Date   

Re: [Amel] Re: Shore Power Cables

Richard Piller <richard03801@...>
 

Kent, we did away with the "Amel plug in solution") we installed an 1800 Watt
inverter working off the 24 volt batteries and ran a wire from the inverter to
the 110 volt box. We took out the 110 volt power supply coil that by the way is
always hot. Changed the battery charger to a 90 to 260 volt, 80 amp 50/60 cycle
charger. Kept the same input wire. This modification allows us to plug in
anyplace in the world without worry. We just need the correct plug ends for all
those different counties/harbors. It made life much easier traveling the
world. We can plug in 110 stuff when we need it without having to go into the
engine room and we can use 220 for some things like our coffee maker, toaster
and vac. And yes the washer needs to have gen set running.
good luck.
Richard on SM 209 it's for sale.





________________________________
From: Kent Robertson <karkauai@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Wed, November 10, 2010 2:54:16 PM
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: Shore Power Cables


Oh, forgot to address your ? about the 110 circuit. It was added by Amel at the
original owner's request and goes through a110-220 transformer before going to
the chargers. I have to physically unplug a connection from the 220 power
supply and plug it into the 110 power supply at the forward bulkhead in the
engine room to use the 30A 110V shore power.
Kent
SM243
KRISTY

--- On Wed, 11/10/10, sv Sangaris <sangaris@...> wrote:

From: sv Sangaris <sangaris@...>
Subject: [Amel] Re: Shore Power Cables
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Wednesday, November 10, 2010, 12:34 PM



Hey Kent,
Sailing south you won't need the heaters - problem solved :-)

I'd guess the 110v feed is an add-on by the former US owner of Kristy, not
original Amel, correct? What wattage are you drawing on your heaters - many are
in the 1800w range. Sounds like you've got more than one - two would present
3600w which at 120v gives you the 30A limit of your cable - no wonder it's hot!

If you need the heaters until you go south, can you run a separate additional
110 line out to the dock for one of the heaters? ... or get a 220v heater?


Seems you really needn't rip into the Amel wiring at all.

Cheers,
Craig

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Re: Shore Power Cables

karkauai
 

Oh, forgot to address your ? about the 110 circuit. It was added by Amel at the original owner's request and goes through a110-220 transformer before going to the chargers.  I have to physically unplug a connection from the 220 power supply and plug it into the 110 power supply at the forward bulkhead in the engine room to use the 30A 110V shore power.
Kent
SM243
KRISTY

--- On Wed, 11/10/10, sv Sangaris <sangaris@...> wrote:


From: sv Sangaris <sangaris@...>
Subject: [Amel] Re: Shore Power Cables
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Wednesday, November 10, 2010, 12:34 PM


 



Hey Kent,
Sailing south you won't need the heaters - problem solved :-)

I'd guess the 110v feed is an add-on by the former US owner of Kristy, not original Amel, correct? What wattage are you drawing on your heaters - many are in the 1800w range. Sounds like you've got more than one - two would present 3600w which at 120v gives you the 30A limit of your cable - no wonder it's hot!

If you need the heaters until you go south, can you run a separate additional 110 line out to the dock for one of the heaters? ... or get a 220v heater?

Seems you really needn't rip into the Amel wiring at all.

Cheers,
Craig








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Re: Shore Power Cables

karkauai
 

Hi, Craig.  There are 3 A/C-Heating units that my info says use 5.4 A each in heater mode, the water heater info says 3.2 A.  So if I'm running all of it at once, I'm up to ~20A, plus what the charger uses (3-7A)...still below the 30A circuit limit and well below the 50A limit.
 
My ? really is about the size of the wiring not meeting ABYC standards.  Is it your understanding that there would be any difference between using European type 220 vs US type 220?  The 50A 220v shore power cords that are available in the US are huge compared to the 220 line on the boat.  The 30A 110V cord is bigger than the 220 one, but still not what's recommended by ABYC.
 
I'm not really worried about the boat, but still don't understand the differences between US and European 220 enough to be completely confident when an electrician is telling me the wires are too small to be safe.
 
