Date   

[Amel] Mast Painting Paint Code

bootlegger@...
 

Graham

Would you happen to know if the quoted Renault White 348 as used on the
Sharki masts is the same paint code Amel applied on the Super Maramu 2000?

Frank Newton
SM 2K 321 'Bootlegger of Mann'

For those who may be considering re-painting or making repairs to the
mast/boom paintwork.

Renault White 348 is the paint code that I believe to be correct. It
certainly matches the existing colour on our 1989 Sharki very closely.


I had to both prepare and paint our masts and booms outside in the UK in
October of last year in between rain showers and gales, so although a two
pack finish would have been preferred I did not have the conditions to
apply it. As a result I used Seajet 017 Epoxy Bonding Prima for Alloys and
a fast, air drying, drying roller applied enamel originally manufactured
for painting plant and machinery.

I found that other than where the original paint had flaked off, usually
around fittings or welds etc, that the original coating was still in very
good condition and very well adhered to the aluminium substrate. The
surface was very chalky which required de-greasing and sanding to provide
a key for the new coating doing so proved to be unusual in that the
surface would sand easily but return to a semi gloss with the wipe of a
cloth. My paint guru suggested a ceramic epoxy perhaps? I have no idea but
the new stuff seems to have stuck pretty well.

The final gloss finish is excellent but obviously it is not as hard as a
two pack, an advantage over a two pack though is that the enamel is touch
dry in 20 minutes and is very easy to touch up and blend in should it be
necessary. So far the finish has withstood the worst winter in the UK for
30 years and a good soaking up in the Outer Hebrides this summer. I am
hoping it lasts for another 10 years, we shall see!

Regards Graham
Sharki 181 `Zephyr'



Re: [Amel] B&G Sonic Speed sensor and "the barnacle"

Giovanni TESTA
 

Bill,
I have contacted the main B&G support in Viareggio.
They told me that the neoprene extension is mainly for protection of the transducer.
For now you can sail but you have to keep it cleaned, obviously with great attention.
The technician was working and sailing out of laboratory...in these days there is a lot of work, but he told me that as soon as possible, with the trasducer in his hands, he could check how to re-attach the extension under water..if possible.
Ciao
Gianni

----- Original Message -----
From: Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, August 09, 2010 2:15 AM
Subject: Re: [Amel] B&G Sonic Speed sensor and "the barnacle"





Richard,

It is the upper hull-mount sensor i.e the rear facing sensor.

Bill
s/v BeBe

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Richard03801 <richard03801@...> wrote:
>
> Bill this looks like the lens and and cover. Can or will you please confirm that your photo is from the "upper" hull mount sensor and not the keel unit. I think if it is the upper you can access-it from the forward cabin. If it is the keel you most likely have a big job on your hands. We have an SM and getting to the keel unit would be a major pain to the point that I'd consider putting in a new speed and water temp unit in place of the forward sensor. I know it's not Amel but given your current location well we all do what we have to do. In any case we would NOT go to sea w/0 a fix or at least fast expoxie on the hole and deal with later. Good luck.
> Regards
> Richard Piller
>
>






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Mast Painting Paint Code etc

GrahamJohnston42 <grahamjohnston42@yahoo.com>
 

For those who may be considering re-painting or making repairs to the mast/boom paintwork.

Renault White 348 is the paint code that I believe to be correct. It certainly matches the existing colour on our 1989 Sharki very closely.


I had to both prepare and paint our masts and booms outside in the UK in October of last year in between rain showers and gales, so although a two pack finish would have been preferred I did not have the conditions to apply it. As a result I used Seajet 017 Epoxy Bonding Prima for Alloys and a fast, air drying, drying roller applied enamel originally manufactured for painting plant and machinery.

I found that other than where the original paint had flaked off, usually around fittings or welds etc, that the original coating was still in very good condition and very well adhered to the aluminium substrate. The surface was very chalky which required de-greasing and sanding to provide a key for the new coating doing so proved to be unusual in that the surface would sand easily but return to a semi gloss with the wipe of a cloth. My paint guru suggested a ceramic epoxy perhaps? I have no idea but the new stuff seems to have stuck pretty well.

The final gloss finish is excellent but obviously it is not as hard as a two pack, an advantage over a two pack though is that the enamel is touch dry in 20 minutes and is very easy to touch up and blend in should it be necessary. So far the finish has withstood the worst winter in the UK for 30 years and a good soaking up in the Outer Hebrides this summer. I am hoping it lasts for another 10 years, we shall see!

Regards Graham
Sharki 181 `Zephyr'


Re: [Amel] B&G Sonic Speed sensor and "the barnacle"

Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
 

I guess that settles that so much for the eyeball test on this one.

