Date   

Re: Fresh Water Pump stopped working

Alex Lomakin
 

Dear all,

A few days ago I dismantled my original SM fresh water pump to clean off lots of rust on a body of electric motor. Did that, gave it a lick of paint, installed it back and it is no longer working: there is no pressure in the system and no water from the taps.
The electric motor spins, the inside of the pump is clean. I also did my best to make sure it was not air-locked, but to no avail.
Any ideas what it might be, please?


Thank you very much,

Alex
SM 416


Re: [AmelYach,tOwners] Observation on using 12v Lifepo4 batteries in serial/parallel (probably applicable to lead, too)

Stefan Jeukendrup
 

Interesting and unexpected observations gentlemen,

This could simply be a little non liniarity or a  bit of offset in the Victron voltage measurement circuits:
you are only talking about 0.28V max. (0.24V is 1% of 24V)

Your good quality multimeter has probably a similar accuracy. Use that to check the voltages as a comparison for more consistent results.

The most important thing is that the individual cell voltage measurement in the internal BMS is very accurate as that switches off the passive/active balancing.

Hoping this is helpfull,


Stefan Jeukendrup
Sv Malaka Queen
SM2k #348 @ Newry, Northern Ireland



Op 4 jun. 2022 09:57 schreef Dean Gillies <stella@...>:

Hi Scott,
Well there you go. I don't understand the mechanism whereby the bottom battery is consistently lower voltage.
Sounds like an interesting conversation with Victron.
Keep us posted on what they say.

Out of interest I just checked my old notes from AGM batteries when I was looking at balancers a few years ago. I had 6 strings, and 4 of them had the TOP battery at higher voltage and 2 had the bottom battery at higher voltage. As I type, my Lead batteries are showing the TOP battery as being higher - see pic.

--
Dean Gillies
SV Stella *****,  Amel 54-154



Re: Observation on using 12v Lifepo4 batteries in serial/parallel (probably applicable to lead, too)

Dean Gillies
 

.. and its been this way for some time ...
--
Dean Gillies
SV Stella *****,  Amel 54-154


Re: Observation on using 12v Lifepo4 batteries in serial/parallel (probably applicable to lead, too)

Dean Gillies
 

Hi Scott,
Well there you go. I don't understand the mechanism whereby the bottom battery is consistently lower voltage.
Sounds like an interesting conversation with Victron.
Keep us posted on what they say.

Out of interest I just checked my old notes from AGM batteries when I was looking at balancers a few years ago. I had 6 strings, and 4 of them had the TOP battery at higher voltage and 2 had the bottom battery at higher voltage. As I type, my Lead batteries are showing the TOP battery as being higher - see pic.

--
Dean Gillies
SV Stella *****,  Amel 54-154


Re: Chain Counter Sensor Connector A54

Dean Gillies
 

Thanks Vladan, I have sent an email to the Lefkada store.

Roque,
Its not so easy to get my hands on a magnet while cruising in Greece, so I'll cough up for the kit!

The sensor works with a big magnet and I cleaned up both gypsies (grease) and it still works with both gypsies. There is a magnet in both gypsies.

The problem I observe is that it sometimes counts when the gypsy is not turning and the diagnostic test says "unstable sensor output".  My suspicion is still a bad electrical connection (probably ground connection) either at the sensor or at the connector. I think the magnets are ok.

I Investigated a bit further this morning, and found that there must be a connector or joint in the wiring.
The cable coming from the sensor is 3.75mm diameter (see pic), it then runs into a horizontal conduit running to starboard on the roof of the locker. When it exits from that conduit on the starboard side (see other pic), the diameter has changed to 4.25mm.  I suspected that it was different just by eye, and checked it with a gauge.  There must be a joint or connector in that conduit.

So the fault remains the same .. either there is a bad joint inside that conduit or where the wire enters the sensor. 

I will fit a new sensor (glad to hear it pushed out easily!) and I will pull the cable through that first conduit and make the new joint there, discarding the old joint too. I would prefer to make the new joint inside the electrical box on the stbd side, but the cable entry is sealed up so I don't want to disturb it. I'm not sure why Pochon didn't put the joint in there in the first place, maybe the sensor cable is too short.  