Hi to Katherine.
Kent

--- On Wed, 11/10/10, sv Sangaris <sangaris@...> wrote:


From: sv Sangaris <sangaris@...>
Subject: [Amel] Re: Shore Power Cables
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Wednesday, November 10, 2010, 12:34 PM


 



Hey Kent,
Sailing south you won't need the heaters - problem solved :-)

I'd guess the 110v feed is an add-on by the former US owner of Kristy, not original Amel, correct? What wattage are you drawing on your heaters - many are in the 1800w range. Sounds like you've got more than one - two would present 3600w which at 120v gives you the 30A limit of your cable - no wonder it's hot!

If you need the heaters until you go south, can you run a separate additional 110 line out to the dock for one of the heaters? ... or get a 220v heater?

Seems you really needn't rip into the Amel wiring at all.

Cheers,
Craig


Re: [Amel] Re: SM 24v Bilge Pump

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Ours is a different Jabsco, don't have the numbers to hand.
Regards
Danny
Ocean Pearl SM299

--- On Thu, 11/11/10, rossirossix4 <rossidesigngroup@...> wrote:


From: rossirossix4 <rossidesigngroup@...>
Subject: [Amel] Re: SM 24v Bilge Pump
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Thursday, 11, November, 2010, 2:21 AM


 




Hi Danny,

You are right, the Jabsco 50890 comes in 12v and 24v versions, can be run dry, 5gal/19L/minute and primes to 3 meters. Can be purchased for as little as $170-$225 US. Only restriction is 30 minutes continuous, but at twice the capacity of the original you would still be ahead running it part time in an emergency. Can be mounted horizontally or vertically
http://www.ittflowcontrol.com/files/50890_Waste_Pump_Data.pdf

My experience with the original PAMs or whatever they are called(my boat came with an original and a complete spare) is that the flopper valves stop sealing. The rebuild kit seemed to do poorly as well, I have fashioned my own out of a gasket material that uses 2 layers, a rubber seal and a more resilient layer of plastic? and it works better. I also think you can just drill different holes if you needed to replace the screws that hold them.

I have also witnessed Richard's macerator pump and it seems to work very well and is super compact.

Great to see you back home!

Bob
Brittany de la Mer
--- In amelyachtowners@..., Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...> wrote:

Hi Kent
Jabsco make an electric diapragm bilge pump that can do the job well, just get several spare joker valves, thats about all that goes wrong with it.
Regards from Danny and Yvonne on Ocean Pearl SM299 now in her home port of Mangonui New Zealand 

Danny and Yvonne
www.getjealous.com/danneve

--- On Tue, 9/11/10, Kent Robertson <karkauai@...> wrote:


From: Kent Robertson <karkauai@...>
Subject: RE: [Amel] SM 24v Bilge Pump
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Tuesday, 9, November, 2010, 11:13 AM


 





Thanks for that advice, John.  I've already had a fitting for the mizzen foil made and one for the forestay that are nicer than the originals.  This is a plastic housing that I'm going to try to repair by drilling out the old rusted screws and either replacing with bigger ones or filling with epoxy and redrilling.  If that fails I'll probably replace it with a macerator pump a la Richard Piller since I don't have time to get the new part from Sandvik before shoving off.  If that happens, I'll order the part and carry it as a spare or 2nd bilge pump when it finally gets here..
Hope you have a great holiday season.
Kent

--- On Mon, 11/8/10, john martin <symoondog@...> wrote:

From: john martin <symoondog@...>
Subject: RE: [Amel] SM 24v Bilge Pump
To: "Amel YAHOO GROUP" <amelyachtowners@...>
Date: Monday, November 8, 2010, 10:20 AM

Kent, As you travel around the world you will find that a machine shop is your best friend. They can fix anything and they can make anything. Take the broken piece to them, they will fix it in a few minutes. When We were in Brazil, I couldn't get my propane tanks filled because the fill fittings they had didn't match my tank. I borrowed  one of their fittings and took it along with my tank to a machine shop. He made me a beautiful brass fitting to connect the two together. $50.00. You will find it cheaper to have a machine shop make you an engine part rather then wait in a foreign port  and having to pay duty, customs, etc.   
In Cuba they can't buy parts for their 1000's of old 50's model cars and trucks, but they all look and drive like new, thanks to the machine shops.  John  "Moon Dog"  SM248

