Date   

Re: [Amel] Maramu Galley Sink Drain Question

richard03801@...
 

We use Simply Green we do NOT use bleach because it will attach the rubber and SS. We also flush the bilge when we can.
Richard SM209
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

-----Original Message-----
From: Malcolm Phillips <MPhillips@compositesolutions.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2010 16:16:55
To: <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [Amel] Maramu Galley Sink Drain Question

Hi Kent,



From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Kent Robertson
Sent: 09 June 2010 14:07
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel] Maramu Galley Sink Drain Question





Hi, Howard,
That is how Amel does their grey water. We have to be very careful on
Kristy SM243 not to put any foodstuffs down the sink, but even so will
get a funky smell from the bilge every few days even when we're not
cooking...just from shower/sink drainage. I put a little bleach and a
little soap in each of the sinks and run it into the bilge, let it sit a
while, then pump it out using the whale pump that takes almost all of
the water out (rather than the electric pump that leaves a good bit in
the bilge). If I do that about twice a week I don't get any smell from
the bilge, and I use the whale pump on a regular basis to keep it from
drying out and make sure it works.

I'd be interested if anyone else has another solution to the grey water
smells. I have thoroughly cleaned the bilge last Fall, but it didn't
really change the odor issue.

Kent
SM243
KRISTY


Re: Maramu Galley Sink Drain Question

Howard Berger
 

Kent/Malcolm,

Thanks for your replies, gentlemen, and thank you for confirming the sinks are intended to drain into the bilge.

I think we're going to see if we can come up with a solution that utilizes the cockpit scuppers to get the water overboard. Will keep you apprised of our progress.

Best to all,
Howard
s/v JAZZ Maramu 144

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Malcolm Phillips <MPhillips@...> wrote:

Hi Kent/ Howard,



Having tried most things you mentioned my solution has been to
regularly remove the pipe and strum box ( still attached by
the suction pipe to the whale ) and then to hi pressure jet
wash the sump, keeping your face well clear and extending the
jet face to the very bottom of the sump and thoroughly
cleaning the base around the earth straps. This, together with
pumping with the whale every few days on board, keeps the
smell at bay.



Malcolm SM464

Bon Jovi







From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Kent Robertson
Sent: 09 June 2010 14:07
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel] Maramu Galley Sink Drain Question





Hi, Howard,
That is how Amel does their grey water. We have to be very careful on
Kristy SM243 not to put any foodstuffs down the sink, but even so will
get a funky smell from the bilge every few days even when we're not
cooking...just from shower/sink drainage. I put a little bleach and a
little soap in each of the sinks and run it into the bilge, let it sit a
while, then pump it out using the whale pump that takes almost all of
the water out (rather than the electric pump that leaves a good bit in
the bilge). If I do that about twice a week I don't get any smell from
the bilge, and I use the whale pump on a regular basis to keep it from
drying out and make sure it works.

I'd be interested if anyone else has another solution to the grey water
smells. I have thoroughly cleaned the bilge last Fall, but it didn't
really change the odor issue.

Kent
SM243
KRISTY

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Maramu Galley Sink Drain Question

Malcolm Phillips <MPhillips@...>
 

Hi Kent,



From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Kent Robertson
Sent: 09 June 2010 14:07
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel] Maramu Galley Sink Drain Question





Hi, Howard,
That is how Amel does their grey water. We have to be very careful on
Kristy SM243 not to put any foodstuffs down the sink, but even so will
get a funky smell from the bilge every few days even when we're not
cooking...just from shower/sink drainage. I put a little bleach and a
little soap in each of the sinks and run it into the bilge, let it sit a
while, then pump it out using the whale pump that takes almost all of
the water out (rather than the electric pump that leaves a good bit in
the bilge). If I do that about twice a week I don't get any smell from
the bilge, and I use the whale pump on a regular basis to keep it from
drying out and make sure it works.

I'd be interested if anyone else has another solution to the grey water
smells. I have thoroughly cleaned the bilge last Fall, but it didn't
really change the odor issue.

Kent
SM243
KRISTY


Re: [Amel] Maramu Galley Sink Drain Question

Malcolm Phillips <MPhillips@...>
 

Hi Kent/ Howard,



Having tried most things you mentioned my solution has been to
regularly remove the pipe and strum box ( still attached by
the suction pipe to the whale ) and then to hi pressure jet
wash the sump, keeping your face well clear and extending the
jet face to the very bottom of the sump and thoroughly
cleaning the base around the earth straps. This, together with
pumping with the whale every few days on board, keeps the
smell at bay.



