Date   

Genoa electric furler plans

phil.berghmans <no_reply@...>
 

hello,

Does somebody have a plan of the electric furler unit off a santorin or SM i think they are the same.Some screws under the clutch have come undone and present a real danger>im now in las palmas and have to take the unit apart to put the screws back in place>Does anyone have any plans or pictures off this job>I read that these screws come loose more ofthen>Anyone have any experiance i tried to loosen the screws on top off the foot off the furler (grey alumimium part above the motor)result 1 screw out and 2 wasted and stuck inside.thats not a good averidge i think.So i need help!!! please send the plans/photos
or tips to my email adress

phil on Miles ahead santorin 101

ps.i mailed amel for a copy off the plans off the furler but got no respons


where is what in the Santorin

Attilio Siviero <attilio.siviero@...>
 

Hi everybody,
at the link:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/files/SM%20owners%20manual%20in%20Italian/
I have uploaded a Microsoft Word file where I put a map of the Santorin with all the labels for drawers, lockers, alla places where you put, and forget, your things. And a table where you can write what is where.
The problem is: it is in Italian, but it is not so difficult to translate it:
Cassetto=drawer
Gavone, gavone esterno=locker, external locker
Vano, Antro, Varie=place, room, various
You can translate it!
We made it because we often forget our things in the boat.
We have printed it 2 sides and plasticized, and hanged somewhere inside the boat
Hotr you can appreciateit.
Regards
Maria&Attilio Amel Santorin#84 "Sisila"


New file uploaded to amelyachtowners

amelyachtowners@...
 

Hello,

This email message is a notification to let you know that
a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the amelyachtowners
group.

File : /Revelation SM390/LA3 L10 002 UK 0603 Compact.pdf
Uploaded by : drew_gaffney <drew.gaffney@...>
Description : Thompson_Brandt L10 Wash_Dry Repair Manual

You can access this file at the URL:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/files/Revelation%20SM390/LA3%20L10%20002%20UK%200603%20Compact.pdf

To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit:
http://help.yahoo.com/l/us/yahoo/groups/original/members/forms/general.htmlfiles

Regards,

drew_gaffney <drew.gaffney@...>


Genoa Furling System

paraic44 <paraic44@...>
 

We plan to replace our standing rigging on Amel SM hull No. 228 over the Easter weekend. Our rigger has requested details of the strip-down and reassembly procedure for the furler. Has anyone a copy of the procedure or knowledge of where it might be obtained ?.

We would appreciate your assistance.

Myra & Paraic
SV Saol Eile


Re: Flat copper cable in the greywater bilge (Sm2000)

svbebe <yahoogroups@...>
 

Lorenzo,

Your question: "...the nut on the bottom of the bilge takes only copper wire or even the keel?"
Answer: The 30mm nut attaches the ground strap to the keel.

Your question: "I can unscrew it without consequence?"
Answer: Yes, no problem in removing

Your question: "And is this copper cable the link between all ground cables to sacrificial anodes on rudder?
Answer: Yes, all Yellow/Green ground wires lead to the top of the ground cable in the bilge...AND... one wire leads from the top of the ground connection to the sacrificial anodes on rudder.

The original ground cable was made of flat woven copper mesh. I could not find an exact replacement, so replaced it with 1/8" (4mm) thick copper that was 2" wide (5cm).

We will be in Italy in about 2 years...hopefully we can meet then.

Best,

Bill
s/v BeBe, SM2, #387
Currently Malaysia

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "ferruccilorenzo" <ferruccilorenzo@...> wrote:






Dear Bill, thank You very very much!! You were very kind, remember when you switch from Italy to write, I will welcome you!


Concerning the issue, the nut on the bottom of the bilge takes only
copper wire or even the keel? I can unscrew it without consequence?
And is this copper cable the link between all ground cables to sacrificial anodes on rudder?


Thanks again, Lorenzo (SM2 # 420)
Now in Italy (500 ft from home) :)

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "svbebe" <yahoogroups@> wrote:

The copper strap is the boat's ground system. You need to replace it.

See the photos and description in the photo section of this website: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/138287824/pic/list

Best,

Bill
s/v BeBe, SM2, #387
Currently Malaysia

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "ferruccilorenzo" <ferruccilorenzo@> wrote:

Cleaning the bilge water gray today I found this cable copper plate that appears between the broken bolt on the bottom of the bilge and the other piece that goes on top. I have no idea of what it is, you know what? This may be due to the fact that he turned on the indicator "masses -" indicating a dispersal?

SM2000 No. 420


Thank you very much, sorry 4 my bad English, I'm italian!


Re: Flat copper cable in the greywater bilge (Sm2000)

ferruccilorenzo <ferruccilorenzo@...>
 

Dear Bill, thank You very very much!! You were very kind, remember when you switch from Italy to write, I will welcome you!


Concerning the issue, the nut on the bottom of the bilge takes only
copper wire or even the keel? I can unscrew it without consequence?
And is this copper cable the link between all ground cables to sacrificial anodes on rudder?


Thanks again, Lorenzo (SM2 # 420)
Now in Italy (500 ft from home) :)

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "svbebe" <yahoogroups@...> wrote:

The copper strap is the boat's ground system. You need to replace it.

See the photos and description in the photo section of this website: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/138287824/pic/list

Best,

Bill
s/v BeBe, SM2, #387
Currently Malaysia

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "ferruccilorenzo" <ferruccilorenzo@> wrote:

Cleaning the bilge water gray today I found this cable copper plate that appears between the broken bolt on the bottom of the bilge and the other piece that goes on top. I have no idea of what it is, you know what? This may be due to the fact that he turned on the indicator "masses -" indicating a dispersal?

SM2000 No. 420


Thank you very much, sorry 4 my bad English, I'm italian!


