Date   

Re: fuel consumption A54

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Ralph. The SM and 54 apart from scale are the same system. As I said in my previous starting from the bottom the possibilities are. Propeller, OK it's been serviced but a passing lump of wood or other could have damaged it
 C drive connection to keel. Then alignment of motor/ gearbox to the c drive and the vetus coupling. Then the engine mounts. A vigorous shake of the engine and visual can usually identify engine mount issues. The vetus coupling. Rock it back and forth by hand.  Is it clunky, are the 4 bolts tight. If the vetus is clunky or the bolts are loose you need to separate it and check what is going on. Running the boat in gear at the dock does not mimick actual use because of the auto props self adjustment to load.
Happy hunting but know this. Excessive ( how can you define that. I think your description is excessive vibration) vibration is not normal. Of course at higher revs engine noise is greater but given the Amel engine room sound proofing it should not be Intrusive.
Kind regards
Danny
SM 299
Ocean Pearl

On 10/04/2022 20:23 Ralph Heilig <ralph.heilig@...> wrote:


Thanks Doug, Porter and Danny

I will start investigating the Vibrations. If found a couple of topics with instructions for SM. Is it the same for the A54? Did you do it by yourself or some specialists? Also: Is the Alignment tool (if needed) the same dimensions for SM and A54? Where can I get such a Alignemt tool or has everyone let them build by some specialists?

Maybe I did not find it. But where to start investigating the vibration issue? Could you reproduce the vibration while docked? During wintertime I always start the engine and also let the prop run with low rpm. Did you test and search while docked? 

I have to check next time on the boat, if I can reproduce the vibrations while docked with running prop. I normaly only run with low rpm while docked, just to keep the propeller clean, but I think I can also go to 1500 or so and should be able to check the virbrations in the engine room...

The Prop is surely not the Problem. I sent my H6 to Autoprop Italy for a complete refit last year.

Thanks,
Ralph
SantaIsabella
A54 #144


Re: fuel consumption A54

Ralph Heilig
 

Thanks Doug, Porter and Danny

I will start investigating the Vibrations. If found a couple of topics with instructions for SM. Is it the same for the A54? Did you do it by yourself or some specialists? Also: Is the Alignment tool (if needed) the same dimensions for SM and A54? Where can I get such a Alignemt tool or has everyone let them build by some specialists?

Maybe I did not find it. But where to start investigating the vibration issue? Could you reproduce the vibration while docked? During wintertime I always start the engine and also let the prop run with low rpm. Did you test and search while docked? 

I have to check next time on the boat, if I can reproduce the vibrations while docked with running prop. I normaly only run with low rpm while docked, just to keep the propeller clean, but I think I can also go to 1500 or so and should be able to check the virbrations in the engine room...

The Prop is surely not the Problem. I sent my H6 to Autoprop Italy for a complete refit last year.

Thanks,
Ralph
SantaIsabella
A54 #144


Re: drop LiFePo4 batteries vs LiFePo4 cells in a bundled pack #solution

Dean Gillies
 

Eric,
I've answered your email with the details you need.
Dean
SV Stella
A54-154 


Re: drop LiFePo4 batteries vs LiFePo4 cells in a bundled pack #solution

Dean Gillies
 

David,
When I started considering a new LFP installation a few years ago, it occurred to me that a hybrid system had significant advantages.  Only a few people were talking about it, and the most common scaremongering was "you can't mix different chemistries!", but no other explanation was forthcoming.  As is often the case, people hear this catchy-phrase and simply repeat it.  I spent a long time investigating hybrid options and ended up building a test system at home during the winter and I eventually gained confidence that what I wanted to build was both safe and operationally useful.  Since then many others have also gone down this path, and more and more examples of hybrid solutions are appearing online as you noted.

I think it's really important to have a good solid understanding of why you want to install a hybrid system, and to understand fully the ramifications from a systems engineering perspective.  Changing from a conventional LA battery system to a LFP system is challenging enough, moving to a hybrid solution is another level of design complexity.  It's definitely not for everyone!        

