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New file uploaded to amelyachtowners
amelyachtowners@...
Hello,
This email message is a notification to let you know that a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the amelyachtowners group. File : /Revelation SM390/LA3 L10 002 UK 0603 Compact.pdf Uploaded by : drew_gaffney <drew.gaffney@vanderbilt.edu> Description : Thompson_Brandt L10 Wash_Dry Repair Manual You can access this file at the URL: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/files/Revelation%20SM390/LA3%20L10%20002%20UK%200603%20Compact.pdf To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit: http://help.yahoo.com/l/us/yahoo/groups/original/members/forms/general.htmlfiles Regards, drew_gaffney <drew.gaffney@vanderbilt.edu>
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Genoa Furling System
paraic44 <paraic44@...>
We plan to replace our standing rigging on Amel SM hull No. 228 over the Easter weekend. Our rigger has requested details of the strip-down and reassembly procedure for the furler. Has anyone a copy of the procedure or knowledge of where it might be obtained ?.
We would appreciate your assistance. Myra & Paraic SV Saol Eile
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Re: Flat copper cable in the greywater bilge (Sm2000)
svbebe <yahoogroups@...>
Lorenzo,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Your question: "...the nut on the bottom of the bilge takes only copper wire or even the keel?" Answer: The 30mm nut attaches the ground strap to the keel. Your question: "I can unscrew it without consequence?" Answer: Yes, no problem in removing Your question: "And is this copper cable the link between all ground cables to sacrificial anodes on rudder? Answer: Yes, all Yellow/Green ground wires lead to the top of the ground cable in the bilge...AND... one wire leads from the top of the ground connection to the sacrificial anodes on rudder. The original ground cable was made of flat woven copper mesh. I could not find an exact replacement, so replaced it with 1/8" (4mm) thick copper that was 2" wide (5cm). We will be in Italy in about 2 years...hopefully we can meet then. Best, Bill s/v BeBe, SM2, #387 Currently Malaysia
--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "ferruccilorenzo" <ferruccilorenzo@...> wrote:
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Re: Flat copper cable in the greywater bilge (Sm2000)
ferruccilorenzo <ferruccilorenzo@...>
Dear Bill, thank You very very much!! You were very kind, remember when you switch from Italy to write, I will welcome you!
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Concerning the issue, the nut on the bottom of the bilge takes only copper wire or even the keel? I can unscrew it without consequence? And is this copper cable the link between all ground cables to sacrificial anodes on rudder? Thanks again, Lorenzo (SM2 # 420) Now in Italy (500 ft from home) :)
--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "svbebe" <yahoogroups@...> wrote:
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Lofrans Tigres Windlass Gypsy_Chain Compatibility Question
drew_gaffney <drew.gaffney@...>
Our gypsy is worn and needs to be replaced. Our chain, OEM from Amel on SM390, measures exactly 10mm by calipers. In looking at the Lofrans parts catalog, there are a number of choices: 3/8" DIN 766, Ø 10-3/8"HT/P30 and 3/8HT s/8PC, corresponding to Part # 276f, 276e, or 276h, respectively. There are actually 7 choices, but these seem to be closest to 10mm/3/8". Does anyone know which chain Amel was placing in their 2003 SM's?
Thanks, Drew Revelation SM390 Lying Opua NZ
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New file uploaded to amelyachtowners
amelyachtowners@...
