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Re: Sharki Rig & Cabin top paint
Millie and Chris,
In the summer of 2001 I unstepped both masts and replaced all the rigging. After restepping, the way I have tensioned the rig has been progressively to sail to stronger winds. While on one tack I'll tighten up on the loose shrouds, tack, then do the same to the other side. All the time, of course, checking that the mast stays perfectly in column. If not, I'll tighten a bit more on the opposite side that the top of the mast is bending off to. Do this first in light winds, then 10 to 15 knots then 15 to 20 knots. Concerning the headstay or backstay, I don't have any systematic way to go about that other than trying to minimize the sag in the headstay foil (and of course keeping the mast in column!). The welded 'tangs' on our Nirvana masts keep the spreaders at a particular angle. Sounds like you have something different. The angle does manner, as you want the spreaders to bisect the angle the shrouds make from the mast attachment tang to the chainplate. They should never droop down. We have a bit of gelcoat on the aft cabin top flake off over time so we sanded this area down and applied the nonskid material Treadmaster SP. It's worked great--still non-skid but much much more human-friendly than the standard Treadmaster pattern. Hope that helps. Richard Xanareva, sharki #127
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[Amel Yacht Owners] SSB Wipe-Antenna
Anne and John Hollamby <hollamby@...>
Message text written by INTERNET:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<If you mean a wire antenna the simple solution is to put ceramic insulators in the starboard mizzen backstay, the top one being about four or five feet down from the top and the lower one being about five feet up from the deck so you do not burn anyone who is using it as a hand hold whilst you are transmitting. The insulators are easily secured to the backstay and totally safe but a bit expensive. The alternative cheap route is to get two ceramic "eggs" like the ones used in the stays of telegraph poles etc but this will not be cheap by the time you have changed the existing rigging wire with a flexible type. Bali Hai was supplied with ground plates and a good copper ground strap already installed together with a wooden plate glassed in to the hull just between the deck and the shelf in the lazarette. This is to secure the antenna tuning unit in a spot where it is possible to connect the copper strap directly and to take the live antenna wire,insulated but not screened, by the shortest route up to the lower insulator to which it should be secured with a tube clip and covered in silicone to try to postpone corrosion of the lead wire. You will probably have to mount the ATU horizontally because of space restrictions, in this event it is a good idea to drill a small drain hole in the lowest part in case some water gets in. There is often such a hole made by the manufacturers in the bottom which is now the side and a blob of silicone would not come amiss. Good luck with it, John Hollamby
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[Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Crash Bar In Front of Galley Stove
Anne and John Hollamby <hollamby@...>
Message text written by INTERNET:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<The crash bar sounds good but you will need a ring welded on at each end to take a webbing safety belt. Bali Hai was suppllied fitted with securing points for a belt between the peninsular unit just to port of the back of the washing machine and opposite on the sink unit. A steel bar across the end might catch parts even more sensitive than ribs. Regards, John and Anne Hollamby
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Electrial bilge pump SMM 2000
Anne and John Hollamby <hollamby@...>
Message text written by INTERNET:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<May I suggest that drilling or better punching a hole in the centre of the upper outlet flap and using a small countersunk machine screw and nut to secure a washer or two on top of the flap to weight it down. I would have thought that a hacksaw blade would be too strong and be subject to severe rusting. Regards from John Hollamby Bali Hai SM319
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e-mail adress
Thomas Neuland <thomas.neuland@...>
Hello postmaster,
i wonder why my e-mail adress shows completely, while the ones from all the others is partially hidden. thanks for keeping this group up. so long tom
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Re: Halogen bulbes life span
Stephan Regulinski
When installing the halogen bulbs, you MUST clean the bulb first with
alcohol and then not touch it with your fingers. This is true even if you remove the bulb from the package without touching it. These bulbs are exceptionally sensitive to contamination. I keep a small bottle of alcohol in the same tupperware box as the spare halogen bulbs. My bulb life is up dramatically. --- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "the Lundstroms" <linneasail@h...> wrote: Untitled DocumentWe have had "Linnea" fore about 9 months (hull#366). We have to change our interior light bulbs all the time (particular the small halogen ones). Even though we try to not have all the lights on, we end up switching out about 2-3 light bulbs per week. the problem is with the "Smart Charger" (an option we bought) because it pushes the voltage up to 28V frequently (when you are on shore power) which is to much for the halogen light bulbs. This makes lots of sense, but it's still frustrating to switch out light bulbs all the time.