Malcolm SM464

Bon Jovi







From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Kent Robertson
Sent: 09 June 2010 14:07
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel] Maramu Galley Sink Drain Question





Hi, Howard,
That is how Amel does their grey water. We have to be very careful on
Kristy SM243 not to put any foodstuffs down the sink, but even so will
get a funky smell from the bilge every few days even when we're not
cooking...just from shower/sink drainage. I put a little bleach and a
little soap in each of the sinks and run it into the bilge, let it sit a
while, then pump it out using the whale pump that takes almost all of
the water out (rather than the electric pump that leaves a good bit in
the bilge). If I do that about twice a week I don't get any smell from
the bilge, and I use the whale pump on a regular basis to keep it from
drying out and make sure it works.

I'd be interested if anyone else has another solution to the grey water
smells. I have thoroughly cleaned the bilge last Fall, but it didn't
really change the odor issue.

Kent
SM243
KRISTY


Re: [Amel] Maramu Galley Sink Drain Question

karkauai
 

Hi, Howard,
That is how Amel does their grey water.  We have to be very careful on Kristy SM243 not to put any foodstuffs down the sink, but even so will get a funky smell from the bilge every few days even when we're not cooking...just from shower/sink drainage.  I put a little bleach and a little soap in each of the sinks and run it into the bilge, let it sit a while, then pump it out using the whale pump that takes almost all of the water out (rather than the electric pump that leaves a good bit in the bilge).  If I do that about twice a week I don't get any smell from the bilge, and I use the whale pump on a regular basis to keep it from drying out and make sure it works.
 
I'd be interested if anyone else has another solution to the grey water smells.  I have thoroughly cleaned the bilge last Fall, but it didn't really change the odor issue.
 
Kent
SM243
KRISTY

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Re: Autohelm 7000 low battery

Anne and John Hollamby <annejohnholl@...>
 

Hello Pat, You could take it to a local electronics guru and ask him to check the power transistors as these are the ones that make the connection to the 12 volt rudder drive.

Worth a try, John, SM319 Bali Hai

----- Original Message -----
From: sailw32@aol.com
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 2010 1:17 PM
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: Autohelm 7000 low battery



Richard, I have 24v going into the computer terminal but nothing coming out
to the motor.I figure the computer is responsible for making this happen,(
electric to flow out the other terminals to the motor.) I could send it
off to Ray Marine, but I suppose they would charge a fortune to fix it or
more likely tell me to replace it.
Thanks,Pat SM123


In a message dated 6/9/2010 6:57:08 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
richard03801@yahoo.com writes:

Hi Pat, did you check the power terminals to be sure the connections are
good at both ends?
You might also try a jumper between a good working 24 volt terminal set
and the 7000 to see if maybe there is a wire issue.
I'd do a lot more checking before looking for a replacement.$$$$
Good luck.
Richard and Joan on SM 209

________________________________
From: "_sailw32@aol.com_ (mailto:sailw32@aol.com) " <_sailw32@aol.com_
(mailto:sailw32@aol.com) >
To: _amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com_
(mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com)
Sent: Wed, June 9, 2010 6:46:22 AM
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: Autohelm 7000 low battery

I sprayed Corrosion X in all the terminals saturating the wire and
connections. The autohelm is still displaying a low battery message.I fear
I may
have to replace the computer. If anyone has any thoughts to anything else
the
problem may be, I would welcome their insight.

Thanks,Pat SM 123

In a message dated 6/3/2010 5:36:54 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
_mbidwell@attglobal.net_ (mailto:mbidwell@attglobal.net) writes:

I first came across Corrosion X in Trinidad where they told me that the
heavy duty Corrosion X was the only thing that would prevent rust on the
travel lift. I have used it ever since. Last week it brought a water pump
back to life. Unlike WD-40, Corrosion X is a good high pressure lubricant.
I agree with you that the stuff is great.