Hello,
This email message is a notification to let you know that a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the amelyachtowners group. File : /Revelation SM390/LA3P L10 006 0404 Rev.pdf Uploaded by : drew_gaffney <drew.gaffney@vanderbilt.edu> Description : Thomson_Brandt L10 Wash_Dry manual You can access this file at the URL: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/files/Revelation%20SM390/LA3P%20L10%20006%200404%20Rev.pdf To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit: http://help.yahoo.com/l/us/yahoo/groups/original/members/forms/general.htmlfiles Regards, drew_gaffney <drew.gaffney@vanderbilt.edu>
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Re: Flat copper cable in the greywater bilge (Sm2000)
svbebe <yahoogroups@...>
The copper strap is the boat's ground system. You need to replace it.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
See the photos and description in the photo section of this website: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/138287824/pic/list Best, Bill s/v BeBe, SM2, #387 Currently Malaysia
--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "ferruccilorenzo" <ferruccilorenzo@...> wrote:
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Flat copper cable in the greywater bilge (Sm2000)
ferruccilorenzo <ferruccilorenzo@...>
Cleaning the bilge water gray today I found this cable copper plate that appears between the broken bolt on the bottom of the bilge and the other piece that goes on top. I have no idea of what it is, you know what? This may be due to the fact that he turned on the indicator "masses -" indicating a dispersal?
SM2000 No. 420 Thank you very much, sorry 4 my bad English, I'm italian!
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Re: [Amel] Re: Autoprop Bearing Replacement
richard03801@...
Mike we have the same prop on our boat. SM 209 with no issues.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Happy sailing Richard SM 209 Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: "Mike Ondra" <mdondra@verizon.net> Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2010 07:33:54 To: <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> Subject: RE: [Amel] Re: Autoprop Bearing Replacement Gary, Perhaps there are different configurations of the Autoprop. Ours has bearings and bearing race exposed to sea water. The only seals we have to deal with are those on the prop shaft. Picture of reassembled prop included in Aletes photos folder. Mike Aletes SM#240 _____ From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com [mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of amelliahona Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2010 8:23 PM To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Amel] Re: Autoprop Bearing Replacement Mike: Thanks for the update on your findings. I am glad that your seals held up better than mine and you had minimal damage. I believe that the early failure of my bearings was due to power washing the prop upon haul out, thus forcing water and debris past the lip seals that seal the bearing cavity and my waiting until I returned to the boat six months later (after hurricane season) and at that point lubing the prop bearings. The Autoprop literature clearly states that the prop should be lubed just after haul out. In my case I did not follow those instructions and that failure combined with the power washing, I believe, caused my premature failures. So I recommend to all members: 1. DO NOT LET ANYONE POWER WASH YOUR AUTOPROP. 2. DO LUBE THE BEARINGS IMMEDIATELY UPON HAUL OUT. In my case I lube then upon haul out and again touch them up with lube immediately before splashing the boat after it has been on the hard. On the water tight issue: The bearing race recess forms a water water tight compartment with the lip seal that is pressed into the groove in the blade. The bearings reside in this water proof cavity. With a hole in the hub that penetrates from the hub center bolt retention hole into the bearing race groove you have a path for water ingress into the bearing/grease/cavity of the prop. Water will be slung by centrifugal force from the prop hub retention bolt hole, through the newly drilled holes and into the race groove/race/bearing/grease cavity unless you seal those holes with something. As you correctly point out, the hub center cavity is NOT sealed to sea water by the red cap. All the best, Gary Amel SM #335 "Liahona" --- In amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com, "Mike Ondra" <mdondra@...> wrote: " I do not recognize there being a "sealed cavity" in the prop as the nose cone is not water tight." Mike
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[Amel] Re: Autoprop Bearing Replacement
