Date   

Re: shaft brake too loose

David Dickman
 

Thanks Courtney! Will fix this tomorrow and post my findings

On Sun, Jun 5, 2022 at 10:13 PM David Dickman via groups.io <jdd91656=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:
Great idea Stefan, thanks for the image

On Sun, Jun 5, 2022 at 10:11 AM Stefan Jeukendrup <sjeukendrup@...> wrote:
Hi David,

Screwing in the bold on the back of the piston indeed increases the pressure on the brake pads.
But only until it hits a limit: the end of piston movement. When that happened I temporarily inserted a suitable piece of sheet metal between clamp and top of the piston. 
 
But in the end  I had to:
* replace the brake pads
* replace the piston seals (had a leak)
replace the central bearing in the clamp
* replace the elastic bands to reduce  the piston assembly vibration 
* fit a bold in the arm that touches the top of the piston.

See picture, hope this helps,


Stefan Jeukendrup
sv Malaka Queen
SM2k #348 @ Newry, Northern Ireland



Op 5 jun. 2022 15:32 schreef David Dickman <jdd91656@...>:
Thanks Jason!  Exactly what I was needing.  Will try it today.

Best,
     David

On Sun, Jun 5, 2022 at 8:51 AM Jason Rutledge <jasonrutledge1@...> wrote:
I just rebuilt mine...Screw the big nut on the end, in, Clockwise.  This will put more pressure on the spring inside and more pressure on the brake. 
--
Jason Rutledge
SV Liahona
SM 335




Re: shaft brake too loose

David Dickman
 

Great idea Stefan, thanks for the image

On Sun, Jun 5, 2022 at 10:11 AM Stefan Jeukendrup <sjeukendrup@...> wrote:
Hi David,

Screwing in the bold on the back of the piston indeed increases the pressure on the brake pads.
But only until it hits a limit: the end of piston movement. When that happened I temporarily inserted a suitable piece of sheet metal between clamp and top of the piston. 
 
But in the end  I had to:
* replace the brake pads
* replace the piston seals (had a leak)
replace the central bearing in the clamp
* replace the elastic bands to reduce  the piston assembly vibration 
* fit a bold in the arm that touches the top of the piston.

See picture, hope this helps,


Stefan Jeukendrup
sv Malaka Queen
SM2k #348 @ Newry, Northern Ireland



Op 5 jun. 2022 15:32 schreef David Dickman <jdd91656@...>:
Thanks Jason!  Exactly what I was needing.  Will try it today.

Best,
     David

On Sun, Jun 5, 2022 at 8:51 AM Jason Rutledge <jasonrutledge1@...> wrote:
I just rebuilt mine...Screw the big nut on the end, in, Clockwise.  This will put more pressure on the spring inside and more pressure on the brake. 
--
Jason Rutledge
SV Liahona
SM 335




Re: Dangers of Halyard Jam & Wrapping on the Forestay

Bill Kinney
 

In addition to Bill R's excellent advice, I'll add another issue the should trigger an inspection trip up the mast to look for this.

Another symptom of a halyard wrap is when you break the tab that keeps the lower part of the swivel aligned with the foil.  The primary symptom of this is difficulty in getting the balloner to "latch" when you pull it up the mast.  This part CAN fail due to age and wear, but it can also be torn off with a halyard wrap, with all the potentially dire consequences listed above.

These problems are not at all unique to Amel.  All electric or hydraulic furling systems can have the same issue, for the same reasons.  I have even seen this happen when people are using a manual furler.  They feel unusual resistance, and instead of stopping and figuring out why, they put the furling line on a winch and crank away...

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Le Marin, Martinique.


Re: How to change the veneer on the companionway without removing the dodger

Doug Smith
 

Thanks Eric,

Did you use any specific type of adhesive to get the laminate to attach, or did you just use the adhesive that was already in place on the laminate and not add any other adhesive?

Doug Smith,

Aventura A-54-113

Hilton Head SC

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Eric Freedman
Sent: Friday, June 3, 2022 5:44 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] How to change the veneer on the companionway without removing the dodger

 

Hi,

Here is how I did it.