Lofrans Tigres Windlass Gypsy_Chain Compatibility Question

drew_gaffney <drew.gaffney@...>
 

Our gypsy is worn and needs to be replaced. Our chain, OEM from Amel on SM390, measures exactly 10mm by calipers. In looking at the Lofrans parts catalog, there are a number of choices: 3/8" DIN 766, Ø 10-3/8"HT/P30 and 3/8HT s/8PC, corresponding to Part # 276f, 276e, or 276h, respectively. There are actually 7 choices, but these seem to be closest to 10mm/3/8". Does anyone know which chain Amel was placing in their 2003 SM's?
Thanks,
Drew
Revelation SM390
Lying Opua NZ


New file uploaded to amelyachtowners

amelyachtowners@...
 

Hello,

This email message is a notification to let you know that
a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the amelyachtowners
group.

File : /Revelation SM390/LA3P L10 006 0404 Rev.pdf
Uploaded by : drew_gaffney <drew.gaffney@...>
Description : Thomson_Brandt L10 Wash_Dry manual

You can access this file at the URL:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/files/Revelation%20SM390/LA3P%20L10%20006%200404%20Rev.pdf

To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit:
http://help.yahoo.com/l/us/yahoo/groups/original/members/forms/general.htmlfiles

Regards,

drew_gaffney <drew.gaffney@...>


Re: Flat copper cable in the greywater bilge (Sm2000)

svbebe <yahoogroups@...>
 

The copper strap is the boat's ground system. You need to replace it.

See the photos and description in the photo section of this website: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/138287824/pic/list

Best,

Bill
s/v BeBe, SM2, #387
Currently Malaysia

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "ferruccilorenzo" <ferruccilorenzo@...> wrote:

Cleaning the bilge water gray today I found this cable copper plate that appears between the broken bolt on the bottom of the bilge and the other piece that goes on top. I have no idea of what it is, you know what? This may be due to the fact that he turned on the indicator "masses -" indicating a dispersal?

SM2000 No. 420


Thank you very much, sorry 4 my bad English, I'm italian!


Flat copper cable in the greywater bilge (Sm2000)

ferruccilorenzo <ferruccilorenzo@...>
 

Cleaning the bilge water gray today I found this cable copper plate that appears between the broken bolt on the bottom of the bilge and the other piece that goes on top. I have no idea of what it is, you know what? This may be due to the fact that he turned on the indicator "masses -" indicating a dispersal?

SM2000 No. 420


Thank you very much, sorry 4 my bad English, I'm italian!


Re: [Amel] Re: Autoprop Bearing Replacement

richard03801@...
 

Mike we have the same prop on our boat. SM 209 with no issues.
Happy sailing
Richard SM 209
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

-----Original Message-----
From: "Mike Ondra" <mdondra@...>
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2010 07:33:54
To: <amelyachtowners@...>
Subject: RE: [Amel] Re: Autoprop Bearing Replacement

Gary,

Perhaps there are different configurations of the Autoprop. Ours has
bearings and bearing race exposed to sea water. The only seals we have to
deal with are those on the prop shaft. Picture of reassembled prop included
in Aletes photos folder.

Mike

Aletes SM#240

_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of amelliahona
Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2010 8:23 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel] Re: Autoprop Bearing Replacement





Mike:

Thanks for the update on your findings. I am glad that your seals held up
better than mine and you had minimal damage. I believe that the early
failure of my bearings was due to power washing the prop upon haul out,
thus forcing water and debris past the lip seals that seal the bearing
cavity
and my waiting until I returned to the boat six months later (after
hurricane
season) and at that point lubing the prop bearings. The Autoprop literature
clearly states that the prop should be lubed just after haul out. In my
case I did not follow those instructions and that failure combined with
the power washing, I believe, caused my premature failures.

So I recommend to all members:

1. DO NOT LET ANYONE POWER WASH YOUR AUTOPROP.
2. DO LUBE THE BEARINGS IMMEDIATELY UPON HAUL OUT.

In my case I lube then upon haul out and again touch them up with
lube immediately before splashing the boat after it has been on the
hard.

On the water tight issue: The bearing race recess forms a water water
tight compartment with the lip seal that is pressed into the groove
in the blade. The bearings reside in this water proof cavity. With a
hole in the hub that penetrates from the hub center bolt retention
hole into the bearing race groove you have a path for water ingress
into the bearing/grease/cavity of the prop. Water will be slung by
centrifugal force from the prop hub retention bolt hole, through
the newly drilled holes and into the race groove/race/bearing/grease
cavity unless you seal those holes with something. As you correctly
point out, the hub center cavity is NOT sealed to sea water by the red cap.

All the best,

Gary
Amel SM #335
"Liahona"

--- In amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, "Mike Ondra" <mdondra@...> wrote:

" I do not recognize there being a "sealed cavity" in the prop as the
nose cone is not water tight."

Mike


[Amel] Re: Autoprop Bearing Replacement

svbebe <yahoogroups@...>
 

Gary and Mike,

Yes there are some differences...Bruntons changed bearing types sometime around 2002.

When Mike posted his method of bearing removal, I emailed a photo of Mike's prop to a guy at Brutons and asked for his comments on Mike's method. BTW, I did not reveal the source of the photo. I did not receive any direct comments about Mike's method.

The return email stated, "Your (BeBe's) autoprop uses a different bearing system...the picture you attached shows the old style ball bearing system with open bearing. Your propeller uses a seal and taper roller bearing together with a thrust race, which are much easier to remove."

I am not sure that this addresses Gary's question and possibly brings up more questions.

Best,

Bill
s/v BeBe, SM2, #387
Currently Malasia

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Mike Ondra" <mdondra@...> wrote:

Gary,

Perhaps there are different configurations of the Autoprop. Ours has
bearings and bearing race exposed to sea water. The only seals we have to
deal with are those on the prop shaft. Picture of reassembled prop included
in Aletes photos folder.

