalf Of CW Bill Rouse via groups.io
I would appreciate it if someone who has installed the fixed prop will verify the image below and the correct way to lock the prop in place:
On Mon, Jul 19, 2021 at 7:48 AM Richard May via groups.io <airwisrich2000=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
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Re: Raising Boot Stripe
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Re: 2026 Downwind Circumnavigation Boat Choice: Amel 50 sloop or Amel 55 ketch?
Bruno COTTE
In terms of global practicality and easy maintenance it is very easy :
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The A50 is better than the 55 which is better than the 54 In terms of pure equipment quality after the big problems with the A 54 furlers from Bamar Amel decided to take the best with Reckman for A 55…. But they are very very expensive ! Consequently they took Facnor for the A 50 … Honestly I am not fan . In terms of engine the VW of the A 54 I don’t like , Yanmar is the best Volvo is ok …on the A55 some exotic engines choices make them quite difficult to maintain as the worldwide network for these engines is quite poor … Volvo again is not the best but good in any domain . For the rest You have all the thoughts of us … Good choice …. Envoyé de mon iPhone
Le 17 janv. 2022 à 18:46, Fred Vitale <fredvitale@...> a écrit :
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Re: Fixed Prop installation.
Glad I could help Reudi.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Porter McRoberts S/V IBIS WhatsApp:+1 754 265 2206Www.fouribis.net
On Jan 18, 2022, at 12:29 AM, Rudolf Waldispuehl <Rudolf@...> wrote:
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