It is easy. It is important clamp guide rails to the door, so the router stays level while removing the veneer.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io On Behalf Of Alex Lomakin via groups.io
Sent: Wednesday, May 25, 2022 6:51 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] How to change the veneer on the companionway without removing the dodger

 

Dear all,
Following your advice, I have unscrewed the stopper, lifted the washboard to the highest point, stripped off the left-overs of the delaminated veneer and found the underlying plywood in OK-ish, but not exactly perfect condition. So the jury is out deciding what to do next: try to save this board or make a brand new one…
Once the job is done one way or another, I would let you know.
Thank you very much to all of you for your help.
Sincerely,
Alex


Re: shaft brake too loose

Courtney Gorman
 

Put a quarter behind the spot where the piston engages this will solve the problem until A better fix. My quarter has now been in place for three years


On Jun 5, 2022, at 10:31 AM, David Dickman <jdd91656@...> wrote:


Thanks Jason!  Exactly what I was needing.  Will try it today.

Best,
     David

On Sun, Jun 5, 2022 at 8:51 AM Jason Rutledge <jasonrutledge1@...> wrote:
I just rebuilt mine...Screw the big nut on the end, in, Clockwise.  This will put more pressure on the spring inside and more pressure on the brake. 
--
Jason Rutledge
SV Liahona
SM 335


Re: Fresh Water Pump stopped working

 

Carlos,

I have serious doubts about that pump. First of all, it is 12 volts, secondly, it is a diaphragm pump much like the Jabsco PAR Max.

Bill


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   


On Sun, Jun 5, 2022 at 1:47 PM Carlos Martin <carlosmhanhewer@...> wrote:
Coloque este equipo en mi Mango de 1980 y va perfecto, silencioso, poco peso y a un precio razonable
https://www.francobordo.com/seaflo-bomba-presion-con-acumulador-p-346238.html?options={284}14363 


Dangers of Halyard Jam & Wrapping on the Forestay

 

All Amel owners, All Models,

This is important. 

I am seeing more and more of this halyard wrapping problem. I wrote everyone about this several months ago and since then there have been 3 incidences that have occurred on Amel models including a Super Maramu, A54, and A50. Loose and mispositioned halyards at the mainmast top on any sailboat are dangerous and can lead to dismasting, losing most of the rig, and serious injury or loss of life.

When a mispositioned halyard or loose external halyard jams and wraps around the forestay, the operation of the furler can untwist the wire, severely weakening the stay. If one of your foresail halyards breaks, it is possible that the forestay has been severely weakened. Be sure to inspect it closely. This is what it will look like at the swage at top of the mast. 
image.png

My Recommendations (Bill Rouse):
- You should be keenly aware of the possibility of a halyard wrap causing serious life-threatening issues with any Amel model
- Inspect the forestay at its connection to the mast at least once a year and/or immediately after the loss of a fore halyard.
- Before sailing, you should inspect all external halyards and ensure that none will interfere with any other rigging
- Store the extra halyards away from the genoa furler, on the sides very tightly (NOT ON THE PULPIT), and don't install too many halyards
- When sailing, always keep all of the foresail halyards very tight
- When not in use, store the gennaker/spinnaker halyard behind the spreaders and tightly to the rail.
Bill


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   


Re: Fresh Water Pump stopped working

Carlos Martin
 

Coloque este equipo en mi Mango de 1980 y va perfecto, silencioso, poco peso y a un precio razonable
https://www.francobordo.com/seaflo-bomba-presion-con-acumulador-p-346238.html?options={284}14363 


Re: shaft brake too loose

Stefan Jeukendrup
 

Hi David,

Screwing in the bold on the back of the piston indeed increases the pressure on the brake pads.
But only until it hits a limit: the end of piston movement. When that happened I temporarily inserted a suitable piece of sheet metal between clamp and top of the piston. 
 
But in the end  I had to:
* replace the brake pads
* replace the piston seals (had a leak)
replace the central bearing in the clamp
* replace the elastic bands to reduce  the piston assembly vibration 
* fit a bold in the arm that touches the top of the piston.

See picture, hope this helps,


Stefan Jeukendrup
sv Malaka Queen
SM2k #348 @ Newry, Northern Ireland



Op 5 jun. 2022 15:32 schreef David Dickman <jdd91656@...>:

Thanks Jason!  Exactly what I was needing.  Will try it today.

Best,
     David

On Sun, Jun 5, 2022 at 8:51 AM Jason Rutledge <jasonrutledge1@...> wrote:
I just rebuilt mine...Screw the big nut on the end, in, Clockwise.  This will put more pressure on the spring inside and more pressure on the brake. 
--
Jason Rutledge
SV Liahona
SM 335




Re: shaft brake too loose

David Dickman
 

Thanks Jason!  Exactly what I was needing.  Will try it today.