Mike

Aletes SM#240

_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of amelliahona
Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2010 8:23 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel] Re: Autoprop Bearing Replacement





Mike:

Thanks for the update on your findings. I am glad that your seals held up
better than mine and you had minimal damage. I believe that the early
failure of my bearings was due to power washing the prop upon haul out,
thus forcing water and debris past the lip seals that seal the bearing
cavity
and my waiting until I returned to the boat six months later (after
hurricane
season) and at that point lubing the prop bearings. The Autoprop literature
clearly states that the prop should be lubed just after haul out. In my
case I did not follow those instructions and that failure combined with
the power washing, I believe, caused my premature failures.

So I recommend to all members:

1. DO NOT LET ANYONE POWER WASH YOUR AUTOPROP.
2. DO LUBE THE BEARINGS IMMEDIATELY UPON HAUL OUT.

In my case I lube then upon haul out and again touch them up with
lube immediately before splashing the boat after it has been on the
hard.

On the water tight issue: The bearing race recess forms a water water
tight compartment with the lip seal that is pressed into the groove
in the blade. The bearings reside in this water proof cavity. With a
hole in the hub that penetrates from the hub center bolt retention
hole into the bearing race groove you have a path for water ingress
into the bearing/grease/cavity of the prop. Water will be slung by
centrifugal force from the prop hub retention bolt hole, through
the newly drilled holes and into the race groove/race/bearing/grease
cavity unless you seal those holes with something. As you correctly
point out, the hub center cavity is NOT sealed to sea water by the red cap.

All the best,

Gary
Amel SM #335
"Liahona"

--- In amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, "Mike Ondra" <mdondra@> wrote:

" I do not recognize there being a "sealed cavity" in the prop as the
nose cone is not water tight."

Mike





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Re: Autoprop Bearing Replacement

Mike Ondra
 

Gary,

Perhaps there are different configurations of the Autoprop. Ours has
bearings and bearing race exposed to sea water. The only seals we have to
deal with are those on the prop shaft. Picture of reassembled prop included
in Aletes photos folder.

Mike

Aletes SM#240

_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of amelliahona
Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2010 8:23 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel] Re: Autoprop Bearing Replacement





Mike:

Thanks for the update on your findings. I am glad that your seals held up
better than mine and you had minimal damage. I believe that the early
failure of my bearings was due to power washing the prop upon haul out,
thus forcing water and debris past the lip seals that seal the bearing
cavity
and my waiting until I returned to the boat six months later (after
hurricane
season) and at that point lubing the prop bearings. The Autoprop literature
clearly states that the prop should be lubed just after haul out. In my
case I did not follow those instructions and that failure combined with
the power washing, I believe, caused my premature failures.

So I recommend to all members:

1. DO NOT LET ANYONE POWER WASH YOUR AUTOPROP.
2. DO LUBE THE BEARINGS IMMEDIATELY UPON HAUL OUT.

In my case I lube then upon haul out and again touch them up with
lube immediately before splashing the boat after it has been on the
hard.

On the water tight issue: The bearing race recess forms a water water
tight compartment with the lip seal that is pressed into the groove
in the blade. The bearings reside in this water proof cavity. With a
hole in the hub that penetrates from the hub center bolt retention
hole into the bearing race groove you have a path for water ingress
into the bearing/grease/cavity of the prop. Water will be slung by
centrifugal force from the prop hub retention bolt hole, through
the newly drilled holes and into the race groove/race/bearing/grease
cavity unless you seal those holes with something. As you correctly
point out, the hub center cavity is NOT sealed to sea water by the red cap.

All the best,

Gary
Amel SM #335
"Liahona"

--- In amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, "Mike Ondra" <mdondra@...> wrote:

" I do not recognize there being a "sealed cavity" in the prop as the
nose cone is not water tight."

Mike


Re: [Amel] Propellor

karkauai
 

Hi, Richard,
I've only done a systematic evaluation of fuel consumption on the trip from Norfolk to Grenada this Fall.  I had the newly repitched fixed prop on the boat.  In different sea conditions I noted 3.5-4.0 liter/hr consumption at 1600, 1800, and 2000 rpm, some of which was motoring and some motorsailing, some heading into the sea and some with light wind astern.  At 2200 rpm the consumption jumped to 5.5-6.0 liters per hour.  I haven't run it faster than that long enough to have a feel for consumption at higher rpm.
 
I do run the engine at maximum rpm (2850 with that prop and a clean hull) for about 15 min every 6 hours.  After burning 3/4 tank of fuel on the way down there was some soot on the port topside aft of the exhaust, but nothing that wouldn't be expected according to a mechanic who was looking at my genset.  When running hard there is no increase in smoke coming from the exhaust that I can see.  Running the Volvo as described, there is virtually no oil consumption.  I haven't had to add oil except when changing oil and filters since I've owned her.
 
Whaddya think?
Kent
KRISTY
SM243


Re: [Amel] Fuel burn rate

richard03801@...
 

Thanks Danny, on our last Atlantic crossing motor sailing at a1400 our speed w/10 kts wind was 7.5 burn rate 1.5 l/hr. At 2200 8/l/hr
Average bottom some build up. Did not push to turbo.
Lube oil needed after or during crossing zero. We use synthetic oil designed for diesel as lube oil.
Thanks again.
Richard on SM 209
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

-----Original Message-----
From: Danny SIMMS <simms@...>
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2010 06:15:06
To: <amelyachtowners@...>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor

Hi Richard, on a previous boat, a 42 foot racer/cruiser I had a volvo 2030 30 hp. At 2000 rpm and 5 knots boat speed the consumption was 1.2 (one point two) litres per hour. At 2500 rpm and 6 knots speed the consumption jumped to 2.2 litres per hour.
regards
Danny SM299 Ocean Pearl

--- On Fri, 19/3/10, richard03801@... <richard03801@...> wrote:


From: richard03801@... <richard03801@...>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Friday, 19 March, 2010, 10:40 AM


 



Hi Kent, I was wondering what kind of fuel consumption are you seeing. And do you often run you TMD at full power and for how long.
Most of us are concerned with our clean burn rate. At sea we often motor sail at around 1500 just to conserve fuel for the long haul.
When you press it at 2800 or so do you see any over heating or black smoke or increase crank case oil consumption?