Regards
Richard Piller

On Aug 9, 2010, at 3:07, "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe" <yahoogroups@svbebe.com> wrote:

FYI, I received the following email from Boris COMPAGNON at Amel After Service:

"The rubber bumper you have in hands is just a protection cover of the sensor. If this not in place, you may find the sensor disturbed while sailing...The informartions may be wrong.

You can reglue it.

There is no access for this sensor from inside the boat."

Best,

Bill
s/v BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently Malaysia

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe" <yahoogroups@...> wrote:




Richard,

It is the upper hull-mount sensor i.e the rear facing sensor.

Bill
s/v BeBe

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Richard03801 <richard03801@> wrote:

Bill this looks like the lens and and cover. Can or will you please confirm that your photo is from the "upper" hull mount sensor and not the keel unit. I think if it is the upper you can access-it from the forward cabin. If it is the keel you most likely have a big job on your hands. We have an SM and getting to the keel unit would be a major pain to the point that I'd consider putting in a new speed and water temp unit in place of the forward sensor. I know it's not Amel but given your current location well we all do what we have to do. In any case we would NOT go to sea w/0 a fix or at least fast expoxie on the hole and deal with later. Good luck.
Regards
Richard Piller


Re: [Amel] B&G Sonic Speed sensor and "the barnacle"

Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
 

Bill in the forward cabin there is a through hull sending unit for the speed sensor
You can remove it ( be sure to have a wood plug to fit the hole) and replace the unit. I simply don't know If the "seawater" sensor comes out with it. I seem to "think and that is always dangerous" it does. The other question can you get the needed replacement parts locally I think Amel is closed for summer French holidays. I will see if I can find a solution here in Annapolis. There
Must be a BG dealer here that knows.
Regards
Richard Piller

On Aug 8, 2010, at 20:15, "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe" <yahoogroups@svbebe.com> wrote:



Richard,

It is the upper hull-mount sensor i.e the rear facing sensor.

Bill
s/v BeBe

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Richard03801 <richard03801@...> wrote:

Bill this looks like the lens and and cover. Can or will you please confirm that your photo is from the "upper" hull mount sensor and not the keel unit. I think if it is the upper you can access-it from the forward cabin. If it is the keel you most likely have a big job on your hands. We have an SM and getting to the keel unit would be a major pain to the point that I'd consider putting in a new speed and water temp unit in place of the forward sensor. I know it's not Amel but given your current location well we all do what we have to do. In any case we would NOT go to sea w/0 a fix or at least fast expoxie on the hole and deal with later. Good luck.
Regards
Richard Piller


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] B&G Sonic Speed sensor and "the barnacle"

Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
 

FYI, I received the following email from Boris COMPAGNON at Amel After Service:

"The rubber bumper you have in hands is just a protection cover of the sensor. If this not in place, you may find the sensor disturbed while sailing...The informartions may be wrong.

You can reglue it.

There is no access for this sensor from inside the boat."

Best,

Bill
s/v BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently Malaysia

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe" <yahoogroups@...> wrote:




Richard,

It is the upper hull-mount sensor i.e the rear facing sensor.

Bill
s/v BeBe

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Richard03801 <richard03801@> wrote:

Bill this looks like the lens and and cover. Can or will you please confirm that your photo is from the "upper" hull mount sensor and not the keel unit. I think if it is the upper you can access-it from the forward cabin. If it is the keel you most likely have a big job on your hands. We have an SM and getting to the keel unit would be a major pain to the point that I'd consider putting in a new speed and water temp unit in place of the forward sensor. I know it's not Amel but given your current location well we all do what we have to do. In any case we would NOT go to sea w/0 a fix or at least fast expoxie on the hole and deal with later. Good luck.
Regards
Richard Piller


New file uploaded to amelyachtowners

amelyachtowners@...
 

Hello,

This email message is a notification to let you know that
a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the amelyachtowners
group.

File : /B & G Sonic Speed Information/SonicSpeedInformation.pdf
Uploaded by : amelliahona
Description :

You can access this file at the URL:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/files/B%20%26%20G%20Sonic%20Speed%20Information/SonicSpeedInformation.pdf

To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit:
http://help.yahoo.com/l/us/yahoo/groups/original/members/forms/general.htmlfiles

Regards,

amelliahona


Re: [Amel] Electrical Cable Replacement in Main Mast

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

By way of follow up on this project:

The 24 meter cable as supplied by B&G as part of the masthead receptacle is
indeed long enough for the job on the Amel SM 2000. The wires go to a junction
box in the wire chase above the forward cabin companionway. They thread up into
the mast from inside the boat, whereupon the wire makes a rather sharp "S" turn
in the base of the mast, and then proceeds up the mast. You need to remove the mast
access cover on the starboard side of the main mast base (two screws) and have
someone feed the cable from the mast base while you pull the cable up and out of the mast.

