Date   

Re: Fresh Water Tank cleaning with isopropyl alcohol

James Alton
 

Gregory, 

   Both of course are poisonous.  Chlorine has been used to disenfect water systems for a long time so safe practices are pretty well documented. I am not sure that I have ever heard of alcohol being used to disenfect a water system but if one was to use alcohol, maybe use consumable ethanol.  I would however worry about whether alcohol might damage polyester resins. 

James Alton
SV Sueno


On Wed, 11 May 2022 at 15:08, Gregory Dmitriev
<41greg.marine@...> wrote:
is isopropyl alcohol more poisonous than chlorine?????


Re: Fresh Water Tank cleaning with isopropyl alcohol

Tony Elliott
 

When it comes to potable water, most of the industries world wide use Sodium Chlorite. It is a registered antimicrobial pesticide (EPA Register Number 5382-42). It's uses are potable (drinking) water, industrial cooling water, mollusk control, food plant process water, wastewater etc. The 80% pure flakes (which you can purchase on Amazon) require dilution with distilled water into a solution of 22.4% (which you can also purchase on Amazon) and then added to water that is in the tank, left for 24 to 48 hours and then flushed. If there is other dirt in the tank, that obviously will need removing but this is the safest and most inert way of sterilizing a potable water tank. 

Tony
SM#443 Grand Cru


Re: Fresh Water Tank cleaning with isopropyl alcohol

 

image.png


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   


On Wed, May 11, 2022 at 7:08 AM Gregory Dmitriev <41greg.marine@...> wrote:
is isopropyl alcohol more poisonous than chlorine?????


Re: Fresh Water Tank cleaning with isopropyl alcohol

Greg A54 172
 

is isopropyl alcohol more poisonous than chlorine?????


Re: Fresh Water Tank cleaning with isopropyl alcohol

Alan Leslie
 

Chlorine (bleach) is simple and easy....fill up the water tank, put some(?) bleach in, leave it for 12+ hours , pump it out, use a hose to spray inside the tank (use the inspection ports in front of the frig and forwards), fill it up, rinse a few times...pump out .. we use a Rule bilge pump lowered into the FW tank....use a swimming pool test strip until chorine is not detected...simple....if there was residual crap in the bottom I would suck it out with the wet/dry vac...I've never had to do that. 
I would be very wary of using isopropyl alcohol.......why would you want to use it ?
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: Fresh Water Tank cleaning with isopropyl alcohol

James Alton
 

Greg, 

  Isopropyl is poisonous.  Perhaps all residue could be removed but I think chlorine products would be safer to use.  We opened all access hatches and hand scrubbed with soft scrub followed with lots of rinsing.  There was a lot of mud in the bottom of our tank aft along with a few snails.  Interestingly enough the water didn't smell or taste bad before the cleaning.  We use the Seagull to final. Filter our drinking water. 

James Alton
SV Sueno
Maramu #220


On Wed, 11 May 2022 at 12:56, Gregory Dmitriev
<41greg.marine@...> wrote:
Hi guys,
did anybody tried to use isopropyl alcohol to clean fresh water tank?
Considerations?

Thx!


Fresh Water Tank cleaning with isopropyl alcohol

Greg A54 172
 

Hi guys,
did anybody tried to use isopropyl alcohol to clean fresh water tank?
Considerations?

Thx!


ACMO

 

All interested,

As you know over the years I have been a very strong supporter of ACMO, the standing rigging supplier to Amel. This support created a relationship where ACMO issued discounts of 5 - 10% to the Amel owners that I referred to ACMO. There was and is no payment to me for referrals.

I am saddened to write the following: There are some changes happening now. For some unknown reason, after many years Amel stopped doing business with ACMO. I was told by someone at ACMO that it was the price, but this is not verified. Many of us developed a good relationship with Laetitia Boudon, but she has left ACMO. I have attempted to communicate with the owner of ACMO, but have not been successful at this time. I placed the following notice on my website's page for ACMO and unless something is resolved, the notice will be in the next printing of my book.

Notice: ACMO is no longer the supplier to Amel and my contact at ACMO, Laetitia Boudon, has left ACMO. I am trying to contact the owner of ACMO, Philippe Guzelli, but he has not responded. I have contacted Duquesnoy Audrey <audrey@...> and I am waiting on a reply. Until I am able to speak to Mr. Guzelli I must temporarily withdraw my recommendation.

I truly want to write you later, telling you that this has been resolved. Hopefully very soon. I believe that as soon as I can communicate with Philippe Guzelli it will be resolved. I understand from people who know ACMO and its owner that they are wonderful and honorable people.

Bill

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   


Re: drop LiFePo4 batteries vs LiFePo4 cells in a bundled pack #solution

Dean Gillies
 

Hi Paul,
Bill's solution works nicely.

Another option is to install a small (10-20A)  Dc-Dc converter/charger between the 24V house bank and the 12V start battery and use this as a means to keep your start battery topped up. 

