Date   

Rocna 25 on Sisila

Attilio Siviero <attilio.siviero@...>
 

the photo of the Rocna 25 on Sisila is posted among photos under Sisila
Attilio&Maria Amel Santorin#86 "Sisila"




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Rocna 25 on Santorin

Attilio Siviero <attilio.siviero@...>
 

Hi to all Santorin owners,
since I never had much confidence on the ordinary CQR anchor inherited with the Santorin, I purchased last year (#86 ex Delos, now Sisila), I purchsed a Rocna 25, maybe too heavy, anyhow much heavier than the CQR.
The problem is that the trunk is too high to pass thru the bow (excuse my approximate English). SM#5 Spice said tht the trim of the trunk mst be to 12cm: according to my measurements, the R25 must be trimmd to 10cm, accordinf to the attached photo.
Regards
Maria&Attilio Amel Santorin#86  "Sisila"




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: LED bulbs

spritoaffine <spritoaffine@...>
 

Hello All
Ref LEDs I've found www.searolf.com to be excellent, good products, good prices, I've also used www.midsummerenergy.co.uk for rigid LED strips which have proved great for all sorts of areas, they're big in solar panels too
David Worthington
Sharki 148
Spirito Affine

--- In amelyachtowners@..., john martin <symoondog@...> wrote:


Hi Martin



In response to your inquiry about LED bulbs:



I have bought from 3 or 4 different companies and it has been a real learning experience. LED lights have vastly improved since I bought my first ones several years ago. The bulbs are much brighter and much less blue, and as they have evolved they are increasing the number of light cells within each bulb - the more little light cells the better. Don't buy them with any less than 9 little light cells. Also be sure to buy them for a 24V system.



For the dome lights below, I used the G4 LED bulb, a plug-in version that fits into the same socket as the G4 halogen bulbs. Many suppliers have these. The problem with our Amel overhead dome lights is that the halogen sockets are vertical and the G4 plugs are horizontal, and the domelight lens is flat, so you have to modify the dome light or modify the LED a little to get the new LED bulbs to fit/work. To modify the dome light, you can unscrew (2 screws) the socket in the dome light and then you twist it to be horizontal. The LED bulb will lie on the glass dome (with no support) but this works fine. Or to modify the LED bulb, you can also use small needle-nose pliers and bend/twist the 2 prongs of the G4 bulb to make them fit. Either way can work well. Because the domelight is flat there isn't any room for any type of LED iexcept a G4.



For the reading lights I got the LEDs from WWW.MASTLIGHT.COM. It's called a MR16GD21W spotlight. It has 2 prongs like the halogen bulb but wont fit immediately down into the fixture. I took a screwdriver and needle-nose pliers and twisted and pulled the shiny (conical like) reflector out of the fixture (but it is hard to get out). The LED bulbs will then fit in very nicely. The LED is 10 times cooler than the halogen but not quite as bright,but they are fine for reading. There is no way to get the LED in without removing the reflector.



I have a second dome light over the galley sink, with a red lens (for night sailing) but it has a white festoon bulb. This dome light has a concave lens (more room in it for a bulb). I got LED versions of the festoon bulb from WWW.LEDSHOPONLINE.COM in Austrailia.



For the interior wall-mounted cabin lights (the ones with the little lamp shades) and the dashboard dome light (which has a concave lens on our boat), they use a "bayonet double contact" bulb so you have to also buy a "bayonet double contact halogen lamp base" in addition to the LED bulb. It is confusing to buy a "halogen lamp base" but it is just an interface for the LED bulb into the lamp. We found Ancor brand of these lamp bases fairly easily at marine supply stores, or you can get them from WWW.SAILORSSOLUTIONS.COM. Once you have the lamp bases, you can use a G4 LED or a Sensibulb LED also sold by Sailors Solutions. The benefits of the Sensibulb LED is that it has a flexible wired mount you can face in any direction, and it will fit into any halogen base receptacle, but it cannot be used in the flat-lensed dome lights as there is insufficient room.



You will find that these lights burn very little amperage and will last a lifetime. The Austrailian company insists you put a diode in the 24 volt line to protect them from a surge over 30 amps, this only seems needed on a 24V system. I haven't had the surge problem but I put them in anyway. Sensibulb gave me 3 of them which I installed in each of the 3 cabin light systems.



The only new LED fixture I bought was a flexible goose-neck reading lamp, with a dimmer, from Sailors Solutions for about US$130. I removed the original Amel shaded lamp and installed the gooseneck at the aft port corner of the salon table. It is wonderful for reading in the salon and can be dimmed to provide nice "mood light" also.



Perhaps other Amel owners have other advice to offer?



Best regards,

John SY "Moon Dog" SM 248



To: amelyachtowners@...
From: yachtcaduceus@...
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2010 14:32:17 +0000
Subject: [Amel] Re: Deck Flood lights






Thanks for your reply. Can you give me any info as to what replacement bulbs you found satisfactory and the manufacture and source?
Martin Caduceus 54 #56

--- In amelyachtowners@..., john martin <symoondog@> wrote:


Martin, you have the right ideal. I replaced all the halogen bulbs in the cabin and had to retrofit some of them, much cheaper and faster then buying a complete new led fixture. I like your ideal of solar panels on the stern arch, but won't you get a shadow from the SSB antennae?. I have 2- 130 watt solars on the aft cabin and they are great. If I had 2 more I'd only use the generator to make hot water. If I put the arch on I'd eliminate the antenna and the SSB.With today's new technology with skype, cell phones, satellite phone, etc.,I belive their demise is certain. John "Moon Dog" SM248



To: amelyachtowners@...
From: yachtcaduceus@
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2010 13:34:38 +0000
Subject: [Amel] Deck Flood lights





Our Amel 54 is fitted with four deck floods, one in the cockpit, one for the foredeck and two on the main spreaders. They are all 28v 50w Halogen sealed beams.