Tie a messenger line to the cable as you you remove it so you can thread the new
cable into place. Amel left three spare messenger lines in the mast just in case.
The job was quick and relatively easy.

As noted, in the B & G owners manual it says to coat the receptacle with silicone
grease to prevent corrosion. This I have done both to the front and back side of
the receptacle. I suspect dissimilar metal corrosion between the stainless steel
mounting bracket, the aluminum receptacle and the mild steel retaining nut.
To help prevent this, I treated everything with Lanacoat prior to re-assembly.
I will let you all know in 8 years if that treatment worked.

I do remove my masthead indicator during the times I am off the boat, which is
about 9 months of the year.

All the best to you great Amel owners,

Gary Silver
SM 2000
Hull # 335
"Liahona"

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "murray k. seidel" <mseidel@...> wrote:

Dear Gary and amel owners- My Masthead b&g stopped working last year. We
went up the mast and could not unscrew the mast or pylon from the mast head
. The mast I believe is not grounded so the entire apparatus for wind
speed/direction corroded. I sent it to the B&G repair place in Flda. He has
seen other amel B&G's like this . We were able to pull a new cable through
and remove the old one. The more pressing point is that B&G recommended
taking the pylon or strut off by unscrewing it and putting silicone grease
on it or any other suitable lube or the entire insides will corrode like
Sundance 's sm349. Get ready to replace it all. Very expensive lesson to
learn. Can easily be done dockside with two people. It does attach to the
wire attachment point in the box on the bulkhead near the forward head. Make
a drawing of what colored wires go where. Bennett bros. Yachts did the with
me in Wilmington dockside. Murray Seidel. 910-470-1225



From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of amelliahona
Sent: Sunday, December 20, 2009 8:25 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel] Electrical Cable Replacement in Main Mast





Hi Ian and Judy:
Thanks for that information. Please confirm a couple of other items for me
if you would:
1. Is the 24 meter cable long enough?
2. Am I correct that the cable goes to a junction box in the wire chase
above the forward cabin companionway?
As always, thanks a bunch.

Gary

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , Ian & Judy Jenkins
<ianjudyjenkins@> wrote:


Hi Gary, I had the same problem on my SM2000, no. 302, launched June 2000,
and you will be pleased to hear that the cables were all separate. Cheers,
Ian and Judy, Pen Azen.

To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
From: no_reply@yahoogroups.com <mailto:no_reply%40yahoogroups.com>
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 2009 15:16:01 +0000
Subject: [Amel] Electrical Cable Replacement in Main Mast

Hello All:

I am just back from getting Liahona recommissioned after hurricane
storage ashore in Antigua. During refitting of the mast-head B & G Type 213
wind meter at the main mast-head I discovered that the aluminum threaded
socket into which it threads, was cracked and I could not screw the wind
instrument mast into it. I will post a photo of this failure mode in the
photo's section.

The plug (B & G PN 178-0B-001, Plug, Bracket and 24 meter cable) can be
replaced at a cost of approx. US$ 375.00 but has a 24 meter integral cable
that must be chased down the mast. It appears that the cable comes to a
junction box in the wire chase above the forward head hallway. My question
to you knowledgeable members is this: are the cables in the mast tie wrapped
together by Amel when the boat is manufactured, which will prevent pulling
the new cable in using the old cable as a messenger line OR are all cables
threaded separately? My hope is to use the old cable to pull the new cable.
Any prior experience or info from Joel or the factory would be appreciated.

Best to all, Gary Silver Amel SM2000 Hull # 335



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links


__________________________________________________________
Have more than one Hotmail account? Link them together to easily access
both
http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/186394591/direct/01/








Re: [Amel] B&G Sonic Speed sensor and "the barnacle"

Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
 

Richard,

It is the upper hull-mount sensor i.e the rear facing sensor.

Bill
s/v BeBe

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Richard03801 <richard03801@...> wrote:

Bill this looks like the lens and and cover. Can or will you please confirm that your photo is from the "upper" hull mount sensor and not the keel unit. I think if it is the upper you can access-it from the forward cabin. If it is the keel you most likely have a big job on your hands. We have an SM and getting to the keel unit would be a major pain to the point that I'd consider putting in a new speed and water temp unit in place of the forward sensor. I know it's not Amel but given your current location well we all do what we have to do. In any case we would NOT go to sea w/0 a fix or at least fast expoxie on the hole and deal with later. Good luck.
Regards
Richard Piller


Re: [Amel] B&G Sonic Speed sensor and "the barnacle"