svbebe <yahoogroups@...>
Gary and Mike,
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Yes there are some differences...Bruntons changed bearing types sometime around 2002. When Mike posted his method of bearing removal, I emailed a photo of Mike's prop to a guy at Brutons and asked for his comments on Mike's method. BTW, I did not reveal the source of the photo. I did not receive any direct comments about Mike's method. The return email stated, "Your (BeBe's) autoprop uses a different bearing system...the picture you attached shows the old style ball bearing system with open bearing. Your propeller uses a seal and taper roller bearing together with a thrust race, which are much easier to remove." I am not sure that this addresses Gary's question and possibly brings up more questions. Best, Bill s/v BeBe, SM2, #387 Currently Malasia
--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Mike Ondra" <mdondra@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel] Re: Autoprop Bearing Replacement
Gary,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Perhaps there are different configurations of the Autoprop. Ours has bearings and bearing race exposed to sea water. The only seals we have to deal with are those on the prop shaft. Picture of reassembled prop included in Aletes photos folder. Mike Aletes SM#240 _____ From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com [mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of amelliahona Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2010 8:23 PM To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Amel] Re: Autoprop Bearing Replacement Mike: Thanks for the update on your findings. I am glad that your seals held up better than mine and you had minimal damage. I believe that the early failure of my bearings was due to power washing the prop upon haul out, thus forcing water and debris past the lip seals that seal the bearing cavity and my waiting until I returned to the boat six months later (after hurricane season) and at that point lubing the prop bearings. The Autoprop literature clearly states that the prop should be lubed just after haul out. In my case I did not follow those instructions and that failure combined with the power washing, I believe, caused my premature failures. So I recommend to all members: 1. DO NOT LET ANYONE POWER WASH YOUR AUTOPROP. 2. DO LUBE THE BEARINGS IMMEDIATELY UPON HAUL OUT. In my case I lube then upon haul out and again touch them up with lube immediately before splashing the boat after it has been on the hard. On the water tight issue: The bearing race recess forms a water water tight compartment with the lip seal that is pressed into the groove in the blade. The bearings reside in this water proof cavity. With a hole in the hub that penetrates from the hub center bolt retention hole into the bearing race groove you have a path for water ingress into the bearing/grease/cavity of the prop. Water will be slung by centrifugal force from the prop hub retention bolt hole, through the newly drilled holes and into the race groove/race/bearing/grease cavity unless you seal those holes with something. As you correctly point out, the hub center cavity is NOT sealed to sea water by the red cap. All the best, Gary Amel SM #335 "Liahona"
--- In amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, "Mike Ondra" <mdondra@...> wrote: " I do not recognize there being a "sealed cavity" in the prop as the nose cone is not water tight." Mike
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Re: [Amel] Propellor
Hi, Richard,
I've only done a systematic evaluation of fuel consumption on the trip from Norfolk to Grenada this Fall. I had the newly repitched fixed prop on the boat. In different sea conditions I noted 3.5-4.0 liter/hr consumption at 1600, 1800, and 2000 rpm, some of which was motoring and some motorsailing, some heading into the sea and some with light wind astern. At 2200 rpm the consumption jumped to 5.5-6.0 liters per hour. I haven't run it faster than that long enough to have a feel for consumption at higher rpm. I do run the engine at maximum rpm (2850 with that prop and a clean hull) for about 15 min every 6 hours. After burning 3/4 tank of fuel on the way down there was some soot on the port topside aft of the exhaust, but nothing that wouldn't be expected according to a mechanic who was looking at my genset. When running hard there is no increase in smoke coming from the exhaust that I can see. Running the Volvo as described, there is virtually no oil consumption. I haven't had to add oil except when changing oil and filters since I've owned her. Whaddya think? Kent KRISTY SM243
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Re: [Amel] Fuel burn rate
richard03801@...