Best,
     David

On Sun, Jun 5, 2022 at 8:51 AM Jason Rutledge <jasonrutledge1@...> wrote:
I just rebuilt mine...Screw the big nut on the end, in, Clockwise.  This will put more pressure on the spring inside and more pressure on the brake. 
--
Jason Rutledge
SV Liahona
SM 335


Re: Tachometer

Steve Bell
 

Thank you Bill/Eric. for your input .
Regards

Steve
s/v Dusk # 378


Re: shaft brake too loose

Jason Rutledge
 

I just rebuilt mine...Screw the big nut on the end, in, Clockwise.  This will put more pressure on the spring inside and more pressure on the brake. 
--
Jason Rutledge
SV Liahona
SM 335


shaft brake too loose

David Dickman
 

HI All,
  I recently had a new shaft brake caliper set installed by Amel in Martinique.  On the passage to take the boat back to Houston, the shaft brake still operates and closes when the engine is shut off, but has increasingly insufficient pressure to hold the shaft locked.  The result is that the brake is closed, but the shaft (and propeller) spin during sail only conditions.  At first, the brake held for low boat speeds but was insufficient to brake the shaft during high boat speeds.  As time went on, now the shaft spins continuously during sail, even though the pads are closed. 

In Bill Rouse's Amel guide (page 243) he describes how to take the whole assembly off.  there it states to loosen the adjusting bolt on the back of the hydraulic actuator to open the jaws of the calipers.  

I have tried that procedure during a sail when the shaft is spinning to increase the caliper pressure on the brake and stop the shaft from spinning, but no luck so far.

My question to the group is: has this happened to anyone else?  Which way do you turn the adjusting bolt: CW or CCW when looking from the back onto the surface of the bolt?  I am afraid that I may loosen it too much in an effor to adjust it and the bolt could fall out with unknown consequences.

I am currently in Caymans and leave for the final leg of passage to Houston ina few days and would like to fix it before I go if possible.

Any advice is welcome!

Best, 
David
Galini A54-100


Re: Fresh Water Pump stopped working

 

Alex,

I am glad you have the pump back in working condition.

The pump is self-priming. After opening the pump as you did, as you start up the system, you need to open a tap inside the boat for the pump to be able to displace the air in the system. Then if the pump is in working condition and there is no vacuum leak on the suction side, it will self-prime. The hole in the accumulator tank is on the pressure side and would not interfere with self-priming.

Bill

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   

On Sun, Jun 5, 2022 at 6:59 AM Alex Lomakin via groups.io <alexander.a.lomakin=btinternet.com@groups.io> wrote:

Dear all,

 

After having sent to all of you my previous desperate message, yesterday I spent another few hours inside the engine compartment and here is my report:

 

  1. I scrolled once again through the Bill’s Amel Book, then its online supplements and, although before dismantling the pump was working flawlessly, just in case, I watched the YouTube clip on how to adjust the pressure switch, where it was also suggested to check whether the switch’s “orifice” was clean. So I did just that and here I had my biggest surprise so far: the “orifice” was completely clogged with some very nasty looking rusty goo, which must have accumulated there since the boat was launched some 18 years ago…
  2. I cleaned the “orifice”, put everything back together - no luck.
  3. Then I disconnected hoses from both the suction pipe and pressurised water nozzle, put the suction hose in a bottle of water, ran the pump again - nothing.
  4. Lastly, I decided to “prime” the pump manually and filled it with water from the bottle, switch the pump on and finally it had spit the water out with a very good pressure!
  5. I primed the pump manually again, connected hoses back to the system, switch the pump on and (OMG!!!) the water has started running merrily from all taps, etc. In due course, the pressure switch clicked off, then on and so on in a very normal fashion - problem solved…
  6. No, it was not solved as I have noticed a very small leak dropping down from the pressurised hose or so I thought. The hose, however, was completely fine. And here was my second surprise: the small leak was coming from underneath and old completely discoloured sticker with some signs of corrosion on top of the accumulator tank. So I scratch a bit of the sticker off and there it was: very thin and “beautiful” column of vaporised water as if it was coming from a domestic room humidifier… The tank had a very tiny corrosion crack in it and, obviously, the pump could not self-prime, etc.

