Date   

Re: Downwind Sailing

Craig Briggs
 

Hi Kent,
Totally agree with Judy (about avoiding having the main riding on the aft lowers).

Here's how we play it: we pole out the jib at just a bit deeper than a beam reach, say ~ 110 apparent and keep the main and mizzen full(usually fly the foc d'artimon, too).

As we go deeper to where the main starts to ride on the shrouds, we partially furl it, since it begins to block the jib anyway - it's surprising how effective it remains and stays off the shrouds. Lot's of vang and outhaul tension, although not perfect for trim, keeps the sail off the shrouds longer.

At DDW we usually furl the main completely in a breeze and sometimes overtrim the mizzen to dampen any roll (using it as a horizontal stabilizer, you might say). In light air we'll go wing 'n wing with the main, but keep it overtrimmed and off the shrouds.

I usually keep both poles rigged, so if we going to be out for a couple of hours I'll pop the balloner and totally furl the main and mizzen.

Fair winds, Craig & Katherine, Santorin #68

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "svbebe" <yahoogroups@...> wrote:

Can't say what others do, but we never let the mainsail touch the shroud. .....
You will probably get several different answers on this question.

Judy
S/V BeBe


Re: replacement for Thomson Australe 3 220 V washer

svbebe <yahoogroups@...>
 

I have located a Thompson supplier in Singapore who has several Thompson models in stock...all the same size as the one installed in the Super Maramu.

There are several door-to-door consolidator/ocean freight transfer companies in Singapore.

My initial request-for-quote came back at $1,065USD for the model TX888 which I believe is like the one we have on BeBe, but it is just a washer without the steam-dryer function. Shipping costs would be in addition.

The following are the specs:
Thompson Model: TX888
Name: Top Loading Washing Machine
Description: • Capacity: 6kg
• Variable Spin Speed. 100 - 1200 rpm
• Variable Temperature Control. Cold - 90°C
• Multl Programme
• Programme E
• LCD Display: Spin Speed / Remaining Time / Delayed Start
• Programmes Options: Rinse Hold / Drip Dry / Prewash / Rinse Plus / Sleekare / Eco Intensive / Express 30 mins / Wool (Gentle
Rocking Motion) / Silk
• Progressive Programme Indicators 3 LEDs
• Door Lock
• Net Dimensions: H85 x W45 x D60 cm
• 2200 W / 230 V / 50 Hz Energy Consumption: (Cotton 6kg at 60°C): 1.02 kwh / 48 L / 139 mins
• Class AA

Anyone interested in purchasing a new washer and having it shipped from Singapore, please email me at svbebe"at"gmail.com.

Best,

Bill
s/v BeBe, SM2, #387
Currently Malaysia

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, john martin <symoondog@...> wrote:


Hello All,



does anyone have advice for a replacement for the Thomson "Australe 3" 220 V washer/dryer on my SM (hull #248). I have searched on this site and have found that someone used a Haier (but it is 110V and only a 6 lb load) and someone else a Soba (but it is front loading). I would like to replace it with a 220 V 50 Hz machine that washes only and does a similar sized load to the Thomson (10 lb).



I have replaced the control unit on the Thomson once, it worked wonderfully for several years, and now it appears the control unit is gone again. I'm not enthused about replacing the control unit again on a 12 year old unit, but my wife loves the machine as it spins the clothes extremely well, so that the clothes dry very quickly just being hung up on a line.



Any advice welcomed, thanks



Johh Martin

MOON DOG

SM 248

_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsoft's powerful SPAM protection.
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Re: Climma A/C 220v/50Hz

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Kent:

Here is a unit that can take input voltage from two sources; shore and generator, with
voltage and frequencies that cover those we commonly see (i.e. 50 or 60 Hertz), and
is a 24 volt charger as well as putting out 50 Hertz 230 volt power.

http://www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/Datasheet%20-%20Quattro%203kVA%20and%205kVA%20-%20rev%2007%20-%20EN.pdf

I don't know the price but this would make your boat a true world power compatible
boat.

Gary
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 335

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Kent Robertson" <karkauai@...> wrote:

One more, thanks for indulging me.