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] PROP TURNS WHILE SAILING
Krassopoulos Dimitris <dkra@...>
This is correct. When you start the engine the brake is released when you
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
stop the engine the brake is engaged. On "Alma Libre" I have installed the system in order to load the batteries from the propeller rotating with the engine stopped. It is a switch with a solenoid that do not allow the brake to engage when you stop the engine. Best Regards Dimitris Krassopoulos Mobile GSM: +306944302318 Email: dkra@almalibre.gr <mailto:dkra@almalibre.gr> Web: www.almalibre.gr <http://www.almalibre.gr/>;
-----Original Message-----
From: jfolino901 [mailto:jfolino901@yahoo.com] Sent: Monday, March 31, 2003 12:14 PM To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] PROP TURNS WHILE SAILING MY SM #347 HAS A YANMAR ENGINE AND ZF HURTH TRANSMISSION WITH HYDRAULIC PROP BRAKE. WHEN THE ENGINE IS NOT RUNNING, THE PROP DOES NOT TURN. HOWEVER IF I AM RUNING THE ENGINE IN NEUTRAL WHILE SAILING THE PROP DOES TURN. I SUSPECT ONCE THE ENGINE IS RUNNING AND DEVELOPS HYDRAULIC POWER, THIS RELEASES THE HYDRAULIC BRAKE. COMMENTS, PLEASE. JOHN FOLINO Yahoo! Groups Sponsor ADVERTISEMENT <http://rd.yahoo.com/M=246920.2960106.4328965.1728375/D=egroupweb/S=17050657 92:HM/A=1513704/R=0/*http://www.gotomypc.com/u/tr/yh/cpm/grp/300_02F/g22lp?T arget=mm/g22lp.tmpl> <http://us.adserver.yahoo.com/l?M=246920.2960106.4328965.1728375/D=egroupmai l/S=:HM/A=1513704/rand=381077460> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: amelyachtowners-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>; .
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PROP TURNS WHILE SAILING
jfolino901 <jfolino901@...>
MY SM #347 HAS A YANMAR ENGINE AND ZF HURTH TRANSMISSION WITH
HYDRAULIC PROP BRAKE. WHEN THE ENGINE IS NOT RUNNING, THE PROP DOES NOT TURN. HOWEVER IF I AM RUNING THE ENGINE IN NEUTRAL WHILE SAILING THE PROP DOES TURN. I SUSPECT ONCE THE ENGINE IS RUNNING AND DEVELOPS HYDRAULIC POWER, THIS RELEASES THE HYDRAULIC BRAKE. COMMENTS, PLEASE. JOHN FOLINO
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Information requested on Sharki
Richard Solomon <rsolomon2@...>
Hello all:
I am presently the owner of a Valiant 32, a stout, wonderful cruising sailboat, but a bit small for my needs. We are thinking of moving up, and are considering a Sharki. I would appreciate any information, good or bad, on this model: those of you sailing one, have you been happy with her? Have there been any common problems with an older Sharki (like blisters with some of the early Valiants)? I would also like to know how many have been built, whether the factory is still building them, etc. I know this asks for what may be a lot of information. So, thanks very much in advance for any information or for sources. Fair winds, Richard Solomon; s/v Klarissa; Santa Barbara, California
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KIRK Engine Renault RC 25 CV / Borg Warner gear box
achimschro <Achimschro@...>
Hello members,
does anybody in this group has further experience with this engine type and the Borg Warner hydraulic gear box. My questions are: 1. Does the propeller shaft need to be fixed during sailing or may the prop turn as in the conventional mechanical gear boxes? 2. What type of oil for this gearbox ? 3. Any idea whom to contacht for service in Germany ? Best regards Joachim Kirk # 81 -Assis-
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Re: hull sanding
achimschro <Achimschro@...>
--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Knipping-Werbung@t... wrote:
Dear colleagues,or device is best to do this? Then: What kind of tool or machine isthe best for sanding and preparing the surface above the water linethat I am in Germany and have to buy things here while the ship stays inHallo Martin, wegen der Schleifmaschine kann ich nur zu einer Festo Rotex raten. Ich habe damit eine Osomosesanierung an einem 30qm Unterwasserschiff durchgeührt (kein Amel Schiff!) sowie Rumpf und Deck geschliffen. Für das Schleifpapier sollte man auch Festo -Brilliant- nehmen. Zum abschleifen etwa 120 er für den Zwischenschliff 180er und zum Finish 240er. Die Vorbereitungen für die Lackierung werden rd. 80% der Gesamtzeit betragen. Ich würde meinen, das für den Rumpf oberhalb der Wasserlinie jeweils 15 Scheiben ausreichen müßten. Für den Unterwasserteil rd. 10 Scheiben 80er und 10 Scheiben 120er je nach Qualitätsvorstellung. Für weitere Fragen bitte direkte mail. Gutes Gelingen Joachim
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Re: Storm Tactics for Super Maramu
Stephan Regulinski
I bought a Gale Sail for my SMM (#303) and have used it a number of
times. It the most recent use, we used it to make modest progress in sailing through a 50, gusting 60 storm. The trick in raising this sail is the same as for reefing: raise the sail when it first occurs to you that you might need it. If you wait, you'll be trying to raise it while waves crash over you. (I have done this also and suggest using harness and tether.) My second suggestion is that the genoa sheets by tied off securely well aft of the nav lights. I tied my sheets to the rail at the pulpet and lost the starboard deck-level nav light when waves pounded the coiled sheet into the light. --- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, asm283 wrote: Thanks Richard<br><br>I have seen this product. I always wonderedwhat it would be like to raise this sail in a gale with a good sea. Has anyone tried this.<br><br>Vito