I suspect that many (most?) discharged 12V batteries happen due to failure of the 12V alternator. A DC DC converter gives you the ability to dodge that bullet. Victron have some good products for that. 

You can also carry a 'jump starter pack' for immediate emergency use (as long as you keep it charged). Small, cheap and effective. Example:

Dean
SV STELLA
A54-154

X

--
Dean Gillies
SV Stella *****,  Amel 54-154


Re: drop LiFePo4 batteries vs LiFePo4 cells in a bundled pack #solution

Bill Kinney
 

I had someone contact me with that exact problem.  They have 24V LiFoPO batteries, and managed to drain their 12V starter battery to the point it wouldn't actually start the engine or the genset.  And they were in a remote place, and had guests arriving, and... you all know how it goes!

Jumping from the 12V converter for the SSB to the starter battery for a few hours managed to put enough power back into the starter battery it was able to crank the engines, and then get back into its normal cycle. Probably not a "recommended" practice, but in an emergency it worked.  Worth adding to the problem solving tool box.

A better long term solution would probably be to add a fixed battery-to-battery charger that can take the 24V from the main bank and keep the engine start battery topped up.  This might be especially important on boats with a lot of alternative energy inputs who can go long periods without firing the genset.  Also, a good idea to add instrumentation that allows more careful monitoring of the health of the starter battery. Regular load testing is definitely something to consider.  NOT a good idea to just ignore it until it doesn't work anymore. It might not work in a place where you really, really need it...

The loss of the quick, simple and easy jump start is a frequently missed cost of a complete Li conversion.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Simpson Bay Lagoon, Sint Maarten.


Re: Bill in St Maarten

Eric Freedman
 

HI Bill.

Miles Bidwell is on Lady Bug in Martinique.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io On Behalf Of Bill Kinney
Sent: Monday, May 09, 2022 10:30 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Bill in St Maarten

 

Eric,

Right now we are anchored outside the bridge in Simpson Bay.  We have seen Kimberlite sitting pretty at her dock.  If things go to plan, we hope to be in Martinique by Tuesday.  Sorry to miss you!

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Simpson Bay, Sint Maarten


Re: Bow paint worn out.

Dan Carlson
 

Thanks John,  

When I'm ready to redo the whole bottom, then Copper coat will definitely be a consideration, but right now I'm just looking for a more pragmatic approach to protect less than a meter of wear on the point of the bow until then. 

Thanks and regards, Daniel and Lori Carlson on sv BeBe, SM #387




On Tue, May 10, 2022, 5:30 PM JOHN HAYES <johnhayes862@...> wrote:
Hi Dan

Think about moving to copper coat which is a water based epoxy. I put it on to the top of the orange stripe. Pulled out after 16 months mainly to check anodes. Instead of 3 to 4 days sanding and painting for anti fouling it took an hour and a quarter on the hard to water blast lite sand with 330 grit paper and back to the brine. Brilliant!!


On 11/05/2022, at 8:33 AM, Dan Carlson <carlsdan61@...> wrote:


We've covered a few more miles than usual since covid and we've been wearing away the bottom paint at the point of the bow each season. We have added three coats of micron 66 on the bow each summer when we've hauled out. 

This year it looks like we've worn the Gel-Coat off the very point of the bow as well. 

But we're hauling out later this month and thinking about what to do? 

I have some Interlux 2000e that I could layer on the point to give it some added layers of protection. I thought the process would be to strip the bottom paint back 3 - 4 inch's on each side of the bow, light sand it clean and then start building up layers of epoxy primer, feathering and sanding it out fair on each side. And then I'll build the bottom paint up again when we return in the fall.

Anyone with experience with this? Comments or other ideas? 

Thanks and regards, Daniel and Lori Carlson on sv BeBe, SM #387, 
Currently at Spanish Wells and sailing north on Thursday


Re: Bow paint worn out.

JOHN HAYES
 

Hi Dan

Think about moving to copper coat which is a water based epoxy. I put it on to the top of the orange stripe. Pulled out after 16 months mainly to check anodes. Instead of 3 to 4 days sanding and painting for anti fouling it took an hour and a quarter on the hard to water blast lite sand with 330 grit paper and back to the brine. Brilliant!!


On 11/05/2022, at 8:33 AM, Dan Carlson <carlsdan61@...> wrote:


We've covered a few more miles than usual since covid and we've been wearing away the bottom paint at the point of the bow each season. We have added three coats of micron 66 on the bow each summer when we've hauled out. 

This year it looks like we've worn the Gel-Coat off the very point of the bow as well. 

But we're hauling out later this month and thinking about what to do? 

I have some Interlux 2000e that I could layer on the point to give it some added layers of protection. I thought the process would be to strip the bottom paint back 3 - 4 inch's on each side of the bow, light sand it clean and then start building up layers of epoxy primer, feathering and sanding it out fair on each side. And then I'll build the bottom paint up again when we return in the fall.

Anyone with experience with this? Comments or other ideas? 