To: amelyachtowners@...
From: karkauai@...
Date: Sat, 6 Nov 2010 17:43:38 +0000
Subject: [Amel] SM 24v Bilge Pump

 

Hi again, all,
I just got back on Kristy to do some prep for the trip south and discovered that the bilge pump isn't working. The flapper valves on the intake and output sides of the pump were attached to the inside of the pump head by screws that have rusted completely off, making it impossible to replace with new ones. I think I will need to get a new head for the pump but there are no identifying marks on the pump except "PAM" printed on a sticker on the pump head. I believe this is a Sandvik pump, but cant find it searching the web. Can anyone tell me what brand and model pump it should be on SM243? Has anyone replaced this pump with another brand and if so how much of a problem was it to mount in the engine room? Has anyone had the same problem with this pump and do you have suggestions for how to repair it?

Thanks as always for your replies.
Kenthey had t
SM243
KRISTY

                         

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links












Re: [Amel] Brushes for Leroy-Somer furling and outhaul motors (24 v, 25 amp)

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

We got our brushes from a back street shop in St John, Antigua, got the bearings and seals there too. Seemed that they and the brushes were a common size because that certainly was not an " Amel supply shop".
Regards
Danny and Yvonne
SV Ocean Pearl  
SM299

--- On Thu, 11/11/10, Thomas <thomas.kleman@...> wrote:


From: Thomas <thomas.kleman@...>
Subject: [Amel] Brushes for Leroy-Somer furling and outhaul motors (24 v, 25 amp)
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Thursday, 11, November, 2010, 4:09 AM


 



I've heard that "any good alternator shop" advice on getting brushes for these motors.......tried that and the place everyone recommends/uses in Annapolis wasnt much help. Has anybody actually procured brushes for these motors and specifically where were you able to make this purchase ?

Bonus question- Are the cabinet latches still made/available by Amel ?

Thanks,

Tom and Kirstin
L'ORIENT
SM2K #422








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Re: Brushes for Leroy-Somer furling and outhaul motors (24 v, 25 amp)

karkauai
 

Hmmmm, Hi "other" Tom.  Do you have the button-type latches or the rectangular ones?
Kent
SM243

--- On Wed, 11/10/10, johnabo2003 <no_reply@...> wrote:


From: johnabo2003 <no_reply@...>
Subject: [Amel] Re: Brushes for Leroy-Somer furling and outhaul motors (24 v, 25 amp)
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Wednesday, November 10, 2010, 10:19 AM


 



Can't help on the brushes - but Amel just confirmed to me that they can still supply the cabinet latches.

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Thomas" <thomas.kleman@...> wrote:

I've heard that "any good alternator shop" advice on getting brushes for these motors.......tried that and the place everyone recommends/uses in Annapolis wasnt much help. Has anybody actually procured brushes for these motors and specifically where were you able to make this purchase ?

Bonus question- Are the cabinet latches still made/available by Amel ?

Thanks,

Tom and Kirstin
L'ORIENT
SM2K #422







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Brushes for Leroy-Somer furling and outhaul motors (24 v, 25 amp)

karkauai
 

Hi, Tom,
I wasn't able to find the brushes either.
I own SM243 and asked Amel about the cabinet latches. They said they were no longer available from any source.  I have the rectangular ones with squared-off edges and a small black button to open the latch.  Still haven't decided what I'm going to replace them with.
Good luck and let us know if you find a good replacement.
Kent

--- On Wed, 11/10/10, Thomas <thomas.kleman@...> wrote:


From: Thomas <thomas.kleman@...>
Subject: [Amel] Brushes for Leroy-Somer furling and outhaul motors (24 v, 25 amp)
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Wednesday, November 10, 2010, 10:09 AM


 



I've heard that "any good alternator shop" advice on getting brushes for these motors.......tried that and the place everyone recommends/uses in Annapolis wasnt much help. Has anybody actually procured brushes for these motors and specifically where were you able to make this purchase ?