Giovanni TESTA
 

Hi Bill,
go to http://www.bandg.com/upload/BandG/Documents/Manuals/sonicinstall.pdf
It is a Manual we have not normally on board. There is a sketch of the sensor and of its neoprene cap.
Tomorrow - today is Sunday- I'll call to a local dealer I know for help.
All the best
Gianni
sv EUTIKIA

----- Original Message -----
From: Richard03801
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, August 08, 2010 5:03 PM
Subject: Re: [Amel] B&G Sonic Speed sensor and "the barnacle"



Bill this looks like the lens and and cover. Can or will you please confirm that your photo is from the "upper" hull mount sensor and not the keel unit. I think if it is the upper you can access-it from the forward cabin. If it is the keel you most likely have a big job on your hands. We have an SM and getting to the keel unit would be a major pain to the point that I'd consider putting in a new speed and water temp unit in place of the forward sensor. I know it's not Amel but given your current location well we all do what we have to do. In any case we would NOT go to sea w/0 a fix or at least fast expoxie on the hole and deal with later. Good luck.
Regards
Richard Piller

On Aug 8, 2010, at 9:44, David Mackintosh <sv.highland.fling@gmail.com> wrote:

> at a wild guess it is probably a lens/sensor protector
>
> regards
>
> David
>
> On 8 August 2010 13:54, Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@svbebe.com
>> wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> Boat stories can really be unreal. Here is one of those...
>>
>> A short time ago we noticed that the sonic speed was not working. I
>> suspected fouling on the sensors. Today we were preparing to leave for
>> Singapore and I put on scuba gear to clean the propeller and check the hull.
>> I found only a single barnacle on the hull...it was on the rear facing sonic
>> speed sensor. I gripped the barnacle and pulled. Something came off with the
>> barnacle...see photo at
>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/1217837093/pic/534911356/view?picmode=&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc
>>
>> I do not know yet if the speed sensor is working because we have not left
>> the dock, but the red light on the sonic speed computer is on, indicating
>> that it is working; and the Hydra FFD is showing several 10ths of a knot
>> which is likely the tidal drift.
>>
>> I am not sure what I am dealing with here. Can anyone tell me where the
>> sensor is accessed from inside the boat? Is this piece a piece of the
>> sensor, or some sort of plug?
>>
>> Any input and suggestions would be appreciated.
>>
>> Best,
>>
>> Bill
>> s/v BeBe, SM2k, #387
>> Currently Malaysia
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>





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Re: [Amel] B&G Sonic Speed sensor and "the barnacle"

Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
 

Bill this looks like the lens and and cover. Can or will you please confirm that your photo is from the "upper" hull mount sensor and not the keel unit. I think if it is the upper you can access-it from the forward cabin. If it is the keel you most likely have a big job on your hands. We have an SM and getting to the keel unit would be a major pain to the point that I'd consider putting in a new speed and water temp unit in place of the forward sensor. I know it's not Amel but given your current location well we all do what we have to do. In any case we would NOT go to sea w/0 a fix or at least fast expoxie on the hole and deal with later. Good luck.
Regards
Richard Piller

On Aug 8, 2010, at 9:44, David Mackintosh <sv.highland.fling@gmail.com> wrote:

at a wild guess it is probably a lens/sensor protector

regards

David

On 8 August 2010 13:54, Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@svbebe.com
wrote:


Boat stories can really be unreal. Here is one of those...

A short time ago we noticed that the sonic speed was not working. I
suspected fouling on the sensors. Today we were preparing to leave for
Singapore and I put on scuba gear to clean the propeller and check the hull.
I found only a single barnacle on the hull...it was on the rear facing sonic
speed sensor. I gripped the barnacle and pulled. Something came off with the
barnacle...see photo at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/1217837093/pic/534911356/view?picmode=&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc

I do not know yet if the speed sensor is working because we have not left
the dock, but the red light on the sonic speed computer is on, indicating
that it is working; and the Hydra FFD is showing several 10ths of a knot
which is likely the tidal drift.

I am not sure what I am dealing with here. Can anyone tell me where the
sensor is accessed from inside the boat? Is this piece a piece of the
sensor, or some sort of plug?

Any input and suggestions would be appreciated.

Best,

Bill
s/v BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently Malaysia







------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links



Re: [Amel] B&G Sonic Speed sensor and "the barnacle"

David Mackintosh <sv.highland.fling@...>
 

at a wild guess it is probably a lens/sensor protector

regards

David

On 8 August 2010 13:54, Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@svbebe.com
wrote:


Boat stories can really be unreal. Here is one of those...