When I purchased "Kristy" I was told that I could run the A/C units on 60Hz shore power. I have done so for the last year with no apparant problems. The raw water pump is pretty rusty from a broken hipressure hose from the watermaker, so I went by the Frostline refrigeration store in ST. Maarten and purchased a new one for a spare. The owner is very knowledgeable about Climma, he's THE Climma agent for the area. He says that the number one problem he takes care of is compressors that burn out due to running them on 60 cycle power. He also says that Climma doesn't warranty it's A/C's if they are used with 60Hz power supply.

Since most of the places I've sailed so far use 60 Hz power at the dock, I'd have to run the genset to use the A/C at the dock...That's something I really don't want to do if I don't have to. He says there is a unit (can't remember the name) that will convert 60Hz to 50 Hz, but it's large and costs $12000, apparantly made for the megayachts.

What is your understanding of this issue with the Climma A/C units?

Thanks again,
Kent
"Kristy" SM 243


Re: Downwind Sailing

svbebe <yahoogroups@...>
 

Can't say what others do, but we never let the mainsail touch the shroud. Sails are too expensive to risk damage and it seems that the shroud would wear on the sail. If it is anticipated to be only a half-day run dead downwind, we normally just pole out the jenny and put the mizzen to the opposite side with a preventer, taking care to also keep the mizzen sail off the shroud. We leave the main furled because it just isn't possible to get the main far enough out with the wind directly astern. If winds are very light, we pole out our asymmetrical (not a standard Amel sail). The asymmetrical is not designed for dead downwind, but it works fine with the pole and stays filled better than the heavier genoa because it is such a light material.

For downwind sailing we use just one pole probably 80 to 90% of the time. After you get used to it, rigging the pole is very easy for 2 people.

You will probably get several different answers on this question.

Judy
S/V BeBe
SM2 #387


Re: Climma A/C 220v/50Hz

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Kent:

It was nice to meet you in Portsmouth, Dominica. What did you think of that
ash from Montserrat? We are still cleaning up. I have been running my Climma
ACs on 60 Hertz power for nine years. Granted I am only on the boat for about
4 months out of the year and only run the AC part of that time but so far so good.
I do have one compressor that is sounding a bit odd and it may be going the way
of the world. A motor that is designed to run on 50 Hertz will be running at a
faster speed on 60 Hertz power. Many motors are rated to run on either and it is
a shame that Climma doesn't see fit to use compressor motors that are certified
for either.

There is no device that will convert 50 Hertz power to 60 Hertz power. The only
way I know of doing this is to have an inverter, powered from a DC source (ie your
battery bank) that will produce 60 Hertz power. There are inverters that will
produce 50 or 60 Hertz power but they all start with DC and convert it to AC.
Most of these are configured as charger/inverters so that you don't deplete
your battery bank.

We did have the AC start capacitors fail within about a week of each other, while
running on the genset (220 VAC 50 Hertz) on all three of our Climma ACs a
number of years ago. They were plastic encased capacitors and melted and
smoked. Since replacing them with higher rated capacitors (400 VAC as I
recall) we have had no further problem.

If you really want a power system that can handle virtually any power in the world
you can get a duel frequency, dual voltage charger inverter.

Gary
s/v Liahona
Lying Martinique



and

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Kent Robertson" <karkauai@...> wrote:

One more, thanks for indulging me.

When I purchased "Kristy" I was told that I could run the A/C units on 60Hz shore power. I have done so for the last year with no apparant problems. The raw water pump is pretty rusty from a broken hipressure hose from the watermaker, so I went by the Frostline refrigeration store in ST. Maarten and purchased a new one for a spare. The owner is very knowledgeable about Climma, he's THE Climma agent for the area. He says that the number one problem he takes care of is compressors that burn out due to running them on 60 cycle power. He also says that Climma doesn't warranty it's A/C's if they are used with 60Hz power supply.

Since most of the places I've sailed so far use 60 Hz power at the dock, I'd have to run the genset to use the A/C at the dock...That's something I really don't want to do if I don't have to. He says there is a unit (can't remember the name) that will convert 60Hz to 50 Hz, but it's large and costs $12000, apparantly made for the megayachts.

What is your understanding of this issue with the Climma A/C units?

Thanks again,
Kent
"Kristy" SM 243


Re: [Amel] 8 HP OUTBOARD ENGINE

Horst Pause <horst.puddleduck@...>
 

On the Maramu, the block is attached almost at the end of the mizzen boom, so there's no big problem. I have, however, on occasion put a sling ove the end of the boom if I needed to lift something to clear the side.

In your case, just move it to the boom end.