We are in the process of fitting a stern arch to carry solar panels and the dinghy. Into this are being set two LED floods. These LED's are available in a variety of beam angles, and warmths, and are designed for the purpose. Similar floods are being fitted to the latest Oysters as spreader flood lights; we are having the work done at Fox's in Ipswich UK. They are is involved in fitting out Oyster yachts and I am assured that the LED floods are fit for purpose.

I am considering having some adapters made, modeled on the flange of the existing bulb that acts as the retainer in the housing that carries the bulb; machined out of some form of rigid nylon sheet, or similar. This adapter would then be used as a mount for the LED bulb without having to replace the existing housings. If successful the saving in power consumption would be considerable and make it much more practical to leave the lights on for more extended periods.

Rather than completely re-invent the wheel, does anyone have experience of this?

Regards,

Martin Bevan
Amel 54 #56 - Caduceus



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LED bulbs

john martin <symoondog@...>
 

Hi Martin



In response to your inquiry about LED bulbs:



I have bought from 3 or 4 different companies and it has been a real learning experience. LED lights have vastly improved since I bought my first ones several years ago. The bulbs are much brighter and much less blue, and as they have evolved they are increasing the number of light cells within each bulb - the more little light cells the better. Don't buy them with any less than 9 little light cells. Also be sure to buy them for a 24V system.



For the dome lights below, I used the G4 LED bulb, a plug-in version that fits into the same socket as the G4 halogen bulbs. Many suppliers have these. The problem with our Amel overhead dome lights is that the halogen sockets are vertical and the G4 plugs are horizontal, and the domelight lens is flat, so you have to modify the dome light or modify the LED a little to get the new LED bulbs to fit/work. To modify the dome light, you can unscrew (2 screws) the socket in the dome light and then you twist it to be horizontal. The LED bulb will lie on the glass dome (with no support) but this works fine. Or to modify the LED bulb, you can also use small needle-nose pliers and bend/twist the 2 prongs of the G4 bulb to make them fit. Either way can work well. Because the domelight is flat there isn't any room for any type of LED iexcept a G4.



For the reading lights I got the LEDs from WWW.MASTLIGHT.COM. It's called a MR16GD21W spotlight. It has 2 prongs like the halogen bulb but wont fit immediately down into the fixture. I took a screwdriver and needle-nose pliers and twisted and pulled the shiny (conical like) reflector out of the fixture (but it is hard to get out). The LED bulbs will then fit in very nicely. The LED is 10 times cooler than the halogen but not quite as bright,but they are fine for reading. There is no way to get the LED in without removing the reflector.



I have a second dome light over the galley sink, with a red lens (for night sailing) but it has a white festoon bulb. This dome light has a concave lens (more room in it for a bulb). I got LED versions of the festoon bulb from WWW.LEDSHOPONLINE.COM in Austrailia.



For the interior wall-mounted cabin lights (the ones with the little lamp shades) and the dashboard dome light (which has a concave lens on our boat), they use a "bayonet double contact" bulb so you have to also buy a "bayonet double contact halogen lamp base" in addition to the LED bulb. It is confusing to buy a "halogen lamp base" but it is just an interface for the LED bulb into the lamp. We found Ancor brand of these lamp bases fairly easily at marine supply stores, or you can get them from WWW.SAILORSSOLUTIONS.COM. Once you have the lamp bases, you can use a G4 LED or a Sensibulb LED also sold by Sailors Solutions. The benefits of the Sensibulb LED is that it has a flexible wired mount you can face in any direction, and it will fit into any halogen base receptacle, but it cannot be used in the flat-lensed dome lights as there is insufficient room.



You will find that these lights burn very little amperage and will last a lifetime. The Austrailian company insists you put a diode in the 24 volt line to protect them from a surge over 30 amps, this only seems needed on a 24V system. I haven't had the surge problem but I put them in anyway. Sensibulb gave me 3 of them which I installed in each of the 3 cabin light systems.



The only new LED fixture I bought was a flexible goose-neck reading lamp, with a dimmer, from Sailors Solutions for about US$130. I removed the original Amel shaded lamp and installed the gooseneck at the aft port corner of the salon table. It is wonderful for reading in the salon and can be dimmed to provide nice "mood light" also.



Perhaps other Amel owners have other advice to offer?



Best regards,

John SY "Moon Dog" SM 248



To: amelyachtowners@...
From: yachtcaduceus@...
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2010 14:32:17 +0000
Subject: [Amel] Re: Deck Flood lights






Thanks for your reply. Can you give me any info as to what replacement bulbs you found satisfactory and the manufacture and source?
Martin Caduceus 54 #56

--- In amelyachtowners@..., john martin <symoondog@...> wrote:


Martin, you have the right ideal. I replaced all the halogen bulbs in the cabin and had to retrofit some of them, much cheaper and faster then buying a complete new led fixture. I like your ideal of solar panels on the stern arch, but won't you get a shadow from the SSB antennae?. I have 2- 130 watt solars on the aft cabin and they are great. If I had 2 more I'd only use the generator to make hot water. If I put the arch on I'd eliminate the antenna and the SSB.With today's new technology with skype, cell phones, satellite phone, etc.,I belive their demise is certain. John "Moon Dog" SM248



To: amelyachtowners@...
From: yachtcaduceus@...
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2010 13:34:38 +0000
Subject: [Amel] Deck Flood lights





Our Amel 54 is fitted with four deck floods, one in the cockpit, one for the foredeck and two on the main spreaders. They are all 28v 50w Halogen sealed beams.

We are in the process of fitting a stern arch to carry solar panels and the dinghy. Into this are being set two LED floods. These LED's are available in a variety of beam angles, and warmths, and are designed for the purpose. Similar floods are being fitted to the latest Oysters as spreader flood lights; we are having the work done at Fox's in Ipswich UK. They are is involved in fitting out Oyster yachts and I am assured that the LED floods are fit for purpose.