A short time ago we noticed that the sonic speed was not working. I
suspected fouling on the sensors. Today we were preparing to leave for
Singapore and I put on scuba gear to clean the propeller and check the hull.
I found only a single barnacle on the hull...it was on the rear facing sonic
speed sensor. I gripped the barnacle and pulled. Something came off with the
barnacle...see photo at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/1217837093/pic/534911356/view?picmode=&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc

I do not know yet if the speed sensor is working because we have not left
the dock, but the red light on the sonic speed computer is on, indicating
that it is working; and the Hydra FFD is showing several 10ths of a knot
which is likely the tidal drift.

I am not sure what I am dealing with here. Can anyone tell me where the
sensor is accessed from inside the boat? Is this piece a piece of the
sensor, or some sort of plug?

Any input and suggestions would be appreciated.

Best,

Bill
s/v BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently Malaysia



B&G Sonic Speed sensor and "the barnacle"

Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
 

Boat stories can really be unreal. Here is one of those...

A short time ago we noticed that the sonic speed was not working. I suspected fouling on the sensors. Today we were preparing to leave for Singapore and I put on scuba gear to clean the propeller and check the hull. I found only a single barnacle on the hull...it was on the rear facing sonic speed sensor. I gripped the barnacle and pulled. Something came off with the barnacle...see photo at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/1217837093/pic/534911356/view?picmode=&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc

I do not know yet if the speed sensor is working because we have not left the dock, but the red light on the sonic speed computer is on, indicating that it is working; and the Hydra FFD is showing several 10ths of a knot which is likely the tidal drift.

I am not sure what I am dealing with here. Can anyone tell me where the sensor is accessed from inside the boat? Is this piece a piece of the sensor, or some sort of plug?

Any input and suggestions would be appreciated.

Best,

Bill
s/v BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently Malaysia


Re: [Amel] Re: We have just bought our Santorin 1992 - few questions...

Lars H. Knudsen <museum@...>
 

Hi Belit



I have Santorin #79 from 1993 with a Perkins Prima 50 HP. If we go for sail and motor I light conditions I will set it at 1400-1800 RPM and this gives 6-7,5 knots depending on the wind.



For motor alone I seldom go over 2.000 RPM and depending on conditions this typically gives around 5,5-6 knots.

At 1.600 RPM the motor will burn around 2 liters per hour. I never run it at over 2.400 RPM as the extra fuel consummation is probably only wasted.



Have a look in the former postings – there is a lot of information on paint, tools and procedure for repainting the false teak. Mine is still okay but I am considering repainting the dark strips in the cockpit.



Regards,

Lars, Santorin Salvagny

Currently Tunisia.



Fra: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com [mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] På vegne af Belit Bh
Sendt: 24. juli 2010 20:23
Til: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Emne: Re: [Amel] Re: We have just bought our Santorin 1992 - few questions...





Thanks for the info Richard, Ric and Deborah,

As per the engine / prop - anymore feedbacks as well as any experience with
modifiation of propeller? as well, what is the recommended cruising RPM for such
engine original (Perkins)

Aircondition???

As per the sensor - it doesn't look broken, only that the housing is a bit
deformed could water come in? can i just fill around?

As per the side in Greece - we are East currently.

The deep scratch - will take this as deep scrath to be patched.

The keel - I take this as to only patch if at all, did not see serious rust.

Thanks, Belit

________________________________
From: Richard03801 <richard03801@yahoo.com <mailto:richard03801%40yahoo.com> >
To: "amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> " <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> >
Sent: Sat, July 24, 2010 2:16:32 AM
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: We have just bought our Santorin 1992 - few questions...


Hi regarding the speed censor what ever side he broke needs to be repaired
before going in. It is suggest you remove and clean the area block off out side
fill the hole with barrier type epoxie drill a new hole at the same angle to be
sure the two censors are in alining properly. Do not take any short cuts with
this fix. If you are not comfortable ask Amel for send a man to do it and have
him bring the parts along.

You will find info on this site regarding painting the decks.

The copper and the crack w/o see it can't help you.

Regarding the keal it is cover with gelcoat type material if you blast it away
read the West Systems web site for the fix which is 15 coats of barrier coat to.
Keep it from leaking and rusting. Better you clean it up and better assess the
problem. If you need to do some work sand clean and coat with epoxy and barrier
coat right away do not let light rust start or it will not bond

Good luck And while it is out and dry check for blister and fix them per West
SYS N
Regards
Richard Piller

On Jul 23, 2010, at 13:44, "deborah" <woodsdeborah_56@yahoo.co.uk <mailto:woodsdeborah_56%40yahoo.co.uk> > wrote:

Hi

Is it East coast of Greece or West? We have a few contacts in the West if this
would be of any help


Regards

Deb and John
Orion1 (Maramu)

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , Belit Bh <belitbh@...> wrote:

Hi,
We have just bought our Santorin 1992 hull #69 last week and we have put her
on

dry for couple of months. We have few questions on issues we have observed
and

wanted to have some good advice from Amel owners; sorry for asking all this
at

once but it will be understood if will get answers in pieces…:
1.     When hauled out, unfortunately the crane operator chose to ignore
our

directions and put the strip over the sonic speed sensor â€" not sure if any
damage but seem like the cover has smashed a bit in a way it created some
space

between the sensor and the cover â€"

a. can water come in the boat from there when relaunching?
b. should the gap created be filled with polyester?
2.     We have also observed a vertical scratch on the ‘wing’
holding the

rudder just below the lower spindle going down â€" I wouldn’t spend time to
ask o
this unless the scratch is just parallel to copper line which was revealed,
is

there a specific sensitivity in this area? Or just a scratch to be covered
with

polyester?
3.     The engine is the original and seems to be ok, never overhauled
with

approx 2,500hrs, the only thing it appears to be a bit lazy with speed of 5
knots in flat see (2,900-3,000 rpm).

a. what is the recommended highest rpm for cruising?
b. will change of prop or pitch will lead to better result (it looks like the
prop is designed for more power rather than speed)?
4.     To clean the bilge area, any problem to use the chemicals for
this

purpose?
5.     I would like to add an air condition for the next summer â€"
16btu for aft

and main cabin sounds ok?
6.     The false teak deck needs attention â€" which paint? What
method?
7.     Should the iron keel be sand blasted after sometime? Our iron
piece

doesn’t look smooth and it might time for it â€" any tips?
8.     Last question â€" any recommendation for good boat yard Greece to
perform

repairs?
Â
Otherwise we very happy with our Santorin.




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Re: [Amel] Bow Locker Drain, Dinghies, Outboards, Grills

john martin <symoondog@...>
 

I agree with Richard. I carry two outboards - a 3 and a 5 horsepower, both 2 cycle Yamahas. You can find parts all over the world. The 9.9 HP is the same weight and size as the 15 Hp. This is the size that is stolen the most. I've never seen a fisherman use a 3 HP motor, hence they are stolen only by other cruisers. I can lay my outboard on its side or upside down if I want to. The 4 cycle has a crankcase and I'd worry about oil spilling. My wife and I easily get the outboards off the dinghy and onto the boat from the stern steps. I carry a small dinghy (8.5 ft) for the small outboard when I'm alone or its just the 2 of us on board. We also have an 11' dinghy that is very light and easily handled by two people. We don't have davits so when moving between anchorages, we either put the dinghy on the foredeck, on top of the aft cabin roof, or sometimes just pull it halfway up the stern (both of them fit just exactly between the aft fixed stanchions). Carrying a spare outboad and dinghy makes good sense when you are off to distant places just in case you lose one and not in a place you can buy another one. Think about being in the Tuamotus when you lose your only dinghy. My advice is to get a small engine, aren't you cruising? I will never understand why a person will sail at 6-8 knots for thousands of miles to get to paradise and a quiet life, and then have to speed around in his dinghy at 25 knots to go a half-mile to the shore.

John
MOON DOG
SM # 248


To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
From: richard03801@yahoo.com
Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2010 08:15:56 -0400
Subject: Re: [Amel] Bow Locker Drain, Dinghies, Outboards, Grills






Kent the the leak in more then likely to be the " pipe hole " for the chain under the windlass. You can access it from the port side locker. You'll find a ware hold from the chain. The fix is to 5200 a SS half pipe to guide the chain.

We use an Aquapro 10 footer with an alum bottom and push it with a 2 or a 6 up four stroke my wife can start both.

We have used a real BarQ with charcoal it works verywell.

Regards
Richard Piller

On Aug 4, 2010, at 11:09, "Kent Robertson" <karkauai@yahoo.com> wrote:

Hi, all. Hope you're all having a good summer (or winter, as the case may be). I've got some questions about which I'd like your opinions.

Bow Locker Drains:
I'm accumulating salt water in the bow lockers. Finally got around to removing the drain plug and buggered it up enough in the process that it'll have to be replaced. The seals seem to be in good shape and I can't see where else the water would be getting in. Any ideas? Also wondered why I'd want to put the plug in anyway...only thing I can think of is that water could get in from the chain locker if the boat was holed. That wouldn't happen until the bow was down quite a bit, but I guess it could make a difference.

Dinghies:
I bought a lite-wt dink from W. Marine last Fall, but it's so lightly built that it's not safe (I can go into detail if you like). I want to get a 10 ft. RIB that's tough enough to withstand the cruising life, but as light weight as possible. I want a fairly dry ride in a chop. I'm adding davits this Summer if that makes a difference. I'm interested in your experiences and thoughts about dinks you've had..what not to buy, what's been a great one, etc.

