Date   

Volvo D3 24v Alternator not charging

 

Ralph, 

I am not exactly sure what you are asking, so I'll explain what I think you're asking. 

The 24v Matervolt 110 Alpha alternator requires excitement by 24 volts, or will self excite with higher rpm, and once excited at high rpm it will stay that way., 

As you know, the D3 has a 12v ignition circuit. The 12v ignition circuit closes a relay switch that is connected to the 24v house bank. Once this switch is closed, 24v goes to the 24v alternator excite circuit, causing the alternator to begin charging.

So, these are the possibilities (in order of probability):
  1. Some mechanic who doesn't understand this has disconnected everything to silence the alternator alarm. The mechanic then charges the owner 250 euros and says all is fixed. I know of at least 10 cases where this happened.
  2. The relay (pictured below, circled in green) needs replacing. 
  3. There is a bad or loose wire somewhere.
  4. Maybe the alternator has an internal problem
  5. Maybe the Alpha Pro regulator (pictured below, circled in red) has a problem.
  6. Maybe I read too much into your question
I hope this helps and thanks to Arno for the photo.

Bill
image.png

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   

On Sat, Apr 9, 2022, 11:10 Ralph Heilig <ralph.heilig@...> wrote:
Hi Bill,

thanks for your Information. 

This was and is a Diruptor Problem that only occured once (three years ago) after motoring 3 days non stop with higher rpm. In my case the Diruptor was so "preheated" that after 10 min use of the Watermaker the fuse triggered. Afer arrival and cool down, all back ok....it also never happend again, since I never did this kind of long high rpm crusing...

I had a complete raw water check. All ok. Last year I had to clean and decalc the Onan heat exchanger.

But do you have any Idea how to get the 24v Alternater charging at idle? That's a little annyoing...I don't know it it was always like this or when it started, but I recogniced it about two years ago.

Thanks,
Ralph


Re: Engine room heat

Ralph Heilig
 

Hi Bill,

thanks for your Information. 

This was and is a Diruptor Problem that only occured once (three years ago) after motoring 3 days non stop with higher rpm. In my case the Diruptor was so "preheated" that after 10 min use of the Watermaker the fuse triggered. Afer arrival and cool down, all back ok....it also never happend again, since I never did this kind of long high rpm crusing...

I had a complete raw water check. All ok. Last year I had to clean and decalc the Onan heat exchanger.

But do you have any Idea how to get the 24v Alternater charging at idle? That's a little annyoing...I don't know it it was always like this or when it started, but I recogniced it about two years ago.

Thanks,
Ralph


Re: fuel consumption A54

Ian Fraser
 

This is great information Ralph. Thank you.

I’m still learning the best sweet spot but agree that there are definitely some RPM’s that work better than others.

I also have instability at about 1,000 rpm. Reassuring that others have it and turbo makes sense.

On the issue of induced vibration, I get a disconcerting noise, only audible with engine hatch closed, in the saloon/passage berth but not discernible in the engine room, that sounds like the C-drive or other transmission grinding/vibrating at around 1,400rpm. My best bet is maybe the bushing that locates the bottom of the C-Drive to the keel is not in good shape or some weird prop/transmission harmonic. Both the transmission oil in the gearbox and the reservoir for the C-Drive look good, so maybe just a feature of this drive train?

Thanks again for your feedback.

Ian
Dreamtime A54009

 

On 9 Apr 2022, at 09:03, Ralph Heilig <ralph.heilig@...> wrote:

Hi David,

for me the nice spot for the D3C is between 1280 and 1340 rpm about 4 lt.  1420 rpm is also a sweet spot. Propeller is Autoprop H3. Before longer Motorpassages, I dive and clean the Prop. 

A couple of years ago I made a nonstop 100h Motorpassage with rpm 1640 -1720. I would not recommend it, because the whole Engine room gets pretty hot. Even the watermaker did not work anymore, because the fuses were too hot. Since the fuses in the Engine room are thermal fuses, you might get trouble with other equipment because of the hot fuses...