Some owners of existing LA battery systems might want to retain their investment in LA and look to add LFP to their LA system to provide more overall capacity. This is actually quite a challenging hybrid solution, and will often require switchgear to bring the different parts of the system on and off-line in order to maximise capacity. I didn't like that approach.

I approached the design not from the perspective of getting more capacity per se, rather I consider the main function of my LA component to be simply a back-up, which will be rarely used. 

Conventional LA systems are to a great extent "uninterruptible", whereas LFP systems are inherently interruptible and can disconnect for all sorts of reasons.  If a battery system on a boat is disconnected suddenly it can result in many problems ranging from failed alternators and electronic equipment to significant navigational safety risks.  Murphy tells us that it will always disconnect at the worst possible moment. 

I cruise on my boat six months of the year, and for the other six months the boat is in storage.  LFP systems can be difficult to manage for long periods in storage.  They should not be allowed to dwell at high states of charge for long periods. There is much debate about how to manage this, and many different approaches from the manufacturers of LFP batteries. Its soluble, but tricky if you have "drop-in" batteries (and by that I mean batteries with their own individual embedded BMS) since the BMS will slowly consume power and the battery therefor must be periodically charged.  In contrast, a LA battery is very amenable to continuous float charging at a high state of charge.    

Another "problem" with LFP batteries in an Amel 54 is that they are simply not heavy enough to counter-balance the mass of the generator as Henri intended.  No one wants that "Lithium List" to port.  Having a bit more lead on the STBD side surely helps. 
    
With my hybrid design I wanted to address those LFP problems, particularly the disconnecting risk.
I wanted to have full control of the entire battery and charge/discharge system so I chose not to use drop-in batteries and designed a system based on  LFP cells and AGM, using an external discrete contactor and a BMS which integrates closely with the Victron hardware.  My AGM batteries are almost always online and floating in a fully charged state, and my LFP cells operate between about 25% and 95% SOC.  In the event of any LFP disconnect event, my AGM batteries are already online, and the DC power bus is in effect uninterruptible.

When I store the boat, I set the SOC to 60-70% and disconnect the LFP cells, and the AGM batteries float for 6 months.
And the extra 64kg of AGM helps with the "Lithium List" problem.

As I planned the system, the clincher for me was that the cost of the new hybrid battery system was cheaper than the cost of simply replacing the original 13x AGM batteries. (Not including my time spent, which was significant!)

David, if you or anyone else is interested in discussing more technical details of my hybrid solution then feel free to email me. I'm going deep for the next 72 hours, but after that I'll be happily onboard Stella once more. 

Cheers
Dean
SV Stella
A54-154
(Currently in Almerimar, Spain)
 

  

  


   
 


Re: Standalone Inverter as an AC IN source to a Victron MultiPlus

David Vogel
 

Thanks Peter, for the heads-up on this - very interesting to watch.

Cheers,

David

On 10/4/2022, 3:06 pm, "Peter Luke via groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io on behalf of pluke31@...> wrote:

David,

I have recently looked at a YouTube channel where your scenario was
demonstrated.

It was done with a MultiPlus & a Phoenix but, being both Victron, the
result may match your needs.

Anyway, here is the link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SsTkgoN6ENM