Be interesting to chat about someday.
Fair winds
Richard SM209
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

-----Original Message-----
From: Kent Robertson <karkauai@yahoo. com>
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 14:22:46
To: <amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor

Thanks, Danny, already been there and done that.  Wish it'd been that simple for me.
Kent

--- On Thu, 3/18/10, Danny SIMMS <simms@.... nz> wrote:


From: Danny SIMMS <simms@.... nz>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor
To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
Date: Thursday, March 18, 2010, 4:52 PM


 



Hi Kent, after discussion with a Volvo tech at St Maarten I corrected the code setting on the tacometer to match the motor and immediately achieved a 300 rpm improvement from 2500 to 2800. There is a recessed button on the back and you scroll through to the correct number for your motor model. Mine was miss set.
Danny and Yvonne SM 299 Ocean Pearl 

--- On Wed, 17/3/10, Kent Robertson <karkauai@yahoo. com> wrote:

From: Kent Robertson <karkauai@yahoo. com>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor
To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
Date: Wednesday, 17 March, 2010, 2:04 AM

 

I will give you a report when it's done...probably in June.
Kent

--- On Tue, 3/16/10, jlm@jlmertz. fr <jlm@jlmertz. fr> wrote:

From: jlm@jlmertz. fr <jlm@jlmertz. fr>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor
To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
Date: Tuesday, March 16, 2010, 4:36 AM

 

Fine, tell me more after this job,
Try to ask him his opinon to increese the power by 1/4 of turn of gas
oil rate,
if possible try that with this guy,
bonne chance
/"tout est possible dans un monde infini"/
jluc
------------ --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- -

Kent Robertson a écrit :


Thank you again Jean-Luc. Very interesting reading. I'll let you
know what I decide on after I have a Volvo service mechanic look at
the engine one more time.
I am currently in St. Maarten in the lesser Antilles and will be going
north thru the Virgins and Bahamas to the Chesapeake by June 1.
Probably won't get to the Med until after I go thru the Panama Canal
and do the Pacific for a few years.
Again, thank you for your interest and help.
Kent
KRISTY
SM 243

--- On Sun, 3/14/10, Jean-Luc <jlm@jlmertz. fr
<mailto:jlm% 40jlmertz. fr>> wrote:

From: Jean-Luc <jlm@jlmertz. fr <mailto:jlm% 40jlmertz. fr>>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor
To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
<mailto:amelyachtow ners%40yahoogrou ps.com>
Date: Sunday, March 14, 2010, 12:33 PM



The principle of the injection pump :
http://www.landrove rfaq.com/ download/ file.php? id=293&sid=
91cbea82e8cefc8&#92;
b18eb0f36efecdc39& mode=view
The Bosch book in English : http://www.htsuk. plus.com/ BOSCH_VE_
PUMPS.pdf

1 - If you have air (turbo ok) and gas oil (injection pump ok) you must
have power
2 - My opinion and only mein is that the engine (tmd22) is not in
accordance with my propeller.

To solve MY problem without to pay to much I increase only a very little
bit the power (if you put too much power the cooling system is not
sufficient we have a tmd and not a TAMD),
If you have a engineer culture you can do that by your self if not find
a VERY good mechanical (like one for truck, not necessarily a VOLVO
guy).

Read attached files it will help you to understand your engine,
Hoping that can help you,
are you in the Med area ?
jluc

CB SM316

____________________________________________
--- In amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com, Kent Robertson <karkauai@.. .>
wrote:

Merci, Jean-Luc,
I already had the injectors and pump removed and sent to Volvo service
center for inspection, cleaning, and adjustment. No change in
performance was noted. After repitching the fixed prop I was able to
get 2850rpms, but only 7.5 kts. After only a month I am now only able
to get 2650 rpm with the same prop. KRISTY is on the hard in St.
Maarten getting a new bottom paint job. I'll be interested to see if I
can again get 2850 with the bottom and the prop cleaned. If it still
max's at 2650 I have to assume that I still have a problem with the
Volvo. I plan to find a Volvo service center on the Chesapeake and have
them evaluate the engine one more time anyway. If I'm back to 2850,
I'll have the autoprop repitched to allow 3000 rpm.

I'm not really clear on your post about "Increase the power (one YOUR
risk) of the engine by changing the injection". I looked at the link
but my French is so bad that it wasn't much help. Have you altered the
injection pump to feed more fuel to the engine to gain more power? At
what "risk"?

Merci, again,
Kent
KRISTY
SM243



--- On Sat, 3/13/10, Jean-Luc jlm@... wrote:


From: Jean-Luc jlm@...
Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor
To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
Date: Saturday, March 13, 2010, 12:02 PM






I have exactly the same configuration as you (SM316)
With a new turbo, boat cleaned, injectors cleaned etc etc ...
On the best sea that you can imagine I can retch 2850 rpm and a spead
of 8.25 knds
AND THAT IS NOT ENOUGH !! the power of the TMD22 is at this point
around then 40 HP !!
!!
Conclusion : the seize of the autoprop is too big !

What you can do :

1. put a smaller prop (or re-pitch the autoprop)

2. Increase the power (one YOUR risk) of the engine by changing the
injection .... see my post (Bosch pump) it 10 minutes work !!