On a positive note, after my tugging and fiddling with the sensor cable this morning, the random counts have now stopped. I can spin the gypsy and it counts cleanly, and there is no sign of the random counts.  Definitely a suspect connection! I'm sure the problem will return with morse code-like beeps coming from the cockpit in the wee small hours.

Best regards to all

--
Dean Gillies
SV Stella *****,  Amel 54-154


Running poles

Nick Newington
 


I re placed the pealing strip that protects the pole from the bulwork with some cow hide. It is glued down with two part contact adhesive. We shall see how long it lasts. It may curl off on the sun…if so then maybe a piece of treadmaster would be better.

I stitched on some at the heel of the pole to protect the deck a few years ago and it is fine. See photos




But the stainless fittings have corroded the aluminium.





I think that I will remove the end cap and the fittings which are bolted and epoxy prime, repaint and insert some kind of spacer between the aluminium and the stainless. I was thinking to fibre glass and epoxy onto the primer and paint over before redrilling and using Monel rivets…to fix the stainless fittings. There is a backing plate that takes the load, the rivets are just to hold it all in place.
If anyone has a better idea please let me know….
Nick
S/Y Amelia, just hanging out and doing those smaller jobs….
Fethiye bay Turkey
AML54-019


Re: Observation on using 12v Lifepo4 batteries in serial/parallel (probably applicable to lead, too)

Scott SV Tengah
 

Dean,

Well it seems there's theory and then there's practice. Or something else is going on.

First measurement after swapping the wiring of each respective serial pair such that the prior "bottom" battery that was previously connected to "negative" battery switch was now made into a "top" battery that is now connected to "positive". And of course vice versa.

For ALL three separate pairs, the new "top" battery exhibits higher voltage than the "bottom" battery at the end of charging. The difference is anywhere from 0.03v to 0.28v. So it was not just a coincidence. 

I may need to have more conversations with Victron about the balancer. If I run the genset in the morning to take my batteries to 100%, the energy balance will remain positive for most of the day, allowing them to work. This should be more than the 4-5 hours that your batteries need to balance out.

Thoughts?



 On Thu, Jun 2, 2022 at 10:17 AM, Dean Gillies wrote:

Looking forward to your next measurement cycle :-)
Cheers

--
Dean Gillies
SV Stella *****,  Amel 54-154

 
--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Re: SM Genoa Furler question

Ian Park
 

Fortunately my masts have yet to go back up. I have a new pair which I will replace this time!!
I can measure the length but the diameters would be different on the SN. My forestay is 10mm and I don’t know if the inside of the furling drum is the same size on the SM.

Ian
Ocean Hobo


Re: Observation on using 12v Lifepo4 batteries in serial/parallel (probably applicable to lead, too)

Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy)
 

I might be stating the obvious here but unless battery midpoints are interconnected, you will need one balancer per battery pair. They start doing their job when voltage is above 27.3V. For their price, I think they are worth it for any 24V system using 12V battery pairs.

Cheers,
Mike

On Sat, Jun 4, 2022, 10:41 AM Jose Venegas via groups.io <josegvenegas=icloud.com@groups.io> wrote:
Scott,
I agree with Dean.  Independent of the band, it makes sense that controlling the total voltage of a battery set in series does not ensure that the voltage of both batteries is sufficient to trigger balancing in both.  The victron balancer does the trick. I spoke about it to a technician of Battle borne and he agreed with its use.  I used to have differences greater than 2% between the  two battery voltages of one set during the final part of charging to 100%.  Since I installed the balancer the differences have been around 0.1 and 0.2%.   I have 4 sets of two 12V 100 ah lithium batteries in series with one balancer.

Jose Venegas
Ipanema SM2K 278
Cartagena





Re: Observation on using 12v Lifepo4 batteries in serial/parallel (probably applicable to lead, too)

Jose Venegas
 

Scott,
I agree with Dean. Independent of the band, it makes sense that controlling the total voltage of a battery set in series does not ensure that the voltage of both batteries is sufficient to trigger balancing in both. The victron balancer does the trick. I spoke about it to a technician of Battle borne and he agreed with its use. I used to have differences greater than 2% between the two battery voltages of one set during the final part of charging to 100%. Since I installed the balancer the differences have been around 0.1 and 0.2%. I have 4 sets of two 12V 100 ah lithium batteries in series with one balancer.