Regards,
Peter
Future Amel Owner
Victoria, Australia

On 10/04/2022 11:03 am, David Vogel wrote:
> Greetings all,
>
> In the vein of the hybrid Pb-LiFePO4 battery setups under discussion in this group, I have a question regarding a potential hybrid Inverter-MultiPlus configuration.
>
> One of the features of the VICTRON MultiPlus is the ability to boost an incoming AC source, such as Shore Power (say, 16A, or 2.5kW (at 220vac)) or GenSet (say, 32A, or 7kW), by adding up to the nominal capacity of the Mulitplus (say, 3,000W), to support AC loads totalling up to 10kW (or more). This is the so-called PowerAssist functionality, and one of the reasons for choosing a MultiPlus in the first place, and installing the 50A pass-though model in preference to a 16A pass-though model.
>
> Has anyone set their system up so as to take the output of a standalone inverter as an input to a MultiPlus? Reason for why you might wish to do this, would be to supplement the MultiPlus inverting capacity with a second inverter, while avoiding the need to start the genset (or plug in shore-power), or install a second (or larger) MultiPlus. The use-case under consideration: leaving the existing 1,500W pure-sinewave inverter in place, and installing the 3,000W MultiPlus 'behind' (or downstream of) the existing AMEL K1/K2 transfer switches. The MultiPlus would then see the inverter simply as another (switched) AC source. If I wish to boost the MultiPlus capacity, such as due temporary loads (e.g. convection/fan-forced oven plus induction hobs), simply switch on the existing stand-alone inverter, utlising the cabling and switch gear already in place. Most of the time, however, the stand-alone inverter would be switched off (at the CB in the engine room), leaving the MultiPlus do its thing as the primary inverter, and using the genset if wishing to exceed the combined capacity of the Inverter+MultiPlus.
>
> An alternative configuration would be to install the MultiPlus between K1 and K2 transfer switches - providing redundancy for inverting capacity in the event of a failure of the MultiPlus, but with no access to the Inverter+MultiPlus combined capacity, each piece of equipment then standing alone.
>
> Any thoughts, suggestions or comments would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> David
> SM#396, Perigee
> NZ
>
>
>
>
>


Re: Standalone Inverter as an AC IN source to a Victron MultiPlus

Peter Luke
 

David,

I have recently looked at a YouTube channel where your scenario was demonstrated.

It was done with a MultiPlus & a Phoenix but, being both Victron, the result may match your needs.

Anyway, here is the link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SsTkgoN6ENM

Regards,
Peter
Future Amel Owner
Victoria, Australia

On 10/04/2022 11:03 am, David Vogel wrote:
Greetings all,

In the vein of the hybrid Pb-LiFePO4 battery setups under discussion in this group, I have a question regarding a potential hybrid Inverter-MultiPlus configuration.

One of the features of the VICTRON MultiPlus is the ability to boost an incoming AC source, such as Shore Power (say, 16A, or 2.5kW (at 220vac)) or GenSet (say, 32A, or 7kW), by adding up to the nominal capacity of the Mulitplus (say, 3,000W), to support AC loads totalling up to 10kW (or more). This is the so-called PowerAssist functionality, and one of the reasons for choosing a MultiPlus in the first place, and installing the 50A pass-though model in preference to a 16A pass-though model.

Has anyone set their system up so as to take the output of a standalone inverter as an input to a MultiPlus? Reason for why you might wish to do this, would be to supplement the MultiPlus inverting capacity with a second inverter, while avoiding the need to start the genset (or plug in shore-power), or install a second (or larger) MultiPlus. The use-case under consideration: leaving the existing 1,500W pure-sinewave inverter in place, and installing the 3,000W MultiPlus 'behind' (or downstream of) the existing AMEL K1/K2 transfer switches. The MultiPlus would then see the inverter simply as another (switched) AC source. If I wish to boost the MultiPlus capacity, such as due temporary loads (e.g. convection/fan-forced oven plus induction hobs), simply switch on the existing stand-alone inverter, utlising the cabling and switch gear already in place. Most of the time, however, the stand-alone inverter would be switched off (at the CB in the engine room), leaving the MultiPlus do its thing as the primary inverter, and using the genset if wishing to exceed the combined capacity of the Inverter+MultiPlus.

An alternative configuration would be to install the MultiPlus between K1 and K2 transfer switches - providing redundancy for inverting capacity in the event of a failure of the MultiPlus, but with no access to the Inverter+MultiPlus combined capacity, each piece of equipment then standing alone.