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Re: Notebooks on board for SM electrical wireing
Stephan Regulinski
--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Hanspeter Bättig
<hanspeter.baettig@b...> wrote: Can anyone tell me how he installed his notebook in terms of theelectrical supply. I need to connect 2 notebooks; one in a drawer under the radar and one in the foreward cabin for the children. Is a e.g. 200 W converter (12V/220V the right choise. Were do youconnect the 12 V, maybe from the television panel? Is a converter 24V to 220V availabal on the market. I did not found one so far in Switzerland. Hanspeter BaettigHans, I had Amel install a 24v to 110v inverter in the hanging locker for my US-purchased electronics. The same inverter can be purchased in any combination of 12/24v DC to 110/220v AC. Check the West Marine catalogue or westmarine.com online. It is a pure sine wave inverter and works wonderfully for my printers as well. I bought a 1000W inverter which is a little expensive, but powers everyting. Stephan SM2000 #303
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Electrial bilge pump SMM 2000
Stephan Regulinski
I had my bilge pump overhauled in La Rochelle by Amel when it stopped
pumping after 2.5 years in service. 6 months later, it failed again. I disassembled the pump and found the flap problem that others have described. The flap was in fine shape, it simply failed to close. Not enough "springy-ness" apparently. To solve this problem, I inserted a piece of plastic (cut from a plastic wire tie) behind the flap. This has worked fine so far. If it fails to hold up, I will probably try a piece of spring steel (a piece of used bi- metal hack-saw blade should do it). This is a far sight cheaper than the rebuild kit.
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Re: Crash Bar In Front of Galley Stove
Stephan Regulinski
I have just ordered a crash bar for my Super Maramu 2000 (hull #303),
built to my specifications from a local stainless steel welder here in Stanta Cruz de Tenerife, Los Canarios. He is charging me 60 euros, about $65, and will deliver it to me in two days from the date of order. I will install myself. My design calls for 25mm stainless tubing (same as on rail) welded to 3mm-thick end plates plus two 4mm-thick, threaded backing plates to receive the bolts which will hold the bar to the cabinetry. The backing plates are screwed to the back of the plywood cabinat and hence do not fall down when the bolt holding the crash bar is removed. This backing-plate design is the same as Amel uses, for example, in the nav station where the bolts hold the nav station cabinetry in place. To see the Amel design, remove one of the upper drawers from the nav station. The brass plate is visible in the bottom of the cabinate. It is identical to the plate that holds one of the bolts that pivots the stove. This is a very simple design, very strong, removable (to allow access to the dishwasher) and very inexpensive compared to the Amel solution (which I have not seen). I am also considering a second crash bar that would swing into place and lock with a removable pin to separate the galley from the companionway. We have had two accidents where the person in the galley was thrown to the nav station. Both times, the nav seat broke (instead of my wife's or my ribs!).
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SSB Wipe-Antenna
hns154es <hns154es@...>
I would like to install a Wipe-Antenna for the SSB radio on the back
of our SM. Can somebody tell me the exactly position and the best mounting of it. It would be a great help, if somebody could send a picture of the installation. Thanks a lot and best regards. Hanspeter Wehrli SM #158, hns154es@yahoo.com
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Amel Mango for sale
Bernd W. Rost
Hi Amel Fan´s,
unfortunately my wifes seasickness dos´nt end. Therefor my Amel Mango is for sale. She was built in 1986, she is in excellent condition, she has very low usage (1300 engine hours), no sun-damages on the hull, inside loks like new, she is ready to go. She is lying on the Canaries and can be delivered to US East-Coast or West Indies or Mediterranean. The asking price is 195000 €. For more information send an email to bernd.w.rost@gmx.de or call +49 174 3235014. Yours sincerely Bernd W. Rost
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Fitting an additional Echosounder (In terphase Twinscope)
Shann, Mark V <shannmv@...>
Thanks John & Anne,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Cutting the hole in the hull and fitting the transducer, is this something you would think that I could do without Amel's help? In terms of location, I was thinking along same lines, but presumably this means the new transducer is offset / in front of the speed paddlewheel and original depth transducer. By the way, the Twinscope does come off my last boat and I agree - does not see very far in front, but in the Red Sea on a stormy night - this might help (I have been there before with a lead line, not nice!) cheers Amer.