Bonus question- Are the cabinet latches still made/available by Amel ?

Thanks,

Tom and Kirstin
L'ORIENT
SM2K #422








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Shore Power Cables

Craig Briggs
 

Hey Kent,
Sailing south you won't need the heaters - problem solved :-)

I'd guess the 110v feed is an add-on by the former US owner of Kristy, not original Amel, correct? What wattage are you drawing on your heaters - many are in the 1800w range. Sounds like you've got more than one - two would present 3600w which at 120v gives you the 30A limit of your cable - no wonder it's hot!

If you need the heaters until you go south, can you run a separate additional 110 line out to the dock for one of the heaters? ... or get a 220v heater?

Seems you really needn't rip into the Amel wiring at all.

Cheers,
Craig


Re: Brushes for Leroy-Somer furling and outhaul motors (24 v, 25 amp)

johnabo2003 <no_reply@...>
 

Can't help on the brushes - but Amel just confirmed to me that they can still supply the cabinet latches.

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Thomas" <thomas.kleman@...> wrote:

I've heard that "any good alternator shop" advice on getting brushes for these motors.......tried that and the place everyone recommends/uses in Annapolis wasnt much help. Has anybody actually procured brushes for these motors and specifically where were you able to make this purchase ?

Bonus question- Are the cabinet latches still made/available by Amel ?

Thanks,

Tom and Kirstin
L'ORIENT
SM2K #422


Brushes for Leroy-Somer furling and outhaul motors (24 v, 25 amp)

Thomas <thomas.kleman@...>
 

I've heard that "any good alternator shop" advice on getting brushes for these motors.......tried that and the place everyone recommends/uses in Annapolis wasnt much help. Has anybody actually procured brushes for these motors and specifically where were you able to make this purchase ?

Bonus question- Are the cabinet latches still made/available by Amel ?

Thanks,

Tom and Kirstin
L'ORIENT
SM2K #422


Re: Freshwater pressure pump, SM319

johnabo2003 <no_reply@...>
 

I have just serviced my AMFA fresh water pump and am now ready to install. Does anybody know if the pump is self priming?

John
SM 391

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "John and Anne on Bali Hai" <annejohn@...> wrote:

My pump, which is an AMFA 66I4555, Prot.IP44 has been getting
noisier in recent years. I had spares for the impellor, two brass
bits, one like a turbine and a matching face plate plus new ceramic
water seals. The latter turned out to be the wrong size but in fact
it was the impellor that was worn.
To replace, get the parts from Amel by Airmail or normal post in EU.
Turn off the power to the hot water heater and also the pump contact
breaker and run off the water at a tap. Tie a piece of line round the
big plastic vent pipe above the pump and leave the end hanging down.
Undo the connectors to the pump with a spanner and tie the left hand
one up high to stop water pouring back out of the hot tank
The pump is held to the floor of the engine room by four screws. If
they are hard to turn hit the top of the screwdiver with a hammer to
free them. Do not attempt to undo the four nuts on the vibration
mounting as they are on threaded rods forming part of the rubber
mounting. Lie the pump on its side and remove the cover to the wiring
to the pump pressure switch. Take a digital pic of the connections in
case you might forget which goes where before removing the three
wires so that you can get the pump on deck. You will also have to
release the grounding wire.
The next step is to undo three nuts holding the pump housing to the
motor and then remove the housing whilst the motor shaft is pointing
upwards. The housing holds one of the bits to be replaced, it is held
in place by two machine screws.Fit the new part (I had to file one of
the holes in the new part to get the second screw in place).
Carefully remove the circlip holding the impellor with a small
screwdriver and remove the old impellor taking care not to lose the
key. If you are replacing the seal as well, remove the second circlip
as well to remove the seal.In the event the new seal that I had was
the wrong size so I reused the old one with no problems.
Replace the circlip holding the seal by pushing it down the shaft
using all three of your hands so that it goes over the groove for the
top circlip crookedly to get it down the shaft to the second groove
against the spring on the seal which wants to send the circlip into
orbit.
Fit the new impellor with the raised flange facing OUTWARDS making
sure that the key is held properly in place using some needlenose
pliers so that the impellor slides on easily and replace the
circlip.
Reassemble and away you go...I hope.