Miles Bidwell SM 216 (LADYBUG)

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Re: Autohelm 7000 low battery

Richard Piller <richard03801@...>
 

Hi Pat, did you check the power terminals to be sure the connections are good at both ends?
You might also try a jumper between a good working 24 volt terminal set and the 7000 to see if maybe there is a wire issue.
I'd do a lot more checking before looking for a replacement.$$$$
Good luck.
Richard and Joan on SM 209





________________________________
From: "sailw32@aol.com" <sailw32@aol.com>
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wed, June 9, 2010 6:46:22 AM
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: Autohelm 7000 low battery


I sprayed Corrosion X in all the terminals saturating the wire and
connections. The autohelm is still displaying a low battery message.I fear I may
have to replace the computer. If anyone has any thoughts to anything else the
problem may be, I would welcome their insight.

Thanks,Pat SM 123


In a message dated 6/3/2010 5:36:54 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
mbidwell@attglobal.net writes:

I first came across Corrosion X in Trinidad where they told me that the
heavy duty Corrosion X was the only thing that would prevent rust on the
travel lift. I have used it ever since. Last week it brought a water pump
back to life. Unlike WD-40, Corrosion X is a good high pressure lubricant.
I agree with you that the stuff is great.

Miles Bidwell SM 216 (LADYBUG)

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Re: Autohelm 7000 low battery

Patrick McAneny
 

Richard, I have 24v going into the computer terminal but nothing coming out
to the motor.I figure the computer is responsible for making this happen,(
electric to flow out the other terminals to the motor.) I could send it
off to Ray Marine, but I suppose they would charge a fortune to fix it or
more likely tell me to replace it.
Thanks,Pat SM123

In a message dated 6/9/2010 6:57:08 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
richard03801@yahoo.com writes:




Hi Pat, did you check the power terminals to be sure the connections are
good at both ends?
You might also try a jumper between a good working 24 volt terminal set
and the 7000 to see if maybe there is a wire issue.
I'd do a lot more checking before looking for a replacement.$$$$
Good luck.
Richard and Joan on SM 209

________________________________
From: "_sailw32@aol.com_ (mailto:sailw32@aol.com) " <_sailw32@aol.com_
(mailto:sailw32@aol.com) >
To: _amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com_
(mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com)
Sent: Wed, June 9, 2010 6:46:22 AM
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: Autohelm 7000 low battery

I sprayed Corrosion X in all the terminals saturating the wire and
connections. The autohelm is still displaying a low battery message.I fear
I may
have to replace the computer. If anyone has any thoughts to anything else
the
problem may be, I would welcome their insight.

Thanks,Pat SM 123

In a message dated 6/3/2010 5:36:54 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
_mbidwell@attglobal.net_ (mailto:mbidwell@attglobal.net) writes:

I first came across Corrosion X in Trinidad where they told me that the
heavy duty Corrosion X was the only thing that would prevent rust on the
travel lift. I have used it ever since. Last week it brought a water pump
back to life. Unlike WD-40, Corrosion X is a good high pressure lubricant.
I agree with you that the stuff is great.

Miles Bidwell SM 216 (LADYBUG)

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Re: Autohelm 7000 low battery

Patrick McAneny
 

I sprayed Corrosion X in all the terminals saturating the wire and
connections. The autohelm is still displaying a low battery message.I fear I may
have to replace the computer. If anyone has any thoughts to anything else the
problem may be, I would welcome their insight.

Thanks,Pat SM 123

In a message dated 6/3/2010 5:36:54 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
mbidwell@attglobal.net writes:




I first came across Corrosion X in Trinidad where they told me that the
heavy duty Corrosion X was the only thing that would prevent rust on the
travel lift. I have used it ever since. Last week it brought a water pump
back to life. Unlike WD-40, Corrosion X is a good high pressure lubricant.
I agree with you that the stuff is great.

Miles Bidwell SM 216 (LADYBUG)

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Maramu Galley Sink Drain Question

Howard Berger
 

We are installing new sinks in the galley on Maramu 144 and it looks like the boat as designed had them drain directly into the bilge. Is that correct? If so, I don't much care for it as I can envision food particles winding up there and rotting.

Would appreciate any feedback from other Maramu owners.

Regards,
Howard Berger
s/v JAZZ
Maramu 144


Re: [Amel] Plexiglass

Patrick McAneny
 

Tom, I replaced the two front windows in the cockpit a couple years ago. I
ordered the plexiglass online ,then used the old ones as a template and cut
them out with a saber saw. You need the cut slowly so not to melt the
plastic and use a very fine blade.Sand off the edges with probably 220 .I do
not remember what it cost me but I am sure it was less than $200. and maybe
4hrs. to fabricate. Good Luck,

Pat SM 123

In a message dated 6/8/2010 10:57:29 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
thomas.kleman@yahoo.com writes:




Don't know the source of the damage (new boat to us) but our plexiglass in
the cockpit is scratched/damaged in places. Looks like either UV or someone
went crazy with an abrasive compound. Anyone have a source for replicating
the four pieces ? I asked around my marina and was shocked at the prices I
heard.