Jose Venegas
Ipanema SM2K 278
Cartagena


Re: Tachometer

Eric Freedman
 

Your hull number is very close to mine. There is a sender on the outboard side of the engine about one third of the way down on the bell housing.

It is almost directly above the flywheel ; it has a big diameter and 2 wires with push on terminals. I would start by cleaning the studs of the sender and the solderless connectors and then use Corrosion-x. 

 

If you do not have that sender there should be a wire hanging off the side of the 12v alternator.

That is the tachometer lead if you do not have the sender above the flywheel there should be a wire attached to it.

If the alternator is the source of the RPM’s go to an auto alternator shop. If they must replace the entire unit , make sure it is an isolated ground model.

 

However, my first guess is the tachometer itself. I recall having that problem on a 4jh2e Yanmar years ago.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io On Behalf Of Steve Bell
Sent: Friday, June 03, 2022 12:20 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Tachometer

 

Hi All,
         The rev counter for my Yanmar 4jh3-hte on my gauge is fluctuating the higher the revs the less fluctuation.
I don't believe the tachometer is working correctly .
Where is the tachometer sensor on the engine? or where does the rev counter get its input from and how can I check this.?

e.g the rev counter will show 1200 rpm and then jump to 1400rpm with no increase in engine revs or bounce between 1500 rpm and 1600rpm 

Regards

Steve
s/v Dusk # 378


Re: How to change the veneer on the companionway without removing the dodger

Eric Freedman
 

Hi,

Here is how I did it.

It is easy. It is important clamp guide rails to the door, so the router stays level while removing the veneer.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io On Behalf Of Alex Lomakin via groups.io
Sent: Wednesday, May 25, 2022 6:51 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] How to change the veneer on the companionway without removing the dodger

 

Dear all,
Following your advice, I have unscrewed the stopper, lifted the washboard to the highest point, stripped off the left-overs of the delaminated veneer and found the underlying plywood in OK-ish, but not exactly perfect condition. So the jury is out deciding what to do next: try to save this board or make a brand new one…
Once the job is done one way or another, I would let you know.
Thank you very much to all of you for your help.
Sincerely,
Alex


Re: Chain Counter Sensor Connector A54

Roque
 

Dean

"I will clean and check out the magnet": It is the same work as just replacing it, so I would put a new one.  I used neodymium magnet, less prone to oxidation, or so I was told. It is a regular industrial magnet widely available. If you can't find 10 x 8mm you can use 2 pieces 10 x 4. Just in case, measure the diameter of the hole before buying.
By the way, you can use any magnet you have aboard to test the reed sensor manually.

"...drill out the old one or maybe knock it out with a 10mm dowel and mallet?": Mine easily got out just pushing and pulling. It was fixed with silicon.

"...swap the gypsy from the secondary windlass": check first if there is a hole already opened in the secondary one. 

Good luck

Roque

Em sex., 3 de jun. de 2022 às 16:56, Vladan SV PAME <vladan.bojic@...> escreveu:

Dean,

In Greece you can find Lewmar parts here:  https://nautilus.gr/en

They have many shops in Greece and they can also deliver to you.

Best Regards,
Vladan


From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Dean Gillies <stella@...>
Sent: Friday, June 3, 2022 10:23:59 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Chain Counter Sensor Connector A54
 
This forum is amazing!  So much knowledge and experience..

So, I will clean and check out the magnet and swap the gypsy from the secondary windlass too to see if that makes a difference. Also, I will check that the sensor has not slipped down. I can see it is about 3mm below the top surface, which seems ok according to Bill's table of distances. (It's a grey sensor)

The consensus seems to be that there is no connector in the cable-run, in which case the trouble is either with the sensor or magnet. 

If I need to replace the sensor, it seems I can either drill out the old one or maybe knock it out with a 10mm dowel and mallet?  The grey sensor kit comes with a magnet, so I will replace that too. Getting my hands on the sensor kit while cruising in Greece will be a little tricky.