Best wishes, Anne and John SM319


Re: SM 24v Bilge Pump

rossirossix4
 

Hi Danny,

You are right, the Jabsco 50890 comes in 12v and 24v versions, can be run dry, 5gal/19L/minute and primes to 3 meters. Can be purchased for as little as $170-$225 US. Only restriction is 30 minutes continuous, but at twice the capacity of the original you would still be ahead running it part time in an emergency. Can be mounted horizontally or vertically
http://www.ittflowcontrol.com/files/50890_Waste_Pump_Data.pdf

My experience with the original PAMs or whatever they are called(my boat came with an original and a complete spare) is that the flopper valves stop sealing. The rebuild kit seemed to do poorly as well, I have fashioned my own out of a gasket material that uses 2 layers, a rubber seal and a more resilient layer of plastic? and it works better. I also think you can just drill different holes if you needed to replace the screws that hold them.

I have also witnessed Richard's macerator pump and it seems to work very well and is super compact.

Great to see you back home!

Bob
Brittany de la Mer

--- In amelyachtowners@..., Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...> wrote:

Hi Kent
Jabsco make an electric diapragm bilge pump that can do the job well, just get several spare joker valves, thats about all that goes wrong with it.
Regards from Danny and Yvonne on Ocean Pearl SM299 now in her home port of Mangonui New Zealand 

Danny and Yvonne
www.getjealous.com/danneve

--- On Tue, 9/11/10, Kent Robertson <karkauai@...> wrote:


From: Kent Robertson <karkauai@...>
Subject: RE: [Amel] SM 24v Bilge Pump
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Tuesday, 9, November, 2010, 11:13 AM


 





Thanks for that advice, John.  I've already had a fitting for the mizzen foil made and one for the forestay that are nicer than the originals.  This is a plastic housing that I'm going to try to repair by drilling out the old rusted screws and either replacing with bigger ones or filling with epoxy and redrilling.  If that fails I'll probably replace it with a macerator pump a la Richard Piller since I don't have time to get the new part from Sandvik before shoving off.  If that happens, I'll order the part and carry it as a spare or 2nd bilge pump when it finally gets here..
Hope you have a great holiday season.
Kent

--- On Mon, 11/8/10, john martin <symoondog@...> wrote:

From: john martin <symoondog@...>
Subject: RE: [Amel] SM 24v Bilge Pump
To: "Amel YAHOO GROUP" <amelyachtowners@...>
Date: Monday, November 8, 2010, 10:20 AM

Kent, As you travel around the world you will find that a machine shop is your best friend. They can fix anything and they can make anything. Take the broken piece to them, they will fix it in a few minutes. When We were in Brazil, I couldn't get my propane tanks filled because the fill fittings they had didn't match my tank. I borrowed  one of their fittings and took it along with my tank to a machine shop. He made me a beautiful brass fitting to connect the two together. $50.00. You will find it cheaper to have a machine shop make you an engine part rather then wait in a foreign port  and having to pay duty, customs, etc.   
In Cuba they can't buy parts for their 1000's of old 50's model cars and trucks, but they all look and drive like new, thanks to the machine shops.  John  "Moon Dog"  SM248

To: amelyachtowners@...
From: karkauai@...
Date: Sat, 6 Nov 2010 17:43:38 +0000
Subject: [Amel] SM 24v Bilge Pump

 

Hi again, all,
I just got back on Kristy to do some prep for the trip south and discovered that the bilge pump isn't working. The flapper valves on the intake and output sides of the pump were attached to the inside of the pump head by screws that have rusted completely off, making it impossible to replace with new ones. I think I will need to get a new head for the pump but there are no identifying marks on the pump except "PAM" printed on a sticker on the pump head. I believe this is a Sandvik pump, but cant find it searching the web. Can anyone tell me what brand and model pump it should be on SM243? Has anyone replaced this pump with another brand and if so how much of a problem was it to mount in the engine room? Has anyone had the same problem with this pump and do you have suggestions for how to repair it?