THX- Tom and Kirstin on L'ORIENT SM2K #422





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Plexiglas

amelforme
 

The perceived scratching is actually very minute crazing caused by acid
rain, industrial pollution, putting wax on the plexi, using rain-x (read the
label.), and dry wiping the plexi, amongst a host of other things that can
cause this crazing. Wash your boat with a chlorine and particulate filter on
the hose, from Ace Hardware for about $50, and use plenty of water and a
microfiber wash bonnet with a soap specific to washing cars and/or boats.
Never a brush on the windows, ever.

Once they get crazed, you can polish the majority of it out but it will soon
return because once you polish off the original surface, the surface behind
it is much softer.
Yellow Page for Commercial grade Plexiglas supply and take the pieces to
them and have them duplicate everything including, especially, the mounting
holes. Last time I did some in Lauderdale it was slightly less than $1,000,
so it should not be too much more today.

All the best,
Joel F. Potter

Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist, LLC
Amel's Sole Associate for the Americas
Mailing Address: 401 East Las Olas Boulevard #130-126
Fort Lauderdale, Florida 33301
Phone: (954) 462-5869
Email: jfpottercys@att.net


Plexiglass

Thomas <thomas.kleman@...>
 

Don't know the source of the damage (new boat to us) but our plexiglass in the cockpit is scratched/damaged in places. Looks like either UV or someone went crazy with an abrasive compound. Anyone have a source for replicating the four pieces ? I asked around my marina and was shocked at the prices I heard.

THX- Tom and Kirstin on L'ORIENT SM2K #422


Re: [Amel] gain rudder

David Mackintosh <dlm48@...>
 

well rudder gain is a personal choice thing dependent on how tight a course
you want to hold and how much activity you want the autohelm to use and
power to consume..

regards

David

On 7 June 2010 15:12, eutikia2003 <gtesta23@tin.it> wrote:



Hi to all,
wich is your experience with Autohelm ST7001 plus > Dealer Calibration >
Rudder Gain ?
I had to replace my Course Computer and I found that the Rudder Gain value
was "2" !?
It was the first time I inspected the deep Dealer Calibration and I suppose
that it was the original setup, but now I'm wondering if a value "2" is
correct between 1 and 9.
Wich your opinons ?
Giovanni Testa
sv EUTIKIA SM2K n 428



gain rudder

Giovanni TESTA
 

Hi to all,
wich is your experience with Autohelm ST7001 plus > Dealer Calibration > Rudder Gain ?
I had to replace my Course Computer and I found that the Rudder Gain value was "2" !?
It was the first time I inspected the deep Dealer Calibration and I suppose that it was the original setup, but now I'm wondering if a value "2" is correct between 1 and 9.
Wich your opinons ?
Giovanni Testa
sv EUTIKIA SM2K n 428


Re: [Amel] SM anchor winch and chain.

David Mackintosh <dlm48@...>
 

Sounds good but you are assuming that the chain is not stretched - and
having seen how easy it was to bend the shank of a Wasi anchor and knowing
the displacement of an Amel i would be measuring the chain carefully before
i had it redipped Also we never use the cone clutch except when we are
using the drum when the cone clutch is fully off - we never stress the key
or keyway or have chain runaway as we drop the anchor using the down button
- surely that is what it is for???

regards

David


On 7 June 2010 09:55, hollambyuk <annejohnholl@gmail.com> wrote:



The keyways on the bronze cones do get worn but an engineer can easily mill
out a new keyway to make them as good as new. The chain is prone to jumping
on the gypsy as it is only touching two links at a time and this wears the
gypsy making the problem worse. Replace the gypsy if this problem becomes
serious.The cones, gypsy and shaft keyways get damaged/worn by a jumping
chain if the cones are not kept greased because without it the cones can
suddenly grab the gypsy when the chain does a runaway and puts huge loads on
the whole thing. I know because I have done it and was lucky to find a great
engineer in Croatia who repaired the damage.
I had my 80mtr chain regalvanised in Spain for about 180 Euros. After one
season it is still as good as new, The process is called hot dipping. The
chain is tied to a hoist with wire so that it is in short lenths about 3 or
4 metres long and then dipped into boiling liquid with zinc electrodes in
the cauldron and comes out looking like new except that there is a bit of
zinc build up at the bottom end of each link from gravity during the
suspension treatment.Not important.