3. buy a AMEL 54 :-)

jlm
CottonBay sm316









Re: [Amel] Propellor

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Richard, on a previous boat, a 42 foot racer/cruiser I had a volvo 2030 30 hp. At 2000 rpm and 5 knots boat speed the consumption was 1.2 (one point two) litres per hour. At 2500 rpm and 6 knots speed the consumption jumped to 2.2 litres per hour.
regards
Danny SM299 Ocean Pearl

--- On Fri, 19/3/10, richard03801@... <richard03801@...> wrote:


From: richard03801@... <richard03801@...>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Friday, 19 March, 2010, 10:40 AM


 



Hi Kent, I was wondering what kind of fuel consumption are you seeing. And do you often run you TMD at full power and for how long.
Most of us are concerned with our clean burn rate. At sea we often motor sail at around 1500 just to conserve fuel for the long haul.
When you press it at 2800 or so do you see any over heating or black smoke or increase crank case oil consumption?

Be interesting to chat about someday.
Fair winds
Richard SM209
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

-----Original Message-----
From: Kent Robertson <karkauai@yahoo. com>
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 14:22:46
To: <amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor

Thanks, Danny, already been there and done that.  Wish it'd been that simple for me.
Kent

--- On Thu, 3/18/10, Danny SIMMS <simms@.... nz> wrote:


From: Danny SIMMS <simms@.... nz>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor
To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
Date: Thursday, March 18, 2010, 4:52 PM


 



Hi Kent, after discussion with a Volvo tech at St Maarten I corrected the code setting on the tacometer to match the motor and immediately achieved a 300 rpm improvement from 2500 to 2800. There is a recessed button on the back and you scroll through to the correct number for your motor model. Mine was miss set.
Danny and Yvonne SM 299 Ocean Pearl 

--- On Wed, 17/3/10, Kent Robertson <karkauai@yahoo. com> wrote:

From: Kent Robertson <karkauai@yahoo. com>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor
To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
Date: Wednesday, 17 March, 2010, 2:04 AM

 

I will give you a report when it's done...probably in June.
Kent

--- On Tue, 3/16/10, jlm@jlmertz. fr <jlm@jlmertz. fr> wrote:

From: jlm@jlmertz. fr <jlm@jlmertz. fr>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor
To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
Date: Tuesday, March 16, 2010, 4:36 AM

 

Fine, tell me more after this job,
Try to ask him his opinon to increese the power by 1/4 of turn of gas
oil rate,
if possible try that with this guy,
bonne chance
/"tout est possible dans un monde infini"/
jluc
------------ --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- -

Kent Robertson a écrit :


Thank you again Jean-Luc. Very interesting reading. I'll let you
know what I decide on after I have a Volvo service mechanic look at
the engine one more time.
I am currently in St. Maarten in the lesser Antilles and will be going
north thru the Virgins and Bahamas to the Chesapeake by June 1.
Probably won't get to the Med until after I go thru the Panama Canal
and do the Pacific for a few years.
Again, thank you for your interest and help.
Kent
KRISTY
SM 243

--- On Sun, 3/14/10, Jean-Luc <jlm@jlmertz. fr
<mailto:jlm% 40jlmertz. fr>> wrote:

From: Jean-Luc <jlm@jlmertz. fr <mailto:jlm% 40jlmertz. fr>>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor
To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
<mailto:amelyachtow ners%40yahoogrou ps.com>
Date: Sunday, March 14, 2010, 12:33 PM



The principle of the injection pump :
http://www.landrove rfaq.com/ download/ file.php? id=293&sid=
91cbea82e8cefc8&#92;
b18eb0f36efecdc39& mode=view
The Bosch book in English : http://www.htsuk. plus.com/ BOSCH_VE_
PUMPS.pdf

1 - If you have air (turbo ok) and gas oil (injection pump ok) you must
have power
2 - My opinion and only mein is that the engine (tmd22) is not in
accordance with my propeller.

To solve MY problem without to pay to much I increase only a very little
bit the power (if you put too much power the cooling system is not
sufficient we have a tmd and not a TAMD),
If you have a engineer culture you can do that by your self if not find
a VERY good mechanical (like one for truck, not necessarily a VOLVO
guy).

Read attached files it will help you to understand your engine,
Hoping that can help you,
are you in the Med area ?
jluc

CB SM316

___________ _________ _________ _________ ______
--- In amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com, Kent Robertson <karkauai@.. .>
wrote:

Merci, Jean-Luc,
I already had the injectors and pump removed and sent to Volvo service
center for inspection, cleaning, and adjustment. No change in
performance was noted. After repitching the fixed prop I was able to
get 2850rpms, but only 7.5 kts. After only a month I am now only able
to get 2650 rpm with the same prop. KRISTY is on the hard in St.
Maarten getting a new bottom paint job. I'll be interested to see if I
can again get 2850 with the bottom and the prop cleaned. If it still
max's at 2650 I have to assume that I still have a problem with the
Volvo. I plan to find a Volvo service center on the Chesapeake and have
them evaluate the engine one more time anyway. If I'm back to 2850,
I'll have the autoprop repitched to allow 3000 rpm.

I'm not really clear on your post about "Increase the power (one YOUR
risk) of the engine by changing the injection". I looked at the link
but my French is so bad that it wasn't much help. Have you altered the
injection pump to feed more fuel to the engine to gain more power? At
what "risk"?

Merci, again,
Kent
KRISTY
SM243



--- On Sat, 3/13/10, Jean-Luc jlm@... wrote:


From: Jean-Luc jlm@...
Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor
To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
Date: Saturday, March 13, 2010, 12:02 PM






I have exactly the same configuration as you (SM316)
With a new turbo, boat cleaned, injectors cleaned etc etc ...
On the best sea that you can imagine I can retch 2850 rpm and a spead
of 8.25 knds
AND THAT IS NOT ENOUGH !! the power of the TMD22 is at this point
around then 40 HP !!
!!
Conclusion : the seize of the autoprop is too big !