Outboards:
I have 2006 15HP and 6HP Honda 4-stroke outboards that came with the boat. The 15 is very heavy. Neither has been reliable and parts/mechanics have been hard to find in Galveston and the Caribbean. My girlfriend can't pull-start the 15. I'm thinking about getting a 10HP, or a 15 and a smaller one. Thinking I'll get 2-stroke instead of 4 because of the weight issue. What are your thoughts about electric starting for outboards? 2-stroke vs 4-stroke? Brands that are easy to find parts for and mechanics to work on them around the world?

BBQ Grills:
I bought a Magna propane grille ~14" in diameter that won't stay lit in any kind of a breeze. I'm going to buy something else, but am kind of gun shy about spending $3-400 on one that I don't know anything about. Again, would like to know what you've tried and found works well, and what you've found that you'd recommend I NOT get.

Thanks in advance for your advice.
Kent
KRISTY
SM 243

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Re: [Amel] Bow Locker Drain, Dinghies, Outboards, Grills

Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
 

Kent the the leak in more then likely to be the " pipe hole " for the chain under the windlass. You can access it from the port side locker. You'll find a ware hold from the chain. The fix is to 5200 a SS half pipe to guide the chain.

We use an Aquapro 10 footer with an alum bottom and push it with a 2 or a 6 up four stroke my wife can start both.

We have used a real BarQ with charcoal it works verywell.

Regards
Richard Piller

On Aug 4, 2010, at 11:09, "Kent Robertson" <karkauai@yahoo.com> wrote:

Hi, all. Hope you're all having a good summer (or winter, as the case may be). I've got some questions about which I'd like your opinions.

Bow Locker Drains:
I'm accumulating salt water in the bow lockers. Finally got around to removing the drain plug and buggered it up enough in the process that it'll have to be replaced. The seals seem to be in good shape and I can't see where else the water would be getting in. Any ideas? Also wondered why I'd want to put the plug in anyway...only thing I can think of is that water could get in from the chain locker if the boat was holed. That wouldn't happen until the bow was down quite a bit, but I guess it could make a difference.

Dinghies:
I bought a lite-wt dink from W. Marine last Fall, but it's so lightly built that it's not safe (I can go into detail if you like). I want to get a 10 ft. RIB that's tough enough to withstand the cruising life, but as light weight as possible. I want a fairly dry ride in a chop. I'm adding davits this Summer if that makes a difference. I'm interested in your experiences and thoughts about dinks you've had..what not to buy, what's been a great one, etc.

Outboards:
I have 2006 15HP and 6HP Honda 4-stroke outboards that came with the boat. The 15 is very heavy. Neither has been reliable and parts/mechanics have been hard to find in Galveston and the Caribbean. My girlfriend can't pull-start the 15. I'm thinking about getting a 10HP, or a 15 and a smaller one. Thinking I'll get 2-stroke instead of 4 because of the weight issue. What are your thoughts about electric starting for outboards? 2-stroke vs 4-stroke? Brands that are easy to find parts for and mechanics to work on them around the world?

BBQ Grills:
I bought a Magna propane grille ~14" in diameter that won't stay lit in any kind of a breeze. I'm going to buy something else, but am kind of gun shy about spending $3-400 on one that I don't know anything about. Again, would like to know what you've tried and found works well, and what you've found that you'd recommend I NOT get.

Thanks in advance for your advice.
Kent
KRISTY
SM 243


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Bow

Conn Williamson <connwilliamson@...>
 

We Just bought a Kumar BBQ. It has an adjustable air intake for windy
conditions. Works very well, we also got a hot plate that sits inside ( has flat
on 1 side and ribbed on the other) you can not cook eggs on a grill !. It cooks
really well with the lid closed if it's windy and the hot plate takes a lot of
time to heat up, so I close the lid. On Outboards I have a new 9.8 Tohatsu on
our Avon rib, they are light, and start easy as on the first pull. On Davits, go
strong not cheap. See photo of our one, with barbi as well....Cheers Conn..sv
Jasmyn.    




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Rép. : [Amel] Re: Bow Locker Drain, Dinghies, Outboards, Grills

Serge Tremblay <laetitiaii@...>
 

Dink: Started with a fiberglass dink 9 ft, evolved to a Achilles 11 ft, 3 hypalon tubes with a plywood floor and now i have a Bombard 11ft, hypalon tubes with a sturdy fiberglass floor.
 