I am considering having some adapters made, modeled on the flange of the existing bulb that acts as the retainer in the housing that carries the bulb; machined out of some form of rigid nylon sheet, or similar. This adapter would then be used as a mount for the LED bulb without having to replace the existing housings. If successful the saving in power consumption would be considerable and make it much more practical to leave the lights on for more extended periods.

Rather than completely re-invent the wheel, does anyone have experience of this?

Regards,

Martin Bevan
Amel 54 #56 - Caduceus



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Propellor

karkauai
 

I will give you a report when it's done...probably in June.
Kent

--- On Tue, 3/16/10, jlm@... <jlm@...> wrote:


From: jlm@... <jlm@...>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Tuesday, March 16, 2010, 4:36 AM


 



Fine, tell me more after this job,
Try to ask him his opinon to increese the power by 1/4 of turn of gas
oil rate,
if possible try that with this guy,
bonne chance
/"tout est possible dans un monde infini"/
jluc
------------ --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- -

Kent Robertson a écrit :


Thank you again Jean-Luc. Very interesting reading. I'll let you
know what I decide on after I have a Volvo service mechanic look at
the engine one more time.
I am currently in St. Maarten in the lesser Antilles and will be going
north thru the Virgins and Bahamas to the Chesapeake by June 1.
Probably won't get to the Med until after I go thru the Panama Canal
and do the Pacific for a few years.
Again, thank you for your interest and help.
Kent
KRISTY
SM 243

--- On Sun, 3/14/10, Jean-Luc <jlm@jlmertz. fr
<mailto:jlm% 40jlmertz. fr>> wrote:

From: Jean-Luc <jlm@jlmertz. fr <mailto:jlm% 40jlmertz. fr>>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor
To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
<mailto:amelyachtow ners%40yahoogrou ps.com>
Date: Sunday, March 14, 2010, 12:33 PM



The principle of the injection pump :
http://www.landrove rfaq.com/ download/ file.php? id=293&sid=
91cbea82e8cefc8&#92;
b18eb0f36efecdc39& mode=view
The Bosch book in English : http://www.htsuk. plus.com/ BOSCH_VE_
PUMPS.pdf

1 - If you have air (turbo ok) and gas oil (injection pump ok) you must
have power
2 - My opinion and only mein is that the engine (tmd22) is not in
accordance with my propeller.

To solve MY problem without to pay to much I increase only a very little
bit the power (if you put too much power the cooling system is not
sufficient we have a tmd and not a TAMD),
If you have a engineer culture you can do that by your self if not find
a VERY good mechanical (like one for truck, not necessarily a VOLVO
guy).

Read attached files it will help you to understand your engine,
Hoping that can help you,
are you in the Med area ?
jluc

CB SM316

____________ _________ _________ _________ _____
--- In amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com, Kent Robertson <karkauai@.. .>
wrote:

Merci, Jean-Luc,
I already had the injectors and pump removed and sent to Volvo service
center for inspection, cleaning, and adjustment. No change in
performance was noted. After repitching the fixed prop I was able to
get 2850rpms, but only 7.5 kts. After only a month I am now only able
to get 2650 rpm with the same prop. KRISTY is on the hard in St.
Maarten getting a new bottom paint job. I'll be interested to see if I
can again get 2850 with the bottom and the prop cleaned. If it still
max's at 2650 I have to assume that I still have a problem with the
Volvo. I plan to find a Volvo service center on the Chesapeake and have
them evaluate the engine one more time anyway. If I'm back to 2850,
I'll have the autoprop repitched to allow 3000 rpm.

I'm not really clear on your post about "Increase the power (one YOUR
risk) of the engine by changing the injection". I looked at the link
but my French is so bad that it wasn't much help. Have you altered the
injection pump to feed more fuel to the engine to gain more power? At
what "risk"?

Merci, again,
Kent
KRISTY
SM243



--- On Sat, 3/13/10, Jean-Luc jlm@... wrote:


From: Jean-Luc jlm@...
Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor
To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
Date: Saturday, March 13, 2010, 12:02 PM






I have exactly the same configuration as you (SM316)
With a new turbo, boat cleaned, injectors cleaned etc etc ...
On the best sea that you can imagine I can retch 2850 rpm and a spead
of 8.25 knds
AND THAT IS NOT ENOUGH !! the power of the TMD22 is at this point
around then 40 HP !!
!!
Conclusion : the seize of the autoprop is too big !

What you can do :

1. put a smaller prop (or re-pitch the autoprop)

2. Increase the power (one YOUR risk) of the engine by changing the
injection .... see my post (Bosch pump) it 10 minutes work !!

3. buy a AMEL 54 :-)

jlm
CottonBay sm316



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Propellor

jlm@jlmertz.fr
 

Fine, tell me more after this job,
Try to ask him his opinon to increese the power by 1/4 of turn of gas
oil rate,
if possible try that with this guy,
bonne chance
/"tout est possible dans un monde infini"/
jluc
------------------------------------------------------------------------

Kent Robertson a écrit :



Thank you again Jean-Luc. Very interesting reading. I'll let you
know what I decide on after I have a Volvo service mechanic look at
the engine one more time.
I am currently in St. Maarten in the lesser Antilles and will be going
north thru the Virgins and Bahamas to the Chesapeake by June 1.
Probably won't get to the Med until after I go thru the Panama Canal
and do the Pacific for a few years.
Again, thank you for your interest and help.
Kent
KRISTY
SM 243

--- On Sun, 3/14/10, Jean-Luc <jlm@...
<mailto:jlm%40jlmertz.fr>> wrote:

From: Jean-Luc <jlm@... <mailto:jlm%40jlmertz.fr>>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor
To: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Date: Sunday, March 14, 2010, 12:33 PM



The principle of the injection pump :
http://www.landrove rfaq.com/ download/ file.php? id=293&sid=
91cbea82e8cefc8&#92;
b18eb0f36efecdc39& mode=view
The Bosch book in English : http://www.htsuk. plus.com/ BOSCH_VE_
PUMPS.pdf

1 - If you have air (turbo ok) and gas oil (injection pump ok) you must
have power
2 - My opinion and only mein is that the engine (tmd22) is not in
accordance with my propeller.