What you can do :

1. put a smaller prop (or re-pitch the autoprop)

2. Increase the power (one YOUR risk) of the engine by changing the
injection .... see my post (Bosch pump) it 10 minutes work !!

3. buy a AMEL 54 :-)

jlm
CottonBay sm316






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]














[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Propellor

richard03801@...
 

Hi Kent, I was wondering what kind of fuel consumption are you seeing. And do you often run you TMD at full power and for how long.
Most of us are concerned with our clean burn rate. At sea we often motor sail at around 1500 just to conserve fuel for the long haul.
When you press it at 2800 or so do you see any over heating or black smoke or increase crank case oil consumption?

Be interesting to chat about someday.
Fair winds
Richard SM209
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

-----Original Message-----
From: Kent Robertson <karkauai@...>
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 14:22:46
To: <amelyachtowners@...>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor

Thanks, Danny, already been there and done that.  Wish it'd been that simple for me.
Kent

--- On Thu, 3/18/10, Danny SIMMS <simms@...> wrote:


From: Danny SIMMS <simms@...>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Thursday, March 18, 2010, 4:52 PM


 



Hi Kent, after discussion with a Volvo tech at St Maarten I corrected the code setting on the tacometer to match the motor and immediately achieved a 300 rpm improvement from 2500 to 2800. There is a recessed button on the back and you scroll through to the correct number for your motor model. Mine was miss set.
Danny and Yvonne SM 299 Ocean Pearl 

--- On Wed, 17/3/10, Kent Robertson <karkauai@yahoo. com> wrote:

From: Kent Robertson <karkauai@yahoo. com>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor
To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
Date: Wednesday, 17 March, 2010, 2:04 AM

 

I will give you a report when it's done...probably in June.
Kent

--- On Tue, 3/16/10, jlm@jlmertz. fr <jlm@jlmertz. fr> wrote:

From: jlm@jlmertz. fr <jlm@jlmertz. fr>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor
To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
Date: Tuesday, March 16, 2010, 4:36 AM

 

Fine, tell me more after this job,
Try to ask him his opinon to increese the power by 1/4 of turn of gas
oil rate,
if possible try that with this guy,
bonne chance
/"tout est possible dans un monde infini"/
jluc
------------ --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- -

Kent Robertson a écrit :


Thank you again Jean-Luc. Very interesting reading. I'll let you
know what I decide on after I have a Volvo service mechanic look at
the engine one more time.
I am currently in St. Maarten in the lesser Antilles and will be going
north thru the Virgins and Bahamas to the Chesapeake by June 1.
Probably won't get to the Med until after I go thru the Panama Canal
and do the Pacific for a few years.
Again, thank you for your interest and help.
Kent
KRISTY
SM 243

--- On Sun, 3/14/10, Jean-Luc <jlm@jlmertz. fr
<mailto:jlm% 40jlmertz. fr>> wrote:

From: Jean-Luc <jlm@jlmertz. fr <mailto:jlm% 40jlmertz. fr>>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor
To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
<mailto:amelyachtow ners%40yahoogrou ps.com>
Date: Sunday, March 14, 2010, 12:33 PM



The principle of the injection pump :
http://www.landrove rfaq.com/ download/ file.php? id=293&sid=
91cbea82e8cefc8&#92;
b18eb0f36efecdc39& mode=view
The Bosch book in English : http://www.htsuk. plus.com/ BOSCH_VE_
PUMPS.pdf

1 - If you have air (turbo ok) and gas oil (injection pump ok) you must
have power
2 - My opinion and only mein is that the engine (tmd22) is not in
accordance with my propeller.

To solve MY problem without to pay to much I increase only a very little
bit the power (if you put too much power the cooling system is not
sufficient we have a tmd and not a TAMD),
If you have a engineer culture you can do that by your self if not find
a VERY good mechanical (like one for truck, not necessarily a VOLVO
guy).

Read attached files it will help you to understand your engine,
Hoping that can help you,
are you in the Med area ?
jluc

CB SM316

____________________________________________
--- In amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com, Kent Robertson <karkauai@.. .>
wrote:

Merci, Jean-Luc,
I already had the injectors and pump removed and sent to Volvo service
center for inspection, cleaning, and adjustment. No change in
performance was noted. After repitching the fixed prop I was able to
get 2850rpms, but only 7.5 kts. After only a month I am now only able
to get 2650 rpm with the same prop. KRISTY is on the hard in St.
Maarten getting a new bottom paint job. I'll be interested to see if I
can again get 2850 with the bottom and the prop cleaned. If it still
max's at 2650 I have to assume that I still have a problem with the
Volvo. I plan to find a Volvo service center on the Chesapeake and have
them evaluate the engine one more time anyway. If I'm back to 2850,
I'll have the autoprop repitched to allow 3000 rpm.

I'm not really clear on your post about "Increase the power (one YOUR
risk) of the engine by changing the injection". I looked at the link
but my French is so bad that it wasn't much help. Have you altered the
injection pump to feed more fuel to the engine to gain more power? At
what "risk"?

Merci, again,
Kent
KRISTY
SM243



--- On Sat, 3/13/10, Jean-Luc jlm@... wrote:


From: Jean-Luc jlm@...
Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor
To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
Date: Saturday, March 13, 2010, 12:02 PM






I have exactly the same configuration as you (SM316)
With a new turbo, boat cleaned, injectors cleaned etc etc ...
On the best sea that you can imagine I can retch 2850 rpm and a spead
of 8.25 knds
AND THAT IS NOT ENOUGH !! the power of the TMD22 is at this point
around then 40 HP !!
!!
Conclusion : the seize of the autoprop is too big !

What you can do :

1. put a smaller prop (or re-pitch the autoprop)

2. Increase the power (one YOUR risk) of the engine by changing the
injection .... see my post (Bosch pump) it 10 minutes work !!