Also important for me is a balance between speed, noise and vibration. Over 1600 rpm it's getting noisy. Over 1800 it's getting very noisy AND a lot of Vibrations. When I go over 1800 rpm it feels for me that the boat is nearly falling apart (-: Strong Vibrations.

You will get a good feeling, what you and your boat "likes". At some rpm, the water level stick is producing vibration noise, At some rpm, the oven produces vibration noise and so on....

I think every boat has a slightly different "nice spot" without any annoying vibration or noise. My sweet spots are 1280 - 1340 and 1420. I rarely cruise under 1200. There is also one rpm area, I think it's around 1000 rpm, where my D3 does not hold the rpm. Thats the area where I think the turbo is Opening, but when opening the rpm goes up and the electronis are closing again which results in permanent rpm wandering up and down. 

The Idle rpm is about 700-750.

Maybe someone has the same: When running Idle, my 24V Mastervolt alternator is not charging. It starts charging at about 800-850 rpm. Any Idea how to get it charging at Idle? My Volvo technicians had no Idea. 

Ralph
Santa Isabell
A54 #144







Engine room heat

 

Ralph,

Your posting caught my attention. I write this to be helpful. I am not trying to be a smartass. I am only trying to help.

I believe that the ambient temperature of the engine room (ER) will not reach much higher than about 60C. If I am not mistaken it takes the breaker reaching 75C or higher to possibly cause the breaker to open, but I am not sure what temperature the French-made Dirupter's open.

The operating temperature of the main engine and Onan should be not much higher than about 80C, regardless of how long they have been running. The exhaust elbow reduces exhaust temperature to about 50C. The ER input and output blowers move enough air to change 100% of the ER air in a few minutes. Are both working?

Of course, the above temperatures assume that the raw water heat exchange system is working. Sufficient raw water flow is the #1 reason you will have heat issues and you cannot tell by looking at the exhaust to determine if it is sufficient. Measure the temperature of the oil filter with a laser temperature gun after the engine has operated long enough to reach operating temperature. 

The two blowers (input & output) are also very important.

Some hidden water flow issues can possibly be:
Clogged sea chest including the connection through the sea chest to the sea
Clogged hoses in the raw water pathway, in & out.
Clogged heat exchanger.
Clogged elbow and on Onan also the exhaust manifold.
Clogged oil cooler for ZF 25 transmission.
Raw water pump defect or worn impeller. A raw water impeller will lose substantial power when blade tips become worn.

If I were you I would check further to see if the cause of the high ER heat was possibly caused by something not operating as designed.

Again, I hope this helps you and/or any other owner.


Best,

CW Bill Rouse 
Amel Owners Yacht School
+1 832-380-4970 | brouse@...
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com 
Yacht School Calendar: www.preparetocastoff.blogspot.com/p/calendar.html


   

On Sat, Apr 9, 2022, 09:03 Ralph Heilig <ralph.heilig@...> wrote:
Hi David,

for me the nice spot for the D3C is between 1280 and 1340 rpm about 4 lt.  1420 rpm is also a sweet spot. Propeller is Autoprop H3. Before longer Motorpassages, I dive and clean the Prop. 

A couple of years ago I made a nonstop 100h Motorpassage with rpm 1640 -1720. I would not recommend it, because the whole Engine room gets pretty hot. Even the watermaker did not work anymore, because the fuses were too hot. Since the fuses in the Engine room are thermal fuses, you might get trouble with other equipment because of the hot fuses...

Also important for me is a balance between speed, noise and vibration. Over 1600 rpm it's getting noisy. Over 1800 it's getting very noisy AND a lot of Vibrations. When I go over 1800 rpm it feels for me that the boat is nearly falling apart (-: Strong Vibrations.

You will get a good feeling, what you and your boat "likes". At some rpm, the water level stick is producing vibration noise, At some rpm, the oven produces vibration noise and so on....