Horst




________________________________
From: Kent Robertson <karkauai@yahoo.com>
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sun, 28 February, 2010 19:22:51
Subject: Re: [Amel] 8 HP OUTBOARD ENGINE


Ahoy, Maties,
I've read with interest this discussion, and looking at my mizzen boom, the attachment of the block at the boom is several feet forward of the end of the boom which lines up with the outboard attached to the rail. It looks like if I were to lift the motor from the current attachment on the boom, it would slide the motor down the rail before lifting it off. Do you move the eye where the mizzen sheet attaches to the boom down to the end where it will line up, or just use it where it's attached just above the traveler?
Thanks,
Kent
"Kristy" SM243







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Climma A/C 220v/50Hz

karkauai
 

One more, thanks for indulging me.

When I purchased "Kristy" I was told that I could run the A/C units on 60Hz shore power. I have done so for the last year with no apparant problems. The raw water pump is pretty rusty from a broken hipressure hose from the watermaker, so I went by the Frostline refrigeration store in ST. Maarten and purchased a new one for a spare. The owner is very knowledgeable about Climma, he's THE Climma agent for the area. He says that the number one problem he takes care of is compressors that burn out due to running them on 60 cycle power. He also says that Climma doesn't warranty it's A/C's if they are used with 60Hz power supply.

Since most of the places I've sailed so far use 60 Hz power at the dock, I'd have to run the genset to use the A/C at the dock...That's something I really don't want to do if I don't have to. He says there is a unit (can't remember the name) that will convert 60Hz to 50 Hz, but it's large and costs $12000, apparantly made for the megayachts.

What is your understanding of this issue with the Climma A/C units?

Thanks again,
Kent
"Kristy" SM 243


Downwind Sailing

karkauai
 

Hi, again, all,
I've got a ? about what you do on very broad reaches and downwind when you only have a few hours of sailing on that angle. It seems I've done very little downwind work with "Kristy" until now, so am just discovering some things I haven't encountered until now. When I'm on a very broad reach,the mainsail rests on the aft shrouds of the main mast. Same true if I'm running downwind. I'm noticing a discoloration of the main where it rests on the shroud, and don't want to damage my sail. In a 15+ kt wind I can make fair progress with main and mizzen wing on wing, but was wondering if you use one of the downwind poles to hold out the Jenny? Seems like I read somewhere that you shouldn't use one pole only, but can't find it now and can't think of a good reason not to. Using both poles and the double headsail rig seems like a lot of work to sail for just a few hours.

So my questions are:
Do you worry about the main resting on the shroud when going downwind?
What do you do when your destination is directly downwind for 5-6 hrs of sailing? Do you sail on a broad reach and jibe, or pole out the Jenny, or something else?

Sounds pretty elementary, I know...but then I'm still in Elementary School.
Thanks,
Kent
"Kristy" SM243


Re: [Amel] 8 HP OUTBOARD ENGINE

karkauai
 

Ahoy, Maties,
I've read with interest this discussion, and looking at my mizzen boom, the attachment of the block at the boom is several feet forward of the end of the boom which lines up with the outboard attached to the rail. It looks like if I were to lift the motor from the current attachment on the boom, it would slide the motor down the rail before lifting it off. Do you move the eye where the mizzen sheet attaches to the boom down to the end where it will line up, or just use it where it's attached just above the traveler?
Thanks,
Kent
"Kristy" SM243


First pictures from the AMEL 64

jlm@jlmertz.fr
 

[:x] The AMEL 64 is coming soon .... [:x]

http://picasaweb.google.com/photosamel/AMEL64#slideshow/5381224984670540\;
786

JLM
CottonBay


Re: [Amel] Security grill for main hatch

john martin <symoondog@...>
 

Hi Martin



I put a barrel bolt in the forward corner of the sliding hatch and drilled a hole in the bottom of the hatch for the bolt to go into. If the burglar was smart or curious and had a flashlight, he could probably realize this was there and reach in and open it. Most ot these guys are not professional so the sight of the bars should be sufficient to scare them off to another boat that is easier prey. I guess you could somehow put a lock on the barrel bolt unit to really secure it.



Gary has a better idea for securing the hatch via the Amel lock if you want to be ultra safe.



Also, as Gary says the 1/4 inch aluminum is a little too thin. I originally was going to glue a slim piece of teak (1/8 inch)thick around the frame to make the fit snugger, and to bring it up to "Amel quality" but being in the cruising mood I have never gotten around to it and it works OK as it is. I measured the opening by cutting a yardstick to fit the top and another to fit the bottom, then just measured from there.