3. buy a AMEL 54 :-)

jlm
CottonBay sm316









Re: [Amel] Propellor

karkauai
 

Thanks, Danny, already been there and done that.  Wish it'd been that simple for me.
Kent

--- On Thu, 3/18/10, Danny SIMMS <simms@...> wrote:


From: Danny SIMMS <simms@...>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Thursday, March 18, 2010, 4:52 PM


 



Hi Kent, after discussion with a Volvo tech at St Maarten I corrected the code setting on the tacometer to match the motor and immediately achieved a 300 rpm improvement from 2500 to 2800. There is a recessed button on the back and you scroll through to the correct number for your motor model. Mine was miss set.
Danny and Yvonne SM 299 Ocean Pearl 

--- On Wed, 17/3/10, Kent Robertson <karkauai@yahoo. com> wrote:

From: Kent Robertson <karkauai@yahoo. com>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor
To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
Date: Wednesday, 17 March, 2010, 2:04 AM

 

I will give you a report when it's done...probably in June.
Kent

--- On Tue, 3/16/10, jlm@jlmertz. fr <jlm@jlmertz. fr> wrote:

From: jlm@jlmertz. fr <jlm@jlmertz. fr>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor
To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
Date: Tuesday, March 16, 2010, 4:36 AM

 

Fine, tell me more after this job,
Try to ask him his opinon to increese the power by 1/4 of turn of gas
oil rate,
if possible try that with this guy,
bonne chance
/"tout est possible dans un monde infini"/
jluc
------------ --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- -

Kent Robertson a écrit :


Thank you again Jean-Luc. Very interesting reading. I'll let you
know what I decide on after I have a Volvo service mechanic look at
the engine one more time.
I am currently in St. Maarten in the lesser Antilles and will be going
north thru the Virgins and Bahamas to the Chesapeake by June 1.
Probably won't get to the Med until after I go thru the Panama Canal
and do the Pacific for a few years.
Again, thank you for your interest and help.
Kent
KRISTY
SM 243

--- On Sun, 3/14/10, Jean-Luc <jlm@jlmertz. fr
<mailto:jlm% 40jlmertz. fr>> wrote:

From: Jean-Luc <jlm@jlmertz. fr <mailto:jlm% 40jlmertz. fr>>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor
To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
<mailto:amelyachtow ners%40yahoogrou ps.com>
Date: Sunday, March 14, 2010, 12:33 PM



The principle of the injection pump :
http://www.landrove rfaq.com/ download/ file.php? id=293&sid=
91cbea82e8cefc8&#92;
b18eb0f36efecdc39& mode=view
The Bosch book in English : http://www.htsuk. plus.com/ BOSCH_VE_
PUMPS.pdf

1 - If you have air (turbo ok) and gas oil (injection pump ok) you must
have power
2 - My opinion and only mein is that the engine (tmd22) is not in
accordance with my propeller.

To solve MY problem without to pay to much I increase only a very little
bit the power (if you put too much power the cooling system is not
sufficient we have a tmd and not a TAMD),
If you have a engineer culture you can do that by your self if not find
a VERY good mechanical (like one for truck, not necessarily a VOLVO
guy).

Read attached files it will help you to understand your engine,
Hoping that can help you,
are you in the Med area ?
jluc

CB SM316

____________ _________ _________ _________ _____
--- In amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com, Kent Robertson <karkauai@.. .>
wrote:

Merci, Jean-Luc,
I already had the injectors and pump removed and sent to Volvo service
center for inspection, cleaning, and adjustment. No change in
performance was noted. After repitching the fixed prop I was able to
get 2850rpms, but only 7.5 kts. After only a month I am now only able
to get 2650 rpm with the same prop. KRISTY is on the hard in St.
Maarten getting a new bottom paint job. I'll be interested to see if I
can again get 2850 with the bottom and the prop cleaned. If it still
max's at 2650 I have to assume that I still have a problem with the
Volvo. I plan to find a Volvo service center on the Chesapeake and have
them evaluate the engine one more time anyway. If I'm back to 2850,
I'll have the autoprop repitched to allow 3000 rpm.

I'm not really clear on your post about "Increase the power (one YOUR
risk) of the engine by changing the injection". I looked at the link
but my French is so bad that it wasn't much help. Have you altered the
injection pump to feed more fuel to the engine to gain more power? At
what "risk"?

Merci, again,
Kent
KRISTY
SM243



--- On Sat, 3/13/10, Jean-Luc jlm@... wrote:


From: Jean-Luc jlm@...
Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor
To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
Date: Saturday, March 13, 2010, 12:02 PM






I have exactly the same configuration as you (SM316)
With a new turbo, boat cleaned, injectors cleaned etc etc ...
On the best sea that you can imagine I can retch 2850 rpm and a spead
of 8.25 knds
AND THAT IS NOT ENOUGH !! the power of the TMD22 is at this point
around then 40 HP !!
!!
Conclusion : the seize of the autoprop is too big !

What you can do :

1. put a smaller prop (or re-pitch the autoprop)

2. Increase the power (one YOUR risk) of the engine by changing the
injection .... see my post (Bosch pump) it 10 minutes work !!