Any thoughts, suggestions or comments would be appreciated.

Thanks,

David
SM#396, Perigee
NZ




Re: fuel consumption A54

Nick Newington
 

Hi Ralph,
I think others have covered everything but I can only add that you can calculate  the actual RPM of the 24v alternator by multiplying engine RPM by the pulley ratio.
So if for example the crank shaft pulley on the engine has a 20 cm diameter and the alternator pulley is 10cm then the ratio is 2:1
Thus at engine 750 the alternator is rotating at 1500 RPM.
Now go check the specs of the alternator as to the amps produced at 1500 RPM and compare with what you get.
So first measure the pulleys and then calculate the ratio.
You may find that the alternator needs the higher RPM to kick in.

Nick
s/y Amelia
AML 54-019
Leros


On 9 Apr 2022, at 23:50, Ralph Heilig <ralph.heilig@...> wrote:

Thanks Danny,

My engine gets louder as more rpm I use. If I sleep in the Master Room, it makes a big differnce it the engine runs with 1200 -1300 rpm or over 1800 rpm. I will try to get some dB measures this season. I thougt it is normal, that it's getting louder. It's new for me, that it should be the same noise over the rpm range.

I have to check...

Ralph
Santa Isabella
A54, #144


Standalone Inverter as an AC IN source to a Victron MultiPlus

David Vogel
 

Greetings all,

In the vein of the hybrid Pb-LiFePO4 battery setups under discussion in this group, I have a question regarding a potential hybrid Inverter-MultiPlus configuration.

One of the features of the VICTRON MultiPlus is the ability to boost an incoming AC source, such as Shore Power (say, 16A, or 2.5kW (at 220vac)) or GenSet (say, 32A, or 7kW), by adding up to the nominal capacity of the Mulitplus (say, 3,000W), to support AC loads totalling up to 10kW (or more). This is the so-called PowerAssist functionality, and one of the reasons for choosing a MultiPlus in the first place, and installing the 50A pass-though model in preference to a 16A pass-though model.

Has anyone set their system up so as to take the output of a standalone inverter as an input to a MultiPlus? Reason for why you might wish to do this, would be to supplement the MultiPlus inverting capacity with a second inverter, while avoiding the need to start the genset (or plug in shore-power), or install a second (or larger) MultiPlus. The use-case under consideration: leaving the existing 1,500W pure-sinewave inverter in place, and installing the 3,000W MultiPlus 'behind' (or downstream of) the existing AMEL K1/K2 transfer switches. The MultiPlus would then see the inverter simply as another (switched) AC source. If I wish to boost the MultiPlus capacity, such as due temporary loads (e.g. convection/fan-forced oven plus induction hobs), simply switch on the existing stand-alone inverter, utlising the cabling and switch gear already in place. Most of the time, however, the stand-alone inverter would be switched off (at the CB in the engine room), leaving the MultiPlus do its thing as the primary inverter, and using the genset if wishing to exceed the combined capacity of the Inverter+MultiPlus.

An alternative configuration would be to install the MultiPlus between K1 and K2 transfer switches - providing redundancy for inverting capacity in the event of a failure of the MultiPlus, but with no access to the Inverter+MultiPlus combined capacity, each piece of equipment then standing alone.

Any thoughts, suggestions or comments would be appreciated.

Thanks,

David
SM#396, Perigee
NZ


Re: Volvo D3 24v Alternator not charging

Bill Kinney
 

It is normal that alternator charging at 800RPM is not significant.  It is expected and typical.

At an engine RPM of 700 or 800 the alternator is barely turning fast enough to generate power.  It takes an engine RPM of about 1200 to 1500 before the alternator actually generates anywhere near its rated output.  It’s a complicated issue, but especially if the batteries are near full you can expect very little output from the alternator at idle RPM on the main engine.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Ragged Island, Bahamas


Re: drop LiFePo4 batteries vs LiFePo4 cells in a bundled pack #solution

David Vogel
 

Hi All,

A further blog proposing an OpenSource Battery System Management System for those DIY-ers contemplating a hybrid Lead-Acid<->Lithium (LiFePO4) setup (https://www.zwerfcat.nl/en/lithium-on-yachts.html).