For extra security I have installed a LED bulb in the overhead light under the hard dodger, and I burn this all night. I'm not a fan of mast head anchor lights so I use a LED light hanging in the rigging and also use the cockpit light. This way your boat looks like a boat and not just a star, plus most burglars dont want to be looking around in a lighted cockpit. I also have a motion detector with a loud siren for really bad places.



Regards,

John

MOON DOG SM#248



To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
From: yachtcaduceus@yahoo.co.uk
Date: Sat, 27 Feb 2010 19:26:40 +0000
Subject: Re: [Amel] Security grill for main hatch





Thank you that was just what I was looking for.

Can you advise how you secure the horizontal sliding hatch when the security grills are in position? I can see some other photoghraphs that might be what you use but cannot ascertain the technioque used.

Regards,

Martin Bevan

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, john martin <symoondog@...> wrote:


Look under the folder of photos on this site called "Moon Dog." The security grills (2 pieces) are made from 1/4 x 1 inch flat aluminum, they have to be made in two parts to clear the dodger. Also note the stainless steel bars on all hatches. I have been using these bars on my boats for over 35 years, even on my beloved Chesapeake Bay in the US. It always amazes me how a person would not think of going to sleep at night in his hometown without locking all doors and windows, but will come to a strange, poor, third world country and go to sleep with the front door wide open. John "Moon Dog" SM248



To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
From: yachtcaduceus@...
Date: Fri, 26 Feb 2010 13:50:45 +0000
Subject: [Amel] Security grill for main hatch





I am looking for advice from any member who has constructed a security grill for the main hatch.

The intention is to be able to leave the main companionway open to allow night time ventilation at anchor but secure it against unwanted "guests".

Regards,

Martin Bevan
Caduceus Amel 54 #56





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Re: [Amel] Re: replacement for Thomson Australe 3 220 V washer

john martin <symoondog@...>
 

Bill, We are in Trinidad, all 120 volts. Will check the French islands when we get there. John



To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
From: yahoogroups@svbebe.com
Date: Sun, 28 Feb 2010 03:49:10 +0000
Subject: [Amel] Re: replacement for Thomson Australe 3 220 V washer





John,

Where are you? We have seen literally dozens of suitable 240v 50htz potential replacements between Australia and SE Asia.

Best,

Bill
s/v BeBe, SM2, #387
Currently Malaysia

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, john martin <symoondog@...> wrote:


Hello All,



does anyone have advice for a replacement for the Thomson "Australe 3" 220 V washer/dryer on my SM (hull #248). I have searched on this site and have found that someone used a Haier (but it is 110V and only a 6 lb load) and someone else a Soba (but it is front loading). I would like to replace it with a 220 V 50 Hz machine that washes only and does a similar sized load to the Thomson (10 lb).



I have replaced the control unit on the Thomson once, it worked wonderfully for several years, and now it appears the control unit is gone again. I'm not enthused about replacing the control unit again on a 12 year old unit, but my wife loves the machine as it spins the clothes extremely well, so that the clothes dry very quickly just being hung up on a line.



Any advice welcomed, thanks



Johh Martin

MOON DOG

SM 248

__________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsoft's powerful SPAM protection.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/201469226/direct/01/

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Re: replacement for Thomson Australe 3 220 V washer

svbebe <yahoogroups@...>
 

John,

Where are you? We have seen literally dozens of suitable 240v 50htz potential replacements between Australia and SE Asia.

Best,

Bill
s/v BeBe, SM2, #387
Currently Malaysia

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, john martin <symoondog@...> wrote:


Hello All,



does anyone have advice for a replacement for the Thomson "Australe 3" 220 V washer/dryer on my SM (hull #248). I have searched on this site and have found that someone used a Haier (but it is 110V and only a 6 lb load) and someone else a Soba (but it is front loading). I would like to replace it with a 220 V 50 Hz machine that washes only and does a similar sized load to the Thomson (10 lb).



I have replaced the control unit on the Thomson once, it worked wonderfully for several years, and now it appears the control unit is gone again. I'm not enthused about replacing the control unit again on a 12 year old unit, but my wife loves the machine as it spins the clothes extremely well, so that the clothes dry very quickly just being hung up on a line.