3. buy a AMEL 54 :-)

jlm
CottonBay sm316



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Propellor

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Kent, after discussion with a Volvo tech at St Maarten I corrected the code setting on the tacometer to match the motor and immediately achieved a 300 rpm improvement from 2500 to 2800. There is a recessed button on the back and you scroll through to the correct number for your motor model. Mine was miss set.
Danny and Yvonne SM 299 Ocean Pearl

--- On Wed, 17/3/10, Kent Robertson <karkauai@...> wrote:


From: Kent Robertson <karkauai@...>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Wednesday, 17 March, 2010, 2:04 AM


 



I will give you a report when it's done...probably in June.
Kent

--- On Tue, 3/16/10, jlm@jlmertz. fr <jlm@jlmertz. fr> wrote:

From: jlm@jlmertz. fr <jlm@jlmertz. fr>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor
To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
Date: Tuesday, March 16, 2010, 4:36 AM

 

Fine, tell me more after this job,
Try to ask him his opinon to increese the power by 1/4 of turn of gas
oil rate,
if possible try that with this guy,
bonne chance
/"tout est possible dans un monde infini"/
jluc
------------ --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- -

Kent Robertson a écrit :


Thank you again Jean-Luc. Very interesting reading. I'll let you
know what I decide on after I have a Volvo service mechanic look at
the engine one more time.
I am currently in St. Maarten in the lesser Antilles and will be going
north thru the Virgins and Bahamas to the Chesapeake by June 1.
Probably won't get to the Med until after I go thru the Panama Canal
and do the Pacific for a few years.
Again, thank you for your interest and help.
Kent
KRISTY
SM 243

--- On Sun, 3/14/10, Jean-Luc <jlm@jlmertz. fr
<mailto:jlm% 40jlmertz. fr>> wrote:

From: Jean-Luc <jlm@jlmertz. fr <mailto:jlm% 40jlmertz. fr>>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor
To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
<mailto:amelyachtow ners%40yahoogrou ps.com>
Date: Sunday, March 14, 2010, 12:33 PM



The principle of the injection pump :
http://www.landrove rfaq.com/ download/ file.php? id=293&sid=
91cbea82e8cefc8&#92;
b18eb0f36efecdc39& mode=view
The Bosch book in English : http://www.htsuk. plus.com/ BOSCH_VE_
PUMPS.pdf

1 - If you have air (turbo ok) and gas oil (injection pump ok) you must
have power
2 - My opinion and only mein is that the engine (tmd22) is not in
accordance with my propeller.

To solve MY problem without to pay to much I increase only a very little
bit the power (if you put too much power the cooling system is not
sufficient we have a tmd and not a TAMD),
If you have a engineer culture you can do that by your self if not find
a VERY good mechanical (like one for truck, not necessarily a VOLVO
guy).

Read attached files it will help you to understand your engine,
Hoping that can help you,
are you in the Med area ?
jluc

CB SM316

____________ _________ _________ _________ _____
--- In amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com, Kent Robertson <karkauai@.. .>
wrote:

Merci, Jean-Luc,
I already had the injectors and pump removed and sent to Volvo service
center for inspection, cleaning, and adjustment. No change in
performance was noted. After repitching the fixed prop I was able to
get 2850rpms, but only 7.5 kts. After only a month I am now only able
to get 2650 rpm with the same prop. KRISTY is on the hard in St.
Maarten getting a new bottom paint job. I'll be interested to see if I
can again get 2850 with the bottom and the prop cleaned. If it still
max's at 2650 I have to assume that I still have a problem with the
Volvo. I plan to find a Volvo service center on the Chesapeake and have
them evaluate the engine one more time anyway. If I'm back to 2850,
I'll have the autoprop repitched to allow 3000 rpm.

I'm not really clear on your post about "Increase the power (one YOUR
risk) of the engine by changing the injection". I looked at the link
but my French is so bad that it wasn't much help. Have you altered the
injection pump to feed more fuel to the engine to gain more power? At
what "risk"?

Merci, again,
Kent
KRISTY
SM243



--- On Sat, 3/13/10, Jean-Luc jlm@... wrote:


From: Jean-Luc jlm@...
Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor
To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
Date: Saturday, March 13, 2010, 12:02 PM






I have exactly the same configuration as you (SM316)
With a new turbo, boat cleaned, injectors cleaned etc etc ...
On the best sea that you can imagine I can retch 2850 rpm and a spead
of 8.25 knds
AND THAT IS NOT ENOUGH !! the power of the TMD22 is at this point
around then 40 HP !!
!!
Conclusion : the seize of the autoprop is too big !

What you can do :

1. put a smaller prop (or re-pitch the autoprop)

2. Increase the power (one YOUR risk) of the engine by changing the
injection .... see my post (Bosch pump) it 10 minutes work !!

3. buy a AMEL 54 :-)

jlm
CottonBay sm316






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


[Amel] Re: Autoprop Bearing Replacement

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Mike:

Thanks for the update on your findings. I am glad that your seals held up
better than mine and you had minimal damage. I believe that the early
failure of my bearings was due to power washing the prop upon haul out,
thus forcing water and debris past the lip seals that seal the bearing cavity
and my waiting until I returned to the boat six months later (after hurricane
season) and at that point lubing the prop bearings. The Autoprop literature
clearly states that the prop should be lubed just after haul out. In my
case I did not follow those instructions and that failure combined with
the power washing, I believe, caused my premature failures.

So I recommend to all members:

1. DO NOT LET ANYONE POWER WASH YOUR AUTOPROP.
2. DO LUBE THE BEARINGS IMMEDIATELY UPON HAUL OUT.

In my case I lube then upon haul out and again touch them up with
lube immediately before splashing the boat after it has been on the
hard.

On the water tight issue: The bearing race recess forms a water water
tight compartment with the lip seal that is pressed into the groove
in the blade. The bearings reside in this water proof cavity. With a
hole in the hub that penetrates from the hub center bolt retention
hole into the bearing race groove you have a path for water ingress
into the bearing/grease/cavity of the prop. Water will be slung by
centrifugal force from the prop hub retention bolt hole, through
the newly drilled holes and into the race groove/race/bearing/grease
cavity unless you seal those holes with something. As you correctly
point out, the hub center cavity is NOT sealed to sea water by the red cap.

All the best,

Gary
Amel SM #335
"Liahona"

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Mike Ondra" <mdondra@...> wrote:

" I do not recognize there being a "sealed cavity" in the prop as the
nose cone is not water tight."

Mike