 

My biggest question, of course, is why the pump had actually worked before my not-so-divine intervention and the only “scientific” explanation I could think of is that the tank has been corroding for quite some time by now and given that, once dismantled, the pump was exposed to the sun a couple of times for a few hours (while lying on the deck), the tank has finally cracked in its weakest spot due to the metal’s thermal expansion (recently daily temperatures in Port Napoleon have been well above 30C in the shade and closer to 50+C on the open sun).

 

 

Anyway, my next problem is where to get a new accumulator tank from (for now I refuse to give up and buy a new pump…).

 

The tanks available on SVB are too wide and will not fit.

 

I have come across a Spanish online seller, which seems to have a correct tank (https://www.imnasa.com/en/accumulator-tank-2-l-amfa-40b-66b-88b.html), but, although it seems to be able to sell its products to international clientele, it has “demanded” a number of my ID Card to process the order and ID Cards are not introduced in the Blighty, at least yet…

 

So, guys, has anyone of you bought anything from the Imnasa and how did you do that, please?

 

Or, if you have any alternative suggestions on where to get a new tank from, I would really appreciate your help.

 

 

NB    Tomorrow I will myself try Nicola Collins from Nauticool recommended by Bill.

 

 

Thank you very much,

 

Alex

SM 416

 

PS     Dear Slavko, thanks a great bunch for pointing out “item 25” to me. I hope it shall help me prime the pump after I fix it (keeping fingers crossed…)


Re: Fresh Water Pump stopped working

Alex Lomakin
 

Dear all,

 

After having sent to all of you my previous desperate message, yesterday I spent another few hours inside the engine compartment and here is my report:

 

  1. I scrolled once again through the Bill’s Amel Book, then its online supplements and, although before dismantling the pump was working flawlessly, just in case, I watched the YouTube clip on how to adjust the pressure switch, where it was also suggested to check whether the switch’s “orifice” was clean. So I did just that and here I had my biggest surprise so far: the “orifice” was completely clogged with some very nasty looking rusty goo, which must have accumulated there since the boat was launched some 18 years ago…
  2. I cleaned the “orifice”, put everything back together - no luck.
  3. Then I disconnected hoses from both the suction pipe and pressurised water nozzle, put the suction hose in a bottle of water, ran the pump again - nothing.
  4. Lastly, I decided to “prime” the pump manually and filled it with water from the bottle, switch the pump on and finally it had spit the water out with a very good pressure!
  5. I primed the pump manually again, connected hoses back to the system, switch the pump on and (OMG!!!) the water has started running merrily from all taps, etc. In due course, the pressure switch clicked off, then on and so on in a very normal fashion - problem solved…
  6. No, it was not solved as I have noticed a very small leak dropping down from the pressurised hose or so I thought. The hose, however, was completely fine. And here was my second surprise: the small leak was coming from underneath and old completely discoloured sticker with some signs of corrosion on top of the accumulator tank. So I scratch a bit of the sticker off and there it was: very thin and “beautiful” column of vaporised water as if it was coming from a domestic room humidifier… The tank had a very tiny corrosion crack in it and, obviously, the pump could not self-prime, etc.

 

My biggest question, of course, is why the pump had actually worked before my not-so-divine intervention and the only “scientific” explanation I could think of is that the tank has been corroding for quite some time by now and given that, once dismantled, the pump was exposed to the sun a couple of times for a few hours (while lying on the deck), the tank has finally cracked in its weakest spot due to the metal’s thermal expansion (recently daily temperatures in Port Napoleon have been well above 30C in the shade and closer to 50+C on the open sun).

 

 

Anyway, my next problem is where to get a new accumulator tank from (for now I refuse to give up and buy a new pump…).

 

The tanks available on SVB are too wide and will not fit.

 

I have come across a Spanish online seller, which seems to have a correct tank (https://www.imnasa.com/en/accumulator-tank-2-l-amfa-40b-66b-88b.html), but, although it seems to be able to sell its products to international clientele, it has “demanded” a number of my ID Card to process the order and ID Cards are not introduced in the Blighty, at least yet…

 

So, guys, has anyone of you bought anything from the Imnasa and how did you do that, please?

 

Or, if you have any alternative suggestions on where to get a new tank from, I would really appreciate your help.

 

 

NB    Tomorrow I will myself try Nicola Collins from Nauticool recommended by Bill.