-----Original Message-----
From: John and Anne on Bali Hai [mailto:hollamby@compuserve.com] Sent: 27 March 2003 14:20 To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Fitting an additional Echosounder (Interphase Twinscope) --- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "amershann" <shannmv@b...> wrote: Hi there, Does anyone have experience with fitting a "thru'hull"a forward and sidewards looking echosounder with a through hulljoin. Help please.Amel retrofitted an Echopilot FLS to Bal Hai. They lifted the floorboard in the forward cabin and put resin/filling on the V of the hull a short distance in front of the web near the the front of that section of bilge,leaving a space about 5cms between the filling and the opening in the web so water can run back. The filling is about 3.5cms high at the aft face and the top was level. They cut a 6mm hole with a hole saw and then made the exterior of the hull good with filling to match the size of the through hull fitting and antifouled it and touched up the white paint in the bilge. I only fitted the FLS as I had removed it fron my previous yacht. I am not impressed with the usefulness of FLS and would certainly not have bought one again if I had not got one. Amel ran the wire aft to the port side of the space above the galley sink. I drilled holes big enough to take the plugs/wires at the back of the FLS on the port side of the cockpit and through the fibreglass below in the port cockpit locker and then fished the wiring through. After connecting the instrument I sealed the two holes around the wires with silicone and pushed the instrument on to the sealant securing the instrument with a picture frame. The FLS is useful at very slow speeds approaching obstructions such as reefs in the S.Pacific. Shelving bottoms do no reflect backwards and there is not enough time to react if there is an obstruction at normal speeds or if there is any current. Good luck with it, John Hollamby, Bali Hai SM319 To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: amelyachtowners-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
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Re: Fitting an additional Echosounder (Interphase Twinscope)
John and Anne on Bali Hai <hollamby@...>
--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "amershann" <shannmv@b...>
wrote: Hi there, Does anyone have experience with fitting a "thru'hull"a forward and sidewards looking echosounder with a through hulljoin. Help please.Amel retrofitted an Echopilot FLS to Bal Hai. They lifted the floorboard in the forward cabin and put resin/filling on the V of the hull a short distance in front of the web near the the front of that section of bilge,leaving a space about 5cms between the filling and the opening in the web so water can run back. The filling is about 3.5cms high at the aft face and the top was level. They cut a 6mm hole with a hole saw and then made the exterior of the hull good with filling to match the size of the through hull fitting and antifouled it and touched up the white paint in the bilge. I only fitted the FLS as I had removed it fron my previous yacht. I am not impressed with the usefulness of FLS and would certainly not have bought one again if I had not got one. Amel ran the wire aft to the port side of the space above the galley sink. I drilled holes big enough to take the plugs/wires at the back of the FLS on the port side of the cockpit and through the fibreglass below in the port cockpit locker and then fished the wiring through. After connecting the instrument I sealed the two holes around the wires with silicone and pushed the instrument on to the sealant securing the instrument with a picture frame. The FLS is useful at very slow speeds approaching obstructions such as reefs in the S.Pacific. Shelving bottoms do no reflect backwards and there is not enough time to react if there is an obstruction at normal speeds or if there is any current. Good luck with it, John Hollamby, Bali Hai SM319
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Sharki Rig & Cabin top paint
milnchris <no_reply@...>
We are in the process of re-fitting our Sharki & have a few queries
that we hoped someone might be able to answer: 1. Rigging. Does anyone have details of recommended tensions for the rig. 2. Mizzen mast. We have had the spreaders off and have put up a radar dome. Is the angle of these spreaders crucial? What should it be? 3. Cabin top. The previous owner had painted the cabin top etc (not the imitation teak) with a white one-pot gloss paint which is very slippery. We would like to remove this and re-paint. Does anyone have any suggestion about this - how do we take the paint off? It is impossible to sand because of the non-skid grooves. Would you use paint stripper? And does anyone recommend a particular brand/type of paint to replace this. Thanks for the help. Cheers Millie & Chris "Sugar", Sharki No. 24
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