Thanks Danny, on our last Atlantic crossing motor sailing at a1400 our speed w/10 kts wind was 7.5 burn rate 1.5 l/hr. At 2200 8/l/hr
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Average bottom some build up. Did not push to turbo. Lube oil needed after or during crossing zero. We use synthetic oil designed for diesel as lube oil. Thanks again. Richard on SM 209 Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: Danny SIMMS <simms@xtra.co.nz> Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2010 06:15:06 To: <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor Hi Richard, on a previous boat, a 42 foot racer/cruiser I had a volvo 2030 30 hp. At 2000 rpm and 5 knots boat speed the consumption was 1.2 (one point two) litres per hour. At 2500 rpm and 6 knots speed the consumption jumped to 2.2 litres per hour. regards Danny SM299 Ocean Pearl --- On Fri, 19/3/10, richard03801@yahoo.com <richard03801@yahoo.com> wrote: From: richard03801@yahoo.com <richard03801@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com Date: Friday, 19 March, 2010, 10:40 AM Hi Kent, I was wondering what kind of fuel consumption are you seeing. And do you often run you TMD at full power and for how long. Most of us are concerned with our clean burn rate. At sea we often motor sail at around 1500 just to conserve fuel for the long haul. When you press it at 2800 or so do you see any over heating or black smoke or increase crank case oil consumption? Be interesting to chat about someday. Fair winds Richard SM209 Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T -----Original Message----- From: Kent Robertson <karkauai@yahoo. com> Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 14:22:46 To: <amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com> Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor Thanks, Danny, already been there and done that. Wish it'd been that simple for me. Kent --- On Thu, 3/18/10, Danny SIMMS <simms@xtra.co. nz> wrote: From: Danny SIMMS <simms@xtra.co. nz> Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com Date: Thursday, March 18, 2010, 4:52 PM Hi Kent, after discussion with a Volvo tech at St Maarten I corrected the code setting on the tacometer to match the motor and immediately achieved a 300 rpm improvement from 2500 to 2800. There is a recessed button on the back and you scroll through to the correct number for your motor model. Mine was miss set. Danny and Yvonne SM 299 Ocean Pearl --- On Wed, 17/3/10, Kent Robertson <karkauai@yahoo. com> wrote: From: Kent Robertson <karkauai@yahoo. com> Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com Date: Wednesday, 17 March, 2010, 2:04 AM I will give you a report when it's done...probably in June. Kent --- On Tue, 3/16/10, jlm@jlmertz. fr <jlm@jlmertz. fr> wrote: From: jlm@jlmertz. fr <jlm@jlmertz. fr> Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com Date: Tuesday, March 16, 2010, 4:36 AM Fine, tell me more after this job, Try to ask him his opinon to increese the power by 1/4 of turn of gas oil rate, if possible try that with this guy, bonne chance /"tout est possible dans un monde infini"/ jluc ------------ --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- - Kent Robertson a écrit :
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Re: [Amel] Propellor
Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
Hi Richard, on a previous boat, a 42 foot racer/cruiser I had a volvo 2030 30 hp. At 2000 rpm and 5 knots boat speed the consumption was 1.2 (one point two) litres per hour. At 2500 rpm and 6 knots speed the consumption jumped to 2.2 litres per hour.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
regards Danny SM299 Ocean Pearl
--- On Fri, 19/3/10, richard03801@yahoo.com <richard03801@yahoo.com> wrote:
From: richard03801@yahoo.com <richard03801@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com Date: Friday, 19 March, 2010, 10:40 AM Hi Kent, I was wondering what kind of fuel consumption are you seeing. And do you often run you TMD at full power and for how long. Most of us are concerned with our clean burn rate. At sea we often motor sail at around 1500 just to conserve fuel for the long haul. When you press it at 2800 or so do you see any over heating or black smoke or increase crank case oil consumption? Be interesting to chat about someday. Fair winds Richard SM209 Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T -----Original Message----- From: Kent Robertson <karkauai@yahoo. com> Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 14:22:46 To: <amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com> Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor Thanks, Danny, already been there and done that. Wish it'd been that simple for me. Kent --- On Thu, 3/18/10, Danny SIMMS <simms@xtra.co. nz> wrote: From: Danny SIMMS <simms@xtra.co. nz> Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com Date: Thursday, March 18, 2010, 4:52 PM Hi Kent, after discussion with a Volvo tech at St Maarten I corrected the code setting on the tacometer to match the motor and immediately achieved a 300 rpm improvement from 2500 to 2800. There is a recessed button on the back and you scroll through to the correct number for your motor model. Mine was miss set. Danny and Yvonne SM 299 Ocean Pearl --- On Wed, 17/3/10, Kent Robertson <karkauai@yahoo. com> wrote: From: Kent Robertson <karkauai@yahoo. com> Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com Date: Wednesday, 17 March, 2010, 2:04 AM I will give you a report when it's done...probably in June. Kent --- On Tue, 3/16/10, jlm@jlmertz. fr <jlm@jlmertz. fr> wrote: From: jlm@jlmertz. fr <jlm@jlmertz. fr> Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com Date: Tuesday, March 16, 2010, 4:36 AM Fine, tell me more after this job, Try to ask him his opinon to increese the power by 1/4 of turn of gas oil rate, if possible try that with this guy, bonne chance /"tout est possible dans un monde infini"/ jluc ------------ --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- - Kent Robertson a écrit : [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Re: [Amel] Propellor
richard03801@...