Thanks and regards, Daniel and Lori Carlson on sv BeBe, SM #387, 
Currently at Spanish Wells and sailing north on Thursday
P1030132.JPG1652214587039_1652214585442_P1030133.JPG


Bow paint worn out.

Dan Carlson
 

We've covered a few more miles than usual since covid and we've been wearing away the bottom paint at the point of the bow each season. We have added three coats of micron 66 on the bow each summer when we've hauled out. 

This year it looks like we've worn the Gel-Coat off the very point of the bow as well. 

But we're hauling out later this month and thinking about what to do? 

I have some Interlux 2000e that I could layer on the point to give it some added layers of protection. I thought the process would be to strip the bottom paint back 3 - 4 inch's on each side of the bow, light sand it clean and then start building up layers of epoxy primer, feathering and sanding it out fair on each side. And then I'll build the bottom paint up again when we return in the fall.

Anyone with experience with this? Comments or other ideas? 

Thanks and regards, Daniel and Lori Carlson on sv BeBe, SM #387, 
Currently at Spanish Wells and sailing north on Thursday


Re: drop LiFePo4 batteries vs LiFePo4 cells in a bundled pack #solution

 

Paul,

It is not only the starter but every component connected to the ignition circuit on the main engine and the generator. A simple solution for backup would be a Car Charger with a Starting Cycle powered by an inverter.

Bill


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   


On Tue, May 10, 2022 at 12:34 PM Paul Harries via groups.io <Pharries=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Due to potential for mismatched cells connected in series I have considered 24v Li batteries to be the best option.
If 24v batteries are chosen what do you do about starter motor battery  backup?
Are there 24v starter motors available?
Are there inverters that can handle the huge current draw?
--
Paul Harries
Prospective Amel Buyer


Re: drop LiFePo4 batteries vs LiFePo4 cells in a bundled pack #solution

Paul Harries
 

Due to potential for mismatched cells connected in series I have considered 24v Li batteries to be the best option.
If 24v batteries are chosen what do you do about starter motor battery  backup?
Are there 24v starter motors available?
Are there inverters that can handle the huge current draw?
--
Paul Harries
Prospective Amel Buyer


AMEL 54 cockpit and sun deck cushions for sale

Teun BAAS
 

I have for sale all AMEL 54 cockpit cushions as well as the aft deck sun lounge cushions.

All located at or near HOPE ISLAND MARINA, QLD AUSTRALIA.

Brgds Teun


Re: Dessalator tasting tap

Slavko Despotovic
 

Hi,

I had the same problem. Went to local hardware store and got this part. Cost 5 euro.
--
Slavko
SM 2000
#279 Bonne Anse in Croatia


Maramu sails for sale

Sarah & Trevor McIlwaine
 

Hi everyone,

Q Sails, made 2019 and very lightly used, I have videos I can share for the condition.  These were taken a week ago at our local sail loft.
 
1 x fully battened sail (no battens supplied), 3 reef points
Luff 12.7m, Foot 4.05m £1,000
 
1 x fully battened sail (no battens supplied), 2 reef points
Luff 9.0m
Foot 2.68m £800
 
These were bought as part of our boat, surplus to requirements.  Originally made for a ketch (so main & mizzen).  They have been stored in sail bags in a temperature/humidity controlled storage unit for the last 12 months.

We are in the UK and ideally would sell these before leaving here, though we will be sailing into Europe if a European Amel owner wanted these.

after  almost a year of renovating and refitting we’re excited to get back out on the water again.

kind regards,

Sarah & Trev, Elice, Maramu 162


Re: Securing a B&G 213 MHU

Jérémy
 

My mistake : it's not "LCJ CV3F" but "LCJ CV7-STBG".

Jérémy
SM#121
Le 28/04/2022 à 23:18, Jérémy via groups.io a écrit :

During the survey of my boat at the time of purchase, when Olivier tested the anemometer at the top of the mast, it fell on the deck.
Seeing the cost of the B&G 213, I preferred to find another solution, but which will remain compatible with the Hydra unit because I really like the look of the analog displays :)
I've found an ultrasonic sensor, compatible with the B&G system. It's the CV3F from LCJ, with B&G Option (named STBG for SeaTalk + B&G option).

The CV3F with the STBG option output both NMEA signal and the same B&G 213 analog signal (for the Hydra unit), and everything works perfectly.

https://lcjcapteurs.com/en/girouette-anemometres-capteur-vent/cv3f-ultrasonic-wind-sensor/


Jérémy
SM#121
Le 27/04/2022 à 07:40, Mark Erdos a écrit :

A few months ago, Loca Lola  wrote on here about a B&G replacement that had no bearings and was 0183 2000 comparable. IMO - B&G has a long way to go to catch up on this technology. When I run out of B&G's stupid expensive spare parts, this or something similar will be my choice.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 


--
SM #121 Nausicaä
Nantes, France

--
SM #121 Nausicaä
Nantes, France

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