Any advice welcomed, thanks



Johh Martin

MOON DOG

SM 248

_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsoft's powerful SPAM protection.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/201469226/direct/01/



replacement for Thomson Australe 3 220 V washer

john martin <symoondog@...>
 

Hello All,



does anyone have advice for a replacement for the Thomson "Australe 3" 220 V washer/dryer on my SM (hull #248). I have searched on this site and have found that someone used a Haier (but it is 110V and only a 6 lb load) and someone else a Soba (but it is front loading). I would like to replace it with a 220 V 50 Hz machine that washes only and does a similar sized load to the Thomson (10 lb).



I have replaced the control unit on the Thomson once, it worked wonderfully for several years, and now it appears the control unit is gone again. I'm not enthused about replacing the control unit again on a 12 year old unit, but my wife loves the machine as it spins the clothes extremely well, so that the clothes dry very quickly just being hung up on a line.



Any advice welcomed, thanks



Johh Martin

MOON DOG

SM 248

_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsofts powerful SPAM protection.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/201469226/direct/01/

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Security grill for main hatch

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Martin:

I am in the process of building the security bars as depicted by Moon Dog. On
my Super Maramu the groove into which the companionway hatch slides up
and down measures 0.4375 inches wide (fore and aft), by 0.59 inches deep
(depth of groove the bars can slide in) and each side is 30.5 inches tall
(top of frame to the cross bar on the sliding hatch in the fully down
position). So I made my bars out of 3/8 inch by 1.5-inch aluminum
bar stock.

Aluminum is quite expensive but stainless would have been too heavy and
probably more expensive.

My error was in not realizing that the opening is NOT SQUARE. In other words
the security frames need to be not rectangular but trapezoidal in shape. That
is, the frames need to be "racked" a bit the vertical sides parallel and the
top and bottom sides parallel but the sides not at 90 degrees to the bottom
and top.

I would recommend making a template out of cardboard or similar material
to get the exact angle that the hatch board makes with the sides (grooved)
portion of the companionway frame. I welded up the assembly to be exactly
square but had to grind off about 1/4th inch of the bottom of each frame
along a bevel to match the companionway opening so that they would fit
properly.

In summary my frames measure 24.75 inches wide, and overall top to
Bottom they are 30.5 inches tall (the overall height of both pieces added
together).

I plan on welding on a bracket with a deadbolt sliding type lock that will
fit the hole in the hatch cover that the Amel lock slides into.

Best regards, Gary Silver,
s/v Liahona
Amel SM #335

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Martin" <yachtcaduceus@...> wrote:

I am looking for advice from any member who has constructed a security grill for the main hatch.

The intention is to be able to leave the main companionway open to allow night time ventilation at anchor but secure it against unwanted "guests".


Regards,

Martin Bevan
Caduceus Amel 54 #56


Re: [Amel] Security grill for main hatch

Martin <yachtcaduceus@...>
 

Thank you that was just what I was looking for.

Can you advise how you secure the horizontal sliding hatch when the security grills are in position? I can see some other photoghraphs that might be what you use but cannot ascertain the technioque used.

Regards,

Martin Bevan

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, john martin <symoondog@...> wrote:


Look under the folder of photos on this site called "Moon Dog." The security grills (2 pieces) are made from 1/4 x 1 inch flat aluminum, they have to be made in two parts to clear the dodger. Also note the stainless steel bars on all hatches. I have been using these bars on my boats for over 35 years, even on my beloved Chesapeake Bay in the US. It always amazes me how a person would not think of going to sleep at night in his hometown without locking all doors and windows, but will come to a strange, poor, third world country and go to sleep with the front door wide open. John "Moon Dog" SM248



To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
From: yachtcaduceus@...
Date: Fri, 26 Feb 2010 13:50:45 +0000
Subject: [Amel] Security grill for main hatch





I am looking for advice from any member who has constructed a security grill for the main hatch.

The intention is to be able to leave the main companionway open to allow night time ventilation at anchor but secure it against unwanted "guests".

Regards,

Martin Bevan
Caduceus Amel 54 #56





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Hotmail: Powerful Free email with security by Microsoft.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/201469230/direct/01/



Re: Chain counter

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Hello all:

My chain counter ceased to work the day before we arrived in Guadeloupe. I sought
out Laurent but was referred to Pochon where they were very helpful. Mine has the
Black display. They asked if my LED was on in the sensor and I wasn't even aware
of this LED. As you know you can look into the side of the sensor housing on the
windlass and if the sensor is working there should be an orange LED lighted.