Outboard (2 cycles): Started with 15 hp Mercury, then 9 hp Mercury, stolen, it was replaced by a 5 hp Mariner. I now have a 4 hp Yamaha and a 3.3 Mariner. I am tempted to replace the Yamaha 4hp with a 8 or 9 hp , however i hesitate, after having been cought alone having to raise a 9 hp in a 6 ft swell crashing in Atwood Harbour in the Bahamas in 1988... but the 2 cylinder power is usefull for long distance in calm waters. The 15 hp is attractive (not much difference in weight with the 9 hp, but seems to guzzle gas twice as fast, even at low speed?)!
 
BBQ: Started with charcoal similar to Magma, but 5 years ago evolved to a large Dickinson mounted on the aft railing, port side , it is fed from a  dedicated butane tank (identical to that feeding the galley range), situated in the lazarette. Works fine at anchor in winds up to 15kt or at sea when it is calm; never tried it in stronger winds and since it is not gimballed -never  used it when  seriously heeling.
 
Serge, Mango #51


Re: Bow Locker Drain, Dinghies, Outboards, Grills

Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
 

Kent,

Dinghies and Outboards:
We have an AB 3.2m aluminum hull dink. This will fit sideways (at an angle) on the mizzen deck for passages. If it was about 1 foot shorter, it would fit better. We have a Mercury 15hp 2 cycle outboard. We have had occasion to secure the dink on the quarter as a tug and moved the boat in fairly calm waters about 4 miles with speed at 3kts using the dink. When cruising to other countries, it is the 2 cycle that is ubiquitous and easy to find parts and repair. We hoist the motor onto and off the dink using a halyard from the starboard side of the mizzen and the mizzen boom block near the end of the boom. Most people who choose 4 cycle do so for fuel economy or other green reasons. Most people who chose 2 cycle do so for weight. Experienced cruisers buy 2 cycle and damn the environment.

Grills:
Most people talk of changing what they have, regardless of what they have. We have a Magna round grill. It seems to work fine in wind up to about 12-15kts. You might check the point on the grill where air is mixed with gas. Our Magna has a small stainless steel shroud that covers this near the point where I connect the gas hose. If I leave it pushed back, the grill will blow out. Also, mine is plumbed to a gas tank rather than a throw-away tank.

I cannot comment on the lockers as ours are dry.

Best,

Bill
s/v BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently Malaysia, waiting on the Monsoon coming in Dec.
Blog: http://www.svbebe.com

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Kent Robertson" <karkauai@...> wrote:

Hi, all. Hope you're all having a good summer (or winter, as the case may be). I've got some questions about which I'd like your opinions.

Bow Locker Drains:
I'm accumulating salt water in the bow lockers. Finally got around to removing the drain plug and buggered it up enough in the process that it'll have to be replaced. The seals seem to be in good shape and I can't see where else the water would be getting in. Any ideas? Also wondered why I'd want to put the plug in anyway...only thing I can think of is that water could get in from the chain locker if the boat was holed. That wouldn't happen until the bow was down quite a bit, but I guess it could make a difference.

Dinghies:
I bought a lite-wt dink from W. Marine last Fall, but it's so lightly built that it's not safe (I can go into detail if you like). I want to get a 10 ft. RIB that's tough enough to withstand the cruising life, but as light weight as possible. I want a fairly dry ride in a chop. I'm adding davits this Summer if that makes a difference. I'm interested in your experiences and thoughts about dinks you've had..what not to buy, what's been a great one, etc.

Outboards:
I have 2006 15HP and 6HP Honda 4-stroke outboards that came with the boat. The 15 is very heavy. Neither has been reliable and parts/mechanics have been hard to find in Galveston and the Caribbean. My girlfriend can't pull-start the 15. I'm thinking about getting a 10HP, or a 15 and a smaller one. Thinking I'll get 2-stroke instead of 4 because of the weight issue. What are your thoughts about electric starting for outboards? 2-stroke vs 4-stroke? Brands that are easy to find parts for and mechanics to work on them around the world?

BBQ Grills:
I bought a Magna propane grille ~14" in diameter that won't stay lit in any kind of a breeze. I'm going to buy something else, but am kind of gun shy about spending $3-400 on one that I don't know anything about. Again, would like to know what you've tried and found works well, and what you've found that you'd recommend I NOT get.

Thanks in advance for your advice.
Kent
KRISTY
SM 243


cockpit roof removal

deborah <woodsdeborah_56@...>
 

Hi everyone

Thanks very much for all your help .... this forum has helped so much as we have been refurbishing our Maramu. Another question that I would like to pose is has anyone removed the roof of the cockpit in a maramu... perhaps Howard(SVJazz) might be able to help? When the main bolts are removed are they coming from captive nuts or is it necessary to get to the nuts from the inside?
Thanks again for all the advice

Happy Sailing!

Deb
SVOrion1