To solve MY problem without to pay to much I increase only a very little
bit the power (if you put too much power the cooling system is not
sufficient we have a tmd and not a TAMD),
If you have a engineer culture you can do that by your self if not find
a VERY good mechanical (like one for truck, not necessarily a VOLVO
guy).

Read attached files it will help you to understand your engine,
Hoping that can help you,
are you in the Med area ?
jluc

CB SM316

____________ _________ _________ _________ _____
--- In amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com, Kent Robertson <karkauai@.. .>
wrote:

Merci, Jean-Luc,
I already had the injectors and pump removed and sent to Volvo service
center for inspection, cleaning, and adjustment. No change in
performance was noted. After repitching the fixed prop I was able to
get 2850rpms, but only 7.5 kts. After only a month I am now only able
to get 2650 rpm with the same prop. KRISTY is on the hard in St.
Maarten getting a new bottom paint job. I'll be interested to see if I
can again get 2850 with the bottom and the prop cleaned. If it still
max's at 2650 I have to assume that I still have a problem with the
Volvo. I plan to find a Volvo service center on the Chesapeake and have
them evaluate the engine one more time anyway. If I'm back to 2850,
I'll have the autoprop repitched to allow 3000 rpm.

I'm not really clear on your post about "Increase the power (one YOUR
risk) of the engine by changing the injection". I looked at the link
but my French is so bad that it wasn't much help. Have you altered the
injection pump to feed more fuel to the engine to gain more power? At
what "risk"?

Merci, again,
Kent
KRISTY
SM243



--- On Sat, 3/13/10, Jean-Luc jlm@... wrote:


From: Jean-Luc jlm@...
Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor
To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
Date: Saturday, March 13, 2010, 12:02 PM






I have exactly the same configuration as you (SM316)
With a new turbo, boat cleaned, injectors cleaned etc etc ...
On the best sea that you can imagine I can retch 2850 rpm and a spead
of 8.25 knds
AND THAT IS NOT ENOUGH !! the power of the TMD22 is at this point
around then 40 HP !!
!!
Conclusion : the seize of the autoprop is too big !

What you can do :

1. put a smaller prop (or re-pitch the autoprop)

2. Increase the power (one YOUR risk) of the engine by changing the
injection .... see my post (Bosch pump) it 10 minutes work !!

3. buy a AMEL 54 :-)

jlm
CottonBay sm316



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




Re: [Amel] Propellor

karkauai
 

Thank you again Jean-Luc.  Very interesting reading.  I'll let you know what I decide on after I have a Volvo service mechanic look at the engine one more time.
I am currently in St. Maarten in the lesser Antilles and will be going north thru the Virgins and Bahamas to the Chesapeake by June 1.  Probably won't get to the Med until after I go thru the Panama Canal and do the Pacific for a few years.
Again, thank you for your interest and help.
Kent
KRISTY
SM 243

--- On Sun, 3/14/10, Jean-Luc <jlm@...> wrote:


From: Jean-Luc <jlm@...>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Sunday, March 14, 2010, 12:33 PM


 



The principle of the injection pump :
http://www.landrove rfaq.com/ download/ file.php? id=293&sid= 91cbea82e8cefc8&#92;
b18eb0f36efecdc39& mode=view
The Bosch book in English : http://www.htsuk. plus.com/ BOSCH_VE_ PUMPS.pdf

1 - If you have air (turbo ok) and gas oil (injection pump ok) you must
have power
2 - My opinion and only mein is that the engine (tmd22) is not in
accordance with my propeller.

To solve MY problem without to pay to much I increase only a very little
bit the power (if you put too much power the cooling system is not
sufficient we have a tmd and not a TAMD),
If you have a engineer culture you can do that by your self if not find
a VERY good mechanical (like one for truck, not necessarily a VOLVO
guy).

Read attached files it will help you to understand your engine,
Hoping that can help you,
are you in the Med area ?
jluc

CB SM316

____________ _________ _________ _________ _____
--- In amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com, Kent Robertson <karkauai@.. .>
wrote:

Merci, Jean-Luc,
I already had the injectors and pump removed and sent to Volvo service
center for inspection, cleaning, and adjustment. No change in
performance was noted. After repitching the fixed prop I was able to
get 2850rpms, but only 7.5 kts. After only a month I am now only able
to get 2650 rpm with the same prop. KRISTY is on the hard in St.
Maarten getting a new bottom paint job. I'll be interested to see if I
can again get 2850 with the bottom and the prop cleaned. If it still
max's at 2650 I have to assume that I still have a problem with the
Volvo. I plan to find a Volvo service center on the Chesapeake and have
them evaluate the engine one more time anyway. If I'm back to 2850,
I'll have the autoprop repitched to allow 3000 rpm.

I'm not really clear on your post about "Increase the power (one YOUR
risk) of the engine by changing the injection". I looked at the link
but my French is so bad that it wasn't much help. Have you altered the
injection pump to feed more fuel to the engine to gain more power? At
what "risk"?

Merci, again,
Kent
KRISTY
SM243



--- On Sat, 3/13/10, Jean-Luc jlm@... wrote:


From: Jean-Luc jlm@...
Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor
To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
Date: Saturday, March 13, 2010, 12:02 PM






I have exactly the same configuration as you (SM316)
With a new turbo, boat cleaned, injectors cleaned etc etc ...
On the best sea that you can imagine I can retch 2850 rpm and a spead
of 8.25 knds
AND THAT IS NOT ENOUGH !! the power of the TMD22 is at this point
around then 40 HP !!
!!
Conclusion : the seize of the autoprop is too big !