Hi Kent, I was wondering what kind of fuel consumption are you seeing. And do you often run you TMD at full power and for how long.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Most of us are concerned with our clean burn rate. At sea we often motor sail at around 1500 just to conserve fuel for the long haul. When you press it at 2800 or so do you see any over heating or black smoke or increase crank case oil consumption? Be interesting to chat about someday. Fair winds Richard SM209 Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: Kent Robertson <karkauai@yahoo.com> Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 14:22:46 To: <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor Thanks, Danny, already been there and done that. Wish it'd been that simple for me. Kent --- On Thu, 3/18/10, Danny SIMMS <simms@xtra.co.nz> wrote: From: Danny SIMMS <simms@xtra.co.nz> Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com Date: Thursday, March 18, 2010, 4:52 PM Hi Kent, after discussion with a Volvo tech at St Maarten I corrected the code setting on the tacometer to match the motor and immediately achieved a 300 rpm improvement from 2500 to 2800. There is a recessed button on the back and you scroll through to the correct number for your motor model. Mine was miss set. Danny and Yvonne SM 299 Ocean Pearl --- On Wed, 17/3/10, Kent Robertson <karkauai@yahoo. com> wrote: From: Kent Robertson <karkauai@yahoo. com> Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com Date: Wednesday, 17 March, 2010, 2:04 AM I will give you a report when it's done...probably in June. Kent --- On Tue, 3/16/10, jlm@jlmertz. fr <jlm@jlmertz. fr> wrote: From: jlm@jlmertz. fr <jlm@jlmertz. fr> Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com Date: Tuesday, March 16, 2010, 4:36 AM Fine, tell me more after this job, Try to ask him his opinon to increese the power by 1/4 of turn of gas oil rate, if possible try that with this guy, bonne chance /"tout est possible dans un monde infini"/ jluc ------------ --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- - Kent Robertson a écrit :
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Re: [Amel] Propellor
Thanks, Danny, already been there and done that. Wish it'd been that simple for me.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Kent
--- On Thu, 3/18/10, Danny SIMMS <simms@xtra.co.nz> wrote:
From: Danny SIMMS <simms@xtra.co.nz> Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com Date: Thursday, March 18, 2010, 4:52 PM Hi Kent, after discussion with a Volvo tech at St Maarten I corrected the code setting on the tacometer to match the motor and immediately achieved a 300 rpm improvement from 2500 to 2800. There is a recessed button on the back and you scroll through to the correct number for your motor model. Mine was miss set. Danny and Yvonne SM 299 Ocean Pearl --- On Wed, 17/3/10, Kent Robertson <karkauai@yahoo. com> wrote: From: Kent Robertson <karkauai@yahoo. com> Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com Date: Wednesday, 17 March, 2010, 2:04 AM I will give you a report when it's done...probably in June. Kent --- On Tue, 3/16/10, jlm@jlmertz. fr <jlm@jlmertz. fr> wrote: From: jlm@jlmertz. fr <jlm@jlmertz. fr> Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com Date: Tuesday, March 16, 2010, 4:36 AM Fine, tell me more after this job, Try to ask him his opinon to increese the power by 1/4 of turn of gas oil rate, if possible try that with this guy, bonne chance /"tout est possible dans un monde infini"/ jluc ------------ --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- - Kent Robertson a écrit : [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Re: [Amel] Propellor
Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
Hi Kent, after discussion with a Volvo tech at St Maarten I corrected the code setting on the tacometer to match the motor and immediately achieved a 300 rpm improvement from 2500 to 2800. There is a recessed button on the back and you scroll through to the correct number for your motor model. Mine was miss set.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Danny and Yvonne SM 299 Ocean Pearl