 

 

Thank you very much,

 

Alex

SM 416

 

PS     Dear Slavko, thanks a great bunch for pointing out “item 25” to me. I hope it shall help me prime the pump after I fix it (keeping fingers crossed…)


locked Re: Engine troubles in Sardegna

James Alton
 

Kimberly,

   I agree with Danny that this should not be a difficult job to correct.  As suggested the first step is to figure out where the leak is.  You can fill the cooling system with plain water initially to do your leak checking so that you are not adding more coolant to the bilge.  After correcting the leak you will need to drain the system and refill with 50/50 antifreeze and water.  ( I always use distilled water but it can be hard to find in your location)   If you find that the fresh water cooling pump is leaking,  it is an easy change out.  I changed ours preemptively without much hassle.   Be sure that your replacement pump comes with a gasket!   More than likely the leakage is a hose or a connection somewhere.  If you don't find the problem on the engine itself, check the hot water heater loop and hoses which carry coolant.  I There are two 4.154 engines and not all parts are interchangeable.  I think that the freshwater cooling pump is interchangeable between the two models but ask to be sure.  Your  engine number will show whether you have the English or the Japanese Series 200 model.  You can also ID the engine by the type of injection pump it has.  My primary contacts for Sardinia are in Arbatax which is South of you.  

   I am guessing that you are talking about the cooling system cap breaking?  If so we found a replacement in Sardinia after some searching, it fit some model of a truck. The actual coolant tank and exhaust manifold should be by Bowman.  You can PM me if you think I can help further.

Best,

James Alton
SV Sueno
Maramu #220
Marmaris, Turkey


-----Original Message-----
From: Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io; Kimberly Bunch via groups.io <kimberlybunch@...>
Sent: Sun, Jun 5, 2022 12:09 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Mayday! Engine troubles in Sardegna

Hi Kimberly. All the cooling fluid in the bilge? Check all hoses and hose connections, simple stuff. Connections to the heat exchanger. I would doubt it is a pump failure. Hoses do split, particularly when they are old. Hose clips can rust and hoses come off, O rings get old and fail.
Fill the coolant tank, run the engine sitting in the engine room and see where the coolant is leaking from. I recently had a coolant hose come off on my genset engine. Fortunately I saw the coolant sloshing around where it shouldn't be so it was no big deal/
Kind Regards
Danny
SM 299
Ocean Pearl
On 05/06/2022 20:28 Kimberly Bunch via groups.io <kimberlybunch@...> wrote:


Hi all,

We have the Maramu #98 1981 with the infamous, invincible "Mr Perkins" engine, 4.154 M. Well, he's overheated on us  ( the alarm didn't sound and luckily my husband just happened tobe looking at the temperature gauge next to the helm). After replacing the cooling fluid, and motoring a short time to get to safety, the next day all the coolant had drained into the bilge! 

We think it's probably the water pump in the cooling system that needs to be replaced. My husband is planning to order another water pump from Perkins suppliers in the UK and have it shipped to us here in Olbia, Italy. Then he'll attempt to refit it correctly. He's not an engine mechanic and we are a bit worried to ask someone here to do it, knowing that there are very few mechanics working with Perkins motors at all.

So, I am asking for any advice that will help us do the job please. Or if anyone has a mechanic they know in Olbia or nearby in Sardegna ( long shot I know!)

Also, the cover for the place where you add the coolant has just broken! Does anyone know of someone who has replaced their engine but kept parts like this? 

We are so disappointed as we are midway on our trip from France to Greece 😥 any help would be much appreciated.

Cheers,
Kimberly SV Kujira Maramu #98


 





locked Re: Engine troubles in Sardegna

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Kimberly. All the cooling fluid in the bilge? Check all hoses and hose connections, simple stuff. Connections to the heat exchanger. I would doubt it is a pump failure. Hoses do split, particularly when they are old. Hose clips can rust and hoses come off, O rings get old and fail.
Fill the coolant tank, run the engine sitting in the engine room and see where the coolant is leaking from. I recently had a coolant hose come off on my genset engine. Fortunately I saw the coolant sloshing around where it shouldn't be so it was no big deal/
Kind Regards
Danny
SM 299
Ocean Pearl

On 05/06/2022 20:28 Kimberly Bunch via groups.io <kimberlybunch@...> wrote:


Hi all,

We have the Maramu #98 1981 with the infamous, invincible "Mr Perkins" engine, 4.154 M. Well, he's overheated on us  ( the alarm didn't sound and luckily my husband just happened tobe looking at the temperature gauge next to the helm). After replacing the cooling fluid, and motoring a short time to get to safety, the next day all the coolant had drained into the bilge! 