Thanks as always for your replies.
Kenthey had t
SM243
KRISTY

                         

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Wintering Turkey / Greece

IYS <iys@...>
 


Shore Power Cables

karkauai
 

I have recently had an electrical survey done on KRISTY (SM243). There were two issues that the ABYC electrician found that concerned him. First and most important to him is the size of both the 220v 50A and the 110v 30A the shore line cables. He says that the wires are warm to touch, and particularly the 110A cable when the cabin heaters and a few cabin lites are on. He understands the difference between US and European 220, and says it's more important when you are using US 220 since it's really two 110 lines instead of one 220 line. I'm sure that Amel has researched this thoroughly, and I have never heard of an Amel catching fire due to shore power connections, so I'm inclined to trust the boat as wire

He is also concerned about the number of wires connected together at a number of places on the boat and feels they should be on busses with no more than 2-3 wires connected to each post.

I wonder if insurance companies based in the US require insured vessels to follow ABYC standards to be covered. I wonder what you all have to say about these recommendations? If I'm going to follow them it's going to cost a lot and needs to be started right away to be finished in time for my passage south.

Thanks for your thoughts.
Kent
SM243
KRISTY


Re: [Amel] SM 24v Bilge Pump

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Kent
Jabsco make an electric diapragm bilge pump that can do the job well, just get several spare joker valves, thats about all that goes wrong with it.
Regards from Danny and Yvonne on Ocean Pearl SM299 now in her home port of Mangonui New Zealand 

Danny and Yvonne
www.getjealous.com/danneve

--- On Tue, 9/11/10, Kent Robertson <karkauai@...> wrote:


From: Kent Robertson <karkauai@...>
Subject: RE: [Amel] SM 24v Bilge Pump
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Tuesday, 9, November, 2010, 11:13 AM


 





Thanks for that advice, John.  I've already had a fitting for the mizzen foil made and one for the forestay that are nicer than the originals.  This is a plastic housing that I'm going to try to repair by drilling out the old rusted screws and either replacing with bigger ones or filling with epoxy and redrilling.  If that fails I'll probably replace it with a macerator pump a la Richard Piller since I don't have time to get the new part from Sandvik before shoving off.  If that happens, I'll order the part and carry it as a spare or 2nd bilge pump when it finally gets here..
Hope you have a great holiday season.
Kent

--- On Mon, 11/8/10, john martin <symoondog@...> wrote:

From: john martin <symoondog@...>
Subject: RE: [Amel] SM 24v Bilge Pump
To: "Amel YAHOO GROUP" <amelyachtowners@...>
Date: Monday, November 8, 2010, 10:20 AM

Kent, As you travel around the world you will find that a machine shop is your best friend. They can fix anything and they can make anything. Take the broken piece to them, they will fix it in a few minutes. When We were in Brazil, I couldn't get my propane tanks filled because the fill fittings they had didn't match my tank. I borrowed  one of their fittings and took it along with my tank to a machine shop. He made me a beautiful brass fitting to connect the two together. $50.00. You will find it cheaper to have a machine shop make you an engine part rather then wait in a foreign port  and having to pay duty, customs, etc.   
In Cuba they can't buy parts for their 1000's of old 50's model cars and trucks, but they all look and drive like new, thanks to the machine shops.  John  "Moon Dog"  SM248

To: amelyachtowners@...
From: karkauai@...
Date: Sat, 6 Nov 2010 17:43:38 +0000
Subject: [Amel] SM 24v Bilge Pump

 

Hi again, all,
I just got back on Kristy to do some prep for the trip south and discovered that the bilge pump isn't working. The flapper valves on the intake and output sides of the pump were attached to the inside of the pump head by screws that have rusted completely off, making it impossible to replace with new ones. I think I will need to get a new head for the pump but there are no identifying marks on the pump except "PAM" printed on a sticker on the pump head. I believe this is a Sandvik pump, but cant find it searching the web. Can anyone tell me what brand and model pump it should be on SM243? Has anyone replaced this pump with another brand and if so how much of a problem was it to mount in the engine room? Has anyone had the same problem with this pump and do you have suggestions for how to repair it?

