Date   

Re: Sharki Rig & Cabin top paint

Zanareva
 

Millie and Chris,
In the summer of 2001 I unstepped both masts and replaced all the
rigging. After restepping, the way I have tensioned the rig has been
progressively to sail to stronger winds. While on one tack I'll
tighten up on the loose shrouds, tack, then do the same to the other
side. All the time, of course, checking that the mast stays
perfectly in column. If not, I'll tighten a bit more on the opposite
side that the top of the mast is bending off to. Do this first in
light winds, then 10 to 15 knots then 15 to 20 knots.
Concerning the headstay or backstay, I don't have any systematic way
to go about that other than trying to minimize the sag in the
headstay foil (and of course keeping the mast in column!).

The welded 'tangs' on our Nirvana masts keep the spreaders at a
particular angle. Sounds like you have something different. The
angle does manner, as you want the spreaders to bisect the angle the
shrouds make from the mast attachment tang to the chainplate. They
should never droop down.

We have a bit of gelcoat on the aft cabin top flake off over time so
we sanded this area down and applied the nonskid material
Treadmaster SP. It's worked great--still non-skid but much much more
human-friendly than the standard Treadmaster pattern.

Hope that helps.

Richard
Xanareva, sharki #127


[Amel Yacht Owners] SSB Wipe-Antenna

Anne and John Hollamby <hollamby@...>
 

Message text written by INTERNET:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<
If you mean a wire antenna the simple solution is to put ceramic insulators
in the starboard mizzen backstay, the top one being about four or five feet
down from the top and the lower one being about five feet up from the deck
so you do not burn anyone who is using it as a hand hold whilst you are
transmitting. The insulators are easily secured to the backstay and totally
safe but a bit expensive. The alternative cheap route is to get two ceramic
"eggs" like the ones used in the stays of telegraph poles etc but this will
not be cheap by the time you have changed the existing rigging wire with a
flexible type. Bali Hai was supplied with ground plates and a good copper
ground strap already installed together with a wooden plate glassed in to
the hull just between the deck and the shelf in the lazarette. This is to
secure the antenna tuning unit in a spot where it is possible to connect
the copper strap directly and to take the live antenna wire,insulated but
not screened, by the shortest route up to the lower insulator to which it
should be secured with a tube clip and covered in silicone to try to
postpone corrosion of the lead wire. You will probably have to mount the
ATU horizontally because of space restrictions, in this event it is a good
idea to drill a small drain hole in the lowest part in case some water gets
in. There is often such a hole made by the manufacturers in the bottom
which is now the side and a blob of silicone would not come amiss.

Good luck with it, John Hollamby


[Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Crash Bar In Front of Galley Stove

Anne and John Hollamby <hollamby@...>
 

Message text written by INTERNET:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<
The crash bar sounds good but you will need a ring welded on at each end to
take a webbing safety belt.
Bali Hai was suppllied fitted with securing points for a belt between the
peninsular unit just to port of the back of the washing machine and
opposite on the sink unit. A steel bar across the end might catch parts
even more sensitive than ribs.

Regards, John and Anne Hollamby


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Electrial bilge pump SMM 2000

Anne and John Hollamby <hollamby@...>
 

Message text written by INTERNET:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<
May I suggest that drilling or better punching a hole in the centre of the
upper outlet flap and using a small countersunk machine screw and nut to
secure a washer or two on top of the flap to weight it down. I would have
thought that a hacksaw blade would be too strong and be subject to severe
rusting.

Regards from John Hollamby Bali Hai SM319


e-mail adress

Thomas Neuland <thomas.neuland@...>
 

Hello postmaster,

i wonder why my e-mail adress shows completely, while the ones from
all the others is partially hidden.

thanks for keeping this group up.

so long

tom


Re: Halogen bulbes life span

Stephan Regulinski
 

When installing the halogen bulbs, you MUST clean the bulb first with
alcohol and then not touch it with your fingers. This is true even
if you remove the bulb from the package without touching it. These
bulbs are exceptionally sensitive to contamination. I keep a small
bottle of alcohol in the same tupperware box as the spare halogen
bulbs. My bulb life is up dramatically.