With the stern advice from one particularly highly regarded marine electrical and electronics guru, re a hybrid Pb-LiFePO4 install, saying simply "DON'T DO IT! (!!!)", yet others saying "sure, I've done it, no problems", I must admit I'm confused.

Still trying to come to some kind of decision on all of this. But, in the interim, hope that this ZwerfCat reference adds meaningfully to the gestalt.

David
SM#396, Perigee
NZ

From: <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of rossirossix4 <rossidesigngroup@...>
Reply to: <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Date: Sunday, 10 April 2022 at 11:57 am
To: <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] drop LiFePo4 batteries vs LiFePo4 cells in a bundled pack #solution

Regarding the idea of combining  lithium and lead acid batteries.  A while ago I caught a couple of videos on YouTube regarding the use of a "BankManager" system which does just that.  Information on this system and links to videos is here.-- https://www.emilyandclarksadventure.com/bbms  I would be interested in what others think. 

Bob
KAIMI SM 429


Re: drop LiFePo4 batteries vs LiFePo4 cells in a bundled pack #solution

rossirossix4
 

Regarding the idea of combining  lithium and lead acid batteries.  A while ago I caught a couple of videos on YouTube regarding the use of a "BankManager" system which does just that.  Information on this system and links to videos is here.-- https://www.emilyandclarksadventure.com/bbms  I would be interested in what others think. 

Bob

KAIMI SM 429


Re: fuel consumption A54

Porter McRoberts
 

Agree with Danny and Doug as well.
Our experience was the same: vibration means something is amiss and you need to investigate.  Use the comfortable bands of rpm to get where you need to go.  Malalignment leads to wear on the Vetus rubber coupling, which then leads to imbalance and further vibration.  In alignment it's completely obvious, smooth running over a wide ranges of rpms.  Also don’t forget the prop! 
Porter
A54-152 IBIS
Newcastle, AUS

On Apr 10, 2022, at 9:09 AM, Doug Smith via groups.io <dugsmith98@...> wrote:

Agree with Danny. 
My 54 had some vibrations at higher RPMs, above 1700. It was clear that something was out of alignment. After separating the Vetus coupling, my rubber donuts that dampen the shock loads were worn out. Replacing those and aligning and I was able to get to 3000 and yes, more noise, but vibration was still pretty mild and it felt like a boat at high RPMs. 
The prop can also do this and affect the RPM achieved. So can the turbo. But a turbo shouldn’t give a vibration that shakes the boat. 
Engine mounts, then Vetus coupling and alignment. Then at a haul out check the auto prop. There are email threads on each of these throughout the list serve. 
As Olivier showed me, when doing the survey on my boat, vibration can lead to a catastrophic failure of the drive train. Going at lower RPMs is a temporizing measure and has been successful so far but sometimes you need the power of higher RPMs and that will also be when it fails you. 

Thanks, Doug Smith

Amel 54-113, Aventura
White Point Marina
Kinsale VA, USA

On Apr 9, 2022, at 5:50 PM, Ralph Heilig <ralph.heilig@...> wrote:

Thanks Danny,

My engine gets louder as more rpm I use. If I sleep in the Master Room, it makes a big differnce it the engine runs with 1200 -1300 rpm or over 1800 rpm. I will try to get some dB measures this season. I thougt it is normal, that it's getting louder. It's new for me, that it should be the same noise over the rpm range.

I have to check...