Thanks as always for your replies.
Kenthey had t
SM243
KRISTY

                         



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] SM 24v Bilge Pump

karkauai
 

Thanks for that advice, John.  I've already had a fitting for the mizzen foil made and one for the forestay that are nicer than the originals.  This is a plastic housing that I'm going to try to repair by drilling out the old rusted screws and either replacing with bigger ones or filling with epoxy and redrilling.  If that fails I'll probably replace it with a macerator pump a la Richard Piller since I don't have time to get the new part from Sandvik before shoving off.  If that happens, I'll order the part and carry it as a spare or 2nd bilge pump when it finally gets here.
Hope you have a great holiday season.
Kent

--- On Mon, 11/8/10, john martin <symoondog@...> wrote:


From: john martin <symoondog@...>
Subject: RE: [Amel] SM 24v Bilge Pump
To: "Amel YAHOO GROUP" <amelyachtowners@...>
Date: Monday, November 8, 2010, 10:20 AM



Kent, As you travel around the world you will find that a machine shop is your best friend. They can fix anything and they can make anything. Take the broken piece to them, they will fix it in a few minutes. When We were in Brazil, I couldn't get my propane tanks filled because the fill fittings they had didn't match my tank. I borrowed  one of their fittings and took it along with my tank to a machine shop. He made me a beautiful brass fitting to connect the two together. $50.00. You will find it cheaper to have a machine shop make you an engine part rather then wait in a foreign port  and having to pay duty, customs, etc.   
In Cuba they can't buy parts for their 1000's of old 50's model cars and trucks, but they all look and drive like new, thanks to the machine shops.  John  "Moon Dog"  SM248


To: amelyachtowners@...
From: karkauai@...
Date: Sat, 6 Nov 2010 17:43:38 +0000
Subject: [Amel] SM 24v Bilge Pump


 



Hi again, all,
I just got back on Kristy to do some prep for the trip south and discovered that the bilge pump isn't working. The flapper valves on the intake and output sides of the pump were attached to the inside of the pump head by screws that have rusted completely off, making it impossible to replace with new ones. I think I will need to get a new head for the pump but there are no identifying marks on the pump except "PAM" printed on a sticker on the pump head. I believe this is a Sandvik pump, but cant find it searching the web. Can anyone tell me what brand and model pump it should be on SM243? Has anyone replaced this pump with another brand and if so how much of a problem was it to mount in the engine room? Has anyone had the same problem with this pump and do you have suggestions for how to repair it?

Thanks as always for your replies.
Kenthey had t
SM243
KRISTY



                         

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Re: [Amel] SM 24v Bilge Pump

john martin <symoondog@...>
 

Kent, As you travel around the world you will find that a machine shop is your best friend. They can fix anything and they can make anything. Take the broken piece to them, they will fix it in a few minutes. When We were in Brazil, I couldn't get my propane tanks filled because the fill fittings they had didn't match my tank. I borrowed one of their fittings and took it along with my tank to a machine shop. He made me a beautiful brass fitting to connect the two together. $50.00. You will find it cheaper to have a machine shop make you an engine part rather then wait in a foreign port and having to pay duty, customs, etc.
In Cuba they can't buy parts for their 1000's of old 50's model cars and trucks, but they all look and drive like new, thanks to the machine shops. John "Moon Dog" SM248


To: amelyachtowners@...
From: karkauai@...
Date: Sat, 6 Nov 2010 17:43:38 +0000
Subject: [Amel] SM 24v Bilge Pump






Hi again, all,
I just got back on Kristy to do some prep for the trip south and discovered that the bilge pump isn't working. The flapper valves on the intake and output sides of the pump were attached to the inside of the pump head by screws that have rusted completely off, making it impossible to replace with new ones. I think I will need to get a new head for the pump but there are no identifying marks on the pump except "PAM" printed on a sticker on the pump head. I believe this is a Sandvik pump, but cant find it searching the web. Can anyone tell me what brand and model pump it should be on SM243? Has anyone replaced this pump with another brand and if so how much of a problem was it to mount in the engine room? Has anyone had the same problem with this pump and do you have suggestions for how to repair it?