What you can do :

1. put a smaller prop (or re-pitch the autoprop)

2. Increase the power (one YOUR risk) of the engine by changing the
injection .... see my post (Bosch pump) it 10 minutes work !!

3. buy a AMEL 54 :-)

jlm
CottonBay sm316



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]









[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Re: Autoprop Bearing Replacement

Mike Ondra
 

Gary,



The Autoprop went back together quite easily. As you noted, the bearing
races are hardened steel, not stainless, and are a fairly loose fit in the
recess. In conversing with AB Marine, the Autoprop dealer, they did not
mention your approach to breaking the race loose, nor that the fit was loose
in the hub, hence my more complex approach.

The beauty of the ¼-28 treaded holes through the hub is the next time the
races can be easily popped using the ¼-28 wedge bolts that lock the blade in
place. I do not recognize there being a “sealed cavity” in the prop as the
nose cone is not water tight.



The picture you have posted shows a destroyed race and bearing. Ours, after
about 1500 hours showed little wear, just a bit of chatter as the bearing
was turned, a roughness if you will, not very visible, but not entirely
comforting either. May not have had to replace them, but we we’re already
pretty far along in the process so went ahead with it. The reason to start
the project was occasional vibration while under power, and then the
noticeable wobble of the blades when examined on haul-out. We didn’t
initially realize that the wobble could have been taken out by simply
loosening the wedge bolt, tightening the retaining cap, and retightening the
wedge bolt. Knowing what I know now I would have simply done the adjustment
and rechecked in another 500 hours.



Mike

Aletes SM #240

_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of amelliahona
Sent: Saturday, March 13, 2010 12:06 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel] Re: Autoprop Bearing Replacement





Mike:

As you have found, the removal of the hardened steel bearing races
is difficult . I don't believe these are stainless steel as stainless is too

soft for bearing races. Did you perhaps see the series of photos
that I posted in the photos section of this forum entitled "Autoprop
Service and Overhaul"? Also, I posted in the files section a number
of critical notes and hints on performing the overhaul including
thoughts on how to remove the races.

In that photo file I posted some photos with descriptions about how
to remove the races. These races are not a precision fit or interference
fit in their recesses. They are a LOOSE FIT but are usually held in place
by dirt, grime and old hard grease. All you need to do, is to get the
race rotating in its recess and you can do that by grinding a recess
into the steel race, then using a punch at an angle to get the race
rotating in its recess until it is somewhat loose, then tapping on the
back side of the hub and the race will fall out.

Did I understand it correctly that you drilled a hole through the hub
into the race recess? If so, how did you then plug that hole to
prevent ingress of sea water into the sealed cavity?

Could you also inform us about the condition of the bearings, seals,
and races that you found upon disassembly and the approximate
number of engine hours at the time of prop overhaul.

All the best,

Gary Silver
Amel SM #335

--- In amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, "mike_ondra" <mdondra@...> wrote:

Haven't seen many postings on Autoprop bearing replacement. We are in
process now. The kit from AB Marine in Rhode Island was $750 for the
bearings and races, a bit salty. The blades had a bit a wobble after several
thousand hours of use, hence the decision to replace the bearings.

Following the instructions, the prop came apart quite easily until the
last step, removal of the inner lower track, the stainless bearing race
inset into the hub. No holes from the back to punch it out, no surfaces to
pry against. The instructions mentions several versions of the hub but no
clues as to how to extract, other than to contact Autoprop dealer for
further instructions.

Their suggestion to superglue stuff to the stainless race seemed dubious.
Second suggestion was to drill through the stainless and slightly into the
brass of the hub and thread the stainless to receive a bolt. The bolt would
be turned into the stainless, push against the brass and pop the race. This
was tried and succeeded only in stripping the perhaps too small bolt. A
larger bolt may have worked as it would have caulk the thicker portion of
the race and provided more thread surface.

Ultimately we drilled and tapped all the way through the hub. Then turned
a bolt through the brass from the inside just short of the stainless. Then a
bolt through the stainless snug to the bolt in the brass. Then turned the
bolt in the brass until the race popped out. All three came out fairly
easily with this approach.

We now begin the reassembly.

Note: The installation instructions provide a procedure for simply
adjusting/tightening the bearings should they be loose and cause vibration
or wobble. This would be the proper fix to try before spending the time and
money for a full bearing replacement. Scanned bearing adjustment
instructions posted with photos.

Photos under Aletes SM#240

Mike


Re: Downwind Sailing

Dave_Benjamin
 

Kent,

We use the twin poles for downwind sailing. We pole the genoa to one side and use the spin halyard to raise one of the balooners in the other groove. When we cross the Pacific we'll likely have both nylon sails on the furler. I would like to build another headsail that can be flown from a Spectra stay and we'll just use soft hanks on the sail. Works on VOR 70's so it should be easy enough.

Twins are kind of "old school" but they work really well downwind and on deep angles. For reaching an assym on a Colligo furler would be nice.

Try to keep the main off the rigging, especially if you have full battens, unless you like to support sailmakers (not all bad from my perspective;-)

Downwind you can try the twins without the main or just leave it up reefed. I like to try and not disturb the flow of air to the twins.

For short downwind trips you can pole out the genoa opposite the main and run wing on wing. I'm not sure about the caveat you heard about using one pole by itself. Maybe there is some concern about side loading the mast???? I can't think of a reason to limit use of a single reaching strut/pole combo but maybe there is something I'm missing. Maybe you could check with the factory or Joel Potter?