I think every boat has a slightly different "nice spot" without any annoying vibration or noise. My sweet spots are 1280 - 1340 and 1420. I rarely cruise under 1200. There is also one rpm area, I think it's around 1000 rpm, where my D3 does not hold the rpm. Thats the area where I think the turbo is Opening, but when opening the rpm goes up and the electronis are closing again which results in permanent rpm wandering up and down. 

The Idle rpm is about 700-750.

Maybe someone has the same: When running Idle, my 24V Mastervolt alternator is not charging. It starts charging at about 800-850 rpm. Any Idea how to get it charging at Idle? My Volvo technicians had no Idea. 

Ralph
Santa Isabell
A54 #144






Re: fuel consumption A54

Ralph Heilig
 

Hi David,

for me the nice spot for the D3C is between 1280 and 1340 rpm about 4 lt.  1420 rpm is also a sweet spot. Propeller is Autoprop H3. Before longer Motorpassages, I dive and clean the Prop. 

A couple of years ago I made a nonstop 100h Motorpassage with rpm 1640 -1720. I would not recommend it, because the whole Engine room gets pretty hot. Even the watermaker did not work anymore, because the fuses were too hot. Since the fuses in the Engine room are thermal fuses, you might get trouble with other equipment because of the hot fuses...

Also important for me is a balance between speed, noise and vibration. Over 1600 rpm it's getting noisy. Over 1800 it's getting very noisy AND a lot of Vibrations. When I go over 1800 rpm it feels for me that the boat is nearly falling apart (-: Strong Vibrations.

You will get a good feeling, what you and your boat "likes". At some rpm, the water level stick is producing vibration noise, At some rpm, the oven produces vibration noise and so on....

I think every boat has a slightly different "nice spot" without any annoying vibration or noise. My sweet spots are 1280 - 1340 and 1420. I rarely cruise under 1200. There is also one rpm area, I think it's around 1000 rpm, where my D3 does not hold the rpm. Thats the area where I think the turbo is Opening, but when opening the rpm goes up and the electronis are closing again which results in permanent rpm wandering up and down. 

The Idle rpm is about 700-750.

Maybe someone has the same: When running Idle, my 24V Mastervolt alternator is not charging. It starts charging at about 800-850 rpm. Any Idea how to get it charging at Idle? My Volvo technicians had no Idea. 

Ralph
Santa Isabell
A54 #144






Re: Santorin helm seat support pipe loose

Craig Briggs
 

So I finally got around to trying to fix the seat wobble. Cutting through the insulation in the engine room under the seat I found two bolts going through a plate welded to the bottom of the seat pipe (I could see the circular discoloration of the weld on the plate). When I tried to tighten the bolts I could hear some "crunching" as though there was maybe a broken rusted bracket or something into which the bolts were fastened. One bolt seemed to tighten but the other just turned and I could hear something rotating as I turned the bolt. The one that seemed to tighten actually became wobbly and would not tighten further.

Before I go to cutting an access hole in the pyramidal fiberglass base of the post, does anyone know what the actual structure is inside of it? My guess is Amel may have used a plain steel threaded backing plate embedded in the fiberglass floor that is inside the pyramid base. Water then has seeped down the seat post, where the sealant has cracked over the years, and rusted out the plate. Many of us have had that happen (Bill Rouse when he owned Bebe had it on his engine room hatch, which swelled the GRP, I've had it on a stanchion base that actually cracked the gunnel open, etc.)

Any insights will be very much appreciated.

Thanks in advance,
Craig Briggs - s/v Sangaris / SN68  Tropic Isle Harbor, FL


Re: Several Important things that you will want

Slavko Despotovic
 

No, I did not. Position of the new manifold is more to the right. The main hose to seawater intake is shorter than previous one. It required longer hose for anchor washing pump as well. Manifold is positioned little higher than old one due to the size of new fittings with cutoff valve. I was sitting in engine room for hour before making any move. One has to be careful as there you have freshwater hose from deck and smaller one for the freshwater. The hoses for toilet pumps are shorter.
--
Slavko
SM 2000
#279 Bonne Anse in Croatia