--- On Wed, 17/3/10, Kent Robertson <karkauai@yahoo.com> wrote:
From: Kent Robertson <karkauai@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com Date: Wednesday, 17 March, 2010, 2:04 AM I will give you a report when it's done...probably in June. Kent --- On Tue, 3/16/10, jlm@jlmertz. fr <jlm@jlmertz. fr> wrote: From: jlm@jlmertz. fr <jlm@jlmertz. fr> Subject: Re: [Amel] Propellor To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com Date: Tuesday, March 16, 2010, 4:36 AM Fine, tell me more after this job, Try to ask him his opinon to increese the power by 1/4 of turn of gas oil rate, if possible try that with this guy, bonne chance /"tout est possible dans un monde infini"/ jluc ------------ --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- - Kent Robertson a écrit : [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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[Amel] Re: Autoprop Bearing Replacement
amelliahona <no_reply@...>
Mike:
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Thanks for the update on your findings. I am glad that your seals held up better than mine and you had minimal damage. I believe that the early failure of my bearings was due to power washing the prop upon haul out, thus forcing water and debris past the lip seals that seal the bearing cavity and my waiting until I returned to the boat six months later (after hurricane season) and at that point lubing the prop bearings. The Autoprop literature clearly states that the prop should be lubed just after haul out. In my case I did not follow those instructions and that failure combined with the power washing, I believe, caused my premature failures. So I recommend to all members: 1. DO NOT LET ANYONE POWER WASH YOUR AUTOPROP. 2. DO LUBE THE BEARINGS IMMEDIATELY UPON HAUL OUT. In my case I lube then upon haul out and again touch them up with lube immediately before splashing the boat after it has been on the hard. On the water tight issue: The bearing race recess forms a water water tight compartment with the lip seal that is pressed into the groove in the blade. The bearings reside in this water proof cavity. With a hole in the hub that penetrates from the hub center bolt retention hole into the bearing race groove you have a path for water ingress into the bearing/grease/cavity of the prop. Water will be slung by centrifugal force from the prop hub retention bolt hole, through the newly drilled holes and into the race groove/race/bearing/grease cavity unless you seal those holes with something. As you correctly point out, the hub center cavity is NOT sealed to sea water by the red cap. All the best, Gary Amel SM #335 "Liahona"
--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Mike Ondra" <mdondra@...> wrote:
" I do not recognize there being a "sealed cavity" in the prop as the nose cone is not water tight." Mike
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Rocna 25 on Sisila
Attilio Siviero <attilio.siviero@...>
the photo of the Rocna 25 on Sisila is posted among photos under Sisila
Attilio&Maria Amel Santorin#86 "Sisila" [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Rocna 25 on Santorin
Attilio Siviero <attilio.siviero@...>
Hi to all Santorin owners,
since I never had much confidence on the ordinary CQR anchor inherited with the Santorin, I purchased last year (#86 ex Delos, now Sisila), I purchsed a Rocna 25, maybe too heavy, anyhow much heavier than the CQR. The problem is that the trunk is too high to pass thru the bow (excuse my approximate English). SM#5 Spice said tht the trim of the trunk mst be to 12cm: according to my measurements, the R25 must be trimmd to 10cm, accordinf to the attached photo. Regards Maria&Attilio Amel Santorin#86 "Sisila" [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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