We think it's probably the water pump in the cooling system that needs to be replaced. My husband is planning to order another water pump from Perkins suppliers in the UK and have it shipped to us here in Olbia, Italy. Then he'll attempt to refit it correctly. He's not an engine mechanic and we are a bit worried to ask someone here to do it, knowing that there are very few mechanics working with Perkins motors at all.

So, I am asking for any advice that will help us do the job please. Or if anyone has a mechanic they know in Olbia or nearby in Sardegna ( long shot I know!)

Also, the cover for the place where you add the coolant has just broken! Does anyone know of someone who has replaced their engine but kept parts like this? 

We are so disappointed as we are midway on our trip from France to Greece 😥 any help would be much appreciated.

Cheers,
Kimberly SV Kujira Maramu #98



 


locked Engine troubles in Sardegna

Kimberly Bunch
 

Hi all,

We have the Maramu #98 1981 with the infamous, invincible "Mr Perkins" engine, 4.154 M. Well, he's overheated on us  ( the alarm didn't sound and luckily my husband just happened tobe looking at the temperature gauge next to the helm). After replacing the cooling fluid, and motoring a short time to get to safety, the next day all the coolant had drained into the bilge! 

We think it's probably the water pump in the cooling system that needs to be replaced. My husband is planning to order another water pump from Perkins suppliers in the UK and have it shipped to us here in Olbia, Italy. Then he'll attempt to refit it correctly. He's not an engine mechanic and we are a bit worried to ask someone here to do it, knowing that there are very few mechanics working with Perkins motors at all.

So, I am asking for any advice that will help us do the job please. Or if anyone has a mechanic they know in Olbia or nearby in Sardegna ( long shot I know!)

Also, the cover for the place where you add the coolant has just broken! Does anyone know of someone who has replaced their engine but kept parts like this? 

We are so disappointed as we are midway on our trip from France to Greece 😥 any help would be much appreciated.

Cheers,
Kimberly SV Kujira Maramu #98

 

 
1 - 1 of 1  
 


Re: Running poles

Nick Newington
 

Good to know. I will reinstate the original. I need to wait on that project until  probably when I haul out. In about three weeks time. Drop the poles down below the boat onto a couple of horses…even if I cannot source the rivets I can do the main work, painting and priming etc  and source the rivets at home.

Nick
S/Y Amelia
AML54-019


On 4 Jun 2022, at 20:33, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:


Nick the pole fittings were originally riveted. 

Someone has tampered with this and that caused your paint to bubble. My guess is that they drilled the rivet holes larger and this caused moisture to get between the paint and aluminum.

Bill


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   

On Sat, Jun 4, 2022 at 3:26 AM Nick Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:

I re placed the pealing strip that protects the pole from the bulwork with some cow hide. It is glued down with two part contact adhesive. We shall see how long it lasts. It may curl off on the sun…if so then maybe a piece of treadmaster would be better.

I stitched on some at the heel of the pole to protect the deck a few years ago and it is fine. See photos




But the stainless fittings have corroded the aluminium.





I think that I will remove the end cap and the fittings which are bolted and epoxy prime, repaint and insert some kind of spacer between the aluminium and the stainless. I was thinking to fibre glass and epoxy onto the primer  and paint over before redrilling and using Monel rivets…to fix the stainless fittings. There is a backing plate that takes the load, the rivets are just to hold it all in place.
If anyone has a better idea please let me know….
Nick
S/Y Amelia, just hanging out and doing those smaller jobs….
Fethiye bay Turkey
AML54-019






Re: Fresh Water Pump stopped working

 

It is very easy to mount the one-way valve backward. And, sometimes the on-way valve will get stuck open with a piece of debris. Also, this is very important, any suction leak of any kind will cause the same problem and suction leaks cannot be seen. Make absolutely sure the hose connection to the copper is sealed with silicone sealant. BTW, when new it was glued by Amel.

image.png

image.png
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   

On Sat, Jun 4, 2022 at 11:41 AM Slavko Despotovic <slavko@...> wrote:
This is option as well. Parts for my pump were 25 euro and few hours of work from my side. 

--
Slavko
SM 2000
#279 Bonne Anse in Croatia

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