Re: drop LiFePo4 batteries vs LiFePo4 cells in a bundled pack #solution

David Vogel
 

Here are some more interesting resources:

 

https://diysolarforum.com/resources/luyuan-tech-basic-lifepo4-guide.151/download

 

https://www.betterbatterydesign.com/blog/2018/6/19/series-parallel

 

https://diysolarforum.com/resources/cell-configurations-for-12v-24v-and-48v-lifepo4-batteries.42/

 

Best,

 

David

SM#396, Perigee

NZ

 

 

From: <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Matt & Michelle <charlesmatthewday@...>
Reply to: <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Date: Friday, 8 April 2022 at 11:27 pm
To: <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] drop LiFePo4 batteries vs LiFePo4 cells in a bundled pack #solution

 

Dean,

Well damn...Many thanks for the clarity of the nomenclature.  Great information, and a fun learning opportunity.

Matt


511 Autopilot

Denis Elborn
 

Hi All,

 

I’ve replaced my single Furuno 511 auto pilot with a pair of 711’s so have for sale the 511 computer and control head both in good working order complete with manuals.

If interested please contact me on delborn at bigpond dot com 

Regards
Den
SV Fortune
A54-159


Re: drop LiFePo4 batteries vs LiFePo4 cells in a bundled pack #solution

EricOpdeweegh
 

Hi Dean,

 

Based on the diagram of the SM  bowtruster amperage that I was pointed out to on the Amel Owners Group (made by SM2K CottonBay) the peak current of the bowtruster is 950 A for 10msec and the continuous current 550 A if I am correct.

I am not so familiar with the A54 and what bowtruster you have but are the peak and continuous Amperage the same or much different?

 

The BMS’s that PureAcell would use are Helltec 24V200A-2A balance. These seem not enough with a 2p8s set with two BMS’s taking into account the bowtruster amperage.

 

What active BMS do you use on your 16x 270Ah cells in a 2p8S configuration? Assume you have two? What Amperage can they both handle?

 

What is the solution?

 

Regards

 

Eric Opdeweegh

Sv Abayomi SM 158

Phone  +31621240217

Email     sv.abayomi@...

 

 

 

 

  

 

Van: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> Namens Dean Gillies
Verzonden: vrijdag 8 april 2022 01:51
Aan: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Onderwerp: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] drop LiFePo4 batteries vs LiFePo4 cells in a bundled pack #solution

 

Hi Matt,
Thanks for clearing that up. I agree entirely with your analysis, and it doesn't sound like "bloviating", more like music to my ears :)

The reason for my original question was that the terminology "2p6s" or "2p8s" is normally used to describe the topology of batteries which are made up of multiple cells. The "p" refers to parallel, and the "s" refers to series.  So a 2p6s battery would be comprised of 6 pairs of paralleled cells where all 6 pairs are connected in series.  A "2p8s" would thus be a series string of 8x paralleled pairs (which is what I installed for the LiFePO4 part of my battery bank ... 16x 270Ah cells in a 2p8S configuration, giving 540Ah/25.6V)). 

For LiFePO4 200Ah prismatic cells with a nominal voltage of 3.2V, then a cell topology of 2p6s would result in a 400Ah/19.2V battery!! Whereas if you were referring to a set of Victron 200Ah/12.8V "batteries" in a "2p6s" configuration then that would be 400Ah/76.8V!  

In the normal terminology, I suspect you have a 8s3p configuration of cells (which you could also describe as a 2s3p configuration of "batteries", i.e. 3x strings of 2 batteries in series and all three strings connected in parallel).

Normally I would have put the "6" down to a typo that should have been "8", but your emphasis was on the "6" so I reckoned that you really meant "6" ... and that was interesting lol.

Dean
SV Stella
A54-154


Re: Several Important things that you will want

Christian Sloane
 

Awesome. Did you have to move your pre filters for the water maker and if so, to where did you move them? You give me the courage to tackle this one my next trip! 
Christian
Escapades
SM #350
Ensenada, mx


On Apr 8, 2022, at 12:35 PM, Slavko Despotovic <slavko@...> wrote:

Todaj I installed new Manifold, It was not that easy, took me 8 hours but finally it was done. Attached are some photos.