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Kent Robertson" <karkauai@...> wrote:

Hi, again, all,
I've got a ? about what you do on very broad reaches and downwind when you only have a few hours of sailing on that angle. It seems I've done very little downwind work with "Kristy" until now, so am just discovering some things I haven't encountered until now. When I'm on a very broad reach,the mainsail rests on the aft shrouds of the main mast. Same true if I'm running downwind. I'm noticing a discoloration of the main where it rests on the shroud, and don't want to damage my sail. In a 15+ kt wind I can make fair progress with main and mizzen wing on wing, but was wondering if you use one of the downwind poles to hold out the Jenny? Seems like I read somewhere that you shouldn't use one pole only, but can't find it now and can't think of a good reason not to. Using both poles and the double headsail rig seems like a lot of work to sail for just a few hours.

So my questions are:
Do you worry about the main resting on the shroud when going downwind?
What do you do when your destination is directly downwind for 5-6 hrs of sailing? Do you sail on a broad reach and jibe, or pole out the Jenny, or something else?

Sounds pretty elementary, I know...but then I'm still in Elementary School.
Thanks,
Kent
"Kristy" SM243


Re: Climma Air Conditioner Capacitors

sy.ashia <sy.ashia@...>
 

Hi all,
I have to replace a 10µF and a 40µF capacitor, because they failed. I have seen that there is a resistor between the poles on the 40µF capicitor, but I don't know its size. Becuase I am not on the boat, I can not measure it or look at the coloured rings.
Has anybody the right values for this resistor?

Armin
SY ASHIA, SM2k, #357

--- In amelyachtowners@..., amelliahona <no_reply@...> wrote:

Hi all:

Each Climma Air Conditioner of the vintage of my boat (SM Hull # 335) has
five capacitors as follows:

1 each: 40 microFarads 420 volts to 470 volts (Biggest physical size)

1 each: 10 microFarads 420 volts to 470 volts (Medium size)

2 each: 2 microFarads 450 volts, 50 Hertz (small size)

1 each: 3.15 microFarads 450 volt, 50 Hertz (small size)

The capacitors that failed on my boat (and which I believe are the
run capacitors for the compressor motors) were the 10 microFarad
capacitors. The original ones were cylindrical and measured
3 inches long by 1 and 3/8 inches in diameter and were in a plastic
casing. They had 5/8 inch long spade connectors.

The replacement ones I found were ovoid, in a metal casing,
were larger physically and rated at 600 volts. None of those have
failed but were large enough that they would not fit inside the control
box that contained all the other electronic components. I attached
them to the outside of the box and insulated the connectors so
nobody would take a large shock if they shorted across the terminals.

If you are going to buy spares I would go for the 10 microFarad ones
and get them with spade connectors to minimize re-wiring.

Gary Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM #335
Delivery date July 1, 2001


Re: [Amel] Propellor

jlm@jlmertz.fr
 

The principle of the injection pump :
http://www.landroverfaq.com/download/file.php?id=293&sid=91cbea82e8cefc8\;
b18eb0f36efecdc39&mode=view
The Bosch book in English : http://www.htsuk.plus.com/BOSCH_VE_PUMPS.pdf

1 - If you have air (turbo ok) and gas oil (injection pump ok) you must
have power
2 - My opinion and only mein is that the engine (tmd22) is not in
accordance with my propeller.

To solve MY problem without to pay to much I increase only a very little
bit the power (if you put too much power the cooling system is not
sufficient we have a tmd and not a TAMD),
If you have a engineer culture you can do that by your self if not find
a VERY good mechanical (like one for truck, not necessarily a VOLVO
guy).

Read attached files it will help you to understand your engine,
Hoping that can help you,
are you in the Med area ?
jluc

CB SM316



____________________________________________
--- In amelyachtowners@..., Kent Robertson <karkauai@...>
wrote:

Merci, Jean-Luc,
I already had the injectors and pump removed and sent to Volvo service
center for inspection, cleaning, and adjustment. No change in
performance was noted. After repitching the fixed prop I was able to
get 2850rpms, but only 7.5 kts. After only a month I am now only able
to get 2650 rpm with the same prop. KRISTY is on the hard in St.
Maarten getting a new bottom paint job. I'll be interested to see if I
can again get 2850 with the bottom and the prop cleaned. If it still
max's at 2650 I have to assume that I still have a problem with the
Volvo. I plan to find a Volvo service center on the Chesapeake and have
them evaluate the engine one more time anyway. If I'm back to 2850,
I'll have the autoprop repitched to allow 3000 rpm.

I'm not really clear on your post about "Increase the power (one YOUR
risk) of the engine by changing the injection". I looked at the link
but my French is so bad that it wasn't much help. Have you altered the
injection pump to feed more fuel to the engine to gain more power? At
what "risk"?

Merci, again,
Kent
KRISTY
SM243



--- On Sat, 3/13/10, Jean-Luc jlm@... wrote:


From: Jean-Luc jlm@...
Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Saturday, March 13, 2010, 12:02 PM






I have exactly the same configuration as you (SM316)
With a new turbo, boat cleaned, injectors cleaned etc etc ...
On the best sea that you can imagine I can retch 2850 rpm and a spead
of 8.25 knds
AND THAT IS NOT ENOUGH !! the power of the TMD22 is at this point
around then 40 HP !!
!!
Conclusion : the seize of the autoprop is too big !

What you can do :

1. put a smaller prop (or re-pitch the autoprop)

2. Increase the power (one YOUR risk) of the engine by changing the
injection .... see my post (Bosch pump) it 10 minutes work !!

3. buy a AMEL 54 :-)

jlm
CottonBay sm316





Re: [Amel] Propellor

karkauai
 

Merci, Jean-Luc,
I already had the injectors and pump removed and sent to Volvo service center for inspection, cleaning, and adjustment.  No change in performance was noted.  After repitching the fixed prop I was able to get 2850rpms, but only 7.5 kts.  After only a month I am now only able to get 2650 rpm with the same prop.  KRISTY is on the hard in St. Maarten getting a new bottom paint job.  I'll be interested to see if I can again get 2850 with the bottom and the prop cleaned.  If it still max's at 2650 I have to assume that I still have a problem with the Volvo.  I plan to find a Volvo service center on the Chesapeake and have them evaluate the engine one more time anyway.  If I'm back to 2850, I'll have the autoprop repitched to allow 3000 rpm.
 