Ralph
Santa Isabella
A54, #144


Re: fuel consumption A54

Doug Smith
 

Agree with Danny. 
My 54 had some vibrations at higher RPMs, above 1700. It was clear that something was out of alignment. After separating the Vetus coupling, my rubber donuts that dampen the shock loads were worn out. Replacing those and aligning and I was able to get to 3000 and yes, more noise, but vibration was still pretty mild and it felt like a boat at high RPMs. 
The prop can also do this and affect the RPM achieved. So can the turbo. But a turbo shouldn’t give a vibration that shakes the boat. 
Engine mounts, then Vetus coupling and alignment. Then at a haul out check the auto prop. There are email threads on each of these throughout the list serve. 
As Olivier showed me, when doing the survey on my boat, vibration can lead to a catastrophic failure of the drive train. Going at lower RPMs is a temporizing measure and has been successful so far but sometimes you need the power of higher RPMs and that will also be when it fails you. 

Thanks, Doug Smith

Amel 54-113, Aventura
White Point Marina
Kinsale VA, USA
Dugsmith98@...

On Apr 9, 2022, at 5:50 PM, Ralph Heilig <ralph.heilig@...> wrote:

Thanks Danny,

My engine gets louder as more rpm I use. If I sleep in the Master Room, it makes a big differnce it the engine runs with 1200 -1300 rpm or over 1800 rpm. I will try to get some dB measures this season. I thougt it is normal, that it's getting louder. It's new for me, that it should be the same noise over the rpm range.

I have to check...

Ralph
Santa Isabella
A54, #144


Re: fuel consumption A54

Ralph Heilig
 

Thanks Danny,

My engine gets louder as more rpm I use. If I sleep in the Master Room, it makes a big differnce it the engine runs with 1200 -1300 rpm or over 1800 rpm. I will try to get some dB measures this season. I thougt it is normal, that it's getting louder. It's new for me, that it should be the same noise over the rpm range.

I have to check...

Ralph
Santa Isabella
A54, #144


Re: fuel consumption A54

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Ralph, I remain of the opinion that excessive noise and vibration not normal and is an issue that needs to be resolved.
Kind Regards
Danny
SM 299 Ocean Pearl

On 10/04/2022 09:19 Ralph Heilig <ralph.heilig@...> wrote:


I can't compare it with a SM, I was in Hyere 5 years ago at Amel for some service works and we made a test drive and they said all I feel as "lot of vibrations" is normal. The wording "falling apart" might be a bit overstated but over 1800 it is absolutely NOT virbation free. But maybe some other A54 can share there experience. 


Re: fuel consumption A54

Ralph Heilig
 

I can't compare it with a SM, I was in Hyere 5 years ago at Amel for some service works and we made a test drive and they said all I feel as "lot of vibrations" is normal. The wording "falling apart" might be a bit overstated but over 1800 it is absolutely NOT virbation free. But maybe some other A54 can share there experience. 


Re: fuel consumption A54

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Ralph, I concur with Bill R regarding engine room temperature. However he didn't touch on your vibration issue. You have something out of balance there. My SM is quiet and vibration free through the complete rev range right through to max at 3000rpm. Your comment that the boat feels like its going to fall apart at over 1800 would indicate to me you need to investigate the cause before damage occurs.. Starting from the bottom: Propeller fouling, propeller damage, c drive/ keel attachment, engine/c drive misalignment or engine mount failure. I would start with a good look at the engine mounts
Kind Regards
Danny
SM 299 Ocean Pearl

On 10/04/2022 01:03 Ralph Heilig <ralph.heilig@...> wrote:


Hi David,

for me the nice spot for the D3C is between 1280 and 1340 rpm about 4 lt.  1420 rpm is also a sweet spot. Propeller is Autoprop H3. Before longer Motorpassages, I dive and clean the Prop. 

A couple of years ago I made a nonstop 100h Motorpassage with rpm 1640 -1720. I would not recommend it, because the whole Engine room gets pretty hot. Even the watermaker did not work anymore, because the fuses were too hot. Since the fuses in the Engine room are thermal fuses, you might get trouble with other equipment because of the hot fuses...