Best wishes, Anne and John, Bali Hai, SM 319



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


SM anchor winch and chain.

hollambyuk <annejohnholl@...>
 

The keyways on the bronze cones do get worn but an engineer can easily mill out a new keyway to make them as good as new. The chain is prone to jumping on the gypsy as it is only touching two links at a time and this wears the gypsy making the problem worse. Replace the gypsy if this problem becomes serious.The cones, gypsy and shaft keyways get damaged/worn by a jumping chain if the cones are not kept greased because without it the cones can suddenly grab the gypsy when the chain does a runaway and puts huge loads on the whole thing. I know because I have done it and was lucky to find a great engineer in Croatia who repaired the damage.
I had my 80mtr chain regalvanised in Spain for about 180 Euros. After one season it is still as good as new, The process is called hot dipping. The chain is tied to a hoist with wire so that it is in short lenths about 3 or 4 metres long and then dipped into boiling liquid with zinc electrodes in the cauldron and comes out looking like new except that there is a bit of zinc build up at the bottom end of each link from gravity during the suspension treatment.Not important.

Best wishes, Anne and John, Bali Hai, SM 319


Air Conditioning Capacitors

hollambyuk <annejohnholl@...>
 

I must disagree. It is not always possible to see if a capacitor has died. Sometimes it is easy when the casing suffers a rupture but other times there is no visual indication.Capacitors are cheap and essential spares. Open up the A/C control box and list the specs of each and every one and get a complete set. They cost perhaps five euros each at an electronics shop or you can get them from Clima for 65euros each. If you use an a/c engineer he may well charge you the 65euros even though he has bought them at the electronics shop. I know this as I refused to get capacitors from the Clima Agent in Italy and then got ripped off for the Clima price in Spain by an independent mechanic. There are two sorts of capacitors, some have tabs on top to connect to spade type terminals and the other sort has short lenths of wire with terminals on the ends. Very easy to add these bits of wire to the terminal sort.
Change each capacitor in turn trying the unit after each change and thus track down the dud one.
Be warned, they are like batteries with a short life as they store electricity for a short while after being switched off So leave them be for a few minutes to discharge or if you like a spark put an insulated screwdriver across the terminals to make sure. It does not hurt them !
While you are at it list the specs of all the other capacitors and get spares, good shops are few and far between.

Good luck, John, Bali Hai SM 319


Re: [Amel] Sonic speed not working when motoring

David Mackintosh <dlm48@...>
 

Just as a WILD GUESS it could be that your gearbox and shaft are producing
electrical noise when they start to rotate.

Broken earth wire somewhere?????

regards

David

On 5 June 2010 10:23, banjaro2002 <willem.j.kroes@casema.nl> wrote:



Sonic speed gives a lot of surprises on my Amel Santorin. Every time the
boat was launched readings are different. So I had to adjust the spacing
knob in instument black box.
But now I experienced a very strange 'behaviour'of the instrument. When
motoring there is no reliable reading (light is out). When engine is
stopped, fine accurate readings and of course the light comes on.

When starting the engine (not in gear) the light stays on, but goes out
when putting the gear on.

Is there anybody who can give me a clue were to look?

Willem J. Kroes

Amel Santorin # 69 "Kavanga"



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Sonic speed not working when motoring

SweetBlood <sweetblood@...>
 

----- Original Message -----
From: banjaro2002
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, June 05, 2010 11:23 AM
Subject: [Amel] Sonic speed not working when motoring



Sonic speed gives a lot of surprises on my Amel Santorin. Every time the boat was launched readings are different. So I had to adjust the spacing knob in instument black box.
But now I experienced a very strange 'behaviour'of the instrument. When motoring there is no reliable reading (light is out). When engine is stopped, fine accurate readings and of course the light comes on.

When starting the engine (not in gear) the light stays on, but goes out when putting the gear on.

Is there anybody who can give me a clue were to look?

Willem J. Kroes

Amel Santorin # 69 "Kavanga"






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