I'm not really clear on your post about "Increase the power (one YOUR risk) of the engine by changing the injection".  I looked at the link  but my French is so bad that it wasn't much help.  Have you altered the injection pump to feed more fuel to the engine to gain more power?  At what "risk"?
 
Merci, again,
Kent
KRISTY
SM243

--- On Sat, 3/13/10, Jean-Luc <jlm@...> wrote:


From: Jean-Luc <jlm@...>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Saturday, March 13, 2010, 12:02 PM


 



I have exactly the same configuration as you (SM316)
With a new turbo, boat cleaned, injectors cleaned etc etc ...
On the best sea that you can imagine I can retch 2850 rpm and a spead
of 8.25 knds
AND THAT IS NOT ENOUGH !! the power of the TMD22 is at this point
around then 40 HP !!
!!
Conclusion : the seize of the autoprop is too big !

What you can do :

1. put a smaller prop (or re-pitch the autoprop)

2. Increase the power (one YOUR risk) of the engine by changing the
injection .... see my post (Bosch pump) it 10 minutes work !!

3. buy a AMEL 54 :-)

jlm
CottonBay sm316



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Propellor

jlm@jlmertz.fr
 

I have exactly the same configuration as you (SM316)
With a new turbo, boat cleaned, injectors cleaned etc etc ...
On the best sea that you can imagine I can retch 2850 rpm and a spead
of 8.25 knds
AND THAT IS NOT ENOUGH !! the power of the TMD22 is at this point
around then 40 HP !!
!!
Conclusion : the seize of the autoprop is too big !

What you can do :

1. put a smaller prop (or re-pitch the autoprop)

2. Increase the power (one YOUR risk) of the engine by changing the
injection .... see my post (Bosch pump) it 10 minutes work !!

3. buy a AMEL 54 :-)


jlm
CottonBay sm316



--- In amelyachtowners@..., Kent Robertson <karkauai@...>
wrote:

Hi, Gary,
The turbo housing had collected a lot of carbon, and I guess moisture
in the carbon deteriorated the inside of the turbo. It had pitted the
area where the waste gate closes against the housing to the point that
no seal was possible in the closed position. I don't know what happened
when the turbo was replaced by the first owner.

Initially I was of the impression that I should run the Volvo under
load at ~3500 rpm for 15 min or so twice a day when motoring a lot.
Since then I have been told by Amel that 3000 would be maximum expected
with the Volvo, and Laurent Colonna at Amel Caraibes said that 2850
would be adequate to minimize carbon buildup.

Does anyone have a SM with the Volvo TMD and an Autoprop? If so, can
you tell me what kind of rpm you are able to get when the prop's clean?
Can you tell me the serial number on the prop so that I can have
Autoprop compare it to the one on my boat? Thanks.

Kent
KRISTY
SM 243





Re: [Amel] Propellor

karkauai
 

Hi, Gary,
The turbo housing had collected a lot of carbon, and I guess moisture in the carbon deteriorated the inside of the turbo.  It had pitted the area where the waste gate closes against the housing to the point that no seal was possible in the closed position.  I don't know what happened when the turbo was replaced by the first owner.
 
Initially I was of the impression that I should run the Volvo under load at ~3500 rpm for 15 min or so twice a day when motoring a lot.  Since then I have been told by Amel that 3000 would be maximum expected with the Volvo, and Laurent Colonna at Amel Caraibes said that 2850 would be adequate to minimize carbon buildup.
 
Does anyone have a SM with the Volvo TMD and an Autoprop?  If so, can you tell me what kind of rpm you are able to get when the prop's clean?  Can you tell me the serial number on the prop so that I can have Autoprop compare it to the one on my boat?  Thanks.
 
Kent
KRISTY
SM 243



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Deck Flood lights

Martin <yachtcaduceus@...>
 

Thanks for your reply. Can you give me any info as to what replacement bulbs you found satisfactory and the manufacture and source?
Martin Caduceus 54 #56

--- In amelyachtowners@..., john martin <symoondog@...> wrote:


Martin, you have the right ideal. I replaced all the halogen bulbs in the cabin and had to retrofit some of them, much cheaper and faster then buying a complete new led fixture. I like your ideal of solar panels on the stern arch, but won't you get a shadow from the SSB antennae?. I have 2- 130 watt solars on the aft cabin and they are great. If I had 2 more I'd only use the generator to make hot water. If I put the arch on I'd eliminate the antenna and the SSB.With today's new technology with skype, cell phones, satellite phone, etc.,I belive their demise is certain. John "Moon Dog" SM248



To: amelyachtowners@...
From: yachtcaduceus@...
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2010 13:34:38 +0000
Subject: [Amel] Deck Flood lights





Our Amel 54 is fitted with four deck floods, one in the cockpit, one for the foredeck and two on the main spreaders. They are all 28v 50w Halogen sealed beams.

We are in the process of fitting a stern arch to carry solar panels and the dinghy. Into this are being set two LED floods. These LED's are available in a variety of beam angles, and warmths, and are designed for the purpose. Similar floods are being fitted to the latest Oysters as spreader flood lights; we are having the work done at Fox's in Ipswich UK. They are is involved in fitting out Oyster yachts and I am assured that the LED floods are fit for purpose.

I am considering having some adapters made, modeled on the flange of the existing bulb that acts as the retainer in the housing that carries the bulb; machined out of some form of rigid nylon sheet, or similar. This adapter would then be used as a mount for the LED bulb without having to replace the existing housings. If successful the saving in power consumption would be considerable and make it much more practical to leave the lights on for more extended periods.

Rather than completely re-invent the wheel, does anyone have experience of this?