Thank you Vladan, Dimitris, Nick, Roque and Bill. I have been helped up this little learning curve very quickly :-)
--
Dean Gillies
SV Stella *****,  Amel 54-154

--
Vladan

A54 #157
SV PAME


--
Roque
Attika A54 117
Paraty - Brazil 


Re: Chain Counter Sensor Connector A54

Vladan SV PAME
 

Dean,

In Greece you can find Lewmar parts here:  https://nautilus.gr/en

They have many shops in Greece and they can also deliver to you.

Best Regards,
Vladan


From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Dean Gillies <stella@...>
Sent: Friday, June 3, 2022 10:23:59 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Chain Counter Sensor Connector A54
 
This forum is amazing!  So much knowledge and experience..

So, I will clean and check out the magnet and swap the gypsy from the secondary windlass too to see if that makes a difference. Also, I will check that the sensor has not slipped down. I can see it is about 3mm below the top surface, which seems ok according to Bill's table of distances. (It's a grey sensor)

The consensus seems to be that there is no connector in the cable-run, in which case the trouble is either with the sensor or magnet. 

If I need to replace the sensor, it seems I can either drill out the old one or maybe knock it out with a 10mm dowel and mallet?  The grey sensor kit comes with a magnet, so I will replace that too. Getting my hands on the sensor kit while cruising in Greece will be a little tricky.

Thank you Vladan, Dimitris, Nick, Roque and Bill. I have been helped up this little learning curve very quickly :-)
--
Dean Gillies
SV Stella *****,  Amel 54-154

--
Vladan

A54 #157
SV PAME


Re: Chain Counter Sensor Connector A54

Dean Gillies
 

This forum is amazing!  So much knowledge and experience..

So, I will clean and check out the magnet and swap the gypsy from the secondary windlass too to see if that makes a difference. Also, I will check that the sensor has not slipped down. I can see it is about 3mm below the top surface, which seems ok according to Bill's table of distances. (It's a grey sensor)

The consensus seems to be that there is no connector in the cable-run, in which case the trouble is either with the sensor or magnet. 

If I need to replace the sensor, it seems I can either drill out the old one or maybe knock it out with a 10mm dowel and mallet?  The grey sensor kit comes with a magnet, so I will replace that too. Getting my hands on the sensor kit while cruising in Greece will be a little tricky.

Thank you Vladan, Dimitris, Nick, Roque and Bill. I have been helped up this little learning curve very quickly :-)
--
Dean Gillies
SV Stella *****,  Amel 54-154


Re: Tachometer

 


image.png



CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   

On Fri, Jun 3, 2022 at 11:19 AM Steve Bell <stevejb59@...> wrote:
Hi All,
         The rev counter for my Yanmar 4jh3-hte on my gauge is fluctuating the higher the revs the less fluctuation.
I don't believe the tachometer is working correctly .
Where is the tachometer sensor on the engine? or where does the rev counter get its input from and how can I check this.?

e.g the rev counter will show 1200 rpm and then jump to 1400rpm with no increase in engine revs or bounce between 1500 rpm and 1600rpm 

Regards

Steve
s/v Dusk # 378


Tachometer

Steve Bell
 

Hi All,
         The rev counter for my Yanmar 4jh3-hte on my gauge is fluctuating the higher the revs the less fluctuation.
I don't believe the tachometer is working correctly .
Where is the tachometer sensor on the engine? or where does the rev counter get its input from and how can I check this.?

e.g the rev counter will show 1200 rpm and then jump to 1400rpm with no increase in engine revs or bounce between 1500 rpm and 1600rpm 

Regards

Steve
s/v Dusk # 378


Re: Emergency Navigation

PAOLO CUNEO
 





Paper chart are fine, I carry always a full set of them, and they should be mandatory, but, in an emergency, if soaked in water, they can be as useless as a soaked iPad.
Concerning the lightning strike, my strategy is based on the hope that the steel safe installed by Amel in the aft cabin can act as a Faraday Cage, and I keep an old cellphone with a resident full set of Navionics chart stowed there.
Otherwise, I myself have arranged a stand for the iPad on my Whisper ( photo) similar to Ralph’s which, originated as a backup, turned out to be so comfortable that my current practice is to keep the MFD (pictured the left) permanently on a full screen radar, and the iPad on the right as a full screen chart plotter.