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "the Lundstroms"
<linneasail@h...> wrote:
Untitled DocumentWe have had "Linnea" fore about 9 months (hull
#366). We have to change our interior light bulbs all the time
(particular the small halogen ones). Even though we try to not have
all the lights on, we end up switching out about 2-3 light bulbs per
week.

When we talked to Amel about it a while back, they explained that
the problem is with the "Smart Charger" (an option we bought) because
it pushes the voltage up to 28V frequently (when you are on shore
power) which is to much for the halogen light bulbs. This makes lots
of sense, but it's still frustrating to switch out light bulbs all
the time.

Does anybody else have the same problem?


S/Y Linnea
Walter Lundstrom



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] PROP TURNS WHILE SAILING

Krassopoulos Dimitris <dkra@...>
 

This is correct. When you start the engine the brake is released when you
stop the engine the brake is engaged. On "Alma Libre" I have installed the
system in order to load the batteries from the propeller rotating with the
engine stopped. It is a switch with a solenoid that do not allow the brake
to engage when you stop the engine.

Best Regards


Dimitris Krassopoulos




Mobile GSM: +306944302318
Email: dkra@almalibre.gr <mailto:dkra@almalibre.gr>
Web: www.almalibre.gr <http://www.almalibre.gr/>;

-----Original Message-----
From: jfolino901 [mailto:jfolino901@yahoo.com]
Sent: Monday, March 31, 2003 12:14 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] PROP TURNS WHILE SAILING


MY SM #347 HAS A YANMAR ENGINE AND ZF HURTH TRANSMISSION WITH
HYDRAULIC PROP BRAKE. WHEN THE ENGINE IS NOT RUNNING, THE PROP DOES
NOT TURN. HOWEVER IF I AM RUNING THE ENGINE IN NEUTRAL WHILE SAILING
THE PROP DOES TURN. I SUSPECT ONCE THE ENGINE IS RUNNING AND DEVELOPS
HYDRAULIC POWER, THIS RELEASES THE HYDRAULIC BRAKE. COMMENTS, PLEASE.
JOHN FOLINO



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PROP TURNS WHILE SAILING

jfolino901 <jfolino901@...>
 

MY SM #347 HAS A YANMAR ENGINE AND ZF HURTH TRANSMISSION WITH
HYDRAULIC PROP BRAKE. WHEN THE ENGINE IS NOT RUNNING, THE PROP DOES
NOT TURN. HOWEVER IF I AM RUNING THE ENGINE IN NEUTRAL WHILE SAILING
THE PROP DOES TURN. I SUSPECT ONCE THE ENGINE IS RUNNING AND DEVELOPS
HYDRAULIC POWER, THIS RELEASES THE HYDRAULIC BRAKE. COMMENTS, PLEASE.
JOHN FOLINO


Information requested on Sharki

Richard Solomon <rsolomon2@...>
 

Hello all:
I am presently the owner of a Valiant 32, a stout, wonderful cruising sailboat, but a bit small for my needs. We are thinking of moving up, and are considering a Sharki. I would appreciate any information, good or bad, on this model: those of you sailing one, have you been happy with her? Have there been any common problems with an older Sharki (like blisters with some of the early Valiants)? I would also like to know how many have been built, whether the factory is still building them, etc.
I know this asks for what may be a lot of information. So, thanks very much in advance for any information or for sources.
Fair winds, Richard Solomon; s/v Klarissa; Santa Barbara, California


KIRK Engine Renault RC 25 CV / Borg Warner gear box

achimschro <Achimschro@...>
 

Hello members,

does anybody in this group has further experience with this engine
type and the Borg Warner hydraulic gear box.

My questions are:

1. Does the propeller shaft need to be fixed during sailing or may
the prop turn as in the conventional mechanical gear boxes?

2. What type of oil for this gearbox ?

3. Any idea whom to contacht for service in Germany ?

Best regards

Joachim
Kirk # 81 -Assis-


Re: hull sanding

achimschro <Achimschro@...>
 

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Knipping-Werbung@t... wrote:
Dear colleagues,

we are going to repaint the surface of our ship's (Euros 41 from
1975) hull below and above the water line. So first of all the
fouling has to be removed. What kind of machine and sanding paper
or
device is best to do this? Then: What kind of tool or machine is
the
best for sanding and preparing the surface above the water line
without damaging the gelcoat or removing intact layers of paint.
There are too many kinds and grain types of sanding papers, nets,
brushes etc. I just cannot decide what to buy. One problem being
that
I am in Germany and have to buy things here while the ship stays in
Greece.
--
With best regards, Martin
Hallo Martin,

wegen der Schleifmaschine kann ich nur zu einer Festo Rotex raten.

Ich habe damit eine Osomosesanierung an einem 30qm Unterwasserschiff
durchgeührt (kein Amel Schiff!) sowie Rumpf und Deck geschliffen.

Für das Schleifpapier sollte man auch Festo -Brilliant- nehmen. Zum
abschleifen etwa 120 er für den Zwischenschliff 180er und zum Finish
240er. Die Vorbereitungen für die Lackierung werden rd. 80% der
Gesamtzeit betragen. Ich würde meinen, das für den Rumpf oberhalb der
Wasserlinie jeweils 15 Scheiben ausreichen müßten. Für den
Unterwasserteil rd. 10 Scheiben 80er und 10 Scheiben 120er je nach
Qualitätsvorstellung.

Für weitere Fragen bitte direkte mail.

Gutes Gelingen

Joachim


Re: Storm Tactics for Super Maramu

Stephan Regulinski
 

I bought a Gale Sail for my SMM (#303) and have used it a number of
times. It the most recent use, we used it to make modest progress in
sailing through a 50, gusting 60 storm. The trick in raising this
sail is the same as for reefing: raise the sail when it first occurs
to you that you might need it. If you wait, you'll be trying to
raise it while waves crash over you. (I have done this also and
suggest using harness and tether.) My second suggestion is that the
genoa sheets by tied off securely well aft of the nav lights. I tied
my sheets to the rail at the pulpet and lost the starboard deck-level
nav light when waves pounded the coiled sheet into the light.

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, asm283 wrote:
Thanks Richard<br><br>I have seen this product. I always wondered
what it would be like to raise this sail in a gale with a good sea.
Has anyone tried this.<br><br>Vito


Re: Notebooks on board for SM electrical wireing

Stephan Regulinski
 

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Hanspeter Bättig
<hanspeter.baettig@b...> wrote:
Can anyone tell me how he installed his notebook in terms of the
electrical supply. I need to connect 2 notebooks; one in a drawer
under the radar and one in the foreward cabin for the children.
Is a e.g. 200 W converter (12V/220V the right choise. Were do you
connect the 12 V, maybe from the television panel? Is a converter
24V to 220V availabal on the market. I did not found one so far in
Switzerland.
Hanspeter Baettig
SM#16
Hans,

I had Amel install a 24v to 110v inverter in the hanging locker for
my US-purchased electronics. The same inverter can be purchased in
any combination of 12/24v DC to 110/220v AC. Check the West Marine
catalogue or westmarine.com online. It is a pure sine wave inverter
and works wonderfully for my printers as well. I bought a 1000W
inverter which is a little expensive, but powers everyting.

Stephan
SM2000 #303


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Electrial bilge pump SMM 2000

Stephan Regulinski
 

I had my bilge pump overhauled in La Rochelle by Amel when it stopped
pumping after 2.5 years in service. 6 months later, it failed
again. I disassembled the pump and found the flap problem that
others have described. The flap was in fine shape, it simply failed
to close. Not enough "springy-ness" apparently. To solve this
problem, I inserted a piece of plastic (cut from a plastic wire tie)
behind the flap. This has worked fine so far. If it fails to hold
up, I will probably try a piece of spring steel (a piece of used bi-
metal hack-saw blade should do it). This is a far sight cheaper than
the rebuild kit.


Re: Crash Bar In Front of Galley Stove

Stephan Regulinski
 

I have just ordered a crash bar for my Super Maramu 2000 (hull #303),
built to my specifications from a local stainless steel welder here
in Stanta Cruz de Tenerife, Los Canarios. He is charging me 60
euros, about $65, and will deliver it to me in two days from the date
of order. I will install myself.

My design calls for 25mm stainless tubing (same as on rail) welded to
3mm-thick end plates plus two 4mm-thick, threaded backing plates to
receive the bolts which will hold the bar to the cabinetry. The
backing plates are screwed to the back of the plywood cabinat and
hence do not fall down when the bolt holding the crash bar is removed.

This backing-plate design is the same as Amel uses, for example, in
the nav station where the bolts hold the nav station cabinetry in
place. To see the Amel design, remove one of the upper drawers from
the nav station. The brass plate is visible in the bottom of the
cabinate. It is identical to the plate that holds one of the bolts
that pivots the stove.

This is a very simple design, very strong, removable (to allow access
to the dishwasher) and very inexpensive compared to the Amel solution
(which I have not seen).

I am also considering a second crash bar that would swing into place
and lock with a removable pin to separate the galley from the
companionway. We have had two accidents where the person in the
galley was thrown to the nav station. Both times, the nav seat broke
(instead of my wife's or my ribs!).


SSB Wipe-Antenna

hns154es <hns154es@...>
 

I would like to install a Wipe-Antenna for the SSB radio on the back
of our SM. Can somebody tell me the exactly position and the best
mounting of it. It would be a great help, if somebody could send a
picture of the installation. Thanks a lot and best regards.
Hanspeter Wehrli SM #158, hns154es@yahoo.com


Amel Mango for sale

Bernd W. Rost
 

Hi Amel Fan´s,
unfortunately my wifes seasickness dos´nt end. Therefor my Amel Mango is for sale. She was built in 1986, she is in excellent condition, she has very low usage (1300 engine hours), no sun-damages on the hull, inside loks like new, she is ready to go.
She is lying on the Canaries and can be delivered to US East-Coast or West Indies or Mediterranean. The asking price is 195000 €.
For more information send an email to bernd.w.rost@gmx.de or call +49 174 3235014.
Yours sincerely
Bernd W. Rost


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Fitting an additional Echosounder (In terphase Twinscope)

Shann, Mark V <shannmv@...>
 

Thanks John & Anne,

Cutting the hole in the hull and fitting the transducer, is this something
you would think that I could do without Amel's help? In terms of location, I
was thinking along same lines, but presumably this means the new transducer
is offset / in front of the speed paddlewheel and original depth transducer.

By the way, the Twinscope does come off my last boat and I agree - does not
see very far in front, but in the Red Sea on a stormy night - this might
help (I have been there before with a lead line, not nice!)

cheers Amer.

-----Original Message-----
From: John and Anne on Bali Hai [mailto:hollamby@compuserve.com]
Sent: 27 March 2003 14:20
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Fitting an additional Echosounder
(Interphase Twinscope)


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "amershann" <shannmv@b...>
wrote:
Hi there, Does anyone have experience with fitting a "thru'hull"
echosounder (Interphase twinscope) to an Amel Maramu 1984. This is
a
forward and sidewards looking echosounder with a through hull
transducer on a bronze screwthread, fairly large transducer.

I am looking to fit one, but am concerned with hull cutting
procedure, transducer placement (so not as to interfere with other
sensors) and subsequent hull epoxy bounding + antifouling over
join.
Help please.

Many thanks, Amer (Synnefoula, Crete, Greece).
Amel retrofitted an Echopilot FLS to Bal Hai. They lifted the
floorboard in the forward cabin and put resin/filling on the V of
the hull a short distance in front of the web near the the front of
that section of bilge,leaving a space about 5cms between the filling
and the opening in the web so water can run back. The filling is
about 3.5cms high at the aft face and the top was level. They cut a
6mm hole with a hole saw and then made the exterior of the hull good
with filling to match the size of the through hull fitting and
antifouled it and touched up the white paint in the bilge.
I only fitted the FLS as I had removed it fron my previous yacht.
I am not impressed with the usefulness of FLS and would certainly
not have bought one again if I had not got one.
Amel ran the wire aft to the port side of the space above the galley
sink. I drilled holes big enough to take the plugs/wires at the back
of the FLS on the port side of the cockpit and through the
fibreglass below in the port cockpit locker and then fished the
wiring through. After connecting the instrument I sealed the two
holes around the wires with silicone and pushed the instrument on to
the sealant securing the instrument with a picture frame.
The FLS is useful at very slow speeds approaching obstructions such
as reefs in the S.Pacific. Shelving bottoms do no reflect backwards
and there is not enough time to react if there is an obstruction at
normal speeds or if there is any current.

Good luck with it, John Hollamby, Bali Hai SM319



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Re: Fitting an additional Echosounder (Interphase Twinscope)

John and Anne on Bali Hai <hollamby@...>
 

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "amershann" <shannmv@b...>
wrote:
Hi there, Does anyone have experience with fitting a "thru'hull"
echosounder (Interphase twinscope) to an Amel Maramu 1984. This is
a
forward and sidewards looking echosounder with a through hull
transducer on a bronze screwthread, fairly large transducer.

I am looking to fit one, but am concerned with hull cutting
procedure, transducer placement (so not as to interfere with other
sensors) and subsequent hull epoxy bounding + antifouling over
join.
Help please.

Many thanks, Amer (Synnefoula, Crete, Greece).
Amel retrofitted an Echopilot FLS to Bal Hai. They lifted the
floorboard in the forward cabin and put resin/filling on the V of
the hull a short distance in front of the web near the the front of
that section of bilge,leaving a space about 5cms between the filling
and the opening in the web so water can run back. The filling is
about 3.5cms high at the aft face and the top was level. They cut a
6mm hole with a hole saw and then made the exterior of the hull good
with filling to match the size of the through hull fitting and
antifouled it and touched up the white paint in the bilge.
I only fitted the FLS as I had removed it fron my previous yacht.
I am not impressed with the usefulness of FLS and would certainly
not have bought one again if I had not got one.
Amel ran the wire aft to the port side of the space above the galley
sink. I drilled holes big enough to take the plugs/wires at the back
of the FLS on the port side of the cockpit and through the
fibreglass below in the port cockpit locker and then fished the
wiring through. After connecting the instrument I sealed the two
holes around the wires with silicone and pushed the instrument on to
the sealant securing the instrument with a picture frame.
The FLS is useful at very slow speeds approaching obstructions such
as reefs in the S.Pacific. Shelving bottoms do no reflect backwards
and there is not enough time to react if there is an obstruction at
normal speeds or if there is any current.

Good luck with it, John Hollamby, Bali Hai SM319


Sharki Rig & Cabin top paint

milnchris <no_reply@...>
 

We are in the process of re-fitting our Sharki & have a few queries
that we hoped someone might be able to answer:

1. Rigging. Does anyone have details of recommended tensions for the
rig.

2. Mizzen mast. We have had the spreaders off and have put up a radar
dome. Is the angle of these spreaders crucial? What should it be?

3. Cabin top. The previous owner had painted the cabin top etc (not
the imitation teak) with a white one-pot gloss paint which is very
slippery. We would like to remove this and re-paint. Does anyone have
any suggestion about this - how do we take the paint off? It is
impossible to sand because of the non-skid grooves. Would you use
paint stripper? And does anyone recommend a particular brand/type of
paint to replace this.

Thanks for the help.
Cheers
Millie & Chris
"Sugar", Sharki No. 24