Also important for me is a balance between speed, noise and vibration. Over 1600 rpm it's getting noisy. Over 1800 it's getting very noisy AND a lot of Vibrations. When I go over 1800 rpm it feels for me that the boat is nearly falling apart (-: Strong Vibrations.

You will get a good feeling, what you and your boat "likes". At some rpm, the water level stick is producing vibration noise, At some rpm, the oven produces vibration noise and so on....

I think every boat has a slightly different "nice spot" without any annoying vibration or noise. My sweet spots are 1280 - 1340 and 1420. I rarely cruise under 1200. There is also one rpm area, I think it's around 1000 rpm, where my D3 does not hold the rpm. Thats the area where I think the turbo is Opening, but when opening the rpm goes up and the electronis are closing again which results in permanent rpm wandering up and down. 

The Idle rpm is about 700-750.

Maybe someone has the same: When running Idle, my 24V Mastervolt alternator is not charging. It starts charging at about 800-850 rpm. Any Idea how to get it charging at Idle? My Volvo technicians had no Idea. 

Ralph
Santa Isabell
A54 #144






Re: Volvo D3 24v Alternator not charging

Bruno COTTE
 

Yes it is normal . 

Envoyé de mon iPhone

Le 9 avr. 2022 à 19:23, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> a écrit :


It is possible that by design, the alternator/regulator may not send any output at 800 rpm

Best,

CW Bill Rouse 
Amel Owners Yacht School
+1 832-380-4970 | brouse@...
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com 
Yacht School Calendar: www.preparetocastoff.blogspot.com/p/calendar.html


   

On Sat, Apr 9, 2022, 13:07 Ralph Heilig <ralph.heilig@...> wrote:
Thanks Bill,

I will check next week. 

The symptoms I have:

When I start the Engine and it Idles at 700 rpm, the Link 10 Batterie Monitor shows no charging (no running bar)
It starts charging when rpm is increased to about 800 rpm, then working fine. Link 10 shows charging (running bar)
When going back under 800 rpm then stopping charging ( no running bar)

It's not a big problem, since on cruise It's working fine and at anchorage I use the generator. I was just wondering if I am the only one and something is wrong or if it's normal. As I wrote, I recogniced this behavior two or three years ago...

Thanks,
Ralph


Re: Volvo D3 24v Alternator not charging

 

It is possible that by design, the alternator/regulator may not send any output at 800 rpm

Best,

CW Bill Rouse 
Amel Owners Yacht School
+1 832-380-4970 | brouse@...
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com 
Yacht School Calendar: www.preparetocastoff.blogspot.com/p/calendar.html


   

On Sat, Apr 9, 2022, 13:07 Ralph Heilig <ralph.heilig@...> wrote:
Thanks Bill,

I will check next week. 

The symptoms I have:

When I start the Engine and it Idles at 700 rpm, the Link 10 Batterie Monitor shows no charging (no running bar)
It starts charging when rpm is increased to about 800 rpm, then working fine. Link 10 shows charging (running bar)
When going back under 800 rpm then stopping charging ( no running bar)

It's not a big problem, since on cruise It's working fine and at anchorage I use the generator. I was just wondering if I am the only one and something is wrong or if it's normal. As I wrote, I recogniced this behavior two or three years ago...

Thanks,
Ralph


Re: Tab lock Prop washer

Bill Kinney
 

Tom,

This type of locking washer is standard on European metric propeller shafts.  Any good propeller service shop will know exactly what they are and have them in stock. The only specification needed is the shaft diameter.

Anybody who’s boat uses these should carry at least one spare.  It is true they can be reused, but in my experience metal fatigue caused by bending, and rebending, the tabs can cause the washer to fail. Shortly after that happens your propeller falls off—and you have a very bad day.  

The safe rule is to use a new one every time the propeller is removed.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Ragged Island, Bahamas

2221 - 2240 of 64940