Thanks as always for your replies.
Kenthey had t
SM243
KRISTY





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Re: [Amel] SM Water Heater and Bilge pump

Patrick McAneny
 

Kent I installed the Nautic Quick 40 liter 230v a few months ago.Seems like
a great unit,easily fit the area and is a good value when compared to other
heaters.I think I bought mine from Capt.Ahoy.com and had it a couple days.
Pat


Re: [Amel] SM 24v Bilge Pump

Richard Piller <richard03801@...>
 

Mike thanks for the note. I think at based on the 12 GPM of the new pump or 60
times that it makes for a better bilge pump. My original fail after 11 year not
a bad run. But we were not able to find replacement parts here in the States.
We found what looked like a good replacement in Vetus however they too seem to
have issues with the diaphragm pumps as well.

Richard on SM 209 For Sale





________________________________
From: Chris Smither <yachtakwaaba@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Sun, November 7, 2010 7:21:41 PM
Subject: Re: [Amel] SM 24v Bilge Pump


Richard,
If it is any help, attached is the exploded diagram of the PAM pump with the
manufacturers details. Mine has been on my Santorin for 20 years, and is getting
close to it's "sell by" date.
As an aside, I have found that truck tyre inner tubes make perfect diaphragm's
if you have a problem miles from anywhere.

Mike
Santorin, Akwaaba 1990

--- On Sun, 11/7/10, Richard Piller <richard03801@...> wrote:

From: Richard Piller <richard03801@...>
Subject: Re: [Amel] SM 24v Bilge Pump
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Sunday, November 7, 2010, 4:05 PM



Kent, after our first pump failed we found a Vetus pump to replace other

original diaphragm pump. After two more failures it seems there are some

"issues" with that pump. We in desperation installed a 24 volt macerator pump.

it has a 1.5" intake and one inch out put. So we installed a reducer on the

line going overboard. The macerator pump runs at well over 8 gallons per min.

by far faster and using less power then the previous pump (s). Second I can

hear it start up and run it may be not as Amel but I know when the bilge pump in


on and I kinda like that. It's worked well and draws without issue. For us it's

a very big improvement.

We spent a lot of money and time before we got to this point...

Good luck

Richard on SM 209 in Annapolis FOR SALE

________________________________

From: Kent Robertson <karkauai@...>

To: amelyachtowners@...

Sent: Sat, November 6, 2010 1:43:38 PM

Subject: [Amel] SM 24v Bilge Pump

Hi again, all,

I just got back on Kristy to do some prep for the trip south and discovered that


the bilge pump isn't working. The flapper valves on the intake and output sides


of the pump were attached to the inside of the pump head by screws that have

rusted completely off, making it impossible to replace with new ones. I think I


will need to get a new head for the pump but there are no identifying marks on

the pump except "PAM" printed on a sticker on the pump head. I believe this is

a Sandvik pump, but cant find it searching the web. Can anyone tell me what

brand and model pump it should be on SM243? Has anyone replaced this pump with

another brand and if so how much of a problem was it to mount in the engine

room? Has anyone had the same problem with this pump and do you have

suggestions for how to repair it?

Thanks as always for your replies.

Kent

SM243

KRISTY

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Re: [Amel] SM 24v Bilge Pump

karkauai
 

Thank you, gentlemen.  I just got your replies after I posted again with ?'s about the water heater.  Richard, I'm amazed that the macerator pump will self prime the 5 ft or so from the bottom of the intake to the pump.  How long have you been using that one?  Thanks for the info, Barry.  Here's the link to the Scandvik website on this pump http://www.scandvik.com/index.cfm/method/Shopping_Products/CatId/1/ID/793.htm .
It looks like they're in Ft. Lauderdale, FL.  Chris, I don't think you can attach files to posts on this site, so I didn't get your exploded view of the pump.  Can you send it directly to me at karkauai at yahoo dot com or post it in files or photos sections?  Thanks.
Again, thanks and happy holidays.
Kent
SM243
KRISTY