Paolo
SM 454 Whisper



Inviato da iPad

--
Paolo Cuneo
SM 454 Whisper


Re: Amel 54 - Volkswagen TDI Cooling

Gregory Dmitriev
 

Thanks!
This is true - it's not easy to get good service for this engine.
Changing belts is a nightmare.


Re: Chain Counter Sensor Connector A54

 


Here are some pages from the manual that answer your questions and also a link to download the manual. I suspect that the connectors probably exist, but I do not know where. Also, note the "GREY" & "BLACK" sensors.

image.png

image.png


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   

On Fri, Jun 3, 2022 at 6:15 AM Roque <ediroque@...> wrote:
Hi Dean

In addition to all previews comments:

1. Yes, the sensor is just a reed switch. While I was waiting for a replacement, I “fabricated” one using a reed switch inside a plastic tube (BIC pen). The reed switches cost  US 1 a dozen. I still have the Lewmar new one in the box as a spare! 

2. I would begin by replacing the magnet. Easy task, also inexpensive on Ebay.

3. I never found a conector along the wire but  I suppose there is none. The wire is very unlikely to be the problem. 

Roque
Attika A-54 # 117
Paraty. Brazil

Em sex., 3 de jun. de 2022 às 05:55, Nick Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> escreveu:
Hi Dean,

I replaced my non functioning Lewmar chain counter with the Lofrans version (Iris) a couple of years ago. Has been perfect ever since. 
I changed the sensor and the magnet. The sensor is mounted  from below the windlass. I tried yanking the old one out by the wire but broke it. So I drilled it out. I then inserted the new one and sealed it in place with silicon.

I then spliced the new cables to old with solder and heat shrink tubing.

The magnet too, which is on the gypsy got drilled out and a new one epoxied in its place.

The whole installation up forward was pretty easy. The wiring above the galley sink was harder, from a dexterity point of view.

Nick
S/Y Amelia
AML54-019
Turkey


On 3 Jun 2022, at 10:55, Dimitris Krasopoulos <dkrasopoulos@...> wrote:

Push the connector up it has the tendency to fall put some chewing gum or some plastic clay to keep it in place as much up as possible. The magnet in the gypsy is easy to inspect . It can be damaged from the salt and can easily been replaced if necessary. Do not turn the Gypsy upside down as the position of the magnet is different and you are going to have no signal at all



=================
Στάλθηκε από το iPhone of Dimitris Krasopoulos 
Mob Greek +306944302318
Mob Dubai
+971564602575

On Jun 3, 2022, at 9:28 AM, Dean Gillies <stella@...> wrote:



Hi Amelians,

I'm having a problem with the chain counter sensor of my Lewmar V4/5 windlass (Amel 54). The control head unit in the cockpit is the AA560. I assume this sensor is just a reed switch which triggers with each rotation of the gypsy as the magnet passes overhead. 

The problem shows up as random counting (and beeping) and the diagnostic check shows the sensor output being "unstable". The voltages displaying on the AA560 diagnostic check are unstable, flickering between 4.8-5.0V on the red connection and 0-2V on the black connection.

So, it looks like I have either a faulty sensor or a problem in the wiring/connectors.  I have checked the cable connections at the terminal block behind the AA560 head unit and they look fine. 

In the fore-locker I can see the grey cable coming out of the windlass bottom plate where the sensor is located. The cable (along with the main power cabling for the windlass motor) then runs into some conduits and around into the switch panel in the box in the aft starboard corner of the fore-locker.

It seems to run through that locker (difficult to see) and out into a conduit that runs across the top of the locker and then aft into the boat.  

The questions in my mind at the moment:

Is there a connector somewhere along this sensor cable run that could be faulty, or is it a single cable run from the sensor to the terminal block behind the control head?

Is it easy to remove that sensor from the windlass plate? How? Is it glued in there?

Has someone trodden this path before me and can offer some guidance?
 
In the meantime, I will disconnect the cable behind the control head to stop the beeping!

Many thanks

--
Dean Gillies
SV Stella *****,  Amel 54-154


--
Roque
Attika A54 117
Paraty - Brazil 

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