--
Slavko
SM 2000
#279 Bonne Anse in Croatia


Re: Several Important things that you will want

 

Thanks for the photos. Dealing with installing the original copper one isn't that easy either.

I am sure your happy about 3 things:
1.) No more copper 
2.) Actual barbed hose fittings
3.) A cutoff valve for each device

Best,

CW Bill Rouse 
Amel Owners Yacht School
+1 832-380-4970 | brouse@...
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com 
Yacht School Calendar: www.preparetocastoff.blogspot.com/p/calendar.html


   


On Fri, Apr 8, 2022, 15:35 Slavko Despotovic <slavko@...> wrote:
Todaj I installed new Manifold, It was not that easy, took me 8 hours but finally it was done. Attached are some photos.

--
Slavko
SM 2000
#279 Bonne Anse in Croatia


Re: SM Passerelle/ladder lost at sea

Slavko Despotovic
 

Hi Jose,

will do the measurements and photos by the middle of next week. I am home for the weekend and will go back to the boat on Monday.

Best regards,

Slavko

On 8 Apr 2022, at 18:45, Jose Venegas via groups.io <josegvenegas@...> wrote:

Slavko,
Thanks a lot for your offer.  I was trying to buy one but that did not work.  It would be great if you could measure it and send me some pictures of the details, particularly those of the pins and little wheels that go on the top of the ladder and serve to attach to the rub rail when used as a ladder, or to rotate over the deck when it is in the passerelle mode 

Definitely, both boats were together at La Rochelle

Jose
Ipanema SM2K #278
Cartagena, Colombia


--
Slavko
SM 2000
#279 Bonne Anse in Croatia


Re: Several Important things that you will want

Slavko Despotovic
 

Todaj I installed new Manifold, It was not that easy, took me 8 hours but finally it was done. Attached are some photos.

--
Slavko
SM 2000
#279 Bonne Anse in Croatia


Re: SM Passerelle/ladder lost at sea

Jose Venegas
 

Slavko,
Thanks a lot for your offer.  I was trying to buy one but that did not work.  It would be great if you could measure it and send me some pictures of the details, particularly those of the pins and little wheels that go on the top of the ladder and serve to attach to the rub rail when used as a ladder, or to rotate over the deck when it is in the passerelle mode 

Definitely, both boats were together at La Rochelle

Jose
Ipanema SM2K #278
Cartagena, Colombia


Re: Hole in the rudder

Craig Briggs
 

Hi Berndt,
I don't have that on my SN.
Perhaps it's that newly discovered teredo navalis species that mutated after Chernobyl and is now infesting fiberglass boats.
--
Cheers, Craig Briggs - s/v Sangaris / SN68  Tropic Isle Harbor, FL


Re: drop LiFePo4 batteries vs LiFePo4 cells in a bundled pack #solution

Matt & Michelle
 

Dean,

Well damn...Many thanks for the clarity of the nomenclature.  Great information, and a fun learning opportunity.

Matt


looking for a Super Maramu

Alessandro Varago
 

Hello Amelians,
I'm looking to buy a Super Maramu as posted here: looking for a Super Maramu (groups.io)
I thank all those who can help me
fair winds,
alessandro


Re: 2l Email

Gerhard Mueller
 

Who is sending you duplicate mails?
They are only from AmelYachtOwners.group.io or also from other parts?
If from the latter you have obviously misconfigured your email software, email provider or the such.
You should first check this.
BTW at your homepage I was not able to enter your impressum.
--
Gerhard Mueller
Amel Sharki #60
Currently North Sea, Germany


Hole in the rudder

Bernd Spanner
 

Found this „worm hole“ on my SN  rudder… 🧐 
Any ideas what it could be? My guess is that it is a lightning ⚡️ exit hole….
--
Bernd
SN 119 / Cascais, Portugal

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