Regards,

Martin Bevan
Amel 54 #56 - Caduceus





_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsoft's powerful SPAM protection.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/210850552/direct/01/



Re: [Amel] Deck Flood lights

john martin <symoondog@...>
 

Martin, you have the right ideal. I replaced all the halogen bulbs in the cabin and had to retrofit some of them, much cheaper and faster then buying a complete new led fixture. I like your ideal of solar panels on the stern arch, but won't you get a shadow from the SSB antennae?. I have 2- 130 watt solars on the aft cabin and they are great. If I had 2 more I'd only use the generator to make hot water. If I put the arch on I'd eliminate the antenna and the SSB.With today's new technology with skype, cell phones, satellite phone, etc.,I belive their demise is certain. John "Moon Dog" SM248



To: amelyachtowners@...
From: yachtcaduceus@...
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2010 13:34:38 +0000
Subject: [Amel] Deck Flood lights





Our Amel 54 is fitted with four deck floods, one in the cockpit, one for the foredeck and two on the main spreaders. They are all 28v 50w Halogen sealed beams.

We are in the process of fitting a stern arch to carry solar panels and the dinghy. Into this are being set two LED floods. These LED's are available in a variety of beam angles, and warmths, and are designed for the purpose. Similar floods are being fitted to the latest Oysters as spreader flood lights; we are having the work done at Fox's in Ipswich UK. They are is involved in fitting out Oyster yachts and I am assured that the LED floods are fit for purpose.

I am considering having some adapters made, modeled on the flange of the existing bulb that acts as the retainer in the housing that carries the bulb; machined out of some form of rigid nylon sheet, or similar. This adapter would then be used as a mount for the LED bulb without having to replace the existing housings. If successful the saving in power consumption would be considerable and make it much more practical to leave the lights on for more extended periods.

Rather than completely re-invent the wheel, does anyone have experience of this?

Regards,

Martin Bevan
Amel 54 #56 - Caduceus





_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsofts powerful SPAM protection.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/210850552/direct/01/


Deck Flood lights

Martin <yachtcaduceus@...>
 

Our Amel 54 is fitted with four deck floods, one in the cockpit, one for the foredeck and two on the main spreaders. They are all 28v 50w Halogen sealed beams.

We are in the process of fitting a stern arch to carry solar panels and the dinghy. Into this are being set two LED floods. These LED's are available in a variety of beam angles, and warmths, and are designed for the purpose. Similar floods are being fitted to the latest Oysters as spreader flood lights; we are having the work done at Fox's in Ipswich UK. They are is involved in fitting out Oyster yachts and I am assured that the LED floods are fit for purpose.

I am considering having some adapters made, modeled on the flange of the existing bulb that acts as the retainer in the housing that carries the bulb; machined out of some form of rigid nylon sheet, or similar. This adapter would then be used as a mount for the LED bulb without having to replace the existing housings. If successful the saving in power consumption would be considerable and make it much more practical to leave the lights on for more extended periods.

Rather than completely re-invent the wheel, does anyone have experience of this?

Regards,

Martin Bevan
Amel 54 #56 - Caduceus


Anchor Chain - Grade

Martin <yachtcaduceus@...>
 

We have a second windlass on our Amel 54 which was originally fitted with 5m of chain, and I believe, 100m of rope and a Delta anchor. I assume that Amel configured it this way to be used as a kedge. It does mean that if you deploy it, and I have yet to use it, that it will only stow if you open the chain locker and manually feed the rope back down. This also involves emptying the sail locker, hence why using this anchor in its original format is not a popular solution. I have a Fortress with chain and rope as a kedge and this is stowed in the lazarette.

I have replaced the Delta with a Spade anchor to give me two first rate bow anchors and am considering replacing the rode with 50m of chain and 50m rope.

I understand from Amel that the chain fitted by them is 10mm ISO galvanised which I assume matches the Lemar winches (although Lemar quote this as being 9.5mm) but they have not specified the grade. I have been offered suitable chain in Grade 30 but see also that Grade 40 is offered by other suppliers.

I would be grateful for opinions and experiences on the various aspects of this.

Regards

Martin Bevan
Amel 54 #56 - Caduceus


The art of hoving to and battery replacement

hollambyuk <annejohnholl@...>
 

There was a series of posts in Jan/Feb 2010 giving advice on new batteries which were all under the heading "The art of of hoving to".
This means that anyone using the search box to research new batteries will never find any of those posts.
This website has been running for many years and there is a huge amount of information that can be recovered through the search box but only if the topic is included in the Subject box when posting.
It is also very important to include your model number in posts so that we all know whether your post is relevant to our model.
I replaced my original batteries after seven years with ordinary lead acid ones made by a subsidiary of Exide thus reducing the cost by a large amount especially as the battery dealer was happy to give a big discount as he normally gets to sell one battery to each buyer!
I find them perfectly satisfactory with two caveats.The first is that the battery monitor needs to be given the proper Puekerts Number to give correct readings and I found it impossible to get one from the vendor or manufacturer.
This is not all that important provided that you keep an eye on the voltage and never go below 24 volts before topping up the charge until the charge rate falls to say 10 amps at which point more charging is uneconomical unless using shore power. The theory is that only the top 25% of the batteries capacity is usable without shortening the battery life.

Best wishes from Malta, Anne and John SM 319


Bowthruster

hollambyuk <annejohnholl@...>
 

Hello Ivar, I have a problem with my unit not going all the way up
because like you, I caught a line in the bottom section whilst raising it and I do not know how to correct it. I therefore put bowthruster on the search box and got back to your post 2271 dated June 13 2006 but do not understand it and cannot find the posts that you refer as giving advice. There are two small sensors?? wired into a control box and mine were held in place with metal strips which broke soon after I got the boat ten years ago and I resecured them with cable tiers.
Can you please tell me more and/or post photos so I can see what needs to be done?
Best wishes from Malta, John SM319