Mine was not so I purchased a new sensor from Pochon ($US 271.00 with the Euro
to US$ at 0.65 Euro per 1 US$). The two bolts that hold the aft housing on the
windlass are easily removed and once having undone the wires that feed into the
housing I was able to use a sharp screwdriver to work the sensor out of it's
housing. It is only held in place with a 1 inch wide band of RTV (silicone seal)
around the mid-portion of the sensor. The new sensor was installed with the
same rather diminutive amount of RTV and aligned so that the LED could be seen
in the hole in the side of the mounting housing and with the forward face flush
with the housing cutout. Voila, the chain counter works again.

I understand from Pochon that this is a 12 volt device and remains on at all times
with virtually no current draw. If the display is bad the new gray one is about
750 Euros. Pray your display doesn't go out.

I will try and post some photo's later.

Best regards,

Gary Silver
Amel SM 2000 Hull # 335

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Ian & Judy Jenkins <ianjudyjenkins@...> wrote:


Dear Anne and John,
On 7th May last you emailed details of the website where a replacement chain counter sensor could be bought ( www.ifm.info)
Can I assume that you bought one and fitted it? If so, can you tell me if you have the black display unit or the later , grey, unit? And do you happen to know if the sensor works with both?
Pochon in Guadeloupe reckoned he could see the little LED light working on my existing sensor and that therefore it must be the display unit that was bust ( a black one) but he looked in sunlight and I have subsequently looked after dark and there is no light on the sensor, so I am hoping for a quick fix.
Cheers, Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Deshaies
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Re: [Amel] Security grill for main hatch

Martin <yachtcaduceus@...>
 

Thank you that was just what I was looking for.

Can you advise how you secure the horizontal sliding hatch when the security grills are in position? I can see some other photoghraphs that might be what you use but cannot ascertain the technioque used.

Regards,

Martin Bevan

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, john martin <symoondog@...> wrote:


Look under the folder of photos on this site called "Moon Dog." The security grills (2 pieces) are made from 1/4 x 1 inch flat aluminum, they have to be made in two parts to clear the dodger. Also note the stainless steel bars on all hatches. I have been using these bars on my boats for over 35 years, even on my beloved Chesapeake Bay in the US. It always amazes me how a person would not think of going to sleep at night in his hometown without locking all doors and windows, but will come to a strange, poor, third world country and go to sleep with the front door wide open. John "Moon Dog" SM248



To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
From: yachtcaduceus@...
Date: Fri, 26 Feb 2010 13:50:45 +0000
Subject: [Amel] Security grill for main hatch





I am looking for advice from any member who has constructed a security grill for the main hatch.

The intention is to be able to leave the main companionway open to allow night time ventilation at anchor but secure it against unwanted "guests".

Regards,

Martin Bevan
Caduceus Amel 54 #56





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Hotmail: Powerful Free email with security by Microsoft.
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Re: [Amel] Security grill for main hatch

john martin <symoondog@...>
 

Look under the folder of photos on this site called "Moon Dog." The security grills (2 pieces) are made from 1/4 x 1 inch flat aluminum, they have to be made in two parts to clear the dodger. Also note the stainless steel bars on all hatches. I have been using these bars on my boats for over 35 years, even on my beloved Chesapeake Bay in the US. It always amazes me how a person would not think of going to sleep at night in his hometown without locking all doors and windows, but will come to a strange, poor, third world country and go to sleep with the front door wide open. John "Moon Dog" SM248



To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
From: yachtcaduceus@yahoo.co.uk
Date: Fri, 26 Feb 2010 13:50:45 +0000
Subject: [Amel] Security grill for main hatch





I am looking for advice from any member who has constructed a security grill for the main hatch.

The intention is to be able to leave the main companionway open to allow night time ventilation at anchor but secure it against unwanted "guests".

Regards,

Martin Bevan
Caduceus Amel 54 #56





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Re: [Amel] Eno 4 burner Stove

svbebe <yahoogroups@...>
 

Eric, not much detail...sorry.

Bill
s/v BeBe, SM2, #387
currently Malaysia

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, kimberlite <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Bill,

I saw that link but I can not see the electrical portion of this stove on
the drawing.

Am I missing something?

Thanks for the tip on corrosion x

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite