Date   

Re: [Amel] Eno 4 burner Stove

kimberlite <kimberlite@...>
 

Dimitri,
How do you get to the battery compartment?
Thanks
Fair Winds
Eric

-----Original Message-----
From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Dimitris Krassopoulos
Sent: Monday, February 22, 2010 3:02 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel] Eno 4 burner Stove

I had the same problem. You do not need to take the stove apart. You have to
unhang it from the gimbaled system and then clean the contacts of the
battery compartment on the back left side of the stove. Probably it will
work after cleaning the contacts .



Regards



Dimitris

SM 2000 Alma Libre



From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of kimberlite
Sent: Monday, February 22, 2010 9:10 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel] Eno 4 burner Stove







Hi,

My automatic burner lighter has stopped working (the thing that clicks when
to depress the igniter button).

The battery is new and the switch is working properly. The battery contacts
are clean.

I assume I have to take the stove apart. I also do not have a drawing of the
stove. . Does anyone have a drawing?

Has anyone else had this problem?

How do I take the stove apart?

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Richard Piller
Sent: Monday, September 28, 2009 3:29 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [Amel] Hove to and enjoy.

Eric, I don't have a drawing of hoving to.. We simply back wind a shorten
head sail, move the sheet car forward as far as we can. Keep on the sheet
for chafe. We had none. Shorten the main and pull it flat on the center
line. Turn the wheel to windward and tie it off. The boat STOPS. The angle
to the wind is about 50-60 deg. The boat creates it's own slick to windward
as it drifts. The motion is to slowly move up and down the big seas (25-35
ft.) seas with an easy motion. When the bow comes up to the wind it just
falls off. Over two days of 45-60 kts we moved 75 miles. From time to time
we'd get hit with a wave from the wrong side other then that all was well.
We slept, ate, and rested for two days while the storm blow itself out.

--- On Sun, 9/27/09, kimberlite <kimberlite@optonlin
<mailto:kimberlite%40optonline.net> e.net> wrote:

From: kimberlite <kimberlite@optonlin <mailto:kimberlite%40optonline.net>
e.net>
Subject: RE: [Amel] Heading South for the Winter
To: amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
Date: Sunday, September 27, 2009, 12:47 AM

Richard ,

Could you send me a scan of that drawing>

Kimberlite@optonlin e.net

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

_____

From: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com

[mailto:amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com] On Behalf Of Steve Constantine

Sent: Sunday, September 13, 2009 3:46 PM

To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com

Subject: Re: [Amel] Heading South for the Winter

Richard,

When we bought our boat, there was a hand drawn sketch in the manual showing

a ketch rig heave-to technique using only the main and mizzen (i.e. no

headsail at all, backwinded main on the traveller, and center line mizzen).

Have you tried this technique? If so, what is it about the conventional

sloop-style headsail/main technique you prefer?

Has anyone else compared the two techniques? We haven't practiced either, so

we're interested in the benefits of what works best.

Steve and Donna

Summer Love

SM 340

____________ _________ _________ __

From: Richard Piller <richard03801@ <mailto:richard0380 1%40yahoo. com>

yahoo.com>

To: amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtow ners%40yahoogrou ps.com>

yahoogroups. com

Sent: Friday, September 11, 2009 9:45:11 PM

Subject: RE: [Amel] Heading South for the Winter

Kent, you are new at this. There are a lot of us that have done this trip

for years. I know the Bahama's look like an easy way, they are NOT>> Once

you get our of Norfolk the winds normally will take you to Bermuda anyway..

Take advantage of that go east.. When you depart from Bermuda head for 60

degs as you go south. DON't be tricked into a straight line course to St.

Martin.. you head a bit east and when the winds come on your port let them

carry you to St. Martin.. Bring lots of fuel cans as there will be wind or

NONE... Eric carries lots of fuel so do we. You'll need it.. Also be sure to

get your cook gas cans filled before to take off. USE Herb and be sure to

call in every day he HATES people that don't.. in fact he worries to death

if you don't.. Try hoving two from time to time before you need too. It

works. Back wind the shortened headsail, bring the main on center shorten it

up to about a #3 reef with a short head sail bring

the wheel to windward and tie off the wheel with the mizzen rolled up.

She'll sit there and all will be well. We have done it in several big

nor'easter and two tropical blows.. It works.. even 35 foot seas. If you

find yourself running before the wind we lay out a big 300 foot u shaped

warp of 3/4 line to slow the boat and keep her steady so the auto pilot

doesn't kill itself. You've got one of the be sea going boats in the world.

Don't panic and you'll do just fine.

Richard and Joan on Challenge SM 209 in Annapolis.

--- On Tue, 9/8/09, Kent Robertson <karkauai@yahoo. . com> wrote:

From: Kent Robertson <karkauai@yahoo. com>

Subject: RE: [Amel] Heading South for the Winter

To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com

Date: Tuesday, September 8, 2009, 7:36 PM

Thanks a bunch John. That's what I needed to hear. All I have to do now is

get my SSB working for weather faxes and communications, and get my nerve up

enough to go to sea for 12 days. I'll probably have to get some professional

crew since none of my friends are up for that kind of trip yet. I think I'll

be OK with it if I have reliable weather info.

Where are you getting your shoulder worked on? I'm an anesthesiologist in

North Carolina. Ask for an interscalene block and catheter for postop pain

relief...it' ll make you pretty much pain free for 2-3 days after surgery.

Only other advice on shoulder surgery is to do your PT religiously no matter

what. Worst thing that can happen is to limit your movement enough that you

get a frozen shoulder.

Good luck with that.

My phone number is 828 234 6819 (cell). I may give you a call in a week or

two if I haven't made my mind up yet.

Thanks again,

Kent

--- On Tue, 9/8/09, john martin <symoondog@hotmail. com> wrote:

From: john martin <symoondog@hotmail. com>

Subject: RE: [Amel] Heading South for the Winter

To: "Amel YAHOO GROUP" <amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com>

Date: Tuesday, September 8, 2009, 4:15 PM

Kent, I've done that trip many times over the last 35 years. Don't even

think about going the gentlemens route. Its a real tough way to go. You will

spend a lot of time waiting for weather, like months, And motoring most of

the time into big seas. Bite the bullet,head to Bermuda to get your easting

in, and then head for St, Martin's. You'l be there in 12 days. If you go to

the Virgins first you will have a 80 mile bash to windward to get to St,

Martin's, Better to pick up the Virgins on the way back. Also stop in the

Bahamas on the way back, they are warm and beautiful in the springtime but

are terrible in the winter. You should also consider the Caribbean 1500.

They leave from Hampton Va, on the 2nd of Nov. Well organized with weather

routing etc. I wouldn't leave the Chesapeake before the first week in Nov.{

think hurricane.} Going to Savannah is good because they don't get

hurricanes, but you are going west when you want to go east. The Gentlemens

guide is a wonderful book, I have read it twice. He's a great writer. I'm

going to the States for a shoulder opperation this week so will have plenty

of time to talk while recovering. E-mail me your phone no. if you need any

more help.symoondog@ hotmail.com John "moon Dog" sm248

To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com

From: karkauai@yahoo. com

Date: Sun, 30 Aug 2009 14:27:36 +0000

Subject: [Amel] Heading South for the Winter

Hi, all,

I'm making plans for the trip South from the Chesapeake to the Caribbean and

thought I'd ask for some advice. I've done a few 3-5 day offshore trips

across the Gulf and up the coast, but haven't tackled the trip South yet.

From what I've read a lot of people sail out to Bermuda, then South to
avoid

the upwind beat from the Bahamas down the chain, but I still don't have my

SSB working (or have a good way to get weather that far offshore) I'm

working on that, but haven't had much luck yet. I have a week in Oct that I

could take her down to Savannah, then a month from mid Nov to mid Dec. I've

ordered the book "A Gentleman's Guide to Passages South", but wanted some

advice from folks who've been there and done that. Just how "bad" are the

two approaches to getting to the BVI from the E Coast?

Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

Kent

"Kristy" SM 243

____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _

BingT brings you maps, menus, and reviews organized in one place. Try it

now.

http://www.bing. com/search? q=restaurants& form=MLOGEN& publ=WLHMTAG&

crea=TEXT_ MLOGEN_Core_ tagline_local_ 1x1



------------ --------- --------- ------

Yahoo! Groups Links















No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.435 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2702 - Release Date: 02/21/10
19:34:00







------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links


Safe Place in Caribic Sy Sam 3

christophhoeke <christophhoeke@...>
 

Amelowners Hallo, liebe Freunde, / P>
Ich habe seit 2009 ein Amel 54, mein Name ist Christoph Hoeke, und ich
planen, in der Karibik im Jahr 2012 gehen für 2 Years.Now Ich bin auf
der Suche nach einem sicheren Ort / P>
Es mit gutem Service, wie in La Rochelle, weil mein Boot muss es für
viele Monate allein zu bleiben. / P>
Haben Sie ein paar Infos für mich? Thank you all! / P>
Christoph Höhe Sy Sam 3 / P>


Re: [Amel] Eno 4 burner Stove

Dimitris Krassopoulos <dkra@...>
 

I had the same problem. You do not need to take the stove apart. You have to
unhang it from the gimbaled system and then clean the contacts of the
battery compartment on the back left side of the stove. Probably it will
work after cleaning the contacts .



Regards



Dimitris

SM 2000 Alma Libre



From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of kimberlite
Sent: Monday, February 22, 2010 9:10 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel] Eno 4 burner Stove







Hi,

My automatic burner lighter has stopped working (the thing that clicks when
to depress the igniter button).

The battery is new and the switch is working properly. The battery contacts
are clean.

I assume I have to take the stove apart. I also do not have a drawing of the
stove. . Does anyone have a drawing?

Has anyone else had this problem?

How do I take the stove apart?

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Richard Piller
Sent: Monday, September 28, 2009 3:29 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [Amel] Hove to and enjoy.

Eric, I don't have a drawing of hoving to.. We simply back wind a shorten
head sail, move the sheet car forward as far as we can. Keep on the sheet
for chafe. We had none. Shorten the main and pull it flat on the center
line. Turn the wheel to windward and tie it off. The boat STOPS. The angle
to the wind is about 50-60 deg. The boat creates it's own slick to windward
as it drifts. The motion is to slowly move up and down the big seas (25-35
ft.) seas with an easy motion. When the bow comes up to the wind it just
falls off. Over two days of 45-60 kts we moved 75 miles. From time to time
we'd get hit with a wave from the wrong side other then that all was well.
We slept, ate, and rested for two days while the storm blow itself out.

--- On Sun, 9/27/09, kimberlite <kimberlite@optonlin
<mailto:kimberlite%40optonline.net> e.net> wrote:

From: kimberlite <kimberlite@optonlin <mailto:kimberlite%40optonline.net>
e.net>
Subject: RE: [Amel] Heading South for the Winter
To: amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
Date: Sunday, September 27, 2009, 12:47 AM

Richard ,

Could you send me a scan of that drawing>

Kimberlite@optonlin e.net

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

_____

From: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com

[mailto:amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com] On Behalf Of Steve Constantine

Sent: Sunday, September 13, 2009 3:46 PM

To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com

Subject: Re: [Amel] Heading South for the Winter

Richard,

When we bought our boat, there was a hand drawn sketch in the manual showing

a ketch rig heave-to technique using only the main and mizzen (i.e. no

headsail at all, backwinded main on the traveller, and center line mizzen).

Have you tried this technique? If so, what is it about the conventional

sloop-style headsail/main technique you prefer?

Has anyone else compared the two techniques? We haven't practiced either, so

we're interested in the benefits of what works best.

Steve and Donna

Summer Love

SM 340

____________ _________ _________ __

From: Richard Piller <richard03801@ <mailto:richard0380 1%40yahoo. com>

yahoo.com>

To: amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtow ners%40yahoogrou ps.com>

yahoogroups. com

Sent: Friday, September 11, 2009 9:45:11 PM

Subject: RE: [Amel] Heading South for the Winter

Kent, you are new at this. There are a lot of us that have done this trip

for years. I know the Bahama's look like an easy way, they are NOT>> Once

you get our of Norfolk the winds normally will take you to Bermuda anyway..

Take advantage of that go east.. When you depart from Bermuda head for 60

degs as you go south. DON't be tricked into a straight line course to St.

Martin.. you head a bit east and when the winds come on your port let them

carry you to St. Martin.. Bring lots of fuel cans as there will be wind or

NONE... Eric carries lots of fuel so do we. You'll need it.. Also be sure to

get your cook gas cans filled before to take off. USE Herb and be sure to

call in every day he HATES people that don't.. in fact he worries to death

if you don't.. Try hoving two from time to time before you need too. It

works. Back wind the shortened headsail, bring the main on center shorten it

up to about a #3 reef with a short head sail bring

the wheel to windward and tie off the wheel with the mizzen rolled up.

She'll sit there and all will be well. We have done it in several big

nor'easter and two tropical blows.. It works.. even 35 foot seas. If you

find yourself running before the wind we lay out a big 300 foot u shaped

warp of 3/4 line to slow the boat and keep her steady so the auto pilot

doesn't kill itself. You've got one of the be sea going boats in the world.

Don't panic and you'll do just fine.

Richard and Joan on Challenge SM 209 in Annapolis.

--- On Tue, 9/8/09, Kent Robertson <karkauai@yahoo. . com> wrote:

From: Kent Robertson <karkauai@yahoo. com>

Subject: RE: [Amel] Heading South for the Winter

To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com

Date: Tuesday, September 8, 2009, 7:36 PM

Thanks a bunch John. That's what I needed to hear. All I have to do now is

get my SSB working for weather faxes and communications, and get my nerve up

enough to go to sea for 12 days. I'll probably have to get some professional

crew since none of my friends are up for that kind of trip yet. I think I'll

be OK with it if I have reliable weather info.

Where are you getting your shoulder worked on? I'm an anesthesiologist in

North Carolina. Ask for an interscalene block and catheter for postop pain

relief...it' ll make you pretty much pain free for 2-3 days after surgery.

Only other advice on shoulder surgery is to do your PT religiously no matter

what. Worst thing that can happen is to limit your movement enough that you

get a frozen shoulder.

Good luck with that.

My phone number is 828 234 6819 (cell). I may give you a call in a week or

two if I haven't made my mind up yet.

Thanks again,

Kent

--- On Tue, 9/8/09, john martin <symoondog@hotmail. com> wrote:

From: john martin <symoondog@hotmail. com>

Subject: RE: [Amel] Heading South for the Winter

To: "Amel YAHOO GROUP" <amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com>

Date: Tuesday, September 8, 2009, 4:15 PM

Kent, I've done that trip many times over the last 35 years. Don't even

think about going the gentlemens route. Its a real tough way to go. You will

spend a lot of time waiting for weather, like months, And motoring most of

the time into big seas. Bite the bullet,head to Bermuda to get your easting

in, and then head for St, Martin's. You'l be there in 12 days. If you go to

the Virgins first you will have a 80 mile bash to windward to get to St,

Martin's, Better to pick up the Virgins on the way back. Also stop in the

Bahamas on the way back, they are warm and beautiful in the springtime but

are terrible in the winter. You should also consider the Caribbean 1500.

They leave from Hampton Va, on the 2nd of Nov. Well organized with weather

routing etc. I wouldn't leave the Chesapeake before the first week in Nov.{

think hurricane.} Going to Savannah is good because they don't get

hurricanes, but you are going west when you want to go east. The Gentlemens

guide is a wonderful book, I have read it twice. He's a great writer. I'm

going to the States for a shoulder opperation this week so will have plenty

of time to talk while recovering. E-mail me your phone no. if you need any

more help.symoondog@ hotmail.com John "moon Dog" sm248

To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com

From: karkauai@yahoo. com

Date: Sun, 30 Aug 2009 14:27:36 +0000

Subject: [Amel] Heading South for the Winter

Hi, all,

I'm making plans for the trip South from the Chesapeake to the Caribbean and

thought I'd ask for some advice. I've done a few 3-5 day offshore trips

across the Gulf and up the coast, but haven't tackled the trip South yet.

From what I've read a lot of people sail out to Bermuda, then South to
avoid

the upwind beat from the Bahamas down the chain, but I still don't have my

SSB working (or have a good way to get weather that far offshore) I'm

working on that, but haven't had much luck yet. I have a week in Oct that I

could take her down to Savannah, then a month from mid Nov to mid Dec. I've

ordered the book "A Gentleman's Guide to Passages South", but wanted some

advice from folks who've been there and done that. Just how "bad" are the

two approaches to getting to the BVI from the E Coast?

Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

Kent

"Kristy" SM 243

____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _

BingT brings you maps, menus, and reviews organized in one place. Try it

now.

http://www.bing. com/search? q=restaurants& form=MLOGEN& publ=WLHMTAG&

crea=TEXT_ MLOGEN_Core_ tagline_local_ 1x1

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

------------ --------- --------- ------

Yahoo! Groups Links

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.435 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2702 - Release Date: 02/21/10
19:34:00



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] STERN POLE

kimberlite <kimberlite@...>
 

Dear Peter,

My sat phone is mounted on a bracket between the backstays of the mizzen. It
has a platform welded to it to accommodate my sat phone antenna. It has
worked well for 7 years.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of peter
Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2010 3:31 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel] STERN POLE





Greetings, from Callisto SM2000 369. I am looking at mounting a satellite TV
dome on a stern pole. I would appreciate any pictures or information that
anyone might have in reference to stern mounted radar dome poles. Thank you
Peter Pappas Coast Rica


Eno 4 burner Stove

kimberlite <kimberlite@...>
 

Hi,

My automatic burner lighter has stopped working (the thing that clicks when
to depress the igniter button).

The battery is new and the switch is working properly. The battery contacts
are clean.



I assume I have to take the stove apart. I also do not have a drawing of the
stove. . Does anyone have a drawing?

Has anyone else had this problem?

How do I take the stove apart?

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Richard Piller
Sent: Monday, September 28, 2009 3:29 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel] Hove to and enjoy.





Eric, I don't have a drawing of hoving to.. We simply back wind a shorten
head sail, move the sheet car forward as far as we can. Keep on the sheet
for chafe. We had none. Shorten the main and pull it flat on the center
line. Turn the wheel to windward and tie it off. The boat STOPS. The angle
to the wind is about 50-60 deg. The boat creates it's own slick to windward
as it drifts. The motion is to slowly move up and down the big seas (25-35
ft.) seas with an easy motion. When the bow comes up to the wind it just
falls off. Over two days of 45-60 kts we moved 75 miles. From time to time
we'd get hit with a wave from the wrong side other then that all was well.
We slept, ate, and rested for two days while the storm blow itself out.

--- On Sun, 9/27/09, kimberlite <kimberlite@optonlin
<mailto:kimberlite%40optonline.net> e.net> wrote:

From: kimberlite <kimberlite@optonlin <mailto:kimberlite%40optonline.net>
e.net>
Subject: RE: [Amel] Heading South for the Winter
To: amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
Date: Sunday, September 27, 2009, 12:47 AM



Richard ,

Could you send me a scan of that drawing>

Kimberlite@optonlin e.net

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

_____

From: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com

[mailto:amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com] On Behalf Of Steve Constantine

Sent: Sunday, September 13, 2009 3:46 PM

To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com

Subject: Re: [Amel] Heading South for the Winter

Richard,

When we bought our boat, there was a hand drawn sketch in the manual showing

a ketch rig heave-to technique using only the main and mizzen (i.e. no

headsail at all, backwinded main on the traveller, and center line mizzen).

Have you tried this technique? If so, what is it about the conventional

sloop-style headsail/main technique you prefer?

Has anyone else compared the two techniques? We haven't practiced either, so

we're interested in the benefits of what works best.

Steve and Donna

Summer Love

SM 340

____________ _________ _________ __

From: Richard Piller <richard03801@ <mailto:richard0380 1%40yahoo. com>

yahoo.com>

To: amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtow ners%40yahoogrou ps.com>

yahoogroups. com

Sent: Friday, September 11, 2009 9:45:11 PM

Subject: RE: [Amel] Heading South for the Winter

Kent, you are new at this. There are a lot of us that have done this trip

for years. I know the Bahama's look like an easy way, they are NOT>> Once

you get our of Norfolk the winds normally will take you to Bermuda anyway..

Take advantage of that go east.. When you depart from Bermuda head for 60

degs as you go south. DON't be tricked into a straight line course to St.

Martin.. you head a bit east and when the winds come on your port let them

carry you to St. Martin.. Bring lots of fuel cans as there will be wind or

NONE... Eric carries lots of fuel so do we. You'll need it.. Also be sure to

get your cook gas cans filled before to take off. USE Herb and be sure to

call in every day he HATES people that don't.. in fact he worries to death

if you don't.. Try hoving two from time to time before you need too. It

works. Back wind the shortened headsail, bring the main on center shorten it

up to about a #3 reef with a short head sail bring

the wheel to windward and tie off the wheel with the mizzen rolled up.

She'll sit there and all will be well. We have done it in several big

nor'easter and two tropical blows.. It works.. even 35 foot seas. If you

find yourself running before the wind we lay out a big 300 foot u shaped

warp of 3/4 line to slow the boat and keep her steady so the auto pilot

doesn't kill itself. You've got one of the be sea going boats in the world.

Don't panic and you'll do just fine.

Richard and Joan on Challenge SM 209 in Annapolis.

--- On Tue, 9/8/09, Kent Robertson <karkauai@yahoo. . com> wrote:

From: Kent Robertson <karkauai@yahoo. com>

Subject: RE: [Amel] Heading South for the Winter

To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com

Date: Tuesday, September 8, 2009, 7:36 PM

Thanks a bunch John. That's what I needed to hear. All I have to do now is

get my SSB working for weather faxes and communications, and get my nerve up

enough to go to sea for 12 days. I'll probably have to get some professional

crew since none of my friends are up for that kind of trip yet. I think I'll

be OK with it if I have reliable weather info.

Where are you getting your shoulder worked on? I'm an anesthesiologist in

North Carolina. Ask for an interscalene block and catheter for postop pain

relief...it' ll make you pretty much pain free for 2-3 days after surgery.

Only other advice on shoulder surgery is to do your PT religiously no matter

what. Worst thing that can happen is to limit your movement enough that you

get a frozen shoulder.

Good luck with that.

My phone number is 828 234 6819 (cell). I may give you a call in a week or

two if I haven't made my mind up yet.

Thanks again,

Kent

--- On Tue, 9/8/09, john martin <symoondog@hotmail. com> wrote:

From: john martin <symoondog@hotmail. com>

Subject: RE: [Amel] Heading South for the Winter

To: "Amel YAHOO GROUP" <amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com>

Date: Tuesday, September 8, 2009, 4:15 PM

Kent, I've done that trip many times over the last 35 years. Don't even

think about going the gentlemens route. Its a real tough way to go. You will

spend a lot of time waiting for weather, like months, And motoring most of

the time into big seas. Bite the bullet,head to Bermuda to get your easting

in, and then head for St, Martin's. You'l be there in 12 days. If you go to

the Virgins first you will have a 80 mile bash to windward to get to St,

Martin's, Better to pick up the Virgins on the way back. Also stop in the

Bahamas on the way back, they are warm and beautiful in the springtime but

are terrible in the winter. You should also consider the Caribbean 1500.

They leave from Hampton Va, on the 2nd of Nov. Well organized with weather

routing etc. I wouldn't leave the Chesapeake before the first week in Nov.{

think hurricane.} Going to Savannah is good because they don't get

hurricanes, but you are going west when you want to go east. The Gentlemens

guide is a wonderful book, I have read it twice. He's a great writer. I'm

going to the States for a shoulder opperation this week so will have plenty

of time to talk while recovering. E-mail me your phone no. if you need any

more help.symoondog@ hotmail.com John "moon Dog" sm248

To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com

From: karkauai@yahoo. com

Date: Sun, 30 Aug 2009 14:27:36 +0000

Subject: [Amel] Heading South for the Winter

Hi, all,

I'm making plans for the trip South from the Chesapeake to the Caribbean and

thought I'd ask for some advice. I've done a few 3-5 day offshore trips

across the Gulf and up the coast, but haven't tackled the trip South yet.

From what I've read a lot of people sail out to Bermuda, then South to avoid

the upwind beat from the Bahamas down the chain, but I still don't have my

SSB working (or have a good way to get weather that far offshore) I'm

working on that, but haven't had much luck yet. I have a week in Oct that I

could take her down to Savannah, then a month from mid Nov to mid Dec. I've

ordered the book "A Gentleman's Guide to Passages South", but wanted some

advice from folks who've been there and done that. Just how "bad" are the

two approaches to getting to the BVI from the E Coast?

Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

Kent

"Kristy" SM 243

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------------ --------- --------- ------

Yahoo! Groups Links


Santorin 1992 for sale

Willem J. Kroes
 

My Amel Santorin "Kavanga" is for sale. She is already in the Mediterranean (Leros Island in Greece) and the dry dock has been paid until August 2010. Good condition. New sails and lots of equipment. Lightly used over the years by two successive owners since new. Also EU tax has been paid. Send an e-mail and I will send you more information and pictures.

Willem J. Kroes


STERN POLE

peter <pjppappas@...>
 

Greetings, from Callisto SM2000 369. I am looking at mounting a satellite TV dome on a stern pole. I would appreciate any pictures or information that anyone might have in reference to stern mounted radar dome poles. Thank you Peter Pappas Coast Rica


Re: Santorin Outhaul Motor

svbebe <yahoogroups@...>
 

Bob,

The spare brushes I received from Amel came with the springs.

Best,

Bill
s/v BeBe, SM2, #387


Re: Santorin Outhaul Motor

rossirossix4
 

Thanks Bill. Amel does offer the "carbons" or brushes and I have extras of these. What I'm looking for is the spring assembly that holds them, what you remove when you replace the brush. Mine have some corrosion and I'd like to have spares. Sorry, I'm off the boat right now and can't give you a better description.

Bob

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "svbebe" <yahoogroups@...> wrote:

I think you are describing the carbon brushes for the electric motor. If so, go to any re-builder of automotive starter motors. If the "carbon brush" is not a standard size, they should be able to make one for you...quite common.

There are places on the Internet that will make "custom sized" "carbon brushes." This is one of them: http://www.acecarbon.com/customk.php

Hope this helps,

Best,

Bill
s/v BeBe, SM2, #387
Currently Malaysia

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "rossirossix4" <rossidesigngroup@> wrote:

Did you just replace the motor or did you have a motor with the switching contacts (little spring, wire terminals, carbon contact, etc.) I have a spare motor but last time I asked Amel if they had that part (for a spare since mine looks a bit sketchy) they said that they did not. Has anybody had any luck finding this?

Bob
Brittany de la Mer Santorin 86 1993

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "joemac4sail" <joemac4sail@> wrote:

Hi Jeff
Of the 4 Amel motors on our 1992 Santorin we have had to replace just one motor, the boom outhaul. This we had to do last year due to water ingress. As Bill said, the Amel motors and housing are well engineered and built to last.
Regards Joe
KhamsinB
--- In amelyachtowners@..., "svbebe" <yahoogroups@> wrote:

One more thing Jeff. If you are not working with Joel Potter in Ft. Lauderdale, you should be. He will not sell or list a used Amel that is not right.

Best,

Bill
s/v BeBe, SM2, #387
Currently, Malaysia

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "svbebe" <yahoogroups@> wrote:

Jeff,

I would not be concerned if I were you. It seems to us that the Amel supplied parts are well engineered, readily available, priced right and much better than other versions of the same thing. For instance, the 24 volt furling and outhaul motors can be rebuilt almost anywhere in the world...anywhere that a car starting motor can be rebuilt...I think that is much better than hydraulic furling.

We are half-way around the world on our circumnavigation. On the few times we have needed to order a part, we have always found Amel to be responsive and spot-on accurate. The only criticism I could make is that they only ship FedEx and they only use the most expensive FedEx service requiring a signature. However, I am sure that even this decision by Amel is based on experience. Why would anyone want to save a few bucks if they need it delivered accurately and quickly?

When ever we place an order we go through the boat from stem to stern to see if there is any small part that would be improved by replacement...we order those non-essential parts when we place an order for something we need. For instance, on my last order I ordered 100 of the nylon plugs for the Genoa track. UV Rays had damaged some of these plugs, so for 8 Euros and probably zero incremental FedEx charges I got the replacements. I am not sure that the manufacturer of our previous boat would have had that kind of part available...come to think of it...there were no plugs in our previous boat's Genoa track!

When looking for an Amel try to find one that has been kept 100% Amel without modifications...and look for the kind of care the previous owner gave her...for instance, did he bother to replace those 94 nylon plugs in the Genoa track?

Hope this helps. You can email me privately at svbebe"at"gmail.com

Best,


Bill
s/v BeBe, SM2, #387
Currently Malaysia



--- In amelyachtowners@..., "jhgeltz" <jeff@> wrote:

My humble greetings to all you Amel owners.

My wife and I are kicking tires on Amel ownership and having spent time on two of them last week, I have many considerations running through my head. One question is with respect to certain components like furler motors, bow thrusters, etc. that one would normally find parts for from the likes of Vetus, Side-Power, Harken, etc. that need to be sourced from only Amel.

My concerns are along the lines of the cost for parts or replacements of this equipment related to a captive audience since the gear is custom built for the boat.

I would appreciate feedback from owners who have experience with the cost and availability of sourcing replacements or parts from Amel for these types of custom components.

Thank you.

Jeff


Re: Santorin Outhaul Motor

svbebe <yahoogroups@...>
 

I think you are describing the carbon brushes for the electric motor. If so, go to any re-builder of automotive starter motors. If the "carbon brush" is not a standard size, they should be able to make one for you...quite common.

There are places on the Internet that will make "custom sized" "carbon brushes." This is one of them: http://www.acecarbon.com/customk.php

Hope this helps,

Best,

Bill
s/v BeBe, SM2, #387
Currently Malaysia

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "rossirossix4" <rossidesigngroup@...> wrote:

Did you just replace the motor or did you have a motor with the switching contacts (little spring, wire terminals, carbon contact, etc.) I have a spare motor but last time I asked Amel if they had that part (for a spare since mine looks a bit sketchy) they said that they did not. Has anybody had any luck finding this?

Bob
Brittany de la Mer Santorin 86 1993

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "joemac4sail" <joemac4sail@> wrote:

Hi Jeff
Of the 4 Amel motors on our 1992 Santorin we have had to replace just one motor, the boom outhaul. This we had to do last year due to water ingress. As Bill said, the Amel motors and housing are well engineered and built to last.
Regards Joe
KhamsinB
--- In amelyachtowners@..., "svbebe" <yahoogroups@> wrote:

One more thing Jeff. If you are not working with Joel Potter in Ft. Lauderdale, you should be. He will not sell or list a used Amel that is not right.

Best,

Bill
s/v BeBe, SM2, #387
Currently, Malaysia

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "svbebe" <yahoogroups@> wrote:

Jeff,

I would not be concerned if I were you. It seems to us that the Amel supplied parts are well engineered, readily available, priced right and much better than other versions of the same thing. For instance, the 24 volt furling and outhaul motors can be rebuilt almost anywhere in the world...anywhere that a car starting motor can be rebuilt...I think that is much better than hydraulic furling.

We are half-way around the world on our circumnavigation. On the few times we have needed to order a part, we have always found Amel to be responsive and spot-on accurate. The only criticism I could make is that they only ship FedEx and they only use the most expensive FedEx service requiring a signature. However, I am sure that even this decision by Amel is based on experience. Why would anyone want to save a few bucks if they need it delivered accurately and quickly?

When ever we place an order we go through the boat from stem to stern to see if there is any small part that would be improved by replacement...we order those non-essential parts when we place an order for something we need. For instance, on my last order I ordered 100 of the nylon plugs for the Genoa track. UV Rays had damaged some of these plugs, so for 8 Euros and probably zero incremental FedEx charges I got the replacements. I am not sure that the manufacturer of our previous boat would have had that kind of part available...come to think of it...there were no plugs in our previous boat's Genoa track!

When looking for an Amel try to find one that has been kept 100% Amel without modifications...and look for the kind of care the previous owner gave her...for instance, did he bother to replace those 94 nylon plugs in the Genoa track?

Hope this helps. You can email me privately at svbebe"at"gmail.com

Best,


Bill
s/v BeBe, SM2, #387
Currently Malaysia



--- In amelyachtowners@..., "jhgeltz" <jeff@> wrote:

My humble greetings to all you Amel owners.

My wife and I are kicking tires on Amel ownership and having spent time on two of them last week, I have many considerations running through my head. One question is with respect to certain components like furler motors, bow thrusters, etc. that one would normally find parts for from the likes of Vetus, Side-Power, Harken, etc. that need to be sourced from only Amel.

My concerns are along the lines of the cost for parts or replacements of this equipment related to a captive audience since the gear is custom built for the boat.

I would appreciate feedback from owners who have experience with the cost and availability of sourcing replacements or parts from Amel for these types of custom components.

Thank you.

Jeff


Re: Santorin Outhaul Motor

rossirossix4
 

Did you just replace the motor or did you have a motor with the switching contacts (little spring, wire terminals, carbon contact, etc.) I have a spare motor but last time I asked Amel if they had that part (for a spare since mine looks a bit sketchy) they said that they did not. Has anybody had any luck finding this?

Bob
Brittany de la Mer Santorin 86 1993

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "joemac4sail" <joemac4sail@...> wrote:

Hi Jeff
Of the 4 Amel motors on our 1992 Santorin we have had to replace just one motor, the boom outhaul. This we had to do last year due to water ingress. As Bill said, the Amel motors and housing are well engineered and built to last.
Regards Joe
KhamsinB
--- In amelyachtowners@..., "svbebe" <yahoogroups@> wrote:

One more thing Jeff. If you are not working with Joel Potter in Ft. Lauderdale, you should be. He will not sell or list a used Amel that is not right.

Best,

Bill
s/v BeBe, SM2, #387
Currently, Malaysia

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "svbebe" <yahoogroups@> wrote:

Jeff,

I would not be concerned if I were you. It seems to us that the Amel supplied parts are well engineered, readily available, priced right and much better than other versions of the same thing. For instance, the 24 volt furling and outhaul motors can be rebuilt almost anywhere in the world...anywhere that a car starting motor can be rebuilt...I think that is much better than hydraulic furling.

We are half-way around the world on our circumnavigation. On the few times we have needed to order a part, we have always found Amel to be responsive and spot-on accurate. The only criticism I could make is that they only ship FedEx and they only use the most expensive FedEx service requiring a signature. However, I am sure that even this decision by Amel is based on experience. Why would anyone want to save a few bucks if they need it delivered accurately and quickly?

When ever we place an order we go through the boat from stem to stern to see if there is any small part that would be improved by replacement...we order those non-essential parts when we place an order for something we need. For instance, on my last order I ordered 100 of the nylon plugs for the Genoa track. UV Rays had damaged some of these plugs, so for 8 Euros and probably zero incremental FedEx charges I got the replacements. I am not sure that the manufacturer of our previous boat would have had that kind of part available...come to think of it...there were no plugs in our previous boat's Genoa track!

When looking for an Amel try to find one that has been kept 100% Amel without modifications...and look for the kind of care the previous owner gave her...for instance, did he bother to replace those 94 nylon plugs in the Genoa track?

Hope this helps. You can email me privately at svbebe"at"gmail.com

Best,


Bill
s/v BeBe, SM2, #387
Currently Malaysia



--- In amelyachtowners@..., "jhgeltz" <jeff@> wrote:

My humble greetings to all you Amel owners.

My wife and I are kicking tires on Amel ownership and having spent time on two of them last week, I have many considerations running through my head. One question is with respect to certain components like furler motors, bow thrusters, etc. that one would normally find parts for from the likes of Vetus, Side-Power, Harken, etc. that need to be sourced from only Amel.

My concerns are along the lines of the cost for parts or replacements of this equipment related to a captive audience since the gear is custom built for the boat.

I would appreciate feedback from owners who have experience with the cost and availability of sourcing replacements or parts from Amel for these types of custom components.

Thank you.

Jeff


Re: Kicking Tires

joseph mc donnell
 

Hi Jeff
Of the 4 Amel motors on our 1992 Santorin we have had to replace just one motor, the boom outhaul. This we had to do last year due to water ingress. As Bill said, the Amel motors and housing are well engineered and built to last.
Regards Joe
KhamsinB

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "svbebe" <yahoogroups@...> wrote:

One more thing Jeff. If you are not working with Joel Potter in Ft. Lauderdale, you should be. He will not sell or list a used Amel that is not right.

Best,

Bill
s/v BeBe, SM2, #387
Currently, Malaysia

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "svbebe" <yahoogroups@> wrote:

Jeff,

I would not be concerned if I were you. It seems to us that the Amel supplied parts are well engineered, readily available, priced right and much better than other versions of the same thing. For instance, the 24 volt furling and outhaul motors can be rebuilt almost anywhere in the world...anywhere that a car starting motor can be rebuilt...I think that is much better than hydraulic furling.

We are half-way around the world on our circumnavigation. On the few times we have needed to order a part, we have always found Amel to be responsive and spot-on accurate. The only criticism I could make is that they only ship FedEx and they only use the most expensive FedEx service requiring a signature. However, I am sure that even this decision by Amel is based on experience. Why would anyone want to save a few bucks if they need it delivered accurately and quickly?

When ever we place an order we go through the boat from stem to stern to see if there is any small part that would be improved by replacement...we order those non-essential parts when we place an order for something we need. For instance, on my last order I ordered 100 of the nylon plugs for the Genoa track. UV Rays had damaged some of these plugs, so for 8 Euros and probably zero incremental FedEx charges I got the replacements. I am not sure that the manufacturer of our previous boat would have had that kind of part available...come to think of it...there were no plugs in our previous boat's Genoa track!

When looking for an Amel try to find one that has been kept 100% Amel without modifications...and look for the kind of care the previous owner gave her...for instance, did he bother to replace those 94 nylon plugs in the Genoa track?

Hope this helps. You can email me privately at svbebe"at"gmail.com

Best,


Bill
s/v BeBe, SM2, #387
Currently Malaysia



--- In amelyachtowners@..., "jhgeltz" <jeff@> wrote:

My humble greetings to all you Amel owners.

My wife and I are kicking tires on Amel ownership and having spent time on two of them last week, I have many considerations running through my head. One question is with respect to certain components like furler motors, bow thrusters, etc. that one would normally find parts for from the likes of Vetus, Side-Power, Harken, etc. that need to be sourced from only Amel.

My concerns are along the lines of the cost for parts or replacements of this equipment related to a captive audience since the gear is custom built for the boat.

I would appreciate feedback from owners who have experience with the cost and availability of sourcing replacements or parts from Amel for these types of custom components.

Thank you.

Jeff


Re: Kicking Tires

svbebe <yahoogroups@...>
 

One more thing Jeff. If you are not working with Joel Potter in Ft. Lauderdale, you should be. He will not sell or list a used Amel that is not right.

Best,

Bill
s/v BeBe, SM2, #387
Currently, Malaysia

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "svbebe" <yahoogroups@...> wrote:

Jeff,

I would not be concerned if I were you. It seems to us that the Amel supplied parts are well engineered, readily available, priced right and much better than other versions of the same thing. For instance, the 24 volt furling and outhaul motors can be rebuilt almost anywhere in the world...anywhere that a car starting motor can be rebuilt...I think that is much better than hydraulic furling.

We are half-way around the world on our circumnavigation. On the few times we have needed to order a part, we have always found Amel to be responsive and spot-on accurate. The only criticism I could make is that they only ship FedEx and they only use the most expensive FedEx service requiring a signature. However, I am sure that even this decision by Amel is based on experience. Why would anyone want to save a few bucks if they need it delivered accurately and quickly?

When ever we place an order we go through the boat from stem to stern to see if there is any small part that would be improved by replacement...we order those non-essential parts when we place an order for something we need. For instance, on my last order I ordered 100 of the nylon plugs for the Genoa track. UV Rays had damaged some of these plugs, so for 8 Euros and probably zero incremental FedEx charges I got the replacements. I am not sure that the manufacturer of our previous boat would have had that kind of part available...come to think of it...there were no plugs in our previous boat's Genoa track!

When looking for an Amel try to find one that has been kept 100% Amel without modifications...and look for the kind of care the previous owner gave her...for instance, did he bother to replace those 94 nylon plugs in the Genoa track?

Hope this helps. You can email me privately at svbebe"at"gmail.com

Best,


Bill
s/v BeBe, SM2, #387
Currently Malaysia



--- In amelyachtowners@..., "jhgeltz" <jeff@> wrote:

My humble greetings to all you Amel owners.

My wife and I are kicking tires on Amel ownership and having spent time on two of them last week, I have many considerations running through my head. One question is with respect to certain components like furler motors, bow thrusters, etc. that one would normally find parts for from the likes of Vetus, Side-Power, Harken, etc. that need to be sourced from only Amel.

My concerns are along the lines of the cost for parts or replacements of this equipment related to a captive audience since the gear is custom built for the boat.

I would appreciate feedback from owners who have experience with the cost and availability of sourcing replacements or parts from Amel for these types of custom components.

Thank you.

Jeff


Re: Kicking Tires

svbebe <yahoogroups@...>
 

Jeff,

I would not be concerned if I were you. It seems to us that the Amel supplied parts are well engineered, readily available, priced right and much better than other versions of the same thing. For instance, the 24 volt furling and outhaul motors can be rebuilt almost anywhere in the world...anywhere that a car starting motor can be rebuilt...I think that is much better than hydraulic furling.

We are half-way around the world on our circumnavigation. On the few times we have needed to order a part, we have always found Amel to be responsive and spot-on accurate. The only criticism I could make is that they only ship FedEx and they only use the most expensive FedEx service requiring a signature. However, I am sure that even this decision by Amel is based on experience. Why would anyone want to save a few bucks if they need it delivered accurately and quickly?

When ever we place an order we go through the boat from stem to stern to see if there is any small part that would be improved by replacement...we order those non-essential parts when we place an order for something we need. For instance, on my last order I ordered 100 of the nylon plugs for the Genoa track. UV Rays had damaged some of these plugs, so for 8 Euros and probably zero incremental FedEx charges I got the replacements. I am not sure that the manufacturer of our previous boat would have had that kind of part available...come to think of it...there were no plugs in our previous boat's Genoa track!

When looking for an Amel try to find one that has been kept 100% Amel without modifications...and look for the kind of care the previous owner gave her...for instance, did he bother to replace those 94 nylon plugs in the Genoa track?

Hope this helps. You can email me privately at svbebe"at"gmail.com

Best,


Bill
s/v BeBe, SM2, #387
Currently Malaysia

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "jhgeltz" <jeff@...> wrote:

My humble greetings to all you Amel owners.

My wife and I are kicking tires on Amel ownership and having spent time on two of them last week, I have many considerations running through my head. One question is with respect to certain components like furler motors, bow thrusters, etc. that one would normally find parts for from the likes of Vetus, Side-Power, Harken, etc. that need to be sourced from only Amel.

My concerns are along the lines of the cost for parts or replacements of this equipment related to a captive audience since the gear is custom built for the boat.

I would appreciate feedback from owners who have experience with the cost and availability of sourcing replacements or parts from Amel for these types of custom components.

Thank you.

Jeff


Kicking Tires

Jeff
 

My humble greetings to all you Amel owners.

My wife and I are kicking tires on Amel ownership and having spent time on two of them last week, I have many considerations running through my head. One question is with respect to certain components like furler motors, bow thrusters, etc. that one would normally find parts for from the likes of Vetus, Side-Power, Harken, etc. that need to be sourced from only Amel.

My concerns are along the lines of the cost for parts or replacements of this equipment related to a captive audience since the gear is custom built for the boat.

I would appreciate feedback from owners who have experience with the cost and availability of sourcing replacements or parts from Amel for these types of custom components.

Thank you.

Jeff


Re: [Amel] Frigoboat Refrigerator cycles off and on - Refrigerator Removal and Replacement

David Mackintosh <dlm48@...>
 

Hi Bill

Not 100% sure if you are trying to pull my leg here - you probably read this
but in case not

http://www.sail-world.com/Cruising/international/IMBs-Piracy-Hotspots-from-2009/66507

Margaret Says Hello :-)

kindest regards

David



On 17 February 2010 07:02, svbebe <yahoogroups@...> wrote:



David,

You are correct, as you are always.

Additionally, if you "lay the refrigerator on its left side facing" as in
step 12, the refrigerant oil will not migrate from the compressor because in
this position the IN & OUT lines are pointed UP.

Hi to Margaret!


Best,

Bill
s/v BeBe, SM2, #387
Currently Malaysia

--- In amelyachtowners@... <amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>,
David Mackintosh <dlm48@...> wrote:

ooops you should not lay a fridge on its side or back or front and then
put
it back into operation without allowing it to stand vertical for a few
hours
i think 12 hours is recommended for a domestic unit. This is to allow the
refrigerant to drain back down and to ensure there is only gas in the
circuit and not any liquid.

regards

David

On 16 February 2010 02:04, svbebe <yahoogroups@...> wrote:



All,

I apologize for the double posting, but wanted to correct some errors
(step 9 is corrected and NOTE added).

I decided to remove the Frigoboat refrigerator, clean it and replace
the
brain or electronic unit with a new Danfoss #101N0210. I have carried
this electronic unit in my spares because it is the same unit on all
three Frigoboat refrigerators/freezers.

I found a lot of dust and dirt (seven years worth). If you have five or
more years on your refrigerator, you should clean it. I also found a
broken fan wire that was intermittently making contact. I do not know
if my problem was need of cleaning, replacing the brain, or repairing
the almost broken fan wire, or all of the above; but the refrigerator
now works like new.

Here are the steps I followed:
1. Remove the wood trim beneath the refrigerator by unscrewing the 2
wood screws

2. Remove the floor in front of the refrigerator by removing the
"thumb-bolt" which you can reach through the floor hatch nearest
the companionway

3. Remove the "thumb-bolt" inside the left door under the
sink (door next to refrigerator)

4. Open the refrigerator door and remove the bolt on the left side of
the door wich is used by the door locking mechanism

5. The refrigerator can now be pulled out, but take care not to
damage the wood on the left side of the refrigeratorwe used a
plastic cutting-sheet between the wood and the refrigeratorit is a
tight fituse something or you will regret it.

6. Disconnect the + & - wires from the control box on the front of
the refrigerator and check to make sure they will run free when the
refrigerator is lifted out. On #387 these were White = + or Hot and
Blue = - or Neg.

7. Slide the refrigerator forward all of the way

8. From inside the left door under the sink uncouple the refrigerator
drain hose and make sure it will run free when the refrigerator is
lifted out.

9. Remove the door locking mechanism from the left side facing of the
refrigerator and remove the door by removing the upper and lower door
hinges

10. Lift the refrigerator straight up and over the washer

11. I used an old plastic tablecloth to protect the saloon table and
worked inside with the A/C runningI have learned how to do tough
jobs in the tropics.

12. Lay the refrigerator on its left side facing.

13. Find the two "thumb-bolts" securing the wood base to the
refrigeratorremove them and loosen the Velcro holding the
refrigerant lines to the wood base.

14. Carefully loosen the free side of the proximately 6"x9"
foam piece (one side is glued the other free). There are 4 more small
pieces of foam that can be removed for cleaning

15. Now most of the condensing coil area is open to vacuum

16. Unscrew the two machine screws holding the condensing fan and
remove the fan noting the fan's orientation and thoroughly clean the
fanreplace the fan in the same orientation as you previously noted.

17. I changed the Electronic Unit. Frigoboat uses the same Danfoss
101N0210 unit on all of the Frigoboat refrigeration boxes on #387. I
had a spare so I replaced it when I cleaned the refrigerator. Be
careful. There are 8 pins for push-on connectors on the side of the
Electronic Unit and you will only use 7. The one you will not use is
the second +.

18. Reverse the procedure to reinstall.

NOTE: there is some side-to-side adjustment necessary when
replacing the thumb-bolts that secure the refrigerator to the wood
base.
This side-to-side adjustment is necessary to get a good fit when
reinstalling the refrigerator.

We found it easier to make this adjustment after the refrigerator was
inserted about half-way into its place under the counter. So leave
those
thumb-bolts loose until that point. Also we found that sliding the
refrigerator all the way to "port" on the wood base worked perfectly.

Best,

Bill
s/v BeBe SM2, #387
Currently Malaysia



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Frigoboat Refrigerator cycles off and on - Refrigerator Removal and Replacement

svbebe <yahoogroups@...>
 

David,

You are correct, as you are always.

Additionally, if you "lay the refrigerator on its left side facing" as in step 12, the refrigerant oil will not migrate from the compressor because in this position the IN & OUT lines are pointed UP.

Hi to Margaret!

Best,

Bill
s/v BeBe, SM2, #387
Currently Malaysia

--- In amelyachtowners@..., David Mackintosh <dlm48@...> wrote:

ooops you should not lay a fridge on its side or back or front and then put
it back into operation without allowing it to stand vertical for a few hours
i think 12 hours is recommended for a domestic unit. This is to allow the
refrigerant to drain back down and to ensure there is only gas in the
circuit and not any liquid.

regards

David

On 16 February 2010 02:04, svbebe <yahoogroups@...> wrote:



All,

I apologize for the double posting, but wanted to correct some errors
(step 9 is corrected and NOTE added).

I decided to remove the Frigoboat refrigerator, clean it and replace the
brain or electronic unit with a new Danfoss #101N0210. I have carried
this electronic unit in my spares because it is the same unit on all
three Frigoboat refrigerators/freezers.

I found a lot of dust and dirt (seven years worth). If you have five or
more years on your refrigerator, you should clean it. I also found a
broken fan wire that was intermittently making contact. I do not know
if my problem was need of cleaning, replacing the brain, or repairing
the almost broken fan wire, or all of the above; but the refrigerator
now works like new.

Here are the steps I followed:
1. Remove the wood trim beneath the refrigerator by unscrewing the 2
wood screws

2. Remove the floor in front of the refrigerator by removing the
"thumb-bolt" which you can reach through the floor hatch nearest
the companionway

3. Remove the "thumb-bolt" inside the left door under the
sink (door next to refrigerator)

4. Open the refrigerator door and remove the bolt on the left side of
the door wich is used by the door locking mechanism

5. The refrigerator can now be pulled out, but take care not to
damage the wood on the left side of the refrigerator…we used a
plastic cutting-sheet between the wood and the refrigerator…it is a
tight fit…use something or you will regret it.

6. Disconnect the + & - wires from the control box on the front of
the refrigerator and check to make sure they will run free when the
refrigerator is lifted out. On #387 these were White = + or Hot and
Blue = - or Neg.

7. Slide the refrigerator forward all of the way

8. From inside the left door under the sink uncouple the refrigerator
drain hose and make sure it will run free when the refrigerator is
lifted out.

9. Remove the door locking mechanism from the left side facing of the
refrigerator and remove the door by removing the upper and lower door
hinges

10. Lift the refrigerator straight up and over the washer

11. I used an old plastic tablecloth to protect the saloon table and
worked inside with the A/C running…I have learned how to do tough
jobs in the tropics.

12. Lay the refrigerator on its left side facing.

13. Find the two "thumb-bolts" securing the wood base to the
refrigerator…remove them and loosen the Velcro holding the
refrigerant lines to the wood base.

14. Carefully loosen the free side of the proximately 6"x9"
foam piece (one side is glued the other free). There are 4 more small
pieces of foam that can be removed for cleaning

15. Now most of the condensing coil area is open to vacuum

16. Unscrew the two machine screws holding the condensing fan and
remove the fan noting the fan's orientation and thoroughly clean the
fan…replace the fan in the same orientation as you previously noted.

17. I changed the Electronic Unit. Frigoboat uses the same Danfoss
101N0210 unit on all of the Frigoboat refrigeration boxes on #387. I
had a spare so I replaced it when I cleaned the refrigerator. Be
careful. There are 8 pins for push-on connectors on the side of the
Electronic Unit and you will only use 7. The one you will not use is
the second +.

18. Reverse the procedure to reinstall.

NOTE: there is some side-to-side adjustment necessary when
replacing the thumb-bolts that secure the refrigerator to the wood base.
This side-to-side adjustment is necessary to get a good fit when
reinstalling the refrigerator.

We found it easier to make this adjustment after the refrigerator was
inserted about half-way into its place under the counter. So leave those
thumb-bolts loose until that point. Also we found that sliding the
refrigerator all the way to "port" on the wood base worked perfectly.

Best,

Bill
s/v BeBe SM2, #387
Currently Malaysia



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Frigoboat Refrigerator cycles off and on - Refrigerator Removal and Replacement

David Mackintosh <dlm48@...>
 

ooops you should not lay a fridge on its side or back or front and then put
it back into operation without allowing it to stand vertical for a few hours
i think 12 hours is recommended for a domestic unit. This is to allow the
refrigerant to drain back down and to ensure there is only gas in the
circuit and not any liquid.

regards

David

On 16 February 2010 02:04, svbebe <yahoogroups@...> wrote:



All,

I apologize for the double posting, but wanted to correct some errors
(step 9 is corrected and NOTE added).

I decided to remove the Frigoboat refrigerator, clean it and replace the
brain or electronic unit with a new Danfoss #101N0210. I have carried
this electronic unit in my spares because it is the same unit on all
three Frigoboat refrigerators/freezers.

I found a lot of dust and dirt (seven years worth). If you have five or
more years on your refrigerator, you should clean it. I also found a
broken fan wire that was intermittently making contact. I do not know
if my problem was need of cleaning, replacing the brain, or repairing
the almost broken fan wire, or all of the above; but the refrigerator
now works like new.

Here are the steps I followed:
1. Remove the wood trim beneath the refrigerator by unscrewing the 2
wood screws

2. Remove the floor in front of the refrigerator by removing the
"thumb-bolt" which you can reach through the floor hatch nearest
the companionway

3. Remove the "thumb-bolt" inside the left door under the
sink (door next to refrigerator)

4. Open the refrigerator door and remove the bolt on the left side of
the door wich is used by the door locking mechanism

5. The refrigerator can now be pulled out, but take care not to
damage the wood on the left side of the refrigeratorwe used a
plastic cutting-sheet between the wood and the refrigeratorit is a
tight fituse something or you will regret it.

6. Disconnect the + & - wires from the control box on the front of
the refrigerator and check to make sure they will run free when the
refrigerator is lifted out. On #387 these were White = + or Hot and
Blue = - or Neg.

7. Slide the refrigerator forward all of the way

8. From inside the left door under the sink uncouple the refrigerator
drain hose and make sure it will run free when the refrigerator is
lifted out.

9. Remove the door locking mechanism from the left side facing of the
refrigerator and remove the door by removing the upper and lower door
hinges

10. Lift the refrigerator straight up and over the washer

11. I used an old plastic tablecloth to protect the saloon table and
worked inside with the A/C runningI have learned how to do tough
jobs in the tropics.

12. Lay the refrigerator on its left side facing.

13. Find the two "thumb-bolts" securing the wood base to the
refrigeratorremove them and loosen the Velcro holding the
refrigerant lines to the wood base.

14. Carefully loosen the free side of the proximately 6"x9"
foam piece (one side is glued the other free). There are 4 more small
pieces of foam that can be removed for cleaning

15. Now most of the condensing coil area is open to vacuum

16. Unscrew the two machine screws holding the condensing fan and
remove the fan noting the fan's orientation and thoroughly clean the
fanreplace the fan in the same orientation as you previously noted.

17. I changed the Electronic Unit. Frigoboat uses the same Danfoss
101N0210 unit on all of the Frigoboat refrigeration boxes on #387. I
had a spare so I replaced it when I cleaned the refrigerator. Be
careful. There are 8 pins for push-on connectors on the side of the
Electronic Unit and you will only use 7. The one you will not use is
the second +.

18. Reverse the procedure to reinstall.

NOTE: there is some side-to-side adjustment necessary when
replacing the thumb-bolts that secure the refrigerator to the wood base.
This side-to-side adjustment is necessary to get a good fit when
reinstalling the refrigerator.

We found it easier to make this adjustment after the refrigerator was
inserted about half-way into its place under the counter. So leave those
thumb-bolts loose until that point. Also we found that sliding the
refrigerator all the way to "port" on the wood base worked perfectly.

Best,

Bill
s/v BeBe SM2, #387
Currently Malaysia



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Frigoboat Refrigerator cycles off and on - Refrigerator Removal and Replacement

svbebe <yahoogroups@...>
 

All,

I apologize for the double posting, but wanted to correct some errors
(step 9 is corrected and NOTE added).

I decided to remove the Frigoboat refrigerator, clean it and replace the
brain or electronic unit with a new Danfoss #101N0210. I have carried
this electronic unit in my spares because it is the same unit on all
three Frigoboat refrigerators/freezers.

I found a lot of dust and dirt (seven years worth). If you have five or
more years on your refrigerator, you should clean it. I also found a
broken fan wire that was intermittently making contact. I do not know
if my problem was need of cleaning, replacing the brain, or repairing
the almost broken fan wire, or all of the above; but the refrigerator
now works like new.

Here are the steps I followed:
1. Remove the wood trim beneath the refrigerator by unscrewing the 2
wood screws

2. Remove the floor in front of the refrigerator by removing the
"thumb-bolt" which you can reach through the floor hatch nearest
the companionway

3. Remove the "thumb-bolt" inside the left door under the
sink (door next to refrigerator)

4. Open the refrigerator door and remove the bolt on the left side of
the door wich is used by the door locking mechanism

5. The refrigerator can now be pulled out, but take care not to
damage the wood on the left side of the refrigerator…we used a
plastic cutting-sheet between the wood and the refrigerator…it is a
tight fit…use something or you will regret it.

6. Disconnect the + & - wires from the control box on the front of
the refrigerator and check to make sure they will run free when the
refrigerator is lifted out. On #387 these were White = + or Hot and
Blue = - or Neg.

7. Slide the refrigerator forward all of the way

8. From inside the left door under the sink uncouple the refrigerator
drain hose and make sure it will run free when the refrigerator is
lifted out.

9. Remove the door locking mechanism from the left side facing of the
refrigerator and remove the door by removing the upper and lower door hinges

10. Lift the refrigerator straight up and over the washer

11. I used an old plastic tablecloth to protect the saloon table and
worked inside with the A/C running…I have learned how to do tough
jobs in the tropics.

12. Lay the refrigerator on its left side facing.

13. Find the two "thumb-bolts" securing the wood base to the
refrigerator…remove them and loosen the Velcro holding the
refrigerant lines to the wood base.

14. Carefully loosen the free side of the proximately 6"x9"
foam piece (one side is glued the other free). There are 4 more small
pieces of foam that can be removed for cleaning

15. Now most of the condensing coil area is open to vacuum

16. Unscrew the two machine screws holding the condensing fan and
remove the fan noting the fan's orientation and thoroughly clean the
fan…replace the fan in the same orientation as you previously noted.

17. I changed the Electronic Unit. Frigoboat uses the same Danfoss
101N0210 unit on all of the Frigoboat refrigeration boxes on #387. I
had a spare so I replaced it when I cleaned the refrigerator. Be
careful. There are 8 pins for push-on connectors on the side of the
Electronic Unit and you will only use 7. The one you will not use is
the second +.

18. Reverse the procedure to reinstall.

NOTE: there is some side-to-side adjustment necessary when
replacing the thumb-bolts that secure the refrigerator to the wood base. This side-to-side adjustment is necessary to get a good fit when reinstalling the refrigerator.

We found it easier to make this adjustment after the refrigerator was inserted about half-way into its place under the counter. So leave those thumb-bolts loose until that point. Also we found that sliding the refrigerator all the way to "port" on the wood base worked perfectly.

Best,

Bill
s/v BeBe SM2, #387
Currently Malaysia


Re: [Amel] Super Maramu Frigoboat Refrigerator cycles off and on

john martin <symoondog@...>
 

Bill, It sounds like you have a leak in your freon line. Any good refrigeration mechanic can fix it. Get him to come aboard and check it out. If that is the case you will have to take it out and he will have to carry it to his shop to repair it. See past e-mails about getting it out. Basically you take the door off and you will find a screw knob in the sink cabinet and one under the floor, then just slide it out. Its the same as a household refrigerator so its not necessary to find a marine guy. I just had mine fixed, I had 2 leaks in the system. John "Moon Dog" SM248



To: amelyachtowners@...
From: yahoogroups@...
Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2010 03:39:16 +0000
Subject: [Amel] Super Maramu Frigoboat Refrigerator cycles off and on





Our Frigoboat refrigerator seems to be cooling and freezing fine, but when I hear the fan cycle off, it almost immediately turns back on again.

Has anyone experienced this?

Best,

Bill
BeBe, SM2, #387
Currently Malaysia





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